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BOLIVIA 


THE  CENTRAL  HIGHWAY  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA,  A LAND  OF 
RICH  RESOURCES  AND  VARIED  INTEREST 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/boliviacentralhiOOwrig 


‘0.'- 


■ /•.//:?'!  '/XXi  MCU^i  ’ 


HIS  EXCELLENCY 


SENOR  DON  ISMAEL  MONTES 


PRESIDENT  OF  BOLIVIA 


MARIE  ROBINSON  WRIGHT 


BOLIVIA 


THE  CENTRAL  HIGHWAY  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA,  A LAND  OF 
RICH  RESOURCES  AND  VARIED  INTEREST 


PHILADELPHIA;  PRINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY 

GEORGE  BARRIE  & SONS 

LONDON:  C.  D.  CAZENOVE  & SON,  26  HENRIETTA  STREET,  COVENT  GARDEN,  W.  C. 

PARIS:  19  Rue  Scribe 


COPYRIGHT,  igo7,  BY  GEORGE  BARRIE  & SONS 


TO  HIS  EXCELLENCY 


$)rfuir  HoH  Esmafl  fHoutcs 

PRESIDENT  OF  BOLIVIA 


WHOSE  NOBILITY  OF  CHARACTER  HAS  MADE  HIM  BELOVED  BY  HIS  PEOPLE  AND  ESTEEMED 

AND  HONORED  BY  ALL 

(Eri)igi  13ooix  is  ixcsprrtfuHij  DctiiratrU 


I’l 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

DEDICATION 5 

LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 9 

INTRODUCTION  13 


CHAPTER  1 

PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD— SPANISH  INVASION  AND 


CONQUEST 17 

CHAPTER  II 

ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  VICEROYALTY  35 

CHAPTER  III 

HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 51 

CHAPTER  IV 

PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 71 

CHAPTER  V 

THE  NATIONAL  CONSTITUTION 91 


CHAPTER  VI 

THE  PRESIDENT’S  CABINET— DEPENDENCIES  OF  THE 

STATE  DEPARTMENT 103 

CHAPTER  VII 

THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET— SOCIAL  LIFE-CHAR- 


ITIES   119 

CHAPTER  Vlll 

LA  PAZ— THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT  • ■ 135 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  IX 

INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS— LITERATURE,  ORATORY, 


ART,  AND  MUSIC 153 

CHAPTER  X 

SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  BOLIVIA 175 


CHAPTER  XI 

EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS— SYSTEMS  OF  INSTRUC- 
TION   189 

CHAPTER  XII 

A NEW  ERA  FOR  BOLIVIA— IMPORTANT  PUBLIC 

WORKS— RAILWAYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES  ...  203 

CHAPTER  XIII 

A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK— INCIDENTS 

OF  TRAVEL  IN  BOLIVIA 221 

CHAPTER  XIV 

LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS— THE  SHRINE  OF 

COPACABANA 241 

CHAPTER  XV 

TIAHUANACO— COLOSSAL  REMAINS  OF  ANCIENT  CIV- 


ILIZATION   255 

CHAPTER  XVI 

THE  FERTILE  REGION  OF  THE  YUNGAS 267 

CHAPTER  XVII 

COCHABAMBA,  THE  GARDEN  CITY 279 

7 


8 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XVIII  PAGE 

BOLIVIA  A FIELD  FOR  LARGE  ENTERPRISES— NATU- 
RAL CONDITIONS— IMMIGRATION— CLIMATE  . . 291 


CHAPTER  XXIV  PAGE 

GOLD  MINING  IN  BOLIVIA— TUPIZA  AND  ITS  MINES— 

BISMUTH 377 


CHAPTER  XIX 

THE  OLD  MINT  OF  POTOSI— BOLIVIAN  COINAGE  AND 

BANKING  LAWS— COMMERCE 305 


CHAPTER  XXV 

SANTA  CRUZ,  THE  CENTRE  OF  A RICH  AGRICULTURAL 

DISTRICT 389 


CHAPTER  XX 

CELEBRATED  MINES  OF  BOLIVIA— THE  CERRO  DE 

POTOSI— HUANCHACA  SILVER  MINES 321 

CHAPTER  XXI 

POTOSI,  THE  FAMOUS  VILLA  IMPERIAL  OF  COLONIAL 
SPAIN— ONE  OF  BOLIVIA’S  MOST  PICTURESQUE 
CITIES 337 


CHAPTER  XXII 

RICH  SILVER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES  OF  WESTERN 


BOLIVIA— MINING  LAWS 351 

CHAPTER  XXIII 

ORURO  AND  ITS  PROSPEROUS  MINES  365 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

TARIJA— EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  CHACO 403 

CHAPTER  XXVII 

EL  BENI,  THE  BOLIVIAN  EL  DORADO  415 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

THE  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONIAS— THE  BOUNDARY 

LINE  WITH  BRAZIL— CHIEF  WATERWAYS  ....  427 

CHAPTER  XXIX 

THE  PRIMITIVE  INHABITANTS  OF  BOLIVIA— THEIR 
CUSTOMS  AND  RELIGION— THE  CHOLO— PICTU- 
RESQUE TYPES 439 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 


HIS  EXCELLENCY  SENOR  DON  ISMAEL  MONTES, 

PRESIDENT  OF  BOLIVIA Fronts. 

ARMS  OF  BOLIVIA Title  page 

GENERAL  SIMON  BOLIVAR 17 

GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  LA  PAZ  19 

THE  NEW  GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  SUCRE  2l 

THE  ALAMEDA, THE  FAVORITE  PROMENADE  OF  LA  PAZ  25 

FOUNTAIN  IN  MURILLO  PLAZA,  LA  PAZ 26 

PRESIDENT’S  COACH 27 

MONUMENT  TO  GENERAL  BALLIVIAN,  LA  PAZ  ...  28 

PICTURESQUE  SCENE  NEAR  LA  PAZ 29 

ALAMEDA  GATEWAY,  LA  PAZ 30 

ILLIMANI 32 

DOORWAY  AND  PATIO,  COLONIAL  PERIOD,  LA  PAZ  . 34 

DOORWAY  OF  SAN  LORENZO  CHURCH,  POTOSI  . . 35 

FACADE  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO  CHURCH,  LA  PAZ  ...  37 

JESUIT  CONVENT  TOWER  IN  POTOSI 38 

COLONIAL  SUN-DIAL,  SUCRE 39 

CHURCH  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO,  LA  PAZ 41 

TYPICAL  DOORWAY,  COLONIAL  PERIOD,  LA  PAZ  ■ ■ 43 

CONVENT  OF  SANTA  TERESA,  COCHABAMBA  ....  44 

PORTAL  OF  HOUSE  IN  POTOSI 45 

PANTHEON  OF  SAN  BERNARDO,  POTOSI 47 

ENTRANCE  TO  CATHEDRAL,  SUCRE 48 

THE  BATTALION  CAMPERO  ON  PARADE  IN  SUCRE  . 50 

DON  ANTONIO  SUCRE 51 

CROWDS  ON  THE  WAY  TO  A PATRIOTIC  CELEBRATION  53 

GENERAL  PEDRO  DOMINGO  MURILLO 33 

REVIEWING  TROOPS  IN  THE  AVENUE  ARCE,  LA  PAZ  58 
MONUMENT  TO  GENERAL  SUCRE  IN  LA  PAZ  ....  61 

FACSIMILE  OF  THE  ORIGINAL  TREATY  OF  AYACU- 

CHO 63,  64,  63 

GROUP  OF  CAVALRY  ON  THE  ALTOS  OF  LA  PAZ  . . 68 

CAVALRY  ON  PARADE  IN  SUCRE 70 


PAGE 


GENERAL  JOSE  MANUEL  PANDO 71 

GENERAL  ANDRES  SANTA  CRUZ  73 

GENERAL  JOSE  BALLIVIAN 74 

GENERAL  MANUEL  ISIDORO  BELZU  75 

DR.  JOSE  MARIA  LINARES 76 

COLONEL  ADOLFO  BALLIVIAN 77 

SENOR  DON  TOMAS  FRIAS 78 

GENERAL  NARCISO  CAMPERO 79 

SENOR  DON  GREGORIO  PACHECO 81 

SENOR  DON  ANICETO  ARCE 83 

SENOR  DON  MARIANO  BAPTISTA 84 

GENERAL  CLODOMIRO  MONTES 88 

THE  NATIONAL  CONGRESS  OF  1905 90 

SENOR  DON  ELIODORO  VILLAZON 91 

HIS  GRACE  ARCHBISHOP  PIFFERI  OF  LA  PLATA,  SUCRE  92 

LEGISLATIVE  PALACE,  SUCRE 94 

SENOR  DR.  VALENTIN  ABECIA 96 

CALLE  DE  RECREO,  LA  PAZ 97 

SENOR  DR.  MIGUEL  DE  LOS  SANTOS  TABORGA  . . 98 

STREET  SCENE,  LA  PAZ 100 

THE  FOREIGN  MINISTER  AND  DIPLOMATIC  CORPS  . 102 

SENOR  DON  Cl. AUDIO  PINILLA 103 

RECEPTION  ROOM  OF  THE  FOREIGN  OFFICE,  LA  PAZ  105 

SENOR  DON  ANIBAL  CAPRILES 106 

SENOR  DON  JUAN  M.  SARACHO 107 

OFFICES  OF  JUSTICE  AND  INSTRUCTION  109 

SENOR  DON  DANIEL  DEL  CASTILLO 1 10 

THE  QUARTEL,  LA  PAZ ill 

SENOR  DR.  JOSE  QUINTEROS 112 

SENOR  DON  MANUEL  VICENTE  BALLIVIAN 114 

PLAZA  MURILLO,  LA  PAZ 116 

MUNICIPAL  THEATRE,  LA  PAZ  . 118 

A BEAUTIFUL  BOLIVIAN  . ...  119 

SENORA  DONA  BETHSABE  DE  MONTES  ...  121 


lO 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


SENORA  DONA  HORTENSIA  DE  PINILLA 

CARNIVAL  DAYS  IN  COCHABAMBA 

SENORA  DONA  ISABEL  DE  CAPRILES 

SENORA  DONA  V.  DEL  CASTILLO 

AUTOMOBILE  PARTY  IN  COCHABAMBA 

SENORA  DE  MANUEL  VICENTE  BALLIVIAN 

PREPARING  FOR  A TOURNAMENT,  LA  PAZ 

SENORA  DE  JOSE  MANUEL  PANDO  

A CHALET  IN  THE  ALAMEDA,  LA  PAZ 

SENORA  DE  AGUIRRE  ACHA 

RESIDENCE  OF  SENOR  ALEXANDER,  LA  PAZ  .... 

A BOLIVIAN  DEBUTANTE 

A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  LA  PAZ 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  LA  PAZ 

POST  OFFICE,  LA  PAZ 

STREET  SCENE, LA  PAZ  

HOSPITAL  AND  MUSEUM,  LA  PAZ 

PRINCIPAL  ALTAR  IN  THE  JESUIT  TEMPLE,  LA  PAZ  . . 

AVENIDA  ARCE,  LA  PAZ 

CONVENT  OF  THE  CONCEPTION,  LA  PAZ 

PLAZA  AND  GRAN  HOTEL  GUIBERT,  LA  PAZ 

CALLE  AMERICA,  LA  PAZ 

PUBLIC  LIBRARY,  LA  PAZ 

A BUSINESS  STREET  IN  LA  PAZ 

CHURCH  OF  LA  MERCED,  LA  PAZ 

CALLE  DEL  COMERCIO,  LA  PAZ 

SUBURBS  OF  LA  PAZ,  ILLIMANI  IN  THE  DISTANCE  . 

INSTITUTE  OF  HYGIENE,  LA  PAZ 

CHURCH  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO,  LA  PAZ 

SENOR  DON  JOSE  ROSENDO  GUTIERREZ 

SENOR  DR.  NICOLAS  ARMENTIA 

OLD  PAINTING  ON  COPPER,  CATHEDRAL  OF  SUCRE  . 

SENOR  DON  EVARISTO  VALLE 

SENOR  DON  NATANIEL  AGUIRRE 

OLD  PAINTING  IN  THE  MINT  OF  POTOSI 

SENOR  DR.  JOSE  MARIA  SANTIVANEZ 

GENERAL  DON  ELIODORO  CAMACHO 

AN  OLD  PAINTING  IN  THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  SUCRE  . . 

SENOR  DON  JUAN  CARILLO 

SENOR  DON  AVELINO  ARAMAYO 

PAINTING  IN  THE  MINT  OF  POTOSI 

SENOR  DP.  JULIO  RODRIGUEZ 

SENOR  DR.  ANDRES  MUNOZ 

INDIANS  OF  POTOSI.  A PAINTING  BY  VALDEZ  . . . 

SENORITA  ADELA  ZAMUDIO,  “ SOLEDAD  ” 

VIEW  OF  SUCRE  FROM  THE  SUBURBS 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  CHARCAS,  NOW  SUCRE 

COLONEL  DON  JULIO  LA  FAYE 

THE  PRINCIPALITY  OF  GLORIETA,  SUBURBS  OF  SUCRE 

THE  CATHEDRAL  TOWER,  SUCRE 

MUNICIPAL  PALACE,  SUCRE 

VIEW  OF  ONE  OF  SUCRE’S  BEAUTIFUL  PLAZAS  . . 


PAGE 


GROUP  IN  THE  ASYLUM  FOR  THE  AGED,  SUCRE  . . l8l 

GATEWAY  OF  THE  ALAMEDA,  SUCRE 182 

MARKET  SCENE  IN  THE  OUTSKIRTS  OF  SUCRE  ...  183 

THE  HACIENDA  GUEREO,  SUBURBS  OF  SUCRE  ...  184 

THE  MISSES  RODRIGUEZ,  SUCRE 186 

MILITARY  COLLEGE,  LA  PAZ 188 

ENTRANCE  TO  DON  BOSCO  COLLEGE,  LA  PAZ  ...  189 

SCHOOL  OF  MEDICINE,  LA  PAZ 191 

SENOR  DR.  IGNACIO  TERAN 194 

BOOKBINDING  IN  DON  BOSCO  COLLEGE,  LA  PAZ  . . 195 

PATIO  OF  PICHINCHA  COLLEGE,  POTOSI 196 

SENOR  DR.  RODOLFO  SORIA  GALVARRO 198 

PATIO  OF  JUNIN  COLLEGE,  SUCRE 2Co 

PUENTE  SUCRE 202 

PUENTE  SUCRE,  LOOKING  TO  THE  POTOSI  TERMINUS  203 
RAILWAY  STATION  OF  PULACAYO,  HUANCHACA  MINES  205 


CASCADE  ON  THE  PROPOSED  ROUTE  OF  THE  ARICA 


AND  LA  PAZ  RAILWAY 207 

RAILWAY  CUT  BETWEEN  GUAQUI  AND  LA  PAZ  ...  208 
SCENE  ON  THE  GUAQUI  AND  LA  PAZ  RAILWAY  ...  209 

DAM  AT  ACHACHALLA 211 

TRAIN  ARRIVING  IN  GUAQUI  FROM  LA  PAZ 212 

CARAVAN  ON  THE  ROAD  FROM  LA  PAZ  TO  ORURO  213 

MOTORING  IN  THE  SUBURBS  OF  LA  PAZ 215 

ROAD  LEADING  TO  MINES  NEAR  ORURO 217 

STONE  BRIDGES  BETWEEN  POTOSI  AND  CHALLAPATA  218 
LAKE  OF  SAN  PEDRO,  DEPARTMENT  OF  LA  PAZ  . . 220 

POSTILION  OF  THE  ANDES 221 

ANCIENT  SEPULCHRES  BETWEEN  LA  PAZ  AND  ORURO  223 

PILLARS  OF  SANDSTONE,  NEAR  PORCO 225 

RIVER  ROCHA,  NEAR  COCHABAMBA 227 

WEAVING  THE  PONCHO  ON  A PRIMITIVE  LOOM  . 228 

INDIANS  IN  FEAST  COSTUMES 229 

THE  DEVIL’S  BRIDGE  ACROSS  THE  PILCOMAYO  RIVER  230 
PUENTE  SAN  BARTOLOME  BETWEEN  POTOSI  AND 

YOCALLA 231 

A FREQUENT  MORNING  ENCOUNTER  ON  THE  JOURNEY  232 
THE  LLAMA,  THE  PROUDEST  OF  BURDEN  BEARERS  . 233 


COSTUMES  WORN  BY  THE  INDIANS  ON  THE  PILGRIM- 


AGE TO  THE  SHRINE  OF  COPACABANA 234 

A COUNTRY  ROAD  NEAR  LA  PAZ 235 

CHALLAPATA 236 

QUICHUA  INDIAN  GIRL  OF  POTOSI 238 

PROCESSION  OF  THE  VIRGIN  AT  COPACABANA  ...  240 

THE  VIRGIN  OF  COPACABANA 241 

SHRINE  OF  THE  VIRGIN  OF  COPACABANA 242 

LANDING  PLACE  AT  COPACABANA,  LAKE  TITICACA  . 243 

CROSSES  CARVED  OUT  OF  SOLID  ROCK 244 

PENINSULA  AND  CITY  OF  COPACABANA 243 

RUINS  OF  INCA  TEMPLE  ON  THE  ISLAND  OF  THE  SUN  246 
VIEW  OF  MOUNT  SORATA  FROM  LAKE  TITICACA  . 248 

ABOVE  THE  SNOW  LINE,  MOUNT  ILLIMANI 249 


.^r.E 

1 22 

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125 

125 

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128 

129 

130 

131 

132 

134 

135 

136 

137 

138 

139 

140 

141 

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138 

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165 

166 

168 

169 

I 70 

172 

174 

175 

176 

177 

178 

179 

180 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 


INCA  PALACE,  ISLAND  OF  THE  SUN 250 

INDIAN  PADDLING  HIS  “ BALSA”  ON  LAKE  TITICACA  • 252 
EXCAVATION,  SHOW'ING  CARVINGS,  TIAHUANACO  ■ ■ 254 

A VASE  FOUND  AT  TIAHUANACO 255 

MONOLITH  SHOWING  HIEROGLYPHICS 258 

RUINS  OF  THE  DOORWAY  OF  THE  TEMPLE  ....  259 

ARCHED  GATEWAYS  OF  TIAHUANACO 260 

PORTAL  OF  A CHURCH,  TIAHUANACO 261 

CYCLOPEAN  STONES  OF  TUNCA  PUNCO 261 

ANCIENT  DOORWAY,  CARVED  OUT  OF  SOLID  ROCK  . 262 
STONE  HEADS  EXCAVATED  AMONG  THE  RUINS  • . 263 

IDOL  OF  UNKNOWN  ANTIQUITY 264 

RUINS  OF  AN  UNFINISHED  STAIRWAY  264 

HARVESTING  COCA  IN  THE  YUNGAS 266 

STREET  SCENE  IN  THE  YUNGAS 267 

COROICO,  CAPITAL  OF  NORTH  YUNGAS 268 

PRINCIPAL  PLAZA  OF  COROICO,  NORTH  YUNGAS  269 

CHULUMANI,  CAPITAL  OF  SOUTH  YUNGAS 270 

INDIAN  COCA  GATHERERS  IN  THE  YUNGAS  ....  271 
A CALLAPO,  OR  RAFT,  ON  THE  RIVER  LOAYZA  ...  272 

BRIDGE  OVER  THE  RIVER  LOAYZA 273 

PALCA,  ON  THE  ROUTE  TO  THE  YUNGAS 273 

CUTTING  SUGAR  CANE  IN  THE  YUNGAS 274 

TOWN  OF  IRUPANA,  IN  THE  YUNGAS 275 

TYPICAL  INDIAN  OF  THE  YUNGAS 276 

THE  PLAZA,  COCHABAMBA 278 

THE  ALAMEDA,  COCHABAMBA 279 

LA  PUERTA  DE  COCHABAMBA 280 

THERMAL  SPRINGS  NEAR  COCHABAMBA 281 

CALLE  COMERCIO,  COCHABAMBA 282 

FEAST  DAY  OF  SAN  SEBASTIAN,  COCHABAMBA  ...  283 
PAVILION  IN  THE  ALAMEDA,  COCHABAMBA  ....  284 

CHURCH  OF  SAN  PEDRO,  COCHABAMBA 286 

LOVERS’  TREE  IN  CALA-CALA,  COCHABAMBA  ...  288 

CACHIMAYO  HACIENDA,  NEAR  SUCRE 290 

PICTURESQUE  SCENE  IN  THE  RUBBER  REGION  ...  291 


VINEYARDS  OF  PARANI,  DEPARTMENT  OF  LA  PAZ  ■ 293 
ENTRANCE  TO  CACHIMAYO  HACIENDA,  NEAR  SUCRE  294 
FERTILE  VALLEY  ON  THE  ROUTE  OF  THE  ARICA  AND 


LA  PAZ  RAILWAY 295 

CATTLE  FAIR  IN  SUCRE 296 

COACH  ROAD  TO  OBRAJES,  NEAR  LA  PAZ 297 

VALLEY  OF  SOPOCACHI,  NEAR  LA  PAZ 298 

SINKING  GROUND,  CERRO  DH  MILLUNI 299 

SHEEP  RANCH  ON  THE  BOLIVIAN  PLATEAU 300 

THE  MARKET  PLACE,  COCHABAMBA 301 

FRUIT  VENDOR  OF  COCHABAMBA 302 

PATIO  OF  THE  NATIONAL  MINT,  POTOSI 304 

WOODEN  MACHINERY  IN  THE  OLD  MINT  OF  POTOSI  . 305 

FOUNDRY  OF  THE  MINT,  POTOSI 306 

LA  PAZ  CUSTOM  HOUSE 307 

TUPIZA  CUSTOM  HOUSE  ON  THE  ARGENTINE  BORDER  308 


I I 

PAGE 


ARGANDONA  BANK,  SUCRE 309 

GERMAN-CHILEAN  BANK,  ORURO 310 

NATIONAL  BANK  OF  BOLIVIA,  SUCRE 311 

IMPORTING  HOUSE  OF  MORALES  AND  BERTRAM, 

SUCRE 312 

IMPORTING  HOUSE  OF  BEBIN  BROTHERS,  CHALLA- 

PATA 313 

STREET  OF  THE  BANKS,  SUCRE 314 

GUAQUI,  ON  LAKE  TITICACA 315 

PUERTO  SUAREZ,  A PORT  ON  THE  PARAGUAY  RIVER  316 

THE  NATIONAL  MINT,  POTOSI 318 

WOMEN  EXPERTS  SORTING  ORES,  HUANCHACA  SIL- 
VER MINES 320 

ENTRANCE  TO  PULACAYO  MINE,  HUANCHACA  ...  321 
PORCO,  SITE  OF  THE  OLDEST  SILVER  MINES  IN 

BOLIVIA 323 

SILVER  AND  TIN  MINES,  REAL  SOCAVON,  POTOSI  . . 324 
ESTABLISHMENT  OF  SOUX  AND  HERNANDEZ,  POTOSI  325 
ASSORTED  TIN  ORES 326 


BARS  OF  TIN,  MINES  OF  BEBIN  BROTHERS,  POTOSI  . 327 
CARTS  OF  SILVER  ORE  FROM  HUANCHACA  MINES  . 328 
LOADING  TIN  ON  CARTS,  MULES,  AND  LLAMAS,  SOUX 

AND  HERNANDEZ  SMELTING  FOUNDRY,  POTOSI  . 329 
VIEW  OF  HUANCHACA,  CENTRE  OF  RICH  SILVER 


MINES 330 

AQUEDUCT  OF  YURA 331 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  PULACAYO  MINES,  HUANCHACA  . 331 

LAKE  AND  DAM  IN  THE  CORDILLERA 333 

ARRIEROS  PHOTOGRAPHED  FOR  IDENTIFICATION, 

POTOSI 334 

PRINCIPAL  PLAZA  OF  POTOSI  DURING  A PROCESSION  336 

MONUMENT  OF  LIBERTY,  POTOSI  337 

THE  IMPERIAL  CITY  OF  POTOSI 338 

CITY  HALL,  POTOSI 339 

PICHINCHA  PLAZA,  POTOSI 339 

ONE  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS  OF  POTOSI  ...  340 
STREET  SCENE  SHOWING  CERRO  DE  POTOSI  ....  341 
OLD  COLONIAL  DOORWAY  OF  THE  MINT,  POTOSI  . 342 

CERRO  DE  POTOSI,  OVERLOOKING  THE  CITY  ....  343 
THERMAL  SPRINGS  OF  TARAPAYA,  NEAR  POTOSI  . . 344 
ARTIFICIAL  LAKE  OF  SAN  SEBASTIAN,  NEAR  POTOSI  . 345 

COMMERCIAL  HOUSE  OF  BEBIN  BROTHERS,  POTOSI  . 346 

BREAD  VENDOR,  POTOSI 346 

ARTIFICIAL  LAKE  ILLIMANI,  NEAR  POTOSI 347 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  POTOSI  348 

COROCORO,  CENTRE  OF  THE  GREATEST  COPPER 

MINES  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA 35° 

IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  COROCORO  COPPER  REGION  . 351 
COLQUECHACA,  CELEBRATED  FOR  ITS  MINES  . 353 

MINING  TOWN  OF  INQUISIVI 354 

CARRYING  FREIGHT  TO  THE  MINES  OF  QUIMSACRUZ  355 
FAMOUS  ROSICLER  SILVER  MINES,  COLQUECHACA  . 356 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


1 2 


IRON  MOUNTAIN  ON  THE  ROAD  FROM  LA  PAZ  TO 

THE  MINES 357 

MOUNT  KAKA-ACA 358 

TRANSPORTATION  OF  COPPER  FROM  THE  COROCORO 

MINES 359 

THREE  PRINCIPAL  MINING  ESTABLISHMENTS  OF 

COROCORO 361 

MINING  DISTRICT  OF  QUIMSACRUZ,  NEAR  ORURO  • 362 

CITY  OF  ORURO 364 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  ORURO 365 

MAIN  PLAZA,  ORURO 367 

SAN  JOSE,  ORURO 369 

MINERS’  HOLIDAY  AT  SAN  JOSE,  ORURO 370 

MINE  OF  SAN  JOSE,  ORURO 371 

SILVER  AND  TIN  SMELTING  WORKS,  POOPO  ....  373 

BERENGUELA  TIN  MINES 374 

GOLD  WASHING  AT  CHUQUIAGUILLO,  NEAR  LA  PAZ  . 376 
DISTANT  GLIMPSE  OF  TUPIZA,  THROUGH  A TUNNEL  . 377 
RICH  GOLD  MINING  REGION  OF  CHUQUIAGUILLO  . . 378 
ADMINISTRATION  HOUSE,  CHUQUIAGUILLO  MINES  . 379 
MOUNTAIN  OF  CHOROLQUE,  SITE  OF  THE  HIGHEST 

TIN  AND  BISMUTH  MINES  IN  THE  WORLD  ...  381 

QUECHISLA,  MINING  ESTABLISHMENT 382 

DREDGE  IN  CONSTRUCTION  AT  SAN  JUAN  DE  ORO 

MINES,  TUPIZA 383 

PICTURESQUE  VIEW  OF  TUPIZA 385 

PLAZA  OF  TUPIZA 386 

THE  INDIAN  MISSION  OF  SANTA  CRUZ 388 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ 389 

GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  SANTA  CRUZ 391 

CALLE  FLORIDA,  SANTA  CRUZ 392 

OLD  QUARTER  OF  SANTA  CRUZ 393 

PICTURESQUE  PLAZA  OF  SANTA  CRUZ 394 

CALLE  DEL  COMERCIO,  SANTA  CRUZ 395 

SANTA  CRUZ,  SHOWING  LAKE  IN  THE  VICINITY  . . 396 

CACIQUE  AND  HIS  FAMILY,  SANTA  CRUZ 397 

LAS  BARRERAS,  A HACIENDA  NEAR  SANTA  CRUZ  . . 399 

THE  CACTUS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ 400 

OPENING  THE  ROAD  FROM  PUERTO  PACHECO,  ON 

THE  PARAGUAY  RIVER 402 

GIANT  TREE  IN  TARIJA 403 

THE  NARROWS,  NEAR  TARIJA 405 

BOLIVIAN  COMMISSION  OF  LIMITS,  IN  THE  CHACO  . 407 

PALM  TREES  IN  THE  GRAN  CHACO 408 

SCENE  ON  THE  PILCOMAYO  RIVER 409 

CAMP  OF  CHOROTIS  IN  THE  BOLIVIAN  CHACO  ...  410 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  TARIJA 412 

STEAMBOAT  ON  THE  MAMORE  RIVER,  EL  BENI  ...  414 


PAGE 

THE  RUBBER  GATHERER  AT  WORK,  EL  BENI  ...  415 
MISSION  OF  COVENDO  ON  THE  BENI  RIVER  ....  416 
THE  ACRE  DELEGATION  LEAVING  TRINIDAD  ....  417 

CALLAPOS  ON  THE  BENI  RIVER 418 

CUTTING  A PATH  THROUGH  THE  FOREST 418 

A CAMP  IN  THE  RUBBER  FOREST,  EL  BENI 419 

CARRYING  PROVISIONS  TO  THE  RUBBER  CAMP  . . 420 

VIEW  NEAR  SUAPI  CENTRAL,  UPPER  BENI 421 

NAVIGATION  ON  THE  UPPER  BENI 422 

RUBBER  TREES,  EL  BENI 423 

GRAN  CRUZ  HACIENDA 424 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  EL  BENI 424 

RIVER  BOAT  ON  THE  MADRE  DE  DIOS,  TERRITORIO 

DE  COLONIAS 426 

A CHOZA,  HUT  OF  RUBBER  GATHERERS 427 

THE  KNAUDT  EXPEDITION  IN  CAMP 428 

A BATELON  ON  THE  MADRE  DE  DIOS 429 

RAPIDS  OF  THEOTONIO,  MADEIRA  RIVER 430 

VIEW  OF  THE  MADEIRA  RIVER 431 

FORDING  THE  RIVER  PIQUENDO 431 

CONFLUENCE  OF  THE  BENI  AND  MAMORE  RIVERS, 

VILLA  BELLA 432 

RIVER  PORT  OF  GUARAYOS 433 

SCENE  ON  THE  MAMORE  RIVER 433 

CAMP  OF  RUBBER  GATHERERS 434 

TRANSHIPPING  CARGO  AT  THE  RAPIDS  OF  THEO- 
TONIO, ON  THE  MADEIRA  RIVER 435 

GLIMPSE  OF  FOREST  AND  STREAM  IN  THE  RUBBER 

REGION 436 

DANCING  THE  KENA-KENA 438 

INDIAN  WATER  CARRIER  OF  LA  PAZ 439 

PICTURESQUE  TYPE  OF  THE  COCHABAMBA  INDIAN  . 440 

TEMBETAS,  INDIANS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ 440 

INDIANS  OF  POTOSI 441 

THE  STIRRUP-CUP 442 

QUICHUA  INDIAN 443 

A GENIAL  BEGGAR  OF  COCHABAMBA 443 

INDIANS  IN  FIESTA  AT  TRINIDAD,  THE  BENI  . 444 

CHOLA  OF  POTOSI,  IN  COSTUME  OF  FIESTA  ...  445 

CHOROTIS,  INDIANS  OF  THE  CHACO 445 

CHOLA  OF  THE  BOLIVIAN  PLATEAU 446 

THE  MODE  OF  CARRYING  THE  BABY 446 

A CHOLA  BELLE  OF  POTOSI 447 

AYMARA  INDIANS  OF  TITICACA  PLATEAU 447 

GUARAYO  INDIANS 448 

A BRIDAL  COUPLE 449 

ALL  SOULS’  DAY  IN  THE  CEMETERY 45° 

MAP  OF  BOLIVIA Facing  450 


INTRODUCTION 


RITERS  on  South  America  generally  dismiss  Bolivia  witli  a brief  description 
which  affords  no  adequate  idea  of  its  real  place  among  the  republics  of  the 
New  World  or  (,)f  its  unique  interest  from  many  points  of  view.  The  present 
volume,  the  fourth  of  my  series  on  the  Latin-American  republics,  is  devoted 
to  this  important  country  with  the  object  of  making  it  better  known,  not  only 
as  the  home  of  a liberty-loving  nation,  but  as  a land  of  unlimited  commercial  possibilities, 
destined  to  command  universal  attention. 

The  history  of  Bolivia  is  particularly  fascinating  for  the  glimpses  its  monuments 
give  of  the  unsolved  mysteries  of  antiquity,  and  because  its  people  supply  the  keynote 
to  the  interpretation  of  Spanish-American  character.  The  colonists  of  Alto  Peru  became 
Americanized  earlier  than  did  the  people  of  any  of  the  other  Spanish  possessions  in 
the  New  World.  The  Criollo’s  sympathies  were,  from  the  first,  more  American  than 
Spanish;  and  while  he  preserved  many  inherited  characteristics,  he  acquired  others  which 
in  time  developed  within  him  that  unconquerable  spirit  of  freedom — the  infuence  of  the 
West  working  its  spell  upon  heart  and  life — which  led  inevitably  to  national  independence. 

Aside  from  its  historical  and  scientif  c interest,  Bolivia  is  a subject  worthy  of  study  for 
more  practical  reasons.  By  its  position  as  the  central  highway  of  South  America,  it  is  the 
natural  distributing  point  for  traffic  across  the  continent,  lying  midway  between  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacifc  coast  countries,  its  borders  touching  Brazil,  Paraguay,  Argentina,  Chile,  and 
Peru.  Its  industrial  possibilities  are  awakening  general  interest  and  enterprise,  and  there  is 
every  prospect  of  a speedy  revival  of  the  prestige  which  this  country  enjoyed  three  centuries 
ago,  as  one  of  the  richest  and  most  prospenuis  lands  in  the  world,  when  the  name  of  its 
famous  city  of  Potosi  gave  to  the  language  of  all  countries  a synonym  for  fabulous  wealth. 

No  one  can  make  a ju^t  and  impartial  study  of  the  South  American  countries  and  their 
people  without  regretting  the  widespread  ignorance  that  prevails  regarding  them ; and  as 
my  work  progresses,  each  year  f nds  me  more  enthusiastic  on  the  subject  of  theii'  present 
conditions  and  the  prospects  whicli  they  enjoy.  It  has  been  said  that  my  fault  lies  in 

C 


54 


INTRODUCTION 


seeing  the  best  rather  than  the  worst  side  of  life  in  South  America,  and  the  critics  lurve 
blamed  me,  in  some  instances,  for  failing  to  describe  more  fully  the  less  admirable  features 
of  these  countries.  But  it  is  quite  as  possible  to  err  through  a disposition  to  magnify  the 
shortcomings  of  a nation  as  from  too  lenient  judgment.  Books  written  on  any  country  by 
visiting  foreigners  show  how  unfair  and  exaggerated  the  criticisms  of  a pessimistic  alien 
can  be  in  the  opinion  of  those  best  informed.  The  story  of  Bolivia  is  that  of  strong,  sturdy, 
and  determined  people,  who  have  abounding  faith  in  their  country’s  future  and  persistent 
courage  to  direct  its  destiny. 

During  my  stay  in  Bolivia,  and  especially  while  making  my  journey  of  a thousand 
miles  on  muleback  in  the  interior,  visiting  the  capital  and  other  cities,  1 found  this  beautiful 
country  most  attractive  and  interesting.  The  magnificent  scenery,  the  glorious  climate,  the 
absolute  security  with  which  one  may  travel  unmolested  from  one  end  of  the  country 
to  the  other,  and,  above  all,  the  gracious  and  kindly  welcome  received  everywhere  are 
among  the  recollections  of  my  visit  which  remain  a constant  delight,  and  inspire  me  with 
the  desire  to  make  better  known  both  the  land  and  its  charming  people. 

The  unfailing  attentions  shown  me  will  always  be  remembered  with  appreciation. 
With  sincere  gratitude  1 thank  His  Excellency  President  Ismael  Montes  and  the  ministers 
of  his  Cabinet  for  many  courtesies.  1 am  honored  to  have  received  from  the  illustrious 
representative  of  the  Bolivian  nation  constant  evidences  of  gracious  and  kindly  interest 
in  my  work  and  I feel  deeply  indebted  to  his  distinguished  ministers  for  their  generous 
cooperation,  by  facilitating  my  journeys  through  the  country  and  providing  me  with 
important  information. 

Marie  Robinson  Wright. 

Pliiladdpliij,  October  2^,  1906. 


BOLIVIA 


V 


CHAPTER  I 


PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD— SPANISH  INVASION  AND  CONQUEST 


EW  countries  offer  a more  interesting  field  of  study  than 
Bolivia,  a land  of  varied  attraction,  with  mystery  and 
romance  enveloping  the  story  of  its  antiquity  and  lending 
a magic  charm  to  its  many  legends  and  traditions:  with 
records  of  daring  and  devotion  illuminating  the  often  trisie 
pages  of  its  existence  under  Spanish  domination,  and  marking 
a worthy  preface  to  the  annals  of  sturdy  patriotism  revealed 
in  the  long  struggle  for  freedom  which  began  two  cen- 
turies before  South  American  independence  was  an  accom- 
plished fact;  with  the  history  of  the  republic, — with  all 
that  makes  this  land  worth  knowing  as  the  dear  home  of 
a brave  nation. 

To  the  popular  imagination  Bolivia  presents  only  the 
picture  of  a country  somewhere  in  South  America,  above 
the  clouds,  consisting  of  inaccessible  peaks  and  unfathomable  gorges,  with  an  occasional 
plateau  to  give  diversity  to  what  a clever  writer  has  called  “the  roof  of  the  western 
world,”  where  llamas  are  believed  to  pose  eternally  on  rocky  cliffs,  and  gaily  plumed 
Indians  to  form  picturesque  groups  forever  against  a background  of  Inca  architecture. 
This  is  an  archaic  idea,  but  it  is  held  tenaciously  in  the  minds  of  a majority  of  people. 
Bolivia  is  a land  so  rarely  visited  by  the  foreigner  that  it  is  not  remarkable  that  the 
most  extraordinary  notions  prevail  regarding  it.  A few  have  read  of  the  fabulous  riches 
of  Potosi,  but  it  is  not  many  years  ago  that  a distinguished  European  asked  where  “the 
country  called  Potosi  ” was  situated;  and  the  vast  wealth  of  Bolivia,  apparently  so  unlimited 
that  a traveller  was  impressed  to  describe  the  country  as  “a  table  of  silver  supported  by  legs 
of  gold,”  is  yet  a treasure  whose  value  has  never  been  fairly  calculated.  It  is  a closed 
book  to  the  tourist,  though  it  presents  aspects  of  grandeur  undreamed  of  except  by  the 
few  who  have  witnessed  its  beauty,  who  have  felt  the  compelling  majesty  of  snow-capped 

17 


i8 


BOLiyiA 


Illimani  and  wonderful  Sorata,  and  to  whom  the  legends  of  Titicaca  have  been  told  in 
the  wliite  moonlight  as  they  glided  across  its  mirror-like  surface,  seemingly  enveloped 
in  the  glory  of  a higher  sphere, — so  clear  is  the  moonlight  on  this  lake  above  the  clouds, — 
their  souls  thrilling  in  unison  with  the  wondrous  harmony  of  the  perfect  picture.  To  the 
lover  of  varied  scenery  there  is  a fascination  about  this  almost  untravelled  country,  with 
its  bleak  Andean  plateaus  and  densely  wooded  plains,  its  towering  mountains,  rugged 
canons,  and  fertile  valleys,  bounded  as  it  is  on  one  side  by  a desert  so  barren  that  not 
a blade  of  grass  could  find  nourishment,  and  on  the  other  by  the  greatest  river  system 
of  the  globe,  which  receives  and  pours  out  continually  enough  water  to  fertilize  a whole 
continent.  Although  third  in  territory  and  one  of  the  richest  in  natural  resources  among 
the  South  American  republics,  Bolivia  occupies  the  most  remote  position  and  is  the  least 
influenced  by  foreign  association,  placed  as  it  is  in  the  heart  of  the  continent,  with  no 
outlet  to  the  sea  except  through  neighboring  countries,  and  consequently  having  had, 
up  to  the  present,  scant  opportunity  to  establish  extensive  international  relations.  As 
the  country  is  now  entering  upon  a new  era  of  progress,  increasing  its  productiveness, 
building  railroads  in  every  direction  to  connect  the  various  centres  of  industry  with  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  ports  and  the  great  Amazon  waterways,  and  making  improvements  in  all 
branches  of  national  administration,  its  Arcadian  character  is  becoming  modified  to  conform 
to  twentieth  century  conditions  in  the  New  World,  and  the  advance  of  modern  thought 
is  making  its  influence  felt  on  the  Titicaca  plateau  and  in  the  Amazon  valley  as  surely  as 
in  any  other  region  of  South  America. 

It  is  often  said  that  nothing  is  a greater  obstacle  to  modern  progress  than  the  inheri- 
tance of  ancient  monuments,  and  his  majesty  of  Greece  is  credited  with  the  statement 
that  he  would  be  glad  to  have  every  vestige  of  ancient  Athenian  architecture  disappear, 
so  that  his  country  might  be  given  a little  consideration  for  what  twentieth  century  Greeks 
are  doing.  Bolivia’s  heritage  of  some  of  the  most  remarkable  ruins  of  antiquity  has  been  so 
great  an  attraction  to  foreign  writers  that  it  has  diverted  their  interest  almost  entirely  from 
modern  Bolivia ; though  it  is  true  that  the  subject  of  these  ruins  is  one  which  deserves  the 
attention  of  the  world,  one  worthy  of  all  the  scientific  research  given  to  it,  pointing  as  it 
does  to  a solution  of  the  important  problem  of  the  priority  of  races  in  the  New  World. 

Many  theories  have  been  advanced  regarding  the  monumental  ruins  that  exist  in  the 
region  of  Lake  Titicaca — particularly  those  of  Tiahuanaco — as  to  their  origin,  the  people  who 
built  them,  the  period  to  which  they  belong  and  the  degree  of  civilization  which  they  indi- 
cate, but  very  little  is  really  known  about  them,  and  imagination  has  free  rein  to  picture  the 
conditions  that  may  have  existed  before  tlie  Spanish  conquest  brought  Bolivian  history  into 
the  realm  of  certain  knowledge.  There  is  nothing  to  indicate  that  the  primitive  inhabitants 
of  what  is  now  Bolivian  territory  reached  an  important  degree  of  advancement  in  any  other 
part  of  the  country  than  that  known  to  ethnologists  generally  as  Aymaraland,  which  is 
supposed  to  be — though  this,  too,  is  questioned — the  cradle  of  the  Aymara  race,  whose 
origin  is  very  obscure,  but  whose  people  are  considered  by  many  writers  as  the  authors  of 


PRE-COLUMBIA!^  PERIOD—SPANISH  INVASION  AND  CONQUEST  19 


the  most  colossal  examples  of  ancient  architecture  existing  on  the  South  American  continent. 
This  region  is  comprised  in  the  southern  part  of  what  is  now  the  department  of  La  Paz, 
chiefly  in  that  section  which  borders  Lake  Titicaca.  Unfortunately,  everything  relating  to 
it  prior  to  the  period  of  the  Spanish  conquest  is  so  shrouded  in  mystery  as  to  yield  few 
satisfactory  results  to  the  most  careful  investigation  beyond  the  apparently  certain  evidence 
that  it  was  not  a contemporaneous  civilization  that  wrought  such  marvels  of  progress,  but 
the  peoples  of  successive  and  often  remotely  separated  periods  not  necessarily  of  identical 
origin.  According  to  some  authorities,  the  Tiahuanaco  whose  ruins  are  now  to  be  seen. 


GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  LA  PAZ. 


and  which  was  already  a shattered  record  of  past  greatness  when  the  Incas  set  up  their 
dynasty,  is  but  the  remains  of  a second  Tiahuanaco,  the  first  having  been  swallowed  up  at 
a previous  period,  forgotten  ages  ago,  when  a great  seismic  upheaval  changed  the  face  of 
the  Bolivian  plateau  and  buried  out  of  sight  evidences  of  culture  advanced  far  beyond 
anything  the  same  race  attained  subsequently.  Archreologists  generally  agree  in  claiming 
that  at  least  three  distinct  periods  of  culture  are  recorded  in  the  form  and  character  of 
prehistoric  remains  now  being  excavated  in  this  locality.  Naturally  it  is  this  part  of  Bolivia 
which  is  the  centre  of  interest  in  the  study  of  the  pre-Columbian  epoch. 


20 


BOLIVIA 


The  theory  accepted  by  many  ethnologists,  that  the  Indians  of  America  are  of  Asiatic 
origin,  is  met,  on  the  other  hand,  by  the  assertion  of  some  more  recent  investigators — 
notably  those  composing  the  expedition  organized  by  Mr.  Morris  K.  Jessup,  president  of  the 
American  Museum  of  Natural  History,  and  sent  out  by  him  ten  years  ago  to  study  this 
question — that  man  did  not  emigrate  from  Asia  to  America,  as  many  racial  similarities 
seemed  to  prove,  but  that  the  emigration  was  from  America  to  Asia,  the  evidences  of 
human  life  on  the  American  continent  proving  greater  antiquity  of  origin  here  than  in  Asia. 
The  latter  possibility  gives  unique  value  to  the  study  of  a country  within  whose  territory 
have  been  found  indications  of  human  habitation  in  ages  remote  beyond  any  determined 
period.  May  it  not  be  that  Bolivia  has  an  especial  claim  to  universal  attention  as  the  true 
birthplace  of  the  human  race,  and  the  chief  centre  of  its  progress  at  a time  antedating  the 
chronicles  of  Old  World  empires  ? 

Aymara  mythology  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Orient.  According  to  the  oldest 
traditions,  at  the  beginning  of  the  world,  the  god  Khunu,  the  creator  of  all  things,  became 
so  angry  because  of  the  vices  of  mankind  that  he  visited  a great  drought  upon  the  earth, 
converting  fertile  regions  into  deserts : he  deprived  humanity  of  the  means  of  living,  and 
they  became  lower  than  the  beasts.  Then  Pachacamac,  the  supreme  spirit  of  the  universe, 
restored  that  which  had  been  destroyed  by  Khunu  and  gave  new  life  to  mankind.  A second 
time  Khunu  showed  his  wrath  and  sent  a great  flood  and  darkness  upon  the  earth.  The 
few  people  who  were  saved  from  destruction  in  this  calamity  sent  up  prayers  to  heaven, 
and  in  answer  the  sun  appeared  behind  the  rock  Inti-Karka,  on  the  sacred  lake  of  the  same 
name,  since  corrupted  into  Titicaca.  Soon  after  this  appeared  also  the  great  god  Viracocha, 
the  name  signifying  “ foam  of  the  sea,”  so  called  because  he  rose  out  of  the  waters  of  the 
lake.  Viracocha  created  the  sun,  moon  and  stars,  plants  and  animals,  as  well  as  men. 
Tiahuanaco  is  full  of  carvings  representing  this  deity,  and  it  is  the  opinion  of  noted 
archaeologists,  among  others  Professor  Max  Uhle,  who  has  made  a special  study  of  the 
field,  that  Tiahuanaco  was  built  as  a temple  of  this  deity,  and  that  it  was  not,  at  least  in 
later  periods,  a centre  of  population,  as  has  been  generally  believed. 

As  far  back  as  any  records  exist  that  serve  to  trace  the  history  of  the  Aymaras,  there 
appears  to  be  confusion  regarding  their  identity  with  the  Collas,  Umasuyas,  Yungas,  and 
other  tribes  that  are  generally  considered  as  offshoots  of  the  parent  Aymara  stock.  All  these 
tribes  were  natives  of  the  country  now  called  Bolivia,  and  were  governed  by  inallais,  or 
chiefs,  chosen  in  S()me  cases  for  their  military  valor  and  in  others  for  their  venerable 
character.  The  Collas,  or  Charcas,  were  the  most  powei'ful  and  numerous,  and  gave  their 
name  to  the  whole  country,  which  was  called  Collasuyo  by  the  Incas  to  distinguish  it  as  a 
southern  province  of  the  great  empire  of  Tahuantinsuyo,  ‘‘the  kingdom  of  four  regions,” 
the  remaining  three  having  been  called  Antisuyo,  “to  the  east,”  Cuntisuyo,  “to  the  west  ” 
and  Chinchasuyo,  “to  the  north.” 

At  the  period  generally  credited  to  the  advent  of  the  Incas,  the  inhabitants  of  Colla- 
suyo had  already  reached  decadence  and  were  given  up  to  decimating  wars  and  struggles 


PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD— SPANISH  IN  HAS  ION  AND  CONQUEST 


21 


among  themselves.  That  the  Collas,  or  Charcas,  tribes  belonged  to  the  same  stock  as  the 
Aymaras  is  disputed  by  some  of  the  best  authorities,  who  believe  the  latter  an  entirely 
distinct  race,  of  Mongolian  origin,  who  came  to  Bolivia  by  way  of  Arica  on  the  Pacific  coast, 
many  centuries  ago,  and  settled  on  the  Lake  Titicaca  plateau  because  it  was  the  centre  of  a 
region  belonging  to  a people  of  peaceable  habits,  living,  not  on  the  barren  heights,  but  in 
the  valleys  and  on  the  slopes  around.  These  authorities  give  the  Aymaras  no  share  in  the 
construction  of  the  great  monuments,  which  they  claim  were  built  there  only  as  sanctuaries, 
apart  from  the  habitations  of  the  people,  explaining  that  because  of  their  great  solidity 


THE  NEW  GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  SUCRE. 


of  construction  they  have  survived  the  changes  which  brought  about  the  decadence  and 
oblivion  of  the  race  that  built  them. 

The  Bolivian  historian  Sehor  Don  Jose  Maria  Camacho  apparently  favors  the  theory 
which  gives  the  Aymaras  credit  for  the  culture  that  found  expression  in  these  colossal 
structures.  In  an  entertaining  chapter  on  this  subject  he  writes:  “ It  is  presumable  that  in 
order  to  have  attained  the  degree  of  prosperity  which  their  monuments  reveal,  as  well  as  to 
have  arrived  at  the  state  of  decadence  in  which  the  Quichuas  found  them,  the  Aymaras 
must  have  experienced,  through  a long  succession  of  centuries,  great  social  changes  and  the 
devastating  inroads  of  other  tribes.”  The  same  author  gives  an  interesting  description  of 
these  people,  with  particular  reference  to  their  government,  religion,  and  mode  of  life.  In 
addition  to  the  niallni,  or  supreme  chief,  there  were  the  jihikaUs,  or  secondary  authorities. 


22 


BOLIVIA 


and,  in  some  parts,  there  were  also  sacerdotal  chiefs,  whose  word  was  the  law  of  the  com- 
munity. “ The  Aymaras,”  says  Sehor  Camacho,  “ believed  in  the  existence  of  God,  whom 
they  called  Pachacamac,  which  means  ‘ eternal.’  They  supposed  that  he  revealed  himself 
to  the  eyes  of  mankind  in  every  object  of  Nature;  from  which  their  religion  degenerated 
into  complete  fetichism,  losing  its  spiritual  significance  entirely.  They  believed  in  the  ex- 
istence of  the  soul  and  in  its  immortality:  in  the  evil  spirit;  in  the  resurrection  of  the  body; 
and  in  eternal  reward  and  punishment.  They  were  acquainted  with  the  meaning  of  prayer, 
knew  of  confession  and  penance,  and  were  accustomed  to  offer  sacrifices.  Their  most 
celebrated  sanctuary  was  Inti-Karka,  signifying  ‘the  rock  of  the  sun,’  a name  that  has  ex- 
tended to  the  island  on  which  it  was  located  and  to  Lake  Titicaca  itself.  Each  tribe  of  the 
Aymaras  was  distinguished  from  the  others  in  dress  and  more  particularly  by  the  cap,  a 
knitted  kind  of  headgear,  and  this  distinction  still  prevails.  The  tribes  had  ideas  of  military 
art,  were  skilled  in  constructing  fortresses,  which  they  called  piicaras,  some  of  which  remain 
to  the  present  day;  they  used  the  lance,  the  sling,  and  the  arrow.  Their  chief  industry  was 
agriculture ; they  had  many  herds  of  llamas,  and  paid  careful  attention  to  the  cultivation  of 
their  fields.  Commerce  was  reduced  to  a limited  exchange  of  products.  They  had  an  idea 
of  hieroglyphic  writing.  Their  language  is  reputed  by  eminent  philologists  to  be  one  of  the 
mother  tongues — the  most  ancient,  richest,  and  most  complete  in  existence.” 

One  of  the  chief  difficulties  in  the  way  of  acquiring  adequate  information  regarding 
the  religious  beliefs  of  the  races  that  were  conquered  by  the  Spaniards  is  the  tendency 
of  the  Indians  to  engraft  Christian  teachings  on  their  Aymara  and  Quichua  traditions  to 
such  a degree  that  it  is  not  possible  to  know  exactly  where  the  influence  of  the  Church 
enters  into  their  records.  There  is  much  confusion  also  between  Aymara  and  Quichua 
deities.  Pachacamac  and  Viracocha  are  apparently  only  different  names  of  the  same  deity, 
commonly  used  both  in  Quichua  and  Aymara  traditions,  and  in  many  cases  the  influence  of 
Aymara  traditions  upon  the  religion  of  the  Incas  is  marked  as  clearly  as  are  the  traditions 
of  the  Children  of  the  Sun  to-day  upon  the  modern  religious  beliefs  of  these  Indians,  gained 
through  four  centuries  of  Christian  teaching.  No  foreigner  who  has  visited  the  land  of  the 
Incas  can  fail  to  observe  the  strange  interpretation  which  they  put  upon  Bible  truths. 

According  to  various  existing  traditions  the  Aymaras  and  the  Quichuas  had  been  rival 
races  from  time  immemorial,  alternately  superseding  each  other  until  the  final  change  gave 
the  Quichuas  uninterrupted  ascendancy,  under  the  dominion  of  the  Inca  dynasty,  and  they 
achieved  a degree  of  advancement  and  culture  beyond  that  of  any  other  primitive  race  of 
South  America  within  the  period  of  existing  records.  It  is  a singular  fact,  awaiting  explana- 
tion by  tlie  ethnologists,  that  the  Aymaras  appear  to  have  been  always  confned  almost 
exclusively  to  the  Titicaca  plateau,  while  the  Quichuas  are  found  not  only  in  the  region 
extending  from  the  lake  northward  to  Cuzco,  but  in  the  departments  of  Cochabamba, 
Chuquisaca,  Potosi,  and  Oruro.  There  is  a theory,  accepted  by  some  ethnologists,  that 
the  Aymaras  and  the  Quichuas  were  of  the  same  origin,  the  Aymaras  having  evolved 
in  the  course  of  many  generations,  and  under  the  harsh  necessities  of  the  rigorous  soil  and 


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THE  ALAMEDA,  THE  FAVORITE  PROMENADE  OF  LA  PAZ. 


PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD— SPANISH  IN  U A SION  AND  CONQUEST  2^ 

climate  of  the  plateau,  into  a hardy  race  of  highlanders,  differing  in  character  and  even  in 
appearance,  from  their  Quichua  brothers  who  had  been  subjected  to  less  severe  natural  con- 
ditions in  their  development  on  the  fertile  mountain  slopes  and  in  the  valleys  of  the  regions 
they  occupied.  It  seems  incredible  that  offspring  of  the  same  race  should  develop  a higher 
degree  of  culture  on  the  arid  plateau  than  in  the  fertile  valley;  yet  the  evidences  of  advance- 
ment among  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  the  Titicaca  region  indicate  that  they  were  leaders  of 
progress  among  their  contemporaries,  who  have  left  no  monuments  equal  to  those  of  the 
Titicaca  plateau.  It  has  been  claimed  that  the  great  empire  of  Tahuantinsuyo  was  built 
upon  a foundation  purely  Aymara,  and  that  the  first  Inca  obtained  from  Collasuyo  his 
ideas  regarding  government,  religion,  and  even  architecture,  which  were  afterward  devel- 
oped according  to  the  genius  of  his  successors.  The  most  reasonable  theory  seems  to 
be  that  the  Quichua  culture  had  been  in  process  of  development  long  ages  before  the 
establishment  of  Inca  empire,  and  that  it  may  be  traced  to  a source  identical  with 
the  origin  of  the  Collas,  whether  this  race  be  related  to  or  distinct  from  the  Aymaras. 
The  question  affords  a prolife  subject  of  controversy,  and  remains  unsettled  in  the  minds 
of  impartial  students  of  ethnology  and  archaeology.  Whether  the  Aymaras  are  too  primi- 
tive a people  to  have  had  any  connection  with  the  history  of  the  wonderful  monuments 
of  the  Titicaca  plateau ; whether  the  Quichuas  in  long  periods  of  culture,  possibly  inter- 
rupted, and  daf ng  from  great  antiquity,  constructed  these  colossal  monolifrs ; whether 
these  Quichuas  were  of  Peruvian  origin,  and  fie  Aymaras  also  first  came  from  the  region 
of  the  Apurimac  in  that  country;  or  whether  the  Quichuas  were  frst  the  inhabitants  of 
Collasuyo  and  had  their  ancestral  domain  in  the  land  of  the  Charcas, — who,  according 
to  some  ethnologists,  belong  to  the  same  parent  stock  as  the  Quichuas, — all  are  theories 
for  the  scientists  to  settle  when  more  extensive  investigation  shall  afford  better  ground  for 
establishing  proofs. 

The  poetical  story  of  the  frst  Inca’s  appearance  is  worthy  of  the  race  that  invented  it. 
The  Inca  historian,  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  fgures  in  the  land- 
scape of  ancient  Peru,  even  as  he  himself  paints  it  for  us,  and  the  only  contemporary 
authority  of  note  on  the  history  of  fie  Peruvian  empire,  relates  in  inimitable  style  the  story 
of  the  frst  Inca’s  appearance.’  In  his  ConienUrios  Rcales  he  tells  us  that  the  Sun,  the 
life-giving  and  fructifying  deity  of  the  universe,  was  moved  to  pity  by  the  contemplation 
of  degraded  humanity,  and  in  order  to  redeem  it  he  sent  down  from  heaven  his  two 
children,  IVlanco-Ccapac  and  Mama  Ocllo,  causing  fiem  to  appear  on  the  island  of  Inti-Karka, 
where,  after  the  great  food,  brought  upon  the  earth  by  the  god  Khunu  (meaning  snow,  and 
supposed  to  have  reference  to  the  glacial  period),  the  Sun  had  benefcently  extended  his 
frst  rays.  This  mysterious  pair,  who  were  at  the  same  time  brother  and  sister  and  husband 
and  wife,  crossed  the  plains  north  of  the  Lake  Inti-Karka,  carrying  with  them  a sceptre  in 
the  form  of  a bar  of  gold,  which  was  to  determine  the  place  of  their  permanent  abode 
by  the  facility  with  which  it  buried  itself  in  the  earth.  They  proclaimed  themselves  children 
of  fie  Sun,  and  announced  as  their  mission  the  civilization  of  ail  savage  tribes  and  the 


26 


BOLIVIA 


FOUNTAIN  IN  MURILLO  PLAZA,  LA  PAZ. 


establishment  of  an  empire  which  would  be  under  their  own  benevolent  government,  as 
divine  rulers  who  inherited  their  rights  from  their  father  the  Sun. 

The  liistorian  adds,  with  the  naive  gravity  of  a true  descendant  of  the  Incas,  that  as 
the  sacred  bar  buried  itself  most  easily  in  the  soil  of  Cuzco,  that  locality  was  made  the 
site  of  the  Inca  capital.  Tlie  first  Inca  was  called  Manco-Ccapac,  and  his  wife  Mama  Oclla. 
Pedro  Kramer,  in  his  Historia  de  Bolivia,  says  the  name  Maiico  is  evidently  a corruption  of 
niallni,  and  that  Manco-Ccapac  was  an  Aymara  chief  or  sacerdote,  of  great  talent  and  superior 
k'nowledge,  who  probably  left  his  home  on  account  of  the  wars  of  extermination  which 
the  Aymaras  were  carrying  on  at  that  time,  and,  with  his  sister,  embarked  in  one  of  the 
little  balsas,  or  canoes,  made  of  rushes  which  are  used  at  the  present  day  on  Lake  Titicaca, 
the  two  making  their  way  to  one  of  the  islands  in  the  lake,  where  they  remained  hidden 
until  it  was  safe  for  them  to  continue  their  voyage  to  the  opposite  or  western  border.  There 
they  landed  and  became  acquainted  with  the  neighboring  Quichua  tribes,  continuing  further 
north  on  their  journey,  until  they  arrived  in  Cuzco.  They  found  themselves  in  the  midst 
of  a people  of  hospitable  disposition  and  submissive  character,  who,  seeing  that  the  pilgrims 
were  superior  in  wisdom  and  beauty,  began  by  respecting  them  and  ended  by  rendering 
them  mystic  reverence.  The  royal  pair  founded  a city  which  they  called  Cuzco,  “the  navel 
of  the  universe,”  and  began  the  organization  of  the  great  Inca  empire  of  Tahuantinsuyo, 
with  which  the  history  of  Bolivia  is  also  associated.  The  Bolivia  of  to-day  is  represented  in 
Collasuyo,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  tributary  to  the  Cuzco  monarchs,  required  to  send 


PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD— SPANISH  INVASION  AND  CONQUEST  27 


their  share  of  gold  to  the  royal  coffers,  to  labor  in  the  royal  mines,  and  to  serve  in  the 
royal  household.  But  the  subjection  of  Collasuyo  to  Inca  authority  did  not  take  place 
until  the  reign  of  the  fourth  Inca.  Even  then  the  warlike  Bolivian  highlander  was  not 
entirely  subdued,  and  he  remained  a troublesome  vassal  of  the  empire  throughout  the 
entire  period  of  Inca  rule. 

When  the  fourth  Inca,  Maita-Ccapac,  marched  into  Collasuyo  at  the  head  of  an  army 
of  twelve  thousand  men,  he  was  met  by  the  natives  with  sturdy  and  determined  resistance, 
but  he  conquered  by  superior  force  of  arms,  returning  well  satisfied  with  the  result  of 
the  invasion.  It  was  upon  the  occasion  of  this  visit  that  he  became  so  impressed  with  the 
grandeur  of  theTiahuanaco  ruins  that  he  thought  of  making  this  place  the  seat  of  his  empire. 
His  successor,  the  Inca  Ccapac-Yupanqui,  extended  the  empire  eastward  and  southward, 
marching  over  a great  deal  of  territory  and  subduing  numerous  tribes.  There  was  continued 
opposition  to  the  invaders  on  the  part  of  both  the  Aymaras  and  the  Charcas,  and  repeated 
revolts  kept  the  country  in  a ferment  of  warfare.  Pachacutec,  one  of  the  wisest  of  the 
Incas,  visited  Collasuyo,  spending  several  years  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Titicaca,  and 
making  an  expedition  to  Oruro,  one  of  the  most  important  pueblos. 

The  Incas  were  by  no  means  insensible  to  the  advanced  culture  everywhere  shown 
in  the  monuments  and  temples  of  Collasuyo.  They  copied  much  from  the  works  of 
the  vanquished  race,  and  some  authorities  go  so  far  as  to  say  that  they  got  all  their  ideas 
of  civilization  from  this  source,  modifying  little  and  adding  less;  others  assert,  as  proof 
to  the  contrary,  that  there  is  nothing  to  establish  this  claim  beyond  the  similarity  naturally 
existing  in  the  ideas  of  races  allied  in  thought  through  long  periods  of  mutual  interchange. 


PRESIDENT'S  COACH  IN  THE  ANNUAL  INDEPENDENCE  DAY  PROCESSION,  LA  PAZ. 


28 


BOLIVIA 


But,  leaving  aside  all  puz- 
zling problems,  there  is  a witch- 
ery of  romance  in  the  story  of 
the  great  Incas  descending  upon 
Collasuyo  in  all  the  glory  and 
pomp  of  royal  power,  and  set- 
ting up  their  court  on  a scale  of 
truly  Oriental  magnificence  upon 
the  sacred  island  of  the  Sun, 
in  the  sacred  Lake  Titicaca,  over 
twelve  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea,  in  the  heart  of  a continent  at 
that  time  unknown  to  Pizarro’s 
hosts,  a continent  of  savages  be- 
yond the  limits  of  the  vast  Peru- 
vian empire,  which  according  to 
some  authorities  extended  over 
the  greater  part  of  South  America 
and  counted  among  its  vassals 
twenty  millions  of  people.  No 
wonder  that  the  great  Tupac- 
Inca-Yupanqui  spent  many  years  in  this  enchanting  spot,  and  erected  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
lake  and  on  its  various  islands  his  wonderful  palaces!  One  is  only  at  a loss  to  imagine  why 
the  sacred  golden  rod  of  Manco-Ccapac  did  not  sink  itself  with  greater  facility  into  the 
Rock  of  the  Sun  in  the  beginning  of  Inca  history.  It  is  related  that  Tupac-lnca-Yupanqui 
erected  not  only  a sumptuous  palace,  but  a temple  dedicated  to  the  sun,  the  richest  of 
the  whole  empire:  temples  were  also  dedicated  to  thunder  and  lightning,  a monastery  was 
built  for  the  sons  of  nobles,  a sanctuary  for  the  vestal  virgins,  houses  were  erected  for  the 
Inca’s  followers:  the  Rock  of  the  Sun  was  paved  with  silver  and  gold,  the  neighboring  island 
of  Coati  (from  Coya,  the  Moon,  wife  of  the  Sun)  was  consecrated  to  the  moon,  and  temples 
were  erected  there,  the  ruins  of  which  still  remain,  as  well  as  those  of  the  sun  temple  on 
the  island  of  Titicaca.  The  Inca  fasted  for  a whole  year,  it  is  stated  in  the  records, 
abstaining  from  meat  and  aji — a pepper  seed  indispensable  in  the  Quichua  and  Aymara 
cuisine — in  order  to  prove  his  devotion  and  the  serious  purpose  of  his  pilgrimage. 

It  was  in  Collasuyo  that  Huayna-Ccapac,  the  father  of  the  ill-fated  Atahuallpa,  spent 
his  earlier  years,  having  been  left  in  charge  of  the  palaces  and  temples  erected  on  Lake 
Titicaca  by  his  father,  Tupac-Inca-Yupanqui.  He  became  learned  in  the  culture  of  the 
ancient  inliabitants  of  the  lake  region,  and  while  under  the  spell  of  its  charm,  or  through 
an  inspiration  of  spiritual  understanding,  he  taught  the  existence  of  a deity  superior 
to  the  sun,  invisible  to  mortal  eyes,  the  source  of  all  power.  Huayna-Ccapac  was  one 


MONUMENT  TO  GENERAL  BALLIVIAN  IN  THE  ALAMEDA,  LA  PAZ. 


PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD—SPANISH  IN  U A SION  AND  CONQUEST  29 


of  the  most  illustrious  of  his  race  and  added  much  to  the  prestige  of  the  empire  by  his 
conquests  and  discoveries.  He  explored  the  rich  mines  of  Porco,  south  of  Potosi,  visited 
the  thriving  pueblo  of  Chuquiapu, — on  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  La  Paz, — and  cele- 
brated there  with  great  splendor  the  religious  festival  of  “ Raymi.”  One  of  his  sons,  Manco, 
famed  later  for  the  determined  campaign  he  led  against  the  Spaniards,  and  who  was  put 
to  death  by  order  of  Almagro,  Pizarro’s  general,  was  a native  of  Collasuyo,  having  been 
born  at  Tiahuanaco. 

At  the  very  height  of  power  and  in  the  full  brilliancy  of  Collasuyo’s  glory,  when 
Huayna-Ccapac  was  visiting  his  wonderful  palaces  and  temples  on  the  sacred  lake,  and  all 
was  apparently  peace  and  security  in  the  vast  realm,  which  had  so  steadily  extended  its 
boundaries  since  the  first  Inca  placed  his  sceptre  in  the  soil  of  Cuzco  that  there  remained 
little  to  conquer  worth  the  effort ; when  no  cloud  seemed  visible  in  the  sky, — suddenly  an 
awful  presage  of  coming  evil  gripped  the  heart  of  the  great  Inca  in  a spasm  of  foreboding. 
Strange  signs  appeared  in  the  heavens,  lightning  struck  down  one  of  the  Inca’s  palaces, 
earthquakes  threatened,  and,  to  complete  the  catalogue  of  bad  omens,  the  news  was  spread 
that  white  and  bearded  men, 
sailing  in  houses  of  wood, — 
whose  coming  had  been  pre- 
dicted by  the  Inca  Ripac  more 
than  a century  before, — had 
been  seen  in  the  Pacific. 

To  relieve  the  sadness  of 
his  heart  under  such  terrible 
conditions,  the  Inca  left  his  be- 
loved Collasuyo  and  repaired 
to  Quito  to  seek  refuge  from 
care  in  the  sweet  companion- 
ship of  his  favorite.  Pacha,  the 
mother  of  his  best  beloved 
son,  Atahuallpa.  The  story  of 
his  death  and  of  the  succes- 
sion of  his  two  sons,  Atahuallpa 
and  Huascar,  the  former  to  the 
throne  of  Quito  and  the  latter 
to  that  of  Peru, — their  quarrels 
and  the  consequent  weaken- 
ing of  the  Empire’s  defence  at 
the  very  moment  when  great- 
est strength  was  needed, — 
the  events  connected  with  the 


PICTURESQUE  SCENE  NEAR  LA  PAZ. 


30 


BOLIVIA 


imprisonment  and  death  of  Atahuallpa,  and  the  occupation  of  his  throne  by  Francisco 
Pizarro, — belong  ratlier  to  Peruvian  than  to  Bolivian  history. 


ALAMEDA  GATEWAY.  LA  PAZ. 


The  first  invasion  of  Bolivia  by  the  Spaniards  was  made  under  the  orders  of  Pizarro’s 
companion  in  the  conquest,  Diego  de  Almagro,  who  chose  the  route  through  Collasuyo  on 
his  march  to  Chile.  The  vanguard  of  this  expedition  was  placed  in  charge  of  Juan  de 
Saavedra,  who  founded  the  f rst  Spanish  town  on  Bolivian  soil  at  Paria,  a few  miles  from 
Oruro.  Continuing  southward,  Almagro’s  party  made  a halt  at  Tupiza,  and  then  pursued 
their  ill-fated  course  southward,  leaving  the  rich  mines  of  Charcas  unexplored  and  plunging 
into  the  horrors  of  a trans-Andean  journey  altogether  the  most  terrible  in  suffering  and 
deprivation  that  is  recorded  in  the  annals  of  the  Spanish  conquest.  Afterward,  the  unhappy 
adventurer  expressed  the  keenest  regret  that  he  had  not  remained  in  Charcas  and  colonized 
it  instead  of  continuing  the  proftless  march  which  proved  his  ruin. 

It  was  not  long  before  Spanish  cupidity  turned  its  attention  to  the  valuable  mines 
known  to  exist  in  this  part  of  the  Inca’s  former  dominions.  Hernando  and  Gonzalo  Pizarro, 
brothers  of  the  conqueror,  undertook  the  invasion  of  the  country,  but  after  a short  f me 
Hernando  returned  to  Cuzco,  and  Gonzalo  became  chiefly  identified  with  the  history  of 
Spanish  conquest  in  Bolivia.  His  first  victory  of  note  was  in  the  valley  of  Cochabamba, 
followed  by  a more  signal  triumph  over  the  Charcas  Indians  in  Chuquisaca,  which  gave 


PRE-COLUMBIAN  PERIOD—SPANISH  IN UA SION  AND  CONQUEST  31 


him  practically  undisputed  sway.  By  order  of  Francisco  Pizarro,  Pedro  Anzures  founded, 
on  the  site  of  an  Indian  village,  the  city  of  Chuquisaca,  also  called  Charcas,  the  seat  of  the 
royal  Audiencia,  and,  later.  La  Plata,  the  archiepiscopal  see.  It  is  now  known  as  Sucre,  in 
honor  of  the  hero  of  the  Independence.  Unwearying  in  the  pursuit  of  adventure,  Gonzalo 
Pizarro  set  out  on  an  expedition  into  the  forests  of  the  Amazon,  which  yielded  little  in 
results.  Upon  his  return,  he  devoted  his  attention  to  the  development  of  rich  mines  of 
which  he  had  taken  possession  in  Porco,  until  altered  conditions  in  political  affairs  led  him 
to  head  a rebellion  against  the  newly  appointed  viceroy,  Blasco  Nunez  de  Vela,  in  a struggle 
to  gain  the  supremacy  as  Governor  of  Peru.  The  viceroy  had  been  sent  out  from  Spain 
with  orders  from  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  to  reform  the  abuses  of  the  system  of  encoinienda, 
by  which  the  conquerors  claimed  ownership  not  only  of  the  land,  but  of  the  Indians  who 
occupied  it,  under  the  pretext  of  converting  them  to  Christianity,  and  treated  them  with 
unparalleled  cruelty.  The  opposition  of  Gonzalo  Pizarro  and  others  to  this  action  on  the 
part  of  Spain  led  to  open  warfare;  and  Gonzalo  marched  to  Lima,  the  new  Spanish  capital, 
defeated  the  viceroy’s  army,  and  executed  the  viceroy.  Then,  finding  that  a reactionary 
sentiment  had  been  stirred  up  in  Chuquisaca  by  his  rival,  Centeno,  and  that  there  was  a 
strong  party  arrayed  against  his  authority  there,  he  commissioned  the  redoubtable  old 
warrior  Carvajal,  one  of  the  most  uncompromising  fighters  of  the  conquest,  to  restore 
tranquillity.  The  chase  which  Carvajal  gave  Centeno,  and  the  territory  the  two  armies 
covered  without  engaging  in  battle, — Centeno  being  finally  obliged  to  disperse  his  troops, — 
were  subjects  of  keen  ridicule,  and  the  battle  was  nicknamed  the  “fight  of  claws.”  Gonzalo 
Pizarro  himself  soon  afterward  met  and  vanquished  Centeno  at  the  battle  of  Huarina,  on  the 
borders  of  Lake  Titicaca.  But  the  good  fortune  of  Pizarro  was  short-lived.  About  this  time 
the  Emperor  Charles  V.  sent  out  Pedro  de  la  Gasca,  with  instructions  to  establish  order  in  the 
new  colony.  La  Gasca  attacked  Pizarro’s  forces  at  Sacsahuana,  near  Cuzco,  gaining  a 
complete  victory,  and  destroying  forever  the  power  of  the  Pizarro  party,  which  had  been 
already  weakened  by  the  disaffection  of  his  followers,  owing  to  his  own  pusillanimity  and 
Carvajal’s  cruelty.  Both  Gonzalo  Pizarro  and  Carvajal  were  put  to  death. 

As  a memorial  of  the  peace  which  had  been  achieved  by  his  victory  over  Pizarro, 
La  Gasca  gave  orders  to  Captain  Alonso  de  Mendoza  to  found  a city  in  the  valley  of 
Chuquiapu,  which  he  desired  should  be  established,  in  the  phrase  of  Tacitus,  “with  a greater 
number  of  good  customs  than  laws.”  The  foundation  of  the  city  was  begun  on  the  first 
anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Sacsahuana,  October  20,  i5'4^,  and  it  was  named  Nuestra  Sehora 
de  La  Paz.  The  Villa  Imperial  de  Potosi  had  been  founded  a few  months  before  by  Diego 
Centeno  and  Alonso  Santandia,  upon  the  discovery  of  the  rich  mines  that  were  later  to 
make  it  one  of  the  famous  cities  of  the  world. 

In  the  founding  of  La  Paz,  the  Titicaca  plateau  became  again  the  honored  spot  chosen 
to  mark  the  birth  of  a new  regime  in  South  America.  It  was  peculiarly  fitting  that  this 
locality,  which  bears  witness  to  succeeding  periods  of  primitive  culture,  and  to  the  rise  and 
development  of  the  greatest  of  native  dynasties,  should  have  been  selected  to  commemorate 


BOLIVIA 


32 

the  successful  establishment  of  a greater  power  on  the  continent  and  the  beginning  of  a 
new  national  existence.  Centuries  later,  when  this  power  proved  insupportable  through 
greed  and  injustice,  the  same  site  was  once  more  chosen  to  mark  a fresh  beginning, 
when  the  march  of  civilization  was  signalized  by  the  first  proclamation  of  the  patriots  of 
Indepencience.  And  the  last  honor  was  the  most  glorious  of  all ; for  in  choosing  the  City  of 
Peace  on  the  Titicaca  plateau  as  the  sacred  spot  whereon  to  set  the  seal  of  victory  upon 
one  of  the  noblest  efforts  of  mankind — the  effort  to  establish  the  rights  of  human  liberty — 
Destiny  has  bestowed  a noble  distinction  upon  the  Bolivian  nation,  and  one  which  should 
inspire  its  posterity  to  deeds  of  highest  worth. 


ILLIMANI 


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DOORWAY  AND  PATIO  OF  A PRIVATE  RESIDENCE,  COLONIAL  PERIOD,  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  II 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  VICEROYALTY 


T' 


'HE  great  empire  of  the  Incas  fell 
to  pieces  like  a house  of  cards. 
The  splendor  of  their  palaces,  the 
riches  of  their  sacred  temples,  the  very 
pride  of  the  people  seemed  to  crumble 
into  ruins  in  a day.  It  is  remarkable 
that  a culture  representing  centuries 
of  progress  and  revealing  such  a high 
order  of  intelligence  as  that  of  the 
Incas  could  apparently  fade  away 
within  an  incredibly  short  time.  Of 
the  twenty  million  souls,  more  or 
less,  composing  the  Peruvian  empire, 
only  the  Inca  and  a few  nobles  had 
been  imprisoned  or  killed.  The  Span- 
iards were  a mere  handful  against 
those  that  remained.  It  has  been 
said  that  if  the  imprisoned  Inca  could 
have  summoned  his  faithful  subjects 
they  would  quickly  have  slain  every 
Spaniard  on  the  continent.  But  he 
was  not  permitted  to  speak'  to  his 
people,  and  they  had  never  been 
taught  to  act  independently  of  his  will. 
The  Inca  had  held  as  a royal  prerogative  the  divine  power  of  initiative,  and  it  was  forbidden 
to  the  masses  to  think  or  act  upon  their  own  responsibility.  When  the  final  calamity  came, 
and  there  was  no  longer  anyone  in  authority  to  tell  them  what  to  do,  they  could  do  nothin 


CARVED  STONE  DOORWAY  OF  SAN  LORENZO  CHURCH,  POTOSi'. 


cr  • 

& ’ 


3^ 


36 


BOLIVIA 


and  in  this  fact  lies  the  secret  of  the  Spaniards  easy  conquest  of  the  Inca’s  subjects  when 
once  the  Inca  himself  had  been  disposed  of.  They  were  like  sheep  without  a shepherd, 
and  their  conquerors  behaved  like  wolves.  Bolivia  suffered  the  same  fate  as  the  rest 
of  the  fallen  empire — its  inhabitants  were  enslaved  and  held  under  the  rigorous  system  of 
Spanish  rule  as  firmly  as  those  of  other  provinces.  This  system  was  established  at  the 
point  of  the  sword. 

The  Spaniards  had  come  to  the  New  World  in  quest  of  gold,  and  the  history  of  Spanish 
rule  in  America  is  a record  of  plunder  in  the  beginning  and  unjust  extortion  to  the  end. 
There  was  no  religious  sentiment  connected  with  the  voluntary  exile  of  the  conquerors  from 
their  native  land,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  of  New  England,  nor  did  the  idea  of 
colonization  appeal  to  them  except  as  it  was  necessary  to  the  realization  of  their  golden 
dreams  of  avarice.  The  filibustering  adventurers  led  on  by  Pizarro  would  have  scorned  the 
routine  of  toil  which  the  Puritans  were  willing  to  face  daily  for  the  sake  of  the  principles 
that  had  brought  them  across  the  sea,  and  in  the  hope  of  establishing  a home  in  their  new 
country.  Yet,  in  their  religious  zeal  and  fury  against  witchcraft  and  unbelief,  the  Puritans 
were  often  as  cruel  as  their  Spanish  contemporaries  in  Peru,  showing  that  the  spirit  of 
those  times  was  a malignant  one,  whether  aroused  to  pious  frenzy  or  inflamed  by  grosser 
passions. 

When  the  chief  leaders  among  the  conquerors  fell  in  the  struggle  for  power  that 
succeeded  the  invasion,  their  places  were  quickly  filled  by  men  better  qualified  than  those 
belligerent  nomads  to  establish  a settled  order  of  things  in  the  conquered  territory,  and  to 
proceed  systematically  toward  the  accomplishment  of  the  chief  purpose  of  their  authority, — 
to  fill  up  the  royal  coffers  with  gold.  Within  fifty  years  after  Pizarro  landed  with  his 
followers  on  the  shores  of  Peru  in  1^33,  not  only  was  the  Spanish  conquest  an  accomplished 
fact,  but  the  various  disturbances  naturally  arising  out  of  jealousy  among  the  conquerors  had 
been  quelled,  the  unsatisfactory  encoinieiida  had  been  abolished,  and  the  colonial  system 
had  been  perfected  and  put  in  operation.  The  Collasuyo  of  the  Inca  empire  became  the 
Charcas  of  the  conquerors,  and  this  name  was  again  changed  by  the  colonial  authorities  to 
Alto  Peru.  The  great  Council  of  the  Indies,  the  supreme  tribunal  instituted  in  Cadiz,  Spain, 
primarily  to  protect  the  Indians  and  finally  to  take  charge  of  all  colonial  affairs,  formulated 
the  laws  that  ruled  the  Spanish  colonies  in  the  New  World.  One  of  its  first  acts  was  to 
abolish  the  two  governments  of  New  Castile  and  New  Toledo,  into  which  the  conquerors 
had  divided  Spanish  South  America, — the  limits  of  which  had  been  the  cause  of  all  the  fatal 
strife  between  Pizarro  and  Almagro, — and  to  create  the  viceroyalty  of  Peru  in  i ^42,  with 
authority  over  all  these  possessions.  The  viceroy  represented  the  highest  colonial  power, 
and  presided  over  the  two  Audiencias  Reales,  or  royal  audiences,  into  which  the  viceroyalty 
was  divided.  These  were  the  Audiencia  of  Lima,  which  comprised  the  territory  hitherto 
known  as  New  Castile,  and  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas,  which  covered  the  former  New 
Toledo.  The  Audiencias  were  supreme  courts,  annexed  to  the  viceroyalties,  but  directly 
responsible  to  the  crown.  They  exercised  both  judicial  and  administrative  functions. 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  VICEROYALTY 


37 


One  of  the  most  important  offices  in  the  history  of  Spanish  government  in  Ameiica  was 
held  by  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas,  created  in  when  the  Marquis  of  Cahete  was  Viceroy 
of  Peru.  Its  jurisdiction  extended  over  the  whole  southern  and  eastern  part  of  Spanish 
America,  its  chief  seat  being  Chuquisaca,  or  Charcas,  the  capital  of  Alto  Peru.  Established 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  Spanish  South  American  possessions,  in  a locality  almost  inaccessibly 
remote  from  the  viceroy’s  capital  at  Lima,  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas  wielded  an  authority  as 
independent  and  powerful  within  its  jurisdiction  as  that  of  the  viceroy  himself;  while  its 
capital  became  the  centre  of  what  was  equivalent  to  a second  viceregal  court.  Chuquisaca 
gained  additional  prestige  from  its  importance  as  the  episcopal  see  of  the  diocese  of  Charcas 


FACADE  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO  CHURCH.  LA  PAZ.  STONE  CARVING  OF  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY. 


and  as  the  seat  of  the  University  of  San  Francisco  Xavier,  which  became  renowned 
throughout  Spanish  America  for  its  learning,  ranking  with  the  University  of  Salamanca,  in 
Spain.  To  this  Audiencia’s  jurisdiction  were  subject  the  governors  of  Tucuman,  Paraguay, 
and  Buenos  Aires,  and  the  missions  of  Chiquitos  and  Mojos. 

Referring  to  the  exalted  privileges  of  the  Audiencia,  Gabriel  Rene  Moreno,  a Bolivian 
writer  of  note,  says;  “The  Audiencia  was  at  the  same  time  a royal  chancery,  which  used 
the  royal  seal  and  headed  its  decrees  with  the  name  of  the  reigning  sovereign,  as  if  he  were 
present.’’  Among  its  multiple  duties,  as  recorded  in  the  archives  of  the  Council  of  the 
Indies,  were;  “To  be  vigilant  in  behalf  of  the  Indians,  to  see  that  they  are  given  Christian 
instruction  and  good  treatment,  for  which  purpose  a protector  shall  be  named;  to  be 


BOLiyiA 


38 

informed  in  reference  to  the  king’s  tax,  and  in  all  that  relates  to  the  preservation  of  the 
royal  prerogatives ; to  collect  the  legacies  of  ecclesiastical  benefices ; to  approve  the  lists  of 

fees  of  curates,  notaries,  and  in- 
spectors, without  which  requi- 
site they  have  no  legal  force.” 
Furthermore,  in  addition  to  the 
central  government,  which  in 
matters  of  administration,  pol- 
icy, and  finance  was  exercised 
by  the  Audiencia,  the  oidores,  or 
judges,  discharged  innumerable 
special  functions.  The  Audien- 
cia of  Charcas  was  composed 
of  five  oidores  and  two  fiscal 
assessors.  The  oidores  were 
required  to  visit  the  territories 
of  their  separate  jurisdictions 
every  three  years.  In  civil 
cases  only  was  it  permitted  to 
appeal  to  the  Council  of  the  Indies  from  the  Audiencia’s  decision.  But  in  spite  of  the 
number  and  variety  of  the  Audiencia’s  duties,  the  records  of  colonial  history  show  that 
the  greater  part  of  the  time  was  spent  in  the  discussion  of  formalities,  in  grand  ceremonies 
and  an  extravagant  display  of  pompous  authority,  though  this  tendency  does  not  seem  to 
have  brought  any  adverse  criticism  from  the  higher  authority  of  Lima.  In  the  Memoria 
de  Los  I Ireyes,  or  viceroys’  report,  the  Audiencia  is  cordially  recommended  for  its  efficiency, 
the  Duke  of  Palata  writing  of  it:  “The  Audiencia  of  Charcas  ranks  next  to  that  of  Lima,  and 
is  above  all  the  others ; and  for  the  reason  that  it  is  usually  composed  of  ministers  who 
have  risen  through  other  tribunals,  it  has  the  most  distinguished  ability  in  government, 
and  in  eight  years  has  given  me  nothing  to  execute  or  to  amend.”  A more  intimate  view 
of  the  character  of  the  oidores  is  given  in  an  entertaining  picture  of  these  times,  very 
effectively  described: 

“Tlie  Audiencia  planted  its  royal  trident  in  the  sea  of  political  and  social  agitation.  The 
implacable  levies  of  the  mito,  the  great  traffic  of  the  mines  at  the  height  of  their  production, 
the  daily  demands  of  civil  society,  the  procedures  of  public  administration,  the  sanctity  of 
domestic  life,  the  property,  existence,  and  honor  of  individuals,  everything  passed  over  the 
Audiencia’s  palm,  sliding  from  it  like  falling  seed  that  nothing  can  stop  or  hinder.  Nothing 
was  so  inalterable  in  the  midst  of  alterations  as  the  Audiencia.  In  the  disturbances  that 
made  a sanguinary  path  for  the  first  footsteps  of  the  colony:  in  the  disputes  of  Basques 
and  Castilians — equally  illiterate  and  opulent — over  the  arms  of  the  city  of  Potosi;  in  those 
incessant  quarrels  among  e/ripeioiies,  mestizos,  and  criollos  who  peopled  the  cities  and  towns 


¥ 


JESUIT  CONVENT  TOWER  IN  POTOSf.  CeRRO  DE  POTOSf  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  IICEROYALTY 


39 


\ 

of  the  province  with  factions,  the  Audiencia  discharged  the  office  of  a severe  proconsul, 
whose  cohorts  always  subjugated,  never  pacified.  In  the  pursuit  of  its  judgments,  the 
furore  of  noisy  discords  from  all  directions  arrived  at  the  peaceful  city  that  served  as  its 
court  like  the  violent  winds  that  blow  over  mountains  and  plains  to  whirl  into  the  basin  of 
Lake  Titicaca  and  disturb  its  quiet  waters.  But  in  the  immunity  of  the  royal  canopy  of  his 
stone  palace  the  monarch  never  broke  down  tire  inviolable  law  of  his  tribunal,  and  neither 
from  the  vehement  shock  of  caste  nor  from  that  of  interest  did  his  tall  judicial  vara,  or 
sceptre,  come  out  shortened.  It  is  certain  that  in  the  chief  city  of  the  viceroys  the  Audiencia 
did  not  enjoy  the  predominance,  veneration,  or  impunity  of  the  oidurcs  in  La  Plata.  Here 
the  counsellor’s  robe  possessed  doubtless  some  of  the  virtues  of  a sacrament:  at  least,  it 
imprinted  on  the  soul  of  him  who  wore  it  an  ineffaceable  sign,  and  that  sign  was  arrogance. 
Oidor  and  haughty  grand  seigneur  were,  in  Alto  Peru,  one  and  the  same.  Woe  to  the 
lawyer,  litigant,  or  voter  who  incurred  the  anger  of  an  oidor!  Because  if  he  wished  to 
escape  from  abusive  reproofs,  suspension  from  office,  correctional  banishment  and  vexa- 
tions, it  would  be  best  for  him  to  go  far  away.  When  these  magnates  did  not  ride  to  the 
tribunal  in  chaises,  it  is  notorious  that  they  were  preceded  by  two  lictors,  so  as  to  flaunt  the 
toga  before  the  people  with  Roman  majesty.  The  passer-by  must  halt  in  their  presence, 
and  if  on  horseback  dismount  while  they  passed,  and  everybody  must  escort  the  satrap  to 
his  destination  at  a respectful  distance.” 

What  autocrats  they  were,  these  oidores  of  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas ! And  with  what 
splendor  they  moved  among  the  people,  in  whose  eyes  the  distant  figure  of  the  viceroy 
diminished  and  his  Catholic 
majesty  faded  to  the  vanishing 
point,  as  the  magnificent  “toga” 
passed,  its  folds  sweeping  over 
the  streets  that  belonged  as 
much  to  its  wearer  as  Spain 
belonged  to  the  king,  or  Lima 
to  the  viceroy!  The  extreme 
homage  paid  to  these  mediter- 
ranean despots  is  illustrated  in 
a clever  little  anecdote  which 
relates  how  a rich  and  aged 
lady  of  Chuquisaca,  wishing  at 
her  death  to  manifest  her  de- 
votion, left  in  her  testament  a 
legacy  of  four  thousand  pesos 
with  the  stipulation  that  it 
should  be  used  to  buy  an  oidor' s toga  for  the  Holy  Sacrament:  because,  she  explained, 
when  clothed  with  this  honor,  the  people  would  find  themselves  obliged  to  accompany 


40 


BOLIVIA 


the  viaticum,  whereas  without  it  very  few  would  do  so.  Then  came  the  puzzling  question : 
“ But  if  the  Holy  Sacrament,  decorated  with  the  oidor's  toga,  should  meet  another  oidor  on 
the  road,  to  which  should  the  retinue  make  its  reverend  obeisance?”  It  was  decided  that 
as  the  case  was  one  of  equal  rank,  obeisance  should  be  made  to  the  Holy  Sacrament,  having 
the  preference  accorded  to  age  1 Bolivian  wit  is  never  so  keen  as  when  pointing  a satire 
with  an  amusing  illustration,  and  this  little  story  is  worthy  of  its  author,  whoever  he  may  bel 
The  Audiencia  of  Charcas  found  its  most  arduous  duties  connected  with  the  demands 
from  the  mother  country  for  the  largest  possible  contributions  to  the  royal  treasury,  and  her 
equally  imperious  demands  for  protection  for  the  Indian  subjects  of  the  crown.  To  fulfil 
both  requirements  taxed  the  genius  of  the  wisest  of  his  Catholic  majesty’s  representatives. 
In  justice  to  the  Council  of  the  Indies,  it  must  be  said  that  constant  efforts  were  made  to 
ameliorate  the  condition  of  the  unfortunate  Indians,  but  they  were  effectively  nullified 
through  the  greed  for  gold  which  could  only  be  satisfied  by  increasing  the  tasks  of  these 
unhappy  slaves,  who  died  by  thousands  under  the  rigorous  system  of  the  mita.  The  miia 
was  established  by  the  greatest  of  the  viceroys  of  Peru,  Don  Francisco  de  Toledo,  Count  of 
Oropesa,  who  governed  from  1^69  to  1^81.  His  purpose  was  to  promote  the  most  rapid 
and  satisfactory  development  of  the  mines,  especially  those  of  Potosi,  and,  undoubtedly, 
also  to  improve  the  condition  both  of  the  colonists  and  the  Indians.  The  mita  was  a system 
of  forced  labor  by  which  all  Indians  between  eighteen  and  fifty  years  of  age  were  obliged 
to  work  in  the  mines  by  turns  during  a certain  period,  covering  in  all  about  five  or  six 
years  of  mita,  or  turn.  This  system  ameliorated  the  previous  condition  of  the  Indians  by 
establishing  a species  of  organized  discipline.  It  was  an  institution  of  Inca  origin,  as  the 
Quichua  word  mita  indicates.  The  Spaniards  only  modified  it,  giving  it  a more  restricted 
meaning,  as  under  the  rule  of  the  Incas  there  were  no  property  rights  for  the  individual,  while 
the  Spanish  code  gave  such  rights  and  exempted  from  the  mita  all  Indians  who  were  land- 
owners.  Indeed,  much  of  the  legislation  adopted  by  the  learned  Council  of  the  Indies  was 
an  adaptation  rather  than  a change  of  Inca  statutes.  But  in  their  reckless  application  of  the 
mita  the  Spaniards  made  it  a terrible  hardship  for  the  Indians,  and  the  cruelties  practised  upon 
them  caused  a rapid  diminution  in  their  number,  though  it  is  extremely  doubtful  whether  the 
mortality  reached  the  enormous  figures  named  by  some  writers.  The  Bolivian  historian 
Jose  Maria  Camacho  estimates  the  loss  of  life  “from  overwork  and  intemperance”  under 
the  mita  system  as  “ nearly  eight  millions.”  After  the  establishment  of  the  mita,  the  viceroy 
Toledo  abolished  the  system  of  cncomitaidas,  and  the  Indians  were  required  to  live  in 
districts,  or  communities,  in  which  each  of  them  received  a lot,  or  sayana,  to  cultivate:  he 
was  obliged  to  pay  tribute,  at  first  in  specie,  and  afterward  in  money.  Later,  this  tribute  was 
made  a per  capita  tax.  By  right  of  conquest,  the  Spanish  crown  had  declared  its  ownership 
of  all  the  lands  and  peoples  of  the  conquered  territory,  but  by  purchase  the  colonists  and 
the  natives  could  secure  deeds  to  lands  cultivated  by  them  outside  of  the  limits  of 
concessions.  The  Indians  were  not  excluded  from  this  privilege,  though  the  opportunities 
of  availing  themselves  of  it  were  rare. 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  UICEROYALTY 


41 


The  task  of  exploring  and  civilizing  the  vast  regions  to  the  north  and  east  of  the  Andes 
range — the  valleys  of  the  Amazon  and  its  tributaries — was  a slow  and  perilous  undertaking, 
owing  to  the  nature  of  the  climate  and  the  difficulties  of  transportation.  The  roads  built  by 
the  Incas  continued  to  be  the  only  highways  long  after  the  conquest:  and  in  the  territories 
of  Mojos,  Chiquitos,  and  the  Chaco,  many  exploring  expeditions  were  destroyed  by  the 
savages.  Mojos  was  the  favorite  objective  point  of  the  explorations,  on  account  of  the  many 
legends  about  its  mysterious 
“El  Dorado,”  supposed  to  be 
a hill  in  the  centre  of  a lake, 
where  all  the  treasures  of  the 
earth  were  to  be  found.  The 
owner  of  this  wonderful  place 
was  called  the  Gran  Sehor  de 
Mojos.  Its  inhabitants,  the 
Chunchos,  were  the  most  sav- 
age of  the  aborigines,  and  have 
remained  uncivilized  to  the 
present  day.  In  the  heart  of 
the  Chiquitos  territory,  the 
town  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la 
Sierra  was  founded  by  Nutlo 
de  Chavez  in  1^60.  Later,  it 
was  removed  to  its  present 
site,  in  G92. 

With  the  exception  of  the 
floating  population  that  fol- 
lowed the  exploiting  of  the 
mines,  the  colonists  lived  in 
cities,  which  were  founded  in 
rapid  succession.  In  1^70  the 
viceroy  gave  orders  for  the 
foundation  of  a town  in  the 
fertile  valley  of  Cochapampa, 
and  four  years  later  the  present 

city  of  Cochabamba  was  built  under  the  direction  of  Don  Sebastian  Barba  de  Padilla,  with 
the  name  of  Villa  de  Oropesa,  in  honor  of  the  greatest  viceroy  of  the  colonial  epoch.  The 
same  year  Tarija  was  founded  by  Don  Luis  de  Puentes,  with  the  name  of  San  Bernardo  de 
la  Frontera.  It  was  the  purpose  of  the  viceroy  to  provide  a centre  of  civilization  from  which 
to  carry  on  the  work  of  subduing  and  evangelizing  the  savage  tribes  of  the  Chichas, 
Chiriguanos,  Tobas,  Guaycurus,  and  other  hordes  of  the  Chaco  frontier.  Oruro,  named 


CHURCH  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO.  LA  PAZ. 


42 


BOLIVIA 


from  the  neighboring  hills  of  Uru-Uru,  was  founded  in  1604,  with  the  more  distinguished 
title  of  San  Felipe  de  Austria;  but  this  high-sounding  cognomen  was  ignored  completely, 
except  in  official  documents,  the  town  remaining  always  Oruro,  as  it  is  to-day.  It  became 
famous  for  its  silver  mines,  and  has  always  been  an  important  mining  town. 

For  two  centuries  after  the  conquest  all  interest  in  the  Spanish  colonies  was  centred  in 
the  mines.  The  Cerro  de  Potosi — as  the  mountain  is  called  which  poured  out  a constant 
stream  of  silver  so  abundant  that  the  ‘‘king’s  fifth”  in  one  year  amounted  to  more  than 
three  million  ducats — became  a synonym  for  opulence,  and  “ rich  as  Potosi  ” meant,  in  the 
seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries,  all  that  “rich  as  Croesus ” signified  to  the  ancients.  In 
the  general  rush  to  the  mines  every  other  resource  of  the  country  was  neglected,  although 
soon  after  the  conquest  sheep  and  cattle  were  imported  and  agriculture  was  developed  on  a 
small  scale,  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  colonists.  The  Indians  had  fared  little  better  on  the 
farms  than  in  the  mines,  under  the  atrocious  system  of  encouiiendas ; and  even  after  this  was 
abolished,  the  landed  proprietors  evaded  the  law  and  exacted  tribute  from  them,  on  their 
estates,  the  government  also  “farming  out”  the  Indians  to  landowners  under  the  provision 
which  required  one-seventh  of  the  male  population  to  work  for  the  state. 

As  was  the  case  in  all  the  Spanish  colonies  immediately  after  the  conquest,  the  tillage 
of  the  soil  became  more  particularly  the  occupation  of  the  religious  brotherhoods  who 
settled  in  the  new  countries  and  constituted  themselves  the  protectors  and  teachers  of 
the  Indians.  In  all  the  communities,  or  parcialidades,  into  which  the  Indian  population 
was  divided,  the  Church  of  Rome  was  represented  by  missionaries  of  the  various  orders, 
in  addition  to  the  ecclesiastical  authorities  of  the  government:  and  the  missions  established 
by  the  Jesuits,  Franciscans,  Dominicans,  and  other  orders  were  the  only  civilizing  agencies 
that  reached  the  savages  of  the  remote  interior. 

Historians  of  the  South  American  countries  have  never  yet  done  justice  to  the  noble 
work  accomplished  by  the  early  missionaries  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  in  behalf  of 
the  Indians.  It  is  easy  to  look  back  upon  their  labor  from  the  standpoint  of  twentieth 
century  development,  and  point  out  where  it  was  at  fault  and  how  the  results  failed  to 
realize  the  highest  purpose,  but  no  one  can  deny  the  proofs  of  earnest  zeal  and  devotion  for 
the  cause  of  Christianity  that  led  these  noble  “ pathfinders  ” of  the  Faith  to  bury  themselves 
in  the  wilds  of  an  unknown  land,  among  savages  who  put  little  value  on  human  life,  and 
under  the  dangerous  conditions  of  a tropical  climate  as  unhealthy  as  pest  and  fever  could 
make  it.  There  could  be  no  material  compensation  for  the  hardships  and  cares  endured,  and 
only  the  exalted  spirit  of  the  true  missionary  of  the  Cross  could  have  been  proof  against 
the  discouragements  and  disappointments,  the  loneliness  and  self-effacement  which  such  a 
life  inevitably  signified.  Later,  when  improved  conditions  lightened  somewhat  the  burden, 
and  a life  of  greater  comfort  was  possible,  the  missionary  spirit  seemed  to  lose  its  original 
zeal,  and  many  evils  crept  into  the  various  systems.  But,  on  the  whole,  the  Roman  Catholic 
missionary  may  claim  the  greatest  honor  for  his  important  share  in  the  Christianizing  of  the 
South  American  Indian. 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  VICEROYALTY 


43 


The  Jesuits  were  among  the  first  to  establish  their  missions  in  the  new  colony,  and 
chose  as  the  initial  field  of  their  labors  the  shores  of  Lake  Titicaca.  With  the  marvellous 
organizing  ability  that  characterized 
the  order  they  quickly  extended  the 
sphere  of  their  activity.  They  made 
a systematic  study  of  the  language 
of  the  Indians  and  prepared  diction- 
aries for  use  in  their  propaganda.  As 
early  as  1 5'8o,  while  the  art  of  printing 
was  still  in  its  infancy  and  the  print- 
ing press  a most  expensive  luxury, 
this  enterprising  order  was  provided 
with  a thorough  equipment  of  types 
and  machinery,  and  issued  its  own 
printed  books  and  documents.  The 
Franciscan  brotherhood  began  its 
labors  chiefly  among  the  Chunchos 
of  the  Beni,  and  the  Chiriguanos  of 
the  Chaco,  and  the  record  of  the  mis- 
sions of  Apolobamba  and  Tarija  show 
that  the  missionaries’  zeal  did  more 
than  the  Spanish  arms  to  effect  the 
conquest  of  these  provinces.  Litera- 
ture relating  to  the  history  of  these 
missions  is  limited,  though  Bishop 
Armentia,  of  La  Paz,  is  the  author  of 
several  interesting  works  on  the  missions  of  Apolobamba  in  the  departments  of  La  Paz  and  the 
Beni,  to  which  are  added  the  records  of  the  Franciscan  College  of  Tarija,  by  the  missionaries 
of  that  college,  giving  further  information  regarding  the  labors  of  Franciscan  and  other  orders 
in  this  field.  From  these  sources  are  obtained  glimpses  of  the  life  of  the  pioneers  of  truth  in 
the  wilds  of  the  New  World  that  show  wonderful  exainples  of  faith  and  patience.  Sometimes 
a whole  mission,  after  having  been  established  at  the  cost  of  many  lives,  w'ould  be  swept 
by  fever  or  plague  and  almost  totally  destroyed,  just  at  the  moment  wJien  it  seemed  most 
flourishing.  At  other  times  a sudden  uprising  of  savages  would  change  a quiet  pueblo  into 
a scene  of  carnage  and  death.  It  was  indeed  taking  their  lives  in  their  hands  in  those  days 
for  the  missionaries  to  undertake  the  spread  of  the  Gospel.  Yet  the  various  orders,  Jesuit, 
Franciscan,  Dominican,  and  Capuchin,  worked  zealously  and  persistently,  until  there  is 
to-day  hardly  an  Indian  c/io{j,  or  wigwam,  that  has  not  its  crucifix  and  the  image  of  the 
Santissima  Virf^cn.  So  thoroughly  have  the  missionaries  done  this  work  that  they  have 
interfered  greatly  with  the  progress  of  ethnologists  in  their  efforts  to  trace  the  beliefs  and 


TYPICAL  DOORWAY,  COLONIAL  PERIOD,  LA  PAZ. 


44 


BOLIVIA 


traditions  of  the  Indians  back  to  a period  earlier  than  that  of  Spanish  occupation.  These 
scientists  complain  that  there  is  hardly  a trace  of  Indian  lore  that  is  not  marked  with  the 
influence  of  the  missionaries’  teaching,  from  the  Caribbean  Sea  to  Cape  Horn,  and  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Nearly  all  the  grammars  and  dictionaries  in  existence, 
giving  instruction  in  the  languages  of  South  American  Indians,  have  been  written  by  the 
missionaries  of  those  regions,  or  by  learned  prelates  who  have  at  some  time  been  engaged 
in  work  among  them.  Probably  no  student  of  his  day  has  done  more  in  this  respect  than 
the  scholarly  bishop  already  mentioned,  who  has  contributed  articles  and  books  on  every 
subject  relating  to  the  mission  field  in  South  America.  His  grammars  and  dictionaries  of 
the  Quichua,  Aymara,  and  other  tongues  are  standard  works. 

While  missionaries  were  following  the  arms  of  Spain  into  the  forests  or  converting 
the  Indians  of  the  parcialidades  under  the  mita  regime,  the  welfare  of  the  Spanish  colonists 
in  the  cities  was  not  neglected.  The  magnificent  churches,  convents,  and  schools,  many  of 
which  still  remain  as  wonders  of  colonial  architecture,  testify  to  the  religious  spirit  that 
prevailed  everywhere.  Toward  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  and  in  the  beginning  of  the 
seventeenth  century  the  records  of  the  Church  shine  with  brilliant  lustre.  Three  saints 

were  added  to  the  calendar:  the  de- 
vout pilgrim  Francisco  Solano,  who, 
when  passing  through  Chuquisaca  in 
1^8^,  erected  the  four  crosses  that 
still  mark  the  roads  leading  out  of 
the  city;  the  venerable  Archbishop 
Toribio  of  Lima,  whose  good  deeds 
are  recounted  to  this  day  with  rever- 
ence in  the  City  of  the  Kings;  and 
Saint  Rose  of  Lima,  the  only  saint  of 
American  birth  and  origin.  La  Paz 
was  made  a cathedral  city  in  i6o^, 
also  Misque  in  the  same  year;  and 
Chuquisaca  became  the  seat  of  the 
archbishopric  of  La  Plata  in  1609. 

The  great  wealth  displayed  in  the 
colonial  churches,  their  massive  con- 
struction, exquisitely  carved  doors, 
and  richly  furnished  altars,  impress 
all  who  visit  them.  It  is  not  unusual 
to  find  in  these  old  churches  master- 
pieces of  art,  wood  carving  of  the 
most  elaborate  and  finished  character,  and  whole  altars,  as  well  as  their  candlesticks,  of  solid 
silver.  The  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  in  Sucre,  an  image  of  solid  gold,  is  covered  with  precious 


CONVENT  OF  SANTA  TERESA,  COCHABAMBA. 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  UICEROYALTY 


4? 

jewels  worth  a king’s  ransom.  The  old  doorway  of  the  convent  of  San  Francisco  in 
La  Paz,  and  of  that  of  San  Lorenzo  in  Potosi,  are  like  patterns  of  lacework  in  delicacy  of 
detail.  The  evidences  of  greatest  wealth 
are  seen  in  the  old  churches  of  Sucre  and 
Potosi,  as  it  was  in  these  cities  that  colo- 
nial fortunes  were  most,  easily  made. 

Sucre,  as  the  capital  of  Charcas  and  the 
archiepiscopal  see,  was  the  social  and 
political  metropolis,  while  Potosi  was  the 
centre  of  commercial  interest  as  the  local- 
ity of  the  great  silver  mines. 

All  through  the  earlier  years  of  the 
seventeenth  century  Potosi  was  the  scene 
of  sanguinary  struggles  between  the  Vi- 
cunas and  the  Vascongados,  who  were 
engaged  in  fighting  out  a feud  that  had 
begun  with  the  conquerors,  when  two 
opposing  factions  arrayed  themselves 
against  each  other  to  compete  for  political 
power.  The  Vascongados,  or  Basques, 
had  succeeded  in  securing  nearly  all  the 
public  offices;  and  the  Vicunas — a name 
given  to  the  Basques’  opponents,  the 
Castilians,  Andalusians,  and  Creoles,  who 
wore  caps  made  of  vicuna  wool  to  dis- 
tinguish their  party — revolted  against  the  unequal  division  of  honors  and  declared  war 
to  the  knife  against  their  rivals.  As  the  ranks  of  the  Vicunas  were  continually  reinforced 
by  Creole  natives,  this  war  gradually  assumed  the  character  of  a struggle  between  Span- 
iards and  native  Americans,  which  continued  for  a hundred  years  and  may  be  regarded 
as  one  of  the  influences  tending  toward  the  weakening  of  Spain’s  prestige  in  this  part 
of  her  colonial  possessions.  The  resentment  of  the  Vicunas  was  inflamed  by  the  evident 
disposition  of  the  high  Spanish  authorities  to  protect  the  Vascongados  in  their  increasing 
power.  The  leader  of  the  Vicunas,  Alonzo  Ibanez,  was  found  guilty  of  a conspiracy  to 
overthrow  the  royal  authority,  and  was  executed,  together  with  his  followers.  His  memory 
is  held  in  reverence  by  the  Bolivians  as  the  first  martyr  to  the  cause  of  independence 
in  America.  An  old-fashioned  sun-dial  in  the  pLifio  of  the  Mint  in  Potosi  marks  the 
spot  on  which  Ibanez  was  sacrificed  for  his  patriotism.  This  occurred  two  hundred 
years  before  Bolivia  gained  her  freedom  as  a nation,  but  it  marked  only  the  first 
of  a series  of  efforts  of  equal  boldness,  and,  alas!  of  equally  disastrous  results,  that 
succeeded  one  another  all  through  the  period  of  colonial  rule.  Some  of  these  rebellions 


PORTAL  OF  HOUSE  BUILT  BY  MARQUIS  DE  OTAVI  IN 

potosi',  showing  coat  of  arms. 


46 


BOLiyiA 


were  started  by  the  cholos,  of  mixed  Spanish  and  Indian  blood,  and  others  by  the  Indians, 
under  the  leadership  of  the  descendants  of  the  Incas.  In  every  case  the  origin  of  the  upris- 
ing was  an  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  authorities  to  oppress  still  further  the  lower  classes. 
About  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  cholos  of  La  Paz  revolted  under  Antonio 
Gallardo,  killed  the  corregidor  -indi  other  officials,  and,  with  the  watchword  “America  for  the 
Americans  1” — which  he  sounded  a hundred  and  fifty  years  before  Monroe  caught  the 
inspiration, — led  a “liberating  army”  to  the  attack  of  Puno,  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Titicaca.  He  was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Puno,  and  his  followers  were  hanged. 

The  eighteenth  century  was  as  prolific  of  revolts  as  the  seventeenth  had  been,  and 
they  were  less  easily  quelled.  Not  all  the  power  of  the  viceroy,  supplemented  by  the 
Audiencia  of  Charcas,  could  repress  the  indignation  of  the  people  when  they  were  goaded 
beyond  endurance  by  injustices  put  upon  them ; and  when  an  order  came  to  Cochabamba 
that  the  mcsti{os,  or  cholos,  were  to  be  included  with  the  Indians  in  the  payment  of  tribute, — 
although  it  was  afterward  proved  to  be  a false  report, — the  Cochabambans  united  in  rebellion 
under  the  leadership  of  Alejo  Calatayud  and  swore  to  “exterminate  the  Spaniards.”  The 
municipality  called  a meeting,  and  proposed  a settlement  of  the  difficulty:  and,  as  a result,  it 
was  agreed  that  the  Creoles,  the  natives  of  the  country,  should  be  given  preference  in 
public  offices  and  that  no  Spaniard  should  be  permitted  to  act  as  corregidor.  Calatayud  was 
afterward  treacherously  taken  prisoner  at  a banquet  given  in  his  honor,  and  put  to  a cruel 
death.  These  events  coming  to  the  ears  of  the  viceroy,  he  immediately  took  steps  to  avoid 
future  insurrections,  wisely  foreseeing  the  danger  to  Spanish  power  in  such  determined  and 
persistent  outbreaks. 

But  the  spirit  of  independence  had  illumined  the  minds  and  hearts  of  the  oppressed, 
and  it  was  not  an  easy  matter  for  the  authorities  to  extinguish  it.  A few  years  after  the 
death  of  Calatayud  a conspiracy  was  discovered  in  Oruro,  headed  by  Juan  Vela  de  Cordova, 
who  had  issued  a nuiiiiflcsto,  or  circular,  to  all  the  neighboring  provinces,  urging  them  to 
“throw  off  the  Spanish  yoke.”  The  conspirators  were  condemned  to  death;  but  their 
execution  served  only  to  increase  sympathy  with  their  cause,  and  the  tide  of  insurrection 
swept  into  a deeper  and  wider  channel.  The  names  of  Ibanez,  Gallardo,  Calatayud,  and 
Vela  de  Cordova  are  revered  in  Bolivia  as  precursors  of  the  American  Independence.  The 
last  of  them  was  executed  more  than  a quarter  of  a century  before  the  episode  of  the 
Boston  Tea  Party,  which  initiated  the  War  of  Independence  in  the  United  States. 

The  impossibility  of  centralizing  at  Lima  all  the  administration  of  the  South  American 
colonies  became  so  evident  to  the  Spanish  government  before  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century  that  steps  were  taken  to  divide  these  possessions  into  groups;  and  in  1740  the 
viceroyalty  of  Bogota  was  created,  followed  in  1776  by  the  creation  of  the  viceroyalty  of 
Buenos  Aires.  The  Audiencia  of  Charcas  was  separated  from  Lima  and  attached  to  Buenos 
Aires;  so  that,  from  this  time  until  the  establishment  of  the  republic,  Bolivian  history  was 
identified  with  that  of  Argentina,  which  hitherto  had  had  no  great  political  signifcance  and 
was  practically  unknown  to  commerce  except  tlmough  its  small  seaport,  Buenos  Aires. 


ALTO  PERU  UNDER  THE  UICEROYALTY 


47 


In  1782  the  territory  of  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas  was  divided  into  four  provinces,  Chuquisaca, 
La  Paz,  Potosi,  and  Santa  Cruz.  Chuquisaca  covered  the  jurisdiction  of  the  archbishopric 
of  La  Plata:  La  Paz  included,  in  addition  to  the  territory  of  the  bishopric,  the  provinces  of 
Lampa,  Carabaya,  and  Azangaro,  which  were  afterward  annexed  to  the  Audiencia  of  Cuzco 
and  now  belong  to  Peru;  Potosi  was  formed  by  the  present  department  of  tliat  name, 
together  with  those  of  Atacama — wliich  now  belongs  to  Chile — and  Tarija;  and  Santa  Cruz 
comprised  the  present  departments  of  Cochabamba  and  the  Beni,  in  addition  to  what  is 
now  its  own.  Mojos  and  Chiquitos  remained  under  the  direct  jurisdiction  of  the  Audiencia 
of  Charcas.  The  four  provinces  were  ruled  by  intendcutes  named  by  the  king,  and  their  sub- 
divided paiiidos  were  governed  by  sub-delegates,  appointed  by  the  viceroy  on  the  nomination 
of  the  intend  elites,  for  a term  of 
five  years.  The  municipali- 
ties, or  cabitdos,  composed  of 
aldermen  and  presided  over  by 
the  governor,  or  jefe  politico, 
exercised  the  same  functions 
as  the  municipal  councils  of 
the  present  day. 

The  viceroyalty  of  Buenos 
Aires  had  jurisdiction  over  the 
territory  of  the  present  re- 
publics of  Bolivia,  Paraguay, 

Uruguay,  and  Argentina.  The 
first  viceroy  was  Don  Pedro 
de  Zeballos  y Cortez,  followed 
two  years  later  by  the  Vice- 
roy Don  Juan  Jose  de  Vertiz, 
under  whose  rule  occurred 
the  last  and  most  powerful 
revolts  in  the  history  of  the  colonial  government.  In  1780  the  Catari  brothers,  three  Indians 
of  Alto  Peru  who  had  suffered  injustice  at  the  hands  of  the  governor  of  their  community, 
rose  in  revolt,  and,  securing  a large  following  in  Charcas,  Oruro,  Cochabamba,  and  La  Paz, 
attacked  the  government.  A f erce  struggle  took  place  between  the  forces  sent  out  by  the 
Audiencia  and  the  desperate  Indians.  The  Audiencia  linally  offered  a premium  of  two 
thousand  pesos  for  the  head  of  each  of  the  Cataris,  and  they  were  delivered  up  through 
the  treachery  of  their  own  companions. 

But  this  was  not  the  end.  About  this  time  an  Indian  outbreak  occurred  in  Cuzco,  under 
the  leadership  of  Tupac-Amaru,  a descendant  of  the  Incas,  who  sent  messages  to  the  Cataris 
to  join  him.  The  messages  fell  into  the  hands  of  an  Indian  of  Ayoayo,  near  La  Paz,  who 
took  up  the  cause  under  the  name  of  Tupac-Catari,  and  secured  a following  of  eighty 


PANTHEON  OF  SAN  BERNARDO.  POTOSf,  OLD  COLONIAL  CEMETERY. 


48 


BOLIVIA 


thousand  men,  with  whom  he  marched  on  La  Paz,  besieging  the  city  and  holding  it  at  his 
mercy  during  more  than  three  months,  until  a force  from  the  Audiencia  came  to  its  relief 
and  the  besiegers  were  obliged  to  retire.  Meantime,  a brother  of  Tupac-Amaru,  with  an 
army  of  fourteen  thousand  men,  laid  siege  to  Sorata,  and  destroyed  it,  with  twenty  thousand 
inhabitants,  by  breaking  a dike  that  he  had  built  to  dam  the  streams  descending  from  the 
summit  of  Mount  Sorata,  thus  flooding  the  town.  This  was  the  last  effort  of  the  Inca’s 
unhappy  people  to  secure  their  freedom ; it  cost  the  lives  of  about  fifty  thousand  of  their 
oppressors  and  more  than  that  number  among  themselves.  The  same  year  a clwlo,  Sebas- 
tian Pagador,  led  a popular  uprising  in  Oruro,  but  after  a few  promising  successes  he  was 
met  by  defeat  and  suffered  the  extreme  penalty  with  torture.  The  close  of  the  eighteenth 
century  witnessed  events  rapidly  approaching  the  inevitable  climax. 

Throughout  the  entire  history  of  colonial  rule  in  Alto  Peru  runs  the  record  of  struggles  for 
freedom.  It  was  an  unequal  fight,  often  amounting  to  little  more  than  a determined  protest 
against  the  injustice  of  a powerful  master.  But  resistance  and  revolt  under  oppression  are 
unmistakable  signs  of  latent  force,  and  are  far  more  hopeful  than  the  dull  submission  that 
marks  the  truly  enslaved.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  condition  of  the  people  under  the 
stern  system  of  Spanish  government,  an  inherent  dignity  was  manifested  even  among  those 
of  humblest  origin  in  their  persistent  efforts  to  secure  their  inalienable  rights.  Every  lover 
of  human  liberty  must  feel  a glow  of  pride  in  the  splendid  courage  that  could  face  such 
fearful  odds  as  arrogant  Spain  presented  to  her  downtrodden  subjects  in  Alto  Peru;  and  the 
pen  must  be  tipped  with  divine  fire  to  do  justice  to  the  records  of  heroism  that  culminated 
in  the  sacrifice  of  the  immortal  “promartyrs  of  the  Independence.” 


ENTRANCE  TO  CATHEDRAL,  SUCRE. 


*%■  S ■ 


*».  » 
L ■ 


THE  BATTALION  CAMPERO  ON  PARADE  IN  SUCRE. 


CHAPTER  III 

HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 

Alto  Peru  alone,  of  all  the  South  American  colonies,  the  battle  cry 
of  freedom  was,  from  first  to  last,  an  unequivocal  and  fearless 
declaration  of  independence.  It  is  significant  of  the  character 
and  sentiment  of  the  whole  people  that  such  an  audacious 
stand  was  possible  from  the  beginning.  In  all  the  other  South 
American  countries,  loyalty  to  King  Ferdinand  of  Spain,  who 
had  been  deposed  by  the  Bonapartes,  was  the  pretext  for 
resisting  the  authority  of  the  viceroys.  Even  when  the  leaders 
of  the  revolution  themselves  favored  complete  emancipation 
they  were  obliged  to  disguise  their  ultimate  purpose,  as  the 
masses  were  still  too  apathetic  or  too  fearful  to  look  upon 
the  power  of  Spain  as  other  than  inevitable  and  eternal.  They 
could  not  be  brought  so  suddenly  to  strike  for  absolute  free- 
dom. It  was  the  despair  of  the  Venezuelan  patriot  Miranda 
that  his  beloved  countrymen  would  not  catch  the  inspiration  of  his  noble  purpose,  and 
in  Buenos  Aires,  Chile,  Quito,  it  was  first  the  declaration  of  loyalty  to  the  Spanish  crown 
and  not  a demand  for  independence  that  brought  about  the  overthrow  of  the  viceroys  and 
the  establishment  of  the  patriot  Juntas  de  Gobierno. 

Alto  Peru  probably  suffered  more  than  any  other  colony  of  Spain  from  injustice  and 
oppression.  Although  its  mines  had  yielded  fabulous  wealth  to  the  royal  treasury,  it  wars 
the  least  favored  of  the  Spanish  provinces,  the  most  neglected,  and  its  people  were  the  most 
barbarously  treated.  The  cruel  system  of  the  iiiita  had  so  depopulated  the  Indian  race  that 
the  few  who  remained  were  obliged  to  do  more  than  human  strength  could  endure  in 
order  to  make  up  for  the  scarcity  of  laborers.  In  common  with  the  rest  of  the  colonies,  it 
was  prohibited  to  Alto  Peru  to  cultivate  anything  that  was  grown  in  the  mother  country: 
commerce  with  foreign  countries  was  forbidden ; only  Spaniards  or  their  children  could  hold 
public  office;  merchandise  was  sold  to  the  Indians  by  the  coircgidorcs,  to  whom  they  were 

Q 


DON  ANTONIO  SUCRE, 

■GRAN  MARISCAL  DE  AYACUCHO." 


BOLIVIA 


^2 

always  in  debt;  instruction  was  little  more  than  a name,  as  no  books  were  allowed  in  the 
country  except  books  of  devotion.  A Bolivian  writer  on  the  history  of  his  country  says: 
“ The  natives  of  the  country  were  excluded  from  all  posts  of  honor  and  profit  except  when 
they  were  able  to  purchase  them  at  the  cost  of  large  sums  of  money;  so  that  out  of  one 
hundred  and  seventy  viceroys,  only  four  were  born  in  the  country;  of  six  hundred  and  two 
captains-general,  or  presidents,  fourteen  were  American ; of  five  hundred  and  fifty  bishops, 
five  hundred  were  Europeans;  political  liberty  was  excluded  from  our  soil.”  In  fact,  the 
last  thought,  apparently,  which  the  Spanish  authorities  gave  to  this  province  was  that  which 
concerned  its  well  being,  at  least,  until  later  years  of  colonial  rule,  when  the  warning  given 
to  Spain  by  the  example  of  the  British  colonies  in  North  America  suggested  the  necessity 
for  reforms,  and  a new  commercial  regulation  was  put  in  force,  thirty-three  ports  were 
opened  to  foreign  trade,  and  greater  privileges  were  granted  the  natives  of  the  country  than 
formerly.  But  the  reform  came  too  late.  Even  the  concession  granted  by  the  Council  of 
Regency  in  i8io  to  permit  the  colonies  to  send  representatives  to  the  Cortes  could  no 
longer  stay  the  current  of  public  opinion. 

Everyone  is  familiar  with  the  story  of  Napoleon’s  invasion  of  Spain  and  the  capture 
and  imprisonment  of  King  Ferdinand  in  1808,  when  Napoleon’s  brother,  Joseph  Bonaparte, 
was  placed  on  the  Spanish  throne,  and  a Council  of  Regency  at  Cadiz  governed  the  affairs 
of  the  colonies.  The  effort  of  King  Ferdinand’s  sister,  the  Princess  Carlota  de  Braganza,  to 
usurp  his  dominions  in  America  is  only  of  interest  in  the  history  of  the  revolution  of  Alto 
Peru  because  it  furnished  a pretext  for  the  decisive  steps  finally  taken  by  the  patriots  to 
carry  out  a plan  of  campaign  which  they  had  been  preparing  in  secret  for  a long  time.  An 
ambitious  agent  of  the  princess,  Don  Jose  Manuel  Goyeneche,  who  had  been  sent  on  a 
mission  to  interview  the  South  American  authorities  in  her  favor,  visited  Chuquisaca  in  1809, 
and  succeeded  in  winning  the  president  of  the  Audiencia  and  the  bishop  of  the  diocese 
as  allies  of  the  princess.  The  right  of  the  oidores  to  a voice  in  this  matter  was  ignored, 
and  those  who  declared  their  opposition  were  promptly  ordered  to  prison.  Though  the 
order  was  fulfilled  in  the  case  of  only  one  of  them,  and  the  president  was  dismissed 
from  office  and  imprisoned  for  his  share  in  the  affair,  the  patriots  saw  in  this  event  an 
opportunity  to  spread  the  gospel  of  freedom  more  openly,  and  a few  devoted  apostles 
set  out  to  make  a propaganda  of  liberty  throughout  the  country.  Among  them  were  the 
intrepid  leaders  of  the  revolution  which  was  installed  the  following  year  in  Buenos  Aires, 
Cornelio  Saavedra,  who  became  president  of  the  junta  there,  Bernardo  Monteagudo,  and 
Manuel  AJoreno. 

The  revolution  inaugurated  on  the  plateau  of  Alto  Peru  on  the  memorable  i6th  of 
July,  1809, — the  echoes  of  which  will  not  cease  to  vibrate  in  the  heart  of  the  Bolivian  nation 
as  long  as  a patriot  lives  to  love  his  native  land, — was  not  the  result  of  a sudden  impulse, 
but  the  natural  outcome  of  deliberate  and  persistent  determination.  For  years  the  leaven 
had  been  working,  until  there  was  not  a pueblo  whose  inhabitants  were  ignorant  of  the 
approaching  crisis  or  unwilling  to  fight  for  the  cause.  In  their  various  uprisings  throughout 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


^3 


the  whole  period  of  colonial  rule,  the  people  had  been  unconsciously  preparing  to  initiate 
one  of  the  greatest  patriotic  movements  in  the  history  of  modern  times.  With  the  first 
years  of  the  nineteenth  century,  definite  indications  of  the  tendency  of  affairs  began  to 
appear:  and  from  memoirs  written  during  that  period  it  has  been  proved  that  as  early 
as  1798  the  inhabitants  of  La  Paz  “meditated  the  independence  of  the  whole  continent,  and 
communicated  this  project  to  various  cities  of  the  kingdom,  in  every  one  of  which  it  found 
patriots  ready  to  undertake  the  enterprise.” 

La  Paz  was  singularly  fitted  to  be  the  theatre  of  the  opening  scene  in  this  drama  of 
liberty.  Remote  from  the  chief  seat  of  Spanish  authority,  out  of  close  range  of  the 
Audiencia’s  power,  the  spirit  of  independence  had  been  fostered  by  the  tolerance,  if  not 


CROWDS  THRONGING  COUNTRY  ROADS  ON  THEIR  WAY  TO  JOIN  A PATRIOTIC  CELEBRATION  IN  LA  PAZ. 


actual  complicity,  of  its  governor,  in  whose  house  members  of  the  revolutionary  clubs  from 
various  parts  of  the  country  were  frequently  entertained.  These  clubs  were  the  organizing 
headquarters  of  the  patriots  in  Chuquisaca,  La  Paz,  Potosi,  Cochabamba,  and  other  cities, 
and  it  was  their  combined  effort  which  installed  the  revolution  in  La  Paz,  by  the  issuing,  in 
the  name  of  the  Junta  Tuitiva,  of  a proclamation  which  clearly  shows  the  object  and  scope 
of  the  patriots’  programme. 

The  history  of  the  revolution  of  La  Paz  displays  constant  evidence  of  the  energy,  ability, 
and  patriotic  ardor  of  its  chief,  the  president  of  the  Junta  Tuitiva,  Don  Pedro  Domingo  Murillo, 
the  first  of  the  “promartyrs  of  the  Independence.”  The  events  of  this  revolution,  which 
was  so  important  in  the  annals  of  the  Bolivian  nation,  as  the  spark  that  ignited  the  conti- 
nent in  a flame  of  patriotic  war,  have  been  recorded  by  one  of  Bolivia’s  foremost  writers. 


BOLiyiA 


?4 

Don  Jose  Rosendo  Gutierrez,  from  whose  gifted  pen  the  story  appears,  with  all  the  charm 
that  a graceful  literary  style  lends  to  the  relation  of  glorious  episodes. 

The  important  crisis,  so  long  awaited,  came  at  seven  o’clock  in  the  evening  of 
July  1 6,  1809.  The  conspirators,  at  whose  head  were  Murillo,  Indaburu,  and  Graneros, 
took  possession  of  the  quartel  and  imprisoned  the  governor.  Assembled  in  open  Cabildo, 
Drs.  Gregorio  Garcia  Lanza,  Juan  Bautista  Sagarnaga,  and  Basilio  Catacora  were  named 
representatives  of  the  people  and  admitted  and  recognized  as  such.  The  first  act  was  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  which  ran:  “In  the  noble  and  valorous  city  of  Our  Lady  of 
La  Paz,  at  eight  o’clock  at  night,  on  the  i6th  of  July,  1809,  assembled  in  the  Salon  of  the 
Cabildo,  the  undersigned,  in  the  name  of  the  people,  declare  and  swear  to  defend  with  their 
blood  and  fortune  the  independence  of  the  country.’’  The  signers  constituted  themselves 
a Junta  Tuitiva,  of  which  Pedro  Domingo  Murillo  was  elected  president.  It  was  organized  as  a 
separate  body  from  the  Cabildo,  in  this  way  avoiding  the  confusion  from  which  the  Buenos 
Aires  junta  suffered  later  through  its  ill-defined  relation  to  that  corporation. 

The  Junta  Tuitiva  of  La  Paz  macJe  the  first  effort  in  South  America  toward  democratic 
government  in  accordance  with  republican  ideas.  Its  laws  were  inspired  by  motives  of 
democracy  and  brotherhood:  and  one  of  its  first  acts  was  to  give  to  the  race  which  had  been 
disinherited  by  the  conqueror  a voice  in  the  new  government,  by  appointing  an  Indian  to  the 
junta  from  each  district.  Perpetual  alliance  was  sworn  to  between  the  European  Spaniards 
and  the  Americans.  Its  proclamation  is  a proof  of  the  courage  and  sincerity  of  its  authors: 

“ Until  now  we  have  tolerated  a kind  of  exile  in  the  very  bosom  of  our  own  country; 
we  have  seen  with  indifference  for  more  than  three  centuries  our  primitive  liberty  submitted 
to  the  despotism  and  tyranny  of  an  unjust  usurper,  who,  degrading  us  below  human  kind, 
has  reputed  us  to  be  savages  and  looked  upon  us  as  slaves ; we  have  kept  a silence  very 
like  the  stupidity  which  was  attributed  to  us,  suffering  with  tranquillity  that  the  merit  of  the 
Americans  should  be  always  a sure  presage  of  their  humiliation  and  their  ruin.  It  is  high 
time,  then,  to  shake  off  a yoke  so  fatal  to  our  happiness.  It  is  high  time  to  organize  a new 
system  of  government,  founded  on  the  interest  of  this  our  country,  which  has  been  so 
depressed  by  the  spurious  politics  of  Madrid.  It  is  high  time,  in  short,  to  raise  the  standard 
of  liberty  in  these  unfortunate  colonies,  acquired  without  the  least  title  and  conserved  with 
the  greatest  injustice  and  tyranny.’’ 

Commenting  on  the  proclamation  of  the  junta,  Sehor  Gutierrez  says:  “This  was  not  all 
of  the  programme  of  July.  If  there  had  been  nothing  more  than  the  document  mentioned, 
the  aspiration  toward  independence  would  have  been  reduced  to  a mere  insurrection.  But 
the  programme  of  emancipation  came  united  with  the  social  reorganization  of  the  continent. 
It  insinuated  the  ideas  of  democracy  and  the  civil  constitution.  The  programme  of  July 
was  not  only  the  despcdida  of  the  day  previous : the  placing  of  the  cornerstone  in  the 
edifice  of  the  day  following.” 

The  sad  history  of  the  unequal  fight  between  the  few  heroic  patriots  and  the  trained 
army  sent  to  meet  them  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru:  the  unfortunate  quarrels  between  the 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


revolutionary  leaders  at  a moment  wlien  united  strength  was  indispensable:  the  antag- 
onism of  the  Bishop  of  La  Paz,  whose  anathemas  frightened  the  superstitious  Indians 
and  half-breeds  out  of  the  patriots’  ranks;  all  the  events  that  conspired  to  bring  about 
the  disastrous  defeat,  capture,  and  final  execution  of  Murillo  and  his  followers,  only  serve 
to  show  what  a bitter  struggle  was  to  be  expected  before  final  victory  could  be  hoped 


GENERAL  PEDRO  DOMINGO  MURILLO,  THE  FATHER  OF  BOLIVIAN  INDEPENDENCE. 


for.  But  the  promartyrs  “ blazed  the  trail  ” and  opened  a pathway  toward  liberty  which 
would  later  direct  the  eager  footsteps  of  millions.  When  the  patriot  Murillo,  humble  of 
origin,  but  of  great  intelligence  and  a noble  heart,  said  his  farewell  from  the  scaffold 
on  January  29,  1810,  exclaiming,  in  the  words  of  another  martyr:  “The  torch  which  I 
have  lighted  shall  never  be  extinguished,’’  he  made  a prophecy  which  time  has  amply 
justified  and  verified. 


^6 


BOLiyiA 


Four  months  after  the  death  of  Murillo,  the  patriots,  Saavedra,  Monteagudo,  Moreno,  and 
others,  who  had  gone  from  Chuquisaca,  Cochabamba,  and  Potosi  to  stir  up  the  revolution 
in  Buenos  Aires  and  secure  aid  for  their  countrymen,  had  an  army  already  equipped  and  on 
the  march  to  Alto  Peru.  With  General  Cornelio  Saavedra  as  president,  the  Buenos  Aires 
junta  had  been  organized,  the  viceroy  deposed,  and  a strong  revolutionary  party,  in  which 
General  Belgrano  and  other  Argentine  leaders  were  prominent,  had  pledged  itself  to  lend 
assistance  to  continue  the  fight  so  heroically  begun  on  the  heights  of  La  Paz.  Undaunted 
by  the  brutal  message  sent  to  his  Bolivian  general  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru,  “ that  the  Amer- 
icans had  been  born  to  be  slaves  and  to  vegetate  in  obscurity  and  depression,”  the  auxiliary 
army  from  Buenos  Aires,  under  the  command  of  Balcarce,  Diaz  Velez,  and  Castelli,  advanced 
six  thousand  strong  to  meet  the  viceroy’s  troops  under  Nieto,  Cordova,  and  Basagoitia  on 
the  field  of  Suipacha.  After  an  hour  of  hard  fighting  the  patriots  won  the  day,  and  the 
royalist  leaders  were  shot,  to  avenge  the  cruelty  shown  the  year  before  to  the  La  Paz 
patriots,  when  eighty-six  of  their  number  were  put  to  death  or  exiled  to  celebrate  the 
victory  over  Murillo.  Meantime,  a revolution  in  Cochabamba  had  resulted  in  a triumph  for 
the  patriots:  and  the  leaciers,  Manuel  Esteban  Arze  and  Melchor  Guzman  Quiton  marched 
on  Oruro  with  a force  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  men,  meeting  the  royalists  at  Aroma 
and  completely  defeating  them.  This  was  the  first  patriot  victory  on  the  Bolivian  Plateau, 
and  it  was  after  this  battle  that  the  Buenos  Aires  Gazette  wrote:  “Alto  Peru  will  be  free 
because  Cochabamba  wills  it  so.”  The  royalist  forces  sent  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru  to 
combat  the  revolutionists  in  Alto  Peru  and  Argentina  were  under  the  command  of  the  same 
Goyeneche  who  had  treacherously  sought  to  overthrow  the  existing  authority  in  favor 
of  the  Princess  of  Braganza.  It  was  by  his  orders  that  the  wholesale  slaughter  of  the 
vanquished  had  taken  place  in  La  Paz  in  1809,  and  it  was  his  ignoble  part  to  bring  defeat 
and  disaster  to  the  auxiliary  army  by  violating  an  armistice  of  forty  days  and  suddenly 
invading  the  camp  at  Guaqui  on  June  20,  1811.  The  patriots  were  forced  to  retreat,  the 
Cochabamba  cavalry,  under  Francisco  del  Rivero,  coming  to  the  rescue  too  late  to  save  the 
situation.  The  auxiliary  army  was  broken  up,  Castelli  and  Balcarce  retired  to  Chuquisaca, 
and  Diaz  Velez  joined  Rivero  later  in  Cochabamba.  Goyeneche  pursued  his  advantage  as  far 
as  Cochabamba,  where,  by  great  superiority  in  number  and  military  training,  his  troops  were 
able  to  defeat  the  inexperienced  and  poorly  armed  inhabitants.  His  victory  was  celebrated 
with  crime  and  rapine  for  the  space  of  three  days,  after  which  a military  tribunal  was  held 
to  punish  the  revolutionists,  many  of  whom  were  condemned  to  death.  Meantime,  a 
second  auxiliary  army  from  Buenos  Aires,  under  the  command  of  General  Belgrano,  met 
the  royalists  at  Tucuman,  September  24,  1812,  and  again  at  Salta,  February  20,  1813,  com- 
pletely defeating  them  in  both  engagements,  and  obliging  their  leader,  Pio  Tristan,  to  swear 
“never  again  to  take  up  arms  against  the  patriots.”  Goyeneche  having  satiated  his  taste 
for  cruelty  in  Cochabamba  set  out  for  Potosi,  but  on  learning  of  the  approacli  of  Belgrano’s 
army,  he  turned  his  four  thousand  troops  hastily  toward  Oruro,  and  asked  his  retirement. 
The  viceroy  sent  General  Joaquin  Pezuela  to  take  Goyeneche’s  place. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


The  auxiliary  army,  stimulated  by  victory,  advanced  toward  Oruro  to  engage  Pezuela’s 
forces  and  secure  a stronghold  for  the  patriots  on  the  plateau,  but,  taken  at  a disadvan- 
tage, it  was  defeated  after  stubborn  fighting  at  Vilcapugio  and  Ayuma.  Pursued  by 
Pezuela,  Belgrano  was  forced  to  retreat  beyond  the  Argentine  border  and  once  more  the 
royalists  held  complete  sway  in  Alto  Peru.  The  “reign  of  terror’’  which  followed  was 
so  ruthless  that  thousands  of  patriots  fled  to  Argentina  to  escape  the  royalist  vengeance. 
Yet  the  spirit  of  revolution  was  not  subdued,  and  in  the  midst  of  defeat,  persecution, 
and  death,  an  ardent  patriot  of  the  south,  Don  Juan  Antonio  Alvarez  de  Arenales,  assem- 
bling the  remnant  of  the  defeated  army  of  Ayuma,  marched  on  to  Cochabamba  and 
Santa  Cruz,  and  retiring  to  Vallegrande,  succeeded  in  organizing  an  army  of  four  thousand 
strong.  Pezuela  sent  Don  Joaquin  Blanco  to  meet  Arenales  and  an  engagement  took 
place  on  the  field  of  La  Florida,  resulting  in  an  overwhelming  victory  for  the  patriots. 
May  12,  1814.  Blanco  died  on  the  battlefield.  But,  although  the  news  of  the  victory  at 
La  Florida  was  encouraging,  it  was  not  sufficient  to  make  up  for  the  disastrous  defeats  of 
Belgrano’s  army. 

To  a people  less  tenacious  of  purpose,  the  apparent  hopelessness  of  the  situation,  after 
the  battle  of  Ayuma,  would  have  brought  despondency;  but  the  valiant  heroes  who  held 
freedom  worth  undying  effort,  were  not  to  be  turned  aside  from  their  purpose  by  defeat. 
When  they  could  no  longer  march  with  an  army  into  the  field,  they  formed  themselves 
into  patriot  bands  all  over  the  country  and  carried  on  a system  of  guerrilla  warfare  that 
harassed  the  enemy  on  all  sides.  Indomitable  warriors,  they  set  up  the  standard  of  their 
“ Republiquetas,”  as  Bartolome  Mitre  calls  them,  in  the  canons  of  Ayopaya  and  Omasuyos 
to  the  north ; in  Chayanta,  which  dominated  the  routes  between  Oruro,  Cochabamba,  and 
Chuquisaca;  in  Mizque,  surrounding  Cochabamba  and  communicating  with  Santa  Cruz 
and  Vallegrande:  in  Cinti  and  Porco,  extending  to  Tarija  and  the  Chaco.  In  each  of  these 
guerrilla  centres  there  were  innumerable  small  bands  led  by  various  chiefs,  all  more  or  less 
under  the  guidance  of  a few  principals,  whose  names  are  honored  by  posterity  for  the 
splendid  records  of  bravery  they  perpetuate.  In  the  north  were  Don  Jose  Miguel  Lanza 
and  the  indomitable  Muhecas;  in  the  central  districts,  Arenales  and  Arze:  in  the  east, 
Warnes  and  Mercado ; and  in  the  south  the  valorous  Padilla,  the  brave  Camargo,  Zarate,  and 
Betanzos.  After  reading  the  story  of  their  skilful  art  of  war,  their  unwavering  courage 
and  unflinching  patriotism,  one  cannot  help  deploring  the  circumstances  which  prevented 
their  combining  in  the  open  field  to  overthrow  the  enemy  whom  they  so  continually 
harassed  and  outwitted.  Even  their  defeats  shed  glory  on  the  national  spirit,  undaunted  in 
the  face  of  death,  unconquered  on  the  scaffold.  Mitre  extols  the  gneniUcros  in  unmeasured 
terms,  and  the  Chilean  historian,  Sotomayor  Valdez,  says:  “Out  of  the  one  hundred  and 
two  leaders,  more  or  less  obscure,  only  nine  survived  the  fifteen  years’  struggle  which 
followed  the  defeat  at  Viloma  of  the  third  auxiliary  army,  commanded  by  General  Rondeau, 
on  November  29,  1815'.  The  remaining  ninety-three  perished  in  the  battlefield  or  on  the 
gallows,  and  there  was  not  a single  capitulation.’’ 


;8 


BOLiyM 


One  of  the  most  renowned  of  the  guerrilla  chiefs  was  Don  Manuel  Ascension  Padilla, 
whose  military  genius  and  devoted  patriotism  were  unsurpassed.  He  was  highly  esteemed 
by  General  Belgrano  for  his  services  to  the  auxiliary  army,  and  by  Don  Esteban  Arze,  who 
conferred  on  him  the  title  of  commaiidantc.  Dr.  Valentin  Abecia,  in  an  interesting  biography 
of  this  guerrilla  chief,  compares  him  to  Morelos  of  Mexico,  and  regards  him  as  one  of  the 
greatest  figures  among  the  heroes  of  the  Independence,  “a  hero  with  the  soul  of  a child  and 
the  heart  of  a lion.”  And  no  one  thinks  of  the  warrior  without  at  once  calling  to  mind  the 
noble  woman  who  fought  by  his  side,  Doha  Juana  de  Padilla,  his  devoted  and  beautiful 

wife.  “The  Padillas ’’are  enshrined 
among  the  dearest  memories  of  the 
long  fight  for  freedom  in  Alto  Peru; 
and  if  “Don  Manuel”  was  admired 
for  his  military  skill,  “Doha  Juana” 
was  beloved  for  her  tenderness  to 
the  sick  and  wounded.  The  Indians 
adored  her  “like  the  image  of  the 
Virgin.”  In  the  field,  as  well  as  in 
the  camp,  she  was  her  husband’s 
ally  and  helper,  and  after  his  death 
she  continued  to  fight  in  the  sacred 
cause  until  independence  was  won. 
According  to  the  Revista  Nan'onal, 
of  Buenos  Aires,  she  took  part  in 
seventeen  combats,  commanded  a 
battalion  at  Viloma,  and  was  wounded 
at  Villar,  where  her  husband  was 
killed : she  was  given  the  title  of 
acting  lieutenant-colonel  by  the  Ar- 
gentine government. 

Padilla  was  among  the  first  of 
the  patriots  to  insist  upon  a separate 
constitution  for  his  country,  feeling 
that  the  revolutionists  of  Buenos  Aires  were  disposed  to  show  scant  consideration  for  the 
interests  of  Alto  Peru  in  their  treatment  of  this  part  of  the  junta’s  territory.  He  expressed 
this  sentiment  in  a letter  to  General  Rondeau  in  i8i^,  to  the  great  disgust  of  that  officer. 
After  repeated  and  futile  efforts  on  the  part  of  the  royalists  to  capture  Padilla,  while  he 
eluded  them  on  every  side,  besieged  Chuquisaca  for  a whole  month,  and  brought  despair 
to  the  viceroy’s  troops,  a battle  took  place  at  Villar  on  September  14,  1816.  Both  sides 
fought  with  fury,  a thousand  victims  falling  without  any  sign  of  yielding  on  either  side, 
when  suddenly  Padilla  fell  dead,  pierced  by  a sabre;  and  his  faithful  followers  lost 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


^9 


heart  for  the  fray,  suffering  their  first  and  only  defeat.  They  were  taken  prisoners  and 
barbarously  put  to  death. 

The  guerrilla  chief  Lanza,  one  of  the  most  audacious  and  cunning  of  them  all,  led  the 
royalists  a “wild  goose  chase”  among  the  mountains  of  Ayopaya,  without  giving  them  a 
single  advantage.  Camargo  was  no  less  successful  in  guerrilla  tactics,  until  through  treachery 
he  was  killed,  with  eight  hundred  of  his  followers,  and  his  head  sent  on  a pike  to  Pezuela 
in  token  of  a famous  capture.  Warnes,  the  daring  “border  chief”  of  Santa  Cruz,  fell  in  a 
battle  with  the  enemy,  after  his  men  had  killed  two  thousand  eight  hundred  royalists  out  of 
an  army  of  three  thousand.  The  victorious  general  ordered  the  execution  of  nine  hundred 
patriots,  of  all  ages  and  both  sexes,  to  soothe  his  vengeance.  Muhecas,  the  curate  whose 
patriotism  was  no  less  active  than  his  piety,  was  captured  after  brave  resistance,  and 
assassinated  while  on  his  way  to  trial.  History  teems  with  examples  of  the  tenacity  and 
boldness  with  which  the  ^/^am7/ar6>5  fought  to  the  end. 

On  July  9,  1816,  the  Congress  of  Tucuman  declared  the  independence  of  the  Argentine 
provinces.  Several  notable  patriots  of  Alto  Peru  were  in  the  assembly,  among  others  Pedro 
Carrasco,  president  of  the  congress,  and  Pedro  Ignacio  Rivero,  Cochabambans;  and  Jose 
Mariano  Serrano,  secretary  of  the  congress,  who  edited  the  Act  of  Independence  of  Argentina, 
and  Mariano  Sanchez  Loria,  Chuquisacans.  The  important  role  played  by  the  patriots  of 
Alto  Peru  in  the  organization  and  development  of  the  revolutionary  party  of  Buenos  Aires, 
and  the  framing  of  the  Argentine  constitution,  was  due,  in  great  part,  to  the  educational 
advantages  which  Alto  Peru  offered  at  that  time  in  the  celebrated  universities  of  Chuquisaca 
and  Carolina,  which  were  among  the  first  in  Spanish  America. 

One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  Argentine  government  after  the  assembly  of  the  Congress 
of  Tucuman  was  to  send  a fourth  auxiliary  army  into  Alto  Peru.  General  Pezuela  had  been 
appointed  Viceroy  of  Peru,  and  had  sent  General  Ramirez  to  take  his  place  in  the  command 
of  the  royalist  army.  After  six  months,  Ramirez  was  replaced  by  General  La  Serna,  who 
came  from  Spain  with  officers  and  soldiers  of  very  different  calibre  from  those  who  had 
sacked  and  plundered  the  country  under  Goyeneche  and  Pezuela.  But  General  La  Serna 
remained  only  long  enough  to  realize  the  horrible  condition  in  which  his  predecessors  had 
left  the  people,  and  then  resigned  his  command  in  favor  of  General  Ramirez,  who  returned 
to  the  field  in  time  to  meet  the  fourth  Argentine  army  of  patriots,  under  La  Madrid.  The 
royalists,  led  by  one  of  Ramirez’s  officers.  Captain  Andres  Santa  Cruz,  who  became  president 
of  the  republic  of  Bolivia  later,  fought  the  auxiliary  army  in  two  engagements,  resulting  in  a 
final  victory  for  the  royalists,  June  24,  1817.  Thus,  the  fourth  effort  of  the  Argentine  revolu- 
tionists to  help  the  cause  in  Alto  Peru  proved  as  disastrous  a failure  as  the  three  preceding, 
and  the  fight  was  again  left  to  the  giicrrilleros,  to  whom  was  chiefly  due  whatever  the  patriot 
cause  gained  during  the  long  fifteen  years’  struggle.  So  exasperating  were  their  tactics,  and 
so  effective  their  methods,  that  one  of  the  royalist  generals  was  forced  to  exclaim,  with  more 
fervor  than  hope:  Esia  giierra  es  ctcnui! — “This  war  is  eternal ! ” Olaheta,  sent  by  the  viceroy 
to  conquer  Lanza,  wrote  to  his  chief:  “Lanza  sustained  the  fight  with  infernal  obstinacy!” 


6o 


BOLiyiA 


The  four  years  of  guerrilla  warfare  that  followed  the  defeat  of  the  last  auxiliary  army  from 
Buenos  Aires  made  a continuous  record  of  alternating  successes  and  defeats.  Olaheta,  named 
general  of  division  of  the  royalists,  fought  a wearisome  series  of  engagements  with  the  various 
guerrilla  leaders,  gaining  little  or  nothing  in  spite  of  the  superior  number  and  experience  of  his 
troops.  General  Valdez,  who  had  charge  of  the  garrisons  of  Oruro  and  La  Paz,  was  thoroughly 
disheartened.  The  outlook  seemed  to  justify  the  exclamation:  “This  war  is  eternal.” 

In  July,  1821,  the  news  came  from  Lima  which  gave  promise  of  the  rapid  approach  of 
a crisis  in  the  affairs  of  Alto  Peru.  The  great  liberating  army  of  Chile  and  Argentina,  under 
the  command  of  General  San  Martin,  had  disembarked  in  Pisco;  his  squadron  had  captured 
the  best  Spanish  ships  in  the  harbor  of  Callao;  the  patriots  were  now  in  possession  of 
Lima,  the  viceroy  having  fled  from  the  capital,  and  the  independence  of  Peru  was  assured 
in  a proclamation  bearing  the  date  of  July  28,  1821.  Meantime,  La  Serna  had  been  appointed 
viceroy  to  replace  Pezuela. 

The  general  rejoicing  with  which  the  devoted  patriots  of  Alto  Peru  received  the  glad 
tidings  of  the  arrival  of  San  Martin’s  conquering  hosts  may  well  be  imagined.  In  all  the 
chief  cities  there  were  meetings  of  the  revolutionists,  and  new  courage  animated  the  hearts 
of  the  whole  people.  Early  in  August  of  1823,  an  army  of  six  thousand  men,  commanded 
by  General  Andres  Santa  Cruz,  who  had  joined  the  patriot  cause,  was  sent  by  the  junta  of 
Lima  to  establish  the  independence  of  Alto  Peru.  General  Santa  Cruz  was  accompanied  by 
Augustin  Gamarra,  who  commanded  one-half  of  the  division. 

With  the  arrival  of  the  liberating  troops,  the  famous  giiernllews  joined  the  ranks  and 
fought  with  new  zeal  in  the  cause  to  which  they  had  given  all  their  energy  for  fifteen  long 
years.  One  cannot  help  smiling  with  satisfaction  upon  reading  that  Olaneta,  who  had 
received  special  instructions  from  the  viceroy  a few  years  before  “to  conquer  the  guerrilla 
chief  Lanza  at  all  hazards,”  fled  precipitately  in  January,  182^,  at  the  notice  of  the  approaching 
troops  of  the  independent  army  “commanded  by  General  Jose  Miguel  Lanza”! 

On  the  ffteenth  anniversary  of  the  martyrdom  which  the  frst  patriots  of  the  Inde- 
pendence suffered  in  the  plaza  of  La  Paz,  at  the  same  hour  which  had  witnessed  their 
execution,  the  last  of  the  Spanish  authorities  evacuated  the  city,  January  29,  1825'.  The 
same  day,  the  Independent  Army  of  Alto  Peru,  commanded  by  General  Jose  Miguel  Lanza, 
brother  of  the  martyred  patriot,  made  its  solemn  entry  into  the  city:  and  on  the  following 
day  General  Lanza  read  the  proclamation  of  Alto  Peru’s  independence,  and,  in  the  name  and 
with  the  authority  of  General  Bolivar  and  General  Sucre,  he  assumed  command  of  the 
province  of  La  Paz,  with  the  title  of  “president,”  which  was  equivalent  to  that  of  “prefect.” 
What  more  ftting  than  that  the  noble  veteran  of  the  cause,  who  had  sustained  it  through 
good  fortune  and  evil,  in  the  army  ranks  and  on  the  guerrilla  hunts,  the  famous  warrior  who 
had  won  and  lost  with  equal  equanimity  and  had  never  grown  disheartened,  should  be  the 
chosen  patriot  to  issue  the  proclamation  of  national  independence  1 

The  war  of  independence  was  ended.  The  record  of  final  victory  had  been  sealed  on 
the  battlefield  of  Ayacucho,  on  December  9,  1824,  when  General  Antonio  Jose  de  Sucre, 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


6i 

who  commanded  the  liberating  army  in  the  absence  of  his  chief,  General  Simon  Bolivar, 
swept  away  the  last  shred  of  hope  harbored  by  the  royalists,  and  realized  forever  the  liberty 
of  America  from  European  domination.  The  meeting  in  Lima  of  the  two  great  liberators  of 
South  America,  San  Martin  of  the  Chile  and  Argentine  army  and  Bolivar  of  the  Colombian, 
had  resulted  in  the  withdrawal  of  San  Martin  from  the  field,  leaving  Bolivar  in  possession,  as 
dictator,  a title  bestowed  upon  him  by  the  Congress  of  Lima.  The  first  victory  of  Bolivar’s 
troops  over  those  of  the  Viceroy  La  Serna  was  on  the  field  of  Junin,  near  Cerro  de  Pasco, 
where  the  royalist  general  Canterac  was  completely  defeated  and  put  to  flight.  Bolivar  then 
returned  to  Lima,  leaving  General  Sucre  in  command  of  the  army,  which  met  the  viceroy  in 
the  decisive  battle  of  Ayacucho.  The  Span- 
ish troops  were  overthrown  and  the  viceroy 
was  taken  prisoner.  General  Sucre,  with 
the  magnanimity  that  characterized  him, 
conceded  an  honorable  capitulation  to  the 
vanquished,  authorizing  facilities  for  their 
eiTibarking  to  return  to  Spain. 

The  capitulation  of  Ayacucho  is  thus 
described  by  the  Bolivian  historian,  Luis  M. 

Guzman:  “The  victory  of  Ayacucho  had 
broken  the  Spanish  yoke.  Great  were  the 
losses  of  that  memorable  day.  The  viceroy 
La  Serna  had  fallen  wounded  and  a prisoner 
at  the  beginning  of  the  combat.  The  lieu- 
tenant-general Canterac,  as  the  remaining 
chief  of  the  royalist  army,  hastened  to 
formulate  on  the  very  field  of  battle  the 
eighteen  articles  in  which  is  comprehended 
the  capitulation  of  Ayacucho.  In  them  the 
Spanish  general  proposes  to  save  the  honor 
of  his  arms:  to  secure  the  persons  and 
properties  of  Spanish  subjects:  to  guarantee  the  civil  and  military  posts  of  those  who  may 
wish  to  serve  in  the  independent  army;  to  facilitate  the  departure  of  troops  returning 
voluntarily  to  Spain,  and  to  provicie  for  their  transportation ; to  give  full  amnesty  for  their 
political  opinions.  The  vanquished  royalists  were  permitted  to  dictate  the  conditions  of 
peace,  which  were  admitted  with  few  modifications  by  the  victorious  patriots.  Thus 
General  Sucre  triumphed  twice  over  his  enemies.  His  valor  overthrew  them  on  the  field 
of  battle:  his  heroic  generosity  disarmed  them  with  gratitude.  A more  exigent  conqueror 
would  have  turned  against  himself  the  arm  of  despair,  wliich  might  still  have  proved  fatal 
for  the  independent  army,  because  of  the  numerous  royalist  troops  and  garrisons  that  yet 
remained  at  various  points  of  upper  and  lower  Peru.” 


MONUMENT  TO  GENERAL  SUCRE  IN  THE  ALAMEDA.  LA  PAZ. 


62 


BOLIVIA 


General  Sucre  signed  two  copies  of  the  capitulation,  one  of  which  is  preserved  in  the 
archives  of  Madrid.  The  other,  from  which  the  photograph  was  made  to  illustrate  this 
chapter,  is  a valued  possession  of  Sehora  Hortensia  Gutierrez  de  Pinilla,  the  wife  of  Bolivia’s 
foreign  minister,  and  daughter  of  one  of  its  foremost  scholars.  It  is  treasured  with  patriotic 
pride,  and  occupies  the  place  of  honor  in  the  library  of  her  beautiful  home  in  La  Paz,  where 
it  hangs  beside  a portrait  of  the  “Gran  Mariscal  de  Ayacucho.” 

The  victorious  army  of  the  Independence,  with  General  Sucre  at  its  head,  marched 
from  the  battlefield  of  Ayacucho  to  Cuzco  and  thence,  by  way  of  Lake  Titicaca  and  the 
Desaguadero  River,  to  La  Paz.  When  the  news  of  its  approach  to  La  Paz  was  heralded 
abroad,  the  city  went  wild  with  joy.  For  miles  around  the  scene  was  one  of  animated 
expectancy.  A committee  of  distinguished  citizens,  headed  by  General  Lanza  and  Casimiro 
Olaheta, — the  latter  a nephew  of  the  royalist  leader, — met  the  conquering  hero  a few  leagues 
out  of  the  city  and  welcomed  him  on  behalf  of  the  nation.  On  February  7,  1827,  he  made 
his  triumphal  entrance,  amid  the  jubilant  acclamations  of  the  people,  under  arches  of  victory 
garlanded  with  roses,  and  through  streets  gaily  decorated  with  flags  and  banners  bearing 
mottoes  of  eulogy.  At  the  plaza  the  hero  paused,  to  pay  a tribute  to  the  memory  of  Murillo 
and  the  other  martyred  patriots  of  1809;  and  as  tears  came  to  his  eyes  in  the  contemplation 
of  the  scene,  now  gay  with  the  joyous  manifestations  of  a free  people,  once  sad  in  the 
shadow  of  the  gallows  on  which  the  nation’s  brave  sons  were  sacrificed,  the  impressive 
moment  created  a sudden  stillness,  broken  again  immediately  by  a burst  of  cheers  and 
shouts  from  the  enthusiastic  multitude.  Feasting,  music,  and  dancing  reigned  throughout 
the  city;  and  the  visitors  were  entertained  with  balls,  soirees,  and  banquets  for  a month. 
Two  days  after  his  arrival.  General  Sucre  issued  a decree  convoking  a national  assembly  in 
Oruro  to  determine  the  future  government  of  the  country.  In  March  he  set  out  to  visit  the 
interior,  leaving  a division  of  his  army  in  La  Paz  under  command  of  General  Jose  Maria 
Cordova.  In  every  city  his  arrival  was  the  signal  for  general  rejoicing. 

The  first  national  assembly  met  in  Chuquisaca  in  June,  182^.  To  General  Sucre  belongs 
the  honor  of  having  been  the  prime  organizer  of  the  republic,  and  the  best  beloved  of  its 
leaders.  In  the  hall  where  the  first  national  assembly  met  hangs  the  portrait  of  the  grand- 
marshal  of  Ayacucho,  and  the  words  of  his  testament ; “ Still  another  reward  I ask  of  the 
entire  nation  and  of  its  administrators:  not  to  destroy  the  work  of  my  creation;  to  preserve, 
amid  all  dangers,  the  independence  of  Bolivia.’’  And  the  last  words  of  their  liberator  have 
been  made  the  watchword  of  the  nation. 

During  the  deliberations  of  the  first  congress  two  despatches  were  received  of  portentous 
significance.  One  came  from  the  International  Congress  of  La  Plata,  leaving  to  the  provinces 
of  Alto  Peru  perfect  freedom  to  constitute  themselves  an  independent  republic,  although 
they  had  been  a part  of  the  viceroyalty  of  La  Plata  under  the  colonial  regime.  The  other 
was  a high-handed  message  from  General  Bolivar,  declaring  Alto  Peru  subject  to  the 
authority  of  the  Congress  of  Lima,  and  ordering  the  Congress  of  Chuquisaca  to  suspend  its 
sessions.  Indignation  blazed  up  fiercely  at  the  unwarrantable  attitude  of  the  great  liberator 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


'>  // 

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^^'  / ■ { 
FACSIMILE  OF  THE  ORIGINAL  TREATY  OF  AYACLICHO,  WHICH  SEALED  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  FROM  SPAIN. 


BOLiyiA 


V 


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: ^ / / fgt  ^ai»  e/  fiyigiedG  gnyy  — — ^ 

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FACSIMILE  OF  THE  ORKilNAL  TREATY  OF  AYACUCHO,  WHICH  SEALED  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  FROM  SPAIN. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


/"a  /n  /.N  y ■If  '-^xyy:  0<^-^  ^ '’ 

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AYY/  6'^^^Hye/n.yj  ^ ^Cyr-Ha-r 
oYtr>^  (l/l  C'eyr)i 


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^ Yu  y.^rXAYr  CA>7YuYyy,.Ye^  y'7'^Zr 

C ^dcYr^^NyrcuYr,.  pY  '/Mru  Z^y  /yrdCyz^  eY ^jryry,  ^ 


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■\ 

\ i 

/■ 


I> 


FACSIMILE  OF  THE  ORIGINAL  TREATY  OF  AYACUCHO.  WHICH  SEALED  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  FROM  SPAIN. 


66 


BOLIVIA 


in  thus  summarily  disposing  of  the  destiny  of  a free  and  independent  people  who  had  given 
the  best  blood  of  the  country  to  secure  its  sovereign  freedom.  The  fiery  and  eloquent 
Olaheta,  the  giieirillew  Lanza,  and  others,  protested  in  vigorous  terms  against  any  such 
despotism,  and,  overriding  Bolivar’s  proclamation,  a unanimous  vote  declared  that  Alto  Peru, 
“ which,  on  the  South  American  continent,  had  been  the  altar  on  which  was  spilled  the  first 
blood  of  the  free  and  the  tomb  in  which  lay  buried  the  last  of  the  tyrants,”  constituted  a 
sovereign  state,  “independent  of  all  nations,  both  of  the  Old  and  the  New  World,  to  be 
governed  by  its  own  people  and  ruled  by  the  constitution,  laws,  and  authorities  which  they 
should  believe  most  conducive  to  the  future  happiness  of  the  nation.”  The  president  of 
the  assembly,  Don  Jose  Mariano  Serrano, — the  illustrious  patriot  who,  as  secretary  of  the 
Congress  of  Tucuman  nine  years  before,  had,  as  we  have  seen,  edited  the  first  constitution 
of  the  Argentine  republic, — wrote  the  Act  of  Independence  of  Bolivia,  which  bears  the  date  of 
August  6,  I Say  The  new  state  took  the  name  Bolivar,  afterward  changed  to  Bolivia,  in 
honor  of  the  great  liberator,  and  for  its  government  adopted  the  republican  Unitarian  system. 
Chuquisaca  was  made  the  provisional  capital,  under  the  name  of  Sucre,  to  commemorate 
the  part  taken  in  the  national  organization  of  the  new  republic  by  the  great  Bolivar’s  most 
distinguished  general.  Also,  with  that  discretion  which  is  the  better  part  of  valor,  in  order 
to  avoid  a conflict  with  Bolivar,  a deputation  was  sent  by  the  congress  to  convey  to  that 
general  assurances  of  gratitude  and  esteem  in  recognition  of  his  great  service  to  the  cause  of 
independence,  and  to  offer  his  excellency  the  presidency  of  the  new  republic  which  had 
been  named  in  his  honor.  It  was  a diplomatic  stroke  that  won  the  heart  of  the  liberator — a 
man  not  without  vanity. 

General  Sucre  returned  to  La  Paz  to  meet  General  Bolivar,  who  arrived  on  the  i8th  of 
August,  iSay  amid  such  demonstrations  of  enthusiasm  as  had  never  before  been  witnessed 
in  that  city.  It  was  the  first  meeting  between  Bolivar  and  Sucre  since  they  had  parted  after 
the  battle  of  Junin,  and  the  scene  was  an  affecting  one,  as  was  also  Bolivar’s  inspired 
eulogy  of  the  noble  troops  who  had  won  the  day  at  Ayacucho.  The  victorious  regiment, 
dressed  in  full  parade  uniform  in  honor  of  the  arrival  of  the  commander-in-chief,  was  the 
first  to  greet  General  Bolivar  upon  his  arrival  at  the  Altos,  the  heights  above  the  city.  Under 
the  gallant  escort  of  his  beloved  troops  the  liberator  descended,  surrounded  by  an  admiring 
multitude,  who  pressed  so  eagerly  on  the  advancing  hero  that  the  procession  could  only 
make  slow  progress,  enthusiastic  vivas  continually  ringing  out  from  the  midst  of  the  jubilant 
crowds.  At  the  entrance  to  the  city,  where  a grand  triumphal  gateway  had  been  erected,  a 
golden  key  was  presented  to  the  liberator  by  two  citizens,  who  thanked  him  in  the  name  of 
the  people  for  the  eminent  services  he  had  rendered  the  cause  of  liberty.  Opening  the 
gates  with  impressive  ceremony  he  passed  into  the  city,  and  was  received  by  the  municipal 
authorities  with  the  honor  due  to  such  a distinguished  guest.  In  the  principal  plaza,  now 
the  Plaza  Murillo,  General  Bolivar  addressed  his  army  with  the  affection  and  pride  that  a 
great  leader  feels  when  he  stands  in  the  presence  of  faitliful  followers  who  have  successfully 
carried  out  his  plans,  upon  which  depended  not  only  the  welfare  of  the  nation,  but  the 


HISTORY  OF  THE  INDEPENDENCE 


67 


glory  of  his  own  name  in  the  records  of  posterity.  Napoleon  felt  the  sentiment  when  he 
eulogized  his  magnificent  army.  Bolivar  felt  it  when  he  stood  in  the  midst  of  the  serried 
troops  that  filled  the  plaza  Murillo,  and,  in  a voice  that  thrilled  by  its  magnetic  quality  and 
fascinated  by  its  eloquence,  expressed  in  a few  words  his  appreciation  and  admiration  of 
their  loyal  services  to  the  cause  of  patriotism.  From  his  heart  he  spoke:  “Soldiers!  At  last 
the  moment  that  I have  longed  for  has  come,  to  salute  and  embrace  you  with  the  affection 
which  I feel  and  which  you  deserve,  after  your  glorious  and  marvellous  deeds  on  the  field 
of  Ayacucho,  whose  victory,  bestowing  upon  you  imperishable  fame  and  renown,  has 
crowned  your  generous  efforts  in  favor  of  the  liberty  of  America.  The  strength,  valor,  con- 
stancy, and  loyalty  with  which  you  have  fulfilled  your  vow  to  save  America  from  its  tyrants 
and  oppressors  are  sufficient  merits  upon  which  to  enter  the  temple  of  immortality  and 
glory,  and  to  rest  there  from  the  fatigues  of  the  illustrious  campaign  which  you  have  just 
ended,  defeating  and  annihilating  the  hosts  of  tyrants  who  for  three  centuries  dared  to  stain 
the  soil  of  America  with  their  accursed  footprints ! Soldiers  1 Finished  the  memorable  task 
that  has  finally  brought  us  to  the  feet  of  yonder  colossus  [Illimani],  which  at  this  moment 
looks  down  upon  you  as  if  in  proud  contemplation,  we  shall  constitute  these  provinces  free, 
and  we  shall  leave  them  in  possession  of  their  political  and  social  rights.  May  their  happi- 
ness be  as  genuine  and  their  liberty  as  true  as  the  aspirations  of  the  Liberating  Army  and  of 
your  general ! ” 

The  Colombian  troops  were  deeply  moved  while  listening  to  the  voice  of  their  beloved 
general ; and  as  soon  as  the  last  words  were  spoken,  they  broke  into  enthusiastic  cheers,  and 
shouts  of  J/iva  el  General  Bolivar!  were  repeated  on  all  sides.  General  Sucre  responded 
in  behalf  of  the  army,  and  then,  in  the  name  of  the  city  of  La  Paz,  presented  a gold  chain  to 
the  liberator,  attempting  to  put  it  over  his  head  as  a token  of  admiration  and  esteem,  “woven 
by  the  hands  of  Liberty  and  Victory  for  their  best-beloved  son,  the  genius  of  Colombia,  the 
hero  of  South  America.”  Bolivar  resisted,  and  placed  the  chain  around  Sucre’s  neck, 
saying:  “He  it  was  who  gave  liberty  to  Peru  on  the  field  of  Ayacucho;”  to  which 
the  modest  victor  replied:  “Your  name  alone  made  me  conquer  at  Ayacucho!”  It  must 
have  been  a pretty  exhibition  of  the  politeness  so  characteristic  of  the  race,  and  altogether 
appropriate  between  two  such  distinguished  heroes.  The  author  of  this  description, 
Don  Luis  Crespo,  says  the  chain  was  finally  given  by  General  Sucre  to  his  chief  of  division, 
Jose  Maria  Cordova. 

General  Bolivar  received  with  great  ceremony  the  deputation  from  the  national  assem- 
bly; and  after  accepting  at  their  hands  the  supreme  gift  of  the  nation,  which  he  eulogized 
as  his  hija  predilecta,  “best-beloved  daughter,”  he  left  La  Paz  on  September  20,  1827,  in 
company  with  General  Sucre  and  a part  of  his  army,  and  proceeded  to  the  capital,  where 
his  welcome  was  one  worthy  of  the  city  which  had  been  for  nearly  three  centuries  the 
metropolis  of  social  and  intellectual  culture  in  Alto  Peru. 

With  the  arrival  of  Bolivar  in  Sucre,  and  his  inauguration  as  first  president  of  the 
republic  of  Bolivia,  closes  the  “storm  and  stress”  period  that  had  lasted  throughout  the 


68 


BOLIVIA 


long  war  of  independence.  After  having  been  the  first  to  start  the  patriotic  movement  in 
SoLitli  America,  and  the  first  to  promulgate  its  doctrines  in  the  sister  province  of  La  Plata, — 
which  owed  the  organization  of  its  revolutionary  junta  and  the  preparation  of  its  first 
republican  constitution  to  the  genius  of  patriots  of  Alto  Peru, — this  long-suffering  nation 
finally  reaped  the  reward  of  its  labors,  though  it  was  the  last  to  benefit  by  the  blessings 
of  a free  and  independent  government.  But  when  the  dawn  of  a new  life  broke  over 
its  hills  and  lighted  its  valleys  with  the  joy  of  hope,  the  sun  shone  out  all  the  clearer  to 
brighten  the  day  of  its  birth  as  an  independent  nation,  because  of  the  shadows  that  had 
enveloped  the  night  before. 


(.ROUP  OF  CAVALRY  ON  THE  ALTOS  OF  LA  PAZ. 


REGIMENT  OE  CAVALRY  ON  PARADE  IN  SUCRE 


CHAPTER  IV 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


MID  the  joyous  acclaims  of  a grateful  people, 
who  heralded  him  as  the  “ Father  of  the 
Republic”  and  its  “Protector,”  Bolivar  was  inau- 
gurated first  President  of  Bolivia  in  the  month 
of  November,  182^,  the  young  republic  thus 
enjoying  the  prestige  of  having  at  the  head  of 
its  government  the  hero  whom  all  the  world 
delighted  to  honor,  the  victorious  chief  of  the 
army  that  had  crushed  the  last  remnant  of 
Spanish  power  in  South  America,  the  invincible 
“ Liberator,”  the  “ George  Washington  of  South 
American  independence.” 

With  characteristic  energy  and  execution, 
President  Bolivar  essayed  to  guide  the  first  steps 
of  his  hija  predilecici  in  the  path  of  national 
progress  and  development.  But  military  genius 
is  not  always  associated  with  the  qualities  most 
desirable  in  the  executive  chief  of  a nation,  and 
Bolivar  was  the  brilliant  soldier  rather  than  the 
keen  statesman.  His  administration  was  marked 
by  an  effort  to  accomplish  more  than  could  pos- 
sibly be  done  with  deliberation.  Although  he 
remained  only  a few  months  in  the  country  to 
which  he  had  been  called  as  president  for  life, 
relinquishing  the  high  office  in  January,  1826,  to 
return  to  Lima,  Peru,  he  instituted  innumerable  political  and  administrative  reforms  in  that 
short  time,  as  the  national  historian  remarks,  “ with  marked  precipitation.”  From  Lima  he 
sent  a draft  of  the  constitution,  which  was  adopted  by  Congress.  The  limits  of  the  new' 

71 


GENERAL  JOSE  MANUEL  PANDO,  PRESIDENT. 
1900-1904. 


72 


BOLIVIA 


republic,  as  fixed  by  Bolivar,  left  much  to  be  desired,  and  seemed  a scant  recognition  of  the 
noble  part  played  by  this  brave  people  in  the  great  war  which  had  begun  and  ended  on  its 
patriotic  soil ; and  although  the  country  owes  a debt  of  gratitude  to  the  heroic  but  capricious 
soldier  and  legislator  whose  name  it  bears,  it  also  owes  him  a great  and  apparently  irreparable 
misfortune,  which  from  the  beginning  has  hindered  its  progress  and  which  has  been  the 
cause  of  a series  of  disasters  requiring  the  most  devoted  patriotism  and  the  best  statesman- 
ship to  avert  dire  consequences.  The  inadequate  and  seemingly  unjust  allotment  of  seaboard 
to  the  new  republic  may  be  held  responsible  for  many  of  the  evils  which  assailed  it  in  the 
beginning,  and  of  which  the  effects  are  only  now  being  permanently  overcome.  North- 
ward, Bolivian  territory  reaches  twelve  degrees  south  latitude,  where  it  touches  the  eastern 
frontier  of  Peru  at  seventy-one  degrees  west  longitude,  according  to  Bolivian  claims;  the  line 
following  that  boundary  only  reached  the  coast  at  twenty-two  degrees  south  latitude,  and 
at  twenty-five  degrees  the  Chilean  boundary  began.  Later,  as  is  well  known,  Bolivia  lost 
even  this  small  strip  of  seaboard.  The  history  of  this  demarcation  is  an  interesting  one.  In 
accepting  the  offer  of  the  Bolivian  Congress,  Bolivar  had  promised  not  only  to  preside  over 
the  future  destinies  of  the  republic,  but  to  use  his  influence  with  Peru  to  obtain  the  conces- 
sion of  the  seaboard  from  the  port  of  Arica,  latitude  eighteen  degrees,  southward  to  the  limit 
of  twenty-two  degrees.  This  concession  would  have  given  Bolivia  the  two  good  ports  of 
Arica  and  Iquique,  and  it  would  have  endowed  the  country  with  the  immense  riches,  then  un- 
discovered, of  the  nitrate  regions.  The  two  ports  left  to  Bolivia  by  Bolivar’s  settlement  of  the 
limits,  Cobija  and  Antofagasta,  were  very  inferior,  had  no  water  or  vegetation,  and  communica- 
tion with  the  interior  through  them  was  difficult  and  costly.  General  Santa  Cruz,  who  at  that 
time  was  provisional  President  of  Peru,  opposed  the  concession  to  Bolivia  of  the  limits  asked 
for,  and  converted  Bolivar  to  his  opinion,  though  Santa  Cruz  was  a Bolivian  and  later  the 
president  of  his  country.  It  has  been  suggested  by  some  authorities  on  the  history  of 
these  early  days  of  the  republic,  that  Bolivar,  who  had  imbibed  the  pseudo-classical  ideas 
of  the  French  revolutionists,  wished  to  make  Bolivia  an  ideal  country,  a new  Arcadia  in  the 
Western  world.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  purpose  of  the  great  liberator,  there  can  be 
no  doubt  that  the  industrial  and  commercial  development  of  Bolivia  was  retarded  and 
international  relations  were  practically  prevented  by  her  lack  of  a good  seaboard  with 
excellent  ports.  But  Bolivar  does  not  appear  to  have  given  much  thought  to  the  future  of 
his  “best-beloved  daughter.’’  The  boundaries  of  the  republic  of  Bolivia  followed  in  general 
the  limits  that  had  been  fixed  for  Alto  Peru  under  the  regime  of  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas. 

Before  leaving,  Bolivar  recommended  for  the  presidency  of  Bolivia  his  great  general, 
Jose  Antonio  de  Sucre,  to  whose  efforts  had  been  due  the  first  organization  of  the  govern- 
ment after  the  withdrawal  of  the  Spanish  authorities.  Although  a Venezuelan  by  birth. 
General  Sucre  had  already  proved  himself  a friend  of  the  new  republic,  and  his  election  was 
a unanimous  expression  of  the  will  of  the  people.  The  second  Congress,  which  met  in 
Sucre  on  May  2^,  1826,  and  remained  in  session  until  January  1 1,  1827,  was  chiefly  occupied 
in  undoing  much  of  what  President  Bolivar  had  so  hastily  done,  and  in  making  efforts  to 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


73 


establish  the  government  upon  a firm  basis.  The  French  system  of  political  division  into 
departments,  provinces,  cantons,  and  vice-cantons  was  adopted ; and  the  constitution  was 
modified  in  some  of  its  more  objectionable  features,  which  included  “life  tenure”  and 
“irresponsibility”  of  the  president.  Education  was  encouraged  by  the  institution  of 
primary  and  secondary  schools  and  universities,  the  University  of  the  capital,  henceforth 
called  Sucre,  obtaining  some  distinction.  Hospitals  were  founded,  jails  built,  freedom  of  the 
press  was  guaranteed,  the  financial  system  was  perfected,  and  the  national  debt  recognized. 
The  payment  of  a million  dollars  was  guaranteed  to  the  Colombian  and  Peruvian  soldiers 
who  had  fought  at  Junin  and  Ayacucho.  The  Indians  have  always  been  regarded  rather  as 
proteges  of  the  government  than  as  independent  citizens,  and  they  were  not  allowed  a vote 
for  Congress;  they  remained  subject  to  the  poll  tax,  and,  up  to  the  present  day,  they  have 
shown  little  Inclination  to  take  part  in  political  affairs,  outside  of  municipal  government. 


In  spite  of  the  best  efforts 
order  in  the  new  republic,  and 
the  high  ideals  which  ruled 
him  the  title  of  the  “ philoso- 
which  finally  resulted  in  his 
dency  and  his  withdrawal 
not  entirely  the  fault  of  the 
ruthlessly  sacrificed.  The 
to  accomplish  his  overthrow 
lombian  troops  who  remained 
to  its  freedom,  and  that  the 
because  of  his  monarchical 
the  liberty  not  only  of  Bolivia, 
lies.  Notwithstanding  the  fact 
which  had  become  insubordi- 
point  of  the  sword,  Sucre 


GENERAL  ANDRES  SANTA  CRUZ. 
PRESIDENT,  1829-1839. 


of  Sucre  to  establish  law  and 
to  govern  in  accordance  with 
all  his  actions,  winning  for 
pher  soldier,”  difficulties  arose 
resignation  from  the  presi- 
from  the  country.  It  was 
Bolivians  that  Sucre  was  so 
neighboring  republics  plotted 
on  the  pretext  that  the  Co- 
in the  country  were  a menace 
president  had  retained  them 
aspirations,  which  threatened 
but  of  the  neighboring  repub- 
that  the  Colombian  troops, 
nate,  were  banished  at  the 
was  accused,  with  Bolivar, 


of  having  designs  to  establish  a monarchy,  and  a secret  party  was  formed  to  depose 
him.  In  1828  the  garrison  of  the  capital  mutinied,  killing  the  officer  on  guard;  Sucre,  who 
hurried  to  the  scene,  was  attacked  and  had  his  right  arm  broken.  Colonel  Lopez  arrived 
from  Potosi  at  the  head  of  a small  battalion  in  time  to  witness  the  cruel  onslaught  upon  the 
president,  and  to  crush  the  mutiny,  but  not  in  time  to  save  the  life  of  the  brave  General 
Jose  Miguel  Lanza,  the  illustrious  ^iieiTillcro,  who  was  killed  while  defending  his  beloved 
chief.  Had  Sucre  really  held  the  ideas  attributed  to  him  by  his  enemies,  he  might  have 
made  himself  a dictator,  which  would,  perhaps,  have  been  a blessing  for  the  country  in 
that  period  of  political  confusion.  But  he  quietly  resigned  his  office  and  left  Bolivia, 
delegating  his  authority  to  a cabinet  council,  and  leaving  in  supreme  command  General  Jose 
Maria  Perez  de  Urdininea,  the  president  of  the  council.  The  story  of  Sucre’s  life  is  brief 
and  glorious.  Born  in  Cumana,  Venezuela,  on  February  3,  179^,  he  was  “a  child  of  the 


74 


BOLIVIA 


revolution  ” from  his  tender  youth.  Consecrated  to  the  cause  of  American  liberty,  and 
excelling  in  genius,  he  rapidly  scaled  the  heights  of  fame  until  at  the  age  of  thirty  he  was 
one  of  the  most  eminent  personalities  of  the  independence,  as  the  hero  of  Ayacucho.  After 

his  withdrawal  from  Bolivia  in  1828  he  returned  to  his  native 
land,  where  two  years  later  he  was  assassinated,  at  the  age  of 
thirty-five.  His  memory  is  everywhere  revered  in  Bolivia, 
and  many  handsome  monuments  have  been  erected  in  his 
honor. 

Meantime,  Bolivar  had  tried  to  impose  his  Coiist/tiidon 
Boliviano  on  the  Peruvians,  who  promptly  rebelled,  refusing 
to  accept  what  they  considered  an  effort  to  establish  absolute 
authority.  The  constitution  not  only  declared  the  presidency 
to  be  an  office  for  life,  but  gave  the  president  almost  unlimited 
power.  A strong  party  overthrew  the  constitution  and  the 
authority  of  Bolivar,  and  proclaiming  its  intention  to  save 
Bolivia  also  from  the  foreign  power  of  Colombia,  or  as  the 
party  leader  expressed  it  “to  place  itself  between  the  victim 
and  the  assassins,”  sent  an  army  under  the  command  of 
General  Gamarra  to  take  possession  of  the  country.  The 
mutiny  at  Sucre  afforded  the  necessary  pretext  for  an  invasion  and  Gamarra  marched  on 
La  Paz,  Cochabamba,  and  Potosi,  receiving  everywhere  a welcome  from  the  disaffected  poli- 
ticians who  looked  upon  the  opponent  of  Bolivar’s  party  as  an  ally  rather  than  an  invader. 
After  the  departure  of  General  Sucre,  Congress  elected  as  his  successor  General  Andres 
Santa  Cruz,  president.  As  General  Santa  Cruz  was  in  Chile,  Vice-president  General  Jose 
Miguel  de  Velasco  governed  in  his  absence.  Disturbances  were  general  during  the  period 
that  followed  General  Sucre’s  withdrawal.  Anarchy  threatened  the  young  republic  when 
suddenly  deprived  of  the  guidance  of  that  master  spirit,  the  statesman  above  reproach,  who, 
in  refusing  to  govern  except  according  to  the  constitution,  had  found  himself  unable  to 
govern  at  all.  General  Pedro  Blanco  declared  his  sympathy  with  the  cause  of  Gamarra, 
and  Colonel  Ramon  Loaiza,  at  Gamarra’s  instigation,  stirred  up  a revolt  in  the  department  of 
La  Paz,  which  declared  for  autonomy  under  the  name  of  Alto  Peru;  the  uprising  was 
quelled,  as  was  also  an  invasion  in  eastern  Bolivia  led  by  the  royalist  Aguilera.  General 
Blanco  secured  a following  and  succeeded  in  being  elected  president,  with  Colonel  Loaiza 
as  vice-president,  but  his  term  of  office  lasted  only  a week,  when  he  was  seized,  imprisoned, 
and  assassinated. 

General  Santa  Cruz  arrived  in  La  Paz  in  May,  1829,  where  he  inaugurated  his  adminis- 
tration, taking  the  oath  of  office  at  the  hands  of  General  Jose  Ballivian,  Prefect  of  La  Paz, 
on  the  24th  of  the  same  month.  He  set  out  almost  immediately  for  Sucre,  arriving  there  on 
the  29th  of  May.  The  administration  of  General  Santa  Cruz  was  one  of  the  most  important 
in  the  history  of  the  republic.  He  was  an  able  ruler,  and  possessed  the  combined  qualities 


GENERAL  JOSE  BALLIVIAN,  THE 
HERO  OF  INGAVI,  PRESIDENT, 
1843-1847. 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


IS 


of  soldier  and  statesman  in  a remarkable  degree.  His  army  was  the  best  organized  and 
equipped  in  Soutli  America.  By  the  promulgation  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Code,  he  gave  to 
Bolivia  the  first  legislative  system  perfected  in  a South  American  republic.  His  rule  was 
despotic,  but  effective,  the  very  character  necessary  for  the  establishment  of  order  out  of 
the  chaos  in  which  the  government  had  been  involved  after  Sucre’s  withdrawal.  His  first 
act  was  to  grant  a general  amnesty,  but  he  retained  the  death  penalty  for  sedition  and 
executed  it  upon  several  occasions.  In  1831  he  convoked  the  fifth  Congress  in  La  Paz,  it 
being  the  first  time  that  the  national  legislature  had  met  in  that  city  since  the  proclamation 
of  the  republic.  A second  national  constitution  was  promulgated,  which  remains  in  effect 
to  the  present  day  with  few  modifications,  and  a treaty  of  peace  was  signed  with  Peru. 
The  national  revenues,  which  had  fallen  from  two  million  dollars  under  the  viceroyalty  to 
practically  nothing,  were  regulated,  and  the  new  finance  minister,  Don  Jose  M.  Lara,  was 
able  to  show  a revenue  of  one  million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars,  the  chief  sources 
of  which  were  the  customs  duties,  the  sale  of  Jesuit  landed  property,  the  export  taxes 
on  ores, — then  fixed  at  eight  and  one-half  per  cent  ad  valorem, — the  production  of  the 
mint  of  Potosi,  and  the  Indian  poll  tax.  Reforms  were  made  in  education,  and  the  uni- 
versities of  La  Paz  and  Cochabamba  were  established,  as  well  as  a school  of  arts  in  the 
latter  city.  The  province  of  Tarija  was  made  a department,  and  a census  of  the  republic 
was  taken,  showing  a population  of  one  million  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
issuing  of  a debased  coinage  was  one  of  the  errors  of  Santa  Cruz’s  administration,  resulting, 
as  it  did,  in  the  discredit  of  the  country  financially,  a condition  of  affairs  which  lasted  for 
nearly  thirty  years,  until,  under  the  administration  of  President  Acha,  the  present  coinage 
system  was  introduced.  Another  mistake  of  the  great  states- 
man, or  what  is  regarded  as  such  by  many  Bolivians,  was 
his  refusal  to  consider  a proposal  from  tlie  government  of 
Peru,  through  Gamarra, — who,  although  not  president,  was 
the  ruling  power  in  its  politics, — that  Bolivia  should  give  up 
to  Peru  all  Lake  Titicaca,  half  of  which  came  within  Bolivian 
limits,  and  the  peninsula  of  Copacabaha  upon  which  is  located 
a sacred  shrine  of  the  Virgin,  in  return  for  the  cession  by  Peru 
of  the  department  of  Tarapaca  with  its  excellent  coast  line  and 
harbors.  It  is  generally  believed  that,  in  the  rejection  of  this 
offer,  Santa  Cruz  had  a motive  that  looked  toward  the  carrying 
out  of  a much  more  ambitious  plan  of  “expansion.” 

The  controlling  desire  of  Santa  Cruz’s  life  was  to  accom- 
plish the  union  of  Bolivia  and  Peru  in  a confederation,  of 
which  he  was  to  be  the  executive  and  administrative  chief. 

Taking  advantage  of  the  quarrels  which  at  this  time  were  going  on  in  Peru  between 
President  Orbegoso  on  the  one  hand  and  Gamarra  and  Salaverry  on  the  other,  and  under 
the  pretext  of  lending  aid  to  Orbegoso,  General  Santa  Cruz  marched  into  Peru  in  18^^ 


GENERAL  MANUEL  ISIDORO  BELZU. 
PRESIDENT,  1849-1855. 


76 


BOLIl/IA 


with  his  splendid  army,  leaving  the  government  affairs  of  Bolivia  in  the  hands  of  Vice- 
President  Velasco.  Gamarra  and  Salaverry  were  defeated,  Salaverry  was  killed,  and  Santa 
Cruz  assumed  the  Protectorate.  Congresses  met  at  Sicuani  and  at  Huaura  and  decreed 


taken  Velasco’s  place  at  the  head  of  the  government.  Congress  met  at  Sucre,  and  the 
pact  was  rejected  with  the  firm  declaration  that  “it  would  never  be  considered!”  In 
the  meantime,  the  Peru-Bolivian  confederation  was  regarded  by  the  remaining  republics 
of  South  America  as  a menace  to  the  balance  of  power,  and  Chile  and  Argentina  offered 
their  aid  to  Gamarra  to  overthrow  it.  Chile  sent  two  armed  expeditions,  the  first  of 
which  was  defeated,  the  second  achieving  complete  victory  under  the  brilliant  command 
of  General  Manuel  Bulnes,  who  overthrew  the  army  of  the  Confederation  at  Yungay, 
January  20,  1839.  Defeated  at  Yungay  and  receiving  news  at  the  same  moment  that  a 
popular  revolution,  uncier  the  leadership  of  General  Jose  Ballivian  and  General  Velasco  of 
the  “Restoration  Party,”  had  been  organized  against  his  authority  in  Bolivia,  General  Santa 
Cruz  resigned  the  Protectorate  and  embarked  for  Guayaquil.  Here  he  made  several 
ineffectual  efforts  to  regain  prestige  in  Bolivia,  but,  finding  his  position  hopeless,  he  finally 
left  South  America  for  France.  His  subsequent  career  was  uneventful,  though  he  became  a 
friend  and  counsellor  of  Louis  Napoleon;  and,  in  1849,  was  appointed  Bolivian  minister  in 
Paris.  He  died  in  1867. 

General  Santa  Cruz  was  one  of  the  greatest  presidents  Bolivia  ever  had.  He  worked 
for  immigration,  recognizing  the  necessity  for  a larger  population  to  develop  the  vast  natural 
resources  of  the  country,  without  which  all  efforts  toward  progress  and  prosperity  must  be 
slow  and  comparatively  fruitless.  He  gave  attention  to  its  agricultural,  commercial,  and 
social  interests:  and,  during  the  few  years  of  peace  that  followed  his  inauguration,  he 
rendered  invaluable  services  to  the  republic.  Had  he  been  a devoted  patriot  like  General 
P(jrfirio  Diaz,  of  Mexico,  his  dictatorship  might  have  permanently  advanced  Bolivia  politically 


the  division  of  Peru  into  two  states.  North  Peru  and  South 
Peru,  to  which  Bolivia  was  united  by  the  decree  of  an  extraor- 
dinary Congress  held  in  Tapacari,  Bolivia,  in  1836,  which 
approved  all  that  had  been  done  and  authorized  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  Peru-Bolivian  confederation.  Santa  Cruz 
appointed  General  Orbegoso  president  of  North  Peru,  General 
Pio  Tristan  president  of  South  Peru,  and  General  Velasco 
president  of  the  Bolivian  state.  Representatives  from  the 
three  states  met  in  Tacna,  May  i,  1837,  and  signed  the  pact 
of  the  confederation. 


DR.  JOSE  MARIA  LINARES.  THE 
PRESIDENT,  1857-1861. 


It  did  not  require  extraordinary  foresight  on  the  part  of 
the  more  patriotic  Bolivians  to  judge  of  the  probable  outcome 
of  such  an  arrangement:  and  the  secondary  position  which 
Santa  Cruz  appeared  disposed  to  give  his  own  country  raised 
a storm  of  protest  in  the  capital,  where  Mariano  Calvo  had 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


11 


and  socially  beyond  any  other  South  American  republic.  But  his  thirst  for  conquest  led  him 
into  expensive  wars  that  cost  the  country  more  than  was  gained,  and  left  it  a heritage  of 
military  despotism  which  made  it  a prey  to  all  kinds  of  political  abuses.  The  destiny  of  the 
republic,  through  frequent  subsequent  administrations,  rested  in  the  hands  of  a military 
autocrat  who  imposed  his  absolute  will  upon  the  nation  for  good  or  evil,  until  some  rival 
leader  was  able  to  wrest  the  supreme  power  from  him.  The  progress  of  the  country 
depended  upon  the  character  of  its  executive,  and,  although  many  of  the  presidents  who 
succeeded  Santa  Cruz  were  patriotic  and  capable  leaders,  there  were  a few,  as  is  the  case  in 
every  republic,  whose  administrations  are  records  of  caprice  and  folly.  In  nearly  all  of  the 
South  American  republics  the  success  of  the  struggle  for  independence  had  brought  in  its 
train  the  evils  that  often  accompany  military  prestige.  The  soldiers  who  had  won  glory  on 
the  battlefield  could  not  be  contented  with  the  humdrum  life  of  organized  polif  cs.  This  was 
particularly  true  in  Bolivia,  in  consequence  of  the  conf  nued  successes  of  its  armies  under 
Santa  Cruz,  when  defeat  had  come  so  seldom  that  the  idea  of  laying  down  their  arms  was 
thoroughly  repugnant.  When  there  was  no  longer  a common  enemy  against  whom  to  turn 
their  practised  weapons,  they  found  cause  for  rebellion  among  themselves,  the  haughty  spirit 
of  the  soldier, — Spain’s  particular  legacy  to  her  offspring, — being  with  difficulty  subdued ; so 
that  few  of  the  presidents  who  came  immediately  after  Santa  Cruz  completed  their  term  of 
office,  and  many  died  in  exile. 

After  the  defeat  and  departure  of  Santa  Cruz,  General  Velasco  became  provisional 
president,  and,  in  1839,  Congress  elected  him  constitutional  president.  This  Congress  adopted 
a fourth  constitution,  more  liberal  than  any  that  had  preceded  it.  Opposing  the  government 
of  Velasco,  who  had  committed  some  political  indiscretions 
and  had  given  offence  by  congratulating  Chile  on  the  victory 
of  Yungay,  in  which  so  many  Bolivians  were  killed.  General 
Jose  Ballivian  led  a campaign  against  the  president,  and, 
though  it  was  unsuccessful,  Velasco’s  term  of  office  was  cut 
short  a year  later  when  friends  of  Ballivian,  who  in  the 
meantime  had  been  exiled  to  Peru,  secured  his  recall  and 
election  to  the  presidency  in  1841.  Velasco,  who,  after  his 
deposition  had  fled  to  Argentina,  returned  with  an  army  to 
tight  Ballivian,  but  the  news  that  Gamarra  was  again  invading 
the  country  with  the  determination  to  conquer  and  annex  it 
to  Peru  so  fired  his  patriotism  that  he  gave  up  his  troops  to 
Ballivian  to  fight  in  the  common  cause.  It  was  a noble  act, 
which  reconquered  for  him  the  hearts  of  the  whole  people. 

The  history  of  the  celebrated  battle  of  Ingavi,  which  was 
one  of  the  most  glorious  in  the  annals  of  the  republic,  reflects  great  honor  on  the  arms  of 
Bolivia,  as  it  was  won  against  heavy  odds,  the  Peruvians  having  six  thousand  troops  in  the 
field  while  the  Bolivians  had  only  four  thousand.  But  General  Ballivian  was  a genius  in 


COLONEL  ADOLFO  BALLIVIAN 
PRESIDENT,  1873.  DIED,  1874. 


BOLIVIA 


78 


command,  and  he  prepared  his  troops  for  a precipitate  attack  on  the  enemy,  the  trained 
giierriUeros  making  their  “ rush  ” in  such  an  impetuous  onslaught  that  the  Peruvian  ranks 
were  broken ; victory  was  assured.  General  Gamarra  fell  dead,  pierced  by  two  bullets ; and 


people  found  it  impossible  to  support  them  at  the  time  when  they  were  in  full  activity.  One 
of  the  first  acts  of  Ballivian’s  Congress  was  to  repeal  the  liberal  constitution  of  1839  and 
to  proclaim  the  constitution  of  1843,  which  gave  the  greatest  power  in  the  government  to 
the  chief  executive.  This  constitution  was  nicknamed  the  “Military  Ordinance,”  which  its 
opponents  said,  “should  be  read  only  in  the  glitter  of  the  sword  of  Ingavi.”  It  revealed 
the  military  spirit  of  the  president  in  every  line,  and  was  one  of  the  strongest  influences  in 
creating  opposition  to  his  power.  On  the  other  hand,  the  same  dominating  character  that 
dictated  a system  of  rigid  discipline  was  strong  to  overcome  the  difficulties  in  the  way  of  the 
country’s  development,  and  new  roads  were  built,  exploring  expeditions  were  sent  to 
the  Beni  and  to  the  Chaco,  and  the  department  of  the  Beni  was  created.  An  office  of 
statistics  was  established,  and  a new  census  was  taken,  which  gave  Bolivia  a population 
of  more  than  two  million.  The  military  code  was  promulgated,  and  a military  school 
instituted ; the  bishopric  of  Cochabamba  was  created.  A new  educational  system  was 
established,  due  to  the  efforts  of  Ballivian’s  minister  Don  Tomas  Frias,  who  was  afterward 
one  of  Bolivia’s  most  distinguished  presidents. 

Ballivian  was  a man  of  letters  and  a friend  of  philosophers  and  poets.  During  his 
administration  Bolivia  enjoyed  great  prestige  among  other  nations,  and  France,  England,  the 
United  States,  as  well  as  the  South  American  powers,  sent  diplomatic  representatives  to 
Sucre.  At  this  time  Bolivia  was  the  only  South  American  republic  whose  independence 
had  not  been  recognized  by  Spain,  and  the  government  took  advantage  of  the  residence  in 
Europe  of  Dr.  Jose  Maria  Linares,  one  of  Bolivia’s  cleverest  statesmen  and  a descendant  of 
a noble  family  of  Spain,  to  accredit  him  to  the  court  of  Madrid  as  its  diplomatic  representative, 


SENOR  DON  TOMAS  FRIAS, 
PRESIDENT,  1874-1877, 


General  Castilla,  one  of  the  leaders,  afterward  President  of 
Peru,  was  taken  prisoner.  At  Puno,  whither  Ballivian  pursued 
the  retreating  army,  a treaty  of  peace  was  signed  which  stipu- 
lated that  everything  should  be  reciprocally  condoned,  without 
demands  of  any  character  on  the  part  of  either.  With  the 
victory  of  Ingavi,  Bolivia  closed  the  last  scene  in  the  struggle 
for  independence,  remaining  henceforth  secure  in  the  right  to 
govern  the  territory  allotted  by  the  liberator,  unmolested  by 
invaders.  Ballivian  was  the  hero  of  the  hour,  and  his  mem- 
ory is  enshrined  in  the  patriotic  hearts  of  his  countrymen, 
who  have  forgiven  the  follies  that  grew  out  of  his  ambitious 
and  despotic  nature,  and  remember  only  that  he  was  a true 
and  loyal  patriot,  and  the  chief  instrument  of  his  country’s 
salvation  in  a great  crisis.  But  though  it  is  easy  to  forgive  the 
faults  of  Ballivian  after  a lapse  of  half  a century  or  more,  his 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


79 


with  power  to  negotiate  the  recognition  of  the  young  republic  by  tlie  mother  country,  and 
to  effect  a treaty  of  peace  and  friendship.  Dr.  Linares  secured  the  desired  recognition 
and  treaty  in  1848,  though  the  final  raff  cation  did  not  take  place  until  some  years  later. 
The  rigorous  military  discipline  of  Ballivian  brought  about  his  downfall.  The  fnal  stroke 
occurred  when  one  of  his  chief  officers,  Colonel,  afterward  General,  Manuel  Isidore  Belzu, 
was  punished  for  insubordination  by  being  reduced  to  the  rank  of  a common  soldier  to  serve 
in  the  little  garrison  of  Obrajes.  In  strong  resentment  of  this  indignity  Belzu  roused  the 
soldiers  to  revolt.  Though  the  mutiny  was  quelled,  the  spirit  of  revolution  had  been 
spreading  for  some  time  among  the  partisans  of  Velasco,  and  they  took  advantage  of  the 
moment  to  break  out  in  open  insurrection ; the  populace  rose  in  La  Paz,  and  in  the  face  of  a 
general  rebellion,  north  and  south,  Ballivian  preferred  resigning  the  presidency  and  leaving 
the  country  to  plunging  the  naf on  in  the  horrors  of  a civil  war.  One  of  the  revolutionary 
leaders,  Eusebio  Guilarte,  was  proclaimed  president,  but  after  ten  days’  stormy  experience 
in  that  uncertain  post  of  honor,  the  mutiny  of  his  soldiers  forced  him  to  flee,  and  he,  too, 
left  the  country.  Belzu  was  the  idol  of  the  soldiers  and  of  the  common  people,  and  they 
demanded  his  election  to  the  supreme  office.  But  he  deferred  to  Velasco,  who,  for  the 
fourth  time,  became  president  of  Bolivia,  assuming  the  dictatorship  until  Congress  should 
meet  to  confrm  the  choice  of  the  people,  which  took  place  on  August  6,  1848.  Belzu  was 
appointed  war  minister,  and  Don  Casimiro  Olaheta,  “the  silver-tongued  orator”  of  the 
Inciependence,  was  also  a member  of  the  Cabinet.  A continued  conflict  between  these  two 
leaders  demoralized  the  politics  of  the  government  and  opened  the  way  for  another  revolution, 
which  resulted  in  Belzu’s  elevation  to  the  supreme  power.  When  Velasco  found  it  necessary 
to  take  up  arms  in  defence  of  his  government  he  left,  in  his 
place,  the  president  of  the  Congress,  Dr.  Jose  Maria  Linares, 
who,  however,  was  forced  to  flee  from  the  country  soon 
after,  in  consequence  of  the  victory  of  Belzu’s  troops  over 
those  of  Velasco  in  the  battle  of  Yamparaez.  After  this  defeat, 

Velasco  retired  to  private  life.  Linares  joined  Ballivian  in 
Chile,  and  they  planned  an  attempt  to  defeat  the  “Belcistas,” 
as  Belzu’s  followers  were  called.  An  invasion  was  made  from 
the  south,  but  all  efforts  were  futile  to  overcome  the  enor- 
mous popularity  of  Belzu,  who  represented  the  democratic 
spirit,  as  opposed  to  the  aristocratic,  for  which  Ballivian  and 
Linares  stood.  Finding  their  position  hopeless,  Ballivian  again 
left  the  country  and  went  to  Brazil,  where  he  died  of  yellow 
fever  two  years  afterward.  Linares  prepared  his  forces  for 
the  campaign  which  later  gained  for  him  the  dictatorship  of 
Bolivia,  when  he  became  one  of  the  few  admirable  autocrats  of  South  American  history. 

The  government  of  Belzu,  seized  by  force  of  arms,  had  to  be  maintained  by  continuous 
warfare.  The  various  party  chiefs  kept  up  a series  of  revolts,  and  on  one  occasion  Belzu 


CiHNERAl.  NARCISO  CAMPERO, 
PRESIDENT.  1880-1884. 


8o 


BOLiyiA 


was  shot  in  the  Alameda  of  Sucre.  After  his  recovery,  he  convoked  a Congress  which 
confirmed  him  in  the  presidency.  In  the  brief  period  of  peace  with  which  his  term  of 
office  was  blessed,  he  erected  many  handsome  public  buildings,  revised  the  statutes,  and 
promoted  some  important  reforms.  A clever  orator,  Don  Evaristo  Valle,  achieved  distinction 
during  Belzu’s  administration  through  his  fiery  philippics,  in  which  he  scored  the  “demo- 
cratic despot”  with  brilliant  emphasis  and  effect.  But  if  the  president’s  enemies  were  bitter 
and  unrelenting,  his  followers  were  devoted  to  him  to  the  end,  and  the  Belcistas,  as  his 
party  was  called,  have  always  had  representation  in  subsequent  politics.  In  i8^^.  General 
Belzii,  declaring  himself  tired  of  the  struggle,  resigned  office  in  favor  of  his  son-in-law. 
General  Jorge  Cordova.  He  retired  at  once  to  Europe.  The  presidency  of  Cordova  was 
brief  and  stormy,  and  two  years  after  his  inauguration,  a revolution,  carefully  planned  by 
Linares,  drove  him  from  power  and  from  Bolivia. 

The  dictator  Linares,  as  he  is  known  to  posterity,  in  distinction  from  many  presidents 
of  his  country  whose  government  was  more  despotic,  though  less  frankly  declared,  assumed 
the  reins  of  power  constitutionally  in  18^7,  and  as  dictator  next  year,  with  the  avowed  inten- 
tion of  making  a “clean  sweep”  of  existing  evils  and  reforming  the  whole  political  system. 
His  keen  intellect  and  sincerity  of  purpose  made  him  respected,  even  by  his  enemies,  and 
his  patriotic  principles  were  above  question.  Perhaps  he  was  over-zealous.  It  is  difficult  to 
set  the  proper  pace  when  a desire  to  effect  numerous  reforms  impels  the  eager  disciplinarian 
onward  in  the  path  of  power.  Linares  began  by  creating  a Council  of  State,  with  whom  he 
conferred  upon  all  matters  relating  to  the  administration.  He  decreed  a reduction  of  the 
president’s  salary  and  those  of  his  advisers : he  reformed  the  army ; he  changed  the  electoral 
divisions  of  the  country,  which  he  distributed  in  thirty-two  jefatiiras,  or  political  districts, 
whose  chiefs  were  directly  responsible  to  the  central  government:  he  created  or  restored  the 
municipalities,  making  them  as  independent  as  possible  of  the  central  power;  he  systematized 
the  public  accounts,  introducing  economies  which  improved  the  national  credit ; he  reorganized 
the  judicial  system  and  established  a new  criminal  code;  and  he  ordered  the  founding  in 
every  diocese  of  seminaries  for  educational  purposes,  and  the  reform  of  the  clergy. 

Naturally,  so  many  reforms  raised  up  a host  of  enemies:  even  some  of  the  dictator’s 
friends  protested  against  the  severity  of  his  discipline,  and  the  signs  grew  more  ominous 
with  each  new  evidence  of  despotism.  He  was  unrelenting  in  the  punishment  of  conspirators 
and  insubordinate  officials,  and  throttled  the  press  with  an  iron  censorship.  The  murmurs 
grew  l(juder  as  the  pressure  became  heavier;  and  when  a coup  d'etat,  under  the  leader- 
ship of  his  ministers  Jose  Maria  de  Acha  and  Ruperto  Fernandez,  aided  by  the  commander 
Manuel  Antonio  Sanchez,  suddenly  divested  the  dictator  of  his  power  on  January  14,  1861, 
and  these  persons  constituted  themselves  a Junta  de  Gobierno,  the  popular  voice  was  as 
ready  to  sanction  his  exile  as  it  had  been  to  welcome  his  accession  to  power.  With  a broken 
spirit.  Dr.  Linares  left  his  country,  and  a few  months  later  he  died  in  poverty  in  Valparaiso. 

The  scent  of  the  battlefield  was  still  too  sweet  in  the  nostrils  of  the  giicrritteros  and 
their  descendants  to  make  a civil  government  permanent,  under  whatever  form  it  might  be 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


8i 


established;  and  though  the  Congress,  which  was  called  together  by  the  Junta  de  Gobierno 
a few  weeks  after  the  coup  d'etat,  proclaimed  as  president  General  Jose  Maria  de  Acha,  who 
governed  constitutionally  and  with  a leniency  quite  the  reverse  of  Linares’s  strict  discipline, 
he  had  to  contend  with  mutiny  and  in- 
surrection all  through  the  period  of  his 
administration.  President  Acha  was  as 
earnest  in  the  laborious  task  of  govern- 
ing his  people  as  his  predecessor  had 
been,  and,  until  the  last  unfortunate  step 
of  his  official  career,  he  seems  to  have 
shown  greater  tact.  He  introduced  for 
the  first  time  the  use  of  postage  stamps, 
created  the  engineers’  corps  to  superin- 
tend the  opening  of  roads  and  building 
of  bridges,  established  the  first  coach 
road  between  Cochabamba  and  the  cities 
along  the  neighboring  valleys,  sent  explo- 
rations to  the  Chaco,  and  perfected  the 
monetary  system.  The  mistake  which 
closed  his  administration  and  drove  him 
into  exile  was  an  effort  to  have  General 
Agreda  elected  his  successor.  This  was 
regarded  by  sensitive  supporters  of  the 
constitution  as  a breach  of  prerogative, 
and,  as  one  historian  says,  “it  was  re- 
solved to  break  down  by  force  the  im- 
positions of  power.’’ 

Whatever  may  be  said  in  criticism  of  senor  don  gregorio  pacheco,  president.  1884-1888. 

the  Bolivian  character  as  displayed  in  the 

events  of  the  first  fifty  years  of  the  republic,  it  must  be  admitted  that  there  was  plenty  of  vigor 
in  the  young  nation ; the  great  difficulty  in  directing  it  seemed  to  be  to  strike  the  medium 
between  easy-going  authority,  which  the  military  spirit  of  the  times  quickly  nullified,  and 
uncompromising  despotism,  which  was  never  found  strong  enough  to  hold  permanent  sway 
over  an  independent  and  liberty-loving  people.  General  Acha,  one  of  the  best  of  the 
presidents,  came  nearer  to  achieving  the  correct  medium  than  many  of  his  colleagues.  He 
was  succeeded  by  the  iie  ptiis  iittra  of  despots.  General  Mariano  Melgarejo,  a reckless  soldier 
who  had  risen  from  the  ranks  through  sheer  audacity,  and  who  seemed  to  possess  in  an 
extraordinary  degree  that  gift  of  tyranny  which  has  been  a picturesque  attribute  of  autocrats 
in  all  ages.  His  absolute  contempt  for  the  rights  of  his  fellow  men  and  his  resolute 
fearlessness  were  predominating  traits.  Once,  during  the  six  years  of  his  rule,  he  was 


82 


BOLIVIA 


driven  out  of  the  capital  by  Belzu,  who  had  returned  from  Europe ; but,  routed  as  he  was, 
he  returned  to  his  palace,  killed  Belzu,  and,  presenting  himself  to  the  multitude,  exclaimed: 
“ Belzu  is  dead! — Who  lives  now?”  The  answering  shout  of  the  populace.  Viva  Melgarejo! 
proved  how  much  better  than  Linares  the  new  despot  understood  the  rabble.  In  all  parts 
of  the  republic,  the  news  that  Melgarejo  had  seized  the  reins  of  power,  abrogating  the 
constitution  of  i86i,  and  that  he  wished  to  impose  upon  the  people  the  system  of  despotic 
government  which  had  been  the  cause  of  so  much  bloodshed  and  misery  in  the  past,  roused 
up  a spirit  of  revolt  which  threatened  all  the  horrors  of  civil  war.  Melgarejo  had  none  of 
the  scruples  which  had  led  Ballivian  to  avoid  plunging  the  nation  into  war  by  abdicating  his 
position.  When  they  rebelled,  he  sacrificed  them  ruthlessly.  One  of  his  decrees  subjected 
to  the  death  penalty  not  only  those  who  took  up  arms  against  him,  but  those  who  refused  to 
give  him  their  services.  He  instituted  a reign  of  terror,  and  his  follies  were  as  demoralizing 
to  the  national  politics  as  the  episodes  of  his  private  life  were  to  the  social  well-being. 
Chile  took  advantage  of  the  situation  to  secure,  through  flattery  of  the  despot’s  vanity,  a 
revision  of  the  boundaries  and  the  final  extension  of  her  limits  to  twenty-four  degrees 
south  latitude  in  a strip  running  back  from  the  ocean  to  the  Andes.  Brazil  sent  a clever 
representative,  who  bestowed  on  Melgarejo  decorations  from  the  emperor  in  exchange 
for  leagues  of  Bolivian  land  on  both  banks  of  the  Guapore  River,  the  principal  tribu- 
tary of  the  Madeira,  thus  losing  Bolivia  the  right  of  navigation  on  one  of  the  chief 
branches  of  the  Amazon.  The  evils  of  Melgarejo’s  government  brought  a train  of  terrible 
consequences  to  the  country,  from  which  it  required  a long  time  to  recuperate.  Not  only 
was  progress  crippled  at  home,  but  the  national  credit  was  compromised  and  a heavy 
foreign  debt  incurred  for  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  the  republic.  The  coinage  was 
debased  beyond  precedent,  the  Indian  lands  were  illegally  seized  and  sold,  and  there  seemed 
no  limit  to  the  crimes  perpetrated  against  the  constitution.  By  sheer  audacity,  Melgarejo 
maintained  his  position  for  six  years,  until  a revolution,  headed  by  General  Agustin  Morales, 
of  La  Paz,  brought  about  his  downfall  and  banishment  in  January,  1872.  His  successor. 
General  Morales,  whose  administration  was  an  improvement  on  that  of  Melgarejo,  and 
who  showed  a disposition  to  amend  the  evils  of  his  predecessor,  returning  their  lands 
to  the  Indians,  and  nullifying  many  of  Melgarejo’s  decrees,  was  not  the  man  needed  to 
guide  the  country  through  the  stormy  transition  period  of  statehood.  A far  better  fortune 
awaited  the  people  in  the  election  of  the  successor  to  General  Morales,  who  was  taken  off 
by  a pistol-shot  during  a quarrel  between  the  president  and  one  of  his  officers. 

Out  of  the  darkness  of  the  crisis  in  which  Bolivia  had  been  plunged  by  the  dictator 
Melgarejo,  the  light  of  a better  day  began  to  appear.  Morales  was  succeeded  by  a man  of 
scrupulous  integrity  and  patriotism.  Dr.  Tomas  Frias,  as  provisional  president,  which  office 
he  held  only  until  the  president  elected  by  Congress  in  extraordinary  session  in  1873,  Colonel 
Adolfo  Ballivian,  could  arrive  from  London,  where  he  was  residing  as  financial  agent  of  the 
Bolivian  government.  The  election  of  President  Adolfo  Ballivian  was  carried  out  without 
bribery,  undue  influence,  or  martial  pressure.  It  was  the  will  of  the  whole  people. 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


83 


Colonel  Ballivian,  a son  of  the  hero  of  Ingavi,  was  highly  educated,  had  travelled  extensively, 
had  a reputation  for  unsullied  honor,  and,  having  made  a special  study  of  political  and  social 
science  in  Europe,  might  be  expected  to  bring  political  order  out  of  his  country’s  chaos  and  lead 
it  into  the  paths  of  peace  and  prosperity.  Colonel  Ballivian  organized  his  ministry  with  some 
of  the  best  statesmen  of  the  republic,  the  names  of  Baptista,  Bustillo,  Calvo,  M.  Ballivian,  and, 
later,  the  noted  financier  Dalence,  being  a guarantee  of  good  government.  But  the  broken 
health  of  the  president  made  it  impossible  for  him  to  attend  to  the  affairs  of  state;  and  nine 
months  after  his  inauguration,  he  died  in  Sucre  on  February  18,  1874.  The  entire  nation 
mourned  the  loss  of  this  beloved  and  distinguished  son,  whose  death  came  as  a blow  to 
the  most  sanguine  hopes.  Vice-president  Frias  succeeded  Ballivian;  but  his  government 
was  constantly  disturbed  by  insurrections,  until  finally  his  trusted  war  minister.  General 
Daza,  organized  a coup  iPetat  and  assumed  the  dictatorship,  first  imprisoning  the  president 
with  his  ministers  and  then  banishing  him.  Don  Tomas  Frias  was  a statesman  of  unim- 
peachable  honor  and  great  simplicity  of 
character.  One  biographer  says;  “He 
was  the  only  man,  of  those  we  have 
known,  who  reached  the  greatest 
heights,  the  most  important  posts,  with- 
out seeking  them  and  perhaps  even 
against  his  desire.  His  brain  was  never 
turned  by  exaltation,  he  was  never  in- 
toxicated by  adulation,  and  he  never 
became  arrogant  with  power.”  Like 
so  many  of  Bolivia’s  best  men,  he  died 
in  exile,  in  Florence,  Italy,  in  1884. 

President  Daza  assumed  the  supreme 
power  in  1876.  His  wise  choice  of 
ministers  gave  to  his  administration  an 
importance  which  his  own  limited 
knowledge  of  statecraft  would  never 
have  gained.  Notable  reforms  were 
made  in  civil  and  criminal  legislation 
and  in  the  coinage ; and  a new  constitu- 
tion was  framed,  containing  the  most 
advanced  republican  principles. 

The  question  of  boundaries  be- 
tween Bolivia  and  Chile,  which  had 

been  a threatening  evil  for  many  years,  reached  the  acute  stage  during  Daza’s  adminis- 
tration. In  1876,  Chile  put  pressure  on  Bolivia  to  make  her  sign  a treaty,  giving  the  latter 
half  shares  in  guano  and  minerals  to  be  discovered  in  the  Bolivian  maritime  department. 


SENOR  DON  ANICETO  ARCE,  PRESIDENT,  1888-1892. 


84 


BOLIVIA 


In  consequence  of  this,  a dispute  arose  between  a Bolivian  tax  collector  and  an  Anglo- 
Chilean  nitrate  company  in  Antofagasta  about  a small  export  duty  of  ten  centavos  per 
quintal— about  three  cents  gold — decreed  on  nitrate,  which  the  company  declared  Bolivia 

had  no  right  to  levy  under  the  terms  of 
the  treaty,  and  which  it  refused  to  pay. 
The  Bolivian  government  sent  armed 
police  to  collect  the  money,  the  company 
telegraphed  the  news  to  Santiago;  and 
Chile,  without  awaiting  explanations  or 
listening  to  proposals  for  arbitration, 
sent  troops  to  occupy  the  port  of  Anto- 
fagasta. Bolivia  presented  a particularly 
favorable  opportunity  for  Chilean  “ex- 
pansion ” just  at  that  time,  as  it  was 
visited  by  a terrible  plague,  which  deci- 
mated the  country,  while  famine  added 
to  the  horrors  of  the  situation.  In  three 
weeks,  over  two  hundred  deaths  from 
starvation  were  reported  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  agricultural  region,  and  in 
other  places  the  mortality  was  higher. 
Notwithstanding  such  tragic  circum- 
stances, Bolivia  was  obliged  to  declare 
war.  A few  years  previous  a secret 
treaty  of  defensive  alliance  had  been 
made  between  Bolivia  and  Peru,  during 
the  administration  of  Adolfo  Ballivian, 

SENOR  DON  MARIANO  BAPTISTA,  PRESIDENT,  1S92-1896.  ^10  pUl  pOSO  Of  ChOCklng  tllO  aggrOS- 

sive  spirit  of  Chile,  whose  determination 
to  get  possession  of  the  seaboard  provinces  to  the  north  of  her  limits  had  become  more  and 
more  apparent,  especially  since  the  discovery  of  the  guano  beds  and  the  rich  silver  mines  of 
that  region.  Remembering  this  treaty,  Peru  hastened  to  offer  support  to  Bolivia;  and  Chile 
declared  war  on  Peru  and  Bolivia  on  April  5",  1879.  As  soon  as  the  Bolivian  army  could  be 
organized,  the  order  was  given  to  march  to  Peru,  and  General  Daza,  with  eight  thousand  men, 
arrived  in  Tacna  early  in  May,  having  left  the  affairs  of  government  in  the  hands  of  a council 
of  ministers.  Chile  had  been  Increasing  and  strengthening  her  navy  for  years,  and  her  armies 
were  well  disciplined  mid  in  splendid  condition.  General  Daza  showed  himself  in  a bad 
light  from  the  beginning  of  the  war,  and  the  Bolivian  soldiers,  who  performed  miracles  of 
heroism,  were  justly  indignant  and  embittered  over  the  apparent  pusillanimity  of  their  chief. 
He  was  replaced  in  the  command  of  tlie  army  by  Colonel  Eliodoro  Camacho,  a valiant 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


8S 


soldier,  and  in  the  government  of  his  country  by  General  Narciso  Campero,  a statesman  of 
ability  and  patriotism.  But  the  allies  were  not  prepared  for  combat.  The  outcome  of  the 
war  was  a crushing  defeat  of  their  armies  and  the  seizure  by  Chile  of  the  whole  seaboard 
of  Bolivia  and  part  of  the  Peruvian  coast.  In  1880  the  government  of  the  United  States 
had  offered  to  mediate  between  the  belligerents,  and  a conference  was  held  on  board  the 
United  States  gunboat  Lackawanna,  Sehores  Baptista  and  Carrillo  representing  Bolivia.  But 
Chile  rejected  all  proposals  of  mediation ; and  the  war  was  renewed,  with  the  well-known 
results.  According  to  one  of  Chile’s  most  prominent  statesmen,  the  acquisition  of  these 
northern  provinces  has  been  a curse  rather  than  a blessing,  paralyzing  the  other  industries 
of  the  country  by  concentrating  all  labor  in  the  development  of  its  nitrate  fields. 

President  Narciso  Campero,  assisted  by  his  able  finance  minister.  Dr.  Eliodoro  Villazon, 
now  vice-president  of  the  republic,  distinguished  himself  by  the  honorable  and  efficient 
character  of  his  administration.  He  chose  his  ministers  wisely,  and  associated  with  him  in 
the  government  were  such  statesmen  as  Don  Nataniel  Aguirre,  who,  as  president  of  the 
National  Congress  of  1880,  framed  the  constitution  which  now  rules  the  republic:  Don 
Antonio  Quijarro,  who  had  served  his  country  at  home  and  abroad  with  credit ; Don  Fidel 
Aranibar,  and  others  of  like  distinction.  Notwithstanding  the  depleted  treasury.  President 
Campero  built  new  roads,  established  telegraph  lines,  and  sent  exploring  expeditions  to 
the  Chaco.  He  reorganized  the  army,  and  established  army  hospitals,  and  homes  for  the 
widows  of  soldiers  who  had  died  in  battle.  He  created  a Supreme  Council  of  Instruction, 
and  brought  about  many  reforms. 

The  tendency  of  the  times  was  toward  a complete  change  from  the  unsettled  conditions 
which  had  so  long  played  havoc  with  Bolivian  politics.  After  the  war  two  political  parties 
came  to  the  front,  the  Constitutional  and  the  Liberal.  Don  Gregorio  Pacheco,  Don  Aniceto 
Arce,  and  Don  Mariano  Baptista  were  the  leaders  of  the  Constitutional  party,  and  Don 
Eliodoro  Camacho  was  the  chief  representative  of  the  Liberals.  When  Pacheco  was  elected 
to  succeed  Campero  in  1884,  it  is  related  that  one  of  the  ardent  followers  of  General 
Camacho,  the  defeated  candidate,  exclaimed,  in  the  frenzy  of  the  moment:  A la  revoliicion! 
to  which  Camacho  sternly  replied:  Miieran  las  rcvoliicioncs ! — “Let  revolutions  die!’’  And 
from  this  period  dates  the  installation  of  a new  order  of  things,  in  which  the  predomi- 
nating effort  of  all  parties  has  been,  as  far  as  possible,  to  avoid  revolutions.  President 
Pacheco’s  administration  was  marked  by  profound  peace;  and  the  financial  condition 
improved,  owing  to  the  great  wealth  that  poured  out  of  the  Huanchaca,  Colquechaca,  and 
other  silver  mines. 

Dr.  Aniceto  Arce  was  elected  president  to  succeed  Senor  Pacheco  in  1888.  A clever 
statesman  and  politician,  he  did  much  for  the  country’s  progress.  During  his  presidency 
the  first  railroad  in  Bolivia  was  built,  from  Antofagasta  to  Uyuni,  soon  afterward  continued 
to  Oruro,  its  present  terminus.  He  ordered  the  improvement  of  coach  roads  and  the 
construction  of  bridges,  the  Puente  Arce  being  one  of  the  handsomest  monuments  to 
his  administrative  enterprise.  Telegraph  lines  were  extended,  and  other  facilities  granted. 


86 


BOLIVIA 


General  Pando  explored  the  Territorio  de  Colonias.  At  the  expiration  of  Arce’s  government, 
Dr.  Mariano  Baptista  was  elected,  in  1892.  Conditions  were  not  so  favorable  for  progress 
under  his  administration,  owing  to  the  depreciation  of  silver  and  the  unsatisfactory  state  of 
the  mining  industry,  the  chief  source  of  the  country’s  revenue.  But  important  expeditions 
were  sent  out  to  explore  the  regions  of  the  Beni  and  the  Territorio  de  Colonias.  In 
July,  1893,  the  National  Delegation  of  the  Northwest  of  the  Republic  was  sent  to  the  Beni, 
under  the  direction  of  Sehores  Lisimaco  Gutierrez,  Manuel  Vicente  Ballivian,  Roman  Paz, 
Colonel  Juan  L.  Munoz,  Lieutenant  Rosendo  Rojas,  and  Pastor  Valdivieso.  The  town  called 
Villa  de  Riberalta  was  founded  at  the  confluence  of  the  Madre  de  Dios  and  the  Beni,  and 
political  and  judicial  authority  was  established  in  these  remote  regions,  where  the  rich  rubber 
forests  of  the  Acre,  or  Aquiry,  as  it  is  more  correctly  written,  are  located.  The  following 
year  General  Pando,  the  intrepid  explorer  of  these  regions,  to  whose  indefatigable  energy 
the  state  owes  most  of  the  important  knowledge  it  has  obtained  regarding  their  wealth 
and  territory,  was  commissioned  to  mark  the  limits  with  Brazil,  a work  he  carried  out  with 
perfect  satisfaction  to  his  government.  In  1897,  during  the  succeeding  administration  of 
President  Fernandez  Alonso,  General  Pando  headed  another  expedition  to  the  rubber  regions, 
making  complete  studies  of  the  Peruvian  boundary  question,  and  laying  the  foundation  for 
vast  commercial  development  in  that  part  of  Bolivia. 

President  Alonso,  who  was  elected  in  1896,  devoted  especial  attention  to  public 
works  and  the  completion  of  many  handsome  public  buildings  was  due  to  his  energy. 
He  is  not  regarded  as  a brilliant  statesman,  but  rather  as  a clever  lawyer  and  an  orator 
of  distinction.  His  administration  was  brought  to  an  abrupt  end  through  a dispute 
that  arose  over  the  question  of  the  permanent  residence  of  the  executive.  A bill  was 
brought  up  demanding  that  Sucre  be  the  permanent  residence  of  the  president  and  his 
Cabinet.  It  was  approved  by  both  houses.  A request  was  then  made  for  further  discus- 
sion of  the  subject  in  an  extra  Congress,  to  be  held  in  the  neutral  city  of  Cochabamba:  and 
when  this  was  denied.  La  Paz  representatives  protested  and  retired.  A movement  for 
separation  was  initiated  in  La  Paz  by  Sehor  Fernando  Guachalla,  one  of  the  most  illustrious 
statesmen  of  the  country,  and  after  unsatisfactory  efforts  to  conciliate  the  government,  the 
people  of  La  Paz  declared  for  the  Federation.  A Junta  de  Gobierno  was  formed,  composed 
of  Sehores  Guachalla,  Serapio  Reyes  Ortiz,  Jose  Manuel  Pando,  and  Macario  Pinilla;  and  as 
President  Alonso  advanced  from  Sucre  at  the  head  of  his  troops.  General  Pando  took 
command  of  the  revolutionary  forces  of  La  Paz,  and  the  two  armies  met  in  several  engage- 
ments, the  last  of  which,  fought  near  Oruro,  April  10,  1899,  terminated  the  revolution  in  a 
complete  victory  for  General  Pando’s  army.  The  Junta  de  Gobierno  convoked  the  national 
assembly  to  meet  in  Oruro  on  October  20,  1899,  when  General  Pando  was  elected  president, 
with  Don  Lucio  Velasco  and  Don  Anibal  Capriles  vice-presidents.  The  constitution  of  1880 
was  adopted. 

President  Pando  represented  the  enterprising  spirit  of  the  day,  and  in  maintaining  the 
claims  of  La  Paz  as  a more  suitable  centre  for  the  political  government,  he  probably  did  so 


PROGRESS  UNDER  THE  REPUBLIC 


87 


from  a conviction  that  it  is  more  accessible  than  Sucre,  which  has  at  present  no  railway 
communication.  General  Pando  planned  for  the  extension  of  the  railway  systems  to  all 
parts  of  the  republic  and,  soon  after  his  election,  the  line  was  commenced  from  La  Paz  to 
Lake  Titicaca,  through  which  transportation  by  rail  and  steamship  was  secured  to  the  sea- 
port of  Mollendo.  He  reorganized  the  army  and  the  finances,  initiated  the  settlement  of  all 
boundary  disputes  by  arbitration,  and  headed  an  expedition  to  the  Acre  to  stop  the  Brazilian 
advances  into  that  territory.  A treaty  was  afterward  negotiated  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  by  which 
Brazil  paid  Bolivia  two  million  pounds  sterling  in  consideration  of  the  cession  of  part  of 
Bolivia’s  territory. 

The  election  of  General  Ismael  Montes  to  the  presidency  in  May,  1904,  was  one  of  the 
most  popular  in  the  history  of  the  republic,  and  signalizes  the  firm  establishment  of  peace 
and  progress  in  this  interesting  country.  President  Montes  is  a son  of  General  Clodomiro 
Montes,  who  is  the  head  of  the  army,  and  a soldier  and  tactician  of  distinguished  ability. 
One  of  the  first  acts  of  his  government  was  the  settlement  of  the  dispute  with  Chile  re- 
garding the  seacoast  privileges,  which  had  been  going  on  ever  since  the  close  of  the  War 
of  the  Pacific.  While  Chile  concedes  no  port  to  Bolivia,  freedom  of  import  is  granted,  an 
indemnity  of  three  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling  is  paid,  and  Chile  agrees  to  spend 
two  million  pounds  sterling  in  building  railways  from  her  ports  to  the  Bolivian  interior. 

Never  in  the  history  of  the  republic  have  conditions  been  more  favorable,  politically 
and  financially,  for  national  development  and  prosperity.  Bolivia  has  no  foreign  debt.  The 
only  one  which  could  have  been  considered  such  was  a balance  of  claims  to  the  amount 
of  six  million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold,  held  principally  by  Chileans  as  indem- 
nities on  account  of  the  War  of  the  Pacific,  and  this  was  assumed  by  the  government  of 
Chile  in  agreement  with  the  terms  of  the  treaty  recently  signed  between  the  two  countries. 
On  the  other  hand,  Bolivia  has  at  her  disposal  large  credits  in  foreign  banks.  Of  the  two 
million  pounds  sterling  which  Brazil  paid  within  the  past  two  years  as  indemnity  for  the 
cession  of  a part  of  the  Acre  territory,  one  million  pounds  sterling  has  been  placed  on 
deposit  with  Rothschild  and  Sons  in  London,  and  one  million  pounds  sterling  with  the 
Comptoir  National  d’Escompte  of  Paris.  Both  of  these  sums  are  reserved  exclusively  for 
the  construction  of  projected  railways,  which,  it  is  calculated,  will  cost  from  four  to  five 
million  pounds  sterling.  In  addition  to  these  sums,  Bolivia  also  has,  in  the  Comptoir 
National  d’Escompte  of  Paris,  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pounds  sterling,  paid  by  Chile 
according  to  the  terms  of  the  treaty  previously  mentioned.  It  is  further  agreed  that  Chile  is 
to  pay  the  same  sum  next  year,  and  also  to  guarantee  the  interest,  at  the  rate  of  five  per 
cent  per  annum  for  thirty  years,  on  capital  invested  in  the  construction  of  the  following 
Bolivian  railways;  Uyuni  to  Potosi;  Oruro  to  La  Paz;  Oruro  to  Cochabamba  and  Cocha- 
bamba to  Santa  Cruz;  La  Paz  to  the  region  of  the  Beni;  Potosi  to  Sucre,  Lagunillas,  and 
Santa  Cruz;  this  guarantee  rests  on  the  condition  that  the  annual  expenses  of  this  obligation 
do  not  surpass  the  sum  of  one  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling.  Chile  is  also  obliged  by 
the  treaty  to  build  a railway  from  the  port  of  Arica  on  the  Pacific  coast  to  the  Altos  of  La  Paz. 


88 


BOLiyiA 


The  maximum  of  the  obligations  exacted  by  the  payment  of  the  above  interest  and  of  the 
part  of  the  railway  to  pass  through  Bolivian  territory  has  been  estimated  at  one  million 
seven  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling.  The  Bolivian  section  of  the  railway  from  Arica  to 
La  Paz  will  be  ceded  to  Bolivia  after  fifteen  years  from  the  date  of  its  completion.  From 
this  it  will  be  seen  that  Bolivia,  instead  of  being  in  debt  to  foreign  countries,  as  are  other 
South  American  republics,  has  important  credits  which  have  already  attracted  foreign  capital, 
and  must,  in  the  future,  continue  to  invite  increased  investments  from  foreigners. 

The  administration  of  President  Montes  places  Bolivia  in  line  with  the  countries  which, 
at  the  beginning  of  the  twentieth  century,  are  combining  their  forces  to  make  this  the 
Golden  Age  of  the  New  World.  All  eyes  are  turned  now  toward  the  Western  Hemisphere, 
and  although  at  the  present  moment  universal  interest  is  more  absorbed  in  the  northern 
than  in  the  southern  continent,  the  popular  gaze  is  sure  to  be  directed  soon,  with  the  same 
attraction,  to  the  great  land  south  of  the  Isthmus,  and  it  may  be  expected  to  rest  with 
especial  concentration  on  the  twentieth  century  Bolivia. 


GENERAL  CLODOMIRO  MONTES. 


CLOSING  SESSIONS  OF  THE  NATIONAL  CONGRESS  OF  1905,  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  V 


THE  NATIONAL  CONSTITUTION 

Bolivian  constitution  is  one  of  the  most  liberal  in  South 
nerica.  Out  of  the  Constitiicidn  Boliviano,  given  by  the 
eat  liberator  in  the  first  days  of  the  republic,  has  been 
evolved  the  code  of  the  government  as  it  stands 
to-day,  a credit  to  the  democratic  principles  of  the 
nation  and  a monument  to  the  good  judgment  of  its 
leaders,  establishing  the  sovereign  rule  of  the  majority 
in  the  common  interest  of  the  whole  people.  It  is 
a reflection  of  the  patriotic  sentiments  and  the  clear 
judgment  of  those  who  framed  it,  and  in  adhering  to 
its  principles  the  Bolivian  nation  need  take  no  second 
place  in  the  political  progress  of  the  twentieth  century. 

The  present  constitution  was  adopted  October  28, 
1880,  under  the  presidency  of  General  Campero,  and 
few  amendments  have  been  made  since  its  inaugura- 
tion. By  its  terms  the  republic  of  Bolivia  is  constituted 
a sovereign  and  independent  nation,  under  a Unitarian^ 
democratic  representative  government.  The  exercise 
of  its  sovereign  powers  is  vested  in  the  legislative,  executive,  and  judiciary  branches  of  the 
government,  each  of  which  is  independent  of  the  others. 

The  legislative  power  is  in  the  hands  of  a national  Congress,  consisting  of  two  cham- 
bers, the  Camara  de  Diputados,  or  House  of  Representatives,  and  the  Camara  de  Senadores, 
or  the  Senate.  The  Camara  de  Diputados  is  composed  of  seventy-two  members,  elected 
by  direct  vote  of  the  people  for  a term  of  four  years,  the  camara  being  renewed  by  halves, 
every  two  years.  To  qualify  for  a deputy  the  citizen  must  be  twenty-five  years  of  age  and 
have  an  annual  income  of  two  hundred  bolivianos.  The  Camara  de  Senadores  consists  of 
sixteen  members,  two  for  each  department.  The  senators  are  also  elected  by  a direct  vote 

91 


92 


BOLiyiA 


of  the  people,  the  senatorial  term  being  for  six  years,  with  a renewal  by  thirds  every  two 
years.  A senator  must  be  thirty-five  years  of  age  and  have  an  annual  income  of  four 
hundred  bolivianos.  Senators  and  deputies  may  be  reelected  indefinitely.  Congress  meets 

annually,  usually  opening  on  the 
6th  of  August,  in  the  capital  of 
the  republic,  unless  for  sufficient 
reason  it  is  convoked  to  meet  else- 
where. The  regular  session  lasts 
sixty  days,  though  it  may  be  ex- 
tended to  ninety  days.  Extraordi- 
nary sessions  may  be  assembled  by 
a concurrent  vote  of  the  majority  of 
both  camaras,  or  by  proclamation 
of  the  executive,  giving  the  place, 
time,  and  object  of  such  session. 
The  first  vice-president  of  the  re- 
public is  also  president  of  the  Senate 
and  of  Congress.  The  legislative 
power  provides  for  the  necessities 
of  the  state,  dictating  its  laws  in 
accordance  with  the  precepts  of  the 
constitution. 

The  executive  power  is  vested 
in  the  president  and  two  vice- 
presidents  of  the  republic,  whose 
authority  is  exercised  through  the 
secretaries  or  members  of  the  Cabi- 
net. The  president  and  vice-presi- 
dents are  elected  every  four  years 
by  direct  vote  of  the  people,  and  are 
ineligible  for  the  next  succeeding 
term.  In  case  that  no  candidate 
HIS  GRACE  ARCHBISHOP  piFFERi  OF  LA  PLATA,  SUCRE.  obtuiiTS  an  absolute  plui'ality  of 

votes,  Congress  then  chooses  the 
three  who  hold  the  highest  majority,  and  by  its  vote  decides  the  successful  candidate. 
The  president  directs  the  foreign  policy,  manages  the  public  interest,  is  commander-in-chief 
of  the  army,  and  patron  of  the  official  Church.  The  vice-presidents  are  appointed  to  take 
charge  of  the  presidential  duties  successively  in  case  of  the  resignation,  absence,  or  death  of 
the  president,  the  qualifications  for  first  or  second  vice-presidents  being  the  same  as  for  a 
senator,  except  that  they  must  necessarily  be  native  born  Bolivians.  By  appointment  of 


THE  NATIONAL  CONSTITUTION 


93 


the  president,  six  secretaries  form  a Cabinet  of  State  to  assist  tlie  chief  executive  in  the 
various  departments  of  the  administration:  these  ministers  are  jointly  responsible  with 
the  president  for  all  administrative  acts  in  their  respective  offices,  and  the  ministers  are 
jointly  responsible  for  all  acts  performed  in  their  Cabinet  meetings.  Decrees  and  orders 
issued  by  the  president  must  also  bear  the  signature  of  the  minister  or  secretary  of  the 
respective  departments,  to  be  enforced.  Cabinet  ministers  may  take  part  in  the  debates 
of  either  chamber  of  Congress,  but  must  leave  the  place  before  a vote  is  cast.  Each 
minister  is  required  to  send  to  Congress,  at  its  opening  session  annually,  a complete  report 
of  the  work  done  in  his  department  during  the  year. 

The  judiciary  power  of  the  government  is  represented  by  a National  Supreme  Court, 
Superior  District  Courts,  Lower  District  Courts,  courts  for  the  preparation  of  criminal  cases, 
and  parochial  courts.  The  Supreme  Court  resides  in  Sucre,  the  capital  of  the  republic,  and 
consists  of  seven  ministers  of  justice,  appointed  by  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  from  a ternary 
list,  submitted  by  the  Senate.  To  be  eligible  to  the  supreme  bench,  it  is  necessary  to  be  a 
Bolivian  by  birth  or  naturalization,  to  be  not  less  than  forty-five  years  of  age,  to  have 
resided  permanently  in  the  country  for  five  years,  to  have  been  a judge  in  a superior  court 
of  justice  or  district  attorney  for  f ve  years,  and  to  have  been  a pracfsing  lawyer  in  good 
standing  for  ten  years.  -According  to  the  constitution,  the  duties  of  the  Supreme  Court,  in 
addition  to  those  devolving  upon  it  by  virtue  of  the  laws  of  the  nation,  are,  in  general 
terms:  To  hear  and  determine  on  appeals  for  the  reversing  of  a sentence  passed  by  the 
lower  courts,  and  to  establish  the  chief  points  at  issue;  to  hear  and  determine  on  all 
questions  of  a purely  legal  nature,  upon  the  decision  of  which  depends  the  consftu- 
tionality  of  a law,  decree,  or  other  resolution ; to  hear  and  determine  all  cases  concerning 
the  responsibility  of  diplomatic  and  consular  agents,  judges  of  the  superior  courts,  district 
attorneys,  and  other  public  officers  for  offences  committed  in  the  discharge  of  their  respective 
duties : to  hear  and  determine  on  cases  arising  from  contracts,  negotiations,  and  concessions 
granted  by  the  executive  power,  and  on  suits  brought  against  the  executive,  arising  from 
executive  action ; to  hear  and  determine  on  matters  relating  to  the  national  patronage 
exercised  by  the  supreme  government,  and  to  settle  controversies  between  municipal 
councils,  between  these  and  the  political  authorities,  and  between  either  of  them  and  the 
provincial  municipal  boards.  Publicity  of  judicial  proceedings  is  the  essential  condition  of 
the  administration  of  justice,  except  in  cases  which  might  offend  against  public  morals. 

The  Ministerio  Publico,  or  Fiscal,  a judicial  organization,  is  established  to  protect  the 
constitutional  guarantees  and  to  see  to  the  fulfilment  of  the  laws.  Its  ministers,  or  fi scales, 
are  agents  of  the  executive  power,  and  in  the  tribunals  represent  the  interests  of  society. 
The  administration  of  justice  is  gratuitous.  The  highest  authority  of  the  ministerio,  called 
a fiscal  general,  is  an  official  elected  by  the  executive  for  a period  of  ten  years  from  a ternary 
proposed  by  the  Camara  de  Diputados.  He  cooperates  with  the  Supreme  Court  in  decisions 
relating  to  justice,  and  with  the  executive  in  matters  of  administration.  He  is  assisted  in  the 
discharge  of  his  duties  by  district  fiscales,  who  have  charge  of  the  duties  of  the  Ministerio 


94 


BOLiyiA 


Publico  in  each  department;  their  relation  with  the  Superior  District  Court  is  the  same  as 
that  existing  between  the  fiscal  general  and  the  Supreme  Court.  They  supervise  the 
administration  of  the  public  treasury  and  form  part  of  the  Board  of  Public  Auction.  The 
f scales  de  partido  and  agentes  fiscales  rank  in  inferior  importance,  exercising  supervision  in 
matters  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  lower  district  courts,  the  prefectures,  and  the  munici- 
palities. There  is  also  a fiscal  de  gobierno,  who  advises  in  matters  of  public  administration. 

Under  the  constitution,  the  government  of  each  of  the  eight  departments  into  which 
the  state  is  divided  is  placed  in  the  hands  of  a prefect,  who,  by  virtue  of  his  office,  is  also  a 
colonel  in  the  army,  and  directly  responsible  to  the  executive  power.  He  is  appointed  by 
the  president  of  the  republic,  and  is  the  immediate  representative  or  agent  of  the  executive 


LEGISLATIVE  PALACE,  SUCRE. 

power,  having  under  his  jurisdiction  ail  public  functionaries  of  whatever  class  and  denomi- 
nation within  the  limit  of  his  department;  he  is  elected  for  a term  of  four  years.  The 
president  also  appoints  the  sub-prefects,  who  govern  the  provinces;  the  corregidores,  or 
district  authorities,  and  the  alcaldes  territoriales,  or  petty  justices  of  the  smaller  subdivisions, 
are  appointed  by  the  prefect.  The  alcaldes  lerritoriales  are  quite  distinct  in  their  official 
capacity  from  the  chief  municipal  authority,  the  mayor,  who  is  also  called  alcalde.  In 
addition  to  the  political  administration  of  the  departments,  there  is  in  each  department  capital 
a Municipal  Council,  and  in  each  provincial  capital  and  river  port  a Municipal  Board,  or  junta. 
Municipal  agents  are  appointed  annually  by  the  respective  juntas  of  the  provinces,  with 
authority  in  the  smaller  subdivisions  known  as  cantons.  In  the  more  important  departments 


THE  NATIONAL  CONSTITUTION 


% 


the  municipal  councils  consist  of  twelve  members,  while  in  others  there  are  nine.  These 
corporations  have  authority  to  make  mutual  agreements  or  contracts  for  the  construction  and 
maintenance  of  roads  and  highways  between  two  or  more  of  their  respective  departments, 
whenever  such  agreements  affect  the  revenue  or  moneys  of  the  municipal  treasuries  of  the 
departments  interested. 

Besides  the  divisions  of  the  republic  into  departments,  provinces,  and  cantons,  there  are 
ecclesiastical  divisions  in  conformity  with  the  terms  of  the  national  constitution,  by  which  the 
chief  executive  is  the  patron  of  the  ecclesiastical  government  of  the  country.  The  established 
church  of  Bolivia  is,  according  to  law,  the  Roman  Catholic,  one  of  the  clauses  of  the 
constitution  reading:  “The  State  recognizes  and  supports  the  Roman  Apostolic  Catholic 
religion,  the  public  exercise  of  any  other  worship  being  prohibited,  except  in  the  Colonies, 
where  it  is  tolerated.”  It  is  necessary  to  add  that  in  the  legislature  of  190J  a bill  was 
introduced  declaring  the  necessity  for  changing  the  last  part  of  this  clause  to  read:  “the 
public  exercise  of  all  other  worships  being  permitted.”  The  passage  of  this  bill  places 
Bolivia  in  the  vai'iguard  among  the  Spanish-American  countries,  so  far  as  religious  freedom 
is  concerned.  The  ecclesiastical  divisions  consist  of  one  archbishopric  and  three  bishoprics. 
The  archbishopric  of  La  Plata  embraces  the  departments  of  Chuquisaca,  Potosi,  Oruro,  and 
Tarija,  having  the  cathedral  church  at  Sucre,  and  covering  a territory  of  nearly  five  hundred 
thousand  square  kilometres,  with  a population  of  about  eight  hundred  thousand.  It  has 
authority  over  one  hundred  and  forty-six  parishes,  f ve  monasteries,  and  three  colleges  for 
the  propagation  of  the  Faith.  The  cathedral  church  was  erected  into  an  episcopal  see  in 
and  raised  to  an  archbishopric  in  1609.  Five  bishops  and  twenty-eight  archbishops  have 
successively  ruled  the  diocese  up  to  the  present  time.  The  archbishop  is  appointed  by  the 
executive  from  a teriiary  list  submitted  by  the  Senate.  The  bishops  are  appointed  in 
the  same  way.  The  bishopric  of  La  Paz,  created  in  160^  by  Pope  Paul  V.,  contains  one 
hundred  and  two  parishes,  three  convents,  two  monasteries,  and  a missionary  college.  The 
bishopric  of  Cochabamba,  erected  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  in  1847,  has  sixty-nine  parishes,  three 
monasteries,  a convent,  and  a missionary  college.  The  bishopric  of  Santa  Cruz,  which 
includes  the  department  of  the  Beni  as  well  as  that  of  Santa  Cruz,  was  also  established  in 
1607,  and  has  at  present  seventy-three  parishes  and  a missionary  home.  The  missionary 
work  of  the  Church  among  the  Indians  of  the  remote  districts,  where  Christian  teaching  can 
only  be  done  in  this  way,  is  in  charge  of  missionary  colleges  established  for  the  Propjgjmiii 
Fide,  there  being  at  present  about  eighteen  missions  in  the  heart  of  the  rubber  forests  and  in 
the  remote  wilds  of  the  Chaco.  Missionaries  have  gone  to  Bolivia  from  time  to  time,  repre- 
senting Protestant  church  societies  of  North  America  and  England,  but  their  chief  work  has 
been  teaching  and  proselyting.  They  have  not  relieved  the  Catholic  Church  of  any  of  its 
arduous  labors  among  the  indigenes.  Just  why  missionaries  should  be  sent  to  the  Spanish- 
Americans  any  more  than  to  the  Spaniards  is  a little  difficult  to  understand,  though  they 
have  undoubtedly  rendered  valuable  services  as  school  teachers,  in  spite  of  their  being 
handicapped  with  the  ill-chosen  title  of  “missionaries.” 


96 


BOLIVIA 


The  constitution  confirms  the  adoption  of  the  national  emblems,  and  the  national 
anniversaries  for  the  celebration  of  great  events  in  the  history  of  the  country.  The  Bolivian 
coat  of  arms  very  beautifully  and  artistically  symbolizes  the  resources  of  this  rich  country, 

and  is  emblematic  of  the  national  aspirations.  It  is  of 
elliptical  form,  the  band  which  marks  the  oval  having 
on  its  lower  half  nine  stars,  and  on  the  upper  half  the 
word  “ Bolivia.”  Within  the  oval  is  the  figure  of  the 
noble  Cerro  de  Potosi,  in  coloring  a faithful  reproduction 
of  that  wonderful  mountain  of  metal,  red,  brown,  purple, 
and  grey  in  spots  where  eager  miners  have  burrowed  into 
its  sides ; to  the  right  of  the  cerro  stands  an  alpaca,  the 
denizen  of  its  plateaux,  and  to  the  left  a sheaf  of  wheat 
and  a breadfruit  tree,  to  typify  the  wealth  of  its  valleys  and 
forests.  The  rising  sun,  bright  in  the  glory  of  its  beam- 
ing rays,  is  seen  behind  the  cerro.  On  each  side  of  the 
oval  are  three  national  flags  draped  in  graceful  folds, 
a cannon,  two  rifles;  an  Inca  hatchet  to  the  left  and  a 
liberty  cap  to  the  right  leave  just  space  enough  between, 
at  the  top  of  the  shield,  for  the  great  condor  of  the 
Andes,  posing  ready  for  flight,  in  the  midst  of  two 
wreaths  of  laurel  and  olive,  the  outside  field  being  pearl 
blue.  The  Cerro  de  Potosi  symbolizes  the  mineral,  the  sheaf  of  wheat  the  vegetable, 
and  the  alpaca  the  animal  kingdom;  the  rising  sun  represents  the  hopeful  future  of  the 
country,  the  nine  stars  stand  for  the  nine  departments  into  which  the  republic  was  divided, 
before  the  territorial  change  made  in  1905",  the  flags  are  emblematic  of  the  national  patriotism, 
the  rifles  and  cannon  represent  the  arms  of  defence,  the  laurel  is  for  victory,  and  the  olive 
for  peace,  the  condor,  to  which  tradition  attributes  the  faculty  of  seeing  through  infinite  space 
and  from  remote  distances,  is  chosen  because  it  bears  a significant  relation  to  the  dearest 
interests  of  the  beloved  country.  The  national  flag  is  tricolored,  formed  of  three  horizontal 
bands  of  red,  gold,  and  green,  of  ec]ual  width,  placed  with  the  red  across  the  top,  the  gold 
in  the  middle,  and  the  green  below.  In  the  centre  of  the  flag  is  the  national  coat  of  arms, 
between  two  branches  of  laurel  and  olive.  The  red  of  the  flag  symbolizes  the  animal 
kingdom ; the  gold  the  mineral ; and  the  green  the  vegetable.  The  national  holidays  are 
February  3d,  which  is  the  birthday  anniversary  of  General  Sucre;  July  24th,  General  Bolivar’s 
birthday;  August  6th,  Independence  Day;  and  December  9th,  the  anniversary  of  the  battle 
of  Ayacucho,  or  the  general  independence  day  of  all  Spanish  South  America.  Upon  these 
occasions  the  patriotism  of  the  people  bursts  forth  in  a flood  of  oratory,  and  the  churches 
are  filled  with  the  devout,  wlio  offer  prayers  for  the  prosperity  of  the  beloved  pairia. 

While  the  constitution  represents  a perfect  system  of  legislative,  executive,  and  judicial 
government,  its  most  remarkable  feature  is  shown  in  the  equitable  and  liberal  character  of 


SENOR  DR.  VALENTIN  ABECIA. 
SECOND  VICE-PRESIDENT  OF  BOLIVIA. 


THE  NATIONAL  CONSTITUTION 


97 


those  clauses  which  relate  to  the  guarantee  of  individual  rights  and  liberty.  In  conformity 
with  the  best  principles  of  freedom,  slavery  is  abolished,  all  slaves  becoming  free  upon  their 
arrival  in  Bolivian  territory.  Suffrage  is  granted  to  all  single  male  citizens  who  have  reached 
twenty-one  years  of  age  and  to  married  men  when  they  have  attained  the  age  of  eighteen, 
provided  they  are  able  to  read  and  write,  possess  an  income  of  two  hundred  bolivianos, 
and  that  their  names  are  inscribed  in  the  civil  register.  Personal  security  is  protected,  and 
torture  or  other  corporal  punishment  is  absolutely  forbidden  under  any  and  all  circumstances. 
The  death  penalty  is  abolished,  except  as  a punishment  for  murder,  parricide,  and  treason. 
Arrest  or  imprisonment  must  be  made  in  strict  accordance  with  the  law,  but  in  cases  of 
flagrante  delicto,  can  be  made  without  a warrant  and  by  any  person.  Civil  and  criminal 
law  apply  equally  to  all.  Political  offences  cannot  be  punished  by  confiscation  of  property. 
Political  and  civil  rights  are  freely  granted,  the  freedom  of  the  press  and  the  right  of  peace- 
able assembly  are  recognized,  any  lawful  trade  or  profession  may  be  pursued,  and  it  is 
permitted  to  teach  under  government  supervision.  The  sanctity  of  the  home  is  inviolable, 
all  property,  private  correspondence,  trademarks,  and  copyrights  are  protected,  and  private 


CALLE  DE  RECREO,  LA  PAZ. 


correspondence,  if  violated,  cannot  be  used  as  legal  evidence.  The  public  debt,  and  all 
contracts  and  agreements  entered  into  by  the  state,  according  to  law,  are  guaranteed.  The 
right  of  transit  throughout  the  republic  is  free,  except  as  restricted  by  international  law. 


98 


BOLIVIA 


As  the  constitution  provides  that  “all  men  enjoy  in  Bolivia  the  same  civil  rights,  the 
exercise  of  which  is  regulated  by  civil  law,”  the  foreigner  receives  due  consideration.  If  he 
wishes  to  become  a citizen,  he  may  declare  this  intention  before  the  municipal  authorities 
wherever  his  place  of 
after  having  been  a 
lie  for  one  year,  or  he 
cate  of  naturalization 
the  Chamber  of  Dep- 
enjoys  the  immunities 
sons  of  the  country: 
test  his  political  and 
molestation ; he  pays 
native  Bolivian,  and  is 
the  army.  As  a citizen 
deputy,  senator,  min- 
of  justice,  prefect,  gen- 
army.  The  foreigner 
in  any  part  of  the 
an  inducement  to  en- 
there  is  no  danger  of 
choose  to  seek  ad- 
less forests  of  the 
game  in  the  remote 
traveller  may  journey 
peacefully,  and,  in- 

of  Bolivia  are  as  safe  as  the  streets  of  a quiet  town  of  New  England.  Never  has  Bolivia 
faced  a more  promising  outlook  than  at  the  present  time,  when  peace  reigns  in  its  foreign 
and  domestic  relations ; when  industrial  progress  is  showing  greater  signs  of  activity  than 
ever  before:  when  public  instruction  is  broadening  out,  and  seeking  higher  levels:  and 
when,  as  the  president’s  message  of  190^  expresses  it,  there  is  “a  strongly  accentuated 
tendency  toward  the  improvement  of  the  national  finances.”  This  very  satisfactory  condition 
of  affairs  is  largely  due  to  the  superior  executive  and  administrative  ability  of  the  president, 
his  excellency,  General  Ismael  Montes,  who,  since  his  election  in  1904,  has  consecrated 
every  effort  to  promote  the  progress  and  well-being  of  his  country. 

One  of  the  youngest  presidents  in  the  world,  being  still  in  the  early  forties,  the  chief 
executive  of  Bolivia  exemplifies  in  his  life  and  character  the  highest  aspirations  of  patriotism 
and  public-spirited  enterprise.  President  Montes  is  by  birth  a Paceho,  as  natives  of  La  Paz 
are  called,  and  his  public  career  began  at  a very  early  age,  his  sterling  moral  qualities  and 
the  vig(jr  and  energy  of  his  mind  combining  to  make  him  a conspicuous  figure  among  the 
students  of  the  university  long  before  he  became  noted  as  a lawyer  of  ability  and  a journalist 


SENOR  DR.  MIGUEL  DE  LOS  SANTOS  TABORGA, 
THE  LATE  ARCHBISHOP  OF  LA  PLATA, 


residence  is  located, 
resident  of  the  repub- 
may  obtain  his  certifi- 
as  a concession  from 
uties.  In  any  case  he 
granted  by  the  law  to 
he  may  freely  mani- 
religious  ideas  without 
the  same  taxes  as  the 
not  obliged  to  serve  in 
he  may  be  appointed  a 
ister  of  state,  minister 
eral  or  captain  in  the 
may  make  his  home 
republic  that  offers 
terprise,  feeling  that 
molestation,  unless  he 
venture  in  the  track- 
Chaco  or  to  hunt  big 
regions  of  the  Beni.  A 
through  the  country 
deed,  the  rural  districts 


THE  NATIONAL  CONSTITUTION 


99 


famous  for  the  austerity  of  his  principles  and  his  uncompromising  fidelity  to  the  laws  of 
justice  and  equity.  In  the  midst  of  the  most  turbulent  crises  of  politics,  his  voice  and  his 
pen  have  always  been  guided  by  serene  and  unwavering  judgment.  It  was  soon  recognized 
that  the  young  politician  possessed  the  rare  qualities  of  a leader,  and  that  he  was  destined  to 
achieve  the  highest  positions  of  the  state.  When  the  Liberal  revolution  was  installed  in 
La  Paz,  he  rose  rapidly  in  the  esteem  of  the  Federal  party,  and  was  made  colonel  and  chief 
of  staff  of  the  army  which  under  General  Pando  defeated  and  overthrew  President  Alonso. 
Later,  as  minister  of  war  in  President  Pando’s  Cabinet,  his  genius  as  an  organizer  and  as  an 
executive  chief  became  noted  through  many  reforms,  and  the  fortitude  of  his  character  was 
evinced  in  an  especial  manner.  At  the  head  of  a division,  he  took  part  in  the  Acre  campaign 
against  Brazil,  marching  with  his  troops  across  the  mountains  and  through  the  forests  of 
northern  Bolivia  to  the  remote  frontier.  In  a second  expedition  to  Acre,  which  he  made  in 
company  with  President  Pando,  his  animated  and  audacious  spirit,  the  correctness  of  his 
manner  of  living,  and  the  strict  system  of  discipline  maintained  in  his  army,  as  well  as  the 
serenity  of  his  disposition  and  his  indefatigable  zeal,  so  completely  won  the  admiration  of 
his  countrymen,  that  he  began  to  be  looked  upon  as  their  choice  for  a political  chief,  and  to 
be  named  as  the  prospective  president  of  the  country.  The  proof  of  the  political  prestige 
which  he  had  gained  without  apparent  effort  is  seen  in  the  triumph  of  his  election,  with  its 
enormous  majority.  The  administration  of  President  Montes  is  marked  by  progress  in  every 
department,  of  a character  to  reveal  constantly  the  calm,  strong,  and  independent  judgment 
of  a statesman  who  looks  always  forward,  like  a good  helmsman  guiding  the  ship  of  state 
without  fear  and  without  favor  across  the  uncertain  sea  of  national  politics. 

The  president’s  first  representative,  Senor  Dr.  Don  Eliodoro  Villazon,  vice-president 
of  the  republic  and  president  of  the  national  Congress,  is  among  the  greatest  of  Bolivia’s 
statesmen.  His  career  has  been  one  of  marked  distinction,  not  only  during  the  present 
administration,  but  through  a long  period  of  devoted  service  to  his  country.  It  is  a 
pronounced  trait  of  his  character  that  “ his  word  is  as  good  as  his  bond,”  and  that  in  all  his 
acts  are  shown  a lofty  sense  of  duty  and  a firm  and  unwavering  purpose.  As  diplomatist, 
orator,  fnancier,  and  polifcian.  Dr.  Villazon  ranks  with  the  best  that  South  America  has 
produced,  and,  as  Mr.  Elihu  Root  observed  in  a recent  address  on  the  subject,  “there  are 
many  remarkably  good  statesmen  in  South  America.” 

The  second  vice-president,  Senor  Dr.  Don  Valentin  Abecia,  represents  the  best  ideals  of 
the  nation  in  his  sterling  character  and  superior  intellectual  gifts.  Dr.  Abecia  is  not  only  a 
statesman,  but  a scholar  as  well,  and  he  has  done  a great  deal  to  stimulate  a love  of  learning 
in  his  country.  As  president  of  the  Geographic  Society  of  Sucre,  and  as  director  of  the 
Medical  School,  his  name  is  associated  with  mociern  progress  in  Bolivia  along  the  lines  of 
research  and  scientifc  experiment.  In  politics.  Dr.  Abecia  is  esteemed  for  his  correct 
principles  and  scrupulous  honor. 

In  the  ecclesiastical  government  of  Bolivia  the  executive  is  represented  by  the  Arch- 
bishop of  La  Plata,  one  of  the  highest  dignitaries  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  reverenced 


100 


BOLIVIA 


for  his  great  piety  and  esteemed  for  rare  mental  gifts.  Archbishop  Pifferi  was  appointed 
to  succeed  the  mucli  beloved  Archbishop  Taborga,  by  whose  death  in  December,  1905', 
the  whole  Bolivian  nation  was  plunged  into  grief,  so  greatly  had  the  noble  prelate,  during 
a long  and  useful  lifetime,  endeared  himself  to  the  hearts  of  the  people.  The  present 
archbishop  is  of  Italian  birth,  and  is  fifty-eight  years  of  age.  He  came  to  Bolivia  first  as  a 
missionary  of  the  Franciscan  order  in  1872,  and  from  the  Franciscan  college  at  Tarija  he 
directed  his  labors  to  the  savage  districts  of  the  northern  Chaco,  where  he  became  very 
popular  with  the  Indians,  learning  their  language  and  constituting  himself  their  protector. 
From  this  “footstool  of  humility,’’  the  young  missionary  rose  to  be  prefect  of  missions,  then 
to  be  guardian  of  the  order  in  Tarija,  and  later  commissary-general  of  the  Franciscan  order  in 
Bolivia,  during  which  time  he  visited  every  mission  in  the  country,  travelling  two  thousand 
five  hundred  miles  on  muleback.  After  twenty-seven  years  in  Bolivia  he  returned  to  Rome, 
remaining  only  for  a short  time,  when  he  was  appointed  by  Pope  Leo  XIII.  Apostolic  Vicar 
of  the  Beni.  Soon  afterward.  Archbishop  Taborga,  with  the  approval  of  President  Montes, 
called  him  to  the  charge  of  archbishop’s  coadjutor,  with  the  right  of  succession,  and  he  was 
consecrated  in  Rome  in  October,  1907.  Archbishop  Taborga  died  before  the  arrival  of  his 
assistant:  and  as  soon  as  Archbishop  Pifferi  reached  La  Paz,  he  was  notified  of  his  succession 
to  the  archiepiscopal  see  by  the  foreign  minister,  Sehor  Don  Claudio  Pinilla,  who  is  also  the 
minister  of  worship.  The  illustrious  Bishop  of  La  Paz,  Dr.  Armentia,  is  one  of  the  most 
learned  churchmen  of  South  America,  and  the  Bishops  of  Cochabamba  and  Santa  Cruz  are 
devoted  propagandists  of  the  national  religion. 

Never  in  the  history  of  the  republic  have  the  ruling  powers  in  both  Church  and  state 
worked  with  greater  zeal  for  the  interests  of  national  progress  and  prosperity  than  under 
the  existing  government,  and  the  outlook  is  promising  for  the  advancement  of  the  country 
in  all  that  pertains  to  its  development. 


STREET  SCENE,  LA  I'AZ. 


THE  MINISTER  OF  FOREIGN  AFFAIRS  OF  BOLIVIA  IN  CONFERENCE  WITH  THE  FOREIGN  DIPLOMATIC  CORPS. 


CHAPTER  VI 


THE  PRESIDENT’S  CABINET— DEPENDENCIES  OF  THE  STATE  DEPARTMENT 

\ AHTH  a liberal  constitution  and  a president 
^ ’ ambitious  for  his  country’s  progress  and 
prosperity,  Bolivia  has  the  additional  guarantee 
of  good  government  assured  in  a judiciously 
chosen  Cabinet  of  state.  By  good  judgment  in 
the  appointment  of  his  ministers,  as  well  as 
in  other  acts  of  executive  authority,  President 
Montes  has  contributed  to  make  the  present  ad- 
ministration an  epoch  in  the  history  of  national 
progress. 

The  work  of  the  state  department  is  in 
charge  of  six  ministcrios : foreign  affairs  and 
worship,  government  and  promotion,  justice 
and  instruction,  finance  and  industry,  war, 
colonization  and  agriculture.  Through  the  de- 
partment of  foreign  affairs  the  international 
relations  of  the  government  are  maintained, 
foreign  treaties  are  made,  the  representatives 
of  the  government  abroad  are  appointed,  and 
all  details  of  the  administration  as  it  affects 
Bolivia’s  attitude  toward  other  nations  are  con- 
summated. Under  the  present  government  the  Foreign  Office  has  been  particularly  occupied 
with  the  settlement  of  boundary  questions,  and,  as  the  minister’s  annual  report  for  last  year 
shows,  with  very  satisfactory  results.  A problem  of  f rst  importance  to  Bolivia,  especially 
since  the  loss  of  its  seaboard,  has  been  that  of  establishing  the  frontiers  and  securing  neces- 
sary privileges  of  transportation  over  the  railroads,  and  of  shipment  through  the  seaports 

of  neighboring  republics.  Referring  to  this  purpose,  the  president  said  in  his  last  annual 

103 


SENOR  DON  CLAUDIO  PINILI.A,  MINISTER  OF 
FOREIGN  AFFAIRS. 


104 


BOLIVIA 


message  to  Congress:  “The  executive  has  not  believed  that  even  the  legitimate  and  patriotic 
aim  to  preserve  the  territorial  integrity  should  be  sufficient,  without  counting  upon  other 
elements,  to  stand  in  the  way  of  diplomatic  arrangements  counselled  by  reason  and  imposed 
by  circumstances.”  And,  he  adds,  with  correct  judgment:  “Bolivia  can  live  and  develop 
with  more  or  less  kilometres  of  territory,  but  it  cannot  do  so,  however  immeasurable  its 
extent,  without  industries,  without  credit,  without  economic  vitality.”  It  is  this  tone  of 
practical  statesmanship  which  animates  the  entire  Cabinet  as  well  as  the  president.  The 
minister  of  foreign  affairs,  Sehor  Don  Claudio  Pinilla,  is  particularly  well  equipped  for 
the  duties  of  his  office  at  this  time  when  boundary  questions  are  of  paramount  importance, 
having  rendered  his  country  valuable  services  in  settling  international  disputes  not  only 
under  the  present  government,  but  in  the  capacity  of  special  envoy  to  Brazil  during  General 
Pando’s  presidency,  when  he  succeeded  in  arranging  the  difficult  Acre  dispute  to  the  eminent 
credit  of  his  diplomatic  perspicacity.  A Paceho  by  birth,  Sehor  Pinilla  began  his  public 

career  in  his  twenty-fifth  year,  while  still  a student  of  law,  being  chosen  as  a member  of 

the  commission  sent  in  1883  to  Caraccas  to  carry  to  the  land  of  the  great  liberator  a message 
from  Bolivia  on  the  centenary  of  the  hero’s  birth.  In  1884  Sehor  Pinilla  received  his  degree 
as  a lawyer,  and  a year  later  he  entered  the  diplomatic  service,  being  appointed  secretary  of 
the  Bolivian  legation  in  Paraguay.  The  chief  work  of  the  legation  was  the  concluding  of  a 
treaty  of  limits  between  the  two  countries,  and  the  young  secretary,  who,  in  the  meantime, 
had  attracted  much  attention  by  his  clear  and  well-defined  discussion  of  international  ques- 
tions in  the  press,  remained  in  Paraguay  as  charge  d'affaires,  upon  the  return  of  the  minister 
after  the  treaty  settlement.  In  his  new  capacity  he  displayed  the  energy  of  a great  character 
by  his  close  study  and  complete  mastery  of  every  detail  that  concerned  his  country’s 

relation  with  Paraguay.  He  initiated  plans  for  its  improvement  through  the  opening  up 

of  new  roads  between  the  two  countries,  in  recognition  of  which  he  was  presented  with 
a gold  medal  by  the  national  Senate  of  Bolivia  in  1888.  From  Paraguay  Sehor  Pinilla  was 
called  to  be  secretary  to  the  president,  and  from  that  post  he  was  sent  to  Chile  as  secretary 
of  the  Bolivian  legation.  During  all  this  time  the  young  diplomat  devoted  his  attention 
especially  to  the  study  of  international  limits,  and  when  in  1896  he  was  appointed  minister 
to  Peru,  it  was  understood  that  he  had  been  chosen  because  of  his  complete  knowledge  of 
the  boundary  question,  the  chief  purpose  of  his  mission  to  Lima  being  to  represent  his 
government’s  interests  in  the  solution  of  this  difficult  problem.  It  was  during  his  residence 
at  Lima  that  the  Federal  party  of  La  Paz,  of  which  his  brother  Sehor  Don  Macario  Pinilla  was 
one  of  the  leaders,  declared  against  Alonso’s  government;  and  as  he  was  heartily  in  sympathy 
with  his  brother’s  cause,  he  resigned  the  post  of  minister  to  Peru  in  order  to  join  the  ranks 
of  the  revolutionists.  After  the  overthrow  of  President  Alonso  and  the  election  of  President 
Pando  he  was  sent  as  minister  to  Chile.  Later,  when  the  solution  of  the  Acre  territory 
dispute  between  Bolivia  and  Brazil  called  for  great  diplomacy  and  a thorough  knowledge  of 
boundary  questions,  the  government  found  in  Sehor  Pinilla  a representative  worthy  of  its 
utmost  confidence,  and  he  was  sent  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  accomplishing  the  purpose  of  his 


THE  PRESIDENT'S  CABINET 


los 

mission  with  signal  success.  As  a statesman  his  knowledge  of  human  nature,  his  keen 
observation  and  unfailing  discretion,  and  the  enthusiasm  of  his  energy  in  promoting  the 
interests  of  his  country  have  won  for  him  the  general  respect  of  the  people. 

Through  the  Foreign  Office  the  relations  of  the  government  with  its  diplomatic  and 
consular  representatives  are  sustained,  many  of  whom  are  among  the  country’s  best  statesmen 
and  scholars,  and  in  charge  of  its  legations  in  London,  Paris,  Washington,  and  other  foreign 
capitals.  The  Bolivian  minister  at  the  Court  of  Saint  James,  Dr.  Fernando  E.  Guachalla,  is 
one  of  the  most  gifted  of  South  American  diplomats.  His  experience  has  been  gained  in 
several  very  difficult  missions,  in  which  he  acquitted  himself  with  distinction.  After  the  treaty 
of  Ancon,  by  which  Peru  withdrew  from  alliance  with  Bolivia,  Sehor  Guachalla  was  sent  to 


RECEPTION  ROOM  OF  THE  FOREIGN  OFFICE,  LA  PAZ. 


Lima  as  secretary  of  the  Bolivian  legation,  remaining  as  charge  d'affaires  when  the  minister 
returned.  In  this  post,  of  special  importance  at  such  a time,  he  proved  himself  possessed  of 
superior  diplomatic  ability,  and  here  he  laid  the  foundation  of  a career  remarkable  in  fruitful 
results  and  increasing  in  importance,  as  the  extraordinary  talents  of  the  man  became  better 
known  and  recognized.  When  the  revolution  of  1891,  which  was  first  federalist  and  then  lib- 
eral and  reactionary,  was  installed.  Dr.  Guachalla  was  made  secretary-general  of  its  governing 
board:  and  after  the  establishment  of  General  Pando’s  government,  he  was  appointed  minister 
of  foreign  affairs.  At  the  head  of  a special  mission  he  visited  Mexico,  and  was  one  of  the 
leading  fgures  in  the  Pan-American  Congress  there;  soon  afterward  he  received  the  appoint- 
ment of  minister  to  Washington.  It  was  during  his  stay  at  the  capital  of  the  United  States  that 


io6 


BOLIVIA 


the  complications  of  the  Acre  difficulty  began  to  approach  an  international  crisis,  and  from 
Washington  his  government  sent  him  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  confer  with  Minister  Pinilla  in 
the  negotiations  for  the  settlement  of  that  thorny  question  with  Brazil.  Like  Sehor  Pinilla, 

Dr.  Guachalla  has  given  especial  attention  to 
the  boundary  question.  After  the  conclusion 
of  the  Acre  affair  he  was  appointed  minister 
to  Buenos  Aires,  where  he  was  called  upon  to 
discuss  problems  connected  with  the  Argen- 
tine arbitration  of  the  Peru-Bolivian  boundary 
dispute,  which  required  skilful  judgment  and 
an  accurate  knowledge  of  the  subject.  In  1906 
Dr.  Guachalla  was  appointed  to  his  present 
post  as  Bolivian  minister  at  the  court  of  Great 
Britain. 

At  Paris  and  Berlin  the  legation  of  Bolivia 
is  in  charge  of  Sehor  Don  Francisco  Argandoha, 
Prince  de  Glorieta,  whose  magnificent  property 
is  one  of  the  show  places  of  Sucre,  though 
the  prince  and  princess  live  chiefly  in  Paris, 
where  they  are  well  known  and  much  be- 
loved. As  a prince  of  the  papal  court,  the 
minister  has  great  influence  in  church  circles, 
and  as  Bolivia’s  richest  banker  his  word  is 
important  in  the  financial  world.  He  is  a clever  diplomatist,  and  has  been  successful  in 
settling  important  international  questions.  The  government  is  represented  at  Washington 
by  one  of  the  most  experienced  diplomats  in  the  foreign  service,  Sehor  Don  Ignacio  Calderon, 
who  has  lived  at  the  North  American  capital  for  many  years.  His  influence  has  been 
valuable  in  promoting  the  friendly  relations  that  exist  between  the  two  countries,  politically 
and  commercially.  His  distinguished  wife  is  a native  of  the  United  States,  and  his  children 
were  born  in  that  country. 

In  the  recent  negotiations  between  Bolivia  and  Peru  regarding  their  commercial  rela- 
tions, which  had  been  unfavorably  affected  by  Bolivia’s  treaty  with  Chile,  the  Bolivian 
minister  at  Lima,  Sehor  Don  Benedicto  Goitia,  whose  ability  as  a politician  and  a parliamen- 
tarian places  him  among  the  leaders  of  his  country,  was  called  upon  to  act  on  behalf  of 
Bolivian  interests,  and  the  success  of  his  mission  won  the  applause  of  his  countrymen.  The 
Bolivian  highlands  have  given  to  the  world  more  than  one  diplomat  of  extraordinary  talent, 
entitled  to  be  named  among  the  most  distinguished  representatives  of  the  great  world 
powers.  Force  of  will  and  fearlessness  seem  to  be  the  predominating  characteristics  of  the 
people  of  the  region.  Perhaps  the  free  air  of  the  altitude  “above  the  heights  to  which  fear 
may  climb”  favors  a dispassionate  study  of  one’s  fellowman,  his  strength  and  his  weakness. 


SENOR  DON  ANIBAL  CAPRILES, 
MINISTER  OF  GOVERNMENT  AND  PROMOTION. 


THE  PRESIDENT'S  CABINET 


107 

and  the  will  is  more  able  to  assert  itself  because  sure  of  its  power.  Considering  the  limited 
scope  allowed  for  the  exercise  of  his  talent,  the  Bolivian  diplomat  has  frequently  shown 
wonderful  qualities;  and  as  in  the  twentieth  century  diplomacy  bids  fair  to  be  a more 
important  national  equipment  in  any  country  than  a strong  army  and  navy,  it  is  essential 
that  this  branch  of  the  government  should  receive  especial  attention. 

The  department  of  government  and  public  works,  or,  as  it  is  called,  Ministerio  de 
Gobierno  y Fomento,  directs  the  affairs  of  the  interior  as  distinct  from  foreign  affairs.  Every- 
thing relating  to  departmental,  provincial,  and  municipal  government,  and  the  promotion  of 
public  works  is  under  the  supervision  of  this  ministerio,  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  important 
branches  of  the  administration,  particularly  at  present,  when  the  government  is  devoting 
constant  and  profound  attention  to  the  improvement  of  its  political  system  and  the  develop- 
ment of  public  works.  In  the  annual  report  of  this  department  recently  presented  to 
Congress,  it  is  seen  that  many  reforms  have  been  made  in  matters  affecting  the  well-being 
of  society,  such  as  sanitation,  police  surveillance,  the  protection  of  the  Indian  from  abuses  of 
the  petty  authorities,  and  the  better  regulation  of  the  government’s  mail  service.  Bolivia 
is  a member  of  the  Universal  Postal  Union ; newspapers  and  printed  matter  are  mailed  free 
to  any  point  within  the  republic  : the  law  pun- 
ishes severely  any  tampering  with  the  mail  or 
fraudulent  use  of  its  privileges.  The  system  of 
post-office  money  orders  has  been  established 
between  Bolivia  and  the  principal  foreign 
countries,  and  a parcel  post  service  was  re- 
cently adopted  between  Bolivia  and  the  United 
States.  The  annual  report  of  the  director- 
general  of  post  offices,  Sehor  Dr.  Victor  Sanjines, 
shows  that  seven  hundred  and  seventy-nine 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  ninety  letters, 
packages,  etc.,  were  received  from  foreign 
sources,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty-five  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  and  seventeen  sent  to 
foreign  addresses  last  year.  The  internal  mail 
service  shows  the  receipts  and  despatching 
of  mail  to  have  been  about  equal,  nearly  two 
million  letters.  The  foreign  correspondence  is 
despatched  through  the  ports  of  Peru,  Chile, 
and  Argentina,  according  to  agreement  with 
those  countries.  In  the  interior  of  the  republic 
there  is  a weekly  service  to  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  the  more  accessible  districts  have 
semi-weekly  delivery  of  mails.  Germany  ranks  first  on  the  list  of  foreign  correspondence 
other  than  South  American,  France  and  the  United  States  coming  next  about  evenly.  The 


SENOR  DON  JUAN  M.  SARACHO. 
MINISTER  OF  JUSTICE  AND  INSTRUCTION. 


io8 


BOLIVIA 


minister’s  report  shows  a marked  improvement  in  the  revenues  from  the  mail  service,  both 
foreign  and  domestic ; last  year’s  returns  noting  an  increase  of  fifteen  thousand  bolivianos 
over  those  of  the  previous  year.  In  public  works,  which  are  under  the  supervision  of  this 
department,  in  the  branch  of  fomeiito,  or  promotion,  progress  has  been  stimulated  as  never 
before  in  the  history  of  the  country,  the  uppermost  question  at  the  present  moment  in  the 
councils  of  state  being  the  construction  of  a great  system  of  railroads  in  accordance  with  a 
plan  which  aims  to  unite  the  most  thickly  populated  centres,  and  proposes  to  bring  railway 
facilities  to  the  mining  districts  and  to  promote  commercial  interchange  on  the  Amazon,  the 
Paraguay,  the  La  Plata,  and  the  Pacific.  The  minister  of  this  department.  Dr.  Anibal  Capriles, 
voices  the  national  sentiment  in  his  report  to  Congress  this  year, when  he  says:  “We  aspire 
to  gradual,  homogeneous  development  by  our  own  efforts,  and  this  is  the  policy  which  the 
present  administration  seeks  to  carry  out,  with  the  support  of  the  best  popular  element  and 
upon  the  ample  basis  of  justice  and  right.  As  should  be  the  case,  the  administration  recog- 
nizes neither  political  parties  nor  territorial  circumscriptions;  eminently  national,  it  has  acted 
with  equal  zeal  in  all  sections  of  the  republic,  studying  the  most  urgent  necessities  and 
seeking  to  make  the  improvements  respond  to  legitimate  interests.  The  plan  of  the  govern- 
ment has  been,  in  brief,  to  work  steadily  and  surely  under  the  shelter  of  order  and  liberty.” 
Dr.  Capriles  is  himself  an  indefatigable  worker,  with  extraordinary  executive  ability,  and 
under  his  systematic  direction  of  affairs,  the  various  branches  of  his  department  despatch 
daily  an  enormous  amount  and  variety  of  work.  A native  of  Cochabamba,  Dr.  Capriles 
received  his  earliest  lessons  in  patriotism  and  political  science  in  that  city.  While  a student 
at  the  university  he  became  associated  with  the  brightest  minds  of  the  country  in  the  publi- 
cation of  periodicals  devoted  to  the  liberal  principles  which  are  represented  in  the  present 
government.  He  was  the  leader  of  the  opposition  during  Alonso’s  administration,  and 
became  the  head  of  the  revolutionary  party  in  Cochabamba,  which  seconded  the  movement 
in  La  Paz,  in  1898,  contributing  to  bring  about  the  change  that  resulted  in  the  establishment 
of  the  present  governing  power.  Elected  second  vice-president  by  the  conventional  assem- 
bly and  appointed  minister  of  government  two  years  later.  Dr.  Capriles  has  held  high  offices 
in  the  administrations  of  President  Pando  and  President  Montes,  having  been  acting  presi- 
dent during  the  six  months  that  General  Pando  was  with  his  army  in  the  Acre  territory. 
Dr.  Capriles  is  a writer  of  distinguished  ability,  and  his  biography  of  General  Sucre  is  one 
of  the  valued  contributions  to  South  American  literature. 

Impressed  with  the  necessity  for  giving  increased  attention  to  the  administration  of 
justice  and  public  instruction,  the  present  government  has  initiated  important  reforms  in 
this  department  in  accordance  with  the  suggestions  of  the  minister,  Sehor  Don  Juan  M. 
Saracho,  who  has  made  a careful  study  of  existing  conditions  and  the  possibilities  of 
improvement.  A characteristic  feature  of  the  present  Cabinet  is  the  absolute  fearlessness 
of  its  attitude,  collectively  and  individually,  in  treating  of  any  evils  of  the  body  politic  which 
require  amendment.  The  period  of  soothing  and  flattering  messages  to  Congress  has  passed 
with  the  gold-laced  poseur  whom  tradition  loves  to  picture  in  Spanish-American  politics; 


THE  PRESIDENT’S  CABINET 


109 


and  the  annual  report  of  a Cabinet  minister  to-day  may  be  expected  to  present  a true  idea 
of  the  actual  state  of  affairs  in  his  department.  Senor  Saracho  gives  the  result  of  his  year’s 
administration  in  clear-cut  phrases,  urging  reform  where  needed,  and  expressing  satisfaction 
where  progress  has  been  encouraging.  In  every  branch  there  is  the  manifest  determination 
to  strengthen  the  efficiency  of  the  public  service,  to  cut  off  whatever  is  useless  and  cumber- 
some and  to  build  up  a perfect  system.  The  question  of  public  instruction  occupies  a very 
prominent  place  in  Senor  Saracho’s  department,  and  public  opinion  has  not  been  slow  to 
grasp  the  importance  of  establishing  schools  in  every  part  of  the  republic  upon  a more 
advanced  basis  than  that  formerly  existing,  when  the  primary  school  was  unknown  and  the 


OFFICES  OF  THE  MINISTER  OF  JUSTICE  AND  INSTRUCTION. 


university  was  within  reach  of  only  a favored  few.  The  present  minister  of  instruction 
proposes  fewer  universities  and  a greater  number  of  primary  schools,  which  is  the  only  prac- 
tical basis  of  popular  education.  In  accordance  with  the  liberal  views  which  he  has  held 
throughout  his  public  career,  Senor  Saracho  believes  in  the  right  of  every  citizen  to  share 
the  privileges  of  public  instruction,  and  he  regards  this  as  one  of  the  great  principles  of 
national  progress.  He  has  devoted  much  attention  to  questions  of  education,  and  long 
before  his  appointment  to  the  Cabinet,  when  as  a rising  lawyer  he  made  his  home  in 
Potosi  after  being  graduated  from  the  university  in  Sucre,  he  was  recognized  as  an  enthu- 
siastic advocate  of  popular  education.  Although  a native  of  Tarija,  Senor  Saracho’s  home 
has  been  for  many  years  in  Potosi.  Upon  the  fall  of  President  Alonso’s  government  he  was 


I lO 


BOLIVIA 


elected  representative  from  that  city  to  the  national  convention  at  Oruro,  in  October,  1899, 
where  he  became  president  of  the  committee  on  the  constitution,  and  vice-president  of  the 
assembly.  After  the  close  of  its  sessions  he  was  appointed  rector  of  the  University  of 

Potosi,  and  he  remained  in  this  post  until 
elected  senator  from  the  department  of  Tarija 
in  1902,  being  chosen  secretary  of  the  Senate  in 
1903.  At  the  close  of  1903  President  Pando 
called  him  to  the  ministry  of  justice  and  public 
instruction,  and  upon  his  resignation  at  the  end 
of  President  Pando’s  term  of  office,  he  was 
again  appointed  by  President  Montes.  Sehor 
Saracho  possesses  a thorough  knowledge  of 
existing  conditions  in  his  country  and  has 
absolute  confidence  in  its  future  greatness. 
His  optimism  is  wholesome,  genial,  and  of  a 
character  to  inspire  a like  sentiment  in  all  who 
come  within  the  influence  of  his  singularly 
magnetic  voice. 

As  the  treasury  is  the  barometer  by  which 
a nation  judges  its  “weather  prospect”;  and 
as  the  prosperity  or  depression  of  indus- 

SENOR  DON  DANIEL  DEL  CASTILLO,  MINISTER  OF  FINANCE. 

trial  activity  is  a sure  indication  of  general 
conditions,  the  department  of  finance  and  industry  has  especial  interest  from  an  economic 
standpoint.  Under  its  direction  all  the  financial  operations  of  the  government  are  consum- 
mated. The  general  income  of  the  republic  is  divided  into  national,  departmental,  and 
municipal  revenues.  The  national  revenue  arises  from  customs  taxes;  duties  on  the 
exportation  of  silver,  tin,  copper,  bismuth,  gold,  and  rubber;  imports  paid  by  anonymous 
societies  and  mining  enterprises;  bridge  tolls;  imported  alcohols  and  agiiardientes ; consular 
bills,  mortgages,  trademarks,  mining  patents,  stamped  paper,  and  stamps;  the  mint,  the 
state  telegraph,  land  taxes,  pensions,  and  university  degrees.  The  national  resources  have 
been  increased  recently  by  the  Brazilian  and  Chilean  indemnities.  These  sums  will  be  spent 
in  the  construction  of  railroads.  The  national  revenues  are  administered  by  the  director  of 
the  national  treasury  in  accordance  with  the  budgets  of  the  various  mhiistcrios  endorsed  by 
the  minister  of  finance.  The  departmental  revenues  arise  chiefly  from  the  territorial  con- 
tribution of  Indians,  taxes  on  landed  property,  duties  on  the  importation  and  exportation  of 
cattle,  on  legacies,  tithes,  taxes  on  hides  and  skins,  and  from  other  sources  peculiar  to  each 
department.  The  departmental  funds  are  administered  by  the  director  of  the  public  treasury 
in  each  department.  Congress  discusses  and  votes  the  general  budget,  national  and  depart- 
mental, annually,  designating  the  revenues  and  determining  the  expenses;  the  minister  of 
finance  and  the  prefects  of  the  departments  supervise  the  disposal  of  the  budget  in  accordance 


THE  PRESIDENT’S  CABINET 


1 1 1 


with  the  decision  of  Congress.  The  annual  budget  balances  at  about  ten  million  bolivianos. 
As  has  been  said,  Bolivia  has  no  external  debt;  the  internal  debt  is  stated  at  four  million 
bolivianos.  A national  office  of  public  credit  is  charged  to  certify  the  internal  debt.  A 
national  tribunal  of  accounts  exists  for  the  purpose  of  settling  accounts  in  all  branches  of  the 
administration,  national,  departmental,  and  municipal.  It  is  composed  of  five  magistrates 
elected  by  the  president  from  a ternary  list  provided  by  the  Senate;  the  principal  accountants 
are  named  by  the  president  from  a ternary  list  of  the  tribunal,  and  the  remaining  employes 
are  appointed  by  the  tribunal.  The  magistrates  of  the  tribunal  can  be  removed  only  under 
sentence  of  the  supreme  court  of  justice. 

The  promising  financial  outlook  of  the  country  is  indicated  by  the  spontaneous  offers  of 
loans  that  have  come  recently  from  English  and  Belgian  capitalists,  amounting  in  the  first 
case  to  a million,  and  in  the  second  to  two  million  pounds  sterling.  The  minister  of  finance 
and  industry,  Sehor  Don  Daniel  del  Castillo,  comments  on  these  offers  in  his  report  for  190^, 
regarding  them  as  a proof  of  the  favorable  condition  of  Bolivian  credit  in  European  markets, 
and  as  a guarantee  of  the  facility  with  which  funds  could  be  obtained  if  necessary  to  develop 
the  national  industries.  Sehor  Castillo  is  very  hopeful  for  the  future  of  industrial  enterprise 


THE  QUARTET,  LA  PAZ. 


in  his  country,  when  the  new  railways  are  completed,  to  facilitate  transportation,  and  when 
regulations  are  once  established  to  protect  infant  industries.  An  ardent  patriot  and  for 
years  one  of  the  staunch  leaders  of  the  liberal  party  now  in  power,  Sehor  Castillo  represents 


I 12 


BOLiyiA 


the  spirit  of  the  new  Bolivia,  which  has  outgrown  the  ebullitions  of  juvenile  temper,  and 
has  settled  down  to  the  task  of  full  grown  government.  A statesman  of  high  ideals 
and  practical  methods,  he  devotes  all  his  talents  to  the  public  service,  and  in  the  councils  of 

state  is  distinguished  for  his  correct  decisions 
and  far-seeing  judgment. 

The  war  department  is  now  chiefly  occu- 
pied with  the  reorganization  of  the  army,  in 
fulfilment  of  a decree  of  the  president,  issued 
March  190^,  calling  for  a new  military  regis- 
tration of  all  Bolivians  from  eighteen  years  of 
age  upward,  without  distinction  of  social  class. 
It  is  the  intention  of  the  government  to  give 
no  opportunity  for  the  evasion  of  the  law 
which  makes  military  service  obligatory,  and 
the  minister  of  war,  Sehor  Dr.  Jose  S.  Quin- 
teros, says:  “When  it  is  a question  of  the 
militarization  of  the  country  and  of  the  national 
defence,  there  are  no  privileged  social  classes, 
no  exclusions  for  professional  reasons;  every 
Bolivian,  of  whatever  social  condition  and 
whatever  profession,  is  obliged  to  fulfil  the 
sacred  duty  of  preparing  himself  and  educating 
himself  in  a military  sense.  And  the  best  school  of  military  education  and  apprenticeship 
is  the  quartel ; it  is  there  that  practical  lessons  in  military  science  are  given,  and  that 
one  learns  the  love  of  country,  consecrating  to  it  the  sacrifice  of  one’s  life  if  necessary.” 
By  following  the  proposed  system  of  giving  military  education  and  instruction  to  all 
Bolivians  within  the  quartels,  calling  them  into  the  service  at  determined  periods,  it  is 
believed  that  within  a few  years  Bolivia  will  be  able  to  count  on  a large  number  of  citizens 
prepared  for  war.  By  the  laws  of  the  country,  every  citizen  is  a soldier  except  the  clergy, 
the  only  sons  of  aged  parents,  fathers  of  more  than  two  children,  and  those  whose  brothers 
have  died  in  national  war.  Those  who  enjoy  immunity  from  conscription  are  required  to 
pay  a small  semi-annual  tax  during  the  years  in  which  they  would  otherwise  serve.  The 
Bolivian  army  is  divided  into  two  principal  categories,  the  troops  of  the  line  and  the  reserves: 
the  latter  are  again  divided  into  the  pledged  troops  of  the  line,  composed  of  young  men 
between  twenty  and  twenty-five  years  of  age,  who  form  an  integral  part  of  the  army  of  the 
line  and  may  be  sent  to  the  quartel  at  a moment’s  notice  if  necessary:  the  ordinary  reserve, 
of  men  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  years  of  age;  the  extraordinary  reserve,  from  thirty  to 
forty  years  of  age;  and  the  territorial  guard,  from  forty  to  fifty  years  of  age.  The  total 
strength  of  the  army,  counting  it  in  these  divisions,  is  one  hundred  and  two  thousand  five 
hundred  and  sixty  men. 


SENOR  DR.  JOSE  QUINTEROS,  MINISTER  OF  WAR. 


THE  PRESIDENT’S  CABINET 


113 

The  military  departments  correspond  to  the  political  departments,  the  prefect  being 
also  commandante  general.  In  each  department  capital  there  is  a chief  of  staff,  who  is  a 
subaltern  of  the  commandante  general,  and  has  charge  of  the  transmission  of  military 
judgments  in  civil  as  well  as  criminal  cases.  The  republic  is  also  divided  into  five  mili- 
tary zones:  the  north,  which  includes  the  department  of  La  Paz;  the  centre,  including 
Oruro  and  Cochabamba:  the  south,  Chuquisaca,  Potosi,  andTarija;  the  east,  Santa  Cruz; 
and  the  northwest,  including  the  Beni  and  the  Territorio  Nacional  de  Colonias.  The  military 
park  is  in  La  Paz,  where  it  occupies  the  edifice  of  the  Intendencia  de  la  Guerra:  its  depend- 
encies are  in  Oruro  and  Potosi.  The  Escuela  de  Guerra,  which  has  for  its  object  the 
preparation  of  technical  experts  for  the  service  of  the  general  staff  and  instructors  for 
the  army,  is  under  the  direction  of  the  war  department,  as  is  also  the  Colegio  Militar, 
designed  to  give  practical  military  training  in  all  its  branches.  The  general  inspection  of 
the  army  is  in  charge  of  General  of  Division  Clodomiro  Montes,  who  has  recently  made  a 
journey  through  the  republic,  completing  a thorough  investigation  of  the  various  branches 
of  military  service.  The  result  of  his  observations  has  been  to  confirm  the  necessity  for 
a new  military  census  and  a reorganization  of  the  army.  General  Montes  is  a distinguished 
figure  in  military  circles,  not  only  of  his  own  country,  but  abroad,  with  a brave  and  honor- 
able war  record,  and  in  his  effort  to  raise  the  military  standard  of  Bolivia  he  is  adding  an 
additional  service  to  the  many  he  has  rendered  in  behalf  of  the  nation.  The  minister  of 
war.  Dr.  Quinteros,  a native  of  the  “Villa  Imperial,”  Potosi,  is  one  of  the  youngest  members 
of  the  Cabinet,  though  his  name  is  well  known  not  only  in  political,  but  in  literary  circles  of 
South  America,  where  his  works  on  constitutional  law  have  been  widely  read.  He  was 
several  times  elected  deputy  before  entering  the  present  Cabinet  as  minister,  and  in  1903 
was  president  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies.  A lawyer  of  distinguished  talents,  he  has 
contributed  in  an  important  degree  to  the  advancement  of  knowledge  in  legal  matters, 
especially  through  his  lectures  to  the  students  of  the  law  classes  in  the  University  of  San 
Francisco  Xavier,  Sucre,  where  he  occupied  the  chair  of  jurisprudence  for  several  years. 

In  order  to  give  adequate  attention  to  the  important  questions  of  immigration,  coloniza- 
tion, and  agriculture,  the  government  organized  in  October,  1904,  the  Ministerio  de  Colonias  y 
Agricultura,  appointing  as  minister  Sehor  Manuel  Vicente  Ballivian,  whose  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  all  subjects  relating  to  Bolivia,  whether  historical,  political,  or  commercial,  makes  him 
a veritable  encyclopedia  of  information.  So  universally  is  he  recognized  as  an  authority  in 
this  respect,  that  he  is  quoted  in  nearly  all  books  of  reference  on  Bolivia  in  whatever  country 
or  language.  Sehor  Ballivian  is  an  accomplished  linguist  and  a writer  of  great  talent,  as  well 
as  a statesman,  inheriting  many  of  the  distinguished  gifts  of  his  illustrious  family,  of  whom 
General  Jose  Ballivian,  Dr.  Adolfo  Ballivian,  and  the  minister’s  father,  Don  Vicente  Ballivian 
y Rojas,  are  particularly  noted  for  their  fine  intellects.  Sehor  Ballivian  has  translated 
into  Spanish  all  the  more  important  works  written  on  his  country  by  foreigners,  and  he 
has  contributed  to  its  bibliography  scores  of  interesting  books  and  pamphlets  written  by 
himself.  In  all  his  works  the  chief  purpose  is  the  dissemination  of  knowledge  regarding 


114 


BOLIVIA 


the  immense  resources  of  Bolivia,  and  the  opportunity  it  offers  as  a field  for  great  industrial 
enterprises.  When  called  to  the  ministry  of  colonization  and  agriculture,  Senor  Ballivian 
had  already  made  his  services  most  valuable  to  the  government  through  the  Geographic 

Society  of  La  Paz,  of  which  he  is  president, 
and  the  National  Bureau  of  Immigration,  Sta- 
tistics, and  Geographic  Propaganda,  which  is 
under  his  direcfon.  In  his  first  annual  report 
to  Congress,  Senior  Ballivian  gives  his  plan  for 
promoting  immigration,  which  is  to  secure 
only  those  colonists  who  come  voluntarily 
to  the  country,  attracted  by  its  great  resources, 
good  climate,  and  favorable  laws,  thus  avoiding 
the  disastrous  consequences  of  promiscuous 
immigration,  such  as  has  afflicted  neighboring 
republics,  where  the  too  liberal  importation 
of  immigrants  has  frequently  resulted  in  the 
necessity  for  shipping  the  newcomers  back  to 
Europe  at  great  expense.  It  is  the  opinion 
of  Senor  Ballivian,  endorsed  by  the  govern- 
ment, that  more  satisfactory  colonization  will 
be  accomplished  if  immigrants  are  brought 
out  at  their  own  risk,  after  being  supplied  with 
full  information  about  the  country  through 
the  consulates  and  immigration  agencies, 
which  will  be  provided  with  literature  in 
various  languages  for  distribution  as  propaganda. 

Bearing  on  the  subject  of  colonization,  an  important  law  governing  the  acquisition  of 
unfilled  lands  was  passed  by  Congress  in  October,  190^.  According  to  its  provisions,  state 
lands  can  be  acquired  only  by  purchase,  except  under  special  dispositions  and  laws.  The 
unit  of  measurement  is  the  hectare,  equivalent  to  a trifle  less  than  two  and  one-half  acres. 
The  ownership  of  land  does  not  carry  unrestricted  rights  as  to  minerals,  which  are  regulated 
by  mining  laws.  Everyone,  native  or  foreigner,  capable  of  conforming  to  the  civil  law  is 
permitted  to  purchase  from  the  state  as  much  as  twenty  thousand  hectares,  paying  cash 
therefor  at  the  rate  of  ten  centavos,  equivalent  to  four  and  one-half  cents  gold,  per  hectare, 
for  land  suitable  to  agriculture  and  cattle  raising:  for  lands  which  contain  productive  rubber 
trees  the  price  is  one  boliviano  per  hectare.  Purchasers  are  obliged  to  establish  on  their 
lands  at  least  one  family  for  each  thousand  hectares.  Concessions  for  more  than  twenty 
thousand  hectares  are  subject  to  the  approval  of  Congress.  After  the  land  has  been  granted, 
it  is  measured  and  the  limits  are  marked  by  two  experts,  one  of  whom  is  appointed  by 
the  government  and  the  other  by  the  purchaser,  the  expenses  of  both  being  paid  by  the 


SENOR  DON  MANUEL  VICENTE  BALLIVIAN.  MINISTER 
OF  COLONIZATION  AND  AGRICULTURE. 


THE  PRESIDENT'S  CABINET 


purchaser;  on  the  termination  of  this  work,  the  respective  authorities  are  notified  and  the 
concession  is  recorded  in  the  prescribed  registers.  For  purposes  of  immigration  the  govern- 
ment reserves  such  lands  as  it  deems  necessary,  holding  certain  tracts  also  for  distribution 
among  the  Indians,  for  establishing  government  institutions,  founding  villages,  building  roads, 
and  promoting  foreign  investment  and  enterprise.  Neither  those  acquiring  lands  nor  their 
successors  are  permitted  to  oppose  the  opening  of  roads  and  streets  through  their  property 
or  the  building  of  railroads  across  their  lands,  when  an  increase  of  population  requires  it, 
nor  will  they  have  the  right  of  indemnity,  except  for  the  construction  work  done  on  the  land 
which  the  roads  cover.  All  matters  relating  to  these  land  laws  are  under  the  exclusive 
jurisdiction  of  the  minister  of  colonies.  The  executive  and  the  ddegados  iiacionales  of  the 
Territorio  de  Colonias  and  the  Gran  Chaco  have  the  power  to  sell  the  government  lands 
within  their  respective  territorial  limits,  in  conformity  with  the  provisions  of  the  present  law 
and  the  regulations  authorized  by  the  executive  for  its  execution.  Not  only  has  the  govern- 
ment made  every  possible  effort  to  facilitate  the  opening  up  of  hitherto  uncultivated  regions, 
but  it  has  promulgated  particularly  favorable  laws  to  govern  the  adjudication  of  lands  and 
the  guarantees  and  protection  which  are  offered  to  the  foreigner.  Furthermore,  the  districts, 
or  {onas,  which  are  to  be  appropriated  to  purposes  of  colonization,  have  been  specified  by 
law  and  arranged  in  groups  according  to  the  nature  of  products  and  climate. 

In  addition  to  the  Territorio  de  Colonias,  which  offers  special  inducements  for  coloniza- 
tion, there  are  vast  lands  in  the  Departments  of  the  Beni,  Santa  Cruz,  and  Chuquisaca,  along 
the  eastern  boundary  of  the  republic.  Probably  the  most  promising  field  for  immigration, 
considering  the  favorable  climate  as  well  as  the  great  resources  and  proximity  to  the  Argen- 
tine railway  system  and  the  waterways  of  La  Plata,  is  the  province  of  the  Gran  Chaco, 
belonging  to  the  department  of  Tarija.  This  province  is  now  being  settled  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  intrepid  prefect  of  the  department,  Sehor  Don  Leocadio  Trigo,  who  has  travelled 
through  the  savage  wilds  that  still  exist  in  this  region,  beyond  the  most  remote  districts 
explored  by  his  predecessors  in  office.  He  has  succeeded  in  subduing  hitheito  intransigent 
tribes,  and  has  established  government  authority  in  districts  never  before  subjected  to  the 
laws  of  civilization.  Roads  have  been  opened  and  posias  built  to  facilitate  communication 
between  the  Chaco  and  the  rest  of  the  republic.  In  his  recent  message,  the  minister  of 
colonization  warmly  commends  the  zeal  and  patriotism  which  accomplished  a work  so 
important  to  the  interests  of  national  progress. 

While  active  efforts  toward  colonization  are  thus  in  progress,  the  work  of  stimu- 
lating agricultural  development  is  occupying  the  minister’s  attention  in  an  equal  degree. 
Juntas  de  Fomento  Agricola  y Ganadero,  which  are  boards  for  the  promotion  of  agricul- 
ture and  stock  raising,  have  been  established  throughout  the  republic,  and  model  farms 
are  being  instituted  for  the  technical  training  of  agriculturists.  A school  of  agriculture 
has  just  been  founded  in  the  port  of  Rurrenabaque,  in  the  Territorio  Nacional  de  Colonias, 
and  another  in  Tarija.  The  government  proposes  also  to  give  elementary  lessons  in 
agriculture  in  the  primary  schools,  followed  by  agricultural  studies  of  a more  advanced 


BOLIVIA 


1 16 

character  in  the  secondary  schools.  The  National  Bureau  of  Immigration,  Statistics,  and 
Geographic  Propaganda  is  annexed  to  the  Department  of  Colonization  and  Agriculture, 
and,  under  the  indefatigable  efforts  of  Sehor  Ballivian,  the  national  statistics  are  being 
compiled  in  a satisfactory  way.  In  the  section  of  geographic  propaganda,  the  minister’s 
predilection  for  scientific  study  and  research  is  seen  in  the  institution  of  a National  Museum 
of  Natural  History:  and  among  tlie  works  of  geographic  propaganda  issued  by  the  bureau, 
the  material  coming  from  Sehor  Ballivian’s  pen  indicates  the  wide  range  of  knowledge  he 
possesses  on  this  subject.  The  museum  contains  specimens  of  the  production  of  the  soil, 
objects  of  interest  in  historical  research,  as  prehistoric  fossils  and  archmological  specimens; 
collections  of  minerals  and  of  plants  and  animals;  of  weapons  and  ornaments  of  the 
aborigines:  to  which  is  added  a rare  collection  of  coins.  As  the  museum  is  of  recent 
existence,  it  is  still  in  process  of  classification,  but  promises  to  be  one  of  the  most  interesting 
and  attractive  of  the  national  institutions. 

The  president  confers  with  each  of  the  ministers  of  his  Cabinet  upon  an  appointed  day 
of  each  week,  and  with  the  entire  Cabinet  in  council  once  a week.  By  this  method  the 
chief  executive  is  in  constant  touch  with  all  the  departments  of  the  government,  and 
the  administration  is  directed  by  the  supreme  power  in  perfect  accord  with  the  various 
ministerios. 


I>1.AZA  MURILLO  IN  FRONT  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  LA  PAZ. 


MUNICIPAL  THEATRE,  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  VII 


THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET— SOCIAL  LIFE— CHARITIES 


NDER  the  viceroyalty,  when  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas 
represented  the  authority  of  Spain  tliroughout  the  greater 
part  of  South  America,  and  occupied  a position  hardly 
second  in  power  to  that  of  the  viceroy,  the  capital  of 
Alto  Peru,  then  called  Chuquisaca,  now  Sucre,  was  the 
centre  of  culture  and  fashion  for  the  whole  territory 
comprised  in  the  present  republics  of  Bolivia,  Para- 
guay, and  Argentina.  Imagination  can  easily  picture 
the  little  court  of  the  Audiencia,  and  mentally  place  in 
its  charming  circle  the  ladies  who  gave  prestige  to  its 
social  functions.  From  the  stately  old  palaces  with 
their  carved  doorways,  they  look  out  to-day:  for  the 
same  type  of  beauty  may  be  seen  in  the  capital  now 
as  then,  a few  of  the  same  wonderful  palaces  remaiiy 
and  the  owner  is  as  queenly,  as  beautiful,  and  as 
charming  as  she  could  possibly  have  been  a century 
ago.  It  is  always  the  ladies  of  the  court,  the  Cabinet, 
the  diplomatic  corps,  who  stretch  the  silken  cord  of  harmony  across  the  gap  between 
political  and  social  life  and  give  to  the  state  its  ornamental  feature,  without  which  it  would 
present  a cold  and  unattractive  spectacle.  The  Court  of  Saint  James,  the  White  House,  the 
Escurial,  are  names  which  call  to  mind,  with  more  pleasure  and  fascination  than  their  chief 
purpose  inspires  in  most  of  us,  a vision  of  gay  throngs  in  silks  and  laces  and  jewels,  with 
Cupid  in  the  midst  and  proud  Jupiter  benignly  looking  on.  A gallant  young  minister  of 
state  remarked  recently  to  the  wife  of  a colleague:  “Ah,  madam,  the  Cabinet  is  only  a 
necessary  evil : the  ladies  of  the  Cabinet  are  its  indispensable  blessing!  ” Life  at  the  capitals 
would  often  be  a dreary  routine  were  it  not  for  the  gracious  hostesses  of  the  administration, 
who  inspire  by  their  sympathy,  and  give  a charming  note  of  gayety  to  leisure  hours  with 
their  brilliant  balls,  receptions,  and  other  entertainments. 

1 19 


A BEAUTIFUL  BOLIVIAN. 


120 


BOLIVIA 


In  Bolivia  the  president  and  his  ministers  are  nearly  all  young  men ; and  although  the 
president’s  wife  enjoys  the  matronly  prestige  which  a house  full  of  beautiful  children  gives, 
slie  still  looks  but  little  over  twenty.  Possessing  a gentle  dignity  of  manner  and  the  rare 
charm  of  an  exquisitely  modulated  voice,  it  is  a pleasure  to  be  in  her  company  and  to  listen 
to  her  genial  conversation.  The  executive  mansion  is  thronged  on  her  day  of  reception,  as 
everyone  loves  and  esteems  the  Senora  Presidenta.  The  poor  and  unfortunate  adore  her 
for  her  numerous  benefactions  and  for  her  kindly  interest  in  their  troubles  and  needs.  The 
home  of  the  president  was  recently  plunged  into  mourning  by  the  death  of  his  eldest 
daughter,  a singularly  beautiful  and  attractive  young  lady,  universally  admired  for  her 
winsome  disposition  and  the  extraordinary  loveliness  of  her  character.  The  entire  nation 
manifested  its  grief  with  demonstrations  of  profound  sympathy. 

Senora  de  Pando,  the  wife  of  the  ex-president,  and  Senora  de  Villazon,  the  first  vice- 
president’s  wife,  while  representing  distinctly  different  types  of  Bolivian  beauty,  are  both 
remarkably  handsome  women.  Senora  de  Pando,  who  is  now  in  Europe,  is  a stately  figure, 
the  grande  dame  whom  painters  love  to  put  on  canvas:  like  her  illustrious  husband,  she  is 
greatly  esteemed  and  beloved  by  the  Bolivian  people.  Senora  de  Villazon  is  of  the  pure 
Spanish-American  type,  combining  Old  World  ideals  of  beauty  and  grace  with  a blithe  spirit 
which  is  altogether  American  and  shows  nothing  of  the  melancholy  temperament  so  often 
characteristic  of  the  Spaniards.  Senora  de  Abecia,  the  wife  of  the  second  vice-president, 
who,  as  well  as  Senora  de  Villazon,  is  a resident  of  Sucre,  is  one  of  the  most  charming 
social  leaders  at  the  capital.  Sucre  is  among  the  most  European  of  South  American  cities  in 
its  social  life  and  customs,  several  of  its  representative  families  having  lived  a long  time 
abroad,  while  a great  many  of  the  younger  generation  finished  their  education  in  French  or 
English  schools.  This  influence  of  the  Old  World  is  noticeable  in  the  best  circles  of  society, 
and  especially  among  its  more  conservative  leaders.  Senora  de  Abecia  is  distinguished  for 
her  gentle  refinement  and  culture:  and  when  she  receives  in  company  with  her  daughter, 
they  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  sisters. 

Whether  or  not  the  climate  and  the  philosophical  contentment  which  pervades  Bolivian  life 
be  responsible,  the  years  seem  to  pass  with  no  more  than  a graceful  bow  to  the  favored  ladies 
of  this  country.  The  wife  of  the  foreign  minister,  Senora  de  Pinilla,  impresses  one  as  being 
remarkably  young  when  she  presents  her  grown  son,  several  inches  taller  than  herself,  who, 
by  the  way,  has  just  distinguished  himself  and  brought  honor  to  his  country  as  the  only 
American  who  has  ever  carried  away  the  highest  honors,  ahead  of  European  students,  at 
one  of  the  first  schools  of  Belgium.  A daughter,  now  of  the  “sweet  girl  graduate”  period, 
and  several  younger  children  make  life  merry  in  this  most  attractive  household.  Senora  de 
Pinilla  has  genius  as  a social  leader,  and  she  entertains  with  liberal  hospitality,  possessing 
many  of  the  gifts  of  mind  and  heart  which  were  characteristic  of  her  illustrious  father, 
Senor  Don  Jose  Rosendo  Gutierrez,  and  which  made  him  so  generally  beloved.  Senora  de 
Capriles,  the  wife  of  the  minister  of  government,  spends  much  of  her  time  at  the  easel, 
and  the  results  of  her  study  of  art  are  seen  in  several  beautiful  pictures  which  adorn  her 


THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET— SOCIAL  LIFE— CHARITIES 


I2I 


handsome  home.  The  opportunity  for  studying  art  is  limited  in  Bolivia;  and  though  the 
country  has  produced  many  good  artists,  the  circumstances  have  never  been  quite  favorable 
to  a development  of  this  talent,  so  few  teachers  being  available.  Sehora  de  Capriles  has 
evidently  received  instruction  abroad,  as  her  work  shows  the  influence  of  European  schools. 


SERORA  dona  BETHSABE  de  MONTES.  WIFE  OF  THE  PRESIDENT  OF  BOLIVIA. 


The  Sehoras  de  Montes,  de  Pinilla,  and  de  Capriles  live  in  La  Paz,  which  is  at  present 
the  seat  of  government.  Sehora  de  Saracho,  the  wife  of  the  minister  of  justice  and 
instruction,  has  her  home  in  the  city  of  Potosi,  far  from  the  centre  of  official  life,  under  the 
shadow  of  the  famous  mountain  which  poured  so  much  silver  into  the  lap  of  Spain  in 
colonial  days,  and  which  is  still  supplying  rich  metals  to  the  markets  of  the  world.  In  a 
picturesque  old  palacio, — everything  old  in  Potosi  is  picturesque, — on  one  of  the  sloping 
hills  of  the  “Imperial  Town,”  Sehora  de  Saracho  lives  the  ideal  home  life,  welcoming  with 


I 22 


BOLIVIA 


true  courtesy  and  kindliness  the  visitor  to  that  interesting  city,  and  charming  everyone  who 
meets  lier  by  her  sweet  graciousness  and  unaffected  goodness.  Whenever  it  is  possible 

for  the  minister  to  get  away  from 
the  arduous  duties  of  his  office,  he 
leaves  at  once  for  Potosi,  where  he 
takes  his  holiday  with  his  beloved 
family  and  among  his  precious  books. 
Sehora  del  Castillo,  whose  husband  is 
finance  minister,  lives  in  La  Paz.  She 
belongs  to  a very  old  and  aristocratic 
family  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
of  the  Cabinet  ladies.  In  company 
with  her  clever  husband,  she  holds 
charming  recepfons,  and  entertains 
a host  of  friends  with  delightful 
hospitality. 

There  has  never  been  a time  in 
the  history  of  the  republic  when  the 
name  of  Ballivian  has  not  been 
prominent  in  social  as  well  as  polit- 
ical affairs,  and  the  present  head  of 
the  family  inherits  the  best  charac- 
teristics of  his  noble  race.  His  home 
is  the  centre  of  intellectual  and  social 
life  in  La  Paz,  and  Senora  de  Balli- 
vian, with  clever  sons  and  lovely 
daughters  to  assist  her,  entertains  sumptuously.  The  salon  of  this  gracious  hostess  is  a 
feature  of  the  social  season.  Her  tertuUas  are  more  than  evening  receptions;  they  are 
marked  by  a reunion  of  the  best  talent,  and  there  is  often  music,  singing,  the  discussion  of 
interesting  topics  of  varied  character, — indeed,  everything  that  gives  a salon  its  charm.  As 
Senor  Ballivian  speaks  many  languages  fluently,  and  as  Senora  Ballivian  and  her  children 
are  similarly  gifted,  foreign  visitors  to  La  Paz  are  especially  happy  to  be  invited  to  these 
“at  homes,”  which  are  always  enjoyable. 

The  customs  of  good  society  are  more  or  less  the  same  in  all  lands,  and  the  popular 
methods  of  entertainment  vary  little  in  any  country  from  those  of  all  others.  Climate  and 
circumstances  may  influence  the  social  routine  in  a moderate  degree,  but  even  these  are  less 
taken  into  account  than  may  be  generally  supposed.  When  a foreigner  arrives  in  La  Paz 
for  the  first  time,  and  the  altitude  of  over  twelve  thousand  feet  makes  breathing  difficult  to 
him,  to  say  nothing  of  the  effort  required  to  climb  the  streets  of  the  city  which  are  nearly 
all  at  a considerable  angle  toward  the  perpendicular,  his  frst  impression  is  likely  to  be:  “ It  is 


THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET-SOCIAL  LIFE— CHARITIES 


123 


impossible  to  go  about  and  enjoy  life  when  the  mere  effort  of  breathing  tires  one ! ” but  a 
short  residence  serves  to  cure  most  people  of  the  soroche,  as  this  mountain  sickness  is  called, 
and  in  the  social  functions  which  mark  the  summer  season,  none  of  the  guests  are  more 
constantly  in  evidence  than  the  foreigner,  who  promenades,  dances,  and  banquets  with  the 
greatest  apparent  enjoyment.  Long  horseback  rides  into  the  country  around  La  Paz  consti- 
tute a favorite  form  of  amusement,  and  coaching  parties,  automobile  outings,  or  picnics  by 
train  to  Tiahuanaco  and  Lake  Titicaca  are  frequently  arranged.  Life  may  be  passed  very 
agreeably  in  the  City  of  Peace,  and  as  the  government  officials,  with  few  exceptions,  and 
the  entire  diplomatic  corps,  reside  there,  society  is  represented  in  its  most  attractive  features. 
While  La  Paz  has  the  prestige  which  the  residence  of  the  executive  and  the  diplomatic  corps 
gives  it,  Sucre  is  the  centre  of  the  social  world  as  represented  in  some  of  the  wealthiest  and 
most  aristocratic  families  of  the  republic.  Cochabamba,  the  garden  city,  is  the  home  of 
many  of  Bolivia’s  intellectual  leaders,  artists,  poets,  and  other  great  men,  and  it  is  the 
centre  around  which  are  grouped  the  great  estates  of  several  of  the  most  prominent  land- 
owners.  Potosi  rests  a good  deal  on  the  laurels  won  in  colonial  days,  when  it  was  a city 
of  fabulous  wealth  and  fanciful  legends,  though  its  society  is  charming  and  cultured ; Oruro 
is  called  the  “ Gringo  city,”  so  many  foreigners  having  made  it  their  home,  contributing  to 
give  it  something  of  a cosmopolitan  character.  Social  life  in  Santa  Cruz  is  simple,  but  frank 


CARNIVAL  DAYS  IN  COCHABAMBA. 


and  cordial,  and  the  generous  hospitality  of  its  people  is  proverbial.  The  bustle  and  whirl 
of  a strenuous  existence  do  not  disturb  the  serenity  of  any  Bolivian  city.  La  Paz  leisurely 


124 


BOLiyiA 


SENORA  DONA  ISABEL  DE  CAPRILES. 


takes  its  coffee  between  nine  and  ten  in  the  morning,  and  by  five  o’clock  in  the  evening 
the  day’s  work  is  done,  as  it  should  be.  What  more  barbarous  than  the  mad  rush  and 

scrimmage  that  characterize  the  life  of  the  average 
modern  city  from  daybreak  until  dark!  Humanity 
seems  to  be  caught  on  a wheel  of  progress,  which, 
the  faster  it  turns  in  its  onward  course,  the  more 
recklessly  it  grinds  the  unfortunate  victim.  It  is  to 
be  hoped  that  future  generations  will  evolve  a more 
comfortable  system,  and,  if  it  must  be  rapid,  let  it  be 
a less  tragic  process.  The  proprietress  of  a silkworm 
industry  in  Cochabamba  complained  recently  that  it 
was  impossible  to  get  help  to  tend  the  cocoons  at 
night  as  no  one  would  work  all  night,  no  matter  how 
well  paid.  Perhaps  this  state  of  affairs  indicates  an 
indifference  to  opportunities  for  bettering  one’s  con- 
dition in  life  and  a too  easy  contentment,  but  there 
is,  after  all,  something  refreshing  in  the  contemplation 
of  an  entire  community  able  to  take  its  rest  undis- 
turbed in  the  night  hours.  Isn’t  it  a glimpse  of 
the  “simple  life’’  so  much  lauded  by  the  latter-day 
philosophers?  The  happiness  and  well-being  of  Bolivian  society  do  not  depend  upon  the 
regularity  of  a suburban  train  service,  upon  the  attractions  of  the  theatrical  season,  or  upon 
any  of  the  well-known  public  amusements  which  have  become  essential  to  the  enjoyment  of 
leisure  in  the  big  centres  of  the  Old  and  the  New  World.  At  the  same  time,  the  chief  cities 
have  their  theatres,  one  of  the  best  being  the  Teatro  Municipal  of  La  Paz,  which  was  built 
under  the  administration  of  General  Jose  Ballivian  and  opened  to  the  public  in  184^.  It  has 
a seating  capacity  for  about  a thousand  spectators,  divided  into  parquet,  first  and  second 
balconies,  and  a third  gallery,  which  is  called  the  galUiiero,  or  hencoop,  occupied  by  the 
miscellaneous  crowd  familiarly  called  gallery  gods  in  English  and  American  theatres. 

Outdoor  sports  and  pastimes  are  popular,  and  there  are  several  clubs  under  whose 
management  races  and  horse  shows  are  held.  The  cancha,  or  race  track,  of  La  Paz,  situated 
in  the  suburb  Sopocachi,  is  used  not  only  for  the  races,  but  for  various  other  fiestas,  and 
upon  many  occasions  entertainments  are  held  there  in  the  interests  of  charity.  A feature  of 
social  life  found  in  all  Spanish-American  countries  is  the  promenade  in  the  plaza,  which  is 
as  attractive  in  the  Bolivian  cities  as  elsewhere.  La  Paz,  Sucre,  Cochabamba,  Potosi,  Oruro, 
and  Santa  Cruz  have  their  large  public  squares,  ornamented  with  trees  and  flowers,  and 
having  paved  walks  all  around  for  the  promenade.  A band  of  music  plays  in  the  evening 
two  or  three  times  a week,  and  society  puts  on  its  gala  dress  and  spends  an  hour  or  two  in 
the  plaza,  the  young  ladies  walking  in  one  direction  and  the  young  men  in  the  opposite,  so 
that  there  is  a constant  meeting  of  “dark  eyes ’’that  “look  love  to  eyes  which  speak  again.’’ 


THE  LADIES  OE  THE  CABINET— SOCIAL  LIFE— CHARITIES 


12^ 


Under  the  marvellously  clear  light  of  the  moon  as  it  shines  over  La  Paz,  the  effect  of  the 
brilliant  throng  is  particularly  pleasing  and  picturesque, 
of  nature,  and  live  a great  deal  out  of  doors.  Many 
take  their  annual  outing  in  a trip  by  coach  to  the  won- 
derful health  resorts  of  the  Yungas,  to  far-famed 
Sorata,  or  to  the  thermal  springs  in  the  neighborhood  of 
La  Paz,  Cochabamba,  Sucre,  and  Potosi.  It  is  quite  a 
popular  custom  for  society  to  go  to  the  seashore  during 
a part  of  the  year,  and  the  ports  of  Mollendo,  Arica, 
and  Antofagasta  are  favorite  resorts.  With  the  com- 
pletion of  the  new  railway  from  La  Paz  to  Arica,  the 
trip  can  be  made  in  a few  hours  by  fast  train,  so  that 
the  popularity  of  that  beautiful  little  coast  city  may  be 
expected  to  grow  rapidly,  not  only  as  a commercial 
port,  but  as  a fashionable  bathing  resort.  Many  rich 
families  of  the  principal  cities  have  homes  in  the  coun- 
try also,  where  they  spend  a few  months  every  year. 

The  valleys  around  La  Paz,  Sucre,  and  Cochabamba 
are  dotted  with  prosperous-looking  haciendas,  and 
there  are  several  really  magnificent  estates.  A favorite 
outing  for  La  Paz  people  is  a drive  or  horseback  ride  along  the  road  to  Obrajes;  and 
delightful  picnic  parties  are  held  in  the  picturesque  little  park  of  the  town  of  Obrajes,  which 

overlooks  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  scenery  imaginable. 
La  Paz  itself  being  at  too  great 
an  altitude  to  permit  of  luxu- 
rious vegetation,  it  is  a treat  to 
find,  within  a few  hours’  ride, 
all  the  charm  of  green  fields 
and  shady  groves.  The  sub- 
urban homes  of  La  Paz  are 
many  of  them  very  attractive, 
and  pretty  chalets  look  out 
from  the  hillsides  all  around. 

In  the  city  itself  some  of 
the  handsomest  houses  are  old 
palaces  of  the  time  of  the  vice- 
royalty, which,  in  spite  of  the 
necessity  for  modernizing  their  interiors  to  provide  for  twentieth-century  comfort,  still  possess 
that  charm  of  solidity  and  individuality  of  design  which  makes  them  easily  recognizable 


AN  AUTOMOBILE  PARTY  IN  COCHABAMBA. 


Bolivians  like  to  enjoy  the  beauties 


SENORA  DONA  V.  DEL  CASTILLO. 


126 


BOLIVIA 


from  the  dwellings  of  recent  construction.  Their  spacious  drawing  rooms  are  particularly 
adapted  to  the  entertainment  of  large  parties,  and  one  can  imagine  that  an  additional  touch 
of  romance  is  given  to  the  gayeties  of  a ballroom  about  which  cling  traditions  of  brilliant 
social  events  celebrated  a century  ago.  If  walls  could  speak,  what  tales  of  chivalry  and 
beauty  we  might  hear  regarding  those  days  when  splendid  festivities  were  held  to  honor 
the  arrival  of  a noble  representative  of  the  court  of  Spain,  or  to  welcome  some  illustrious 
envoy  of  Rome!  Society  entertains  with  less  pomp  and  pageantry  in  these  republican 
days;  but  romance  knows  no  epoch,  and  the  old  walls,  if  they  could  speak,  could  still  re- 
peat pretty  compliments  exchanged  “when  hearts  are  young  and  faces  fair.”  Bridge  parties 
and  five  o’clock  teas  are  among  the  more  modern  entertainments  of  La  Paz  society.  Several 

of  the  foreign  legations  are  presided  over  by  bach- 
elors, conspicuously  those  of  the  United  States  and 
Germany,  though  the  Hon.  W.  B.  Sorsby,  the  Amer- 
ican minister,  and  Baron  von  Bruck,  the  German 
minister,  are  both  excellent  hosts,  and  their  legations 
are  frequently  the  scene  of  charming  reunions  of 
La  Paz  society.  From  reasons  of  climate,  the  annual 
exodus  to  the  country  is  less  marked  in  La  Paz  than 
in  other  cities.  Many  families  remain  in  their  town 
houses  all  the  year  round,  as  there  is  but  little  dif- 
ference in  the  temperature,  except  that  in  the  winter 
months  of  May,  June,  and  July  it  is  less  agreeable 
than  during  the  rest  of  the  year,  because  of  heavy 
rains.  When  the  La  Paz  people  seek  a change,  it  is 
usually  a change  of  altitude  that  is  needed,  as  a few 
find  that  the  rarefied  atmosphere  produces  a tension 
of  the  nerves. 

The  same  is  true  of  Potosi,  those  who  require 
a change  frequently  making  a trip  to  Sucre,  which 
is  between  three  and  four  thousand  feet  lower  than  Potosi.  The  marvellous  thermal 
springs  around  Potosi,  at  Miratlores,  Yocalla,  and  Don  Diego,  attract  large  numbers  of 
invalids.  The  air  of  La  Paz  and  Potosi  is,  naturally,  pure  and  healthful,  and  is  especially 
recommended  for  those  who  suffer  from  asthma,  many  remarkable  cures  having  been 
effected  at  Potosi,  where  the  conditions  are  particularly  favorable.  It  is  sometimes  said  that 
the  great  fortunes  made  in  Potosi  are  spent  in  Sucre,  the  more  agreeable  climate  of  the  latter 
city  making  it  a very  desirable  place  of  residence.  Numbers  of  wealthy  people  live  in  Sucre, 
some  of  whom  divide  their  time  between  Paris  and  that  city,  while  others  find  life  most 
enjoyable  in  the  country,  on  their  haciendas. 

Ex-President  Don  Aniceto  Arce,  who  lived  several  years  in  Paris  in  great  luxury,  with  a 
large  household,  entertaining  almost  constantly  with  lavish  hospitality,  is  enjoying  the  later 


SENORA  DE  MANUEL  VICENTE  BALLIVTAN. 


THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET-SOCIAL  LIFE— CHARITIES 


127 


years  of  his  busy  life  in  Sucre,  and  principally  at  his  beautiful  country  estate,  which  covers 
many  leagues  in  the  same  province.  The  Alvarez  place,  near  Yotala,  a few  miles  out  of 
Sucre,  is  an  ideal  country  home,  with  gardens,  fountains,  and  a great  marble  bathing  pool : 
and  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city  the  principality  of  Glorieta,  the  Guereo  estate,  Florida,  and 
other  handsome  properties,  testify  to  the  delightful  character  of  social  life  amid  surroundings 
which  apparently  leave  nothing  to  be  desired.  Under  the  auspices  of  the  principal  clubs 
in  each  city,  balls  and  banquets  are  given  from  time  to  time,  which  are  celebrated  with  the 
eclat  usual  to  such  functions  the  world  over.  At  a ball  recently  given  by  the  Union  Club  of 
Sucre,  at  least  three-fourths  of  the  ladies  wore  gowns  imported  from  Paris.  The  dancing 
differed  little  from  the  conventional  standard  in  all  countries,  except  that  the  opening 


PREPARING  FOR  A TOURNAMENT  ON  THE  AVENUE  ARCE,  LA  PAZ. 


quadrille  was  the  stately  qiiadriUa  imperial,  inherited  from  colonial  days,  when  the  Audiencia 
of  Charcas  gave  to  its  entertainments  the  grandeur  and  formality  of  court  functions.  In 
preserving  this  tradition  of  the  past,  the  society  of  Sucre  retains  a very  picturesque  and 
beautiful  custom.  There  is  no  capital  in  South  America  of  which  the  society  is  more  aristo- 
cratic, refined,  and  cultured  than  that  of  Sucre.  In  the  homes  of  its  rich  people  are  to  be 
found  rare  ohjels  d'aii,  of  which  the  great  marvel  is  that  they  were  transported  to  their 
destination  across  leagues  of  country  in  ox-carts  or  on  muleback  without  damage.  Great 
French  mirrors,  reaching  from  floor  to  ceiling,  adorn  the  drawing  rooms;  crystal  candelabra, 
hardly  to  be  duplicated  in  any  market  to-day, hang  from. the  ceilings:  rare  old  tapestries  and 
fine  paintings  deck  the  walls;  and  in  cabinets  of  exquisite  design  are  to  be  seen  collections 


128 


BOLIVIA 


of  miniatures,  snuffboxes,  and  other  heirlooms  of  great  value.  In  some  cases  these  treas- 
ures have  been  in  the  possession  of  the  family  for  several  generations.  Sehor  Don  Arturo 

Urriolagoitia,  a connoisseur  and  collector  of 
rare  antiquities,  has  wonderfully  carved  pieces 
of  old  furniture  of  colonial  times,  fine  tapestries, 
silver  and  gold  ornaments  of  Inca  manufac- 
ture, and  a collecf  on  of  very  old  coins,  among 
them  the  celebrated  Roman  coin  bearing  on  its 
face  the  head  of  Christ,  about  which  so  much 
discussion  arose  a short  time  ago,  though  Senor 
Urriolagoitia  had  his  coin  long  before  the  famous 
“discovery.” 

Sucre  and  Cochabamba  are  located  at 
equal  distances  from  the  railroad  line  between 
Oruro  and  Antofagasta,  and  upon  the  comple- 
fon  of  the  proposed  railway  system  they  will 
both  be  directly  connected  with  it.  At  present 
it  requires  from  two  to  fve  days  by  coach 
or  muleback  to  reach  the  railway  from  either 
point;  so  that  social  life  in  Cochabamba,  as 
well  as  in  Sucre,  is  undisturbed  by  continued 
changes.  Cochabamba  families  who  trace  their 
origin  as  far  back  as  the  conquest  represent  the 
stability  of  social  forms  and  ceremonies:  and  although  the  old-fme  “pomp  and  circum- 
stance” of  colonial  days  has  given  place  to  a republican  simplicity,  there  is  still  the  same 
pride  of  race  and  dignity  of  character  that  distinguished  the  upper  classes  of  this  city  in  its 
earliest  history.  The  climate  is  ideal,  and  the  city  occupies  a magnif  cent  location  under  the 
shelter  of  the  white-crowned  mountain  of  Tunari.  The  ladies  of  Cochabamba  are  often 
spoken  of  as  Iiijas  de  Tinuiri,  “daughters  of  Tunari,”  and  they  are  proud  of  the  pretty  title. 
The  automobile  has  invaded  Cochabamba,  as  it  has  other  Bolivian  cities,  and  auto-parties 
are  popular  forms  of  amusement.  Garden  parties  are  frequent,  and  the  morning  horseback 
ride  is  among  the  features  of  the  social  routine.  At  Cala-Cala,  a picturesque  suburb,  visitors 
are  shown  the  “ Lovers’  Tree”:  and,  from  the  well-worn  path  that  leads  to  it,  the  shade  of 
its  ample  branches,  and  the  romantic  seclusion  of  the  spot,  one  judges  that  the  dear  old 
friend  of  youth  and  beauty  has  not  lived  in  vain  nor  has  the  title  been  a misnomer. 

Much  of  the  Bolivian  lady’s  time  is  devoted  to  charity.  Like  all  her  South  American 
sisters,  she  is  attentive  to  the  duties  of  her  church  and  the  various  benevolent  institutions 
which  it  sustains.  According  to  the  national  constitution,  the  municipalities  are  charged  with 
the  care  of  charitable  institutions,  the  government  making  provision  for  their  maintenance: 
but  in  addition  to  the  establishments  provided  for  by  the  state,  many  others  have  been 


SENORA  DE  JOSE  MANUEL  PANDO. 


THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET— SOCIAL  LIFE— CHARITIES 


129 


organized  by  humanitarian  and  benevolent  societies  in  every  department,  whose  members 
devote  themselves  with  charity  and  patriotism  to  the  duty  of  relieving  the  sufferings  of 
the  poor  and  the  invalid.  In  nearly  all  cases,  the  management  of  these  hospitals  and 
asylums  is  in  charge  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  under  the  supervision  of  a board  of  directors 
chosen  to  represent  the  society.  In  times  of  famine  or  epidemic,  which  have  occurred  in 
consequence  of  failures  of  the  crops  in  the  interior  districts,  the  benevolent  societies  take  it 
upon  themselves  to  assist  the  government  in  ministering  to  the  relief  of  the  stricken 
communities.  Poverty,  in  the  extreme  condition  in  which  it  is  encountered  in  the  over- 
crowded cities  of  Europe  and  North  America,  is  practically  unknown  in  Bolivia.  As  it  exists, 
it  is  generally  the  result  of  indolence  or  improvidence,  and  often  arises  from  absolute 
indifference  to  comfort  or  the  most  ordinary  requirements  of  well-being.  The  Indian  is,  in 
this  respect,  the  most  serious  charge  of  the  state,  as  his  habits  are  those  of  the  simple  child 
of  Nature  who  gives  no  thought  for  to-morrow,  and  is  satisfied  so  long  as  his  handful  of 
parched  corn  and  his  drink  of  chiclia  are  forthcoming  for  the  day.  When  these  fail  by  reason 
of  sickness  or  old  age,  which  forbid  his  earning  them,  he  becomes  an  object  of  charity,  and 
depends  upon  the  patron  or  some  benevolent  society  for  the  necessaries  of  life.  Many  of 
the  rich  landowners  have  quite  an  army  of  old  retainers  who  live  on  their  bounty,  and 
nearly  all  persons  of  wealth  contribute  to  charities.  The  Prince  and  Princess  de  Glorieta 


A CHALET  IN  THE  ALAMEDA,  LA  PAZ. 


maintain  an  orphans’  asylum  out  of  their  private  fortune,  and  visitors  to  Sucre  are  surprised 
to  find  at  Glorieta  a private  institution  so  well  attended  and  thoroughly  equipped  with  a 


BOLIVIA 


130 

good  staff  of  teachers.  The  girls  are  taught  plain  sewing,  dressmaking,  and  kindred  domestic 
work,  and  the  boys  carpentry,  shoemaking,  tailoring,  and  other  customary  trades  of  men. 

The  asylum  has  a band  of  music  well  drilled,  com- 
posed of  all  the  boys  belonging  to  the  institution. 
This  band  paid  a delicate  compliment  recently  to  two 
appreciative  North  American  visitors  by  rendering  The 
Star-spangled  Banner,  which  they  played  remark- 
ably well. 

There  are  in  Bolivia  more  than  twenty  hospitals, 
each  of  which  receives  a subsidy  from  the  govern- 
ment. In  nearly  all  of  these  the  attendants  are  Sisters 
of  Charity,  and  the  ladies  of  various  charitable  socie- 
ties are  frequent  donors.  In  La  Paz  the  hospitals 
Landaeta,  Loayza,  and  the  Lazareto  are  among  the 
most  important,  and  they  are  in  charge  of  the  Santa 
Ana  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  Hospital  Landaeta,  for 
men,  was  the  first  founded  in  La  Paz,  in 
under  the  direction  and  government  of  the  Cabildo, 
or  Municipal  Council.  In  1629  it  was  given  over  to 
the  Brotherhood  of  Saint  John,  and  in  1664  was 
rebuilt;  among  the  contributors  to  its  improvement  and  endowment  was  Senor  Don  Martin 
Landaeta  by  whose  name  it  is  now  known.  It  has  a medical  and  a surgical  department; 
a dispensary  for  oculist  work,  a pharmacy,  and  a hall  for  autopsies.  The  Loayza  Hospital 
was  founded  in  180^  by  General  Jose  Ramon  de  Loayza,  and  in  1884  a charitable  lady  of 
La  Paz,  Senora  Sanjines  Uriarte,  ordered  additions  to  be  built  to  it  at  her  own  cost.  The 
budget  for  hospital  service  has  cJoubled  in  less  than  twenty  years,  showing  the  increased 
recognition  of  the  demands  of  such  an  institution.  In  Sucre  especial  attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  hygienic  conditions  of  the  hospitals  and  asylums,  which  are  eminently  creditable 
to  the  city:  the  Hospital  of  Santa  Barbara  and  the  Asylum  2^  de  Mayo  are  particularly  well 
installed  and  attended.  The  only  insane  asylum  in  the  republic  is  the  Manicomio  Pacheco, 
of  Sucre,  so  called  in  honor  of  its  illustrious  founcJer,  GenerM  Gregorio  Pacheco,  who 
presented  it  to  the  nation  on  October  10,  1884.  It  is  built  in  modern  style,  and  its  various 
salas  are  commodious  and  well  ventilated.  It  was  constructed  at  an  outlay  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty-one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  eighty  bolivianos,  not  including  the  cost  of 
the  site.  By  a law  passed  in  188^  the  national  Congress  accepted  this  munifcent  gift 
of  the  philanthropic  patriot  and  declared  the  establishment  to  be  of  national  character, 
assigning  to  it  a subsidy  from  the  treasury  of  the  republic.  In  Cochabamba  the  Hospital 
Viedma  takes  care  of  all  patients  sent  to  it.  The  Asylum  of  the  Buen  Pastor,  in  La  Paz,  and 
similar  institutions  in  other  cities  are  designed  to  provide  for  the  lielpless  and  the  inf  rm  of 
all  ages.  The  Buen  Pastor,  “Asylum  of  the  Good  Shepherd,”  was  founded  out  of  funds 


SENORA  DE  AGUIRRE  ACHA'. 


THE  LADIES  OF  THE  CABINET-SOCIAL  LIFE-CHARITIES 


bequeathed  for  the  purpose  by  the  charitable  Sehoras  Felipa  Cordero  and  Tadea  Guachalla, 
who  left  a large  fortune  to  be  disposed  of  in  this  way.  The  noble  object  of  this  asylum 
is  to  gather  into  the  fold  un- 
fortunate women  who  have 
stepped  aside  from  the  path 
of  virtue,  and  endeavor  to  save 
them  from  further  vice  and 
crime.  It  seeks  also  to  give  in- 
struction to  women,  for  which 
purpose  a girls’  college  has 
been  attached  to  the  institution 
for  boarding  and  day  pupils. 

The  Orphans’  Home  of  La  Paz 
is  another  notable  charity  which 
has  accomplished  much  good, 
under  the  direction  of  the  nuns 
of  Saint  Vincent  de  Paul.  The 
boys’  quarters  include  a refec- 
tory, school,  tailor  shop,  printing  office,  and  shoemaking  and  carpentering  departments, 
comprising  the  entire  ground  floor,  with  a spacious  playground;  the  girls  have  laundry 
rooms,  bakery,  kitchen,  sewing  room,  and  embroidery  frames.  The  annual  cost  of  this 
institution  is  about  fifty  thousand  bolivianos,  and  the  officials  and  inmates  number  about 
three  hundred.  Contributions  have  been  made  to  this  worthy  charity  by  many  of  the 
best-known  people  of  Bolivian  society,  among  them  the  benevolent  Sehora  Modesta  Sanjines 
Uriarte,  who  spent  her  life  in  deeds  of  kindness  to  humanity,  and  left  a legacy  for  their 
continuance  after  her  death. 

In  Cochabamba  the  sentiment  of  love  for  humanity  has  inspired  many  benevolent 
efforts  on  the  part  of  ladies  of  wealth,  and  the  poor  and  suffering  are  generally  cared  for 
with  great  kindness.  In  the  provinces  of  the  Yungas,  notably  in  Coroico,  Chulumani,  and 
Achacachi,  and  in  the  city  of  Sorata,  hospitals  have  been  founded.  Oruro  has  two  hospitals, 
of  which  one  is  exclusively  for  the  miners;  Tarija  also  has  two,  the  San  Juan  de  Dios  and 
the  Lazareto;  Potosi,  Tupiza,  Colquechaca,  Pulacayo,  Santa  Cruz,  and  the  Beni — all  have 
hospitals.  In  addition  to  these,  the  government  maintains  offices  of  hygiene  and  bacteriology 
in  the  principal  cities;  and  every  effort  is  made  to  aid  the  cause  of  charity  by  removing 
the  unsanitary  conditions  which  are  so  often  responsible  for  sickness,  and  consequent  dis- 
tress and  want,  among  the  very  poor.  Indeed,  it  is  practically  useless  to  attempt  the 
amelioration  of  existing  evils  which  owe  their  origin  to  disease  and  poverty  without  first 
improving  the  surroundings  of  the  suffering  and  unfortunate.  With  this  object  in  view,  the 
charitable  people  of  Bolivia  are  considering  the  importance  of  building  better  asylums  for 
the  sick  and  the  infirm ; and  in  some  cities,  as  in  Cochabamba,  the  young  ladies  especially 


1^2 


BOLIVIA 


are  taking  a more  active  interest  than  ever  before  in  establishing  charitable  institutions.  The 
demand  for  charity  is  greater  some  years  than  others;  and  when,  as  within  a comparatively 
recent  period,  severe  droughts  in  the  agricultural  districts  have  brought  distress  in  their  train, 
the  richer  classes  have  frequently  been  called  upon  to  aid  the  government  in  relieving  the 
dire  situation.  Charitable  entertainments  are  sometimes  held  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
funds  for  benevolent  enterprises,  and  wealthy  people  contribute  largely  to  the  various 
church  societies  organized  especially  to  take  charge  of  their  less  fortunate  fellow  creatures. 

The  first  duty  of  society  is  to  its  fellow  man ; and  the  more  devoted  the  social  world 
shows  itself  to  the  cause  of  the  weak  and  the  helpless,  the  more  beautiful  is  the  national 
character.  In  spending  much  time  and  money  for  benevolent  purposes  the  ladies  of  Bolivia 
prove  themselves  worthy  of  all  admiration,  and  render  still  more  attractive  their  many 
graces  of  mind  and  person  by  adding  to  these  the  incomparable  charm  of  a kind  heart  and  a 
willing  helpfulness. 


A BOLIVIAN  DEBUTANTE. 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OE  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  Vlll 


LA  PAZ— THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT 


COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  LA  PAZ. 


'^HE  City  of  Peace,  standing  amid  the  highest  summits  of  the 
Andes,  under  the  white  light  reflected  from  the  snows  of  Illimani 
and  Sorata,  and  flashing  back,  like  the  flame  of  a torch,  the 
dazzling  sunshine  that  beats  upon  her  towers,  not  only 
symbolizes  the  lofty  human  sentiment,  which  at  the 
beginning  of  the  twentieth  century  inspires  the  world  to 
look  for  universal  concord  as  the  crowning  glory  of  civili- 
zation, but  also  typifies  the  ideal  for  which  her  brave  sons 
were  the  first  to  suffer  martyrdom  in  the  vanguard  of  the 
struggle  for  South  American  independence.  If  the  white- 
robed  Illimani  is  a worthy  sentinel  to  guard  the  sanctuary 
of  Peace,  the  blue  sky  itself  is  a fitting  cap  of  Liberty  for 
the  fair  goddess  whose  torch,  glowing  above  the  clouds, 
showed  a continent  the  way  to  freedom  a century  ago. 
Very  slowly  at  first,  the  ideals  of  tranquillity  and  liberty  developed  under  the  stifling 
influences  of  tyranny  and  greed,  and  there  was  little  in  the  early  history  of  the  city  which 
in  i5'48  the  Spanish  governor  christened  “Our  Lady  of  Peace”  to  give  promise  of  the 
fulfilment  of  her  destiny.  During  nearly  three  centuries  of  colonial  rule,  the  red  ribbon 
of  war  fluttered  more  conspicuously  upon  the  breast  of  Our  Lady  than  did  the  pure 
emblem  of  her  benign  mission,  and  the  sunshine  blazing  on  her  walls  often  typified  a 
funeral  pyre  rather  than  the  torch  of  liberty.  But  her  people  were  brave  and  resolute, 
and  if  her  history  is  full  of  incidents  of  vital  stuggle,  full  of  tragic  episodes,  and  the 
records  of  scenes  worthy  of  Homeric  description,  it  is  also  a history  of  victories  and 
triumphs  and  of  a continued  march  onward  in  the  direction  of  progress.  The  Pacehos 
are  strong  and  fearless  in  their  patriotism,  whether  leading  the  battle  in  the  national  cause 
or  resisting  an  attack  against  it,  and  their  influence  has  long  been  powerful  in  shaping 
the  destinies  of  the  country.  Unity  is  a notable  characteristic  of  the  people,  and  genuine 

MS 


1^6 


BOLIVIA 


sympathy  exists  between  the  higliest  and  the  lowest  when  they  are  inspired  to  deeds  of 
devotion  for  the  patria.  It  has  been  very  beautifully  said  that  “whether  in  the  palacio 
of  luxury  or  in  the  clw{a  of  poverty,  there  is  but  one  voice  and  one  heart,  one  soul  and 

one  duty:  the  defence  of  the 
country  and  the  maintenance 
of  its  independence,  the  lustre 
of  its  honor  in  peace  and  the 
brilliancy  of  its  arms  in  war,  is 
the  constant  preoccupation  of 
its  loyal  sons.” 

Now  that  the  times  of 
change  and  confusion  have 
given  place  to  a period  of 
steady  activity.  La  Paz  is  grow- 
ing rapidly  as  a metropolitan 
centre,  with  increasing  polit- 
ical, social,  and  commercial 
importance,  which  is  enhanced 
by  its  advantageous  situation, 
in  comparison  with  that  of 
other  cities  of  Bolivia:  with 
the  exception  of  Oruro,  it  is  as 
yet  the  only  city  of  importance 
having  direct  railway  connec- 
tion, and  the  route  via  Lake 
Titicaca,  across  which  steamers 
travel  twice  a week,  places  it 
within  easy  access  of  the  Peru- 
vian seaport,  Mollendo.  Within 
a short  time  it  will  have  a 
quicker  route,  requiring  only  a few  hours,  to  the  seaport  of  Arica.  The  approach  to  the  city 
by  railway  from  Guaqui,  the  port  of  Lake  Titicaca,  through  which  passengers  from  Peru 
enter  Bolivia  on  their  way  to  La  Paz,  is  a surprise  which  impresses  all  tourists  by  its 
novelty.  After  a two  hours’  ride  across  the  plateau,  with  the  great  Andean  range  always  in 
view  and  the  snowy  peaks  of  Illimani  and  Sorata  claiming  special  attention  as  they  stand 
out  in  pristine  splendor  against  the  bluest  of  skies,  suddenly  a great  pit  yawns  in  front  of  the 
traveller,  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  deep,  walled  on  three  sides,  and  opening  into  a 
cjiiArdiLi,  or  canon,  on  the  fourth:  in  its  depth,  sloping  toward  the  canon  and  appearing 
like  a cluster  of  miniature  dwellings,  as  seen  from  the  heights  above,  lies  La  Paz,  twelve 
thousand  fve  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  one  of  the  highest  cities  of  the  world. 


POST  OFFICE.  LA  PAZ. 


LA  PAZ—THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT 


The  great  Titicaca  plateau  which  stretches  a hundred  thousand  square  kilometres  around  the 
lake,  approaches  its  limit  at  La  Paz,  where  the  Andes  rise  in  towering  majesty,  the  rugged 
depths  of  their  quelvadas  giving  picturesqueness  to  a scene  of  imposing  grandeur.  The 
descent  from  the  railroad  terminus  at  El  Alto,  as  the  station  on  the  heights  above  La  Paz  is 
called,  to  the  city,  is  made  in  an  electric  car,  built  after  the  latest  modern  style,  and  having  a 
capacity  equal  to  that  of  the  cars  used  in  the  service  of  the  large  North  American  cities.  The 
panorama  presented  to  view  as  the  car  glides  down  the  mountain  and  around  its  curves  is 
ever-varying  and  unique,  the  red-tiled  roofs  of  the  city,  the  patches  of  green  where  parks 
and  gardens  have  been  carefully  cultivated,  and  the  generally  foreign  appearance,  lending 
a charm  which  the  quaintness  of  gayly  dressed  figures  that  move  along  the  road  behind 
groups  of  llamas  or  donkeys 
loaded  with  produce,  on  their 
way  to  market,  renders  still 
more  absorbingly  interesting. 

The  Indian  of  the  plateau  is 
as  gorgeous  a spectacle  as  the 
imagination  can  dream  of,  his 
poncho,  or  shawl,  suggesting 
a splash  of  red,  yellow,  or 
green  against  the  most  sombre 
of  backgrounds,  for  there  is 
nothing  hilarious  in  the  man- 
ner of  the  Aymara;  he  takes 
his  pleasures,  like  his  troubles, 
with  a more  stoic  indiffer- 
ence than  his  neighbor,  the 
Quichua,  who  seems  more 
gentle  and  more  volatile  in 
character.  These  are  differ- 
ences often  noted  between 
the  inhabitants  of  high  alti- 
tudes and  those  of  the  valleys; 
at  twelve  thousand  feet  above 
sea  level  one  learns  not  to  be 
too  demonstrative. 

The  city  of  La  Paz  is 

, STREET  SCENE,  SHOWING  HILLS  IN  THE  DISTANCE,  LA  PAZ. 

located  at  the  source  of  the 

Chuquiapu  River,  which  Rows  through  a cleft  in  the  Andean  range,  believed  to  have 
formerly  connected  Lake  Titicaca  with  the  Amazon  system.  The  history  of  the  city  is 
as  old  as  the  records  of  time.  Under  the  Aymara  dynasties  it  was  called  Chuquiabo, 


138 


BOLIVIA 


and  was  celebrated  as  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  the  province  of  Collasuyo; 
later,  when  the  Incas  conquered  this  territory,  the  name  was  changed  to  Chuquiapu,  by 
which  it  was  known  until  upon  its  site  was  founded  the  City  of  Our  Lady  of  Peace, 


HOSPITAL  AND  MUSEUM,  LA  PAZ. 


the  name  being  again  changed,  after  the  crowning  victory  of  the  Independence,  to  La  Paz 
de  Ayacucho,  by  which  the  city  is  now  known.  From  the  most  ancient  times  it  has 
been  famous  as  the  centre  of  a rich  gold-producing  region,  the  name  Chuquiapu  signifying 
“the  place  of  gold”;  and  in  primitive  days  the  people  of  this  town  worshipped  with 
especial  reverence  a guaca,  or  idol,  which  they  called  Cheque  Guanca, — “ the  lord  of  gold 
never  decreasing.”  Another  object  of  adoration  among  the  earliest  inhabitants  was  the 
snow-capped  Illimani,  its  name  meaning  “everlasting,”  though  the  origin  of  the  word  is 
said  to  be  Hillemana, — “where  the  sun  rises,” — from  the  location  of  the  mountain,  which 
stands  eastward  of  the  city.  After  the  conquest,  the  cupidity  of  the  Spaniards  soon  attracted 
them  to  the  locality  where  gold  was  known  to  be  abundant:  and  Francisco  Pizarro  himself 
visited  the  place  in  1 5"4o,  setting  apart  as  his  own  one  of  its  principal  gold  mines,  which 
produced  for  him  a large  fortune.  During  the  quarrels  and  fighting  that  marked  the 
years  following  the  conquest,  when  the  struggle  for  supremacy  separated  the  conquerors 
into  opposing  forces,  Chuquiapu  was  a central  battled  eld,  from  its  position  midway  between 
Charcas  and  the  Spanish  strongholds  in  Peru:  and  it  was  appropriately  chosen  as  the  site 
upon  which  to  commemorate  the  establishment  of  peace  after  the  defeat  and  death  of  the 


LA  PA Z— THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT 


139 


disturbing  warrior,  Gonzalo  Pizarro.  Consistently  with  Spanish  custom,  the  founders,  after 
taking  possession  in  the  name  of  King  Charles  V.,  began  the  building  of  a church, 
which  they  dedicated  to  San  Pedro ; later.  King  Charles  presented  the  city  with  an  image 
of  the  Virgin  of  Pilar  de  Zaragoza  as  patrona,  which  to-day  is  revered  as  Our  Lady  of 
the  Assumption.  The  present  church  of  San  Sebastian  is  a reconstruction  of  the  San 
Pedro  church. 

At  the  time  of  its  foundation  the  city  numbered  fifty  Spanish  residents;  and  so  slowly 
did  colonists  arrive  in  this  remote  mountain  retreat,  even  with  the  powerful  attraction  which 
its  mineral  resources  held  for  the  adventurous  fortune  seekers  of  those  days,  that  a quarter 
of  a century  later  the  citizens  of  pure  Spanish  blood  numbered  only  a little  more  than  two 
hundred.  Gradually  the  city  was  built  up,  with  plazas,  streets,  and  roads  to  the  outlying 
country  districts,  and  some  of 
the  buildings  erected  at  that 
time  are  still  in  existence.  The 
renowned  Spanish  historian 
Pedro  Cieza  de  Leon  visited 
La  Paz  soon  after  the  conquest, 
and  the  Inca  historian  Garci- 
laso  de  la  Vega,  to  whom  the 
modern  writers  on  this  and 
previous  periods  of  South 
American  culture  are  chiefly 
indebted,  spent  some  time  in 
the  study  of  its  events.  The 
coat  of  arms  presented  by 
Charles  V.  is  still  preserved 
as  a precious  heritage;  sur- 
mounted by  a helmet  on  which 
rests  a dove  with  the  olive 
branch  in  its  beak,  the  centre 
shows  a garland  of  roses  in- 
tertwined with  four  serpents, 
and  in  the  distant  perspective 
a snow  mountain,  from  the 
base  of  which  a river  flows, 
having  on  its  opposite  banks 
the  lion  and  the  lamb  in  peace- 
ful and  friendly  attitude;  th.e  entire  design  is  emblematic  of  peace,  the  border  of  the  shield 
bearing  the  legend:  “Discords  in  harmony,  they  united  in  peace  and  love  and  founded  the 
city  of  La  Paz  for  perpetual  memory.” 


PRINCIPAL  ALTAR  IN  THE  JESUIT  TEMPLE.  LA  PAZ, 


140 


BOLIVIA 


Although  La  Paz  had  its  triste  scenes  of  conflict  and  disaster  in  colonial  days,  it  had  also 
its  events  of  great  rejoicing  and  magnificent  display,  as  upon  the  occasion  when  the  most 
illustrious  of  the  viceroys,  Francisco  de  Toledo,  Count  of  Oropesa,  visited  the  city  in  1^72, 


AVENIDA  ARCE.  LA  PAZ. 


attended  with  all  the  pomp  and  ceremony  that  distinguished  a viceregal  reception  in  those 
days  of  abounding  formalities:  the  short  residence  of  his  court  in  its  midst  converted  the 
City  of  Peace  into  a scene  of  splendor  and  gayety,  and  constituted  a social  triumph  which 
remained  a proud  recollection  for  years  afterward.  The  viceroy  enacted  notable  reforms  in 
the  administration  of  the  city  and  province,  especially  regarding  the  government  of  the 
Indians,  whom  he  desired,  above  all  things,  to  bring  within  the  influences  of  civilization  and 
Christian  teaching. 

It  was  the  exception  and  not  the  rule  when  the  Spaniards  devoted  themselves  to  the 
interests  of  the  conquered  race;  and  as  the  first  century  passed,  the  injustice  which  had 
begun  against  the  Indians  was  further  directed  against  all  the  American  born,  the  Spanish 
authorities  showing  favor  to  immigrants  from  their  own  country,  regardless  of  merit,  while 
the  natives  of  the  new  country  were  oppressed  and  downtrodden.  It  was  this  disposition 
which  first  divided  the  colony  into  two  opposing  parties,  and  which  finally  accomplished  its 
independence  from  Spain.  To  La  Paz,  as  has  been  stated  elsewhere,  belongs  the  honor  of 
having  numbered  among  its  sons  the  redoubtable  hero  who  raised  the  standard  of  “America 
for  the  Americans  ” more  than  two  hundred  years  ago.  The  same  city  supported  one  of  the 
most  determined  and  terrible  sieges  recorded  in  history,  fighting  day  and  night  for  one 
hundred  and  sixty-nine  days  against  the  memorable  attack  of  the  Indian  Tupac-Catari.  In 
recognition  of  such  noble  heroism,  the  city  received  from  the  Spanish  crown  in  1794  the 


LA  PA Z— THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOHERNMENT 


141 

royal  decree  bestowing  upon  it  the  title  of  “most  noble,  valorous,  and  faithful.”  The  brave 
commander  of  the  besieged  city,  Don  Sebastian  de  Segurola,  was  made  first  Governor- 
Intendent  of  La  Paz,  in  reward  for  his  services. 

Among  the  precious  archives  of  the  city  is  preserved  the  story  of  one  of  the  greatest 
heroes  of  the  New  World,  the  patriot  Murillo,  whose  martyrdom  set  the  seal  of  glory  upon 
a career  of  unfailing  devotion  to  the  cause  of  liberty,  and  proved  a beacon  light  to  illumine 
the  field  of  battle  and  bring  courage  to  the  hearts  of  struggling  patriots,  from  the  Titicaca 
plateau  to  the  remotest  corners  of  Spanish  dominion  in  America.  Indeed,  La  Paz  was  one 
of  the  chief  centres  around  which  gathered  the  lovers  of  liberty  among  the  oppressed  during 
all  the  centuries  of  colonial  rule  in  Alto  Peru;  and  though  the  systematic  efforts  of  the  few 
cultured  leaders  of  republicanism,  whose  training  had  been  received  in  the  University  of 
Chuquisaca  and  fortified  by  European 
travel,  brought  to  a climax  the  final 
preparations  for  the  revolution  that 
swept  the  Spaniards  from  the  con- 
tinent, the  persistent  and  determined 
fight  of  the  Pacehos,  through  long 
centuries,  had  its  powerful  effect  upon 
the  spirit  of  the  revolution  from  the 
beginning. 

Since  the  establishment  of  the 
republic.  La  Paz  has  continued  to  play 
an  important  part  as  the  aggressive 
power  in  politics;  the  attitude  of  the 
Pacehos  has  never  been  a negative 
one,  but,  whether  right  or  wrong,  they 
have  been  unequivocal  in  the  declara- 
tion of  their  purposes  and  meaning. 

There  is  something  modernly  “stren- 
uous” in  the  La  Paz  character.  This 
is  shown  in  the  predominating  quali- 
ties of  its  leading  men,  who  have 
been  particularly  noted  for  their  great 
energy,  resource,  and  self-poise. 

The  population  of  La  Paz,  accord- 
ing to  the  last  census,  is  seventy  thou- 
sand, of  which  about  one  thousand  are 
foreigners,  the  Germans  leading  in  number  among  those  of  foreign  birth  here,  as  in  nearly 
all  other  South  American  cities.  Although  the  city  lies  within  the  tropics,  at  sixteen  degrees 
south  latitude  and  sixty-eight  degrees  west  longitude  from  Greenwich,  its  altitude  so  affects 


142 


BOLIl/IA 


the  climate  that  the  weather  is  cool  even  in  the  hottest  months  and  very  cold  during  the 
winter  season.  The  most  agreeable  months  for  visiting  La  Paz  are  those  of  spring-,  which  are 
September,  October,  and  November  in  countries  south  of  the  equator.  Notwithstanding  the 

formerly  isolated  position  of 
the  city,  its  great  altitude  and 
the  difficulties  of  communica- 
tion with  the  outside  world,  the 
degree  of  progress  attained  has 
been  in  some  respects  remark- 
able. Until  1903  there  was  no 
railway  out  of  the  city,  the 
nearest  connecting  line  being 
that  from  Oruro  to  Antofagasta, 
reached  only  after  a two  or 
three  days’  ride  by  diligence 
from  La  Paz  to  Oruro;  and  it  is 
only  about  ten  years  since  the 
Oruro  and  Antofagasta  Railway 
was  established  in  complete 
and  permanent  service.  Previous  to  that  time,  all  the  inconveniences  attending  transportation 
over  long  distances,  and  with  the  drawbacks  inevitable  to  the  nature  of  a mountainous 
country,  had  to  be  overcome  by  the  people  of  La  Paz  in  their  effort  to  build  up  and  improve 
their  city.  The  only  freight  system  was  one  of  carts,  mules,  and  llamas,  and  the  proverbial 
disinclination  to  haste,  which  is  characteristic  of  the  Indian  driver,  and  excusable  at  such 
great  altitude,  made  the  process  of  construction  slower  and  even  more  expensive  than  it 
would  be  under  favorable  circumstances.  Yet  the  city  has  many  fine  buildings,  some  of 
them  four  or  five  stories  in  height,  though  the  general  average  is  of  two-story  construction. 
The  streets  are  well  paved,  usually  of  the  same  width  as  the  traditional  Spanish  calle;  some 
of  them  are  of  quite  modern  appearance.  As  the  city  is  built,  for  the  greater  part,  on  the 
sloping  hillsides,  walking  is  only  pleasant  in  the  parks  and  avenues,  for  the  location  of  which 
level  ground  has  been  chosen.  Owing  to  its  sheltered  location,  the  difficulties  attending  the 
culture  of  trees  and  flowers  at  such  a height  are  less  than  might  be  imagined.  The  Plaza 
Murillo  is  a beautiful  garden,  perfumed  by  the  sweetest  of  roses  and  other  flowers,  and 
shaded  by  broad-branching  trees,  while  the  Alameda  is  an  ideal  paseo,  arched  by  many 
stately  trees,  and  possessing  the  charm  of  an  urban  park,  with  its  fountains  and  pools,  and 
handsome  monuments  adorning  it,  erected  to  commemorate  noted  historical  events,  or  to 
honor  the  heroes  to  whose  bravery  the  nation  owes  a debt  of  eternal  gratitude. 

The  Plaza  Murillo,  to-day  a popular  breathing  space  between  the  ascents  of  the  hilly 
streets,  and  brilliant  several  evenings  each  week  with  the  gayety  of  passing  throngs  whose 
light  footsteps  keep  time  to  the  music  of  the  inspiring  military  band,  occupies  the  spot 


PLAZA  AND  GRAN  HOTEL  GUIBERT,  LA  PAZ. 


LA  PAZ—THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT 


143 


where  the  first  declaration  of  Bolivian  independence  from  Spain  was  proclaimed  in  1809, 
and  where  the  gibbet  was  erected  upon  which  the  celebrated  martyr  of  liberty,  Pedro 
Domingo  Murillo,  paid  with  his  life  for  declaring  the  noble  principles  of  patriotism  which  all 
the  world  has  since  learned  to  honor  and  admire.  It  has  also  been  the  scene  of  many 
thrilling  episodes  in  the  history  of  the  republic,  and  it  was  the  centre  around  which  culmi- 
nated some  of  the  most  important  climaxes  of  the  civil  wars  which  from  time  to  time 
disturbed  the  peace  of  the  country,  until  government  was  finally  established  upon  a firm 
basis.  Through  the  initiative  of  Sehor  Don  Felipe  Pinilla  in  1894,  the  plaza  was  con- 
verted into  the  present  beautiful  park;  the  handsome  fountain  of  marble  adorning 
the  centre  was,  however,  constructed  in  18^^,  the  work  of  an  Indian  of  remarkable  talent, 
Feliciano  Cantula. 

The  Alameda,  like  the  Plaza  Murillo,  has  its  historical  value,  having  been  the  theatre  of 
war  upon  many  notable  occasions.  But  nothing  more  suggestive  of  peace  exists  in  the  city 
to-day  than  this  avenue  of  trees,  with  its  broad  driveways,  promenades,  sequestered  resting 
places,  and  its  numerous  attractions  for  grown  people  and  children  in  the  graceful  swans  of  its 
pools,  the  goldfish  that  play  in  its  fountains,  and  similar  charming  features.  It  is  divided 
into  five  avenues,  the  central  pHseo  being  particularly  beautiful  because  of  its  adornment, 
while  the  outer  avenues  are  paved  for  vehicles  and  promenaders.  Rows  of  trees  separate 
the  drives  and  walks,  and  give 
to  the  Alameda  the  appearance 
of  a well-wooded  park,  which 
is  nearly  half  a mile  in  length. 

At  night  it  is  lighted  by  twenty 
large  electric  lights,  placed  at 
intervals  down  the  central  ave- 
nue. The  main  arch  of  the 
gateway  at  the  entrance  from 
the  suburban  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
cordia and  the  Avenida  Arce 
was  taken  from  a convent 
cloister  and  set  up  in  1828,  the 
remaining  portals  being  of 
much  more  recent  date.  On 
passing  out  of  the  Alameda 
through  the  picturesque  gate- 
way, the  popular  pjseo  is  pro- 
longed through  the  Plaza  de  la 
Concordia  and  the  Avenida  Arce — or  “ 12  de  Diciembre,”  as  it  has  been  recently  renamed — as 
far  as  Obrajes,  about  a league  from  the  city.  To  the  south  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Concordia, 
and  a mile  distant,  lies  Sopocachi,  a very  pretty  suburb  located  on  the  hill  of  the  same  name 


144 


BOLIVIA 


and  commanding  a superb  view.  Potopoto,  on  the  road  from  the  city  to  Obrajes,  is  one 
of  the  most  fertile  and  picturesque  stretches  of  the  campina,  or  suburbs,  presenting  a 
perspective  of  exuberant  vegetation ; and,  overlooking  it,  the  heights  of  Santa  Barbara  offer 

an  attractive  site  for  the  erec- 
tion of  pretty  chalets.  These 
suburbs  are  almost  as  much 
frequented  as  the  Alameda; 
and  as  they  form  an  extension 
of  this  popular  thoroughfare  of 
leisure,  they  are  being  contin- 
ually improved  and  beautified 
to  harmonize  with  it. 

La  Paz  being  the  present 
seat  of  national  government, 
all  the  palaces  of  the  adminis- 
tration are  located  here,  with 
the  exception  of  the  Supreme 
Court  and  the  archbishop’s 
palace,  which  remain  at  the 
official  capital,  Sucre.  The 
executive  palace  occupies  a 
handsome  three-story  stone 
building,  overlooking  the  principal  plaza;  and  facing  the  same  public  square,  stand  the 
buildings  in  which  are  the  offices  of  the  minister  of  foreign  affairs  and  those  of  the  minister 
of  justice  and  instruction.  The  presidential  palace  is  of  modern  construction,  having  been 
built  in  1883  to  replace  the  old  palace,  called  El  Palacio  Terrible,  which  was  destroyed  by 
fire.  The  old  palace  was  begun  by  General  Jose  Ballivian  in  1845',  and  completed  by  Presi- 
dent Belzu  in  i8p,  when  it  was  formally  occupied  for  the  first  time.  It  was  the  scene  of 
most  of  the  dramatic  climaxes  which  diversified  the  political  history  of  Bolivia  through  the 
years  during  which  the  palace  existed,  and  it  witnessed  the  vagaries  of  one  or  two  rulers 
who  seem  to  have  taken  the  worst  of  the  Roman  emperors  for  their  models. 

With  the  date  of  its  destruction  began  a period  of  peace,  signalizing  the  political  regen- 
eration of  the  country.  President  Frias,  who  made  a temporary  palace  of  the  ruined  edifice, 
was  one  of  the  best  rulers  under  the  new  system.  He  was  opposed  to  the  “gold  braid” 
features  which  had  been  so  conspicuous  among  some  of  his  predecessors,  and  he  possessed 
none  of  the  affectations  of  power.  A humorous  story,  which  not  only  reveals  the  democratic 
spirit  of  the  president,  but  shows  the  amour  propre  of  his  aid-de-camp  as  well,  illustrates 
the  point.  While  passing  along  the  street,  on  foot,  accompanied  by  his  aid.  President  Frias 
became  annoyed  by  the  change  of  position  which  his  officer  made  at  every  turn  in  order  to 
keep  the  curb,  and,  turning  to  the  young  man,  he  said:  “I  don’t  like  this  dancing  the 


LA  PA Z— THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOPERNMENT 


quadrille  on  the  street;  please  keep  your  place,  without  changing  it  at  every  turn.”  A few 
moments  later  the  “quadrille”  was  repeated,  and  the  president  reprimanded  his  aid,  at  the 
same  time  explaining  that  he  did  not  object  to  walking  next  to  the  curb.  “Ahl  your 
excellency,”  replied  the  young  officer,  “ 1 do  not  change  on  your  account,  but  on  my  own. 
Everybody  will  think  that  I db  not  know  the  etiquette  of  the  street,  which  requires  me  to 
walk  next  to  the  curb  when  accompanying  the  president.”  The  story  may  have  been  em- 
bellished in  the  telling,  but  it  serves  to  illustrate  two  very  different,  though  thoroughly 
Bolivian,  types  of  character. 

The  building  now  occupied  by  the  chief  executive  was  finished  and  opened,  on  July  24, 
1883,  for  the  inauguration  of  the  National  Exposition  to  celebrate  the  first  centenary  of  the 
birth  of  Simon  Bolivar,  the  great  liberator.  It  is  rather  too  small  for  the  purposes  of  an 
executive  palace,  and  will  be  abandoned  on  the  completion  of  the  new  palace,  which 
is  being  built  on  an  adjoining  corner  of  the  square.  But  it  presents  a very  attractive 
appearance,  and  is  of  solid  construction,  being  built  of  hewn  stone;  the  corridors  which 
surround  the  interior  patio  are  supported  by  stone  pillars,  the  portico  and  grand  staircase 
being  of  marble.  The  new  palace  will  be  two  stories  in  height,  but  much  more  spacious 
than  the  present  one;  the  first  floor  will  be  occupied  by  the  executive,  and  the  second  by 
the  legislative  bodies.  It  will  be  one  of  the  handsomest  modern  buildings  in  La  Paz. 

The  magnificent  cathedral  of  La  Paz,  which  has  been  under  construction  for  three- 
quarters  of  a century,  and  which,  when  completed,  will  probably  be  the  largest  and  costliest 
cathedral  built  in  South  Amer- 
ica since  the  Independence, 
stands  beside  the  present  gov- 
ernment palace,  occupying  the 
remainder  of  that  side  of  the 
principal  plaza.  The  cathedral 
was  begun  in  183^,  but  many 
circumstances  have  combined 
to  delay  the  work,  the  cost  of 
which  is  enormous,  while  the 
facilities  for  carrying  it  to  com- 
pletion are  limited.  The  origi- 
nal design  for  the  cathedral 
was  made  by  a Bolivian  archi- 
tect, Padre  Manuel  Sanauja, 
who  was  also  the  architect  of 
the  beautiful  cathedral  of  Po- 
tosi.  In  1843,  the  foundations 
were  laid  and  President  Ballivian  brought  stonecutters  from  Europe  to  teach  the  natives  how 
to  chisel  and  polish  the  stones,  so  that  the  work  might  continue  without  depending  upon 


146 


BOLiyiA 


foreign  help.  The  Indians  proved  very  apt  pupils  and  their  work  is  quite  as  good  as  that 
of  their  teachers.  But  it  could  hardly  be  expected  that  an  undertaking  of  such  great 
importance,  and  essentially  a product  of  peaceful  conditions,  would  progress  rapidly  in  the 

troublous  times  of  the  first 
fifty  years  of  the  republic.  It 
was  continually  interrupted, 
and  in  1883  an  additional  delay 
was  caused  by  the  loss  of  the 
plans.  An  order  was  sent  to 
an  Italian  architect  of  distinc- 
tion, Count  Vespignani,  the 
principal  architect  of  the  Vati- 
can, to  make  new  plans,  and 
the  work  was  renewed.  After 
several  changes,  the  direction 
of  the  edifice  was  given,  by  a 
resolution  of  the  government 
in  1900,  to  Sehor  Camponoro, 
who,  finding  Count  Vespi- 
gnani’s  plans  inadequate,  pre- 
pared others,  which  were 
adopted.  The  work  is  now 
proceeding  with  regularity,  and 
will  no  doubt  be  completed 
soon.  The  edifice  will  have 
capacity  for  seating  twelve 
thousand  people,  and  will 
cover  a surface  of  four  thousand  square  metres.  It  is  of  Greco-Roman  style,  and  the 
interior  has  five  naves,  all  the  pillars  which  support  the  arches  being  of  polished  stone. 
The  two  towers  will  reach  a height  of  nearly  two  hundred  feet,  and  the  central  cupola 
will  be  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  The  principal  altar  will  be  of  bercngiiela,  a native 
marble,  which  is  found  in  abundance  in  several  provinces.  About  one  hundred  thousand 
bolivianos  are  provided  annually  for  this  colossal  work.  Besides  the  cathedral,  the  city 
possesses  many  beautiful  churches;  according  to  statistics,  there  are  thirteen  churches,  five 
public  chapels,  five  convents,  and  three  monasteries.  Of  these  the  old  church  and  convent 
of  San  Francisco  have  peculiar  interest,  as  they  occupy  the  second  church  building  erected 
in  the  city  in  1 1^47.  The  present  edifice  was  built  during  the  eighteenth  century  and  com- 
pleted in  1778,  when  it  was  dedicated  with  impressive  ceremonies.  Next  to  the  new 
cathedral,  it  is  the  most  beautiful  church  in  La  Paz,  at  least  as  seen  from  the  outside,  as 
the  fagade  is  entirely  composed  of  carved  stone  of  exquisite  design  and  workmanship. 


CHURCH  OF  LA  MERCED,  LA  PAZ. 


LA  PAZ—THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOEERNMENT 


147 


The  interior  has  three  naves,  and  there  are  eight  altars,  besides  the  main  altar  which  is  of 
carved  cedar  in  decorative  design.  The  convent,  which  can  accommodate  two  hundred 
inmates,  though  only  fourteen  friars  occupy  it  at  present,  has  recently  been  reconstructed 
with  funds  provided  by  the  legacy  of  Sehora  Maria  Galindo,  one  of  the  many  rich  women  of 
La  Paz  who  have  left  fortunes  to  the  church  and  to  charities.  Its  library  is  one  of  the  largest 
in  Bolivia.  Another  old  church  is  Santo  Domingo,  which  serves  as  the  cathedral.  All  the 
great  church  pageants  and  the  civic  fiestas  are  celebrated  here.  There  is  little  variety  in 
the  architecture  of  the  remaining  churches  and  convents,  all  of  which  follow  a similar  style. 


CALLE  DEL  COMERCIO,  LA  PAZ. 


Among  the  more  important  of  the  modern  public  buildings,  the  post  office  and  the  building 
occupied  by  the  Direccion  General  de  Telegrafos  attract  attention.  The  penitentiary  of 
San  Pedro  is  a large  modern  structure,  and  a visit  to  its  various  wards  is  an  interesting 
experience.  It  was  built  during  the  administration  of  President  Pacheco,  who  laid  the 
cornerstone  on  July  i^,  188^.  It  covers  nine  thousand  square  metres,  and  the  interior  is 
divided  into  two  separate  wings,  one  for  men  and  the  other  for  women.  The  ventilation 
and  sanitary  conditions  are  fairly  good,  and  the  inmates  are  well  cared  for. 

The  National  Custom  House,  which  occupies  what  was  formerly  part  of  the  cloister  of 
San  Francisco,  is  one  of  the  public  buildings  which  is  constantly  increasing  in  importance  as 


148 


BOLiyiA 


the  commercial  life  of  the  city  develops  and  extends.  It  is  the  centre  of  a busy  section; 
just  across  the  street,  an  open-air  market  attracts  the  miscellaneous  crowd  which  is  a feature 
of  “ Cheapside  ” all  over  the  world.  The  principal  market  occupies  the  site  of  the  former 


SUBURBS  OF  LA  PAZ,  WI'I  H VIEW  OF  ILLIMANI  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


convent  of  the  friars  of  Saint  Augustine.  It  is  centrally  located,  and  is  a sight  worth  seeing 
on  the  popular  market  days.  Not  only  is  the  market  building  full  to  overflowing,  but  all  the 
neighboring  streets  are  packed  with  people  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Groups  of  vendors 
sit  along  the  edge  of  the  curb,  with  their  vegetables,  fruits,  and  flowers  spread  in  front  of 
them  on  the  ground;  and  as  there  is  often  a whole  family  in  charge  of  a bunch  of  flowers, 
the  conversation  necessary  to  close  even  the  smallest  bargain  would  tax  the  vocabulary  of  a 
diplomat.  Politeness  will  often  do  more  than  money  to  accomplish  a desirable  purchase. 
The  question  of  disposing  of  her  stock  seems  to  be  the  least  of  the  marketwoman’s 
thoughts.  Apparently,  she  seeks  first  a congenial  atmosphere,  where  she  can  share  in  the 
general  gossip,  and  then  she  disposes  of  her  baby, — there  is  nearly  always  a baby,  a cunning 
little  brown  creature,  good-natured  and  wide-eyed,  and  wearing  little  more  than  a knitted 
cap  with  eaiiaps,  which  f nishes  in  a sharp  cone  on  the  crown  of  its  tiny  head, — and  she  is 
ready  for  all  who  come,  and  equally  contented  whether  anyone  buys  or  not,  so  far  as  one 
can  tell  from  her  countenance.  As  the  crowd  in  the  market  place  often  includes  sightseers 
and  their  friends,  it  is  not  unusual  to  encounter  high  hats  and  frock  coats,  Parisian  daintiness 
and  tourist  severity,  in  the  midst  of  the  more  permanent  features  of  the  market,  and  the 
effect  is  like  a glimpse  of  Broadway  or  Piccadilly  in  a Turkish  bazaar — though  the  prevailing 


LA  PAZ—THE  PRESENT  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT 


149 


type  of  marketwoman  is  more  Japanese  than  Turkish.  The  “color  scheme”  of  the  La  Paz 
market  is  one  of  ravishing  splendor.  It  glows  and  radiates  like  a moving  prism  under  the 
strong  light  of  the  sun  on  the  high  plateau.  Wherever  there  is  color  it  seems  intensified, 
and  the  bright  blues,  yellows,  and  greens  of  the  ponchos  and  voluminous  velvet  skirts  are 
not  more  persistent  than  the  tones  of  the  adobe  walls  in  this  neighborhood,  painted  to 
match  the  costumes.  Even  the  vegetables  and  the  flowers  appear  dyed  in  the  deepest 
hues:  the  sky  is  bluer,  the  tleecy  clouds  are  whiter;  it  is  as  if  Nature  amused  herself  in 
this  little  corner  of  her  domain  by  putting  great  splashes  of  color  on  everything,  to  offset  the 
severity  of  her  grays  and  browns  in  the  dreary  stretches  of  highland  plain  which  she  has  so 
prodigally  bestowed  on  Bolivia,  and  which  geographers  call  the  Altaplanicie. 

Leaving  the  market  reluctantly,  as  foreigners  usually  do,  a sightseeing  tour  takes  one  to 
numerous  other  buildings  of  interest,  among  them  the  Military  College  in  the  Alameda,  the 
School  of  Medicine,  the  Intendencia  de  la  Guerra,  or  War  Office,  the  university,  the  Museum 
and  Public  Library,  and  the  spacious  rooms  of  the  Geographic  Society  of  La  Paz,  the  best- 
equipped  institution  of  its  kind  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  Municipal  Theatre  is  one 
of  the  city’s  attractive  features,  and  the  principal  club  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  most 
prominent  men  in  political,  financial,  and  literary  circles.  It  is  exclusively  a man’s  club,  though 
receptions  and  balls  are  given  from  time  to  time  to  which  the  families  and  friends  of  the 
members  are  invited.  A few  months  ago  the  distinguished  courtesy  of  honorary  member- 
ship was  extended  to  two  North  American  ladies,  the  first  “ petticoats  ” to  invade  this  Eveless 
paradise  with  the  rights  of  membership.  It  afforded  an  opportunity  to  see  the  club  under 
the  best  auspices;  and  the  experience  served  to  prove  that  the  best  clubs,  like  the  best 
gentlemen,  are  much  the  same  the  world  over,  whether  housed  in  marble  palaces  or 
amid  more  modest,  and  often  more  comfortable,  surroundings.  The  club  building  overlooks 
the  Plaza  Murillo  and  its  windows  command  a view  of  the  evening  promenade,  when  La  Paz 
society  takes  its  outing  under  the  trees  of  that  pretty  park.  There  are  ten  plazas  in  the  city, 
several  of  them  beautiful : the  Plaza  Alonzo  de  Mendoza  was  the  Churupampa  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Chuquiapu  before  the  Spaniards  came,  and  is  a popular  resort  for  the  people 
of  this  district:  it  is  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  city,  near  the  church  of  San  Sebastian. 
Although  one  fails  to  notice  at  first  that  La  Paz  is  crossed  not  only  by  the  Chuquiapu,  but 
by  other  small  rivers,  this  fact  is  made  prominent  as  attention  is  called  to  the  existence  of  no 
less  than  twenty-one  bridges  over  these  streams  in  various  parts  of  the  city.  The  bridges 
are  of  solid  construction,  that  of  San  Francisco  being  of  iron,  and  of  French  manufacture. 
Nearly  all  the  others  are  of  stone  construction. 

Commercially,  La  Paz  is  the  most  important  city  of  Bolivia,  and  everything  indicates  an 
increase  in  international  trade.  A Chamber  of  Commerce  has  been  organized  to  promote 
business  interests,  and  the  existence  of  six  banks  and  several  banking  agencies  facilitates 
commercial  transactions.  The  industrial  enterprises  of  the  city  are  growing,  the  annual 
production  from  its  manufactures  being  estimated  at  five  million  bolivianos,  though  industrial 
development  is  in  its  infancy.  To  the  prefect  of  the  department.  General  Fermin  Prudencio, 


1^0 


BOLIVIA 


is  due  much  of  the  credit  for  public  improvements  inaugurated  within  the  past  few 
years.  A Municipal  Council,  composed  of  twelve  members,  has  charge  of  the  affairs 
of  the  municipality.  The  city  is  lighted  by  electricity,  and  has  a complete  telephone 
system.  It  has  some  modern  conveniences  which  would  be  entirely  unlooked  for  in  the 
far-away  city  of  La  Paz,  even  at  the  present  period  of  universal  progress.  Imagine  the  sur- 
prise of  finding  a trolley  car  waiting  at  the  Alto  station  when  one  arrives  from  Lake  Titicaca, 
ready  to  take  one  “ coasting  ” down  an  incline  of  one  thousand  f ve  hundred  feet  and  around 
swinging  curves,  at  a rate  of  speed  that  makes  automobiling  tame  sport  I A telegraph  system 
which  permits  a private  conference  at  one’s  leisure  with  the  remote  department  capitals, 
while  seated  in  a comfortable  sala  of  the  director-general’s  office,  is  a modern  convenience 
not  to  be  improved  upon.  Hotels  provided  with  electric  lights  and  electric  bells,  with  tele- 
phone and  messenger  service,  as  at  the  Gran  Hotel  Guibert,  are  not  so  behind  the  times  as  we 
are  taught  to  believe  everything  must  be  which  is  encountered  beyond  the  highways  of 
travel.  We  are  very  proud  of  the  modern  conveniences  which  we  enjoy  in  the  great  cities 
of  North  America  and  Europe,  such  as  manufactured  ice  in  summer,  and  fruits  shipped  from 
the  tropics  for  the  Christmas  treat;  but  La  Paz  sends  messengers  in  the  morning  to  the  ice 
fields  of  Illimani  and  to  the  fruit  farms  of  her  valleys,  and  these  luxuries  are  brought  back 
in  time  for  dinner,  fresh  from  the  source  of  production. 

There  are  few  cities  of  South  America  which  look  out  on  a brighter  prospect  than  the 
City  of  Peace.  La  Paz  lies  in  the  heart  of  South  America,  and  when  modern  enterprise  shall 
develop  the  vast  resources  of  that  almost  unknown  continent,  then  all  railroads  crossing  it 
must  pass  through  Bolivia  and  close  to  the  door  of  its  Andean  metropolis.  A few  years  may 
be  expected  to  work  many  changes,  but  though  the  patron  saint  of  the  Titicaca  plateau 
may  lose  a very  picturesque  identity  in  the  evolution  of  a more  modern  type,  there  will 
always  be  a rare  and  peculiar  charm  about  this  eloquent  symbol  of  New  World  ideals, 
“ Nuestra  Sefiora  de  La  Paz.” 


INSTITUTE  OF  HYGIENE  AND  BACTERIOLOGY,  LA  PAZ, 


. ^ i 

CHURCH  AND  PLAZA  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO,  LA  PAZ 


CHAPTER  IX 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS— LITERATURE,  ORATORY,  ART,  AND  MUSIC 


'RADLED  in  revolution  and  nurtured  with  difficulty 
under  the  most  adverse  conditions,  the  intellectual 
life  of  Bolivia  has,  in  spite  of  all  obstacles,  developed 
in  both  strength  and  beauty.  In  literature,  oratory, 
art,  and  music  the  nation  has  given  proof  of 
surprising  activity.  Under  Spanish  rule,  hooks 
were  almost  an  unknown  luxury,  and  with  the 
exception  of  the  few  that  were  brought  into 
the  country  surreptitiously  from  time  to  time, 
prayer  books  and  the  lives  of  the  saints  consti- 
tuted all  the  literature  to  be  obtained.  One  of 
the  earliest  influences  in  bringing  about  the 
War  of  Independence  in  South  America  was 
the  secret  distribution  among  the  educated 
classes,  and  particularly  among  the  students  of 
the  University  of  Chuquisaca,  of  the  books 
written  by  Voltaire  and  the  Encyclopedists,  and 
brought  over  to  America  by  wealthy  people  of 
Chuquisaca  and  Potosi,  w'ho,  while  visiting  the 
Erench  capital, — then,  as  now,  the  Mecca  of  wealthy  South  Americans, — had  imbibed  the 
liberal  ideas  so  popular  in  France  in  the  latter  half  of  the  eighteenth  century,  ideas  which 
lighted  the  first  spark  in  the  mighty  social  conflagration  that  wrecked  the  aristocratic  institu- 
tions of  France,  and  illumined  the  political  skies  of  two  continents  in  the  reflection  of  its 
blaze.  But  the  majority  of  the  people  had  little  opportunity  and  less  training  for  the 
appreciation  of  literature,  and  all  efforts  toward  literary  expression  were  confined  to  religious 
writers.  Then,  for  half  a century  after  the  establishment  of  the  republic,  the  unsettled 
political  and  social  conditions  were  not  favorable  to  intellectual  development,  so  that  it  is 


C 


SENOR  DON  JOSE  ROSENDO  GUTIERREZ. 


BOLIVIA 


1^4 

only  within  a quarter  of  a century,  or  less,  that  Bolivian  literature,  art,  and  music  have 
received  uninterrupted  encouragement. 

But  at  every  period  of  the  nation’s  history  there  have  been  writers  of  talent,  orators 
who  have  thrilled  by  the  grace  and  fluency  of  their  magnetic  speech,  and  earnest  students 

of  art  and  music.  Poets  have  sung 
their  sweet  carols  amid  the  smoke  of 
the  battlefield  and  under  the  harsh  disci- 
pline of  poverty  and  neglect.  Indeed 
it  seems  that  adversity  is  often  the 
friend  of  poetic  inspiration,  and  that 
the  poet  was  right  who  said; 

“Great  souls  are  cradled  into  poetry  through  wrong, 
They  learn  in  suffering  what  they  teach  in  song.” 

If  art  and  letters  flourish  best  among 
the  nations  which  enjoy  peace  and  pros- 
perity, the  genius  that  inspires  them 
does  not  always  develop  under  the 
same  conditions  in  the  individual.  The 
muse  is  oftener  wooed  by  the  sorrowful 
than  the  gay,  and  he?"  kindest  smile  is 
not  for  the  palace  of  pleasure  and  mirth, 
but  for  the  soul  that  is  lonely.  The 
merriest  stanzas  are  written  with  heart- 
ache or  in  bitterness  of  spirit,  and  the 
world  is  charmed  by  epigrams  that  have 
blossomed  out  of  mental  and  moral  an- 
guish. Probably  the  time  of  peace  and 
plenty  is  more  propitious  for  poetry,  because  it  comes  after  a period  filled  with  events 
and  marked  by  conditions  that  make  poets  and  philosophers  out  of  all  available  mentality. 

Don  Ricardo  Bustamente,  who,  according  to  a distinguished  Spanish  critic,  was  the 
chief  of  Bolivian  poets,  wrote  the  best  of  his  inspired  verses  just  after  the  most  unsettled 
period  of  the  republic.  He  wrote  only  as  a pastime  or  a distraction  from  the  duties  of  a 
busy  statesman  and  diplomat,  for  he  filled  important  offices  of  the  government,  both 
at  home  and  abroad,  at  one  time  occupying  the  office  of  Cabinet  minister.  One  of  his  later 
poems,  regarded  by  some  as  his  masterpiece,  is  an  epic  entitled  Hispaiio-Amcrica  Liberidda, 
which  he  published  in  1883,  on  the  occasion  of  the  centenary  of  Bolivar,  in  homage  to  the 
memory  of  fhe  great  liberator.  Don  Mariano  Ricardo  Terrazas,  author  of  The  Siege  of  Paris 
and  hLi'sferies  of  the  Heart,  and  Manuel  Jose  C(">rtes,  contemporaries  of  Bustamente,  wrote 
better  prose  than  poetry,  but  the  unhappy  poet  Galindo,  the  poet  Tovar,  and  Luis  Vila  are 


SEf50R  DR.  NICOLAS  ARMENTIA,  BISHOP  OF  LA  PAZ. 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


remembered  among  the  noted  writers  of  verse.  The  same  period  gave  to  posterity  the  poet 
Don  Mariano  Ramallo,  who  like  Bustamente,  wrote  only  in  rare  intervals  of  leisure,  his 
duties  as  minister  of  the  Supreme  Court  occupying  most  of  his  time.  He  was  devoted  to 
literature  and  founded  a society,  La  Colmena,  to  which  the  aspirants  to  literary  fame  were 
proud  to  belong.  He  was  a journalist  of  considerable  talent,  the  editor  of  the  Offichil 
Gazette  during  the  administration  of  General  Ballivian,  and  later  editor-in-chief  of  La  Epoca, 
the  first  and  one  of  the  most  important  dailies  of  Bolivia.  Don  Felix  Reyes  Ortiz,  a con- 
temporary of  Bustamente  and  Ramallo,  was  not  only  a graceful  writer  of  poetry,  but  a brilliant 
orator,  a journalist,  and  a literary  critic  of  distinguished  ability,  and  one  of  the  ablest  jurists 
of  his  time.  His  versatility  was  remarkable.  Like  Benjamin  Vicuna  Mackenna,  of  Chile,  he 
seemed  to  possess  the  gift  of  prolific  genius,  and  his  writings  include  political  essays, 
poetical  compositions,  and  books  on  religion,  law,  and  education,  besides  editorial  articles  on 
an  infinite  variety  of  subjects  published  in  numerous  newspapers  of  which  he  was  the 
founder  and  editor.  He  also  published  several  statistical  works,  and  was  president  of 
the  CircLilo  Literario  of  La  Paz,  one  of 
the  many  societies  organized  by  the 
litterateurs  of  Bolivia.  Don  Serapio 
Reyes  Ortiz,  a brother  of  Don  Felix, 
is  also  to  be  counted  among  the  intel- 
lectual leaders  of  his  country,  though 
noted  more  particularly  as  a diplo- 
matist and  jurist  than  as  a writer. 

Few  Bolivians  have  contributed  in  a 
greater  degree  to  the  intellectual  ad- 
vancement of  their  country,  and  none 
has  been  more  constantly  identified 
with  its  history  in  the  past  thirty 
years,  during  which  he  has  held  office 
as  minister  of  foreign  affairs,  president 
of  the  council  of  state,  minister  pleni- 
potentiary to  Peru,  and  vice-president 
of  the  republic. 

Prominent  among  those  who 
have  rendered  important  services  to 
the  state  as  well  as  to  literature,  Don 
Jose  Rosendo  Gutierrez  is  remem- 
bered as  a lawyer  of  great  talent,  a 
diplomat  and  one  of  the  best  known 
Bolivian  writers.  Having  acquired  a large  fortune  in  the  practice  of  law,  Sehor  Gutierrez 
was  able,  in  his  later  years,  to  gratify  a long-cherished  desire  to  collect  a library  of  Bolivian 


1^6 


BOLIVIA 


literature,  and  at  his  death  he  left  as  a bequest  to  his  daughter,  Senora  Doha  Hortensia 
Gutierrez  de  Pinilla,  one  of  the  most  complete  collections  extant  of  books  on  Bolivia. 

The  work  to  which  he  devoted  the  last  years  of  his 
life  was  the  compilation  of  a Bolivian  bibliography, 
for  which  he  secured  a list  of  two  thousand  books 
and  pamphlets,  about  seventy-five  per  cent  being 
pamphlets,  nearly  all  of  them  written  by  Bolivians. 
Political  literature  predominates,  then  follow,  in  the 
order  of  production,  novels,  legends,  and  miscellany, 
there  being  comparatively  little  of  a historical  or 
scientific  character.  The  immense  service  rendered 
to  the  intellectual  interests  of  the  country  by  this 
collection  and  tabulation  of  the  national  literature 
can  hardly  be  estimated.  The  plan  of  the  work  is 
divided  into  three  parts,  the  first  of  which  embraces 
all  books  and  pamphlets  published  in  Bolivia,  or  on 
subjects  relating  to  Bolivia  from  the  year  182^  to  the 
present  day;  the  second  comprises  all  periodicals, 
with  notices  as  to  their  duration,  objects,  contribu- 
tions, etc.;  and  the  third  includes  all  South  Amer- 
ican publications  written  by  South  Americans  which 
require  to  be  consulted  in  a study  of  the  races,  customs,  and  institutions  of  the  country. 
During  a career  of  unusual  activity,  Sehor  Gutierrez  still  found  time  to  write  verse,  and  his 
Sivi^s  at  the  Foot  of  Ittimani  are  gems  of  sentiment.  He  was  senator  for  La  Paz  during  the 
last  years  of  his  life.  He  had  the  honor  to  receive  more  foreign  decorations  and  titles  than 
any  other  Bolivian,  being  Commendador  of  the  Order  of  the  Rose,  Chevalier  of  the  Order  of 
Leopold,  Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  and  a member  of  many  historic  and  geographic 
societies.  He  was  a self-made  man,  having  begun  life  amid  the  most  adverse  circumstances, 
and  achieving  by  his  own  efforts  the  highest  honors  paid  to  intellect  and  moral  character. 

Another  noted  bibliophilist,  Don  Vicente  Ballivian  y Rojas,  has  rendered  invaluable 
service  to  his  country  by  the  collection  and  publicatioii  of  manuscripts  written  on  the 
history  of  colonial  times  and  of  the  earlier  years  of  the  republic.  Owing  to  blindness, 
the  enthusiastic  scholar  was  obliged  to  give  up  his  work  after  finishing  the  first  volume 
of  the  Archivo  Botiviano,  which  was  published  in  Paris  in  1872.  Senor  Ballivian  y Rojas  was 
tiie  first  of  his  countrymen  to  undertake  this  kind  of  work,  in  which  he  has  been  succeeded 
by  many  others.  The  present  minister  of  colonization  and  agriculture,  Don  Manuel  Vicente 
Ballivian,  is,  like  liis  illustrious  father,  a bibliophilist.  He  has  collected  everything  written 
on  the  subject  of  his  country  that  is  of  value  for  reference  and  general  reading,  and  the 
Geographic  Society  of  La  Paz,  of  which  he  is  president,  has  a complete  library  of  information 
on  Bolivia,  whose  most  important  works  are  those  written  by  himself. 


SENOR  DON  EVARISTO  VALLE. 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


>S7 

Don  Gabriel  Rene  Moreno,  a native  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  who  has  been  for  many 
years  a resident  of  Santiago,  Chile,  where  he  is  librarian  of  the  Institute  Nacional,  and  Don 
Samuel  Velasco  Flor,  of  Potosi,  who  resided  in  Sucre  for  a long  time  before  his  death,  each 
in  his  own  way  collected  books  on  Bolivia  or  of  Bolivian  authorship,  and  accumulated  large 
and  useful  libraries.  Sehor  Velasco  Flor  was  not  only  a bibliophilist,  but  a linguist,  and  had 
a perfect  knowledge  of  the  Quichua  language,  a rare  accomplishment  even  in  Peru  and 
Bolivia.  Few  scholars  have  devoted  special  attention  to  the  primitive  languages  of  the 
country,  and  those  who  have  undertaken  this  task  deserve  great  credit.  The  illustrious 
Bishop  of  La  Paz,  Dr.  Nicolas  Armentia,  possesses  probably  a more  extensive  knowledge  of 
the  languages  and  dialects  of  the  various  Indian  tribes  in  Bolivia  than  any  of  his  fellow 
countrymen.  He  has  travelled  through  the  wilds  of  the  interior,  between  the  Beni  and  the 
Madre  de  Dios  rivers,  having  made  the  navigation  of  the  Beni  to  its  source,  “with  his 
bundle  of  clothes,  his  food,  and  his  sextant  strapped  on  his  shoulders,  his  breviary  in  one 
hand  and  compass  in  the  other,”  says  his  biographer,  Carlos  Bravo.  The  many  years  which 
he  devoted  to  missionary  work  in  the 
Acre  region,  and  to  establishing  mis- 
sions in  the  most  remote  districts,  also 
afforded  great  opportunity  for  study. 

As  the  fruit  of  his  journeys  he  has 
written  several  important  books,  of 
which  Lengiias  Americanas  is  one  of 
especial  value  to  students  of  philology 
and  ethnology.  The  Church  has  among 
her  most  illustrious  dignitaries  several 
writers  and  orators  of  extraordinary 
talent.  The  late  Archbishop  of  La  Plata, 

Dr.  Miguel  Taborga,  was  a classical 
scholar  and  a member  of  the  Spanish 
Royal  Academy:  he  was  a noted  polem- 
ist,  and  had  no  rival  in  the  press  or  in 
public  debate.  As  Archbishop  of  La 
Plata  and  senator  for  the  department  of 
Potosi,  he  was  a power  in  ecclesias- 
tical and  political  circles:  and  when  his 
learned  predecessor.  Archbishop  Puch, 
who,  like  himself,  was  a native  of  Sucre 
and  one  of  the  brilliant  orators  and 
writers  of  Bolivia,  was  called  to  Rome 
to  attend  the  Council  of  the  Vatican  in  1869,  the  then  Canon  Taborga  accompanied  him, 
receiving  many  honors  in  Italy,  Spain,  and  France,  where  his  intellectual  talent  had  become 


SENOR  DON  NATANIEL  AGUIRRE. 


1^8 


BOLIVIA 


known.  He  wrote  articles  for  the  chief  Catholic  reviews  of  Europe,  in  addition  to  editing 
El  Cni{ado,  the  principal  organ  of  the  Church  in  his  own  country. 

Potosi  has  the  honor  of  giving  to  the  nation  several  of  her  most  gifted  writers, 
orators,  and  politicians,  among  them  Don  Tomas  Frias,  the  Jefferson  of  Bolivian  democracy. 


OLD  PAINTING  IN  THE  MINT  OF  POTOSI,  PRESENTED  BY  CARLOS  IV.  OF  SPAIN. 


whose  memory  is  treasured  with  great  affection  by  his  countrymen.  Twice  he  was  called 
to  the  office  of  chief  executive,  though  he  never  coveted  the  honor ; he  was  noted  for  his 
integrity  and  industry,  as  well  as  for  his  intellectual  genius.  A contemporary  of  the  grand- 
marshal  of  Ayacucho,  having  been  born  in  1804,  he  lived  to  battle  for  the  best  principles  of 
republican  government  through  a long  lifetime,  closing  his  distinguished  career  in  exile,  after 
the  coup  d'etat  of  General  Daza,  which,  as  previously  stated,  deprived  Bolivia’s  “Grand  Old 
Man”  of  the  supreme  magistracy  in  1876,  his  death  following,  in  Florence,  Italy,  in  1884. 
As  soldier,  financier,  diplomatist,  minister  of  state,  and  president  of  the  republic,  his  arduous 
duties  afforded  him  little  leisure.  Yet  he  constantly  wrote  articles  and  pamphlets  on  political 
subjects,  his  style  being  clear  and  concise,  as  it  was  in  speaking.  He  was  an  orator  who 
convinced  as  much  by  the  force  of  his  logic  as  by  the  vigor  of  his  diction. 

It  is  often  said  of  the  Latin-American  that  he  is  a born  orator,  to  whom  the  demand  for 
a speech  is  as  easily  complied  with  as  a request  for  the  time  of  day;  given  the  inspiration 
of  an  attentive  audience,  whether  on  the  floor  of  Congress,  in  the  balcony  overlooking  the 
plaza,  or  at  the  much-favored  bauquctc,  his  native  gift  of  language  leads  him  away  into 
realms  of  oratorical  imagery,  far  beyond  the  “ken”  of  the  stuttering  Saxon,  through  which 
admiring  listeners  follow  until  a particularly  well-rounded  period  brings  a picturesque 
or  startling  climax  and  the  spell  is  broken  by  an  enthusiastic  Viva!  or  a more  dramatic 
demonstration.  The  middle  of  the  last  century  produced  in  Bolivia  some  of  the  most 
brilliant  diplomats  and  orators  in  the  history  of  Spanish  America.  Casimiro  Olaneta,  who  is 
regarded  as  having  been  among  the  best  public  speakers  of  his  day,  and  Evaristo  Valle, 
whose  eloquence  was  the  pride  of  his  friends  and  the  despair  of  his  enemies,  were  but  two 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


1^9 

of  a brilliant  galaxy  of  polemists  who  made  the  forum  largely  responsible  for  the  kaleido- 
scopic changes  which  affected  Bolivian  politics  during  the  first  twenty-five  or  thirty  years 
of  the  republic. 

Not  less  distinguished  as  an  orator,  and  regarded  by  many  of  his  countrymen  as  entitled 
to  the  highest  place  among  the  statesmen  and  diplomats  of  the  republic,  Don  Rafael  Bustillo 
belonged  to  the  group  of  leaders  in  politics  who  contributed  to  the  strength  and  stability  of 
the  government  during  the  most  trying  period  of  its  history.  First  appointed  minister  in  the 
cabinet  of  President  Belzu,  he  was  afterward  minister  in  the  cabinets  of  Presidents  Acha 
and  Adolfo  Ballivian,  his  place  in  Ballivian’s  cabinet  being  filled  after  his  death,  in  1873,  by 
Pantaleon  Dalence,  Bolivia’s  most  famous  finance  minister,  who  was  later  made  president 
of  the  Supreme  Court.  Rafael  Bustillo  was  not  only  an  orator  of  remarkable  talent,  but  a 
writer  also,  as  were  many  of  the  public  men  of  his  time.  Don  Lucas  Mendoza  de  La  Tapia, 
also  an  orator,  was,  like  Bustillo,  a prominent  participant  in  the  events  of  the  troublous 
period  preceding  the  government  of  President  Adolfo  Ballivian ; he  was  associated  with  the 
revolutionary  movement  which  finally  overthrew  President  Melgarejo,and  later  he  advocated 
in  Congress,  with  the  eloquent  oratory  of  which  he  was  master,  the  system  of  federal  gov- 
ernment for  Bolivia.  He  was  opposed  by  Evaristo  Valle,  and  the  clash  of  these  two  brilliant 
wits  made  the  sessions  particularly  interesting.  It  would  be  impossible  to  indicate,  among 
many  really  gifted  orators,  those  to  whom  the  nation  is  most  indebted  for  political  reforms. 
Eloquence  is  confined  to  no  party  or  clique,  and 
in  every  administration  there  have  been  leaders, 
both  in  the  government  and  in  the  opposition, 
who  have  held  their  audiences  in  thrall.  Julio 
Mendez,  Juan  Crisostomo  Carillo,  Jorge  Oblitas, 

Casimiro  Corral,  Mariano  Reyes  Cardona,  Antonio 
Quijarro,  and  others,  through  the  force  of  brilliant 
intellect  and  patriotic  sentiment,  have  rendered 
invaluable  services  to  their  country.  Julio  Mendez, 
not  only  as  an  orator,  but  as  a diplomat  of  superior 
talent  and  a skilful  journalist,  has  contributed  to 
bring  about  notable  political  reforms. 

Conspicuous  among  these  fiery  controver- 
sialists, but  rather  because  of  the  contrast  which 
marked  his  style  in  debate,  Don  Mariano  Baptista 
has  been  compared  to  Castelar  as  an  orator,  bril- 
liant, calm,  and  persuasive.  Beginning  his  career 
in  the  early  fifties,  he  has  lived  to  see  the  devel- 
opment of  a sound  political  system  out  of  the 
warring  elements,  which  at  one  time  threatened  the  stability  of  the  republic.  A statesman 
and  diplomat,  he  has  served  his  country  as  a member  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  as 


SENOR  DR.  JOSE  MARIA  SANTIVANEZ. 


i6o 


BOLIVIA 


GENERAL  DON  ELIODORO  CAMACHO. 


senator,  minister  plenipotentiary,  member  of  the  Cabinet,  vice-president  and  president  of  the 
republic.  A staunch  conservative  in  politics,  he  became  the  leader  of  his  party  and  has  never 

wavered  from  the  principles  adopted  at  the  outset 
of  his  career,  when,  as  the  political  supporter  and 
faithful  friend  of  the  dictator  Linares,  he  accompanied 
his  beloved  chief  into  exile  and  closed  his  eyes  in 
the  last  sleep.  One  of  the  most  distinguished  figures 
among  the  intellectual  leaders  of  his  country,  he 
possesses  rare  gifts  of  mind  and  heart,  and  is  noted 
for  decision  of  character  and  loyalty  to  his  principles. 
He  has  visited  most  of  the  countries  of  the  Old  and 
New  World,  where  he  had  an  opportunity  of  study- 
ing society  and  politics  under  all  forms. 

Don  Nataniel  Aguirre  was  one  of  the  leading 
statesmen  and  orators  of  his  day,  and  quite  the 
greatest  historical  novelist  of  Bolivia.  He  was  born 
in  Cochabamba  in  1843,  and,  like  his  father,  Miguel 
Maria  de  Aguirre,  who  was  a famous  political  leader, 
he  began  his  public  career  at  an  early  age.  While 
still  in  his  teens  he  took  his  degree  in  the  university 
and  began  the  practice  of  law.  Ten  years  later  he 
was  elected  a deputy  to  the  national  Congress,  where  he  became  a central  figure  in  the 
debates,  his  advanced  ideas,  enthusiasm,  and  eloquence  distinguishing  him  as  a man  of 
mark.  He  belonged  to  the  federalist  party  of  which  La  Tapia  was  the  chief,  and  which  found 
its  strongest  supporters  in  Cochabamba  and  La  Paz.  When  the  War  of  the  Pacific  began 
he  was  called  from  the  prefecture  of  Cochabamba  to  the  ministry  of  war,  and  he  directed 
the  organization  of  the  army  sent  to  repel  the  Chilean  invasion.  He  was  president  of  the 
national  convention  of  1880,  which  proclaimed  the  national  constitution  as  it  now  stands. 
After  a career  of  extraordinary  brilliancy,  he  died  at  the  early  age  of  forty-five,  while  on  his 
way  to  Brazil  to  represent  his  government  at  the  imperial  court  of  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  II. 
As  a writer,  and  particularly  as  a novelist,  Nataniel  Aguirre  ranks  among  the  best,  not  only 
in  Bolivia,  but  throughout  South  America,  and  the  celebrated  Argentine  statesman  and  critic, 
Bartolome  Mitre  wrote  of  his  novel  Juan  dc  la  Rosa,  a romance  of  the  Independence,  that  it 
is  “the  most  beautiful  production  of  talent  and  good  taste  in  romance  that  South  America 
can  claim.”  It  is  remarkable  that  no  copy  of  this  novel  can  be  found  in  the  book  stores  of 
Bolivia,  so  pronounced  is  the  preference  here  as  in  all  South  American  countries  for  French 
literature  before  even  the  best  Spanish  productions.  The  “prophet  without  honor  in  his 
own  country”  seems  a universal  example  of  at  least  one  shortcoming  of  humanity.  Nataniel 
Aguirre  is  the  author  of  other  charming  books,  chiefly  histories  and  historical  novels,  all  of 
which  are  out  of  print,  only  a few  copies  remaining  in  the  possession  of  friends  and  literary 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


i6i 


admirers.  One  feels  tempted  to  make  a severe  criticism  of  this  failure  to  popularize  the 
works  of  native  authors:  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  best  North  American  writers 
received  their  first  recognition  in  England,  and  one  of  the  most  popular  of  English  novels, 
Trilbv,  won  fame  for  the  author  in  America  before  it  was  counted  among  the  successes  in 
London  book  shops.  Another  temptation  to  criticism  is  excited  by  the  fact  that  although 
there  are  many  able  and  entertaining  writers  on  historical  subjects,  no  adequate  history  of 
Bolivia  has  yet  been  written.  In  some  cases  the  modesty  of  the  author  has  forbidden  him 
to  claim  even  as  much  honor  for  his  work  as  it  deserves;  and  excellent  histories  of  certain 
periods  have  been  published  as  Studies,  Conipendiums,  Essays,  and  merely  Notes.  Apparently, 
however,  few  have  been  able  to  write  without  strong  prejudices.  Nearly  all  the  principal 
historical  works  give  evidence  of  marked  talent  for  description.  J.  M.  Cortes,  the  author 
of  an  Essay  on  the  History  of  Botivia,  and  L.  M.  Guzman,  author  of  an  Etementary  History 
of  Botivia,  are  among  the  most  important  writers  on  general  events.  Jose  Maria  Camacho 
and  Jose  Macedonio  Urquidi  have  written  school  histories  of  considerable  value.  The 
government  is  trying  to  stimulate  ambition  in  this  direction  by  offering  an  important  premium 
for  the  best  history  of  Bolivia.  Several  historical  writers  have  devoted  their  attention  to 
some  particular  period  and  have  produced  biographical  and  political  essays  of  real  merit. 

Dr.  Jose  Maria  Santivanez,  in  common  with  most  of  the  noted  writers  of  his  country, 
was  a politician  and  a diplomat,  as  well  as  a historian  of  distinction.  Born  in  181^,  he 
belonged  to  the  “turbulent  period”  of  Bolivian  politics.  He  was  a deputy  to  Congress 
during  the  administration  of  General  Jose  Ballivian  and,  later,  during  that  of  President 
Cordova.  President  Linares  appointed  him  Prefect  of  Sucre  and,  later.  Prefect  of  La  Paz. 
Recognizing  his  gifts  as  a diplomatist.  President  Linares  soon  afterward  sent  him  as  charge 
d’affaires  to  Chile,  where  he  remained  only  until  the  downfall  of  Linares  and  the  election  of 
General  Acha  to  the  presidency.  He  opposed  the  tyrannical  government  of  Melgarejo,  and, 
being  defeated,  left  the  country,  and  remained  away  two  years.  He  was  a candidate  for 
the  presidency  at  the  close  of  Tomas  Frias’s  term,  and  would  have  been  elected  but  for  the 
revolution  which  gave  its  leader.  General  Daza,  the  opportunity  to  seize  the  executive 
power.  In  the  celebrated  convention  of  1880  he  was  a leading  participant,  as  the  repre- 
sentative from  Cochabamba.  His  biographies  of  General  Jose  Ballivian  and  Don  Adolfo 
Ballivian  are  among  the  most  important  historical  works  of  his  time.  He  wrote  also  on 
boundary  questions,  public  instruction,  finance,  and  other  subjects.  He  died  in  Cochabamba 
in  1898,  aged  eighty-three  years. 

Belisario  Salinas,  a contemporary  of  Dr.  Santivanez,  and  a candidate  at  the  same  time 
for  the  presidency,  is  another  brilliant  statesman  who  has  contributed  to  the  national  litera- 
ture. Although  defeated  by  Daza,  he  was  vice-president,  and  acting  president  for  a time, 
during  General  Campero’s  administration.  The  government  of  General  Daza  allowed  little 
freedom  of  opinion  to  writers,  and  two  authors,  Jenaro  Sanjines  and  Nicolas  Acosta,  were 
imprisoned  for  ardently  defending  municipal  rights.  Don  Jenaro  Sanjines,  a statesman 
of  distinction,  like  Jose  Maria  Santivanez,  has  also  written  important  biographies. 


BOLIVIA 


His  most  valuable  works  are  Notes  on  the  Histoty  of  Botivla  during  the  Administration  of 
Generat  Agiistin  Morates  and  Notes  on  the  History  of  Botivia  during  the  Administrations 
of  Don  Adotfo  Battivian  and  Don  Tomas  Frias.  The  Sanjines  family,  of  which  there  are 
branches  in  Sucre,  Cochabamba,  and  La  Paz,  is  one  of  the  most  gifted  in  Bolivia.  Ignacio 
de  Sanjines  wrote  the  words  of  the  national  hymn  during  the  administration  of  General 
Santa  Cruz;  General  Ildefonso  Sanjines  was  minister  of  war  under  President  Morales, 
and  a leading  politician;  Saturnino  Sanjines,  who  died  in  Sucre  in  1893,  was  president 

of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
republic,  and  a learned  writer  on 
jurisprudence:  Bernardo  Sanjines 
has  written  important  works  on 
industrial  development ; Victor 
Sanjines,  postmaster-general,  and 
Abigail  Sanjines,  eldest  son  of  the 
historian,  the  Bolivian  consul- 
general  in  New  York  since  May, 
1906,  are  among  the  leading  poli- 
ticians and  journalists.  The  gov- 
ernment of  the  dictator  Linares 
is  the  subject  of  an  interesting 
biography  by  Antonio  Quijarro, 
a Potosino.  Quijarro  belonged 
to  the  period  of  the  great  Olaheta, 
with  whom  he  was  associated 
in  the  publication  of  Ft  Siglo,  in 
company  with  the  poets  Daniel 
Calvo  and  Ricardo  Mujia,  to 
whom  Bolivia  owes  many  in- 
spired verses:  Ricardo  Mujia  is 
held  by  some  critics  as  the  best 
Bolivian  poet. 

The  city  of  Potosi  has  been 

THE  BEHEADING  OF  SAINT  PAUL.  AN  OLD  PAINTING  IN  THE  Ceiltl'e  Of  nUmerOUS  imOOr- 

CATHEDRAL  OF  SUCRE.  ^ 

tant  political  events,  from  the 
time  when  the  Vascongados  and  the  Vicunas  fought  their  battles  there  until  the  present  day. 
A history  of  the  city  has  been  written  in  charming  style  by  J.  L.  Jaimes,  who,  as  “ Brocha 
Gorda,”  contributes  to  the  best  literary  periodicals  of  South  America.  His  work  on  Potosi 
contains  historical  anecdotes,  traditions,  and  legends  of  the  Imperial  City,  and  is  a valuable 
acquisition  to  the  bibliography  of  the  country.  Potosi  furnishes  a fertile  field  for  romance 
and  legend,  and  many  important  writings  of  this  character  have  been  collected  and  published 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


163 

by  Modesto  Omiste,  of  Potosi,  himself  a clever  author.  With  the  title  of  Cronicas  Potosiiias, 
he  has  put  into  four  volumes  the  best  stories  of  the  Villa  Imperial,  written  by  South 
Americans.  Ricardo  Palma,  the  Peruvian  writer,  the  most  celebrated  of  Latin-Americans 
in  this  class  of  literature,  contributes  more  than  a dozen  traditions.  Vicente  G.  Quesada, 
Nataniel  Aguirre,  Benjamin  and  Fidel  Rivas,  Benjamin  Blanco,  Manuel  J.  Cortes,  J.  M. 
Camacho,  Julio  Cesar  Valdez,  “Brocha  Gorda,”  Luis  Manzano,  Jose  David  Berrios,  Pedro 
Calderon,  Emilio  Fernandez,  Angel  Diez  de  Medina,  have  written  gems  for  the  collection. 
Jose  Manuel  Aponte,  in  addition  to  writing  several  of  the  Potosi  legends,  has  devoted  his 
talent  to  historical  description,  and  published  recently  an  interesting  account  of  the  Acre 
revolution.  Juan  W.  Chacon,  a Potosino  who  knows  his  Cerro  as  the  Londoner  knows  his 
Strand,  adds  greatly  to  the  value  of  the  Cronicas 
Potos/iias,  by  numerous  contributions,  sentimental 
and  satirical,  among  them  a clever  commentary  on 
feminine  vanity  and  its  punishment  in  the  tradi- 
tion Lo  que  pticde  iiiia  niiijcr — “What  a woman 
can  do.”  La  Paz,  as  well  as  Potosi,  has  been  the 
subject  of  historical  and  romantic  essays  and 
sketches,  the  best  of  these  being  the  Moiiografia 
de  la  Ciudad  de  La  Pa{,  by  Luis  Crespo,  who 
gives  an  entertaining  history  of  the  chief  events 
which  have  occurred  in  the  city  from  the  con- 
quest to  the  present  day.  Nicolas  Acosta’s  Guide 
to  La  Pa{  is  a useful  book  of  reference.  Eufronio 
Viscarra  is  the  author  of  an  interesting  history  of 
Cochabamba. 

The  history  of  Sucre  has  been  entertainingly 
and  carefully  written  by  Dr.  Valentin  Abecia,  the 
second  vice-president  of  the  republic,  with  the  title 
of  Hisioria  de  Chuquisaca,  under  which  it  first 
appeared  in  the  bulletin  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Sucre,  preparatory  to  publication  in 
book  form.  It  is  a complete  and  authentic  history  of  the  capital  of  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas, 
and  as  such  is  probably  tlie  most  important  historical  work  published  on  Bolivia  in  recent 
years.  Dr.  Abecia  is  a leader  in  the  intellectual  progress  of  his  country,  and  has  contributed 
to  its  advancement  in  science  as  well  as  in  literature  and  politics.  He  is  a medical  authority 
of  the  first  rank  and  has  written  important  treatises  on  this  subject;  other  noted  writers 
on  medical  science  are  Drs.  Julio  La  Faye,  Andres  Munoz,  Isaac  Aranibar,  Cuellar,  Quiroga, 
and  Julio  Rodriguez.  The  study  of  medical  science  has  been  greatly  stimulated  within 
recent  years,  though  it  shows  less  progress  than  might  be  expected.  Dr.  Rodriguez,  who 
is  now  senator  for  the  department  of  Cochabamba,  has  been  conspicuous  not  only  in 
medical  but  political  circles  for  the  past  thirty  years  or  more.  He  was  recently  named 


SENOR  DON  JUAN  CARILl.O. 


164 


BOLIVIA 


minister  plenipotentiary  to  Argentina,  but  was  obliged  to  return  and  resign  his  post  on 
account  of  illness.  He  was  educated  in  the  Medical  College  of  Sucre,  and  has  been  professor 
of  pathology  and  a member  of  the  University  Council  of  Cochabamba  for  many  years. 

A study  of  the  biographies  of  Bolivia’s  leading  men  in  all  branches  of  learning  reveals 
the  fact  that  they  have  at  some  period  of  their  careers  filled  government  positions.  Politics 
may  be  regarded  as  the  great  highway  of  intellectual  progress,  into  which  have  thronged 
poets,  orators,  journalists,  historians,  scientists,  and  lawyers,  in  search  of  fame  and  fortune. 
Patriotism  has  been  the  keynote  of  poetry,  oratory,  and  journalism;  the  historian  has  written 
for  his  party  rather  than  for  posterity ; science  has  made  slow  progress  chiefly  because  it  is 
not  easily  associated  with  party  politics,  except  in  an  impersonal  way;  though  it  is  true 
that  some  of  the  best  literature  of  Bolivia  is  that  which  relates  to  the  science  of  govern- 
ment. Law,  philosophy,  and  political  economy  have  been  treated  by  the  best  scholars 
of  Bolivia,  and  of  these  a few  may  be  named  who  rank  as  high  in  their  profession  as 
the  best  of  their  South  American  colleagues.  The  late  Don  Samuel  Oropeza,  by  whose 
recent  death  in  Sucre  the  nation  lost  one  of  her  greatest  jurists  and  most  devoted  patriots, 
was  the  author  of  important  works,  of  which  Studies  of  Modern  Science  and  Political 
Economy  are  the  best  known.  He  wrote  also  on  Bolivian  Finances  and  a multitude  of  other 
subjects,  and  possessed  that  rare  gift  of  versatility  which  always  affords  a wide  range  for  the 
expression  of  intellectual  genius.  Federico  Diez  de  Medina  has  written  a work.  International 
Law,  which  the  best  European  critics  commend;  and  Agustin  Aspiazu  is  the  author  of 
Dogmas  of  International  Law,  a production  of  considerable  importance,  published  in  New 
York  in  1872.  Jose  S.  Quinteros,  the  present  minister  of  war,  is  one  of  the  best  writers 
on  jurisprudence,  and  his  Administrative  Law  is  regarded  as  a work  of  great  merit.  Jose 
Manuel  Gutierrez,  author  and  journalist,  wrote  Pnhlic  Law.  Macario  Pinilla,  one  of  the 
foremost  leaders  of  the  government,  and  a lawyer  of  distinguished  talents,  who  has  the 
honor  to  be  a member  of  the  Royal  Academy  of  Jurisprudence,  of  Madrid,  is  the  author  of 
several  works  on  jurisprudence.  Angel  Moscoso  is  the  author  of  a dictionary  of  jurispru- 
dence ; and  Bautista  Saavedra  has  published,  among  other  scientific  books,  an  interesting 
study  of  criminology.  Melchor  Urquidi  writes  on  penal  law,  and  Daniel  Sanchez  Busta- 
mente,  on  Principles  of  Law.  Antonio  Loaiza,  Rafael  Canedo,  Luis  Arce,  and  others  have 
contributed  meritorious  works  on  jurisprudence.  Nearly  all  of  the  best  works  on  scientifc 
subjects  have  been  written  within  the  past  twenty  years,  and  the  younger  lawyers  and 
politicians  appear  ambitious  to  raise  the  standard  of  national  literature  pertaining  to  law. 

The  vital  question  of  boundaries,  which  has  been  an  insistent  and  sometimes  absorbing 
one  in  the  history  of  Bolivia,  has  been  the  means  of  calling  out  especial  talent,  not  only 
among  the  country’s  diplomatic  representatives,  but  among  the  writers  as  well.  The 
“literature  of  limits’’  is  almost  a complete  library  in  itself,  touching  upon  law,  history, 
geography,  science,  and  a multitude  of  kindred  subjects.  It  serves  as  a valuable  reference 
library  for  posterity.  Some  of  the  most  noted  explorers  have  been  the  leading  states- 
men of  the  republic.  Ex-President  General  Jose  Manuel  Pando  has  written  an  extremely 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


i6^ 

entertaining  and  instructive  description  of  his  voyage  to  the  rubber  region,  and  is  the  author 
of  many  works  of  interest  on  the  geography  of  the  Territorio  de  Colonias,  of  which  he  is  the 
present  chief  authority.  Manuel  Vicente  Ballivian,  the  minister  of  immigration  and  agriculture, 
has  written  extensive  reports  of  his  journey  to  the  Acre  region.  Don  Felix  Avelino  Aramayo, 
Bolivia’s  most  noted  “captain  of  industry,”  and  one  of  the  leading  diplomats,  is  the  author 
of  several  works  on  Bolivian  industries.  For  six  years  Sehor  Aramayo  represented  his 
country  at  the  Court  of  Saint  James,  from  1897  to  1903,  rendering  important  services  to 
his  government  during  that  period.  Previously  he  had  been  identified  with  politics  as 
deputy  to  Congress;  and  in  the  famous  Congress  of  1880,  which  was  convened  by  Presi- 
dent Campero  to  reconstitute  the  Bolivian  government  in  the  face  of  the  war  with  Chile,  he 
took  an  active  part  in  framing  the  new  constitu- 
tion. While  minister  in  London,  Senor  Aramayo 
had  on  his  staff  as  secretaries  and  attaches  the 
brilliant  and  promising  young  diplomats,  Ignacio 
Gutierrez  Ponce,  Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of  Honor; 

Adolfo  Ballivian,  the  son  of  the  late  president; 

Pedro  Suarez,  a plucky  explorer  of  the  Amazon 
tributaries;  and  Ramon  Pando,  the  son  of  ex- 
President  Pando.  There  is  probably  no  writer 
on  industrial  conditions  in  Bolivia  who  has  con- 
tributed valuable  and  comprehensive  information 
in  a more  reacJable  style. 

Federico  Blanco  has  written  a charming 
book,  which  gives  the  biographies  of  the  vari- 
ous naturalists  and  other  explorers  who  have 
visited  the  Amazon  region.  The  Blanco  family 
have  been  identifed  with  Bolivian  literature, 
geography,  and  history  from  the  time  of  the 
Independence,  contributing  greatly  to  intellectual 
advancement.  Federico,  Pedro,  Benjamin,  and  Clebmedes  will  be  held  in  honored  remem- 
brance for  their  superior  gifts.  Among  the  native  explorers  who  have  written  on  boundary 
questions,  Francisco  Iraizbs  is  a recognized  authority,  as  well  as  Daniel  Campos,  who  in 
188^  led  an  expedition  to  the  Gran  Chaco  and  founded  colonies  on  tlie  banks  of  the  Para- 
guay River.  Ernesto  O.  Ruck,  the  author  of  a general  guide  to  Bolivia,  has  accumulated 
and  compiled  valuable  material  for  general  reference.  Pedro  Kramer,  a clever  author  and 
scientist  who  lost  his  life  while  exploring  the  Amazon  region,  left  the  first  volume  of  a work 
on  liidiistiy  in  Bolivia,  and  the  first  volume  of  a history  of  Bolivia,  which  it  is  lamented  that 
he  did  not  live  to  complete.  Octavio  Moscoso  is  the  author  of  a geography  of  Bolivia,  and 
J.  A.  Palacios  has  given  to  posterity  a most  entertaining  description  of  explorations  made 
sixty  years  ago  in  the  territory  of  the  Beni,  Mamore,  and  Madeira  Rivers.  The  latest  edition 


SENOR  DON  AVELINO  ARAMAYO. 


BOLIVIA 


1 66 

of  h\s  works  contains  also  those  of  his  grandson,  Abel  Iturralde,  with  a scientific  study  of 
the  waterways  of  northwest  Bolivia.  Santiago  Vaca-Guzman,  the  author  of  many  books  on 


PAINTING  PRESENTED  BY  CARLOS  IV.  OF  SPAIN  TO  THE  MINT  OF  POTOSf. 


a variety  of  subjects,  writes  also  of  the  CIuu'o  Oriental.  Don  Jose  Aguirre  Acha,  who  accom- 
panied General  Pando  on  his  expedition  to  the  Acre,  is  the  author  of  a description  of  the 
journey  in  a book  entitled  From  the  Andes  to  the  Amazon.  He  is  not  only  a rising  young 
politician,  being  ofieial  mayor  in  the  ministerio  of  government  and  promotion,  and  a prose 
writer  of  distinguished  talent,  but  is  also  a poet  of  great  promise,  inheriting  the  versatile 
genius  of  his  father,  the  immortal  Nataniel  Aguirre.  Nearly  all  Bolivian  writers  have  con- 
tributed verse  to  the  national  literature,  and  have  also  been  identified  with  political  life. 
That  politics  and  letters  go  nearly  always  hand  in  hand  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  in  a country 
of  limited  population,  with  only  a small  leisure  class  to  encourage  the  development  of  purely 
intellectual  talent.  The  pursuit  of  literature,  even  in  the  more  remunerative  highways,  is  a 
precarious  career,  unless  supported  by  ample  fortune  or  an  assured  income  from  some  other 
source.  This  is  true  not  only  of  Bolivia,  but,  more  or  less,  of  all  countries. 

Journalism  has  been,  and  still  is,  a popular  stepping-stone  to  young  politicians,  and  the 
most  brilliant  statesmen  and  diplomats  of  Bolivia  have,  with  few  exceptions,  been  connected 
with  newspaper  work  at  some  period  of  their  career.  The  Bolivian  newspaper  is  still  a 
political  organ  rather  than  a purveyor  of  news,  in  this  respect  resembling  the  majority  of 
South  American  journals.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  free  from  the  abhorrent  features  of  a press 
over  zealous  to  give  to  the  public  the  minute  details  of  every  occurrence  in  society,  however 
loathsome  they  may  be.  On  the  whole,  the  Bolivian  newspaper  with  its  brief  paragraphs 
of  cable  news,  its  more  or  less  limited  account  of  the  day’s  events  at  home,  and  its  predomi- 
nating political  features,  with,  perhaps,  a poem  or  two  to  give  it  literary  flavor,  is  to  be 
preferred  by  the  normal  mind  to  the  sensational  columns,  glaring  headlines,  inartistic 
and  altogether  absurd  illustrations,  and  bulky  advertising  pages  of  the  extreme  type  of 
metropolitan  dailies  in  North  America. 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


167 


Although  the  printing  press  was  prohibited  in  the  colonies  during  Spanish  rule,  except 
for  the  use  of  the  Church  in  promoting  Christian  propaganda,  the  patriots  succeeded  in 
establishing  a periodical  during  the  War  of  the  Independence,  El  Telegrafo  being  founded 
in  1822.  The  first  daily  paper  published  in  the  republic  was  La  Epoca,  of  La  Paz,  which 
was  founded  soon  after  the  war,  and  counted  among  its  editors  at  one  time  the  brilliant 
Argentine  writer  Bartolome  Mitre.  During  the  administration  of  General  Jose  Ballivian  it 
was  edited  by  A.  Quintela,  Domingo  Oro,  and  Mitre.  Later,  the  famous  journalist  and 
diplomat  Felix  Reyes  Ortiz  took  the  editorial  management.  This  gifted  writer  was  the 
founder  and  editor  of  at  least  half  a dozen  newspapers,  among  others,  El  Constitucioiial, 
La  Uo^  de  Bolivia,  El  Consejcro  del  Pueblo,  and  a humorous  journal,  El  Padre  Coho. 
He  edited  La  Refoiina,  of  La  Paz,  and  was  president  of  the  Circulo  Literario,  a society 
founded  in  La  Paz  for  the  promotion  of  literature.  The  leading  writers  of  Sucre  had  also 
their  literary  society,  called  La  Colmena,  meaning  “the  beehive,”  to  which  the  poets  and 
journalists  of  the  day  belonged.  It  was  organized  in  the  house  of  the  poet  Mariano  Ramallo, 
and  counted  among  its  members  the  most  prominent  men  of  the  capital.  The  literary  organ 
of  the  society  was  named  La  Colmena  de  Sucre,  in  which  the  best  prose  and  poetry  was 
published  and  reviewed.  Among  the  earliest  periodicals  of  Bolivia  was  La  Estrella,  of  Sucre, 
founded  during  the  f rst  years  of  the  republic,  and  edited  for  a long  time  by  Don  Domingo 
Delgadillo,  who  began  his  public  career  during  the  administration  of  President  Sucre,  and 
was  a member  of  President  Jose  Ballivian’s  Cabinet,  in  company  with  Don  Tomas  Frias, 
Don  Basilio  Cuellar,  General  Perez  de  Urdininea,  all  prominent  in  the  politics  of  that  time. 
El  Siglo  was  the  name  of  another  periodical  of  Sucre,  founded  in  the  early  fifties,  and  in  1863 
La  Aurora  Literaria  was  added  to  the  list  of  Sucre’s  literary  journals.  Don  Jorge  Delgadillo 
founded  the  last-named  journal,  and  associated  with  him  in  its  publication  were  Don  Beli- 
sario  Loza  Santa  Cruz,  afterward  editor  of  La  Estrella,  Don  Mariano  Ramallo,  the  poet,  and 
Don  Luis  Pablo  Rosquellas,  one  of  the  brilliant  writers,  who  was  also  a statesman  of  dis- 
tinction as  minister  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  republic.  Jorge  Delgadillo  was  the  founder 
of  La  Jiivciitud,  La  Abej'a,  and  La  Eloresta.  In  1877  the  Boletiu  Repiiblicano  was  founded  by 
Don  Daniel  Calvo  to  support  the  government  of  the  dictator  Linares.  Daniel  Calvo  has  been 
called  the  Lamartine  of  his  country.  He  was  not  only  a poet  and  journalist,  but  a clever 
statesman,  having  been  a minister  in  the  Cabinet  of  President  Adolfo  Ballivian  and  his  suc- 
cessor, Tomas  Frias,  a deputy  to  several  Congresses,  a leader  iii  the  national  convention  of 
1880.  He  was  the  author  of  a beautiful  legend  in  verse,  Aua  Dorset,  and  of  many  graceful 
sonnets.  Another  poet.  Dr.  Luis  Zalles,  president  of  the  Superior  Court  of  La  Paz,  was  the 
founder  of  several  periodicals,  and  is  greatly  esteemed  as  a writer  of  both  prose  and  verse. 
La  Revista  and  La  Ra{ou,  of  Cochabamba,  were  among  the  best  periodicals  of  the  day, 
twenty  years  ago.  Nataniel  Aguirre  and  other  leading  writers  contributed  to  their  columns. 
General  Camacho  founded  El  Ca^ador  in  the  same  city.  El  Heraldo,  of  Cochabamba, 
founded  in  1877  by  Don  Juan  Francisco  Velarde,  is  still  published  by  him,  and  has  a general 
circulation  in  the  department.  The  founder  and  editor  is  one  of  the  best-known  journalists 


i68 


BOLIVIA 


of  Bolivia.  A native  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  he  has  occupied  important  posts  in  the 
service  of  his  country  at  home  and  abroad.  He  was  minister  of  foreign  affairs  in  Presi- 
dent Pacheco’s  Cabinet,  and  minister  to  Brazil 
during  President  Arce’s  government.  He  has 
been  to  the  United  States  several  times  in  a 
diplomatic  capacity.  El  Tiempo,  of  Potosi, 
founded  by  Modesto  Omiste  some  years  ago, 
is  still  in  existence,  though  most  of  the  news- 
papers and  periodicals  named  in  the  preceding 
list  have  given  place  to  others.  El  Cm  {ado, 
the  Church  paper,  which  was  founded  many 
years  ago  by  Dr.  Miguel  Taborga,  and  edited  by 
him  until  his  death,  is  among  the  few  which 
have  survived  and  increased  in  circulation  and 
prestige. 

The  history  of  Bolivian  literature  was 
written  some  years  ago  by  Santiago  Vaca-. 
Guzman,  one  of  Bolivia’s  best  poets  and 
novelists:  but  like  so  many  other  literary 
productions  of  Bolivian  authors,  the  book  is 
out  of  print,  and  not  a copy  is  to  be  had, 
unless,  by  rare  chance,  some  friend  of  the  author  may  have  preserved  one.  The  greatest 
difficulty  is  experienced  in  Bolivia  in  securing  copies  of  even  the  best  books,  as  only  very 
limited  editions  have  been  printed,  and  these  seem  to  have  vanished  in  an  amazing  manner; 
it  is  true  that  books  are  published  at  the  author’s  expense,  and  few  authors  care  to  assume 
the  responsibility  of  disposing  of  a large  stock. 

New  literary  societies  have  succeeded  La  Colmena,  and  its  journal  no  longer  exists. 
Sucre  now  has  a Centro  Literario  and  an  excellent  literary  review,  Vida  Niiova,  printed  in 
colors  and  handsomely  illustrated,  which  is  one  of  the  most  creditable  productions  of 
periodical  literature  in  South  America.  It  is  edited  by  a group  of  young  poets  who  have 
contributed  gems  of  prose  and  verse  to  the  national  literature.  Adolfo  Guardia  Berdecio, 
Armando  D.  Alvarez,  Claudio  Peharanda,  and  Jose  A.  de  Jauregui  are  the  editors,  and 
among  the  contributors  are  writers  of  note  from  all  parts  of  the  republic.  Chief  of  these 
is  the  poet  Tomas  O’Connor  d’Aiiach,  senator  from  Tarija,  who  himself  founded  and  edited 
at  least  two  periodicals;  one  of  them,  La  Eslrclla  dc  Tarija,  is  still  in  existence,  though 
the  other,  El  ludcpeudicntc,  of  Sucre,  suspended  publication  some  years  ago.  He  has 
been  a contributor  to  the  literature  of  his  country  for  thirty  years  or  more,  during  which 
lie  has  written  history,  biography,  and  poetry  with  prolific  pen.  His  style  is  graceful, 
though  his  poetic  composition  is  delicate  rather  than  vigorous,  and  is  suggestive,  in  its 
sadness,  of  “the  throne  where  sorrow  sits.” 


SENOR  DR.  JULIO  RODRIGUEZ. 


INTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


169 


Vida  Niieva  is  distinctly  a modern  periodical,  and  the  outlook  is  bright  for  its  permanent 
success.  Prominent  among  the  collaborators  is  Mariano  Enrique  Calvo,  regarded  by  many 
as  the  best  prose  writer  of  Bolivia.  Julio  Zamora,  deputy  from  Chuquisaca  to  the  national 
Congress,  who  is  also  one  of  the  principal  collaborators,  has  written  articles  for  the  best 
periodicals  during  the  past  ten  years,  and,  though  a young  man,  has  made  his  influence  felt 
in  literary  circles  as  well  as  in  politics.  El  Eco  Modenio,  La  Revista  de  Bolivia,  La  Nacioii, 
and  other  journals  have  published  essays  and  poems  from  his  pen.  Angel  Diez  de  Medina, 
Andres  Torrico,  Jorge  Mendieta,  Benjamin  Guzman,  C.  Guillermo  Loaiza,  Rene  Calvo  Arana, 
Jose  Raha,  Alfredo  Jauregui  Rosquellas,  Juan  Manuel  Sainz,  and  the  editors  of  Uida  Niieva, 
previously  mentioned,  are  among  the  nation’s  writers  of  prose  and  poetry.  There  are  more 
th;^h  fifty  writers  of  verse  in  Bolivia,  of  whose  genius  a Spanish  critic  says:  “Generally,  the 
Bolivian  muse  is  incorrect;  but  she  has  inspiration  and  brilliancy,  and  is  sincerely  impassioned.” 
The  most  recent  novel  of  note  written  by  a Bolivian  author  is  Uida  CrioUa,  by  Alcides  Arguedas. 

The  oldest  newspaper  now  published  in  La  Paz  is  El  Couicrcio,  though  there  are,  in  all, 
twenty-fve  periodicals  issued  regularly  in  that  city,  the  principal  dailies  being  El  Comercio, 
El  Comercio  de  Bolivia,  El  Diario,  and  El  Eslado.  As  La  Paz  is  the  centre  of  political  interest, 
being  the  seat  of  government,  journalism  is  even  more  favored  with  politics  here  than  else- 
where, and  the  leading  journalists  are  frequently  politicians.  Dr.  Luis  Salinas  Vega,  a familiar 
fgure  in  social  and  political  circles,  was  the  founder  of  El  Comercio  de  Bolivia,  and  may  be 
regarded  as  the  Nestor  of  the  Bolivian  press.  Don 
Alfredo  Ascarrunz,  editor  of  El  Comercio,  is  a diplo- 
maf  st  and  an  orator  of  distinguished  ability.  Don 
Carlos  Villegas,  editor  of  El  Comercio  de  Bolivia, 
and  Don  Abel  Alarcon,  editor  of  El  Diario  and 
director  of  the  National  Library,  are  prominent  in 
public  affairs.  The  Circulo  Literario  no  longer 
exists,  and  La  Revisla,  which  ten  years  ago  was 
the  fourishing  organ  of  the  Centro  de  Estudios, 
under  the  editorial  management  of  Don  Hiram 
Loaiza  and  Don  Juan  Mas,  has  been  suspended; 
but  a clever  little  bibelot  is  published,  called  Ten- 
talivas,  which  keeps  alive  literary  sentiment  in 
the  City  of  Peace.  Oruro  has  two  daily  papers, 

El  Tribuno-in^  La  Tarde;  Cochabamba  has  sev- 
eral, El  Dia,  edited  by  Don  Braulio  Pinto,  being 
one  of  the  most  important;  La  Capital,  La  Indiis- 
Iria  and  La  Manana  are  the  chief  dailies  of  Sucre; 

El  Tienipo  of  Potosi,  La  Lev  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  La  Estrella  of  Tarija,  complete  the  list. 

The  literature  of  Bolivia  has  had  among  its  exponents  more  than  one  authoress  and 
poetess,  the  most  famous  writer  of  the  bello  sexo  having  been  Dona  Maria  Josefa  Mujia,  the 


SENOR  DR.  ANDRES  MUNOZ. 


BOLiyiA 


170 

blind  poetess,  who,  in  addition  to  original  poems,  made  excellent  translations  of  Victor  Hugo 
and  Lamartine.  Dona  Mercedes  Belzu  de  Dorado,  daughter  of  President  Belzu,  Dona 
Modesta  Sanjines,  and  Sehorita  Adela  Zamudio  have  also  written  gems  in  both  prose 

and  verse.  Senorita  Zamudio, 
whose  pseudonym  is  “Sole- 
dad,”  has  not  only  produced 
exquisite  poetry,  hut  she  has 
painted  very  beautiful  pictures, 
and  may  be  considered  one  of 
Bolivia’s  best  artists. 

The  history  of  art  in  Bo- 
livia is  brief,  but  not  without 
interest.  During  colonial  times, 
when  the  capital  of  the  Audi- 
enda  of  Charcas  was  one  of 
the  principal  centres  of  Spanish 
culture  in  theNewWorld,itwas 
not  unusual  for  the  wealthy 
residents  of  Chuquisaca  and 
Potosi  to  possess  paintings  by 
the  best  masters  of  Europe.  A 
few  of  these  rare  productions 
have  been  kept  by  families 
of  the  capital  for  generations, 
though  the  greater  number  have  been  disposed  of.  Some  curious  specimens  of  art  of  the 
Flemish  school  adorn  the  walls  of  several  old  public  buildings:  and  in  the  mint  of  Potosi  is 
a collection  of  paintings,  presented  to  the  Imperial  City  by  the  Emperor  Charles  IV.  of  Spain, 
and  said  to  have  been  painted  by  Velasquez.  In  the  cathedral  of  Sucre  hangs  The  Vision 
of  Son  Qu'efdiio,  an  oil  painting  on  copper,  which  was  brought  over  from  Spain  by  one  of  the 
bishops  of  Charcas  and  presented  to  the  cathedral.  It  is  well  preserved,  and  one  of  the  best 
art  critics  of  New  York  has  judged  it  to  be  a work  of  great  value.  The  Beheading  of  Saint  Paul 
is  the  subject  of  another  painting,  also  on  copper,  signed  “Wolfaert,”  which  is  wonderfully 
preserved.  Five  beautiful  old  paintings  hang  in  the  church  of  Santa  Teresa,  of  Cochabamba. 

Sucre  and  Cochabamba  have,  perhaps,  given  to  Bolivia  her  best  artists.  Don  Avelino 
Nogales,  who  was  born  in  Sucre  in  1871,  is  one  of  the  greatest  painters  of  Bolivia.  He 
studied  art  in  Buenos  Aires,  and  early  showed  signs  of  a remarkable  gift  in  portrait  painting, 
in  which  he  excels.  A full-length  portrait  of  ex-President  Baptista  is  among  his  most 
successful  works.  Jose  Garcia  Mesa,  of  Cochabamba,  is  probably  the  best  known  of 
Bolivian  artists,  and  by  his  death,  a year  ago,  the  nation  lost  one  of  its  most  gifted  sons. 
His  life  was  devoted  to  studying  and  teaching  his  beloved  art.  His  initial  attempts  were 


INDIANS  OF  POTOSI.  A PAINTING  BY  THE  BOLIVIAN  ARTIST, 
DON  ANICETO  VALDEZ. 


mTELLECTUAL  PROGRESS 


171 

exhibited  in  Sucre  and  Buenos  Aires,  and  later  he  went  to  Europe.  At  Rome  he  succeeded 
in  gaining  an  honorable  place  among  the  best  artists,  and  two  of  his  paintings,  La  Ciociarra 
and  Los  Pescadores  en  el  Tiber,  were  hung  in  the  Salon.  The  last-named  was  awarded 
Honorable  Mention,  and  the  artist  was  elected  to  membership  in  the  International  Artistic 
Association  of  Rome.  He  had  the  honor,  while  at  Rome,  of  painting  a portrait  of  Queen 
Margharita;  and  one  of  his  paintings,  a Saint  Louis,  was  hung  in  the  church  of  Yassy,  after 
receiving  the  blessing  of  Pope  Leo  XI 11.  In  1887  he  went  to  Paris  and  devoted  his  talent 
to  portrait  painting,  in  which  lay  his  forte.  His  portrait  of  President  Schenk,  of  Switzerland, 
now  hangs  in  the  Legislative  Hall  of  Berne.  He  painted  portraits  of  several  distinguished 
Europeans,  achieving  considerable  success  in  his  chosen  field.  Returning  to  Bolivia,  he 
founded  an  academy  of  painting  in  the  capital,  under  the  protection  of  the  government,  but 
later  he  transferred  it  to  Cochabamba,  where  it  was  established  under  favorable  auspices, 
and  was  maintained  until  his  death.  He  is  the  author  of  two  historical  paintings,  Murillo  on 
the  Gallows  and  The  Martyrdom  of  San  Sebastian. 

Among  the  artists  who  have  recently  achieved  distinction  are  Aniceto  Valdez,  author  of 
Indians  of  Potosi  and  other  paintings  of  note,  Carlos  Berdecio,  Saturnino  Salamanca,  Porcel, 
Sainz,  Teodomiro  Beltran,  and  David  Garcia.  The  pupils  of  Jose  Garcia  Mesa  have,  with 
few  exceptions,  done  excellent  work,  Sehorita  Zamudio  being  one  of  the  most  talented 
of  his  class.  Dona  Eliza  Rocha  de  Ballivian,  who  studied  in  Santiago,  Chile,  has  produced 
several  paintings  of  merit;  and  Don  Jose  Alvarez,  caricaturist,  Don  Zendn  Iturralde,  Felix 
Jordan,  Diego  Caipio,  Cristobal  Garcia,  Pompilio  Barbed,  and  Tomas  Morales  have  shown 
artistic  talent  of  a high  order.  Sucre  is  the  home  of  a most  extraordinary  genius  in  the 
person  of  an  Indian,  who,  with  no  instruction  whatever,  has  proved  himself  an  excellent 
amateur  sculptor,  and  whose  statues  adorn  many  private  gardens  and  some  of  the  public 
parks  of  the  capital. 

In  music  the  Bolivian  has  shown  the  possession  of  much  natural  talent,  though  little 
instruction  has  been  afforded,  owing  to  the  remote  situation  of  the  country  and  its  limited 
relations  with  the  great  musical  centres  of  the  world.  There  are  several  musicians  and 
composers  of  note,  though  the  soul  of  the  nation  seems  to  find  its  best  expression  in  oratory 
and  poetry,  influenced,  as  Mantegazza  says,  by  “the  grandeur  of  nature  around,  the  sublime 
spectacle  of  which  exercises  immense  power  over  heart  and  brain,  stimulating  the  culture  of 
philosophy  and  poetry.”  Bolivia  has  produced  talent  of  widely  varying  character,  but  the 
opportunity  for  development,  especially  in  the  study  of  art  and  music,  has  been  restricted. 
The  late  Samuel  Oropeza,  when  minister  of  public  instruction,  presented  to  Congress  a plan 
for  the  establishment  of  an  academy  of  music  and  the  pensioning  of  Bolivian  students  of 
art  and  music  to  enable  them  to  pursue  their  studies  in  the  best  schools  of  Europe:  and  the 
disposition  is  marked,  on  the  part  of  the  present  government,  to  encourage  talent  in  every 
field  by  the  most  judicious  method.  Of  the  composers  who  have  dedicated  their  genius  to 
music,  Don  Teofilo  Vargas  has  achieved  the  greatest  fame.  His  first  successful  com- 
position was  a brilliant  waltz,  in  two  parts,  called  the  Proceso  Sejas,  which  was  written  to 


I?2 


BOLIVIA 


commemorate  a cause  celebre.  It  was  published  in  Paris  in  1890.  A funeral  march,  written 
for  the  occasion  of  the  obsequies  of  Bishop  Granado,  of  Cochabamba,  and  published  in  1902, 
is  regarded  as  one  of  the  author’s  best  compositions.  Suspiros,  a mazurka  published  in 
Buenos  Aires  in  1902,  and  numerous  other  recent  pieces,  are  very  popular.  He  has  com- 
posed religious  music  also,  and  is  an  expert  violinist,  interpreting  the  masters  with  great  sym- 
pathy and  intuition.  Among  other  musicians  of  note  are  several  who  have  also  achieved 
success  in  politics  and  diplomacy,  and  who  belong  to  the  best-known  families  of  the 
republic.  Adolfo  Ballivian  is  the  author  of  Rosy  Dreams.  Graceful  compositions  have  been 
written  by  Eloy  Salmon,  Eduardo  and  Daniel  Nunez  del  Prado,  Jose  Bravo,  Manuel  Luna, 
and  Francisco  Suarez,  author  of  the  waltzes  Forests  of  the  Beni,  Gtories  of  the  Acre,  and 
other  veritable  gems.  In  patriotic  music,  the  Viva  Botivia!  written  by  Samuel  Arce,  and 
Combat  and  Victory,  a military  march  by  Francisco  J.  Molina,  are  among  the  best.  Eduardo 
Berdecio  is  the  author  of  the  popular  waltz  Potosi,  which  is  in  great  vogue,  and  he  also 
wrote  Tiis  Ojos, — “Thine  Eyes,” — a very  pretty  waltz.  Jose  Lavadenz,  Ercilia  Fernandez, 
Juan  J.  Arana,  Pedro  Butron,  Dorado  Belzu,  Zenon  Espinoza,  G.  Matienzo,  and  E.  Ortega  are 
young  musicians  with  a promising  future. 

The  intellectual  progress  of  Bolivia  has  made  most  rapid  strides  within  a very  few 
years.  There  is  much  intellectual  talent  in  the  nation,  and  its  expression  needs  only  the 
encouragement  which  an  interchange  of  thought  and  closer  association  with  the  outside 
world  can  give.  Bolivia  may  yet  produce  Shakespeares,  Michael  Angelos,  and  Mozarts. 


SENORITA  ADELA  ZAMUDIO,  “ SOLEDAD.” 


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VIEW  OF  SUCRE  FROM  THE  SUBURBS. 


CHAPTER  X 


SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  BOLIVIA 

O the  traveller  who  views  it  for  the  first  time  from  the 
distant  heights  of  Huata,  on  the  road  leading  to  the  capital 
from  the  north,  the  beautiful  white  city  of  Sucre  looks 
like  a dove  in  its  nest,  as  it  lies  enclosed  within  the 
surrounding  hills,  gleaming  in  the  bright  sunlight  under 
the  clearest  of  skies.  It  is  an  enchanfng  picture,  and 
the  traveller  involuntarily  pauses  to  enjoy  its  exquisite 
harmony.  Repose  and  beauty  are  expressed  in  the 
whole  panorama  which  spreads  out  before  one  at  this 
magnifcent  vantage  point.  Nature  is  calm  on  the  sum- 
mits and  in  the  valleys,  the  heavens  are  serene  and 
smiling,  and  the  fair  city  nestling  there  is  a vision  of 
delight.  It  impresses  the  imagination  like  the  reading 
of  a beautiful  romance,  the  sound  of  sweet  music,  or  a 
day-dream  in  June.  A nearer  approach  gives  anima- 
tion to  the  picture,  which  is  ever  charming.  Groups  are 
seen  to  pass  and  repass  on  the  busy  thoroughfares ; elegant  equipages  can  be  distinguished 
in  the  parks  and  along  the  avenues:  and  donkeys,  resting  in  the  shade,  or  trotting  along 
with  their  loads,  cholas  and  Indians  with  bundles  on  their  backs,  and  children  playing  about 
the  doorways,  indicate  the  poorer  quarters  where  work  and  rest  have  no  separate  abode. 
Here  and  there  a tall  chimney,  with  the  smoke  curling  up  from  it,  marks  the  site  of  the 
factory  or  mill,  and  shows  that  the  spirit  of  enterprise  is  not  wanting.  Numerous  church 
towers  rise  above  the  tiled  roofs.  Upon  entering  the  capital,  the  foreigner’s  f rst  impression 
is  one  of  surprise  that  a city  so  remote  from  the  centres  of  social  and  commercial  progress 
in  the  Old  and  the  New  World  should  present  such  a modern  appearance,  with  so  many 
evidences  of  wealth  and  culture.  The  sight  of  paved  streets,  handsome  public  buildings, 
plazas,  driveways,  and  private  residences  that  are  in  some  instances  veritable  palaces,  shatters 

•7^ 


BOLIVIA 


176 

the  preconceived  ideas  of  this  far  away  metropolis.  Although  situated  in  the  heart  of  South 
America,  from  two  to  three  days’  ride  by  diligence  from  the  nearest  railway,  and  longer  by 

muleback, — according  to  the  season  and  the  con- 
sequent condition  of  the  roads, — Sucre  is  as  Euro- 
pean as  any  city  of  old  Spain,  and  much  more 
advanced  than  most  of  them.  The  glorious  climate 
makes  mere  existence  a delight,  and  the  pure  air 
of  this  altitude,  which  is  ten  thousand  feet  above 
sea  level,  contributes  to  render  it  one  of  the  most 
healthful  and  agreeable  places  of  residence  imagi- 
nable. The  inhabitants  show  the  influence  of  its 
inspiring  atmosphere,  and  are,  as  a rule,  happy, 
contented,  and  genial.  Everyone  who  has  visited 
Sucre,  even  for  a short  time,  retains  through  life  a 
pleasant  remembrance  of  the  beautiful  city  and 
its  cultured  and  hospitable  people.  Everything 
pertaining  to  hard  and  bitter  struggle  and  the 
turmoil  of  anxious  effort  seems  to  have  been 
banished,  or  never  to  have  existed  in  this  “Happy 
Valley”  of  the  Occident.  Occasionally  one  hears 
a sigh  and  some  reference  to  la  India  de  la  vida — 
“the  struggle  of  life” — from  a philosopher  of 
pessimistic  temperament,  but  there  is  seldom  any  deeper  sentiment  in  the  remark  than  that 
which  may  be  inspired  by  too  long  an  interval  between  fiestas.  There  is  something  restful 
in  the  quiet  dignity  with  which  the  most  urgent  business  affairs  are  despatched,  and  it  is 
refreshing  to  observe  the  hopefulness  with  which  each  day  is  welcomed  as  the  herald  of 
important  possibilities.  A Frenchman,  writing  of  the  city,  says:  “It  is  like  one  of  its  own 
lovely  ladies : it  has  the  repose  of  the  grande  dame,  the  fresh  beauty  of  the  debutante,  and 
the  fascination  of  both,  with  its  charming  atmosphere,  the  sunny  smile  of  its  skies,  and  the 
persistence  with  which  it  lingers  in  one’s  memory!”  Needless  to  say  the  Frenchman  left 
his  heart  in  the  Bolivian  capital. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  so  few  foreigners  visiting  Bolivia  ever  get  beyond  the  Titicaca 
plateau,  and  that  the  only  aspect  under  which  they  see  this  great  country  is  presented  by  the 
vast  stretches  of  the  Altaplanicie,  with  the  Ancies  marking  its  border.  The  average  traveller’s 
idea  of  Bolivian  life  and  customs  is  taken  entirely  from  the  cities  of  the  Titicaca  plateau,  and 
especially  from  La  Paz,  which,  though  the  commercial  metropolis,  progressive  and  enter- 
prising, displaying  in  its  social  life  those  characteristics  which  are  most  admired  and  give 
the  city  one  of  its  greatest  charms,  is  essentially  a “highland  city,”  and  not  typical  of 
every  town  iii  Bolivia.  Each  department  has  its  distinctive  features,  whether  of  mountain, 
valley,  or  plain,  that  give  to  the  department  capitals  an  individuality  as  marked  as  that 


COLONEL  DON  JULIO  LA  FAYE,  PREFECT  OF 
CHUQUISACA,  SUCRE. 


SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OE  BOLIUIA 


177 


which  distinguishes  London  from  Newcastle,  New  York  from  Denver,  and  Berlin  from 
Leipsic.  Sucre  differs  in  some  respects  from  La  Paz  and  other  Bolivian  cities,  which  in 
turn  differ  from  each  other. 

By  a law  passed  July  i,  1826,  Sucre  was  declared  the  provisional  capital  of  the  republic, 
and  this  title  was  confirmed  by  Congress,  July  10,  1839.  A decree  issued  June  18,  1843, 
gave  to  the  city  the  additional  title  of  “illustrious  and  heroic.”  Nearly  all  the  department 
capitals,  however,  have  had  the  honor  of  being  the  seat  of  government  at  some  period,  and 
the  sessions  of  Congress  have,  upon  many  occasions  in  the  history  of  the  republic,  taken 
place  at  Oruro  and  Cochabamba  and  at  the  present  seat  of  government.  La  Paz.  Several  amus- 
ing stories  are  related  in  this  connection.  It  is  said  that  a mystified  Englishman  once  asked 
Don  Casimiro  Olaheta,  the  Bolivian  orator:  “But  where  is,  really,  the  capital  of  Bolivia?” 
to  which  the  witty  reply  was:  La  capital  de  Bolivia  es  el  lonio  del  caballo  qiie  nionla  el 
Presidente  de  la  RepuhUca — “The  capital  of  Bolivia  is  the  back  of  the  horse  which  the 
presicJent  of  the  republic  rides.”  The  remote  situation  of  the  capital  and  the  difficulty  of 
reaching  it  at  some  seasons  of  the  year  are  largely  responsible  for  this  itinerary  system. 
Sucre  is  at  present  the  seat  of  the  Supreme  Court  and  the  archiepiscopal  see,  but, 
as  before  stated,  the  other  executive  authorities  of  the  national  government  now  have 


THE  PRINCIPALITY  OF  GLORIETA,  SUBURBS  OF  SUCRE. 


their  headquarters  at  La  Paz,  where  the  sessions  of  Congress  have  been  held  since  the 
overthrow  of  President  Alonso  in  1899  and  the  establishment  of  the  present  political  system. 


178 


BOLIVIA 


Of  the  history  ot  the  site  upon  which  the  city  was  built  which  has  been  successively 
known  as  Charcas,  Chuquisaca,  La  Plata,  and  Sucre,  little  can  be  learned  antedating  the  period 

ot  Inca  rule,  though  it  is 
known  that  the  locality 
has  been  from  time  imme- 
morial a centre  ot  popula- 
tion. The  name  Charcas 
refers,  of  course,  to  the 
tribes  to  whom  the  origi- 
nal inhabitants,  not  only  ot 
this  locality,  but  of  all  Col- 
lasuyo,  belonged.  Chu- 
quisaca, an  Indian  name, 
signifies,  according  to  va- 
rious authorities,  “the 
bridgeotgold,”  “mountain 
ot  gold,”  “stone  of  gold”: 
but,  by  whatever  inter- 
pretation, it  shows  that 
the  presence  of  the  precious  metal  in  abundance  suggested  the  title.  La  Plata  was  the 
name  given  by  the  Spaniards,  who  found  silver  in  large  quantities  in  this  locality.  The  name 
Charcas  is  no  longer  used,  except  in  an  occasional  reference  to  the  University  of  San  Fran- 
cisco Xavier  as  the  University  of  Charcas;  Chuquisaca  is  the  name  of  the  department  of 
which  Sucre  is  the  capital;  La  Plata  designates  the  archbishopric:  Sucre  is  now  the  only 
name  by  which  the  city  is  known.  The  Spaniards  could  not  have  chosen  a more  advan- 
tageous locality  for  the  founding  of  their  chief  city  in  Bolivia,  at  a time  when  the  principal 
interests  of  Spain  were  centred  in  the  rich  mines  of  her  newly  conquered  territory.  As  soon 
as  Potosi  began  to  empty  its  treasure  stores,  the  tide  of  immigration  turned  in  that  direction; 
and  as  the  extreme  altitude  prevented  many  people  from  living  at  the  famous  Cerro,  the  colonial 
capital  became  a favorite  place  of  residence  for  wealthy  Potosinos,  as  the  city  has  continued  to 
be  to  the  present  day.  It  increased  in  importance  with  the  increasing  wealth  of  the  colony, 
and  early  in  the  history  of  the  Audiencia  it  became  celebrated,  not  only  for  its  elabortate  court 
functions  and  the  costly  display  of  its  rich  inhabitants,  but  for  the  attention  paid  to  learning, 
the  University  of  San  Francisco  Xavier,  as  before  mentioned,  taking  high  rank  among  the 
best  Spanish  universities.  This  characteristic  of  the  capital  of  the  Audiencia  has  been  inherited 
by  the  capital  of  the  republic,  and  Sucre  is  noted  for  the  great  number  of  the  nation’s  most 
brilliant  and  gifted  sons  who  claim  it  as  their  birthplace.  The  history  of  the  city  has  been 
related  in  that  of  the  whole  country;  it  would  be  impossible  to  give  a record  of  events 
concerning  either  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas  or  the  republic  of  Bolivia  without  presenting  to 
constant  view  the  capital  city,  which  has  been  so  often  the  chief  theatre  of  action. 


SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OE  BOLIUIA 


179 


Every  public  square  and  every  street  has  its  story  connected  with  some  period  of  the 
city’s  history,  and  all  the  older  buildings  have  historic  interest.  The  legislative  palace,  which 
was  formerly  a Jesuit  convent,  has  been  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  important  events  in 
the  history  of  Bolivia.  During  colonial  days,  the  general  chapel,  as  it  was  called,  was  used  as 
an  assembly  hall,  where  all  the  corporations  and  chief  authorities  had  their  reunions.  In 
this  hall  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  Chuquisaca  patriots,  Don  Ramon  Garcia  de  Leon  Pizarro, 
was  imprisoned  for  a share  in  the  memorable  revolution  of  August  2^,  1809,  and  it  was  here 
that  the  Act  of  Independence  was  signed  on  August  6,  182^.  It  is  the  sala  for  the  use  of 
the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  and  has  witnessed  many  stirring  scenes  in  the  meetings  of 
Congress  held  within  its  walls.  It  has  two  parliamentary  tribunes,  besides  one  for  diplo- 
matic representatives:  a magnificently  carved  and  gilded  choir,  which  attracts  attention 
because  of  its  artistic  design  and  exquisite  workmanship,  and  which  is  only  one  of  many 
legacies  of  architectural  beauty  bequeathed  to  posterity  by  the  Jesuit  wood  and  stone 
carvers,  extends  as  a gallery  along  one  end  of  the  sala,  and  is  known  as  the  ladies’  gallery 
of  the  House.  The  Senate  is  a spacious  hall  occupying  one  side  of  the  palace,  and  having  as 
its  most  conspicuous  adornment  a bust  of  the  celebrated  Bolivian  statesman  who  was  one 
of  the  nation’s  greatest  presidents,  Sehor  Don  Tomas  Frias.  In  the  sj/j  of  the  Chamber  of 
Deputies  have  been  placed  handsome  commemorative  busts  of  General  Bolivar,  General 
Sucre,  and  General  Ballivian;  and  in  the  same  hall  the  swords  of  the  victors  of  Ayacucho 
and  Ingavi  are  preserved  among  the  nation’s  priceless  relics.  The  saddle  cloth  which  was 
worn  by  General  Sucre’s 
horse  on  the  day  of  the 
mutiny,  when  the  general 
was  shot  in  the  arm  just 
before  Colonel  Lopez 
came  to  his  rescue,  and 
which  still  shows  the 
stain  of  blood,  is  among 
the  souvenirs  of  the  illus- 
trious hero  of  Ayacucho 
that  remain  in  the  city 
bearing  his  name.  It  is 
a valued  possession  of 
the  prefect  of  Chuqui- 
saca, Colonel  Julio  La 
Faye,  whose  grandfather. 

Colonel  Lopez,  received 
it  as  a parting  gift  from 
the  “philosopher  soldier’’  before  the  latter  left  Bolivia.  It  is  magnificently  embroidered  in 
gold.  Colonel  La  Faye  may  some  day  present  it  to  the  nation,  to  be  exhibited  among  its 


MUNICIPAL  PALACE.  SUCRE. 


i8o 


BOLiyiA 


most  precious  historical  heirlooms.  The  Pacheco  fiiica  marks  the  site  of  the  house  in  which 
General  Sucre  recuperated  from  the  effects  of  the  wound  in  his  arm,  and  where  he  dictated 

his  abdication  to  one  of 
the  young  captains  of  his 
army  who  acted  as  his 
secretary.  It  is  a cele- 
brated document,  and  is 
regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  demon- 
strations of  patriotic  feel- 
ing, exalted  integrity  and 
rhetorical  brilliancy  in 
the  history  of  Spanish- 
American  politics.  The 
young  captain  who  wrote 
the  abdication  was  Jose 
Ballivian,  afterward  one 
of  Bolivia’s  most  illus- 
trious generals,  and  the 
hero  of  her  greatest  bat- 
tle, Ingavi.  Romance  has 
its  share,  too,  in  the  stories  that  survive  regarding  General  Sucre,  and  a picturesque  country 
place  is  pointed  out  as  having  been  the  home  of  a beautiful  daughter  of  the  capital  who 
won  the  heart  of  the  hero,  and  whose  white  kerchief  fluttering  from  a window  that  peeped 
out  among  the  trees  was  a signal  as  powerful  to  lead  the  great  soldier  into  love’s  silken 
campaign  as  was  his  country’s  flag  to  plunge  him  into  the  storm  of  patriotic  combat.  “The 
bravest  are  the  tenderest  ’’  under  all  the  flags  of  the  world. 

The  new  government  palace  is  the  handsomest  public  building  in  Sucre.  It  occupies 
half  a square  on  the  west  side  of  the  principal  plaza  and  consists  of  three  stories  and  a 
magnificent  cupola  which  has  a mirador,  or  balcony,  affording  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the 
city  and  surrounding  country.  Spacious  salas  are  provided  for  the  use  of  the  chief  executive 
and  for  the  offices  of  the  ministers  of  state.  Architecturally  and  in  its  modern  style  of 
construction,  the  new  palace  is  a fine  example  of  building  enterprise.  When  finished  it  will 
be  furnished  in  harmony  with  the  most  tasteful  ideas  of  artistic  decoration.  Already  much 
of  the  furniture  has  been  purchased,  great  mirrors  have  been  ordered  for  the  salones  as  well 
as  rich  curtains  and  carpets.  The  plan  of  the  building  is  effective,  the  double  marble  stair- 
cases leading  from  the  grand  entrance,  which  turn  to  form  a single  staircase  midway  between 
the  ground  floor  and  that  above,  presenting  a particularly  imposing  appearance  between  stately 
marble  columns.  The  halls  and  corridors  are  spacious  and  conveniently  arranged,  not  only 
for  executive  and  administrative  purposes,  but  as  banquet  halls,  ballrooms,  and  reception 


SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  BOLIUIA 


i8i 


parlors.  The  facade  of  the  building  shows  in  the  centre  the  national  coat  of  arms,  and  above 
it  the  legend  La  Union  es  la  Fner{a — “ Union  is  Strength.”  Over  the  entrance  is  sculptured 
in  high  relief  a shield  bearing  the  coat  of  arms  of  each  of  the  departments  of  Bolivia. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  Executive  Palace,  the  Palace  of  Justice  claims  special  attention. 
In  its  halls  are  held  the  sessions  of  the  Supreme  Court,  Superior  Court,  and  lesser  judicial 
authorities.  It  contains  the  offices  of  the  national  Tribunal  de  Cuentas,  Prefectura,  and 
Comandancia  General  of  the  department  of  Chuquisaca,  the  General  Archives  of  the  nation, 
the  administration  offices  of  the  departmental  treasury,  and  the  Public  Library,  containing  about 
ten  thousand  volumes.  This  imposing  old  edifice  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the  city.  Its 
style  is  the  earliest  colonial  period,  when  it  was  erected  as  a Dominican  convent.  The  cloisters 
on  the  second  floor  are  still  apparently  as  solid  as  they  were  centuries  ago,  and  surpass  the 
most  substantial  corridors  and  galleries  built  to-day.  In  the  patio  is  an  old  quadrant  or  sun- 
dial of  colonial  days,  which  still  is  as  serviceable  as  ever.  The  salas  of  the  Supreme  Court  are 
furnished  appropriately  and  in  good  taste,  and  upon  the  walls  are  oil  portraits  of  the  most 
distinguished  jurists  of  the  republic.  In  the  Superior  Court  several  old  paintings  attract  atten- 
tion, though  only  one,  a painting  of  the  Crucifixion,  appears  to  have  particular  merit.  The 
president  of  the  Supreme  Court,  Sehor  Don  Fenelon  Pereira,  is  one  of  the  most  distinguished 
jurists  of  Bolivia,  and  a statesman  of  unimpeachable  integrity  as  well  as  superior  talent. 

Prominent  among  the  historical  institutions  of  the  country  is  the  University  of  San 
Francisco  Xavier;  which,  however,  pertains  more  appropriately  to  the  subject  of  educational 
institutions,  to  be  de- 
scribed in  a later  chapter, 
along  with  the  Military 
College  and  School  of 
Engineering,  the  School 
of  Medicine,  and  other 
educational  establish- 
ments. The  Manicomio 
Pacheco,  the  Hospital  de 
Santa  Barbara,  and  simi- 
lar charitable  institutions, 
have  previously  been 
referred  to  in  connection 
with  the  noble  charities 
with  which  the  ladies  of 
Bolivia  are  largely  identi- 
fied. The  Consistorial 
Palace,  in  which  the 
Geographic  Society  of  Sucre  holds  its  sessions,  one  of  the  important  public  buildings,  faces 
the  principal  plaza,  which  is  called  Plaza  25'  de  Mayo  in  memory  of  the  first  strike  for 


i82 


BOLiyiA 


independence.  Among  public  offices  of  note  are:  the  Post  Office,  adjoining  the  Palace  of 
Justice,  the  quartels  and  police  headquarters,  the  Public  Market,  the  Municipal  Custom 

House,  and  the  Tambo 
de  la  Independenda,  as 
the  penitentiary  is  called, 
— tambo  meaning  “inn.” 
Sucre  has  eight 
churches,  twelve  chap- 
els, two  convents,  three 
monasteries,  and  three 
cloistered  nunneries. 
Being  the  seat  of  the 
archbishopric  of  La  Plata, 
its  importance  as  an  ec- 
clesiastical centre  can 
readily  be  appreciated. 
The  great  Metropolitan 
Basilica,  a solid  edifice  of 
the  seventeenth  century, 
to  which  a handsome 
tower  was  added  late  in  the  nineteenth  century,  faces  the  Plaza  25'  de  Mayo.  It  is  the 
richest  cathedral  in  Bolivia,  having  many  gold  and  silver  ornaments  and  precious  jewels. 
The  ciistodki,  or  casket,  in  which  the  consecrated  Host  is  manifested  to  public  veneration, 
is  set  with  precious  stones  of  rare  value.  In  all  the  churches  the  image  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin  is  covered  with  jewels.  The  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  an  image  of  solid  gold,  is  adorned 
with  jewels  which  are  said  to  be  worth  a million  dollars.  The  archbishop’s  palace,  adjoining 
the  Basilica,  is  an  old  colonial  edifice,  spacious  and  richly  furnished,  as  befitting  the  residence 
of  one  of  the  highest  dignitaries  of  the  Church.  San  Felipe,  the  oratory  of  the  Fathers  of 
Saint  Philip,  shows  wonderful  specimens  of  colonial  wood  carving;  and  the  spacious  church 
of  Santo  Domingo,  the  monasteries  of  Santa  Clara,  and  Santa  Teresa,  the  convent  of  the 
Franciscans,  and  the  numerous  other  buildings  for  religious  worship,  are  noteworthy 
examples  of  the  ecclesiastic  architecture  of  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries. 

The  city  has  nine  plazas.  The  Plaza  2^  de  Mayo  is  situated  in  the  very  heart  of  the 
city,  which  is  planned  in  the  form  of  a diamond.  Two  small  streams,  one  on  each  side  of 
thie  plaza,  carry  through  the  city,  in  opposite  directions,  the  headwaters  of  two  of  the  greatest 
rivers  in  the  world.  One  pours  its  sparkling  tide  into  the  Rio  Grande,  to  join  the  Mamore, 
thence  through  sloping  plains  and  densely  wooded  forests,  to  reach  the  winding  course  and 
tumbling  rapids  of  the  greater  Madeira,  losing  itself  in  the  mightiest  affluent  of  the  Amazon ; 
the  other,  the  picturesque  Cachimayo,  blithely  begins  its  long  journey  in  the  canons  and 
gorges  of  the  serraiiias  of  Yamparaez,  growing  more  sluggish  as  it  finds  itself  in  the  broad 


SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  BOLIVIA 


183 

river  bed  of  the  Pilcomayo,  sometimes  no  more  than  a lazy  stream,  and  again  spreading  into 
a broad,  though  shallow,  lake,  overhung  with  verdure  of  tropical  luxuriance,  idling  along, 
until  it  enters  the  Paraguay  opposite  the  city  of  Asuncion,  and  passes  down,  between  orange 
groves  and  fertile  gardens,  to  the  great  estuary  of  La  Plata.  The  one  to  the  north,  the  other 
to  the  south,  each  carries  its  message  across  the  continent  of  South  America  from  the 
beautiful  city  of  southern  Bolivia;  and  whatever  of  marsh  and  miasma  they  may  encounter 
on  their  way  to  the  sea,  whatever  scenes  of  desolation  they  may  pass  on  their  long  route, 
only  the  sweetest  purity  and  limpid  freshness  mark  them  as  they  leave  their  mountain 
source,  and  the  only  reflections  in  their  clear  waters  are  of  beauty  and  content.  Thus  too 
the  mighty  tide  of  patriotism  that  first  bubbled  out  of  the  hearts  of  the  noble  heroes  who 
made  the  2^  de  Mayo  memorable  in  the  annals  of  the  Independence,  flowed  pure  and  unde- 
tiled  from  its  fountain  head,  whatever  tortuous  windings  it  may  have  suffered,  and  whatever 
evils  it  may  have  met  in  the  long  war  that  it  carried  to  the  colonies  of  all  South  America ! 
And  as  the  mighty  Amazon  and  the  broad  La  Plata  owe  a debt  to  the  little  mountain 
streams  that  feed  them,  so  the  South  American  republics  owe  their  gratitude  to  the  initiative 
of  the  Bolivian  patriots,  which  was  the  source  of  a continent’s  inspiration. 

In  addition  to  the  Plaza  2^  de  Mayo,  which  is  adorned  with  gardens,  fountains,  and 
a pretty  kiosk,  there  is  the  beautiful  Plaza  Libertad,  in  tlie  centre  of  which  stands  a 
marble  column  surmounted  by  the  Phrygian  cap  of  Liberty;  the  Plaza  Sucre,  with  a bust 
of  the  grand  marshal 
of  Ayacucho  adorning  a 
handsome  monument; 
the  Plazas  Monteagudo, 

Recoleto,  and  others. 

Out  of  the  city  good 
roads  lead  in  several 
directions  to  the  pictur- 
esque suburbs,  and,  be- 
yond, to  the  highways 
which  conduct  the  trav- 
eller to  Potosi,  Cocha- 
bamba, Challapata,  and 
other  distant  cities.  The 
excellent  condition  of  the 
roads,  as  well  as  other 
notable  signs  of  develop- 
ment in  the  department, 
are  due  to  the  direction 
of  the  prefect.  Colonel  Julio  La  Faye,  whose  devotion  to  the  interests  of  his  department  is 
seen  in  many  improved  public  works.  The  road  and  bridge  of  Azero,  the  complete  building 


184 


BOLIVIA 


up  of  hitherto  bad  roads  southward,  and  especially  the  establishment  of  the  system  of  water 
works,  to  be  brought  from  the  Cerro  of  Cajamarca,  prove  not  only  the  will  to  promote  the 

best  interests  of  progress  in 
this  part  of  the  country,  but  the 
talent  necessary  to  initiate  and 
successfully  carry  out  the  most 
important  reforms.  Colonel  La 
Faye  has  occupied  his  present 
post  since  1900.  Previous  to 
that  time  he  held  other  offices 
of  importance  in  the  govern- 
ment, and  as  orator,  diplomat, 
soldier,  and  statesman,  his  ca- 
reer has  been  one  of  brilliancy 
and  absolute  integrity. 

The  inauguration  of  a new 
system  of  water  works  in  Sucre 
is  a particularly  important  event. 
When  the  government  resolved 
to  bring  the  waters  of  the  Cerro  of  Cajamarca,  fifteen  miles  away,  to  the  city  of  Sucre,  it 
was  decided  to  use  the  source  in  the  springs  formed  by  the  headwaters  of  the  Cajamarca, 
Uyuni,  Pucaloma,  and  Kolpamayo  rivers,  which  belong  to  the  Amazon  system.  The 
quantity  to  be  supplied  will  be  six  thousand  cubic  metres  per  day,  more  than  sufficient 
for  the  population  of  Sucre,  which  has  about  twenty-f  ve  thousand  inhabitants.  The  work 
of  laying  the  pipes  and  completing  the  system  will  take  about  three  years,  and  will  cost 
approximately  one  million  bolivianos.  Sufficient  energy  will  be  transmitted  from  the  head- 
quarters of  the  water  works  for  the  public  and  private  lighting  of  the  city  and  for  the  local 
industries.  Abundant  material  is  found  in  the  Cerro  for  the  purposes  of  construction. 
Portland  cement  cannot  be  used  because  of  the  high  price  at  which  it  sells  in  Sucre,  six 
hundred  bolivianos  per  metric  ton.  The  Cerro  of  Cajamarca  is  particularly  well  chosen  as 
the  source  of  Sucre’s  water  supply,  as  its  rainy  season  is  distinct  from  that  of  Sucre,  though 
at  so  short  a distance  away,  and  its  register  of  rainfall  is  double  that  of  the  city.  The 
engineer  and  director  of  the  enterprise,  Sehor  Don  Carlos  Doynel,  a Belgian,  who  has  had 
great  experience  in  such  undertakings,  is  enthusiastic  over  the  promising  features  of  the  work. 

By  the  establishment  of  an  improved  system  of  water  works  and  the  development  of 
energy  sufficient  to  provide  motive  power  for  the  factories  of  the  city,  the  manufacturing 
interests  will  profit  considerably.  While  tliis  branch  of  industry  is  still  in  its  infancy,  it  can 
nevertheless  show  very  encouraging  signs  and,  in  some  instances,  great  progress.  One  of 
the  most  important  enterprises  is  the  chocolate  factory  of  Aranjuez,  owned  by  Rodriguez 
Brothers,  which  produces  three  hundred  pounds  daily  of  the  most  delicious  chocolate.  It  is 


SUCRE,  THE  CAPITAL  OE  BOLIUIA 


.8^ 


an  interesting  process  to  watch  the  grinding  of  the  cacao  berry  into  a powder,  its  mixture 
with  sugar,  always  the  purest  white  granulated  quality,  and  the  gradual  conversion  into  the 
chocolate  sticks  of  commerce.  It  is  shipped  to  all  parts  of  Bolivia  and  to  Chile,  neatly  put 
up  in  a similar  style  to  the  Chocolat-Menier,  so  familiar  in  other  countries.  Sucre  has  also 
a flour  mill,  in  which  North  American  machinery  is  used.  The  flour,  which  is  made  by  a 
firm  also  engaged  in  manufacturing  cigars  and  cigarettes,  is  of  a superior  grade,  and  was 
given  a premium  in  the  Buffalo  Exposition  of  1901  for  its  fine  quality. 

Fruit  preserving  is  one  of  the  flourishing  industries,  and  at  Nuccho,  a few  miles  out  of 
the  city,  there  are  several  large  preserving  establishments.  Nuccho  is  an  ideal  country 
place,  and  every  visitor  to  Sucre  enjoys  a trip  to  this  historic  resort.  It  was  in  this  pictur- 
esque spot,  on  the  site  where  the  Pacheco  finca  now  stands,  that  General  Sucre  recuperated 
from  his  wound  after  the  mutiny  of  1828,  and  here  he  dictated  his  famous  abdication.  It  is 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Cachimayo,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Yotala,  in  the  midst  of 
magnificent  scenery  which  combines  the  grandeur  of  lofty  mountains  with  the  pastoral 
beauty  of  green  meadows  and  prosperous-looking  farms.  Many  of  the  beautiful  haciendas 
near  Sucre  have  fruit  farms  and  dairies,  from  which  are  shipped  the  finest  products  the 
market  affords.  The  beautiful  suburb  of  Cachimayo  has  many  gardens  and  vineyards,  and 
wine  of  an  excellent  quality  is  made.  During  the  bathing  season  Cachimayo  is  a popular 
social  resort,  many  Sucre  families  spending  there  the  months  of  spring  and  autumn.  The 
beautiful  avenues  leading  out  of  Sucre  pass  many  of  these  charming  suburbs,  the  chief 
among  them  being,  beyond  doubt,  the  country  home  of  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Glorieta. 
The  prince,  being  Bolivian  minister  in  Paris,  seldom  visits  his  home  these  days,  but  a staff 
of  administrators  and  overseers  attends  to  the  care  of  the  place.  Guereo  and  Florida  are 
also  beautiful  fiiicas,  adorning  the  city’s  outskirts  with  their  stately  trees,  and  an  abundance 
of  flowers  enhances  the  beauty  of  the  handsome  houses  and  well-trimmed  grounds. 

The  climate  of  Sucre,  as  previously  stated,  is  superb.  Endemic  fevers  and  similar  ail- 
ments do  not  occur  in  the  city,  and  the  air  is  so  dry  that  the  psychrometer  has  been  known 
to  register  0°,  which  is  seldom  noted  elsewhere.  Typhoid  fever  and  diphtheria  appear  at 
times,  but  statistics  show  a diminution  in  the  death  rate  from  these  causes,  owing  to  im- 
proved sanitation.  During  the  rainy  season,  from  October  to  March,  there  are  sometimes 
terrific  electric  storms,  magnificent  to  witness  from  a distance,  but  disquieting  to  the  timid 
in  their  midst. 

Sucre  counts  few  foreigners  among  her  citizens,  but  those  who  live  there  are  devoted 
to  their  adopted  home.  The  English  and  North  American  residents — of  whom  Mr.  Thomas 
Moore  is  the  best  known,  having  lived  half  a lifetime  there,  and  married  a charming 
Bolivian — could  be  counted  upon  the  fingers  of  one  hand,  and  there  are  almost  as  few  of 
other  foreign  nationalities.  But  the  hospitable  and  courteous  people  of  this  attractive  city 
have  a warm  welcome  and  a kindly  good-bye  for  all  strangers  who  visit  them,  and  life  is 
made  very  agreeable.  There  are  several  good  clubs,  the  Club  de  la  Union  being  one  of  the 
richest  and  of  the  best  ton  in  Bolivia.  Its  entertainments  are  on  a scale  of  great  luxury;  and 


i86 


BOLiyiA 


when  LI  bLill  or  special  function  is  given,  no  expense  is  spared  to  make  the  occasion  worthy 
of  the  best  society  of  the  republic. 

Though  everyone  seems  to  recall  with  the  greatest  facility  the  impression  made  by  a first 
glimpse  of  Sucre,  few  remember  its  aspect  at  parting ; for  they  see  it  either  through  a mist 
of  tears,  or  with  the  sight  far  away  from  what  the  eyes  are  looking  upon.  One  recalls  the 
LiffectioiiLite  good-byes,  and  the  dear  faces  of  sweet  friends  who  have  been  won  during  a 
too  brief  stay  in  tliLit  enchanting  spot  never  fade  out  of  memory;  but,  on  taking  leave,  one’s 
thoughts  are  devoted  less  to  the  place  than  to  the  people,  who  have  won  their  way  into  the 
heart  and  memory  so  completely  that  their  beautiful  city  remains  only  as  a background 
against  which  to  group  “the  cherished  pictures  that  hang  on  memory’s  wall.” 


THE  MISSES  RODRIGUEZ,  SUCRE. 


MILITARY  COLLEGE,  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  XI 

EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS— SYSTEMS  OF  INSTRUCTION 


T ONG  after  the  successful  War  of 
^ Independence  had  given  political 
freedom  to  South  America,  and  repub- 
lican rule  had  been  established  in  every 
Spanish-speaking  country  from  the 
Caribbean  Sea  to  Cape  Horn,  the  dele- 
terious effects  of  the  restricted  system 
of  education  which  Spain  had  imposed 
on  her  colonies  through  nearly  three 
centuries  were  still  to  be  noted  in  the 
habits  of  thought  prevailing  among  the 
people  as  a whole.  Inherited  tenden- 
cies must  be  held  responsible  for  the 
inadequate  standard  of  national  culture 
which  governed  the  South  American 
republics  more  or  less  until  within  a 
comparatively  recent  period.  Consider- 
ing the  enormous  obstacles  which  had 
to  be  overcome,  evolution  has  been 
rapid  under  the  stimulating  influence 
of  national  liberty,  and  to-day  there 
are  few  South  American  countries  in  which  popular  sentiment  has  not  outgrown  the  purely 
theoretical  tendency  of  the  antiquated  Spanish  system  of  education,  with  its  class  distinc- 
tions and  limited  scope.  From  time  immemorial  the  power  of  Spain  had  been  represented 
by  the  Church  and  the  army,  and  education  was  for  centuries  held  in  esteem  only  as  it 
promoted  the  influence  of  the  one  and  the  prestige  of  the  other.  It  is  not  surprising, 

therefore,  that  its  compass  was  narrowly  limited,  and  that  it  was  of  a character  little  adapted 

189 


ENTRANCE  TO  DON  BOSCO  COLLEGE,  LA  PAZ. 


BOLiyiA 


190 

to  popular  needs.  Religious  and  military  training  received  careful  attention,  but  the  masses 
of  the  people  were  entirely  neglected  in  the  provision  made  for  general  education.  The 
entire  Spanish  system  had,  besides,  such  a pronounced  tendency  to  develop  theoretical 
knowledge  exclusive  of  its  practical  application,  that  the  result  was  a superfluity  of  orators, 
poets,  and  philosophers,  but  comparatively  few  scientists,  inventors,  or  geniuses  in  the  art 
of  construction.  It  is  true  that  under  the  Spanish  system  the  celebrated  University  of  San 
Francisco  Xavier  flourished  in  the  capital  of  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas,  now  Sucre,  and  that 
to  its  students  is  to  be  attributed  the  first  revolutionary  movement  in  favor  of  South  Amer- 
ican liberty:  but  in  contrast  with  the  few  brilliant  examples  of  intellectual  vigor  and  enterprise 
brought  into  prominence  through  the  events  of  the  War  of  the  Independence  there  were 
thousands  of  sentimental  dreamers  in  the  various  colleges  of  the  viceroyalties,  who,  educated 
in  the  prevailing  ideas  of  those  days,  absorbed  knowledge  as  it  was  given  to  them,  without 
evincing  any  evidence  of  mental  initiative,  and  without  contributing  anything  of  value  to  the 
cause  of  human  progress. 

The  University  of  San  Francisco  Xavier  is  famous  as  having  been  one  of  the  few 
notable  exceptions  to  the  inefficiency  of  educational  institutions  in  the  Spanish  colonies: 
for,  although  its  curriculum  of  studies  followed  the  limited  system  of  Spanish  education  in 
general,  yet  it  developed  superior  intellectual  quality,  and  its  graduates  adorned  the  highest 
circles  of  learning  in  America  and  Europe.  The  university  was  founded  in  the  year  162^,  in 
accordance  with  the  same  rules  and  enjoying  the  same  privileges  as  the  University  of 
Salamanca  of  Spain,  which  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  was  at  one  time  the  most  celebrated 
of  all  European  institutions  of  learning.  The  establishment  of  universities  in  America  began 
within  fifty  years  after  the  conquest,  the  first,  that  of  Lima,  being  founded  by  a royal  decree, 
granted  in  to  a friar  of  the  Dominican  order,  who  was  afterward  the  first  Bishop  of 
Chuquisaca.  The  Universities  of  Lima  and  Mexico,  the  latter  founded  a few  years  after 
that  of  Lima,  constituted  the  only  advanced  institutions  of  learning  in  America  for  many 
years,  although,  in  order  to  attend  to  the  necessities  of  the  Church  and  to  avoid  annoyance 
and  expense  to  students  living  at  a great  distance,  concessions  for  the  opening  of  others 
began  early  to  be  granted  to  the  religious  orders,  and  bishops  were  permitted  to  confer 
academic  degrees  on  scholars  who  had  studied  a certain  number  of  years  in  Dominican 
and  Jesuit  colleges.  The  Universities  of  Quito,  Bogota,  Cordova,  and  Chuquisaca  were 
founded  in  quick  succession.  According  to  chronicles  of  the  times,  the  studies  pursued 
in  these  universities  were  limited  to  a knowledge  of  Latin,  the  students  devoting  them- 
selves especially  to  the  study  of  poetry  and  philosophy,  including  logic,  theology,  ethics, 
metaphysics,  and  kindred  subjects.  The  extraordinary  power  which  the  University  of  San 
Francisco  Xavier  wielded  in  South  American  politics  at  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury is  attributed  partly  to  the  advantages  of  its  location,  and  partly  to  the  peculiar  character 
it  developed  under  the  influence  of  rich  crioUos,  many  of  whom  were  descendants  of 
those  belligerent  Vicunas  who  in  an  earlier  period  had  so  persistently  demonstrated  their 
patriotic  antipathy  to  the  avaricious  Vascongado  Spaniards,  gradually  gaining  advantages  over 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS—SYSTEMS  OF  INSTRUCTION 


191 

them,  and  compelling  them  to  recognize  native  rights  in  the  distribution  of  the  enormous 
wealth  of  Potosi  and  Chuquisaca,  much  of  which  finally  found  its  way  into  the  pockets  of 
the  criollos.  Remote  from  the  domination  of  the  viceroy,  and  gradually  increasing  in  power 
as  the  combined  possession  of  wealth  and  intellectual  acumen  became  more  effective  to 
carry  out  its  plans,  this  remarkable  institution  fnally  succeeded  in  making  its  influence  felt 
in  every  act  of  the  government, 
whether  through  the  Audien- 
cia,  the  Cabildo,  or  the  Church. 

It  achieved  a distinction  and  a 
destiny  which  could  only  have 
been  possible  to  a people  of  in- 
nate independence  of  character 
and  great  mental  vigor,  capable 
of  appreciating  and  dominat- 
ing the  enormous  influence  of 
Church  and  state,  which  was  at 
that  time  arrayed  against  patri- 
otic principles.  The  national 
characteristics,  which  were  so 
conspicuous  in  the  acts  of  the 
revolutionary  criollos,  have  been 
no  less  apparent  in  the  events 
marking  the  progress  of  the 
republic,  which,  even  in  its 
stormiest  period,  has  continued 
to  reflect  the  activity  of  vigor- 
ous health,  requiring  only  the 
wise  direction  of  mature  judg- 
ment to  control  abundant  men- 
tal and  moral  force.  And  mature 
judgment  is  not  so  much  a ques- 
tion of  years  as  of  education. 

Under  the  modern  system 
of  education  which  Bolivia  has 
adopted,  in  common  with  the  most  advanced  South  American  countries,  many  long- 
cherished  ideals  have  been  swept  aside.  The  aim  of  the  present  government  is  to  provide 
instruction  suited  to  the  demands  of  the  day:  and  in  doing  so  it  has  been  necessary  to 
reorganize  the  educational  system,  leaving  out  those  features  which  belonged  ratlier  to  a 
sentimental  past  than  to  the  urgent  present,  and  adopting  others  distinctly  modern  and 
progressive.  The  national  edifice  of  learning  had  become  overgrown  with  accumulated 


SCHOOL  OF  MEDICINE,  LA  PAZ. 


192 


BOLIVIA 


traditions,  which  had  to  be  brushed  away  to  give  better  opportunity  for  the  remodelling 
of  the  structure  as  modern  needs  demanded,  even  though  regret  sometimes  accompanied 
the  banishment  of  those  charming  relics  of  historic  association  which  cling  about  every 
ancient  institution. 

By  a supreme  decree,  issued  in  1903,  the  promotion  of  national  culture  in  Bolivia,  gen- 
eral, scientific,  literary,  and  artistic,  is  intrusted  to  the  minister  of  public  instruction.  Under 
his  direction  the  educational  system  has  been  centralized  as  far  as  possible,  with  excellent 
results,  already  showing  a marked  tendency  to  unity  of  method  and  general  progress.  The 
country  is  divided  into  seven  university  districts,  corresponding  to  the  seven  departmental 
divisions.  La  Paz,  Oruro,  Cochabamba,  Chuquisaca,  Potosi,  Santa  Cruz,  and  the  Beni,  each 
district  being  under  the  jurisdiction  of  a University  Council,  authorized  to  supervise  its  public 
instruction,  under  the  direction  of  a rector,  deans,  and  directors  of  secondary  instruction,  of 
whom  the  council  is  composed.  In  the  interests  of  primary  instruction,  each  council  has  a 
special  inspector.  Education  is  free  and  obligatory;  and  instruction  is  divided  into  two 
classes,  general  and  special.  General  instruction  is  embraced  in  three  grades,  primary, 
secondary,  and  superior,  or  professional;  while  special  instruction  provides  for  training  in 
the  arts  and  sciences,  and  in  commercial  and  industrial  branches. 

The  importance  given  to  primary  instruction  under  the  present  government  augurs  well 
for  educational  progress  in  general,  as  the  attention  paid  to  this  branch  in  any  country  is  an 
infallible  index  to  the  character  and  degree  of  culture  attained  by  the  nation  as  a whole.  It 
is  not  in  the  university,  but  in  the  public  school  that  the  average  amount  of  talent  is  to  be 
found  the  world  over;  and  that  nation  which  can  show  the  highest  average  is  further 
advanced  in  progress  than  the  one  which  can  produce  the  most  distinguished  examples  of 
university  scholarship.  Bolivia,  in  directing  especial  attention  to  her  primary  schools  as  a 
means  of  raising  the  average  of  mental  culture  in  all  classes  throughout  the  republic,  is 
demonstrating  her  serious  determination  to  march  in  line  with  the  most  progressive  countries, 
and  to  establish  a new  epoch  in  national  development.  With  this  object  in  view,  commis- 
sions have  been  appointed  by  the  government  to  study  primary  school  methods  in  other 
countries,  new  school  buildings  have  been  erected  and  older  buildings  have  been  enlarged 
and  improved  to  meet  the  growing  needs,  and  purchases  have  been  made,  chiefly  in  the 
United  States,  of  textbooks,  desks,  charts,  and  other  requisites  for  primary  teaching.  Many 
of  these  purchases  have  been  destined  to  the  use  of  travelling  teachers,  who  distribute  them 
among  the  Indians,  the  government  manifesting  a firm  desire,  as  the  president  stated  in  his 
last  annual  message,  to  have  the  Indians  incorporated  in  the  programme  of  national  culture. 
Frankly  and  fearlessly,  the  government  is  laboring  to  extend  the  benefits  of  education 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  land,  appealing  to  the  people  to  lend  their 
cooperation  in  the  establishment  of  better  educational  laws,  declaring,  with  its  usual  clear- 
sighted judgment,  that  education  is  the  basis  and  foundation  of  national  prosperity,  and  that, 
in  Bolivia,  “the  great  deficiencies  which  embarrass  free  and  positive  progress  arise  out  of 
the  inelTicacy  of  the  national  education.”  When  the  need  of  a reform  is  so  boldly  recognized. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS— SYSTEMS  OE  INSTRUCTION 


•93 


and  the  chief  authorities  of  the  nation  deliberately  set  themselves  to  the  task  of  improve- 
ment, the  outlook  is  very  hopeful,  especially  when,  as  in  this  country,  public  opinion  is 
constantly  growing  in  sympathy  with  the  efforts  of  the  executive  power. 

Primary,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  termed,  popular,  education  is  in  charge  of  the  municipal 
councils,  with  the  exception  of  the  escuelas  fiscales,  or  fiscal  schools,  which  are  maintained 
by  the  state.  It  embraces  three  courses  and  is  completed  in  three  years,  there  being  nearly 
eight  hundred  primary  schools  in  the  republic,  with  an  average  attendance  of  forty  thou- 
sand pupils.  The  annual  appropriation  for  primary  education  is  about  six  hundred  thousand 
bolivianos.  According  to  recent  statistics,  the  department  of  Cochabamba  shows  a higher 
average  of  primary  school  attendance  than  any  other  district,  Chuquisaca  ranking  second 
and  La  Paz  third,  in  proportion  to  population.  The  attendance  at  private  schools  and  mis- 
sion settlements  is  not  included  in  the  foregoing  statement,  of  which  the  statistics  are 
incomplete.  Secondary  education  embraces  the  instruction  given  in  colleges  and  other 
institutions  which  are  under  the  direct  control  of  the  universities,  and  it  is  entirely  main- 
tained by  the  state.  Seven  years  complete  the  instruction  provided,  the  first  year  being 
entirely  preparatory,  while  the  remaining  six  are  given  to  general  high  school  work,  the 
graduate  receiving  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  arts,  which  entitles  him  to  enter  any  of  the  pro- 
fessional courses  given  in  the  universities.  The  appropriation  for  secondary  instruction  is 
one  hundred  thousand  bolivianos  per  annum,  the  attendance  being  about  three  thousand, 
distributed  among  eight  colleges,  five  theological  seminaries,  and  a number  of  private  schools. 
Superior  or  professional  instruction  is  given  in  three  courses,  of  which  law  requires  five 
years  for  completion,  medicine  seven  years,  and  theology  four  years.  Law  is  one  of  the 
courses  given  in  all  the  universities;  medicine  and  theology  are  included  in  the  courses  of 
study  in  the  University  of  San  Francisco  Xavier  and  in  the  universities  of  La  Paz  and 
Cochabamba:  a course  in  theology  is  also  given  in  the  University  of  Tarija,  and  Pichincha 
College  of  Potosi  has  a full  curriculum  of  studies.  The  famous  University  of  San  Francisco 
Xavier  is  still  a leading  educational  institution  of  the  country,  having  in  the  law  faculty  five 
professors  and  about  one  hundred  students,  in  the  faculty  of  medicine  six  professors  and 
fifty  students,  and  in  that  of  theology  two  professors  and  twenty-five  students.  The  College 
of  Junin,  the  Theological  Seminary  of  Sucre,  and  the  Cordova  Lyceum  prepare  students  for 
this  university,  the  rector  of  which,  Sehor  Dr.  Ignacio  Teran,  is  one  of  the  leading  educators 
of  Bolivia,  esteemed  for  his  superior  intellectual  talent,  not  only  in  his  own  country,  but  abroad. 
Dr.  Teran  has  contributed  to  the  national  literature  several  important  treatises  on  education, 
besides  which  he  has  made  a scientific  study  of  various  subjects  relating  to  South  American 
geography  and  history,  as  shown  by  his  interesting  works,  El  Gnni  Catidismo,  Diliivio 
Universal y Tiahiiaiiaeo,  and  others  of  a similar  character.  He  has  always  stood  in  the  fore- 
ground of  the  struggle  in  favor  of  modern  educational  methods,  having  been  one  of  the 
first  to  recognize  the  importance  of  the  present  system  of  unity  in  school  government,  in  the 
use  of  textbooks,  etc.,  which  he  advocated  years  ago  under  the  name  of  the  sislenia  gradual 
coiiceiitr/co.  There  have  been  comparatively  few  contributors  of  note  to  the  educational 


194 


BOLIVIA 


literature  of  Bolivia,  though  important  treatises  have  been  written  on  various  scientific 
subjects  by  leading  professors  of  the  universities  and  by  scholars  of  note,  among  others  Don 

Samuel  Ugarte,  author  of  a work  on  chemistry, 
Sehor  Davalos,  whose  treatise  on  the  light  and 
heat  of  the  sun  has  been  translated  into  sev- 
eral foreign  languages,  Don  Rafael  Pena,  Don 
Demetrio  Calvimonte,  Don  Emilio  Molina,  Don 
E.  Villamil  de  Rada,  author  of  La  Leiigua  de 
Adaii,  who  is  considered  the  first  philologist  of 
South  America,  Don  Facundo  Quiroga,  Senor 
Vila,  Sehor  Andrade  y Portugal,  and  others. 
General  Camacho  has  written  important  works 
on  military  instruction.  The  Revista  Universi- 
tar/a,  which  is  published  monthly  under  the 
auspices  of  the  University  of  San  Francisco 
Xavier,  is  probably  the  most  important  educa- 
tional periodical  in  Bolivia. 

By  a supreme  decree  issued  on  February 
19,  1906,  preparatory  engineering  was  added 
to  the  other  courses  given  in  the  University 
of  La  Paz,  marking  the  tendency  toward  a 
practical  application  of  university  training  in  its 
broadest  sense.  The  present  rector  of  the 
university.  Dr.  Manuel  B.  Mariaca,  has  accom- 
plished a great  deal  through  his  indefatigable  efforts  to  promote  the  interests  of  intellectual 
culture  in  Bolivia.  He  is  one  of  the  leading  men  of  his  country,  and  has  contributed  much 
to  its  educational  progress.  He  is  president  of  the  Medical  Society  of  La  Paz.  Prominent 
among  national  educators.  Dr.  Rodolfo  Soria  Galvarro,  rector  of  the  university  of  Oruro, 
possesses  the  versatile  intellectuality  which  distinguishes  many  of  the  brilliant  leaders  of 
his  country.  He  is  a diplomat  and  an  orator,  as  well  as  an  educator,  and  writes  with  facility 
and  in  vigorous  style  on  a variety  of  subjects.  The  University  of  Oruro  has  attained  a higher 
degree  of  learning  under  his  direction  than  ever  before. 

In  all  the  universities  of  Bolivia  especial  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  study  of  law, 
and  graduates  in  this  course  are  to  be  counted  among  the  best  jurists  that  South  America 
has  produced.  It  may  even  he  said  that  this  branch  of  university  education  has  been 
promoted  at  the  expense  of  others,  though  the  tendency  to  give  it  undue  importance  is 
growing  less  as  educators  recognize  more  and  more  the  necessity  for  directing  the  intellectual 
energies  into  various  channels  rather  than  concentrating  all  effort  along  any  one  line.  The 
science  of  medicine  attracts  an  increasing  numher  of  students  each  year,  and  the  outlook  is 
promising  for  a greatly  improved  standard  in  this  profession  in  Bolivia. 


SENOR  DR.  IGNACIO  TERa'n,  RECTOR  OF  THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  SAN  FRANCISCO  XAVIER,  SUCRE. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONSSYSTEMS  OE  INSTRUCTION 


19^ 

When  the  Jesuits  founded  the  University  of  San  Francisco  Xavier,  philosophy  and 
theology  were  the  only  studies  included  in  the  curriculum.  After  the  expulsion  of  the 
Jesuits  from  all  the  Spanish  possessions,  in  1767,  when  it  became  necessary  to  reorganize 
the  university,  the  proctor  at  that  time,  Don  Martin  de  Mendoza,  asked  of  the  Junta  de 
Temporalidades:  “that  four  professorships  of  theology  be  established,  including  prime, 
vespers,  holy  scripture,  and  dogmatic  theology:  that  two  each  be  devoted  to  philosophy, 
canons,  law,  art,  and  Latinity,  and  one  each  to  medicine  and  mathem.atics : that  the  printing 
press  used  in  Cordova  del  Tucuman  be  brought  to  Chuquisaca  in  order  that  the  university 
may  be  advertised,  and  that  the  courses  of  study,  sermons,  allegations  in  law  made  by  the 
Audiencia,  and  all  kinds  of  matter  written  by  the  natives,  whose  extraordinary  mental  gifts 
remain  unrecognized  through  lack  of  means  to  make  them  known,  may  be  published  and 
distributed  abroad.”  A royal  decree  of  1798  conceded  the  request,  but  the  professorships  in 
medicine  and  surgery  were  not  established  until  after  the  inauguration  of  the  republic, 
when,  in  1826,  Dr.  Miguel  Luna,  the  chief  surgeon  of  the  Liberating  Army,  and  General 
Sucre’s  personal  friend  and  physician,  opened  the  first  class  in  medicine  in  this  country,  at 
Chuquisaca.  An  associate  of  Dr.  Luna,  Dr.  Carlos  Augusto  Torrally,  may  be  equally  con- 
sidered as  the  founder  of  Bolivian  medicine.  He  was  chief  physician  of  the  Hospital  of 


BOOKBINDING  DEPARTMENT  OF  DON  BOSCO  COLLEGE,  LA  PAZ. 


Santa  Barbara,  of  Sucre,  for  many  years,  and  was  noted  for  his  advanced  ideas.  To  his 
instruction  Bolivia  owes  one  of  her  greatest  scholars  in  medicine.  Dr.  .Manuel  Cuellar,  whose 


BOLIVIA 


196 

name  is  known  throughout  South  America.  The  progress  of  education  in  medicine,  as  in 
all  other  studies,  was  retarded  by  unsettled  political  conditions,  and  medical  colleges  which 

were  from  time  to  time  estab- 
lished in  La  Paz,  Cochabamba, 
and  other  cities,  during  the 
first  fifty  years  of  the  republic 
were  of  intermittent  duration. 
Medical  classes  were  held  in 
the  University  of  La  Paz, 
in  Junin  College,  Sucre,  and  in 
Cochabamba,  but  the  work 
accomplished  was  of  an  uncer- 
tain character,  notwithstanding 
the  efforts  of  Dr.  Cuellar,  Dr. 
Ignacio  Cordero,  Dr.  Pedro 
Ascarrunz,  and  others,  who 
labored  constantly  to  improve 
this  branch  of  professional 
training.  When,  in  1866,  the 
first  classic  models  and  skeletons  were  purchased  by  the  government  and  placed  in  the 
medical  schools  of  La  Paz,  Sucre,  and  Cochabamba,  the  acquisition  was  regarded  as  marking 
an  epoch  in  the  progress  of  medical  instruction.  Within  the  past  ten  years,  however, 
phenomenal  advances  have  been  made.  The  Instituto  Medico  Sucre,  of  which  Dr.  Valentin 
Abecia  is  president,  has  achieved  fame  throughout  South  America  by  the  excellent  work  it 
has  accomplished,  especially  in  the  bacteriological  department.  When  the  terrible  epidemic 
of  smallpox  swept  over  Valparaiso  a year  ago  and  vaccine  was  sent  from  various  countries 
to  supply  the  urgent  demand,  it  was  found  that  the  quality  of  that  which  was  furnished 
by  the  Medical  Institute  of  Sucre  gave  the  most  uniform  and  satisfactory  results,  as  a letter 
of  thanks  from  the  Chilean  authorities  gratefully  acknowledged.  The  Instituto  Medico  Sucre 
has,  in  addition  to  its  well-equipped  bacteriological  laboratory,  a museum  of  anatomical 
specimens  and  models  which  is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  South  America.  Meteorology 
also  receives  attention,  an  office  having  been  established  for  observations  of  this  character  in 
the  same  building  as  that  occupied  by  the  Instituto  Medico  Sucre. 

The  theology  course,  which  is  given  in  all  the  universities,  is  one  that  has  occupied 
especial  attention  ever  since  the  establishment  of  the  first  colleges  in  Spanish  America.  Its 
graduates  have  been  counted  among  the  most  renowned  scholars,  as  well  as  the  most  gifted 
orators,  of  the  country.  The  seminaries  and  schools  devoted  to  education  in  theology  are 
among  the  important  institutions  of  secondary  and  professional  instruction.  At  the  recent 
celebration  in  honor  of  the  inauguration  of  the  new  edifice  of  the  Seminario  Conciliar  de 
San  Geronimo  in  La  Paz,  the  purpose  of  this  class  of  schools  was  eloquently  set  forth  in  a 


PATIO  OF  PICHINCHA  COLLEGE,  POTOSI. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS— SYSTEMS  OF  INSTRUCTION 


197 


brilliant  address  by  the  visiting  papal  legate,  Monsignor  Alexandre  Bavona,  who  described 
the  Seminario  as  the  place  “where  those  aspiring  to  the  priesthood  could  educate  themselves 
in  meditation  and  study,  make  themselves  docile  by  obedience,  become  transfigured  by 
humility,  and  acquire  that  spiritual  energy  which  will  be  an  armor  in  the  hard  struggle  of 
the  ministry,  to  the  end  that,  under  the  guardianship  of  virtue,  they  may  penetrate  that 
holy  of  holies,  the  conscience,  and  make  fruitful  the'  precious  seeds  of  redemption.”  The 
Seminario  Conciliar,  the  oldest  college  in  La  Paz,  was  originally  founcied  in  1674,  under  the 
name  of  San  Gerdnimo,  by  a bishop  of  the  Franciscan  order,  though  it  was  later  submitted 
to  the  direction  of  the  Jesuits  for  many  years.  By  a decree  of  the  supreme  government, 
issued  in  1879,  the  college  was  placed  again  under  diocesan  authority,  and  installed  in  its 
present  locality.  Bishop  Calixto  Clavijo  reconstructed  the  college  at  his  own  cost,  estab- 
lishing six  classes  in  secondary  instruction  and  four  in  theology,  and  at  the  present  time  this 
is  one  of  the  best  institutions  of  learning  in  the  republic.  The  average  attendance  is  about 
three  hundred.  The  college  has  its  own  printing  press,  in  which  the  textbooks  and  other 
important  works  are  published,  a valuable  library,  and  a conservatory  of  religious  music.  It 
has  also  a handsome  chapel,  where  divine  services  are  held,  a universal  feature  of  the 
educational  institutions  of  Roman  Catholic  countries.  The  name  of  Bishop  Calixto  Clavijo  is 
perpetuated  in  one  of  the  most  successful  colleges  founded  in  Bolivia  within  the  past  twenty 
years.  In  1881  Bishop  Clavijo  sent  to  Lima  for  the  Jesuits  to  come  to  La  Paz  and  establish 
a college  of  secondary  instruction,  which  was  inaugurated  in  1883  under  the  direction  of  Padre 
Antonio  Perez,  and  with  the  title  of  Colegio  San  Calixto.  The  house  which  had  once  been 
the  residence  of  General  Santa  Cruz  was  purchased  for  the  college,  and  since  that  time,  little 
by  little,  neighboring  properties  have  been  acquired  and  new  additions  built  to  the  original 
structure,  until  now  the  college  is  a handsome  edifice  of  three  stories,  with  modern  installa- 
tions, well  ventilated,  and  provided  with  everything  required  for  the  educational  purposes  of 
the  institution.  Acetylene  gas  is  manufactured  in  the  college  for  lighting.  The  attendance 
for  1906  was  four  hundred  and  fifty,  including  both  boarding  and  day  pupils.  The  instruc- 
tion given  embraces  three  years  of  preparatory  work,  six  years  of  intermediate,  and  three 
commercial  courses,  if  desired.  The  present  director  of  the  college  is  a distinguished  scholar 
and  linguist,  speaking  English  and  other  languages  with  fluency.  Not  only  in  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  Colegio  Seminario  and  the  Colegio  San  Calixto  is  the  energy  of  Bishop  Clavijo 
in  behalf  of  education  to  be  noted:  to  his  effort  is  also  due  the  existence  of  the  Colegio 
de  los  Sagrados  Corazones,  which  he  founded  in  1883,  bringing  twenty  nuns  from  Europe 
at  his  own  cost  to  direct  the  school.  In  addition  to  the  subjects  usually  taught  in  convent 
schools,  such  as  embroidery,  languages,  music,  and  composition,  the  pupils  are  instructed  in 
hygiene,  natural  history,  physics,  and  kindred  subjects,  and  are  trained  to  become  teachers. 
Many  young  girls  of  the  best  families  come  from  the  various  cities  of  the  republic  to  attend 
this  college,  which  has  also  free  classes  for  the  education  of  girls  of  all  grades  of  society. 

Under  the  head  of  special  instruction  the  military  schools  of  the  republic  are  included, 
the  Colegio  Militar  of  La  Paz,  the  Escuela  de  Gases,  and  the  Academia  de  Guerra.  In 


198 


BOLIVIA 


consequence  of  the  recent  military  reorganization  of  the  country,  public  interest  has  been 
stimulated  regarding  the  national  defence,  and  military  instruction  has  received  a marked 

impetus.  One  of  the  purposes  of  the  govern- 
ment in  paying  especial  attention  to  this  branch 
of  national  education,  aside  from  its  military 
importance,  is  to  promote  athletic  training  and 
encourage  the  self-control  and  endurance  which 
are  developed  under  systematic  discipline.  In 
the  Colegio  Militar  calisthenic  drills  are  prac- 
tised daily,  the  extensive  grounds  of  the  college 
being  especially  suited  to  such  exercises.  Tar- 
get practice  is  provided  for  in  a spacious  poly- 
gon, the  finest  of  its  kind  in  Bolivia,  which  was 
constructed  by  the  order  of  General  Pando 
during  his  term  of  office  as  chief  executive. 

In  a country  which  owes  its  chief  wealth 
to  the  products  of  mining,  it  is  natural  that  the 
system  of  educaf  on  should  include  instruction 
in  mining  and  metallurgy,  and  the  present  gov- 
ernment has  recently  established  colleges  for 
this  purpose  in  Oruro  and  Potosi,  under  the 
direction  of  expert  mining  engineers  and  metal- 
lurgists. In  the  historic  building  of  the  Mint 
the  Potosi  School  of  Mines  has  its  classes,  in 
rooms  spacious  and  well  lighted,  under  domes  thirty-four  feet  high,  and  protected  by  walls 
of  massive  solidity.  The  Oruro  School  of  Mines  was  inaugurated  by  the  minister  of  public 
instruction  on  February  8, 1906.  The  director  of  this  school,  Senor  A.  F.  Umlauff,  is  opf  mistic 
regarding  its  future,  believing  that  the  government  will  be  fully  recompensed,  in  results 
which  can  be  foreseen  from  the  beginning,  for  the  efforts  that  are  being  made  to  establish 
this  school  on  a sound  basis,  even  at  great  expense.  As  it  is  not  yet  a year  since  the  college 
was  opened,  the  course  of  studies  has  not  been  perfected,  but  it  will  include  mathematics 
and  natural  science  as  preparatory  to  later  studies  of  a more  specific  character. 

The  principal  industrial  schools  of  Bolivia,  called  esciielas  dc  artes  y oftcios,  are  under 
the  management  of  the  Salesian  brotherhood  of  Don  Bosco,  who  have  colleges  all  over  the 
world.  In  New  York  and  Troy,  in  the  United  States,  these  schools  have  an  extensive 
patronage,  and  in  all  South  American  capitals  they  are  established  on  a successful  basis. 
Buenos  Aires  has  six  of  these  schools;  Brazil,  Chile,  and  Peru  have  one  or  more  in  each  of 
their  larger  cities:  Sucre  has  one;  and  La  Paz  considers  the  Escuela  Don  Bosco  as  a most 
important  factor  in  the  instruction  of  the  working  classes,  particularly  as  the  system  of 
teaching  trades  is  effective  and  practical.  The  original  founder  of  the  schools,  Don  Bosco, 


SENOR  DR.  RODOLFO  SORIA  GALVARRO,  RECTOR  OF 
THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  ORURO. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS— SYSTEMS  OF  INSTRUCTION 


199 


lived  in  Turin,  Italy,  from  1815"  to  1888.  The  Don  Bosco  college  of  La  Paz  has  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  pupils,  ■ who  are  engaged  in  practising  some  industrial  art  or  trade, 
such  as  printing,  bookbinding,  shoemaking,  tailoring,  iron  work,  mosaic  work,  etc.  The 
mosaics  in  the  floors  of  the  principal  public  buildings  of  La  Paz  were  made  by  the  pupils  of 
the  Don  Bosco  school.  They  study  music  and  have  a band  of  forty  pieces.  Frequently, 
concerts  are  given  by  them  in  the  city.  The  Colegio  Don  Bosco  was  established  in  1896, 
and  has  continued  to  show  an  increase  in  attendance  every  year.  The  director  of  the  La  Paz 
school  is  Dr.  Jose  M.  Reyneri,  who  takes  great  pride,  and  with  reason,  in  the  excellent  work 
of  his  classes.  In  bookbinding  the  school  can  present  the  highest  examples  of  the  tooling 
art.  The  college  occupies  an  area  of  twenty  thousand  square  metres  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  bordering  the  picturesque  avenues  of  the  Alameda.  Its  schoolrooms  are  spacious  and 
airy,  and  the  playgrounds  particularly  well  laid  out.  Schools  of  agriculture  and  commercial 
colleges  flourish  under  the  present  government,  which  sees  in  these  institutions  the  realiza- 
tion of  plans  for  development  in  the  departments  of  national  progress  wliich  have  formerly 
been  neglected. 

The  minister  of  instruction,  in  addition  to  the  supervision  which  his  department  exer- 
cises over  the  institutions  of  education,  is  also  in  charge  of  the  interests  of  national  culture 
as  it  is  represented  in  the  public  libraries,  museums,  archives,  and  scientific  societies  of  the 
country.  In  1838,  General  Santa  Cruz  ordered  the  installation  of  public  libraries  in  all  the 
departmental  capitals,  the  principal  ones  being  now  in  Sucre  and  La  Paz.  The  Arcliivo 
Nacional  is  preserved  in  Sucre,  and  is  said  to  be  tlie  most  complete  historical  record  in 
possession  of  any  South  American  country.  The  Colegio  Nacional  and  the  Convent  of 
San  Francisco  in  Tarija  have  libraries  of  historic  value,  numbering  about  ten  thousand 
volumes.  In  La  Paz,  the  convents  of  San  Francisco  and  the  Recoleta  have  together  about 
nine  thousand  volumes.  The  Seminario,  the  University,  and  the  Colegio  de  Abogados,  or 
law  college,  have  fairly  good  libraries.  The  library  of  the  Oficina  Nacional  de  Inmigracion  y 
Estadistica  contains  nearly  ten  thousand  volumes,  and  the  geographic  societies  of  Sucre  and 
La  Paz  have  valuable  collections  of  books  and  pamphlets. 

Bolivia  is  in  the  transition  period  of  educational  development,  showing  the  influences 
both  of  past  conditions  and  present  aspirations,  and  it  would  not  be  fair  to  the  present 
educational  outlook  to  give,  as  indicative  of  existing  conditions,  the  statistics  that  have  been 
collected  under  a system  of  instruction  entirely  inadequate  to  the  needs  of  a progressive 
people.  The  last  statement  of  the  Oficina  Nacional  de  Inmigracion,  Estadistica  y Propa- 
ganda Geografica,  published  six  years  ago,  shows  that  only  about  three  hundred  thousand 
out  of  the  entire  population  can  read  and  write;  but  when  it  is  considered  that  this  number 
is  equivalent  to  the  population  of  unmixed  European  descent,  it  may  be  presumed  that  the 
illiteracy  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  Indians  and  uiesfi{os.  The  sparsely  settled  country, 
the  difficulties  of  intercommunication,  inherited  tendencies  to  look  upon  education  as  a 
right  of  privileged  classes  alone,  have  delayed  progress  in  this  direction,  and  the  reforms 
which  have  recently  been  inaugurated  in  behalf  of  a broad  national  education  require 


200 


BOLIVIA 


resolute  determination  to  make  them  effective,  especially  in  regions  so  remotely  situated 
as  are  some  of  the  interior  school  districts  of  Bolivia.  But  it  is  hoped  that  improved 
systems  of  communication  will  aid  in  bringing  all  sections  within  more  accessible  limits, 
and  will  contribute  to  facilitate  the  general  efforts  toward  development.  The  vigor  of  a 
new  intellectual  force  is  apparent  in  the  reorganization  of  public  instruction ; and  a growing 
sense  of  the  possibilities  of  national  culture  is  bringing  about  a combined  effort  of  the 
whole  people  toward  a realization  of  higher  intellectual  ideals. 


PATIO  OF  JUNI'N  college,  SUCRE. 


. 


PUENTE  SUCRE,  A BRIDGE  OVER  THE  PILCOMAYO  RIVER,  CONNECTING  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  SUCRE  WITH  THAT  OF  POTOSi. 


CHAPTER  XII 


A NEW  ERA  FOR  BOLIVIA— IMPORTANT  PUBLIC  WORKS— RAILWAYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


C‘ 


OVERING  an  area  of  about  seven  hundred 
thousand  square  miles,  and  presenting  a 
variety  of  geograpldc  and  geologic  conditions  un- 
surpassed hy  any  other  country  of  the  globe,  the 
problem  of  transportation,  upon  the  satisfactory 
solution  of  which  so  much  depends  in  the  promo- 
tion of  national  progress  in  any  country,  has  been 
one  of  paramount  importance  in  Bolivian  politics 
ever  since  the  organization  of  the  republic.  Large 
sums  have  been  paid  by  the  government  for  the 
improvement  of  roads,  the  building  of  bridges,  and 
the  maintenance  of  communication  between  the 
principal  cities,  but  the  country's  finances  have 
always  been  taxed  to  the  limit  by  efforts  which 
proved  more  or  less  inadequate  to  the  task,  with 
the  result  that  although  the  budget  continually 
shows  large  amounts  spent  in  roadways  and 
bridges,  the  problem  of  transportation  in  Bolivia 
is  only  now,  for  the  frst  time,  giving  promise  of 
a satisfactory  solution.  There  are,  nevertheless,  evidences  of  excellent  road  building  on 
all  the  principal  highways,  especially  those  connecting  the  departmental  capitals,  and  in 
some  instances,  as  along  the  route  from  Sucre  to  Potosi,  and  in  the  environs  of  Cocha- 
bamba, massive  stone  parapets  and  bridges  are  seen,  which  compare  favorably  with  the 
best  examples  of  work  done  by  expert  engineers  in  this  branch  of  construction  in  any 
part  of  the  world.  But  nearly  all  the  highroads  pass  through  the  canons  of  the  Cordilleras 
in  some  part  of  their  course,  and  during  the  rainy  season,  from  November  to  March,  a flood 

frequently  rushes  down  these  qucbnidds  with  such  destructive  force  that  every  vestige  of 

203 


PUENTE  SUCRE,  LOOKING  FROM  THE  SUCRE  END 
OF  THE  BRIDGE  TO  THE  POTOSf  TERMINUS. 


204 


BOLiyiA 


road  building  is  swept  away  in  a day.  For  this  reason,  wagon  roads  are  abandoned  during 
the  wet  months  and  all  travel  in  the  interior  is  done  on  muleback,  usually  by  a route  more 
precipitous  than  the  coach  road,  but  safer  because  it  passes  chiefly  along  the  higher  ledges, 
with  only  an  occasional  descent  into  the  bed  of  the  canon.  As  stated  elsewhere,  the  only 
railways  now  in  operation  are  the  lines  connecting  La  Paz  with  Guaqui,  on  Lake  Titicaca, 
and  Oruro  with  the  seaport  of  Antofagasta,  though  surveys  have  been  made  and  the  work 
of  construction  has  commenced  on  a new  railway  system,  which  will  completely  change 
industrial  and  commercial  conditions  in  Bolivia. 

The  history  of  railroad  building  in  Bolivia  dates  from  the  year  1887,  when  the  govern- 
ment issued  a decree  calling  for  proposals  for  the  construction  of  railways  throughout  the 
republic.  The  following  year  a proposal  was  received  from  the  mining  company  Huanchaca 
de  Bolivia  to  build  a railroad  from  the  Chilean  frontier  to  the  city  of  Oruro,  passing  by  the 
mining  establishment  of  Huanchaca.  The  national  Congress  approved  the  proposal,  with 
slight  modifications,  in  a decree  issued  on  November  29,  1888.  The  rights  acquired  by  the 
company  were  transferred  the  next  year  to  the  Antofagasta  and  Bolivia  Railway  Company, 
Limited,  an  English  corporation,  which  now  operates  the  line.  This  company  has  a guarantee 
from  the  government  of  six  per  cent  per  annum  for  twenty  years  on  the  capital  invested  in  the 
construction  of  the  line,  which  guarantee  became  effective  on  the  delivery  of  the  railway  at 
Oruro  on  May  17, 1892,  amounting  to  forty-five  thousand  pounds  sterling,  though  this  is  only 
nominal  so  far  as  the  Bolivian  government  is  concerned,  the  revenues  derived  from  the  line 
more  than  covering  the  guarantee.  The  railway  is  five  hundred  and  fifty-five  miles  long,  from 
Antofagasta  to  Oruro,  and  ascends  from  about  twenty  feet  above  sea  level  at  Antofagasta  to 
more  than  twelve  thousand  feet,  crossing  the  high  plateau  from  Uyuni  to  Oruro  with  little 
variation  from  its  greatest  altitude.  It  is  the  longest  single  line  track  in  the  world  of  such  a 
narrow  gauge,  only  two  feet  six  inches  wide,  throughout  its  entire  length.  The  Huanchaca 
company  owns  and  operates  for  its  exclusive  benefit  a branch  road  from  Uyuni  to  Pulacayo 
and  Huanchaca,  the  centre  of  its  mining  industry,  nine  miles  distant.  The  Bolivian  section 
of  the  Antofagasta  and  Oruro  railway  is  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Hugh  Warren,  a railroad 
manager  of  large  experience  and  mature  judgment.  He  has  his  headquarters  at  Oruro,  the 
present  Bolivian  terminus  of  the  road.  The  line  will  soon  be  extended  to  La  Paz.  Passenger 
trains  leave  Oruro  every  day  for  Challapata  and  Uyuni,  and  three  times  a week  for  Antofa- 
gasta. They  run  at  an  average  speed  of  twenty-five  miles  an  hour,  the  entire  trip  having 
frequently  been  made,  on  a special  through  train,  in  twenty-three  hours.  The  roadbed  is 
excellent,  and  the  maximum  gradient  does  not  exceed  two  and  ninety-eight  one  hundredths 
per  cent.  The  locomotives  are  of  American  manufacture,  from  the  Baldwin,  the  Rodgers, 
and  the  Stevenson  locomotive  works.  The  passenger  cars  are  modern,  well  built  and  ex- 
tremely comfortable.  The  scenery  along  this  road  is  magnificent,  and  some  of  the  bridges 
which  cross  the  great  ravines  are  counted  among  the  highest  in  the  world.  The  construction 
work  of  this  road  was  done  under  the  direction  of  an  English  engineer  of  eminent  talent, 
Mr.  Josiah  Harding,  who  built  one  of  the  greatest  incline  railways  of  the  world  at  Junin, 


PUBLIC  M^ORKS—RAILIV^YS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


205 


Chile,  and  who  is  now  engaged  in  studying  the  route  of  the  proposed  Arica  and  La  Paz 
railway.  From  Uyuni  to  La  Paz,  the  traveller  seems  to  be  always  within  close  distance  of 
the  snow-covered  summits  of  the  Andes,  which  rise  above  the  horizon  of  the  high  plain  like 
great  white  temples  overtopping  the  clouds.  As  seen  from  the  car  window,  the  mining 
towns  of  Poopo  and  Machacamarca,  and  others  which  lie  along  the  route,  present  a very 
picturesque  appearance.  But  the  beautiful  scenery  of  this  road  hardly  surpasses  that  of  the 
railway  from  La  Paz  to  Guaqui,  on  Lake  Titicaca,  which  has  in  view  the  majestic  Illimani 
and  Sorata  and  a whole  range  of  lesser  peaks  clothed  in  perpetual  snow. 

The  Guaqui  and  La  Paz  railroad  was  the  first  constructed  by  the  Bolivian  government 
out  of  public  funds.  Its  successful  inauguration  was  due  to  the  initiative  of  ex- President 


RAILWAY  STATION  OF  PULACAYO.  HUANCHACA  MINES. 


General  Jose  Manuel  Pando,  who,  in  1900,  authorized  an  expert  Bolivian  engineer,  Sehor 
Mariano  Bustamente  y Barreda,  to  make  the  necessary  studies  and  plans.  When  these 
were  finished,  they  were  approved  by  Congress:  and  a law  was  passed  in  the  same 
year,  authorizing  the  construction  of  the  road  and  appointing  a board  of  directors  to 
supervise  its  management.  In  order  to  meet  the  expenses  of  building,  it  was  provided 
that  all  revenues  from  the  alcohol  monopoly  and  from  rubber  taxes  in  the  department 
of  La  Paz  should  be  set  aside  for  three  years  for  this  purpose.  The  line  was  com- 
pleted and  opened  to  traffic  on  October  25',  1903.  Its  total  length  is  fifty-nine  miles, 
from  the  port  of  Guaqui  to  the  Altos,  or,  more  correctly,  to  El  Alto  de  La  Paz,  the  road 
ascending  from  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  feet  at  Guaqui  to  fourteen  thousand  feet 


2o6 


BOLIVIA 


at  Viacha  and  descending  not  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  to  El  Alto  station.  The 
gauge  is  three  and  one-third  feet  wide,  and  throughout  the  entire  distance  the  tracks  cross 
what  appears  to  be  almost  a level  plateau,  with  Lake  Titicaca  behind  and  the  wonderful 
white  mountain  peaks  in  front  glistening  in  the  sun.  The  total  cost  of  the  line,  including 
interest  during  its  construction,  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  nine 
hundred  and  eighty-one  pounds  sterling.  On  May  31,  1904,  a contract  was  signed  by  the 
government  with  the  Peruvian  Corporation,  Limited,  which  owns  and  operates  the  Southern 
Railway  of  Peru  from  the  port  of  Mollendo  to  Lake  Titicaca,  as  well  as  the  lake  steamers 
that  cross  from  the  Peruvian  border  to  the  Bolivian  port  of  Guaqui,  the  terms  of  the  treaty 
giving  to  the  Peruvian  Corporation  control  and  administration  of  the  railway  under  a seven 
years’  lease,  thereby  affording  it  a through  system  of  transportation  from  Mollendo  to 
La  Paz.  The  corporation  loaned  the  government  fifty  thousand  pounds  sterling  at  six  per 
cent  interest,  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  an  electric  car  line  to  connect  El  Alto  de  La  Paz 
with  the  city,  and  in  addition  to  this  sum  the  government  recognizes  a previous  indebted- 
ness of  about  twenty  thousand  pounds  sterling,  all  of  which  will  be  charged  against  an 
amortization  fund  of  forty  per  cent  to  be  reserved  from  the  revenues  of  the  railway,  the 
corporation  retaining  sixty  per  cent  of  the  railway  revenues  for  operating  expenses  during 
the  term  of  its  lease.  If  at  the  end  of  seven  years  the  total  obligation  has  not  been  covered 
by  this  amortization  fund,  the  government  agrees  to  extend  the  lease  or  pay  the  balance. 

The  history  of  this  railway  during  the  three  years  that  it  has  been  in  operation  is  one 
of  continued  and  increasing  prosperity.  It  has  been  a paying  investment  from  the  first, 
never  having  yielded  less  than  seven  per  cent  dividends  since  its  inauguration.  Statistics 
furnished  by  the  acting  director  of  public  works  of  Bolivia,  Mr.  Pierce  Hope,  under  whose 
management  the  road  was  finally  completed,  show  that  the  receipts  for  the  month  of 
January,  1906,  were  sixty-four  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty  bolivianos.  The  increase 
in  the  freight  receipts  of  190^  was  fifty  per  cent  over  the  year  previous.  The  electric  line 
from  El  Alto  terminal  down  the  incline,  or  La  Bajada,  to  the  city  station  of  Challapampa  was 
completed  and  opened  to  traffic  on  December  i,  190^  It  is  five  miles  long,  and  has  the 
same  gauge  as  the  main  line  from  Guaqui,  with  a grade  of  six  per  cent.  The  locomotives 
used  on  the  railway  and  the  electric  cars  for  the  incline  were  purchased  in  the  United  States. 
The  revenue  from  traffic  over  this  part  of  the  line  for  the  month  of  January,  1906,  was 
fourteen  thousand  four  hundred  and  eighty  bolivianos.  The  trip  from  Guaqui  to  the  city 
takes  about  two  hours,  and  will  no  doubt  be  a feature  of  one  of  the  famous  tourist  routes 
of  the  world  some  day.  Not  only  does  it  offer  the  grandest  scenery  on  the  picturesque 
road  from  Mollendo  to  La  Paz,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  routes  in  the  world,  but  it  possesses 
especial  interest  in  the  wonderful  ruins  of  Tiahuanaco,  which  are  situated  at  about  an  hour’s 
ride  from  Lake  Titicaca.  It  affords  also  the  novel  experience  of  travelling  by  rail  and 
steamer  above  the  clouds  and  of  enjoying  a trolley  ride  down  La  Bajada  to  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  foreign-looking  cities  in  America,  La  Paz,  standing  radiant  in  the  sunlight  just 
below  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Andes. 


PUBLIC  PUORKS—RAILIVAYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


207 


But  though  the  railways  from  Antofagasta  to  Oruro  and  from  Mollendo  to  La  Paz  take 
the  tourist  through  wonderful  and  varied  scenes,  a more  rapid  route  is  being  built  in  the 
new  railway  from  Arica  to  La  Paz,  which  will  bring  the  metropolis  of  the  Altaplanicie  within 
fourteen  hours  of  the  coast,  instead  of  three  days,  the  time  now  required  by  the  most  rapid 
route.  Chile  has  already  begun  the  construction  of  the  Arica  and  La  Paz  line  in  accordance 
with  the  recent  treaty  between  the  two  countries.  It  will  pass  through  the  rich  copper 
region  of  Corocoro,  thus  facilitating  the  shipment  of  the  valuable  ores  of  this  district,  and 
will  connect  with  the  Guaqui  and  La  Paz  road  at  Viacha.  Either  Corocoro  or  Viacha  will 
be  the  junction  of  a line  which  is  proposed  to  connect  La  Paz  with  Oruro,  in  conformity 
with  the  arrangements  made  by  the  government  for  the  construction  of  a general  railway 
system.  A decree  passed  by  the 
national  Congress  on  November  13, 

1907,  shows  that  the  government  has 
determined  to  carry  into  immediate 
effect  extensive  plans  for  railway  ex- 
pansion, some  of  which  have  been 
under  consideration  from  time  to  time 
during  previous  administrations,  but 
have  never  until  now  been  practically 
developed  to  the  degree  necesshry  for 
their  successful  consummation.  The 
decree  referred  to  declares:  that  the 
executive  is  authorized  to  contract  for 
and  execute  with  all  possible  simul- 
taneity the  construction  of  the  follow- 
ing railways:  from  Viacha  or  Corocoro 
to  Oruro,  from  Oruro  to  Cochabamba, 
from  Uyuni  to  Potosi,  from  Potosi  to 
Tupiza,  and  the  first  section  of  one 
hundred  miles  of  the  line  from  La 
Paz  to  Puerto  Pando,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Beni  branch  of 
the  Madeira  River,  employing  for  the 
purpose  the  funds  derived  from  the 
indemnity  paid  by  Brazil  and  the  guar- 
antees stipulated  in  the  treaty  of  peace 
celebrated  with  Chile.  The  executive 
is  equally  authorized  to  carry  out 

any  financial  operations  that  may  be  deemed  indispensable,  in  the  event  that  the  funds 
above  named  are  not  sufficient  for  the  construction  of  the  railways  indicated,  but  without 


CASCADE  ON  THE  PROPOSED  ROUTE  OF  THE  ARICA  AND 
LA  PAZ  RAILWAY. 


2o8 


BOLIVIA 


compromising  more  than  the  said  railways  in  the  responsibility  of  such  operations.  As 
soon  as  the  railways  above  cietermined  are  constructed,  the  following  lines  will  be  built: 

from  Oruro  to  Potosi,  from  Cochabamba  to  Chimore 
at  the  headwaters  of  the  Mamore  branch  of  the  Madeira, 
from  Macha  or  from  Potosi  to  Sucre,  and  the  second 
section  of  the  railway  from  La  Paz  to  Puerto  Pando. 
For  the  construction  of  the  railway  from  La  Paz  to  Puerto 
Pando  the  funds  derived  from  the  increased  tax  on  coca 
will  also  be  employed,  as  the  object  of  this  road  is  to 
serve  the  interests  of  the  coca  producing  region. 

For  the  construction  of  the  proposed  new  railways 
the  Bolivian  government  has  already  completed  negotia- 
tions with  the  well-known  firm  of  New  York  capitalists, 
Messrs.  Speyer  and  Company,  whereby,  in  conformity 
with  the  decree  of  Congress,  a general  system  of  rail- 
ways will  be  built,  to  connect  the  principal  Bolivian 
cities  with  one  another,  with  the  chief  river  ports  of  the 
Amazon  and  the  Paraguay,  and  with  such  railways  of 
neighboring  republics  as  have  a direct  seaport  terminus. 
By  this  practical  method  the  country  will  be  opened  up  to  industrial  and  commercial  develop- 
ment, which  could  never  be  hoped  for  under  existing  circumstances,  as  the  obstacles  to 
communication  presented  by  the  mountainous  character  of  western  Bolivia  and  the  unsettled 
conditions  of  eastern  Bolivia  are  apparently  insurmountable  by  any  other  means  than  the 
establishment  of  railway  connection.  The  importance  of  this  enterprise  on  the  part  of  the 
government  can  hardly  be  estimated.  It  means  practically  the  launching  of  Bolivia  into 
the  full  tide  of  modern  progress,  with  no  turning  back  to  the  old  ways  of  mulehack  travel 
and  other  seventeenth-century  systems  of  transportation.  When  the  interior  becomes  more 
accessible  through  a regularly  established  schedule  of  trains,  which  will  bring  the  chief  cities 
within  a few  hours  of  one  another  and  within  a reasonable  distance  from  the  seacoast,  the 
rapid  evolution  of  industrial  activity  will  no  doubt  see  the  building  up  of  many  large  fortunes 
in  the  rich  mining  districts,  on  the  vast  cattle  plains,  and  in  the  farming  communities,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  inexhaustible  possibilities  of  the  rubber  country.  Foreigners  are  not  slow  to 
appreciate  this  fact.  As  soon  as  it  became  known  that  Bolivia  intended  to  spend  millions 
of  pounds  sterling  in  the  construction  of  railways,  not  only  railway,  mining,  and  rubber 
syndicates  began  to  seek  larger  investments  than  formerly,  but  new  enterprises,  involving 
the  development  of  cattle  raising  and  other  neglected  industries,  turned  in  this  direction, 
and  the  outlook  is  already  growing  brighter  than  it  has  ever  been  before  in  the  history 
of  the  country. 

For  more  than  a year  active  preliminary  work  has  been  in  progress  throughout  the 
entire  route  of  the  proposed  system,  at  first  under  the  direction  of  an  American  engineer. 


CUT  IN  THE  RAILWAY  DECLINE  BETWEEN 
GUAQUI  AND  LA  PAZ. 


PUBLIC  IVORKS—PAILIVAYS—TELEGPAPH  LINES 


209 


Mr.  W.  L.  Sisson,  and  then  under  his  successor,  Mr.  W.  L.  Gibson,  who  is  the  present  directing 
engineer  of  the  enterprise.  Sehor  Jorge  E.  Zalles,  as  secretary  of  the  Commission  of  Studies, 
has  made  liimself  master  of  every  detail  connected  with  the  work.  Surveys  have  been 
completed  between  Viacha  and  Oruro,  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles;  Oruro  and 
Cochabamba,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles;  Uyuni  and  Potosi,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles;  Potosi  and  Tupiza,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles;  Oruro  and  Potosi,  one  hundred  and 
ninety-five  miles.  By  an  examination  of  the  map  it  will  be  seen  that,  in  the  extensive 
system  proposed,  railway  communication  will  be  established,  through  Bolivian  territory, 
between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  seaboards,  and,  by  means  of  the  great  Amazon  and  La  Plata 
river  systems,  with  the  whole  vast  region  of  eastern  South  America.  Argentina  has  been 
authorized  to  extend  her  Central  Northern  Railway  as  far  as  Tupiza;  and  as  soon  as  Bolivia 
completes  her  lines  from  Tupiza  to  Potosi,  from  Potosi  to  Oruro,  from  Oruro  to  Viacha,  and 
from  Viacha  to  Arica,  there  will  be  established  a trunk  line  across  the  continent  which  will 
bring  the  Pacific  port  of  Arica  within  five  days’  distance  of  Buenos  Aires.  By  extending 
north  to  Santa  Cruz  the  branch  line  now  under  construction  from  the  Argentine  Northern 
Central  Railway  to  the  Bolivian  border  at  Yacuiba,  and  by  building  another  line  to  Santa 
Cruz  from  the  Paraguay  River  at  Puerto  Suarez,  opposite  the  Brazilian  port  of  Corumba, 
over  a route  which  has  already  been  reconnoitred  and  approved,  both  lines  to  be  joined  and 
pushed  on  further  to  a river  port  of  the  Beni,  an  easy  outlet  will  be  gained  for  the  whole  of 
eastern  Bolivia,  and  the  flourishing  capital  of  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz  will  c]uickly  develop 
into  the  Chicago  of  what  may  some  day  be  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  and  cattle-raising 
countries  in  the  world.  Eastern  Bolivia 
presents  no  such  difficult  problems  of 
railway  construction  as  the  western 
part  of  the  republic,  and  the  lines 
projected  through  this  region  can  be 
completed  at  much  less  cost.  When 
the  various  South  American  continen- 
tal lines  are  joined  to  cross  Bolivian 
territory,  this  country,  which  has  been 
most  difficult  of  access  up  to  the  pres- 
ent time,  will  become  the  great  central 
highway  for  South  American  traffic, 
increasing  in  commercial  importance 
as  its  own  trade  with  other  nations  is 
developed  with  greater  facility. 

The  formal  inauguration  of  the 
new  railway  system  took  place  in 
Oruro  on  July  4,  1906,  when  the  supreme  government  went  in  a body  to  Oruro  to  initiate 
the  work  of  construction  from  that  point.  It  was  an  occasi(m  of  general  rejoicing,  all  patriotic 


SCENE  ON  THE  GUAQUI  AND  LA  PAZ  RAILWAY. 


2 10 


BOLIVIA 


Bolivians  recognizing  the  important  significance  of  the  ceremony,  which  was  brilliant  and 
imposing.  The  programme  of  the  day  was  worthy  of  so  memorable  an  occasion,  being 
distinguished  by  impressive  solemnity.  The  ceremonies  began  with  the  celebration  of  the 
Te  Deiim  in  the  cathedral  at  nine  o’clock.  His  Grace  Archbishop  Pifferi  officiated,  assisted 
by  high  dignitaries  of  the  church.  The  president  of  the  republic,  accompanied  by  his  min- 
isters of  state  and  the  foreign  diplomatic  corps,  attended  the  service,  at  which  were  present 
important  government  authorities  from  every  city  of  Bolivia.  The  learned  archbishop  of 
La  Plata,  in  pronouncing  a benediction  upon  the  great  work,  alluded  in  gracious  terms  to 
“the  cooperation  of  the  generous  inhabitants  of  North  America’’  in  the  new  enterprise,  and 
paid  a high  tribute  to  the  progressive  spirit  manifested  by  President  Montes  and  his  min- 
isters, to  whom  its  successful  inauguration  was  due,  praying  that  the  earthly  blessings  to  be 
derived  from  its  material  benefits  “may  serve  as  a motive  and  stimulus  to  elevate  the 
thoughts  to  the  incomparable,  unlimited,  and  eternal  riches  of  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven.’’ 
After  the  benediction.  President  Montes  received  at  the  hands  of  Sehor  Francisco  Lopez 
Chavez,  the  Bolivian  representative  of  the  construction  company,  a handsome  silver  shovel, 
which  was  presented  to  his  excellency  with  an  appropriate  address.  In  a firm  voice,  which 
thrilled  the  vast  audience  by  its  magnetic  eloquence.  President  Montes  made  the  address  of 
inauguration,  which  was  characterized  throughout  by  sentiments  of  practical  patriotism, 
expressed  in  such  sentences  as:  “The  greatness  and  strength  of  nations  is  not  proved  by 
declaiming  ideals  and  aspirations  which  they  have  neither  the  knowledge  nor  the  energy  to 
realize,  but  by  the  degree  of  effective  force  which  is  exercised  in  a practical  way  in  the 
civilization  and  exaltation  of  mankind.’’  In  closing,  his  excellency  applied  to  the  present 
act  the  famous  prophecy  of  Pedro  Domingo  Murillo,  with  a slight  variation:  “The  initial 
step  made  to-day  toward  the  resurrection  of  Bolivia  shall  never  be  detained.’’  The  Act  of 
Inauguration  was  signed  with  a gold  pen,  presented  to  the  president  by  Dr.  Isaac  Aranibar, 
ex-prefect  of  Cochabamba,  in  the  name  of  “ La  Patria.”  The  president  turned  the  first 
shovelful  of  earth  with  the  significant  words:  Oiic  d anihi  dd  caiidillajc  sea  reempla{ada  con 
d anna  del  trabajo — “May  the  arms  of  war  be  replaced  by  the  arms  of  labor.”  At  the 
official  banquet  which  closed  the  programme  of  the  day,  the  American  minister,  Hon.  Wm.  B. 
Sorsby,  in  an  eloquent  response  to  a toast  in  honor  of  his  country’s  anniversary,  referred 
to  “the  singularly  appropriate  coincidence  that  Bolivia  should  solemnize  the  inauguration 
of  her  industrial  independence  on  the  same  day  as  that  which  commemorates  the  political 
and  industrial  independence  of  the  first  American  republic.”  It  was,  indeed,  peculiarly  fitting 
that  a date  which  is  celebrated  the  world  over  as  the  anniversary  of  the  first  Declaration  of 
Independence  in  the  New  World  should  have  been  chosen  to  commemorate  an  event  which 
sets  the  seal  of  commercial  freedom  upon  a country  that  has  struggled  for  nearly  a century 
against  the  oppression  of  limited  trade  facilities.  The  Fourth  of  July  will  henceforth  signify 
to  the  B(divian  patriot  the  inauguration  of  a new  era  in  the  life  of  his  country,  an  era  not  less 
glorious  in  its  history  than  that  which  was  established  in  the  land  of  his  North  American 
cousin  on  July  4,  1776.  For  political  independence  can  do  little  toward  bringing  about 


PUBLIC  LVORKS—RAILM/AYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


21  I 


national  greatness  without  its  practical  counterpart,  commercial  independence;  and  national 
liberty  finds  its  highest  development  in  the  friendly  intercourse  of  countries  bound  together 
by  ties  of  mutual  interest.  It  commemorates  the  victory  of  a patriotic  people  determined 
to  reap  the  full  reward  of  national  independence;  and  it  marks  the  last  struggle  against 
conditions  that  belong  to  centuries  gone  by,  and  which  have  been  forever  overcome  by 
the  spirit  of  modern  enterprise. 

Until  the  new  railway  system  is  completed  and  put  in  operation,  Bolivia  will  continue 
to  depend  upon  the  present  means  of  transportation,  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  two 
railways  previously  mentioned,  is  altogether  by  wagons,  muleback,  or  river  navigation.  The 


DAM  AT  ACHACHALLA, 


Cordillera  Real,  or  Royal  range,  of  the  Andes  has  always  proved  an  effective  barrier  to  easy 
communication  between  the  Bolivian  plateau  and  the  great  eastern  plains,  with  their  wealth 
of  natural  production  awaiting  development,  and  the  few  mountain  passes  through  which 
wagon  roads  and  bridle  paths  have  been  opened  represent  herculean  efforts  to  overcome 
natural  conditions  with  limited  resources  at  command.  Public  highways  are  either  national 
or  municipal  property,  the  former  being  built  and  maintained  by  the  government  from 
appropriations  granted  by  Congress,  while  the  latter  are  made  and  controlled  by  the 
municipalities.  The  national  highroads  connect  the  principal  cities  and  mining  centres  of 
the  republic.  With  the  exception  of  the  main  roads,  which  unite  the  department  capitals. 


212 


BOLIVIA 


and  are  used  for  passenger  as  well  as  freight  service,  these  highways  chiefly  abound  in  the 
higher  sections  of  the  Andean  range,  where  the  valuable  mining  properties  are  located,  and 

they  are  nearly  all  narrow,  precipitous, 
winding  paths,  which  have  been  built 
up  by  Indian  labor  and  are  maintained 
at  great  cost.  Along  these  trails  the 
most  valuable  freight  is  taken  on  the 
backs  of  mules,  donkeys,  and  llamas, 
without  danger  even  to  the  most  costly 
and  delicate  ware,  so  careful  are  the 
Indians  of  their  charge.  Exquisite 
French  mirrors,  rare  bric-a-brac,  and 
the  finest  crystal  and  porcelains  for  the 
palatial  administration  houses,  are  car- 
ried across  a country  which  is  every- 
where broken  by  ravines,  and  over  a pathway  often  covered  by  an  avalanche  of  rocks 
from  the  mountain  sides  after  a heavy  rain,  yet  a long  month’s  journey  will  be  concluded 
without  the  record  of  a single  breakage,  so  marvellous  is  the  Indian’s  skill  in  this  humble 
task.  The  government  provides  postas,  or  sheltered  places,  at  intervals  of  from  eight  to 
f fteen  leagues,  where  travellers  may  rest  and  purchase  forage  for  their  animals.  The  posta 
is  in  charge  of  a government  employe,  who  is  paid  a reasonable  salary  to  take  care  of  the 
place,  to  keep  forage  on  hand  for  sale,  and  animals  for  hire,  as  well  as  to  provide  bed  and 
meals  at  a fair  price,  and  a post/Uoii  if  required  as  guide.  No  charge  is  made  for  the  use  of 
this  shelter.  It  is  the  custom  of  well-to-do  travellers  in  this  country  to  carry  their  own 
beds  and  provisions,  except  on  the  coach  roads.  Mules  can  be  hired  from  posfa  to  posta 
at  twenty  centavos,  about  nine  cents  in  gold,  for  each  mule  per  league,  and  ten  centavos 
per  league  for  the  postilion  who  accompanies  them.  The  house  in  which  shelter  is  provided 
is  usually  a low  solid  structure  of  adobe,  built  around  a courtyard,  or  patio,  and  having  from 
fve  to  ten  or  more  rooms,  each  with  a door  opening  on  the  courtyard  and  banks  of  adobe 
built  out  from  the  wall,  to  serve  as  beds.  It  has  no  windows.  Along  the  coach  roads  the 
houses  of  the  pastas  are  more  like  hotels,  and  the  traveller  may  journey  without  carrying 
either  food  or  provisions,  as  both  are  furnished  at  the  various  stopping  places.  The  coach 
roads  are  open  to  traffic  only  during  the  winter  months,  as  in  the  rainy  season  it  is  impos- 
sible to  keep  them  repaired  without  even  greater  expense  than  it  costs  to  build  a railroad, 
and  with  more  uncertain  results.  The  most  important  coach  roads  are:  from  La  Paz  to 
Oruro,  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles:  from  La  Paz  to  Corocoro,  seventy  miles:  from 
La  Paz  north  to  Achacachi,  sixty-six  miles;  from  Oruro  to  Cochabamba,  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles:  from  Challapata,  on  the  Antofagasta  Railway,  to  Sucre,  two  hundred  miles; 
from  Sucre  to  Potosi,  one  hundred  miles:  and  from  Uyuni  to  Potosi,  one  hundred  and  ten 
miles.  There  are  excellent  bridle  paths,  or,  as  they  are  called,  caniinos  de  Iieiradiira,  from 


TRAIN  ARRIVING  IN  GUAQUI  FROM  LA  PAZ. 


PUBLIC  PUORKS—PAILLVAYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


213 


Cochabamba  to  Sucre,  three  hundred  miles;  from  Potosi  to  Tarija  two  hundred  and  forty 
miles,  to  Tupiza  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  and  to  Challapata  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles;  from  Cochabamba  to  Santa  Cruz,  three  hundred  and  eighty  miles;  and  from  La  Paz 
to  the  various  towns  of  the  Yungas.  As  the  statements  vary  regarding  distances,  according  to 
the  humor  and  endurance  of  the  traveller,  and  the  exact  measurement  has  only  been  made 
in  a few  instances,  it  is  impossible  to  do  more  than  give  an  approximately  correct  idea  of  the 
locality  of  the  more  important  cities  as  regards  their  distance  from  one  another. 

Travel  in  eastern  and  northeastern  Bolivia  is  best  undertaken  at  the  season  of  the 
year  when  the  waterways  are  navigable,  as  nearly  all  routes  connecting  with  the  towns 
of  the  Beni  and  Santa  Cruz  necessitate  navigation  through  a great  part  of  the  distance. 
On  the  western  plateau  the  traveller  arranges  his  journey  for  the  winter  months,  to  avoid 
the  rainy  season,  but  in  eastern  Bolivia  the  summer  months  are  most  desirable  for  the  trip 
because  then  the  rivers  are  high,  and  navigation  is  an  easy  problem,  whereas  in  winter 
the  delays  are  sometimes  very  tedious  on  account  of  there  being  little  or  no  water  in  the 
upper  streams  of  the  great  river  systems.  All  the  branches  of  the  Amazon  River  are 
navigable,  some  of  them,  as  the  Acre,  Purus,  IVladre  de  Dios,  Beni,  Mamore,  and  Guapore, 
admitting  steam  launches  and  other  vessels  of  from  hve  to  six  feet  draft.  In  the  southeast. 


CARAVAN  OF  FREIGHT  ON  THE  ROAD  FROM  LA  PAZ  TO  ORURO. 


the  Paraguay  and  the  Pilcomayo  Rivers  are  navigable  for  vessels  of  two  hundred  tons. 
Lake  Titicaca  and  Lake  Poopo,  on  the  Altaplanicie,  are  both  navigable.  Lake  Titicaca  carries 


214 


BOLIVIA 


steamers  of  heavy  tonnage,  but  Lake  Poopo,  and  the  Desaguadero  River,  which  connects  it 
with  Lake  Titicaca,  are  navigable  only  for  lighter  vessels.  The  Desaguadero  River,  which  is 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  long,  is  navigable  for  steamers  of  five  hundred  tons  over  part 
of  its  length,  and  carries  good-sized  vessels  from  Lake  Titicaca  to  Lake  Poopo.  Communi- 
cation is  better  established,  both  by  land  and  water,  in  this  part  of  Bolivia  than  in  any 
other  seed  on. 

Closely  connected  with  the  various  systems  of  transportation  are  the  telegraph  lines  of 
the  country,  which  constitute  an  important  feature  of  intercommunication  by  serving  as  the 
means  of  determining  the  condition  of  roads  in  various  sections,  thus  making  it  possible  to 
keep  them  in  repair  and  to  promote  the  interests  of  traffic  generally.  The  director-general 
of  telegraphs,  Senor  Don  Carlos  Torrico,  has  made  a careful  study  of  the  telegraph  system, 
and  several  reforms  have  been  inaugurated  under  his  administration.  Senor  Torrico  has 
served  his  government  in  many  important  capacities,  having  been  Prefect  of  Potosi  prior  to 
accepting  his  present  office.  Under  his  able  direction  the  telegraph  system  has  not  only 
been  improved,  but  important  new  lines  have  been  put  in  operation  with  perfect  satisfaction. 
The  system  now  covers  an  extent  of  three  thousand  miles,  of  which  eight  hundred  miles 
are  under  private  ownership,  and  the  annual  receipts  have  increased  from  eighty-three 
thousand  bolivianos  in  1904  to  one  hundred  thousand  bolivianos  in  190^,  with  an  equal 
average,  about  one  hundred  and  ffty  thousand  each,  of  despatches  sent  and  received  from 
the  various  offices  of  the  republic.  These  offices  are  established  in  all  the  chief  cities  and 
along  the  principal  highways,  a long-distance  telephone  system  operating  in  connection  with 
the  telegraph;  so  that  more  remote  towns  have  communication  with  the  main  line.  An 
appropriation  has  been  asked  of  Congress  for  the  sum  of  one  hundred  and  forty-four 
thousand  bolivianos,  with  which  to  reorganize  and  repair  the  entire  system  and  to  place  it 
on  a more  efficient  basis.  The  international  telegraph  service  has  been  recently  improved 
by  the  extension  of  a line  from  Uyuni  to  Ollaglie,  in  Chile,  and  by  the  reconstruction  of  the 
existing  line  between  Tupiza  and  La  Quiaca,  in  Argentina.  Communication  with  Peru  is 
established  by  a telegraph  line  through  Guaqui,  controlled  by  the  Peruvian  Corporation. 
Connection  with  Europe  is  made  by  way  of  Argentina,  and  with  the  Pacific  and  North 
American  ports  through  Guaqui  or  by  Ollague  and  Antofagasta. 

A new  era  has  dawned  for  Bolivia.  It  comes  in  answer  to  the  abounding  faith  and 
unfailing  confidence  of  Bolivians  in  the  possibilities  of  their  country  and  in  their  persistent 
determination  and  indefatigable  efforts  to  overcome  all  obstacles  in  its  development.  To  the 
world  at  large,  ignorant  of  the  real  conditions  which  have  combined  to  militate  against 
progress  and  prosperity  in  this  country  of  unlimited  natural  wealth,  the  retarded  growth  in 
industrial  and  commercial  importance  which  statistics  seem  to  prove  can  hardly  be  fairly 
considered.  It  is  necessary  to  gain  accurate  knowledge  by  a visit  to  the  country  and  a study 
from  actual  observation,  as  well  as  from  information  to  be  secured  only  in  the  country  itself. 

Bolivia  is  not  so  far  away,  either  from  Europe  or  North  America,  as  many  people  im- 
agine. A very  pleasant  trip  may  be  arranged  to  Bolivia,  starting  from  European  ports  or 


PUBLIC  PUORKS—RAILLVAYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


215 


from  New  York,  on  one  of  the  commodious  steamers  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet 
Company  or  the  Hamburg-American  Line,  and  direct  from  New  York  by  a steamer  of  the 
Panama  Railroad  Steamship  Company,  all  of  which  make  the  trip  in  six  days  to  Colon.  The 
rapid  increase  in  the  earnings  of  these  lines  to  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  shows  the  growth 
of  interest  in  this  part  of  the  world,  and  a tendency  of  travel  to  turn  elsewhere  than  to 
Europe  and  Japan,  as  formerly,  especially  in  the  case  of  tourist  trade.  According  to  the 
latest  report  which  the  board  of  directors  of  the  Panama  Railroad  Company  made  to 
the  Isthmian  Commission, — the  United  States  government  now  being  sole  owner  of  the 
capital  stock  of  the  company, — this  route  is  rapidly  becoming  an  important  ocean  highway 


MOTORING  IN  THE  SUBURBS  OF  LA  PAZ. 


between  North  and  South  America,  destined  to  increase  the  social  as  well  as  political 
relations  between  countries  hitherto  more  widely  separated  than  those  of  any  other 
continents.  The  balmy  climate  of  the  southern  waters  makes  a trip  from  New  York  to 
Panama  an  additional  pleasure,  and  every  year  marks  an  increase  of  travel  over  this 
popular  route. 

After  a six  days’  trip,  including  many  charming  features,  the  traveller  may  spend  a few 
days  in  Colon  and  Panama,  enjoying  their  tropical  scenes  and  the  atmosphere  of  industrial 
activity  which  has  become  so  marked  since  the  inauguration  of  the  canal  construction,  or 
he  may  proceed  at  once  southward  on  one  of  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation 


BOLIVIA 


216 

Company,  or  of  the  SoutlT  American  Steamship  Company,  both  of  which  lines  have  com- 
fortable and  well-appointed  steamers,  from  Panama  to  Guayaquil,  Callao,  Mollendo,  Arica, 
Iquique,  Antofagasta,  Coquimbo,  Valparaiso,  and  other  South  American  ports.  The  Pacific 
Steam  Navigation  Company  has  its  head  offices  in  London,  with  its  chief  South  American 
office  in  Valparaiso,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  J.  W.  Pearson,  who  has  made  the  company’s 
line  to  Panama  as  commodious  and  desirable  a means  of  travel  as  an  ocean  voyage  can  be 
under  the  most  favorable  conditions.  Even  nervous  passengers  find  little  to  disturb  the 
pleasure  of  a trip  from  Panama  to  the  South  American  ports  as  far  as  Valparaiso,  for  the  sea 
is  nearly  always  as  smooth  as  glass  and  the  weather  superb.  From  four  to  five  days  are 
required  to  make  the  voyage  from  Panama  to  Guayaquil,  and  the  same  time  is  taken  from 
Guayaquil  to  Callao,  the  port  of  Lima,  Peru,  as  many  stops  are  made  along  the  route, 
though  direct,  fast  steamers  could  easily  make  the  trip  from  Panama  to  Callao  in  four  or 
five  days.  From  Callao  to  Mollendo  requires  from  three  to  four  days,  according  to  the 
delays  in  intermediate  ports.  To  the  traveller  making  his  first  trip  along  this  route  it  is 
particularly  interesting  to  watch  the  loading  and  unloading  of  fruits  and  other  products  of 
this  tropical  region.  Everything  is  brought  out  to  the  steamer  in  lanchas,  or  lighters,  and 
sometimes  the  harbor  swarms  with  purveyors  of  merchandise.  Disembarking  at  Mollendo 
to  go  to  Bolivia  by  what  constitutes  the  shortest  route,  at  least  until  the  Arica  and  La  Paz 
Railway  is  completed,  the  traveller  is  conveyed  by  train  over  the  Peruvian  Southern  Railway 
to  Arequipa,  a charming  old  city  situated  at  the  base  of  the  famous  volcano  Misti,  where  the 
University  of  Harvard  has  a meteorological  observatory.  Everyone  spends  a day  or  two  in 
Arequipa  before  proceeding  to  Puno,  the  terminus  of  the  road,  on  the  Peruvian  border  of 
Lake  Titicaca.  The  director  of  the  company,  Mr.  George  Clarke,  has  spared  no  effort  to 
improve  the  railway  facilities  of  this  line  and  to  provide  every  possible  comfort  for  those 
who  take  the  trip.  People  having  cardiac  troubles  may  suffer  a disagreeable  experience  for 
a short  time  while  crossing  the  greatest  altitude,  nearly  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 
But  the  recompense  is  great,  the  scenery  being  imposing  in  grandeur.  From  Puno  a steamer 
transfers  passengers  to  Guaqui  on  the  Bolivian  side  of  Lake  Titicaca,  and  the  trip,  whether 
made  at  night  or  in  the  daytime  is,  under  favorable  circumstances,  the  most  charming 
experience  imaginable.  The  new  steamers,  appropriately  named  the  Inca  and  Coya  are  of 
five  hundred  or  more  tons,  the  older  ships,  of  which  the  Yavaiy  is  one  of  the  best,  being 
much  smaller.  Sometimes  the  lake  is  rough,  and  no  sea  is  more  irritating  to  those  who 
suffer  from  nial  dc  mcr  than  this  beautiful  lake  when  the  surface  loses  its  mirror-like  calm. 
The  rough  seas  of  the  English  Channel,  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  and  the  Caribbean  do  not  disturb 
one’s  comfort  half  so  much  as  the  staccato  movement  of  this  mysterious  body  of  water, 
which  seems  to  be  unsettled  as  often  from  subterranean  as  from  atmospheric  causes.  If  the 
steamer  makes  a day  trip  the  passengers  land  at  Guaqui  at  about  nine  o’clock  in  the  evening, 
and  if  a night  trip,  a little  later  than  that  hour  in  the  morning.  The  remainder  of  the  journey, 
as  elsewhere  described,  takes  one  to  the  city  of  La  Paz,  from  which  various  interesting 
journeys  may  be  made  to  the  other  cities. 


PUBLIC  LVORKS—RAILLV AYS— TELEGRAPH  LINES 


217 


If  preferred,  the  traveller  wishing  to  visit  Bolivia  need  not  go  ashore  at  Mollendo,  but, 
continuing  down  the  Pacific  coast  as  far  as  Antofagasta,  may  take  a train  from  that  port  to 


ROAD  LEADING  TO  MINES  NEAR  ORURO. 


Oruro,  finishing  the  journey  to  La  Paz  by  diligence,  or  may  choose  one  of  the  numerous  routes 
by  diligence  or  muleback  leading  from  Oruro,  Challapata,  and  Uyuni,  the  principal  stations 
of  the  railway,  to  the  interior  cities  of  Cochabamba,  Sucre,  and  Potosi.  A delightful  trip, 
which  includes  visits  to  all  the  South  American  countries,  may  be  made  by  the  Pacific  Steam 
Navigation  Company’s  line  from  Liverpool,  which  has  a fortnightly  service  between  Liver- 
pool and  Valparaiso,  with  connecting  steamers  from  Valparaiso  up  the  west  coast  to  Panama. 
All  these  steamers  are  elegantly  fitted  up  for  the  passenger  service,  and  carry  a band  of 
musicians  for  the  entertainment  of  those  on  board.  They  are  large  twin-screw  steamers, 
four  of  the  transatlantic  line  being  of  ten  thousand  five  hundred  tons,  while  those  of  the 
Pacific  coast  service  are  of  six  thousand  tons.  The  steamers  from  Liverpool  call  at  Brazilian, 
Uruguayan,  and  Argentine  ports  on  their  way  to  Valparaiso.  At  least  a dozen  different 
steamship  lines  connect  Europe  and  North  America  with  South  American  ports,  the  Royal 
Mail  Steam  Packet  Company  and  the  Hamburg-American  Line  having  handsomely  appointed 
ships  to  Brazil  and  Argentina:  while  the  Lamport  and  Holt  steamers  from  New  York  to 
Brazil  and  Argentina  are  commodious,  and  the  service  provided  on  board  is  constantly 
improving  in  character.  All  these  lines  permit  of  the  passengers  making  connections  at 
Buenos  Aires  to  continue  the  trip  to  Bolivia,  either  by  railway  over  the  Argentine  Northern 


2i8 


BOLIVIA 


Central  to  Tupiza,  and  thence  to  Potosi  on  muleback,  a novel  treat  in  these  days  of 
universal  rapid  transit,  or  from  Buenos  Aires  across  the  Andes,  also  by  railway,  to  Valparaiso 
and  thence  to  Antofagasta  and  Oruro ; it  is  possible  to  take  an  all  sea  route,  by  the  Pacific 
Steam  Navigation  Company’s  line  from  Buenos  Aires  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan  as  far 
as  Antofagasta,  or  Mollendo.  By  whatever  itinerary,  the  journey  is  worth  while,  and  aside 
from  the  novel  features  it  presents,  it  is  sure  to  prove  more  restful  than  the  average  summer 
outing  to  popular  European  resorts.  As  a means  of  escaping  the  vigorous  northern  winters 
it  is  as  desirable  as  for  a relief  from  the  excessive  heat  of  the  summers,  the  South  American 
winter  corresponding  to  our  summer,  which  makes  the  trip  a particularly  pleasant  change, 
especially  in  Bolivia  where  the  winters  are  comparatively  mild.  The  best  seasons  in  which 
to  visit  Bolivia  are  spring  and  autumn,  when  the  weather  is  modified  from  the  extremes  of 
either  winter  cold  or  summer  heat. 


STONE  BRIDGES  ON  COACH  ROAD  BETWEEN  POTOSf 
AND  CHALLAPATA. 


I 


■i 


Ti’’*"' 


■S  ' ' 


I 


L 


i 

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S' 


V ■ 


Ir 


/ 

^■r  ■.  ;■ 


9 


LAKE  OF  SAN  PEDRO,  DEPARTMENT  OF  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  Xlll 


A THOUSAND-iWll.E  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK— INCIDENTS  OF  TRAVEL  IN  BOLIVIA 

'^HE  itinerary  for  the  journey  was  arranged  in  the 
^ conference  sala  of  the  office  of  the  director- 
general  of  telegraphs  in  La  Paz.  By  the  courtesy 
of  Sehor  Torrico,  and  through  the  thoughtfulness  of 
Senator  Jorge  Galindo,  of  Cochabamba,  a conference 
by  wire  was  obtained  with  the  Prefect  of  Cocha- 
bamba, Sehor  Dr.  Isaac  Aranibar,  and  at  the  end  of 
a very  charming  conversation,  during  which  the 
prefect  expressed  great  pleasure  in  the  anticipation 
of  welcoming  to  Cochabamba  the  distiugiiida  Nortc- 
amcricana  y su  sccretaria,  everything  remained  set- 
tled, as  to  horses,  mules,  guides,  and  servants,  for 
what  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  interesting, 
delightful,  and  altogether  memorable  journeys  in  a 
record  of  many  thousands  of  miles’  travel  by  land 
and  sea.  It  may  surprise  many  people  that  in 
remote  La  Paz  such  facilities  were  available  for  a 
long  distance  conference,  and  the  travellers  them- 
selves  were  thoroughly  astonished  to  learn  that  it  was  possible,  from  these  comfortable 
headquarters,  to  hold  uninterrupted  communication  with  the  Prefects  of  Cochabamba, 
Sucre,  and  Potosi,  through  the  services  of  a telegraph  operator,  who  conducted  the  con- 
versation between  cities  several  days’  journey  apart,  and  inaccessible  at  that  season, 
December,  except  by  long  trips  on  muleback.  It  was  decided  that  the  regular  semi-weekly 
diligence  should  convey  the  travellers  to  Oruro,  where  they  were  to  take  horses  and 
mules  for  the  rest  of  the  trip,  the  horses  to  be  used  on  the  less  difficult  roads.  Through 
Dr.  Aranibar’s  courteous  attention,  horses  and  guides  were  engaged  \h  Cochabamba  and 
sent  to  Oruro  to  await  the  travellers,  as  the  season  of  the  year  was  not  propitious  for 


222 


BOLiyiA 


securing  animals  at  short  notice  in  Oruro,  especially  to  serve  on  such  a long  trip  as  the 
one  proposed.  With  the  shortest  possible  delay  the  best  animals  for  travelling  over 
the  precipitous  trails  of  the  Andes  and  across  the  rocky  beds  of  the  canons  were  selected, 
and  the  expedition  was  placed  in  charge  of  an  arriero  who  had  conducted  families  from  one 
end  of  Bolivia  to  the  other  through  a period  of  twenty  years,  a conscientious,  shrewd, 
capable,  and  thoroughly  excellent  guide,  named  Indalecio  Palacios,  who  deserves  the  highest 
praise  for  his  faithful  services  on  this  occasion. 

Not  heeding  the  predictions  of  disaster  that  were  made  by  all  who  heard  of  the 
proposed  journey,  to  be  undertaken  at  the  worst  season  of  the  year,  when  the  rains 
were  heaviest  and  the  floods  most  destructive, — a journey  generally  pronounced  imposihle! 
It II  siiicidio!  and  otherwise  of  dire  prospect, — the  North  Americans  made  their  prepara- 
tions with  the  same  eagerness  as  if  only  hopeful  prognostications  had  been  offered,  and 
at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning  of  the  day  agreed  upon  to  begin  the  trip,  they  were  already 
seated  on  the  pescaiite,  as  the  coachman’s  box  of  the  diligence  is  called,  saying  good-bye  to 
the  numerous  friends  assembled  at  that  early  hour  to  despedir  them,  including  the  American 
minister,  Mr.  Sorsby,  who  appeared  a little  doubtful  as  to  the  outcome  of  this  expedition 
of  his  compatriots. 

The  old  diligence  was  similar  to  most  of  its  kind  in  Europe  and  America,  with  seats 
along  the  side  and  a high  box  for  the  driver,  to  which  two  passengers  could  be  admitted  in 
case  of  a crowded  list.  In  pleasant  weather  the  pescante  is  preferable  to  a seat  inside  the 
coach;  and  even  though  it  was  a raw,  cold  morning  when  the  diligence,  with  its  eight 
horses,  pulled  out  of  the  carndem  station  at  Challapampa,  with  the  “Americanas”  wrapped 
in  their  furs  and  waving  adieus  from  their  elevated  seats,  the  prospect  was  pleasanter  to 
them  than  it  would  have  been  inside,  with  sleepy  people  blinking  at  one  another  and 
grumbling  about  their  “places.” 

“Coaching”  is  a word  which  usually  suggests  high-stepping  thoroughbreds,  rubber 
tires,  and  all  the  accessories  of  a fashionable  turnout;  but  a coaching  trip  may  be  a 
delight,  as  this  one  proved,  in  a rattling  old  vehicle  drawn  by  eight  mules  unquestionably 
ordinary,  evidently  chosen  for  endurance  rather  than  appearances.  The  old  diligencia 
climbed  slowly  enough  until  it  arrived  at  El  Alto;  but  once  on  the  broad  plateau,  the  well- 
trained  mules  tore  over  the  level  road  at  a surprising  and  exhilarating  speed.  The  keen  air 
at  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  was  delightful ; and  when,  after  two  hours’  riding, 
the  coach  stopped  in  front  of  a little  posadii,  or  inn,  everyone  was  ready  for  a cup  of  coffee 
and  a roll,  which  were  taken  without  getting  down.  After  riding  on  for  three  hours  more, 
the  station  of  Ayoayo  was  reached,  at  one  o’clock ; and  while  the  driver  changed  mules  for  the 
second  time  that  morning,  the  passengers  had  aliiiiieipo,  as  the  noon  meal  is  called  in  all  South 
American  countries,  meaning  breakfast,  the  early  morning  coffee  and  rolls  being  desayitno. 
Ayoayo  is  pointed  out  to  travellers  not  only  as  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Tupac- 
Catari,  who  held  La  Paz  in  a state  of  siege  for  more  than  three  months  during  an  insurrection 
against  Spanish  rule  late  in  the  eighteenth  century,  but  as  the  scene  of  a massacre  of  Sucre 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


223 


soldiers  by  Indians  only  a few  years  ago  under  peculiarly  sad  circumstances,  the  young  men 
representing  the  best  families  of  Sucre  society.  It  is  a typical  village  of  the  plateau,  adobe 
built,  treeless,  and  dreary  looking.  A few  leagues  further  on,  the  coach  stopped  at  the 
thermal  springs  of  Viscachani  for  a few  minutes  only,  finishing  the  day’s  journey  at  Sicasica 
at  about  nine  o’clock  at  night.  All  day  the  snow-white  peaks  of  the  Andes  had  been  in 
view,  and,  dotting  the  landscape  in  groups  at  short  intervals,  were  seen  curious-looking 
adobe  mounds  or  towers  of  from  five  to  ten  feet  in  height,  with  a Gothic  archway  through 
the  centre,  giving  a singular  appearance  to  the  structure.  They  are  called  chiiUpas,  an 
Aymara  word  used  to  designate  not  only  the  buildings  but  their  architects,  though  it  was 
not  applied  to  the  latter  until  late  in  the  seventeenth  century.  These  chuUpas  are  generally 
regarded  as  the  ruins  of  ancient  Aymara  burial  places,  though  some  authorities  believe  them 


ANCIENT  SEPULCHRES,  CALLED  '■  CHULLPAS,”  BETWEEN  LA  PAZ  AND  ORURO. 


to  have  been  built  for  dwellings,  and  it  is  certain  that  they  were  used  as  such  at  the  time  of 
the  Viceroy  Toledo’s  visit  to  Alto  Peru,  when  he  gave  the  order  that  the  Indians  should  be 
forbidden  to  occupy  them  and  should  be  compelled  to  form  communities  around  a Christian 
church.  That  the  cliiillpas  have  been  used  extensively  as  burial  places  at  some  time  is 
proved  by  the  great  number  of  skeletons  found  in  them.  Next  to  the  colossal  ruins  of 
Tiahuanaco  and  the  remains  of  Inca  palaces  on  Lake  Titicaca,  these  cliuUpas  are  the  most 
interesting  pre-Columbian  relics  of  the  plateau. 

A long  day’s  ride,  from  six  o’clock  in  the  morning  until  nine  at  night,  is  sufficiently 
fatiguing  to  make  any  kind  of  lodging  desirable,  and  no  one  appeared  to  take  much  notice 
of  the  surroundings  at  Sicasica.  At  four  o’clock  the  next  morning  the  diligence  was  on  its 
way  again.  The  air  was  cold  and  clear,  and  from  the  pcscLiutc  a fine  view  was  to  be  had  of 
the  whole  country.  The  moon  was  just  disappearing  in  all  its  silver  splendor  behind  a bank 


224 


BOLIVIA 


of  black  clouds,  still  illumining  with  its  weird  light  the  towers  of  a distant  church  and 
shedding  a white  radiance  over  the  broad  expanse  of  plain.  Within  half  an  hour  more  the 
sun  came  out,  at  first  rosy  as  a child  from  its  bath,  and  then  golden  in  all  the  splendor  of 
the  new  day.  Along  a part  of  the  road  the  coach  was  whirled  over  a carpet  of  snow,  the 
result  of  a storm  the  night  before.  The  route  lay  past  the  battlefield  of  Aroma,  famous  as 
the  site  of  the  Cochabambans’  victory  over  the  Spaniards  in  the  War  of  the  Independence, 
then  through  the  pueblos,  or  villages,  of  Panduro  and  Vilavila,  with  their  plazas,  their  narrow 
streets,  and  little  shops,  over  many  of  which  hung  gorgeously  dressed  dolls  to  indicate  that 
cliicha  was  for  sale  within,  passing  Caracolla,  the  breakfast  station,  from  which  the 
direction  lay  due  southward  to  Oruro,  where  the  coach  stopped  at  four  o’clock  of  one  of 
the  windiest  days  in  Bolivia’s  windiest  city. 

Oruro  is  surrounded  by  mountains,  the  sides  of  which  have  been  burrowed  in  all 
directions  for  the  precious  metals  they  contain  in  abundance.  It  presented  a particularly 
attractive  appearance  to  the  two  North  Americans  the  morning  succeeding  their  arrival, 
when,  after  receiving  visits  from  the  prefect.  Dr.  Andres  Munoz,  and  the  rector  of  the 
university.  Dr.  Rodolfo  Galvarro,  who  extended  a cordial  welcome  to  their  city  with 
the  usual  hospitality  of  these  kind  people,  they  started  on  a sightseeing  tour,  with  the  genial 
editor  of  La  Tarde  as  cicerone.  The  market  place  is  always  interesting  to  foreigners,  and 
half  a day  was  not  too  long  to  spend  at  its  booths,  where  blankets,  woven  in  all  the  colors 
of  the  rainbow,  cliola  outfits,  all  kinds  of  home-made  lace,  pottery  of  primitive  design  and 
workmanship,  and  little  images  to  be  worn  as  amulets,  are  sold  at  whatever  price  it  appears 
most  probable  the  purchaser  will  pay.  As  it  was  necessary  to  secure  provisions  for  the 
muleback  trip  which  was  to  begin  the  next  day,  a little  cliola  servant  in  the  employ  of 
friends  was  sent  to  buy  chickens  and  other  necessaries  in  the  market.  In  this  country 
methods  are  the  reverse  of  those  employed  where  competition  makes  every  vendor  eager 
to  secure  purchasers.  Here  it  is  the  buyer  who  pleads  and  urges  that  he  must  have  such 
and  such  articles.  The  process  of  getting  a pair  of  chickens  was  as  complicated  as  if  it  had 
been  a question  of  some  delicate  legal  transaction.  The  price  did  not  seem  high  enough  to 
warrant  such  exclusive  methods. 

The  arriero  Palacios  having  arrived  with  the  horses  and  mules  from  Cochabamba,  every- 
thing was  ready  to  begin  the  journey  by  eight  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  December  14,  190^. 
The  cheerful  optimism  with  which  the  two  travellers  regarded  the  possible  experiences  in 
store  for  them  was  explained  in  the  statement:  “ Everybody  is  so  kind  to  us  everywhere!” 
and  they  wore  a happy  and  confident  mien  as  they  rode  out  of  the  patio  through  the  low 
stone  gateway  of  the  hotel,  and  turned  their  horses’  heads  toward  the  apparently  boundless 
plain,  across  which  they  were  to  hnd  their  way  to  the  Royal  Range  of  the  Andes,  and,  by 
following  its  steep  ledges  and  winding  canons,  to  reach  the  beautiful  valleys  beyond,  and 
visit  the  thriving  cities  of  central  Bolivia.  It  is  not  possible  to  take,  on  such  a journey, 
the  large  trunks  used  in  Europe  and  North  America,  where  railroad  facilities  are  such  that  the 
heaviest  baggage  can  be  easily  handled.  Eor  muleback  travel  light  trunks,  made  of  raw  hide 


A THOUSAND  MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


22^ 


and  called  petacas,  are  used,  generally  smaller  than  the  average  steamer  trunk.  Two  of 
these  may  be  strapped  on  each  mule,  and  if  the  weight  is  well  balanced  the  animal  will 
carry  very  heavy  loads.  The  provi- 
sions are  also  carried  in  these  petacas. 

The  saddlebags,  or  alfotjas,  are  an 
important  item  of  the  rider’s  outfit,  as 
in  this  way  are  carried  light  lum!hes, 
fruits,  etc.,  which  may  be  eaten  without 
dismounting,  in  case  of  emergency. 

The  first  day’s  trip  seemed  longer 
than  leagues  recorded  it,  the  sun  beat- 
ing down  with  intense  heat  on  the 
high  plateau  and  the  white  light  daz- 
zling by  its  sheen.  The  snow  moun- 
tains were  in  view  all  day,  refreshing 

'to  the  sight.  The  road  was  almost  entirely  level,  and  there  were  few  landmarks  along  the 
way  by  which  to  note  progress.  The  old  town  of  Paria,  looming  abruptly  in  the  path  after 
a sudden  turn  at  the  slope  of  a hillock,  awakened  interest  chiefly  as  the  first  pueblo  built  by 
the  conquerors  in  Bolivia.  It  was  worth  an  hour’s  delay,  though  it  possesses  little  of 
architectural  merit  except  an  old  church  which  is,  and  probably  always  has  been,  its 
chief  adornment. 

Small  huts,  the  homes  of  Indian  shepherds,  are  scattered  over  the  plain,  apparently  not 
large  enough  to  admit  more  than  one  person,  though  whole  families  occupy  them,  or  rather 
sleep  in  them,  as  a protection  from  the  piercing  cold  of  this  region  after  sundown.  During 
the  day  they  are  deserted,  except  on  rare  occasions.  Looking  into  one  of  these  curious  little 
hovels,  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  a kettle,  a box  of  matches,  a bit  of  tallow  candle,  a 
blanket,  a handful  of  parched  corn,  and  the  stones  on  which  to  grind  it.  There  seems  to 
be  little  fear  of  robbery,  as  none  of  these  huts  have  doors.  All  along  this  part  of  the  plateau, 
where  it  slopes  toward  the  Royal  Range,  there  are  sheepfolds  or  corrals,  enclosed  by  low 
walls  of  adobe  or  rocks.  Before  reaching  the  end  of  the  second  day’s  journey,  from 
Tolopalca  to  Ventilla,  the  plateau  was  left  behind  and  the  green  slopes  of  the  valleys 
appeared.  Palacios  felt  it  incumbent  upon  himself  to  point  out  objects  of  interest,  and  his 
information  was  of  the  most  varied  and  weird  description.  The  rocks  and  jagged  peaks  took 
on  a new  aspect  under  the  charm  of  many  legends:  and  strange  faces  looked  out  from 
uncanny  depths,  curious  forms  rose  up  in  the  crevices  of  the  canon,  and  above  one  of  the 
summits  the  head  of  Melgarejo  was  pointed  out,  with  a gesture  of  satisfaction  which  might 
or  might  not  bear  relation  to  the  safe  distance  at  which  the  celebrated  irramio's  sculptured 
likeness  appeared.  A terrific  thunderstorm  caused  half  a day’s  delay  at  Ventilla,  but  was 
worth  the  loss  of  time,  as  it  gave  an  opportunity  to  observe  a curious  custom,  when,  as  a 
heavy  downfall  of  hail  buried  the  ground  out  of  sight,  the  proprietress  of  the  inn  brought 


226 


BOLIVIA 


out  a brazier  full  of  incense  and  set  it  in  the  middle  of  the  patio,  “ to  burn  incense  to  the 
Virgin  and  have  the  hail  stopped.”  A few  minutes  later  the  hail  ceased,  and  the  devout 
little  housewife  came  out  triumphantly  to  take  away  the  brazier  and  to  explain  its  purpose 
to  the  astonished  onlookers.  Her  little  home  had  few  evidences  of  worldly  comfort,  but  in 
a corner  of  the  family  bedroom  there  was  an  altar  to  the  Virgin,  on  which  fresh  flowers 
were  placed  daily.  She  was  a happy,  contented  soul,  and  thought  Ventilla  the  most 
desirable  place  of  residence  in  the  world. 

Five  o’clock  in  the  morning  was  the  usual  hour  for  beginning  the  day’s  journey.  From 
Ventilla  to  Chuimani  the  road  was  rugged  and  mountainous,  and  a threatening  storm  made 
it  doubtful  whether  the  usual  number  of  miles  could  be  made  without  danger  of  being 
swept  down  stream  by  a sudden  flood.  But  fortune  was  favorable,  and  after  an  hour’s  rest 
and  breakfast  at  Chuimani  the  little  party  pushed  on  to  Arque,  arriving  early  in  the  afternoon. 
A deputation  consisting  of  the  chief  authorities  of  the  district  met  the  travellers,  whose 
coming  had  been  announced  in  advance  by  telegram ; and  they  were  escorted  to  the 
municipal  building,  where,  dismounting,  they  were  received  with  formal  speeches  of  wel- 
come. As  it  was  the  coiregidoVs  birthday,  the  town  was  in  fiesta,  and  presented  a gay 
appearance.  But  though  the  invitation  to  remain  was  cordial,  it  was  necessary  to  take 
advantage  of  every  fine  day  for  the  trip,  at  a season  when  storms  meant  possible  delay  of  a 
week  or  more;  and  at  four  o’clock  the  next  morning  the  party  started  out  of  Arque, following 
the  bed  of  the  river  nearly  all  the  way  to  Capinota.  The  scenery  of  the  Quebrada  de  Arque, 
as  this  part  of  the  route  is  called,  is  grand  and  imposing  beyond  description.  Nothing  more 
stupendous  in  rocky  chasm  and  pinnacled  height  is  to  be  seen  in  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Colorado,  in  the  Swiss  Alps,  or  even  in  the  Himalayas.  It  is  impressive,  awe  inspiring,  one 
of  the  noblest  of  Nature’s  architectural  wonders.  The  route  from  Arque  to  Capinota  follows 
the  river  bed,  and  it  was  necessary  to  cross  the  stream  more  than  fifty  times  during  the  five 
hours’  ride,  frequently  under  rather  uncertain  circumstances,  as  a torrent  had  poured  down 
through  the  quebrada  the  night  before,  and  fording  was  still  difficult  and  dangerous,  the 
animal’s  slightest  stumble  on  a loose  stone  serving  to  make  him  lose  ground  against  the 
heavy  current.  But  the  arriero  never  failed  to  attend  closely  to  his  charges,  and  his  Cuidado, 
niiias! — “Be  careful,  young  ladies  1” — served  to  guard  against  any  inattention  at  critical 
moments.  The  ride  into  Capinota  was  like  passing  along  one  of  the  shady  bridle  paths  of 
a European  city.  For  about  two  miles  the  road  lay  between  a double  row  of  wide-branching 
trees,  through  fertile  farm  lands;  and  when  the  cavalcade  entered  Capinota,  to  the  astonish- 
ment of  the  quiet  citizens  who  came  to  the  doors  to  see  the  estraiigeras,  nothing  could  have 
been  more  grateful  to  the  sight  of  the  fatigued  travellers  than  the  clean  streets  and  white 
houses  of  that  attractive  little  provincial  capital.  The  sub-prefect,  Senor  Maldonado,  and  his 
charming  family  extended  the  welcome  characteristic  of  gentlefolk  in  every  land,  and  their 
generous  hospitality  was  one  of  the  most  pleasing  experiences  of  the  trip.  It  would  have 
been  pleasant  to  stay  longer  in  Capinota,  but  a few  hours  were  all  that  could  be  spared,  and 
the  afternoon  saw  the  j/iietas,  as  horsewomen  are  called,  again  on  their  way.  The  afternoon 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


227 


was  that  of  a genuine  midsummer  day,  and  the  sun  blazed  down  with  extraordinary  fierce- 
ness on  the  high,  unsheltered  ledges  of  the  mountain  side  along  which  the  travellers  made 
their  way  for  hours.  The  scenery  was  magnificent;  and  when  the  winding  of  the  road 
brought  a breath  of  cool  air  or  a stretch  of  shade,  the  leagues  seemed  to  grow  shorter, 
though  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  the  little  town  of  Caraza  was  reached  and  the 
journey  was  ended  for  the  day.  It  had  been  less  than  the  usual  day’s  ride,  only  thirty 
miles,  but  the  road  had  led  first  through  the  rocky  bed  of  the  river  from  Arque,  and  then 
along  the  sun-heated  slopes  beyond  Capinota,  which  were  particularly  fatiguing  during  the 
hottest  hours  of  a summer’s  day,  with  the  natural  result  that  the  following  morning  found 


RIVER  ROCHA,  NEAR  COCHABAMBA,  SHOWING  TUNARI  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


the  travellers  particularly  tired,  making  the  continuation  of  the  journey  something  of  an  effort. 
But  at  the  usual  hour  they  started,  riding  slowly  for  four  hours,  until  a distant  view  of  a 
camp  of  North  American  engineers  near  Quillacollo  revived  their  drooping  spirits,  and  cheer- 
fulness increased  with  the  anticipation  of  meeting  fellow  countrymen  to  whom  they  could 
talk  in  their  own  language,  and  of  hearing  news,  perhaps,  from  their  own  dear  land.  The 
engineers,  who  were  engaged  in  the  survey  of  the  new  railway  between  Oruro  and  Cocha- 
bamba, had  already  received  information  of  their  approach,  and  appeared  equally  pleased  to 
see  friends  from  their  country,  showering  every  kind  attention  upon  their  delighted  guests, 
who  were  made  comfortable  until  the  effects  of  fatigue  disappeared  and  they  were  able  to 
go  on  to  Cochabamba,  which  they  reached  the  next  day. 


228 


BOLIVIA 


From  Oruro  to  Cochabamba,  a distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles,  a diligence 
carries  passengers  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  there  are  always  accommodations 

for  passengers  at  the  inns 
of  the  various  diligence 
stations.  But  on  the  long 
ride  from  Cochabamba 
to  Sucre,  these  advan- 
tages do  not  exist,  as 
there  is  now  no  coach 
system  over  this  road, 
covering  a distance  of 
about  three  hundred 
miles.  It  was  necessary 
before  leaving  Cocha- 
bamba to  purchase  beds 
and  provisions  for  the 
trip.  Army  cots  were 
bought,  of  the  kind  that 
can  be  rolled  up  in  a neat 
bundle  and  strapped  on 
the  mule  without  requiring  too  much  space.  Then  a shopping  tour  resulted  in  a nondescript 
collection  of  kitchen  utensils,  an  alcohol  stove,  and  a complete  picnic  assortment  of  canned 
eatables,  nearly  all  from  English,  French,  or  German  establishments,  the  United  States  being 
far  behind  in  this  market.  After  a pleasant  week  in  this  Garden  City,  enjoying  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  charming  Cochabamba  people,  the  small  caravan  was  got  ready  for  the  trip  to 
Sucre.  The  ladies  started  out  under  the  brightest  auspices,  with  a host  of  new  friends 
to  wish  them  a safe  journey.  It  was  quite  a cavalcade,  consisting  of  the  two  travellers  and 
their  anicro  and  servant,  three  saddle  horses,  two  saddle  mules,  two  pack  mules,  and  a 
donkey  for  the  small  boy  who  went  as  helper  to  Palacios.  The  first  day’s  ride  was  through 
the  fertile  valley  of  Cochabamba  to  Arani,  a town  thirty  miles  away,  which  has  a regular 
coach  service  to  the  city,  uninterrupted  the  year  round.  All  along  this  road  are  to  be  seen 
curious  round-topped  buildings,  some  used  as  dwellings,  and  others  as  barns.  They 
resemble  the  sauba  ant  mounds  of  Brazil,  on  a larger  scale,  or  the  African  bungalows, 
except  that  these  Bolivian  huts  are  of  adobe,  the  well-known  sun-dried  brick  generally 
used  throughout  Latin  America.  At  Punata,  near  Arani,  an  old  cemetery  presents  a 
remarkable  appearance  on  account  of  the  vaults  being  built  in  this  form.  The  climate  of 
Cochabamba  and  the  vicinity  is  superb,  and  a day’s  journey  in  this  part  of  Bolivia  is  an 
unmixed  delight.  The  second  day’s  ride  from  Arani  to  Ayapampa  was  a taste  of  what 
mountain  climbing  means,  and  the  thirty  miles  between  the  two  posVs  presented  almost 
every  variety  of  climate  and  weather.  Breakfast  tasted  just  as  good  eaten  while  sitting  on 


WEAVING  THE  PONCHO  ON  A PRIMITIVE  LOOM. 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


229 


a pile  of  stones  by  the  roadside  as  if  it  had  been  taken  at  a perfectly  served  table  in  one’s 
own  house,  for  the  altitude  and  the  bracing  air  gave  a wonderful  appetite,  and  the  ascent 
had  been  a sharp  one  from  six  o’clock  in  the  morning  until  noon.  A heavy  storm  of  rain 
and  hail  made  particularly  serviceable  the  gorgeous  ponchos,  or  blankets,  which  had  been 
purchased  at  Oruro  for  the  trip,  as  raincoats  did  not  meet  the  double  requirement  of  warmth 
and  waterproof  security.  Ayapampa  is  a brown,  rather  gloomy-looking  cluster  of  houses, 
high  among  the  mountains,  the  centre  of  a pastoral  community.  It  has  a well-built  church 
and  a good  school,  and  some  of  the  homes  give  evidences  of  comfort.  The  corregidor 
placed  his  house  d la  disposicion  de  las  Seuoras, — “at  the  disposal  of  the  ladies,’’ — who 
made  themselves  comfortable  for  the  night,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  Palacios  and  the 
servant,  made  experiments  in  amateur  cooking,  the  initial  steps  toward  acquiring  a profi- 
ciency in  culinary  art  which  developed  marvellously  before  the  end  of  the  journey.  That 
evening’s  effort  was  a dismal  failure,  and  a large  consignment  of  embryonic  “flapjacks” 
went  to  feed  the  birds  of  the  mountains,  but  ce  n'esl  qiie  le  premier  p^'is  qiii  cbiile! 

The  next  day  broke  the  record  of  endurance  in  travelling,  and  will  never  be  forgotten 
as  the  most  fatiguing  day  of  the  whole  trip.  From  Ayapampa  to  Mizque  is  estimated  at 
fifty  miles,  but  it  was  as  long  a fifty  miles  as  precipices  and  rocky  slopes  and  innumerable 
windings  can  meas- 
ure. Starting  at  five 
o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing and  riding  stead- 
ily until  nine  o’clock 
at  night,  with  only  a 
half-hour’s  rest  for 
breakfast,  this  long 
day’s  experience 
made  the  weary 
equestrians  decide 
that  the  fifty  miles 
must  have  been 
measured  “as  the 
crow  flies.”  The 
early  morning  was 
clear  and  cold,  and 
from  Ayapampa  the 
route  lay  down  the 
valley,  the  descent 
being  through  a bank 

of  clouds,  which,  when  seen  from  above,  looked  like  great  billows  of  seafoam,  then  as  one 
passed  through  them,  the  atmosphere  was  so  foggy  that  the  outstretched  hand  could  hardly 


230 


BOLIVIA 


be  distinguished,  and  from  below  the  fleecy  coverlet  gradually  rose  and  was  lost  to  sight  in 
the  blue  of  the  sky.  The  first  half  of  the  day  passed  quickly,  as  the  marvellous  beauty 

of  the  scenery  absorbed  attention. 
The  majesty  of  the  Cordilleras, 
rising  peak  above  peak  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  see,  and  the  wonder- 
ful depths  of  the  green  valleys  far 
below,  were  impressive  beyond  de- 
scription. And  when  the  descent  to 
the  bed  of  the  Mizque  River  began, 
the  varied  beauty  of  its  winding 
course,  as  it  spread  out  like  a pano- 
rama to  the  view,  was  enchanting. 
But  what  a long  time  it  took  to 
descend  the  mountain  to  a river  bed 
which  seemed  to  be  no  more  than 
half  a mile  away  1 Palacios  was  appealed  to  with  increasing  frequency  as  the  hours  passed, 
to  know  how  many  leagues  still  remained,  and  his  cheery  dos  6 tres  legiias  110  mas,  Senora, — 
“ two  or  three  leagues,  no  more,  lady,” — grew  dreadfully  monotonous  as  daylight  faded  and 
flashes  of  lightning  were  the  only  illuminating  beacons  to  show  the  way.  Fortunately,  the  river 
was  reached  before  dark ; but  it  was  pitch  dark  when  the  cavalcade  rode  into  Mizque,  and 
hardly  a light  glimmered  in  the  town  as  the  travellers  dismounted  in  the  plaza  and  were 
received  by  the  courteous  sub-prefect,  Sehor  Ladislao  Vasquez,  who  hastened  to  provide 
everything  for  their  comfort,  expressing  his  regret  that  an  accident  to  the  telegraph  wires, 
caused  by  the  recent  storm,  had  prevented  his  receiving  word  of  their  coming. 

Mizque  is  a survival  of  one  of  the  most  important  towns  of  the  Audiencia  of  Charcas, 
once  the  seat  of  a bishopric.  It  is  a quiet  borough,  picturesque  and  attractive  in  many 
ways.  A day  was  given  to  visiting  its  churches  and  gardens,  as  the  river  was  too  swollen  by 
floods  to  permit  of  riding  across.  The  next  day  was  the  last  of  the  old  year,  and  it  was  spent 
chiefly  on  the  road  between  Mizque  and  Aiquile,  the  latter  a thriving  provincial  capital,  the 
sub-prefect  of  which,  Senor  Nicanor  Arze,  is  a descendant  of  the  famous  Cochabamban  who 
led  the  victorious  forces  in  the  battle  of  Aroma.  Senor  Arze  and  his  wife  made  the  coming 
of  the  New  Year  as  bright  as  possible  to  the  two  strangers  in  their  city,  and  Sehor  Arze 
accompanied  the  party  as  far  as  Novillera,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  fruit  farms  in  Bolivia. 
With  their  saddlebags  full  of  oranges  and  lemons,  the  ladies  left,  after  breakfast,  for  Quiroga, 
where  accommodations  were  scant,  but  hospitality  was  generous,  Sehor  Manuel  Rodriguez 
giving  up  his  store  as  a lodging  for  the  unexpected  arrivals.  The  only  available  space  was 
on  the  counter,  and  here  Palacios  and  the  servants  arranged  the  cots  for  the  first  night’s  rest 
of  the  New  Year.  It  was  a holiday  to  be  remembered,  as  all  the  town  was  celebrating  with 
music  and  procession,  the  Indians,  who  were  in  fiesta  after  their  own  peculiar  fashion. 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


231 


shouting  and  dancing.  The  commotion  caused  alarm  to  the  travellers,  which  was  quickly 
allayed  by  the  reassuring  announcement  of  the  arriero,  who  kept  guard,  that  all  the  noise 
meant  nothing,  or,  as  he  expressed  it.  No  importa  iiada,  Seilora. 

All  along  the  central  valley,  which  is  the  route  from  Cochabamba  to  Sucre,  the  scenery  is 
very  like  some  parts  of  Mexico,  where  the  cactus  grows  in  profusion  and  the  climate  is  semi- 
tropical.  But  the  cactus  and  the  pepper  tree  reach  their  maximum  growth  in  this  region,  the 
cactus  towering  up  in  a single  huge  stem  to  the  height  of  a small  poplar,  while  the  pepper 
tree  branches  out  with  wonderful  vigor.  Few  signs  of  animal  life  are  seen,  except  of  the 
domestic  variety,  though  there  are  many  beautiful  birds,  and  whole  flocks  of  parrots  and 
paroquets  fly  screaming  overhead  at  short  intervals  all  day  long.  Not  many  insects  were 
seen,  but  a great  deal  of  warning  was  given  by  friends  to  be  prepared  for  a fierce  specimen 
called  vinchiica,  a kind  of  vampire  beetle,  which,  however,  did  not  appear.  Many  magnificent 
country  estates  are  scattered  along  the  sides  of  the  rich  agricultural  valley ; and  over  the  Rio 
Grande,  which  was  crossed  scores  of  times  during  one  day,  the  beautiful  Puente  Arce  has  been 
swung  to  facilitate  travel  in  this  section  of  the  country.  One  night,  after  a ride  of  thirty-six 
miles  over  the  stony  bed  of  the  river,  a clw^a, 
or  Indian  hut  made  of  straw,  appeared  to 
view,  and  it  was  decided  that  a night’s  rest 
under  its  scanty  roof  would  be  better  than 
a too  strenuous  effort  to  reach  the  next 
posta ; so,  as  soon  as  permission  was  granted, 
the  cots  were  prepared,  and  the  weary  griugas, 
soothed  by  the  moonlight  streaming  in  and 
the  sound  of  some  distant  postilion's  guitar, 
or  clumiiigo,  borne  faintly  on  the  night  air,  fell 
asleep,  the  aniero  keeping  guard  with  a re- 
volver which  never  found  any  more  serious 
use  than  waking  the  echoes.  For  experience 
has  proved,  in  thousands  of  cases,  that  trav- 
ellers are  as  safe  in  the  remote  districts  of 
Bolivia  as  on  a city  street  in  the  most  carefully 
policed  centres  of  the  world.  The  chief  trouble 
encountered  was  that  of  procuring  forage,  the 
season  being  the  worst  of  the  year  for  pas- 
turage. It  was  of  no  use  to  urge  the  j/7767'6>  to 

^ ® PUENTE  SAN  BARTOLOME  BETWEEN  POTOSI  AND  YOCALLA, 

stay  at  some  posla  that  seemed  to  offer  special 

attractions  in  scenery  or  historical  interest.  No  Iiav  formge — “There  is  no  forage” — was 
the  death  knell  to  poetic  dreams  upon  more  than  one  occasion  on  that  memorable  ride. 

The  day  of  the  arrival  at  Sucre  broke  clear  and  promising,  and  from  the  posla  of  Cantu- 
molino  the  cavalcade  set  out  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning  to  climb  the  almost  perpendicular 


232 


BOLIVIA 


height  that  marks  the  approach  to  the  famous  city.  A terrific  storm  came  on,  at  first  in 
great,  splashing  drops,  then  in  a steadier  downpour,  and  finally,  as  the  level  heights,  called 

puna,  were  reached,  the  climax  came 
in  hailstones  as  large  as  marbles. 
The  rain  quickly  drenched  the  ladies 
to  the  skin,  though  it  did  not  dampen 
their  enthusiasm.  It  was  a glorious 
sight  up  there  on  the  heights,  from 
which  the  trickling  rivulets  could  be 
seen  leaving  the  crevices  of  the  sum- 
mits and  forming  into  larger  streams, 
which  were  quickly  swollen  into 
floods  as  they  swept  into  the  gullies 
of  the  lower  canon  and  were  carried 
in  a mighty  torrent  down  to  the  bed 
of  the  now  raging  river.  In  half  an 
hour  it  was  all  over,  and  the  sun  came  out  over  the  peaks  and  shone  down  into  the 
qiiehradas,  almost  visibly  checking  the  rushing  waters.  Sucre  looked  whiter  than  ever  after 
such  a drenching,  and  it  was  a most  welcome  sight  after  nine  days’  journey,  though  every 
day  had  been  enjoyable. 

No  one  can  ever  get  away  from  Sucre  so  soon  as  he  has  planned  to  do,  no  matter 
how  urgent  the  case  may  be ; and  although  it  had  been  the  intention  to  give  only  a few 
days  to  sightseeing  in  the  capital,  the  time  flew  by  so  agreeably  that  at  the  end  of  two 
weeks  it  was  with  reluctance  that  good-byes  were  said.  Hospitality  was  most  cordial  and 
genuine,  even  the  problem  of  taking  care  of  the  animals,  the  eternal  question  of  forrage, 
being  solved  by  a distinguished  Sucrense,  Sehor  Urioste,  brother  of  the  Princess  de  Glorieta, 
who  turned  them  out  to  graze  on  his  own  magnificent  hacienda.  Receptions,  soirees,  picnics, 
and  a grand  ball  which  was  marked  by  as  much  eclat  as  if  it  had  taken  place  in  a European 
capital,  were  features  of  the  entertainment  provided  for  the  visitors,  who,  on  leaving,  were 
escorted  to  the  first  posfa  by  tlie  distinguished  prefect.  Dr.  Julio  La  Faye,  and  a party  of 
leading  Sucrenses,  who  treated  them  to  a sumptuous  breakfast  in  despedida.  It  was  late 
before  the  next  posta  was  reached,  at  the  Puente  Sucre,  which  crosses  the  Pilcomayo  River, 
but  from  this  point  to  Potosi  was  only  three  days’  riding,  and  the  roads,  though  steep  and 
narrow,  were  in  no  place  dangerous.  From  the  Puente  Sucre  the  ladies  were  accompanied  for 
several  leagues  by  the  courteous  official,  Sehor  Rodriguez,  and  early  in  the  afternoon  the  day’s 
ride  ended  at  Retiro.  One  of  the  temporary  attaches  of  the  expedition,  who  has  not  been 
described  before  because  he  attracted  little  attention,  was  the  postilion.  This  unique  type  serves 
from  one  posta  to  another  only,  and  it  is  chiefly  in  the  mountains  that  his  personality  becomes 
a picturesque  feature  of  the  landscape.  In  the  valleys  he  is  an  uninteresting  creature  who 
runs  his  fifty  or  sixty  miles  a day  in  a plodding,  expressionless  sort  of  way,  but  on  the 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


233 


uplands  the  species  is  different.  He  is  a poem  in  rags  and  patches,  a symphony  in  prismatic 
ensemble,  with  an  individuality  as  striking  as  quaintness  can  make  it.  He  swings  his  silver- 
tipped  horn  over  his  shoulder  and 
holds  his  beloved  charango  close  to 
his  heart,  even  when  he  thrums  on  it 
the  strange,  monotonous  tristes  which 
constitute  the  musical  masterpieces 
of  his  race.  He  is  silent,  yet  eloquent 
in  his  silence,  as  the  garrulous  white 
man  seldom  is  with  all  his  words. 

His  bushy,  but  straight,  black  hair 
makes  a thick  fringe  under  the  knitted 
cap  which  he  pulls  down  over  his 
ears,  and  his  black  eyes  are  wide 
open,  though  not  always  in  inno- 
cent questioning.  He  is  sometimes 
a shrewd  schemer.  The  postilldii, 
who  trotted  on  ahead  to  herald  the  travellers’  arrival  at  Conapaya,  vigorously  blowing  his 
silver-tipped  horn,  caused  a panic  by  selecting  as  their  breakfast  room  at  the  tambo,  or  inn, 
an  apartment  in  which  the  ladies  found  themselves  face  to  face  with  a case  of  smallpox  at 
the  worst  stage  of  the  disease.  The  escape  from  the  dangerous  situation  was  sudden  and 
somewhat  dramatic ; but  as  a physician  who  was  encountered  on  the  road  to  Potosi  the  next 
day  explained,  the  great  altitude  practically  prevents  contagion,  and  the  disease  had  never 
been  known  to  exist  except  in  sporadic  cases,  usually  brought  from  a lower  district.  This 
did  not  entirely  allay  anxiety,  however,  and  upon  arriving  at  Potosi  the  doctor  was  called  in 
to  vaccinate  the  entire  party.  Palacios  balked  and  refused  to  be  bothered  with  it,  and  the 
postilion  could  not  be  found,  but  the  small  helper  was  made  an  unwilling  victim. 

Naturally  there  was  much  to  see  in  the  wonderful  old  city  of  Potosi,  and  it  was 
only  after  several  days  that  the  enthusiastic  visitors  to  the  Villa  Imperial  could  make  up 
their  minds  to  go  on.  Here  as  elsewhere  hospitality  was  liberally  shown,  and  time  was 
made  to  pass  very  pleasantly  in  the  company  of  charming  new  friends.  Sehor  Juan 
Ugarteche  and  his  beautiful  wife,  whose  father  is  Sehor  Bebin,  one  of  the  richest  mine 
owners  of  Bolivia,  were  most  attentive,  as  were  many  others. 

The  route  from  Potosi  to  Challapata,  the  coach  road  terminus  on  the  Antofagasta  and 
Oruro  Railway,  is  said  to  be  better  than  that  from  Sucre  to  Challapata,  and  yet  it  seems  hard 
to  believe  that  any  road  could  present  more  difficulties  to  the  equestrian  than  the  former.  The 
first  day’s  riding  offered  few  inconveniences  except  that  a flood  made  the  river  impassable  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Mendieta  placer  mines,  and  it  was  necessary  to  wait  patiently  till  the 
river  “ passed.”  An  expression  which  sounds  strange  to  the  foreigner  is  that  of  the  river’s 
“arriving”  and  “passing.”  “ I think  we  can  get  to  the  next  posta  before  the  river  arrives,” 


THE  LLAMA,  THE  PROUDEST  OF  BURDEN  BEARERS. 


BOLIVIA 


234 

the  arriero  would  say,  and  at  first  the  idea  of  this  transient  passenger  was  a source  of  great 
amusement.  But  as  the  rivers  depend  for  their  existence  on  the  rains  that  flood  the  moun- 
tain crevices,  it  can  easily  be  understood  that  their  “arrival”  is  entirely  a passing  event. 
A small  stream  sometimes  remains  to  mark  their  turbulent  course,  but  even  this  is  not  a 
certainty  the  year  round.  A great  deal  of  work  has  been  done  to  keep  the  roads  passable. 
A few  leagues  out  of  Potosi  the  Puente  del  Diablo,  between  Yocalla  and  Tarapaya,  was 
pointed  out  by  Palacios  as  a wonderful  piece  of  construction  done  by  his  Satanic  majesty  on 
a wager  for  the  soul  of  a belated  lover  who  was  unable  to  cross  the  stream  to  save  his 
sweetheart  from  marriage  with  another,  and  who  bargained  to  give  his  soul  if  the  devil 
would  build  the  bridge  before  the  cock  crew  in  the  morning.  When  the  work  was  nearly 
done  the  young  man  repented  of  his  wicked  wager  and  prayed  to  the  Virgin  to  save  him 
from  the  awful  sin  he  was  committing.  His  prayer  was  heard,  and  the  cock  crew  before 
the  last  stone  was  placed  in  the  arch.  He  leaped  across  the  nearly  completed  bridge,  and 
while  the  devil  cursed  the  bad  luck  that  had  befallen  his  enterprise,  the  young  man  received 
the  blessing  of  the  Church  on  his  happy  marriage  with  the  fair  lady  of  his  choice. 

On  every  highway  of  the  Cordillera  great  droves  of  llamas  may  be  seen,  carrying  their 
small  loads  to  and  from  the  mines.  One  morning  a thousand  of  these  stately  freight 


COSTUMES  WORN  BY  THE  INDIANS  ON  THE  PILGRIMAGE  TO  THE  SHRINE  OF  COPACABANA. 

bearers  were  counted,  in  droves  averaging  a hundred  each.  Most  of  them  were  carrying 
blocks  of  tin  to  Challapata,  or  merchandise  from  that  city  to  Potosi.  The  blocks  weighed 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


23^ 

twenty-five  pounds,  and  each  llama  carried  two  of  them.  An  average-sized  llama  will 
carry  from  fifty  to  sixty  pounds,  and  the  larger  animals  eighty  and  in  rare  cases  a hundred 
pounds.  But  the  llama  knows  his 
loading  capacity,  and  absolutely  re- 
fuses to  have  one  ounce  extra  put  on 
his  back.  If  such  an  insult  is  offered 
him,  he  sits  down  in  the  road  until 
the  offending  load  is  removed.  Beat- 
ing and  coaxing  will  not  get  him  to 
his  feet  again,  and  sometimes,  even 
after  the  load  is  taken  off,  he  refuses 
to  continue  the  journey.  The  other 
llamas  will  not  go  on  without  him, 
and  it  is  a serious  question  with  his 
Indian  driver  whether  to  carry  the 
llama  until  he  will  agree  to  walk,  or 
to  kill  him,  so  that  the  caravan  can  go 
on  with  its  freight.  The  llama  travels 
only  from  nine  to  ten  miles  a day,  keeping  a slow  majestic  pace,  with  his  head  held  high  in 
the  air,  turning  it  from  one  side  to  the  other  as  objects  of  interest  attract  his  attention.  He 
is  a superb-looking  creature,  sometimes  of  gorgeous  coloring,  when  his  coat  has  been  dyed 
red,  yellow,  or  green  to  match  his  master’s,  and  bright-hued  ribbons  have  been  tied  through 
holes  pierced  in  the  tips  of  his  long,  erect  ears.  The  Indians  believe  the  llama  has  the  soul 
of  a departed  Inca,  which  accounts  for  his  pride.  An  Indian  who  owns  a drove  of  llamas 
is  independently  rich.  • They  find  their  own  forage,  their  wool  supplies  him  with  clothing, 
their  bones  make  his  utensils,  their  meat  is  food  for  him  in  an  emergency,  his  sandals  are 
made  of  their  hide,  and  llama  dung  furnishes  the  fuel  with  which  he  cooks  his  food.  The 
llama  chews  the  cud,  and  his  weapon  in  anger  or  fear  is  spitting  at  the  offender.  His  wool 
makes  durable  ponchos,  which  the  Indians  weave  on  very  primitive  looms. 

As  the  journey  approached  its  close,  the  roads  seemed  to  grow  steeper  and  the  posUis 
further  apart.  At  times  it  appeared  to  be  a question  whether  the  mules  were  walking  on 
their  feet,  or  picking  their  way  down  the  almost  perpendicular  slopes  on  their  noses,  and  then, 
a sudden  ascent  would  reverse  appearances,  and  one  could  not  help  wondering  how  long 
the  mules  could  preserve  their  equilibrium  with  the  scant  hold  their  hind  feet  had  secured 
on  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  while  the  fore  feet  floundered  around  in  what  seemed  an  ever- 
lasting effort  to  get  a solid  base.  Chasms  opened  on  one  side  and  rocky  ledges  crowded  on 
the  other,  while  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  illimitable  space  ahead,  and  there  was  no  way 
of  going  back.  These  were  features  of  the  trip  which  were  not  of  unmixed  enjoyment,  but 
not  a single  accident  occurred  on  the  entire  journey:  and  though  part  of  it,  between  Lenas 
and  Vilcapugio,  was  travelled  at  an  altitude  of  over  sixteen  thousand  feet,  where  the  cold 


2^6 


BOLIVIA 


was  intense  at  night,  the  road  often  being  covered  with  snow  in  the  morning,  not  a 
moment’s  suffering  was  felt,  and  every  day  brouglit  new  diversion.  One  of  the  most 
entertaining  experiences  was  the  arrival  atTolapalca,  near  Vilcapugio,  on  an  Indian  feast  day. 
The  patio  of  the  posta  was  filled  with  a gay  crowd  in  bright  green,  yellow,  red,  and  blue 
ponchos,  all  barefooted,  even  at  that  high  altitude,  nearly  all  the  women  carrying  babies  swung 
on  their  backs.  They  had  musicians  whose  instruments  were  primitive  flutes,  called  qiienas, 
horns,  cliarangos,  and  drums,  and  who  at  frequent  intervals  marched  two  by  two  around 
the  patio  and  into  the  barroom,  where  chicha  flowed  like  water.  Men,  women,  and  children, 
when  drinking,  first  spilled  some  of  the  liquor  on  the  ground,  as  an  offering  to  Mother  Earth, 
or,  according  to  some  authorities,  to  propitiate  the  invisible  spirits  supposed  to  be  present 


CHALLAPATA.  RAILROAD  TOWN  AND  TERMINUS  OF  THE  MULEBACK  TRIP  FROM  POTOSf. 


upon  all  occasions;  and  after  each  libation  they  would  perform  the  ceremony  of  walking 
across  the  patio,  two  by  two,  and  kneeling  upon  the  ground  at  every  three  steps  to  kiss 
the  donor  of  all  their  blessings.  As  their  chicha  is  made  from  maize,  their  obeisance  is  a 
recognition  of  the  beneficent  source  which  provides  them  with  it.  Even  in  the  religious 
fiestas  of  Copacabana,  the  Indians  observe  many  of  their  primitive  ceremonies,  while  their 
costumes  suggest  a strange  mixture  of  pagan  with  Christian  training.  The  arrival  of  the 
travellers  appeared  to  make  not  the  slightest  difference  to  them,  and  they  hardly  glanced  at 
the  newcomers. 

An  amusing  process  in  all  the  smaller  postas  of  the  remote  country  districts  was  the 
presentation  of  the  official  letter  from  the  government  to  the  atcatde  of  the  place,  which  was 
necessary  in  order  to  secure  the  best  attentions.  Many  of  these  country  authorities  speak 


A THOUSAND-MILE  TRIP  ON  MULEBACK 


237 


only  the  Aymara  or  Quichua  languages;  and  as  Palacios  is  acquainted  with  both,  he  had 
to  interpret  the  contents  of  the  mysterious  document,  which  he  usually  did  with  florid 
emphasis.  Papel!  Gobierno!  were  magic  words  with  which  to  begin  his  oratorical  effort; 
and  it  was  a fascinating  sight  to  see  the  alcalde  in  his  gorgeous  poncho,  with  his  silver- 
topped  and  tassel  led  vara,  or  staff  of  office,  held  tightly  in  one  hand,  peering  earnestly  into 
the  pages  of  a document  which  apparently  meant  much  or  little  to  him  according  to  the 
arrierds  eloquence.  But  these  authorities  are  excellent  judges  of  human  nature,  and  are 
not  easily  deceived.  They  saw  that  the  strangers  were  entitled  to  consideration,  and  every 
possible  facility  was  granted  at  a reasonable  price,  every  attention  was  shown,  and  the 
alcalde  took  leave  of  his  visitors  upon  every  occasion  with  a dignity  and  simplicity  that 
were  altogether  charming.  The  alcalde  rules  his  little  canton  well,  but  he  cannot  always 
prevent  abuses,  the  Indians  of  the  plateau  being  shrewd  and  resourceful.  A laughable 
incident  occurred  to  prove  that  at  least  they  are  not  so  stupid  as  some  foreigners  believe. 
It  was  necessary  to  buy  bread,  and  the  arriero  had  been  sent  to  get  it,  in  the  form  of  paiicitos, 
as  the  little  loaves  are  called.  After  laying  them  on  the  table,  he  went  to  unload  the  mules; 
and  in  the  meantime  a poor,  old  Indian  woman  appeared,  with  several  children  clinging  to 
her  skirts,  to  beg  bread.  All  the  paiicitos  were  poured  into  her  lap,  and  the  arriero  was 
called  to  buy  more.  Seeing  the  beggar,  his  face  relaxed  in  a broad  grin,  in  appreciation  of 
the  joke,  as  he  exclaimed:  “But,  Sehora,  that’s  the  woman  who  sold  me  the  paiicitos!’'  It 
was  a transaction  that  would  have  done  credit  to  the  sharp  methods  of  Seven  Dials ! As  a 
type  of  his  class,  the  arriero  himself  was  an  interesting  as  well  as  an  amusing  study 
throughout  the  trip.  He  had  a ready  solution  for  every  difficulty.  The  promptness  with 
which  he  disposed  of  a tired  or  lazy  mule  and  secured  a fine  specimen  to  replace  it,  the 
astonishing  facility  with  which  he  obtained  favors  from  the  most  obdurate  officials  in 
the  little  postas,  and  the  real  genius  he  displayed  in  getting  the  willing  services  of  passing 
arrieros  and  postilions  in  loading  and  unloading  his  cargo  were  proofs  that  under  more 
favorable  circumstances  Palacios  might  have  been  a great  politician  or  financial  magnate. 
He  was  a born  diplomat;  and  although  it  was  sometimes  annoying  to  find  that,  after 
having  listened  with  polite  attention  to  a suggestion,  to  which  he  invariably  responded 
with  Si  Sehora, — “Yes,  madam,” — he  continued  to  carry  out  his  own  plans  in  his  own 
way,  answering  each  insisting  demand  with  a reassuring  No  tenga  ciiidado,  Sehora,  which 
meant:  “ Don’t  give  yourself  any  uneasiness,  madam,”  experience  proved  that  his  judgment 
was  always  correct;  so  suggestions  became  fewer  as  the  journey  proceeded,  and  were 
finally  given  up  altogether. 

When  the  travellers  entered  the  railroad  town  of  Challapata,  at  the  end  of  their  ride 
from  Potosi,  on  February  i,  1906,  much  sunburned  in  spite  of  masks,  veils,  and  umbrellas, 
but  as  happy  and  optimistic  as  when  they  started  from  Oruro  nearly  two  months  before, 
they  were  enthusiastic  in  praise  of  the  great  country,  its  wonderful  climate  and  abundant 
resources,  and  expressed  their  opinion  that  it  offers  extraordinary  attractions  to  the  tourist 
as  well  as  to  the  matter-of-fact  investor.  The  trip  was  not  ended  until  a visit  had  been 


238 


BOLiyiA 


paid  to  the  mines  of  Huanchaca,  after  which  the  diligence  was  again  taken  for  the  final 
journey  from  Oruro  to  La  Paz,  though  it  required  three  days  this  time,  on  account  of  the 
bad  roads  and  the  poor  condition  of  the  animals.  The  heights  above  La  Paz  were  a 
welcome  sight  as  they  appeared  early  in  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  from  Oruro,  and 
at  four  o’clock  the  ladies  alighted  at  the  carretera  station  of  Challapampa.  At  a few  minutes 
after  five  they  presented  their  cards  at  the  mimsterio  of  justice  and  instruction  to  fulfil  the 
first  obligation  upon  their  return,  that  of  thanking  President  Montes,  through  Sehor  Saracho, 
for  the  many  courtesies  received  from  government  officials  throughout  Bolivia.  An  interview 
was  accorded  them  immediately,  during  which  Sehor  Saracho  expressed  great  satisfaction 
over  the  happy  termination  of  this  long  journey. 

All  the  fatigue,  and  the  few  unpleasant  experiences  of  the  thousand-mile  trip  through 
Bolivia  and  the  twenty-four  days’  ride  in  the  saddle,  were  quickly  forgotten  in  the  cordial 
reception  which  was  given  the  two  ladies  on  their  return  to  La  Paz.  Mr.  Sorsby  was 
complimentary  in  his  praises  of  the  courage  and  determination  of  his  countrywomen,  and 
his  excellency  the  president,  on  whom  they  called  to  pay  their  respects  before  leaving  this 
interesting  country,  said  to  them  at  parting:  “In  Bolivia  we  hear  much  of  the  remarkable 
energy  and  courage  of  the  North  American  woman,  and  you  have  shown  us  a wonderful 
example  of  it.” 


QUICHUA  INDIAN  GIRL  OF  POTOSL 


PROCESSION  OF  THE  VIRGIN  AT  COPACABANA. 


CHAPTER  XIV 


LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS— THE  SHRINE  OF  COPACABANA 


\^HATEVER  may  be  the  true  origin  of 
" ’ the  Children  of  the  Sun,  the  legends 
of  their  sacred  lake  are  purely  Oriental  in 
character,  and  might  have  come  direct  from 
the  sources  of  Hindoo  lore,  so  closely  do 
they  resemble  the  traditions  of  the  East.  The 
story  of  the  mysterious  birth  and  divine  ante- 
cedents of  the  first  Inca,  Manco-Ccapac,  sug- 
gests that  of  Vaivasouta,  the  Son  of  the  Sun 
among  the  Hindoos:  Manco-Ccapac’s  sister- 
wife,  Mama  Ocllo,  has  also  a counterpart  in 
Oriental  mythology.  Out  of  the  foam  of  the 
sea  have  risen  Mongolian,  Hindoo,  Egyptian, 
and  Greek  gods  and  goddesses  from  remote 
antiquity,  in  the  same  mysterious  way  as 
Viracocha,  and  their  first  appearance  has 
usually  been  on  a sacred  island.  The  an- 
cient inhabitants  of  the  Lake  Titicaca  region 
evolved  little  new  in  legendary  story  to  ac- 
count either  for  their  ancestry  or  their  religion, 

THE  VIRGIN  OF  COPACABANA. 

unless  theirs  is  the  original  version.  The  lake 
is  particularly  fitted  to  be  the  cradle  of  myths  and  traditions,  its  situation  high  above  the 
clouds  seeming  to  set  it  apart  for  some  peculiar  destiny,  as  sacred  mountains,  lakes,  and 
rivers  have  in  all  ages  possessed  a unique  feature  to  mark  them  as  divinely  chosen. 
Popular  lore  has  been  well  guided  in  placing  here  the  site  of  the  American  Garden  of  Eden. 
In  the  strange  stillness  that  reigns  around,  in  the  clear  atmosphere  and  cloudless  skies 

through  which  the  Alpine  glow  of  the  encircling  summits  spreads  with  unrivalled  splendor, 

241 


242 


BOLIVIA 


in  the  varied  beauty  of  its  islands,  promontories,  and  bays,  and  its  broad  expanse,  sparkling  in 
the  sunlight,  contemplation  is  enthralled  and  the  imagination  transported,  even  in  this  prosaic 


SHRINE  OF  THE  VIRGIN  OF  COPACABANA,  LAKE  TITICACA. 


age,  with  visions  of  the  supernatural,  as,  under  the  full  light  of  day,  Nature  appears  to  make 
strange  transformations,  and  the  islands,  floating  calmly  at  one  moment,  at  the  next  take  on 
curious  shapes  and  present  mysterious  illusions,  under  inexplicable  lights  and  shadows. 
What  more  natural  than  that  such  phenomena  should  be  magnified  to  the  wondering  gaze 
of  the  primitive  inhabitants  of  this  region ! 

Lake  Titicaca  occupies  a position  on  the  South  American  continent  about  midway  between 
the  Isthmus  of  Panama  and  Cape  Horn,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  undo,  or  knot,  which  the  Andes 
Mountains  form  where  the  coast  range  is  separated  from  the  Cordillera  Real,  or  Royal  Range, 
by  the  Lake  Titicaca  plateau.  By  air  line  it  is  about  three  hundred  miles  from  the  Pacific 
and  two  thousand  miles  from  the  Atlantic  coast.  It  crosses  the  boundary  between  Peru  and 
Bolivia,  the  limits  of  which  have  not  yet  been  definitely  settled  by  these  countries.  The 
altitude  of  the  lake,  which  is  the  highest  navigable  body  of  water  on  the  globe,  is  twelve 
thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  sea  level,  and  its  area  is  more  than  five  thousand 
square  miles,  measuring  at  its  greatest  length  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles,  and  in 
average  width  sixty-six  miles.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  four  per  cent  warmer  than  the 
atmosphere,  and  never  freeze,  thougii  the  thermometer  sometimes  registers  as  low  as  thirty 
degrees  Fahrenheit  in  the  winter  months,  the  proximity  of  the  snow  range  contributing  to 


LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS 


243 


increase  the  severity  of  this  season.  The  water  of  the  lake  is  brackish  and  disagreeable 
to  the  taste.  Its  depth  varies  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  one  thousand  five  hundred 
feet,  and  there  are  places  where  it  is  unfathomable.  Around  the  island  of  Titicaca — the 
famous  Inti-Karka  of  the  Inca  legend — the  depth  is  very  great,  though  generally  it  ranges 
elsewhere  between  seven  hundred  and  eight  hundred  feet. 

In  addition  to  the  sacred  islands  of  Titicaca  and  Coati,  better  known  as  the  Island  of 
the  Sun  and  the  Island  of  the  Moon,  there  are  twenty-three  of  smaller  area,  of  which 
Cumana,  about  nine  miles  long,  is  noted  for  its  excellent  marble.  On  the  Island  of  the  Sun 
are  still  to  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  wonderful  palace  which  was  occupied  by  the  Incas 
when  they  visited  Collasuyo,  and  there  are  remains  also  of  the  celebrated  Temple  of  the 
Sun  and  of  the  Vestal  Virgins.  This  island  is  the  largest  in  the  lake,  and  is  situated  about 
midway  between  the  Peruvian  port  of  Puno  and  the  Bolivian  port  of  Guaqui,  in  the  line  of 
steamers  passing  over  this  route.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  four  wide,  and  is  surrounded  by 
seven  small  islands,  forming  what  is  known  as  the  Titicaca  archipelago.  Coati,  the  Island  of 
the  Moon,  lies  a little  to  the  east  of  Titicaca  Island,  and  close  to  the  peninsula  of  Copacabana. 
Its  chief  interest  is  found  in  the  famous  ruins  of  the  Temple  of  the  Moon,  which  are  still  in 
a remarkable  state  of  preservation. 

The  crowning  glory  of  Lake  Titicaca  is  the  snow  range  of  the  Andes,  the  highest  peaks 
of  which,  reflected  in  its  mirroiiike  surface,  are  not  more  than  twenty-five  miles  away. 


LANDING  PLACE  AT  COPACABANA.  LAKE  TITICACA. 


They  form  a noble  chain,  from  bold  Sorata  to  Huayna  Potosi  and  Illimani,  the  massive 
white  pillars  rising  to  a height  of  from  twenty  thousand  to  twenty-two  thousand  feet.  Like 


244 


BO  Lin  A 


the  lake  itself,  these  mountains  have  their  legends,  the  Indians  peopling  them  with  good 
and  bad  spirits,  about  which  marvellous  tales  are  related.  From  their  heights  several  rivers 

find  their  way  to  Lake  Titicaca,  unim- 
portant as  a rule,  and  of  little  volume, 
but  serving  as  means  of  communica- 
tion with  the  lake  for  many  towns 
and  cities  of  the  Altaplanicie.  The 
largest  ports  on  the  Bolivian  side  of 
the  lake  are  Chililaya  and  Guaqui,  the 
former  having  been  the  terminus  of 
a coach  road  over  which  passengers 
were  taken  to  La  Paz  upon  their  arrival 
from  Peru,  before  the  Guaqui  and  La 
Paz  Railway  was  built.  It  is  still  a 
station  of  importance  on  the  line  from 
La  Paz  to  Achacachi  and  Sorata,  through 
a part  of  Bolivia  which  is  celebrated 
for  its  marvellous  scenery.  Sorata  is  a 
famous  health  resort,  and  was  once 
a rival  of  Potosi  in  opulence,  through 
the  enormous  yield  of  its  rich  placer 
mines.  In  1781  the  town  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  army  of  Tupac-Amaru, 
and  the  gold  fields  were  abandoned ; 
but  it  has  been  rebuilt  in  a more  modern  style,  and  is  to-day  a flourishing  little  city.  At  the 
great  elevation  of  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  feet  there  is  very  scant  vegetation  even  in 
the  tropics,  little  being  seen  except  coarse  Puna  grass  and  short,  thin  shrubs.  In  every 
sheltered  nook,  however,  flowers  grow  in  abundance  and  are  of  brilliant  colors,  giving  a 
warm  tone  to  the  grays  and  browns  of  the  bleak  Altaplanicie.  In  the  flower  market  of 
La  Paz  exquisite  blossoms  of  the  richest  hues  are  offered  for  sale,  not  only  those  gathered 
in  the  valley  of  Obrajes,  but  from  the  sheltered  places  of  the  high  plateau,  the  prices  being 
the  cheapest  in  the  world.  A few  beautiful  birds,  as  the  gulls  and  divers  which  cross  the 
lake,  and  the  flamingoes  on  its  shores,  give  a little  life  to  the  silent  scene,  and  fish  of  an 
agreeable  flavor  are  caught  in  its  waters.  There  is  an  old  tradition  of  a wildcat  inhabiting  the 
Island  of  the  Sun,  and  some  authorities  derive  the  name  of  the  lake  from  ////,  which  means 
a “lynx,”  and  karka,  a “rock,”  but  no  animals  of  this  species  are  seen  on  Titicaca  now. 
Many  of  the  islands  are  inhabited,  and  the  extent  to  which  the  Indians  have  cultivated  them 
is  truly  wonderful,  their  sloping  hillsides  being  furrowed  from  the  margin  of  the  water  to  the 
highest  summits,  while  the  land  all  around  the  border  of  the  lake  is  carefully  tilled,  pro- 
ducing harvests  of  barley  and  potatoes.  The  potato  is  a staple  food  of  the  plateau  and  all 


LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS 


24^ 


mountainous  regions  of  Bolivia,  and  is  prepared  by  a peculiar  process,  which  consists  of  first 
freezing  it,  then  pressing  out  every  trace  of  moisture  and  freezing  it  again,  until  it  is  proof 
against  cold  and  humidity.  In  this  condition  it  is  cooked  and  eaten,  under  the  name  of 
chuTio,  familiar  to  all  travellers  in  these  regions. 

Though  Lake  Titicaca  receives  many  rivers,  it  has  apparently  only  one  outlet,  that  of 
the  Desaguadero — “drainage” — River.  The  tradition  which  accounts  for  the  existence  of 
this  river  is  particularly  interesting,  as  it  introduces  into  the  history  of  this  part  of  South 
America  a personage  famous  in  religious  records  as  Saint  Thomas,  one  of  Christ’s  apostles. 
The  first  scene  of  the  story  is  laid  in  the  town  of  Carabuco,  on  the  eastern  border  of  the 
lake,  near  Sorata,  close  to  which  is  located  a fountain  called  the  Saint’s.  It  is  related  that, 
centuries  ago,  in  a cave  by  the  side  of  this  fountain  lived  a wonderful  man,  tall,  fair,  and 
bearded,  who  spoke  a language  different  from  anything  the  tribes  of  this  region  had  ever 
heard  before,  and  who  proclaimed  a new  religion,  teaching  the  worship  of  one  God,  and 
preaching  the  virtue  of  self-sacrifice.  With  the  stranger  came  six  disciples,  who  were  all 
tortured  to  death  by  tire  ferocious  Carabucos.  Not  content  with  this  demonstration  of 
cruelty,  the  savages  seized  and  beat  the  holy  teacher  himself,  and,  after  tying  his  hands 
and  feet,  threw  him  into  a hiha, — a boat  made  of  reeds  such  as  is  still  navigated  on 
this  lake  by  the  Indians, — and  turned  it  adrift  on  the  water,  to  be  upset  by  the  winds  and 


PENINSULA  AND  CITY  OF  COPACABANA,  LAKE  TITICACA. 


storms.  As  the  little  craft  with  its  saintly  burden  floated  out  from  the  shore,  suddenly  there 
appeared  on  the  lake  a woman  of  marvellous  beauty,  dressed  in  magnificent  robes  and 


246 


BOLiyiA 


wearing  a starry  crown,  who,  as  the  canoe  drifted  toward  her,  entered  it,  and  turned  its 
course  to  tlie  southeast,  leaving  an  open  track  behind  which  still  exists  among  the  reeds 


RUINS  OF  INCA  TEMPLE  ON  THE  ISLAND  OF  THE  SUN,  LAKE  TITICACA. 


along  the  margin,  and  a long,  luminous  wake  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  which  remained 
for  many  years,  clear  and  resplendent  as  the  rays  of  the  sun.  When  the  opposite  bank 
was  reached  the  ground  opened  to  make  a pathway  for  the  balsa,  forming  a river,  broad, 
tranquil,  and  many  leagues  in  length,  which  is  to-day  called  the  Desaguadero.  Thus  the 
apostle  mocked  the  persecution  of  the  savages,  and  was  able  to  continue  his  civilizing 
mission,  until  he  finally  suffered  martyrdom  in  Copacabana.  On  the  island  of  Titicaca 
is  shown  the  mark  of  his  footprints,  and  in  Carabuco  is  still  preserved  the  crucifix  which 
he  carried  throughout  his  pilgrimages.  The  same  legend,  with  variations,  is  related  in 
every  part  of  South  America,  and  in  all  these  countries  the  natives  have  traditions  handed 
down  to  them  by  their  forefathers,  regarding  the  arrival,  many  centuries  ago,  of  a wonderful 
man  who  preached  an  unknown  religion.  In  the  history  of  the  Jesuits,  whose  missionaries 
travelled  throughout  these  regions  teaching  and  preaching  Christianity,  one  of  the  priests 
gives  an  interesting  account  of  the  Charrua  Indians  of  Uruguay.  He  says  that  he  found 
them  possessing  clear  ideas  of  the  Christian  religion,  which  they  had  absorbed  from  the 
teachings  of  a man  they  called  Paz  Tume,  but  who  was  really  Saint  Thomas,  everything 
appearing  to  prove  that  the  apostle  was  an  evangelist  in  these  countries.  Another  Jesuit 
missionary  relates  that,  upon  being  received  with  great  kindness  by  the  Indians  of  Paraguay, 
he  asked  the  reason,  to  which  they  replied  that  when  Paz  Tume  passed  through  their 
country,  centuries  before,  he  had  said  to  their  ancestors:  “The  doctrine  which  I preach 
to  you,  you  will  forget  in  time,  but  when  after  many  years  other  priests  come,  carrying 
crucifixes  such  as  the  one  I wear,  your  descendants  will  hear  and  believe  this  doctrine. 


LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS 


247 


They  and  their  children  and  their  children’s  children  will  never  forget  it,  for  it  will  bring  to 
them  the  assurance  of  eternal  happiness  and  salvation.”  And  it  was  this  tradition,  handed 
down  for  generations,  which,  they  explained,  had  obliged  them  to  give  a friendly  welcome 
to  the  wearer  of  the  crucifix. 

Since  the  supernatural  opening  of  the  Desaguadero  River  to  make  a passage  for  Saint 
Thomas  and  his  divine  rescuer,  who,  tradition  says  further,  was  the  patron  protectress  of 
Copacabana,  Our  Lady  of  Candelaria,  it  has  been  a highway  for  many  a craft  directed  by 
less  sacred  hands  and  bent  on  the  more  worldly  mission  of  conducting  war  or  commerce. 
It  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a fierce  battle  between  armies  encamped  on  its  borders, 
and  during  the  dreadful  encounters  between  the  patriots  of  the  Independence  and  the 
armies  of  Spain,  a tide  of  blood  many  times  marked  the  course  first  opened  by  the  little 
halsa  containing  the  rescued  Saint  Thomas  under  the  direction  of  the  Holy  Virgin.  It  is 
to-day  one  of  the  most  important  waterways  in  Bolivia,  not  only  balsas,  but  steamers 
plying  between  its  ports.  The  scientific  facts  regarding  its  origin  are  not  established, 
beyond  the  indication  that  it  was  formed  by  an  unknown  process,  at  a very  remote 
period.  It  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  length  from  its  source  in  Lake  Titicaca 
southeastward  to  Lake  Poopo,  into  which  it  empties  a volume  of  six  thousand  cubic 
metres  of  water  per  minute,  having  a fall  of  four  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  throughout 
its  entire  length.  It  is  navigable  for  ships  of  five  hundred  tons  as  far  south  as  Nazacara, 
thirty  miles  down  the  river,  within  a few  miles  of  the  copper  mines  of  Corocoro,  and 
considerable  freight  passes  over  this  route  to  and  from  the  great  mining  centre.  Lake 
Poopo,  which  receives  the  Desaguadero  River,  is  the  second  in  size  of  Bolivian  lakes, 
being  sixty  miles  long  and  thirty  miles  wide.  It  has  subterranean  outlets,  but  on  the 
surface  not  more  than  sixty  cubic  metres  are  discharged  per  minute  of  the  six  thousand 
cubic  metres  which  it  receives  within  that  time.  The  Desaguadero  is  the  most  notable 
river  of  the  Altaplanicie. 

The  peninsula  of  Copacabana,  which  lies  within  the  disputed  territory  between  Bolivia 
and  Peru,  is  celebrated  as  the  site  of  a shrine  erected  in  honor  of  Our  Lady  of  Candelaria. 
It  is  popularly  called  the  shrine  of  the  Virgin  of  Copacabana,  and  was  at  one  time  the  most 
famous  as  well  as  the  richest  sanctuary  in  South  America.  It  is  related  that  soon  after  the 
conquest  an  Indian  of  the  family  of  the  Incas,  called  Yupanqui,  a native  of  Copacabana,  who 
had  been  converted  to  Christianity,  felt  such  great  reverence  for  the  Virgin  of  Candelaria 
that  he  decided  to  make  a sacred  image  to  be  devoted  to  her  worship,  with  the  idea  also  of 
founding  a brotherhood.  It  was  at  a time  when  pious  Catholics  of  South  America  were 
particularly  zealous  in  their  devotion  to  the  Virgin  of  Candelaria,  and  everything  seemed 
propitious  for  his  purpose;  but  he  was  ignorant  and  unskilled,  and  it  was  necessary  for 
him  to  spend  years  of  consecrated  effort  in  Potosi  and  La  Paz  in  order  to  make  an  image, 
even  of  medium  value,  worthy  to  be  venerated  by  the  public.  At  last,  however,  the  work 
was  finished  as  described  by  a friar  of  the  convent:  “The  bust  of  the  image  is  of  maguey, 
so  compactly  made  as  to  appear  like  wood.  It  is  gilded,  with  the  exception  of  the  hands 


248 


BOLiyiA 


and  the  face,  and  over  the  gilding  curiously  flowered  and  striped  designs  have  been  applied 
in  rich  colors  to  give  the  desired  effect  of  an  elaborate  robe,  a graceful  tunic,  and  the 
customary  headdress,  over  which  is  worn  a magnificent  crown.  The  crown  of  gold,  and 
the  great  jewelled  crescent  which  embellishes  the  robe,  are  the  conspicuous  emblems  of  her 
sovereignty  and  virginity.  One  hand,  covered  with  rings,  clasps  the  image  of  the  infant 
Jesus,  who  also  wears  a gold  crown.  A collar  of  priceless  pearls,  earrings  of  diamonds, 
brooches  of  rare  and  costly  gems,  and  rings  of  great  value,  are  a few  of  the  more  striking 
adornments,  a large  fortune  being  represented  in  these  jewels.  The  entire  robe  is  studded 
with  precious  stones,  and  from  the  wrist  of  the  hand  which  holds  the  image  of  the  infant 
Jesus  hangs  a gold  staff,  the  present  of  the  Conde  de  Lemos,  one  of  the  viceroys  of  Peru. 
The  altar  of  the  Virgin  is  embowered  in  lilies,  and  candles  burn  constantly  in  the  sacred 
shrine.”  Marvellous  are  the  miracles  attributed  to  the  Virgin  of  Copacabana,  and  ancient 
chronicles  abound  with  records  of  her  beneficence.  During  the  colonial  period  the  shrine 
was  in  charge  of  the  order  of  Saint  Augustine,  but  after  the  Independence  it  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  parochial  priests,  and  later  was  committed  to  the  supervision  of  the 


VIEW  OF  MOUNT  SORATA  FROM  LAKE  TITICACA. 


Franciscan  fathers,  being  at  the  present  time  under  the  administration  of  the  parish  of 
Copacabana.  The  church  is  built  in  accordance  with  the  colonial  style  of  Spanish  archi- 
tecture, its  white  cupolas  giving  it  the  appearance  of  an  imposing  cathedral,  as  seen  at  a 
distance.  It  occupies  a conspicuous  situation  on  tlie  peninsula  of  the  same  name,  and  is 


LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS 


249 


visited  at  all  times  of  the  year  by  devout  pilgrims.  In  front  of  the  church  are  three  crosses, 
cut  out  of  solid  rock,  which  attract  special  attention. 

Steamers  make  regular  calls  at  Copacabana,  and  it  is  worth  the  journey  to  spend  a day 
in  the  little  town,  which  is  as  quiet  as  its  famous  church,  except  when  the  annual  fiestas 
transform  it  into  a scene  of  the 
wildest  gayety.  The  popula- 
tion is  almost  entirely  Indian, 
of  Aymara  origin,  and  the  chief 
occupation  of  the  people  is 
tilling  “a  churlish  soil.”  Their 
stoic  calm  is  proof  against  or- 
dinary diversions;  but  when 
the  great  feast  day  of  the  Vir- 
gin is  celebrated,  they  seem 
to  make  up  for  reticence  and 
silence  during  the  rest  of  the 
year.  Dances,  songs,  and 
weird  spectacles  succeed  one 
another  in  a chaos  of  mirth. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  fiesta 
the  ceremonies  are  impressive, 
and  there  is  something  quaint  and  picturesque  in  the  scene,  as  these  primitive  natives  of 
the  soil  appear  in  their  gorgeously  colored  traje  de  fiesta,  or  holiday  costumes,  and  join 
in  the  sacred  procession,  singing  in  the  Aymara  tongue  the  sacred  songs,  to  which  they 
give  the  triste  note  so  characteristic  of  their  own  music,  and  so  eloquent  of  their  unhappy 
destiny.  In  the  clear  atmosphere  the  sound  is  carried  far  out  over  the  lake,  and  echoes  are 
repeated  for  miles  around  when  the  joyous  exclamations  of  the  pilgrims  rend  the  air.  As 
the  fiesta  continues,  the  Indians  and  chotos  become  more  and  more  excited  and  noisy,  and 
their  dances  and  songs  take  on  many  grotesque  features.  In  their  curious  carnival  dress 
and  the  ludicrous  character  which  the  celebration  takes  before  its  close,  the  influence  of 
primitive  beliefs  and  customs  becomes  more  and  more  visible,  until  the  conglomeration 
of  Indian  rites  and  Christian  ceremonies  presents  a unique  though  picturesque  effect. 
During  recent  years  the  fiesta  of  Copacabana  has  lost  some  of  its  more  marked  character- 
istics, but  it  is  still  an  interesting  spectacle  to  travellers,  as  it  has  some  features  not  seen  in 
similar  celebrations  elsewhere  in  South  America. 

All  around  the  border  of  Lake  Titicaca,  both  on  the  Bolivian  and  on  the  Peruvian  side, 
are  towns  celebrated  for  their  handsome  old  churches  and  convents,  which  the  Jesuits  built 
in  this  region  when  they  began  their  missionary  work  in  Alto  Peru  at  the  beginning  of  the 
seventeenth  century.  Books  still  exist  in  the  libraries  of  La  Paz  which  were  printed  by 
them  on  their  own  printing  press  in  1612,  and  their  grammars  and  dictionaries  of  the  Indian 


ABOVE  THE  SNOW  LINE,  MOUNT  ILLIMANI. 


25'0 


BOLiyiA 


languages  of  Spanish  America,  North  and  South,  published  here,  are  the  earliest,  and  in 
many  cases  the  most  valuable,  in  existence.  In  some  cases  these  Christian  temples  stand 
side  by  side  with  the  ruins  of  Inca  architecture,  which  abound  not  only  on  the  islands  of  the 
lake,  but  along  its  borders.  The  sanctuary  of  Copacabana  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  on  which, 
centuries  ago,  Tupac-Inca-Yupanqui  founded  a city  for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims  who 
came  every  year  from  all  parts  of  the  Inca’s  empire  to  visit  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  and  to 
pay  homage  to  their  great  chief.  The  city  must  have  presented  a brilliant  appearance  when 
the  noble  vassals  of  the  empire,  representing  forty-two  different  tribes,  who  acknowledged 
their  spiritual  and  temporal  lord  in  the  person  of  the  Inca,  assembled  with  their  retinues  on 
the  shore  of  the  sacred  lake.  From  the  time  of  its  foundation,  this  famous  resort  became  a 
sacred  city,  enjoying  special  prerogatives  by  the  Inca’s  order.  Handsome  hotels,  called 


INCA  PALACE,  ISLAND  OF  THE  SUN,  LAKE  TITICACA. 


carpahiiasi,  were  built  here,  and  immense  storehouses  were  provided,  which  were  always 
kept  well  stocked  with  food,  so  that  the  pilgrims  should  have  no  cause  for  preoccupation 
regarding  their  material  comfort  and  well-being,  but  should  be  free  to  give  all  their  time  to 
spiritual  meditation  and  devotion.  From  the  peninsula  to  the  Islands  of  the  Sun  and  the 
Moon  it  was  but  a short  distance,  and  the  temples  and  palaces  which  adorned  these  sacred 
resorts  could  be  plainly  seen  from  the  mainland.  The  story  of  the  consecration  of  the 
temples  of  Lake  Titicaca  is  romantic  and  fascinating,  and  lends  an  especial  charm  to  the  ruins 
which  remain.  It  is  related  that  the  Inca  came  in  person  from  Cuzco,  attended  by  his 
nobles  and  vassals,  to  perform  the  ceremony,  fasting  a whole  year  from  the  use  of  meat  and 
aji,  and  holding  secret  conferences  with  a spirit  from  the  other  world,  who  had  been  sent 
to  him  by  his  father  the  Sun.  Many  priests  and  more  than  a hundred  virgins  were  conse- 
crated to  the  service  of  the  temple,  and  immense  sums  were  levied  in  tribute  on  the  vassals 


LAKE  TITICACA  AND  ITS  LEGENDS 


2^1 

of  the  empire.  Animals  were  sacrificed  on  the  sacred  rock  of  tlie  Sun,  and  precious  stones, 
gold,  silver,  and  the  fruits  of  the  earth  were  afterward  showered  on  the  spot  in  adoration  of 
the  great  deity.  Finally,  on  the  altar  of  the  Sun  was  laid  a huge  gold  disk,  the  image 
of  the  Sun,  and  on  the  altar  of  the  Moon  was  placed  the  circular  emblem  of  that  sphere 
in  silver.  With  these  and  minor  ceremonies  the  islands  were  dedicated,  one  to  the  Sun, 
the  other  to  the  Moon,  both  of  which  were  worshipped  as  progenitors  of  the  divinely 
descended  Incas. 

Lake  Titicaca  possesses  a remarkable  variety  of  claims  to  general  interest,  its  natural 
scenery  being  only  one  of  many  charming  attractions.  Scientists  find  the  study  of  its 
formation  and  the  investigation  of  its  wonderful  ruins  a fascinating  subject.  Travellers  of 
romantic  temperament  are  enchanted  by  its  legends  and  traditions,  apart  from  any  historical 
significance  they  may  possess  or  any  relation  they  may  bear  to  scientific  facts.  The  more 
practical  and  matter-of-fact  visitors  to  this  wonderful  spot  see  in  it  the  glorious  possibilities 
of  modern  development,  and  are  no  less  cielighted  at  the  unlimited  prospect  it  presents  as  a 
great  entrepot  for  the  distribution  of  traffic  throughout  a vast  territory  hitherto  closed  to  out- 
side communication.  To  everyone  it  presents  an  aspect  different  from  any  other  lake  in  the 
world.  Its  situation  is  unique,  the  towns  on  its  borders  are  not  like  lake  villages  elsewhere, 
its  people  are  distinct  in  character  and  feature  even  from  their  neighbors  a few  leagues  distant, 
and  its  native  boats,  the  curious-looking  lulsas,  are  not  quite  like  those  of  other  waters. 
They  are  made  of  reeds  or  rushes,  called  totora,  found  growing  near  the  banks,  which  are 
first  woven  into  watertight  rolls  and  then  bound  together  with  an  extra  roll  at  the  top  to  serve 
as  a protection.  They  have  broad,  flat  sails,  also  of  reeds,  and  are  pushed  through  the  water 
by  means  of  a long  pole.  They  formerly  carried  a great  deal  of  freight  between  the  lake  ports, 
but  since  the  inauguration  of  the  present  steamship  line  they  are  used  only  by  the  Indians. 
It  is  entertaining  to  look  at  them  as  they  float  idly  on  the  water,  with  their  miscellaneous 
cargoes  of  chiinos,  llamas,  and  Indians,  or  scud  before  a sharp  breeze  with  astonishing 
rapidity.  They  are  managed  with  great  dexterity:  and  as  the  Indian  is  a good  weather 
prophet,  he  is  seldom  wrecked,  though  the  storms  on  the  lake  are  at  times  very  destructive. 
Professor  A.  F.  Bandolier,  of  the  Hispanic  Society  of  America,  New  York,  spent  several 
months  on  the  islands  of  Lake  Titicaca  studying  their  archmology,  and  he  gives  a very 
interesting  description  of  the  natural  phenomena  of  the  lake:  “During  winter  the  sky  is 
mostly  of  an  intense  blue,  the  air  chilling,  while  the  sun’s  rays  scorch  and  burn  the  face  and 
hands.  Still,  thunderstorms  occur  every  month,  and  snowfalls  are  not  uncommon.  In 
summer  a lowering  sky  often  covers  the  mountain  ranges,  thunderstorms  are  of  almost 
daily  occurrence,  thunderbolts  very  frequent,  and  waterspouts  not  rare.  We  saw  two 
together,  in  the  middle  of  the  lake,  and  reliable  informers  state  that  as  many  as  five  have 
been  observed  at  the  same  time.  During  tempestuous  nights  St.  Elmo’s  fire  gleams  on  the 
steamers’  masts.  And  yet,  rare  is  the  evening  when,  for  a few  hours  at  least,  the  Bolivian 
cordillera  does  not  shine  out,  even  if  thin  vapor  rises  before  it  from  the  deep  gorges  at  its 
foot,  and  seldom  is  the  whole  chain,  from  the  Carabaya  range  in  the  north  to  Illimani  in  the 


2^2 


BOLIVIA 


south,  completely  shrouded.  In  August  when  winter  is  at  its  height  and  the  skies  are 
cloudless,  the  Bolivian  Andes  display  an  Alpine  glow  of  unrivalled  splendor.” 

Whatever  secrets  the  islands  and  rivers  of  Lake  Titicaca  conceal  in  their  mysterious 
past,  science  will  no  doubt  bring  them  to  light  some  day,  when  the  spirit  of  modern 
progress  directs  the  study  of  their  origin  and  history  with  more  interest  than  at  present. 
It  seems  incredible  that  in  this  advanced  age  there  should  exist  a region  so  rich  in  scientific 
problems  and  so  generally  unknown  to  scholars.  The  few  who  have  visited  its  shores  and 
studied  on  its  islands  have  found  material  for  wide  speculation,  and  have  expressed  very 
conflicting  theories  concerning  its  antiquity.  But  all  have  agreed  as  to  the  many  attractions 
offered  by  this  picturesque  lake  to  the  traveller,  whether  tourist  or  scientist:  and  as  the 
South  American  route  grows  more  popular,  Swiss  lakes  and  Scottish  highlands  will  be 
neglected  for  the  more  marvellous  charms  of  Lake  Titicaca. 


INDIAN  PADDLING  HIS  "BALSA”  ON  LAKE  TITICACA. 


EXCAVATION  IN  PROGI^ESS,  SHOWING  CARVINGS,  TIAHUANACO 


CHAPTER  XV 


riAHUANACO— COLOSSAL  REMAINS  OF  ANCIENT  CIVILIZATION 


“ Wlien  the  Memnonium  was  in  all  Its  glory, 
And  time  had  not  begun  to  overthrow 
Those  palaces  and  piles  stupendous, 

Of  which  the  very  ruins  are  tremendous ! ” 


T' 


'HE  traveller’s  famous  soliloquy  in  the  presence 
of  the  mummy  of  Thebes  comes  to  mind  as 
one  contemplates  the  giant  walls  and  huge  mono- 
liths of  Tiahuanaco,  which,  so  far  as  science  has 
been  able  to  discover,  was  in  the  height  of  its  splen- 
dor when  Baalbec  and  Luxor  were  new,  and  before 
King  Solomon  had  built  his  wonderful  temple. 

Who  were  the  architects  and  builders  of  these 
palaces  and  temples?  And  whence  came  the  colos- 
sal blocks  of  granite  to  construct  them  in  the  midst 
of  what  is  now  a level  plateau  ? One  looks  help- 
lessly at  the  hieroglyphics,  to  which  no  key  has 
yet  been  found,  and  is  informed  only  that  scien- 
tists have  discovered  in  these  picture  writings  the 
popular  worship  of  a great  deity,  Viracocha,  who 
was  the  god  of  the  ancient  builders.  As  repre- 
sented in  the  carvings  on  the  temple  doorway, 
Viracocha  holds  in  each  hand  a sceptre, — or,  is  it 
a key,  symbolic  of  his  possessing  the  innermost 
treasures  of  the  secret  chambers  of  wisdom  ? Viracocha,  according  to  the  traditions  that 
prevail  among  the  Aymara  Inhabitants  of  this  region,  was  not  a war  god,  but  a wise  and 
beneficent  deity  who,  rising  out  of  waters  of  Lake  Titicaca,  created  the  sun,  the'  moon, 
and  the  stars,  plants,  animals,  and  men,  and  who  made  his  omnipotence  felt  throughout  the 


A VASE  FOUND  AT  TIAHUANACO.  OF 
EXQUISITE  COLORS. 


2^6 


BOLIVIA 


world  by  performing  deeds  of  great  wisdom.  The  two  sceptres  differ  in  form  and  appear- 
ance. Some  autliorities  believe  that  they  symbolize  the  double  sovereignty  of  Viracocha 
over  the  religious  and  political  destinies  of  the  people.  The  half-kneeling  figures  which 
surround  him  have  the  attitude  of  rulers  rendering  homage  to  their  greater  chief,  not  in 
abject  obeisance,  but  with  head  erect,  bending  only  one  knee,  and  holding  a sceptre. 
Perhaps  they  represent  the  kingdoms  of  the  earth,  or  political  sovereignty,  inferior  only 
to  the  Omnipotence  that  rules  both  heaven  and  earth.  In  the  opinion  of  many  students, 
the  carving  on  the  great  doorway  is  to  be  interpreted  as  picturing  the  adoration  of  the  god 
Viracocha  by  his  angels,  an  idea  that  would  give  their  sceptres  a religious  rather  than  a 
political  significance.  In  any  case,  the  hieroglyphics  show  nothing  suggestive  of  war,  so 
notable  a feature  of  Egyptian  carvings. 

It  seems  incredible  that  a people  who  were  sufficiently  advanced  in  culture  to  build 
such  stupendous  works  of  architecture  as  those  of  Tiahuanaco,  and  to  whom  the  art  of 
picture  writing  was  known,  should  have  left  no  trace  of  their  existence  in  the  historical 
records  of  antiquity.  The  legends  of  a “ lost  Atlantis ” and  a “lost  Lemuria”  may  yet  be 
accounted  for  by  the  complete  change  which  has  apparently  been  wrought  on  the  American 
continent,  at  some  period,  through  a cataclysm  which  left  only  a few  vestiges  of  anterior 
civilization  in  this  part  of  the  world.  Whether  the  destructive  action  originated  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  from  the  same  centre  of  disturbance  as  that  which  at  some  time  in  geologic  history 
Lipheaved  the  Andes  in  America  and  built  the  chain  of  volcanoes  that  extends  all  the  way 
from  New  Zealand  to  Kamtchatka  in  the  Orient,  or  whether  the  change  was  wrought  on  the 
Atlantic  side,  the  proofs  seem  equally  well  established  that  closer  communication  once  existed 
between  America  and  the  Eastern  Hemisphere.  The  liability  of  the  earth  to  volcanic  and 
seismic  disturbances,  at  least  within  the  records  of  modern  times,  has  been  more  pronounced 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean  than  in  the  Atlantic:  and  the  ancient  ruins  in  the  scattered  islands  of  the 
Pacific,  their  great  monoliths  and  curious  hieroglyphics,  appear  to  afford  more  evidences  of 
such  a change  than  anything  so  far  discovered  in  the  Atlantic.  According  to  the  best  scientific 
authorities,  the  origin  of  these  monuments  may  be  even  more  remote  than  those  of  Egypt, 
since  nothing  exists  to  prove  their  exact  antiquity.  Archreologists  may  yet  find  proofs  that 
the  earliest  civilization  on  the  globe  had  its  chief  centre  in  America,  and  that  its  people 
were  the  ancestors,  not  the  descendants,  of  Asiatic  races. 

The  origin  of  the  word  Tiahuanaco  is  a disputed  question,  as  is  everything  else  which 
relates  to  this  locality.  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega  derives  it  from  two  Quichua  words,  tiav, 
hiniiiaco,  meaning  “sit  down,  huanaco,”  and  says  it  originated  in  an  exclamation  of  the  Inca 
Maita-Ccapac  to  his  fleet-footed  messenger.  It  is  more  reasonable  to  suppose  that  the  name 
is  Aymara,  from  //j,  meaning  “border”  or  “bank,”  and  hiiauaco,  meaning  “dried,”  equivalent 
to  “ dried  bank.”  Many  other  interpretations  are  given.  Archbishop  Taborga,  in  a scholarly 
study  of  the  word,  derives  it  neither  from  the  Quichua  nor  the  Aymara,  but  from  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Mayas  of  Yucatan,  according  to  which  it  would  mean  “the  country  above 
the  waters  of  the  omnipotent  God.”  One  authority  says  an  analysis  of  the  word  proves  the 


IIAHUANACO 


2^7 


repetition  ten  times  of  the  word  “water.”  According  to  Dr.  Escobari,  a learned  philologist 
who  has  made  a special  study  of  the  Aymara  language,  the  word  is  composed  of  three  words, 
thla-wdtia-haka,  which  mean  “the  man  of  the  dry  coast.”  Another  derivation  is  secured 
by  the  elision  of  the  first  syllable  of  inti,  meaning  “sun,”  which  results  in  Ti-wuan-hake, 
“the  city  of  the  Children  of  the  Sun.”  A Bolivian  linguist.  Dr.  Emeterio  Vilamil,  believes 
the  word  comes  from  77',  which  is  a variation  of  Tien  of  China,  Teotl  of  Mexico,  and  Theos 
of  the  Greeks,  with  the  following  syllables  making  Ti-wan-aca,  “this  is  of  God.”  The 
best  authorities  say  the  name  was  suggested  by  some  great  deluge. 

In  the  many  legends  and  traditions  attributed  to  the  people  who  built  Tiahuanaco  the 
predominating  feature  is  the  account  of  a great  hood ; and  a German  astronomer  who  visited 
these  interesting  ruins  some  years  ago  believes  Viracocha  to  be  a god  of  the  deluge.  He 
says  of  the  hieroglyphics  which  adorn  the  fapade  of  the  temple:  “In  these  figures  it  is 
necessary  to  distinguish  two  things,  the  allegory  itself  and  the  other  drawings,  which  at  first 
sight  appear  to  be  merely  symmetrical  adornments.  The  allegory  represents  the  figure  of  a 
man  or  god,  who  holds  in  each  hand  a symbol  that  expresses  the  uniting  of  the  attribute  of 
lightning  with  the  downpour  of  rain.  From  his  eyes  fall  teardrops,  but  in  combination  with 
the  sign  of  lightning.  His  head  is  encircled  in  rays,  which  are  not  rays  of  light,  but  signs 
of  lightning  and  rain  being  discharged  simultaneously.  All  the  adornments  of  his  clothing 
show  the  symbol  of  water;  and  even  the  head  is  not  round,  but  has  the  shape  of  a letter 
or  character  which  signifies  ‘water.’  In  the  middle  of  the  figure  and  on  the  head  is  clearly 
shown  the  drawing  of  a ship,  which  is  again  seen  in  the  centre  of  the  hieroglyphic  under 
the  feet.  This  figure  does  not  merely  speak,  but  cries  out  with  a clear  voice,  comprehensible 
to  all  the  world,  that  it  is  not  an  insignificant  matter  that  is  here  treated,  something  of 
indifferent  importance  for  history,  but  that  it  is  an  effort  to  narrate  to  posterity  a great  fact 
worthy  of  remembrance,  a marvellous  phenomenon  of  nature,  the  phenomenon  of  extraor- 
dinary rains  with  thunder  and  lightning,  and  of  a catastrophe  which  occurred  not  only  in 
this  region  but  throughout  the  world.” 

It  must  be  confessed  that  it  requires  a great  stretch  of  the  imagination  to  trace  in  the 
figure  carved  over  the  doorway  of  the  ancient  temple  in  Tiahuanaco  the  symbols  of  rain  and 
lightning  referred  to,  or  even  the  drawings  of  ships;  furthermore,  the  winged  rulers  kneeling 
before  their  greater  sovereign  do  not  seem  to  bear  out  the  diluvial  idea.  But  the  study  of 
this  enigma  affords  wide  latitude  for  original  speculation,  and  the  last  word  has  not  yet  been 
said.  Archceologists  who  have  made  even  a few  excavations  find  that  the  ground  within  a 
radius  of  more  than  three  square  miles  shows  evidences  of  a buried  population ; and  to  a depth 
of  from  five  to  fifteen  feet  buried  walls,  adorned  by  images  in  relief,  have  been  unearthed, 
while  the  soil  seems  to  be  full  of  bones,  human  and  animal,  as  far  down  as  the  excavations 
have  been  made. 

If  it  was  merely  a local  deluge  that  inspired  the  traditions  of  the  ancient  inhabitants, 
such  as  the  flooding  of  the  basin  which  lies  between  the  two  ranges  of  the  Andes,  now 
known  as  the  Altaplanicie,  the  older  civilization  must  have  existed  prior  to  that  event,  and 


2^8 


BOLIVIA 


the  later  one  after  the  waters  had  begun  to  recede,  or  else  Tiahuanaco 
may  have  been  on  a peninsula  of  the  lake  submerged  for  a time. 
According  to  some  authorities  this  is  the  explanation  of  the  two  or 
three  distinct  periods  of  culture  found  in  its  ruins.  Little  has  been 
done  so  far  toward  finding  out  the  secrets  of  this  wonderful  place. 
The  Bolivian  government  has  prohibited  promiscuous  excavations, 
preferring  that  the  work  shall  be  done  systematically  on  a practical 
basis  by  experienced  archaeologists.  Formerly  Tiahuanaco  was  every- 
body’s property,  and  mammoth  rocks,  once  hewn  to  build  a temple  to 
the  ancient  deity,  were  applied  to  the  unromantic  needs  of  a country 
courthouse.  It  was  no  unusual  sight  to  observe  a shepherd  herding 
his  flock  in  a corral  made  of  the  stones  of  the  ancient  palace,  and  on 
the  road  to  La  Paz  there  still  stands  a colossal  idol,  of  frightful  mien, 
which  serves  to  mark  the  distance  in  leagues  from  that  spot  to  the 
city.  This  figure  was  to  have  been  taken  to  the  museum,  but  for 
some  reason  the  transportation  was  interrupted.  It  will  no  doubt  be 
placed  there  soon,  as  that  institution  is  being  fitted  up  with  a most 
valuable  historical  and  scientific  collection. 

The  traveller  in  Bolivia  finds  a visit  to  Tiahuanaco  both  instructive 
and  entertaining.  The  trains  which  run  daily  between  La  Paz  and 

Guaqui  stop  so  close  to  the 
famous  ruins  that  one  of  the 
ancient  rocks  stands  directly 
in  the  way  as  the  passenger 
alights  from  the  car.  It  is  a 
great  square  slab,  apparently 
intended  to  be  used  in  the 
construction  of  one  of  the  un- 
finished temples  or  palaces, 
or  as  a sacrificial  stone,  but 
was  left  in  this  spot,  as  simi- 
lar huge  rocks  were,  either 
abandoned  because  of  some 
great  calamity,  or  forgotten 
during  the  sudden  onslaught 
of  an  enemy  who  drove  the 
workmen  from  the  scene, 
never  to  return.  Indeed, 

much  of  tlie  architecture  of  Tiahuanaco  represents  unfinished  temples  and  palaces.  The 
iTKjst  conspicuous  rock  is  that  of  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  as  the  great  doorway  of  the  temple  is 


MONOI.ITH  SHOWING  HIEROGLYPHICS,  TIAHUANACO. 


TIAHUANACO 


2^9 


called,  meaning  “door  of  the  sun,’’  its  hieroglyphics  being  especially  interesting.  It  measures 
ten  feet  in  height,  thirteen  feet  in  width,  and  nearly  two  feet  in  thickness,  and  its  weight  is 


RUINS  OF  THE  DOORWAY  OF  THE  TEMPLE,  TIAHUANACO. 


about  ten  tons.  The  carving  of  the  design  on  its  face  is  only  partly  finished,  showing  a 
space  where  the  artist  had  made  merely  the  outlines  of  the  design,  and  at  which  he  was 
evidently  working  when  the  place  was  suddenly  abandoned.  Colossal  blocks  of  stone  lie 
scattered  about,  some  of  which  are  estimated  as  weighing  not  less  than  a thousand  tons. 
The  rock  used  for  the  foundations  of  the  palace  Tunca  Punco,  for  the  obelisks,  and  for  the 
largest  of  the  columns  of  this  great  structure,  is  porphyry  of  fne  grain,  of  red-brown  color, 
with  small  white  spots,  and  of  parallel  structure.  Quartz  porphyry  is  by  no  means  rare  in 
this  neighborhood.  It  is  the  opinion  of  the  best  authorities  that  these  rocks  were  brought 
from  a hill  five  miles  away  by  the  same  system  of  inclined  planes  as  that  used  by  the 
Egyptians  in  transporting  heavy  stones  for  their  pyramids  and  temples.  The  process  of 
dividing  these  huge  masses  of  rock  is  supposed  to  have  been  by  the  expansive  action 
of  water  on  wooden  wedges.  Senor  Don  Arturo  Posnansky,  of  the  Geographic  Society  of 
La  Paz,  who  has  made  the  Tiahuanaco  stones  a special  study  for  several  years,  and  whose 
splendid  photographs  of  this  interesting  place  are  reproduced  in  this  chapter,  finds  that 
many  of  the  monoliths  of  Puma  Punco,  the  locality  in  which  stands  the  carved  doorway  of 
the  temple,  are  made  of  volcanic  lava.  He  gives  an  entertaining  explanation  of  their  origin 
and  the  process  of  formation:  “The  material  was  probably  brought  from  the  Cerro  de  Japia, 


26o 


BOLIVIA 


an  extinct  volcano  situated  on  the  Isthmus  of  Yunguyo,  where  the  peninsula  of  Copacabana 
joins  the  mainland,  about  fifty  miles  distant  from  Tiahuanaco.  The  founders  of  the  ancient 
city  made  use  of  the  liquid  lava  of  this  volcano,  which  was  at  that  time  in  eruption,  bringing 
it,  by  means  of  canals,  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  it  flowed  into  earthen  moulds,  a 
primitive  method  employed  to-day  in  the  moulding  of  liquid  iron.  In  Tiahuanaco  are  found 
moulds  which  indicate  that  they  were  used  for  casting  the  idols,  their  outlines  having  the 
same  appearance  as  those  which  are  now  used  in  casting  iron.” 

There  is  something  intensely  interesting  in  the  aspect  of  these  colossal  ruins,  from 
whatever  standpoint  they  are  viewed.  Speculation  as  to  the  probable  uses  for  which  this 
or  that  block  was  intended  has  resulted  in  the  popular  naming  of  each  of  these  huge  pieces. 

“The  Inca’s  writing  desk”  is 
the  name  given  to  a cyclopean 
cube,  which  is  carved  as  if  for 
the  purpose  of  holding  writing 
materials,  and  other  accessories 
of  the  writing  table.  There  is 
also  “the  Inca’s  bath,”  the  table 
of  the  officiating  authority  in 
the  Palace  of  Justice,  the  grand 
stairway  to  the  throne  room  of 
the  great  palace,  and  a num- 
ber of  other  furnishings,  any 
of  which  would  he  worthy  of 
adorning  the  colossal  ancient 
palaces  of  Egypt,  from  their 
size  and  the  finished  style  of 
their  architecture.  So  wonder- 
ful is  the  perfection  of  these 
stones,  the  apparently  carefully 
chiselled  outlines,  the  exquisite 
carvings,  the  well  polished  sur- 
faces, that  the  best  sculptor  of 
our  day,  making  use  of  the 
finest  steel  chisels  and  other 
instruments,  could  not  improve 
upon  the  work.  It  is,  of  course, 
only  by  popular  use  that  the 
name  of  the  Inca  has  been 
associated  witli  these  remains,  as  it  is  known  that  the  Incas  who  first  visited  CoIIasuyo 
found  these  monumental  ruins  in  the  same  condition  as  they  are  at  present. 


ARCHED  GATEWAYS  OF  TIAHUANACO. 


TIAHUANACO 


261 


The  general  view  of  Tia- 
huanaco  shows  that  one  of  its 
most  conspicuous  features  is 
an  artificial  hill,  which  is  built 
on  a base  made  of  huge  rocks 
cut  and  squared,  and  which 
rises  to  a height  of  fifty  feet, 
being  about  six  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  in  length  and  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  width. 

It  is  built  in  three  terraces,  su- 
perposed concentrically.  This 
hill,  or  cenv,  stands  between 
the  colossal  sculptures  of 
Tunca  Punco  on  one  side  and 
the  massive,  carved  doorway, 
and  neighboring  idols  of  Puma 
Punco.  The  purpose  of  the 
cerw  is  not  known,  though  it  is 
believed  by  some  authorities  to  have  been  built  as  an  inclined  plane  to  be  used  in  hoisting 
the  huge  rocks  into  place  on  the  walls  of  the  palace,  having  lost  its  original  form  in  conse- 
quence of  the  many  changes  that  succeeding  ages  have  wrought.  Others  think  it  may  be  a 
burial  place  of  the  ancient  kings. 

Over  the  entire  area  are  to  be  seen  the  beginnings  of  various  structures,  and  at  the  base 
of  the  great  carved  doorway  of  the  temple  recent  excavations  have  been  made  which  add 


PORTAL  OF  A CHURCH,  TIAHUANACO. 


CYCLOPEAN  STONES  OF  TUNCA  PUNCO,  TIAHUANACO 


262 


BOLIVIA 


another  element  of  mystery  to  this  archaeological  problem  of  the  West.  The  huge  idols,  of 
which  there  are  several,  made  in  human  form  and  measuring  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in 
height  in  standing  posture,  occupy  a prominent  place  in  the  ruins.  They  are  curious-looking 
figures,  more  primitively  fashioned  than  the  ancient  Egyptian  idols,  and  bearing  some  resem- 
blance to  the  monuments  of  Easter  Island,  in  the  South  Pacific,  the  shape  of  the  head  and 
character  of  the  features  suggesting  those  crude  relics  of  antiquity.  But  the  Tiahuanaco 
figures  are  better  carved  than  the  Easter  Island  idols,  and  show  many  hieroglyphics  on  the 
arms  and  on  the  cincture  around  the  body.  Curiosity  makes  the  study  of  these  enigmatical 

signs  a fascinating  pastime,  and  any  day 
a group  may  be  seen  making  an  effort  at 
the  interpretation  of  this  wonderful  lan- 
guage. It  does  not  seem  reasonable  to 
suppose  that  they  mean  nothing  more 
than  adornment,  since  primitive  people 
of  all  races  have  attached  the  greatest 
importance  to  the  written  sign,  and  rarely 
carved  anything  on  the  rocks  which  was 
not  intended  to  serve  the  purpose  of 
chronology.  The  preservation  of  rec- 
ords is  such  a marked  tendency  among 
all  human  beings  that  the  least  cultured 
savage  can  tell  something  about  the 
achievements  of  his  ancestors.  What 
more  natural  than  that  the  hieroglyphics 
on  these  idols  should  have  been  carved 
there  to  relate  deeds  of  valor  or  of  wis- 
dom performed  by  the  great  personages 
in  whose  honor  they  were  set  up?  In 
front  of  the  doorway  of  the  church  in  the 
plaza  of  Tiahuanaco  two  idols  in  sitting 
posture  at  once  attract  attention,  seeming 

ANCIENT  DOORWAY,  CARVED  OUT  OF  SOLID  ROCK.  TIAHUANACO. 

to  symbolize  the  harmony  between  the 
old  religion  and  the  new,  and  testifying,  with  silent  eloquence,  to  the  universal  character  of 
the  Christian  faith,  in  which  all  beliefs  are  spiritualized  and  given  a more  lofty  significance. 
No  doubt,  these  chiselled  figures  were  originally  designed  to  adorn  the  altar  of  the  ancient 
pagan  temple,  and  perhaps  they  were  to  have  had  a place  near  the  throne  of  the  great 
Viracocha.  The  idols  standing  in  the  square  beyond  the  temple  doorway  were  probably 
also  intended  to  occupy  important  niches  in  the  palace  or  the  temple. 

The  builders  of  Tiahuanaco  have  left  the  usual  signs  of  their  culture  in  pottery,  woven 
cloths,  metal  implements,  and  similar  articles.  Tlie  visitor  to  Tiahuanaco  to-day  is  pressed 


TIAHUANACO 


263 


by  a little  barefooted  Indian  of  the  Aymaras  to  buy  a hiiaca  as  a souvenir:  and  in  the  midst 
of  the  most  sentimental  reverie,  during  which  the  imagination  may  be  travelling  into  realms  of 
the  past  with  a free  rein,  stimulated  by  the  inspiration  of  these  colossal  relics,  it  is  not  un- 
usual to  be  interrupted  with:  Sefiom,  cincuenta  centavos  no  mas  para  iina  hnaca  ricay  fina! 
— “Only  fifty  cents,  madam,  for  a hnaca!"  As  very  few  of  these  Indians  speak  Spanish, 
the  bargaining  is  usually  done  through  an  interpreter.  But  it  is  far  more  interesting  to  find 
one’s  own  hnacas.  All  relics,  whether  of  pottery,  metal,  or  whatever  character,  are  called 
hnacas,  and  it  is  a term  so  generally  used  that  it  is  applied  to  mummies  and  burial  mounds, 
as  well  as  to  the  articles  manufactured  by  these  ancient  people.  Some  of  the  hnacas  are 
very  curiously  wrought,  and  indicate  advanced  culture  in  the  race  by  whom  they  were 
made.  Exquisite  vases 
of  a very  durable  pot- 
tery have  been  found  in 
these  ruins,  showing 
that  the  art  of  coloring 
was  possessed  to  a re- 
markable extent,  the 
process  of  which  has 
been  lost.  The  use  of 
copper  was  known,  and 
many  of  the  imple- 
ments were  made  of  this 
metal. 

But  the  predomi- 
nating question,  in  the 
presence  of  the  monu- 
ments, idols,  and  other 
emblems  of  ancient  cul- 
ture at  Tiahuanaco,  is: 

Why  did  these  builders  choose  such  a site  for  their  colossal  edifices?  As  a fortress  it 
could  have  served  little  purpose  against  invaders,  from  its  singularly  isolated  situation, 
unless  the  conditions  were  then  totally  different  from  what  they  are  now.  Apparently, 
the  palace  was  not  being  built  in  the  centre  of  any  great  population,  and  the  temple  could 
hardly  be  filled  with  worshippers  in  a region  so  unfavorable,  on  account  of  soil  and 
climate,  to  the  development  of  a rich  and  prosperous  empire.  There  is  something  indica- 
tive of  Oriental  worshippers  in  this  choice  of  a spot  removed  from  the  centres  of  political 
activity  for  the  erection  of  palaces  and  temples  for  religious  purposes.  Was  it  a holy  city, 
like  Mecca  or  Benares?  Speculation  fails  to  explain  satisfactorily  the  existence  of  these 
remarkable  ruins,  and  it  is  devoutly  to  be  hoped  that  science  will  seriously  investigate  the 
problem.  A North  American  lady,  Mrs.  Phoebe  Hearst,  has  earned  the  gratitude  of  all 


264 


BOLIVIA 


students  of  archaeology  by  devoting  a 
share  of  her  large  fortune  to  this  pur- 
pose, and  three  expeditions  have  been 
equipped  and  sent  out  to  South  Amer- 
ica through  her  generosity.  They  were 
placed  under  the  direction  of  Professor 
Max  Uhle,  a noted  archmologist,  who 
is  still  engaged  in  the  work  of  study- 
ing and  classifying  the  antiquities  of 
Bolivia  and  Peru.  A fine  collection, 
secured  during  the  frst  expedition, 
adorns  the  archaeological  department 
of  the  Museum  of  Art  and  Science  in 
Philadelphia.  From  the  second  expe- 
dition a valuable  collection  has  been 
made  for  the  museum  of  the  Univer- 
sity of  California.  The  third  expedition 
has  not  yet  completed  the  work  under- 
taken, but  there  is  every  reason  to  be- 
lieve that  the  results  will  prove  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  science.  The 
most  important  museums  of  the  world 

IDOL  OF  UNKNOWN  ANTIQUITY,  TIAHUANACO.  pOSSOSS  COlleCtiOIlS  frOOl  tllO  I'UinS  Of 

Lake  Titicaca  and  Tiahuanaco,  but  it  is 
doubtful  whether  any  other  monument  of  antiquity  presents  to  the  modern  world  a more 
difficult  enigma  than  Tiahuanaco,  the  Sphinx  of  the  Occident. 


RUINS  OF  AN  UNFINISHED  STAIRWAY,  TIAHUANACO. 


RW-. 


HARVESTING  COCA  IN  THE  YUNGAS. 


I 


CHAPTER  XVI 

THE  FERTILE  REGION  OF  THE  YUNGAS 

'^HE  famous  Yungas  of  La  Paz  is  the 
^ paradise  of  northern  Bolivia.  Nowhere 
does  Nature  smile  with  more  bewitching 
candor  than  in  these  valleys  of  magnificent 
verdure,  tlrrough  which  rippling  streams, 
and  sometimes  raging  torrents,  carry  a 
crystal  f de  down  from  the  snow  mountains 
of  the  Royal  Range  to  the  tropical  forests 
and  plains  of  the  Amazon,  bathing  a region 
rich  in  the  choicest  gifts  of  a lavish  Provi- 
dence. Nature’s  most  patrician  whims  f nd 
delicate  expression  in  the  whiff  of  perfume 
which  is  carried  on  the  breeze  from  a thou- 
sand dainty  blossoms,  and  in  the  music 
trilled  by  a host  of  pretty  song  birds  from  the  recesses  of  her  wooded  dells.  The  name 
yungas  is  given  to  the  deep  valleys  which  lie  at  the  foot  of  the  snow-covered  range,  in 
the  tropical  region  where  the  temperature  never  falls  below  sixty  degrees  and  often  rises 
above  one  hundred  degrees  Fahrenheit.  The  Yungas  provinces  of  La  Paz  cover  a territory 
extending  northward  from  the  city  of  La  Paz  to  Puerto  Pando,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on 
the  Beni  tributary  of  the  Madeira,  which  is  the  chief  abluent  of  the  Amazon.  They  are  rich 
in  production,  as  well  as  enchanfng  in  scenery,  and  the  visitor  to  Bolivia  who  fails  to  see 
the  famous  Yungas,  misses  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  features  of  a trip  to  this  wonderful 
country.  The  naturalist  D’Orbigny  was  enthusiastic  in  his  praises  of  its  marvellous  attrac- 
tions, and,  in  a glowing  description  of  its  charms,  he  says:  “ If  tradition  has  lost  the  records 
of  the  place  where  paradise  was  situated,  the  traveller  who  visits  these  regions  of  Bolivia 
feels  at  once  the  impulse  to  exclaim  : ‘ Here  is  the  lost  Eden  ! ’ ” 


267 


268 


BOLIVIA 


The  eastern  slope  of  the  great  range  presents  a totally  different  aspect  from  that  of 
the  Pacific  side.  As  seen  from  the  west,  the  landscape  is  grand  and  imposing,  where  the 


COROICO,  CAPITAL  OF  NORTH  YUNGAS. 


summits  tower  above  the  surrounding  heights,  but  the  lower  levels  show  no  such  mag- 
nifcence  of  foliage  and  varied  beauty  as  the  rich  valleys  of  the  Yungas  on  the  eastern 
slopes.  One  of  the  greatest  surprises  which  the  natural  scenery  of  Bolivia  presents  is 
experienced,  when,  after  riding  over  the  bare  plateau  until  the  range  is  reached,  the  prospect 
suddenly  reveals  a scene  of  tropical  splendor,  and  out  of  the  snows  one  enters  immediately 
a valley  of  perpetual  summer.  The  rapid  scenic  transformation  is  dazzling  for  a moment, 
as  the  sight  dwells  on  the  new  panorama.  In  four  or  five  hours’  riding  it  is  possible  to 
pass  from  the  glaciers  and  the  condor’s  nest  to  sunny  canefields  and  humming  birds’ 
haunts,  and  almost  before  the  sensation  of  the  stinging  blast  and  the  cold  snows  has 
passed,  one  feels  the  midsummer  heat  and  perfumed  zephyrs  of  the  tropics.  From  icicles 
to  orange  groves  in  an  afternoon’s  pasco!  The  province  of  South  Yungas  lies  between 
the  rivers  La  Paz  and  Tamampaya,  which  join  to  form  the  Bopi  River,  a tributary  of  the 
Beni:  North  Yungas  province  lies  between  the  Bopi  and  Coroico  Rivers,  which  have  their 
confluence  at  Puerto  Pando.  Both  provinces  are  situated  in  a rich  productive  belt,  where 
coffee,  cacao,  coca,  rice,  sugar,  quinine,  and  all  tropical  fruits  and  hardwoods  in  abundance 
are  obtained.  The  celebrated  coffee  of  the  Yungas  is  considered  by  many  connoisseurs 
superior  in  quality  to  Mocha,  and  at  one  time  this  important  product  was  in  such  great 
demand  in  the  European  market  that  it  sold  for  fifty  bolivianos  per  hundred  pounds. 
The  cultivation  of  coffee  has  been  somewhat  neglected  in  recent  years,  the  difficulties 
of  transportation  having  made  it  impossible  for  Bolivian  producers  to  meet  increasing 
competition  among  other  coffee-raising  countries.  But  the  plantations  of  Chulumani,  the 


THE  FERTILE  REGION  OF  THE  YUNG  AS 


269 


capital  of  South  Yungas,  and  of  Coroico,  the  chief  city  of  North  Yungas,  are  still  in  a 
flourishing  condition. 

Chulumani,  a town  of  five  thousand  inhabitants,  occupies  a singularly  picturesque  site 
on  a tributary  of  the  La  Paz  River,  at  an  altitude  of  about  six  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 
Not  only  is  it  the  centre  of  a rich  coffee  district,  but  on  the  surrounding  plantations  are 
cultivated  cacao  and  sugar  cane,  the  neighboring  districts  produce  quinine,  coca,  and  vanilla, 
and  rich  cabinet  woods  are  found  here  in  abundance.  Gold  is  taken  from  the  river  in 
considerable  quantities,  by  the  method  of  placer  mining  which  is  generally  followed  in  all 
Bolivian  gold  fields. 

No  product  is  more  highly  prized  by  the  Indian  than  the  coca.  He  chews  the  leaves 
as  people  of  other  countries  chew  tobacco,  and  there  is  seldom  a moment  when  he  does 
not  have  a roll  of  the  precious  stimulant  in  his  mouth.  He  will  go  days  without  food  and 
perform  marvellous  feats  of  endurance,  often  running  fifty  miles  or  more  during  a day, 
provided  he  has  his  little  pouch  of  coca  leaves,  which  he  sometimes  hangs  at  his  belt,  and 
at  other  times  carries  in  the  crown  of  his  cap.  His  staple  food  is  parched  Indian  corn, 
and  with  his  corn  and  his  coca  the  Indian  is  contented.  As  coca  is  the  plant  from  which 
cocaine  is  manufactured,  it  is  needless  to  explain  that  the  Indian  uses  the  leaves  as  a 
stimulant.  So  constantly  does  he  resort  to  its  use,  that  without  this  artificial  aid,  he  is  not 
able  to  work  nearly  so  well,  but  grows  apathetic  and  dull  over  his  tasks.  When  the  coca 
habit  is  indulged  to  excess  the  effect  is  very  injurious.  It  is  an  evil  which  stands  greatly  in 


PRINCIPAL  PLAZA  OF  COROICO,  NORTH  YUNGAS. 


the  way  of  the  Indian’s  mental  and  moral  development,  but  so  fixed  is  the  practice  that 
there  is  little  prospect  of  its  being  abandoned.  The  coca  plant  grows  abundantly  in  the 


BOLIVIA 


270 

tropical  regions  of  Bolivia  and  Peru,  attaining  a height  of  from  two  to  eight  feet,  according 
to  the  locality.  Its  leaves  resemble  bay  leaves.  It  grows  best  at  an  altitude  of  from  two 


CHULUMANI,  CAPITAL  OF  SOUTH  YUNGAS. 


thousand  to  five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level  and  produces  three  crops  annually.  Three- 
fourths  of  the  coca  grown  in  Bolivia  is  cultivated  in  the  Yungas  of  La  Paz,  the  remainder 
coming  from  neighboring  provinces  and  from  the  Yungas,  popularly  called  the  Yuracares,  of 
Cochabamba.  The  total  production  of  all  the  cocalcs,  or  coca  plantations,  in  Bolivia  is  about 
eight  million  pounds  annually,  amounting  in  value  to  three  and  one-half  million  bolivianos. 
For  the  privilege  of  gathering  the  coca  the  Bolivian  government  collects  a tax  of  two  hundred 
and  f fty  thousand  bolivianos  annually.  A duty  of  two  bolivianos  per  hundred  pounds  is 
paid  in  La  Paz  on  exportation.  Indians  are  employed  to  gather  the  coca  and  to  carry  it  to 
the  nearest  station  for  shipment,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  these  human  freight  carriers, 
loaded  so  heavily  that  only  their  legs  are  visible  under  the  huge  bundles  of  coca,  slowly 
making  their  way  through  the  forests.  The  cocalcs  of  Chulumani,  Irupana,  Chupe,  Chirca, 
and  other  towns  of  South  Yungas  will  be  within  convenient  shipping  distance  from  the 
proposed  railway  now  under  construction  from  La  Paz  to  Puerto  Pando.  Two  routes  for 
this  railway  have  been  surveyed,  one  of  which  goes  through  Obrajes  and  past  the  flourishing 
town  of  Palca,  entering  the  Yungas  where  the  La  Paz  River  flows  through  an  opening  in  the 
Andes  range,  and  following  the  margin  of  that  river  and  the  Bopi  to  its  northern  terminus. 
The  other  route  crosses  the  range  and  enters  North  Yungas  at  Unduavi,  passing  through 
Coroico,  Unduavi,  Coripata,  and  other  North  Yungas  towns. 


THE  FERTILE  REGION  OF  THE  YUNG  AS 


271 


Coroico,  the  capital  of  North  Yungas,  is  a prosperous  little  city  of  five  thousand  inhab- 
itants. It  is  beautifully  located  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  at  an  altitude  of  seven 
thousand  feet,  and  is  the  centre  of  a rich  agricultural  region.  Flourishing  fields  of  corn,  rice, 
and  sugar  cane  are  numerous  in  the  vicinity,  the  corn  growing  on  the  uplands,  while  the 
sugar  cane  and  rice  are  cultivated  close  to  the  river  bank.  Quinine,  or  cascarilla,  is  exported 
in  large  quantities  from  North  Yungas,  where  the  cinchona  tree  grows  in  abundance.  The 
bark  from  which  the  quinine  is  extracted  is  thick  and  reddish  in  appearance,  and  is  shipped 
in  small  pieces  just  as  it  comes  from  the  tree.  It  is  found  in  several  departments  of  Bolivia, 
on  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Andes,  where  vast  regions  contain  hosqucs,  or  woods,  of 
cinchona  trees  which  remain  untouched  for  lack  of  facilities  to  transport  the  precious 
product  to  the  shipping  centres.  The  quinine  of  Challana,  a town  in  the  neighboring 
province  of  Larecaja,  is  the  best  in  quality,  a hundred  pounds  of  bark  yielding  forty-eight 
ounces  of  sulphate.  The  great  rubber-producing  region  of  Bolivia  extends  as  far  south  as 
North  Yungas  and  Larecaja,  in  the  department  of  La  Paz,  a considerable  amount  of  rubber 
being  shipped  from  Coroico,  Songo,  Challana,  Mapiri,  and  Huanay  through  Puerto  Perez  on 
Lake  Titicaca  to  Puno  and  thence  to  Mollendo. 

There  are  few  products  of  any  zone  which  are  not  to  be  found  in  the  Yungas  of  La  Paz. 
It  is  the  rich  storehouse  from  which  La  Paz  is  supplied  daily  with  the  necessities  and  luxuries 


INDIAN  COCA  GATHERERS  IN  THE  YUNGAS. 


of  the  table,  and  there  are  no  better  cereals,  vegetables,  and  fruits  than  those  grown  in  these 
fertile  valleys.  Yet  the  vast  resources  of  this  region  are  still  comparatively  unknown,  and 


272 


BOLiyiA 


many  of  its  valuable  products  are  neglected,  which,  if  cultivated,  would  prove  an  important 
source  of  revenue.  An  effort  is  being  made  by  those  particularly  interested  in  this  part  of 


A CALLAPO.  OR  RAPT,  ON  THE  RIVER  LOAYZA,  REGION  OF  THE  YUNGAS. 


Bolivia  to  promote  the  cultivation  of  its  natural  products  on  a larger  scale  than  formerly,  and 
a thorough  study  is  being  made  of  its  flora  with  this  end  in  view. 

The  attention  of  agriculturists  has  recently  been  called  to  a very  nutritious  plant,  which 
is  supposed  to  be  indigenous  to  the  Yungas,  and  which  the  Indians  call  jamacch'ppckc,  an 
Aymara  word  meaning  “bird’s  head,”  which  was  given  because  the  bulbous  roots  resemble 
the  head  and  beak  of  a bird.  The  natives  eat  it  as  a delicacy,  and  it  is  used  as  an  article  of 
food  on  many  of  the  plantations  of  the  Yungas,  its  starchy  properties  making  it  a substitute 
for  milk  when  boiled  with  sugar  and  water.  It  is  said  to  be  extremely  efficacious  as  a 
food  for  invalids,  and  in  the  orphan  hospitals  of  the  Yungas  it  is  used  in  feeding  even  the 
youngest  babies.  This  product  is  prepared  by  first  crushing  the  bulbs  on  flat  stones,  then 
washing  and  drying  them  in  the  sun,  a process  by  which  all  the  water  is  drawn  out  and 
the  starch  remains.  It  is  said  that  eighty  per  cent  of  this  remarkable  tubercle  is  starch. 
A Bolivian  writer  on  the  subject  says:  “The  starchy  quality  of  this  bulb  is  unknown  to 
botanists,  and  up  to  the  present  time  it  has  not  been  well  described  or  classified.  Not  the 
slightest  information  regarding  it  is  to  be  found  in  any  book  on  South  American  flora,  or  in 
the  works  of  the  great  botanists  of  the  world.  The  jamacch'ppcke  is  a herbaceous  plant 
which  seldom  grows  beyond  four  feet  in  height.  It  lives  in  the  shade  of  trees  and  bushes. 


THE  FERTILE  REGION  OE  THE  YUNG  AS 


273 


and  on  the  plantations  where  it  is  cultivated  in  the  Yungas  it  is  usually  grown  between 
rows  of  trees  in  the  cocales  and  caf dales.  It  has  a beautiful  flower  of  bright  yellow  color, 
and  of  the  form  peculiar  to 
orchidic  plants.  Its  fruit  is  a 
membranous  capsule,  the  tiny 
seeds  of  which  are  preserved 
and  planted  to  produce  a new 
crop  of  jainaccli'ppdie.  Noth- 
ing more  clearly  proves  the 
neglect  which  this  wonderful 
plant  has  suffered  at  the  hands 
of  the  Yungas  agriculturists 
than  the  fact  that  they  have 
not  renamed  it.  The  Boliv- 
ian writer  referred  to  sug- 
gests “Orchis,”  as  it  appears 
to  bear  a close  resemblance  to 
the  Orchis  Morio  of  Linnmus. 

The  medicinal  plants  of  the  Yungas  and  other  provinces  of  the  department  of  La  Paz 
have  been  classified  and  their  uses  specified.  From  the  list  published  by  Sehor  Don 
Belisario  Diaz  Romero,  of  the  Geographic  Society  of  La  Paz,  it  is  seen  that  out  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-two  medicinal  plants  the  majority  may  be  found  in  the  provinces 

of  North  and  South  Yungas. 
The  classification  was  originally 
made  by  Dr.  Nicanor  Itur- 
ralde,  and  includes  the  phar- 
macopceia  of  the  callagi/aras, 
or  Aymara  Indian  doctors  of 
these  regions.  The  greatest 
difficulty  was  experienced  in 
securing  the  list,  as  the  Indian 
doctors  carefully  guard  the 
secrets  of  their  cures,  and 
their  people  will  never  reveal 
anything  which  might  come 
to  their  knowledge  by  acci- 
dent regarding  the  mysterious 
plants  used  by  their  medicine 
chiefs.  The  Aymara  doctors  have  learned  the  curative  properties  of  many  more  plants 
than  those  in  the  classified  list:  and  though  their  system  of  cures  is  not  always  to  be 


k 


PALCA.  ON  THE  ROUTE  TO  THE  YUNGAS. 


BRIDGE  OVER  THE  RIVER  LOAYZA,  IN  THE  YUNGAS 


274 


BOLIVIA 


recommended,  every  traveller  who  has  been  in  the  interior  knows  that  they  have  many 
excellent  remedies. 

Vegetation  of  every  description  grows  in  riotous  abundance  in  the  fertile  valleys  of  the 
Yungas,  where  the  upper  tributaries  of  the  great  Amazon  River  are  fed  from  a thousand 
streams  that  find  their  way  down  the  innumerable  crevices  of  the  Andean  range.  They 
form  a network  of  waterways  for  the  callapos,  or  rafts,  used  to  transport  cargo  in  this  region, 
and  they  serve  to  fertilize  the  entire  country  so  completely  that  every  foot  of  ground  may 
be  utilized  for  agriculture.  Here  the  Beni  River  receives  its  chief  tributary,  the  Bopi,  which 
rises  in  the  Cordillera  Real,  fifteen  miles  north  of  the  city  of  La  Paz,  flows  southward 
through  the  city,  and  waters  the  valleys  of  Sopocachi  and  Obrajes,  under  the  name  of  the 
La  Paz  or  Chuquiapu  River.  A few  leagues  southeast  of  La  Paz  the  river  receives  an 
affluent  which  enters  it  from  the  north  near  the  town  of  Palca,  and  at  the  point  where  it 
crosses  the  Royal  Range  through  a deep  cut  south  of  Mount  Illimani,  an  important  stream, 
the  Caracato,  joins  it,  in  the  province  of  Loayza.  From  this  point  the  river  turns  northward 
and  is  reinforced  by  several  tributaries,  among  others  the  Tamampaya,  Miguilla,  and  others 
with  their  many  small  affluents,  such  as  the  Loayza  and  similar  picturesque  waterways. 
Though  South  Yungas  is  watered  chiefly  by  the  Bopi,  the  valleys  of  North  Yungas  depend 
for  their  fertility  and  for  the  transportation  of  their  products  chiefly  on  the  Coroico  branch  of 
the  Beni  and  its  innumerable  small  tributaries.  Not  only  the  Yungas  provinces,  but  those 


CUTTING  SUGAR  CANE  IN  THE  YUNGAS. 


of  Inquisivi,  Larecaja,  and  Muhecas,  which  adjoin  them  and  are  sometimes  included  in  the 
general  term  of  “the  Yungas,”  are  abundantly  supplied  with  water  by  the  Beni  system. 


THE  FERTILE  REGION  OF  THE  YUNG  AS 


275 


The  Coroico  River,  which  flows  northward  from  its  source  in  the  Royal  Range,  has  many 
tributaries  navigable  for  small  boats  and  callapos.  In  North  Yungas  the  Songo  River,  on 
the  banks  of  which  are 
important  rubber  forests, 
is  one  of  the  largest 
branches  of  the  Coroico. 

The  Mapiri  flows  through 
the  province  of  Muhecas, 
and  theTipuani  and  Chal- 
lana  through  Larecaja  to 
join  the  Coroico  River  a 
few  leagues  south  of 
Puerto  Pando.  Along  the 
course  of  all  these  rivers 
rubber  is  found  in  abun- 
dance, and  in  some  of 
them  placer  gold  mining 
is  carried  on  with  most 
satisfactory  results.  The 
Tipuani  River  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  its  rich  gold  washings.  Rising  in  the  Andes,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the 
celebrated  snow  mountain  Sorata,  it  flows  northeastward  and  joins  the  Mapiri  at  Huanay,  near 
the  junction  of  the  Mapiri  and  the  Challana  with  the  Coroico.  This  is  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated gold  bearing  regions  of  Bolivia,  and  has  been  under  exploitation  since  the  time  of  the 
Incas,  who  received  from  their  subjects  in  this  part  of  the  empire  tribute  paid  in  gold  dust. 
According  to  historians,  the  Incas’  emissaries  collected  sixty  pounds  of  gold  dust  every  four 
months  from  the  section  now  known  as  Larecaja.  As  early  as  i ^60  some  Portuguese  miners 
got  large  quantities  of  gold  here,  and  a few  years  later  the  Spaniards  established  the  industry 
on  a permanent  basis.  Marvellous  stories  are  related  of  the  riches  of  this  region,  where  gold 
was  so  abundant  that  sacks  of  precious  gold  dust  were  piled  up  around  the  walls  of  the 
miners’  huts  to  serve  as  beds  and  chairs.  Hundreds  of  negro  workmen  were  brought  from 
Brazil  by  the  Portuguese,  and  the  whole  district  was  a busy  hive  of  industiy.  It  was  at 
this  time  that  Sorata  became  famous  as  a city  of  wealth  and  luxury.  In  1780,  one  of  the 
mine  owners  obtained  six  thousand  pounds  of  gold  washings  from  this  river.  The  variety 
of  mineral  and  vegetable  products  everywhere  found  in  the  valleys  of  these  rivers  makes 
this  a favorite  field  for  speculation,  and  few  instances  of  failure  in  any  enterprise  undertaken 
in  this  region  have  yet  been  recorded. 

So  varied  are  the  attractions  of  the  Yungas  that  the  scientist  goes  there  to  study  botany, 
the  speculator  to  make  a fortune,  and  the  tourist  to  see  the  ‘lights,  and  each  one  returns 
enchanted  with  the  success  of  his  mission,  and  usually  broadened  in  mind  by  having 


TOWN  OF  IRUPANA,  IN  THE  YUNGAS. 


276 


BOLIVIA 


enjoyed  the  trip  from  the  standpoint  of  the  other  travellers.  The  botanist  grows  enthu- 
siastic over  the  commercial  possibilities  of  his  newly  discovered  “specimen,”  the  fortune 
seeker  has  looked  around  him  while  on  his  way  to  the  gold  fields,  the  rubber  forests,  or 
the  fruit  farms,  and  cannot  help  feeling, a glow  of  interest  in  the  wonderful  secrets  of  the 
forests  and  the  mountain  sides;  and  the  tourist,  who  goes  merely  to  enjoy  the  scenery  and 
to  learn  something  of  the  customs  of  the  country,  finds  that  there  is  more  to  see  than 
magnificent  mountains  and  picturesque  valleys,  and  that  the  quaint  types  that  pass  him  on 
the  road  tell  more  than  the  contour  of  the  face  or  the  curious  style  of  the  dress  reveals;  and 
he  often  returns  with  all  the  enthusiasm  of  the  student  and  the  speculating  spirit  of  the 
gold  hunter  combined. 

The  proximity  of  the  Yungas  to  the  highways  of  travel  gives  this  region  an  advantage 
over  others  of  great  promise,  which,  though  abundant  in  natural  resources,  are  more  difficult 
of  access.  With  the  conclusion  of  the  La  Paz  and  Puerto  Pando  Railway,  this  territory  will 
be  brought  into  close  connection  with  La  Paz,  and  will,  at  the  same  time,  have  convenient 
access  to  the  great  Amazon  waterway.  Some  day  it  will  be  one  of  the  richest  and  most 
popular  resorts  of  Bolivia,  where  fashionable  society  will  make  its  annual  visit.  The  Yungas 
hillsides  will  be  dotted  with  the  handsome  country  homes  of  wealthy  Pacenos,  and  merry 
outing  parties  will  throng  its  valleys.  The  foreign  tourist  will  find  his  way  more  frequently 
to  this  part  of  the  world,  for  there  is  an  irresistible  attraction  in  the  prospect  of  a comfortable 
trip  in  a railway  train  which  carries  one  in  an  hour  or  so  from  the  Alpine  splendors  of  the 
snow  range  to  the  blossoming  hedges  and  balmy  groves  of  the  fertile  region  of  the  Yungas! 


TYPICAL  INDIAN  OF  THE  YUNGAS. 


THE  PLAZA,  COCHABAMBA. 


CHAPTER  XVII 


COCHABAMBA,  THE  GARDEN  CITY 

IN  a beautiful  valley  of  one  of  the  eastern  serranias 
^ of  the  Royal  Range,  sheltered  alike  from  the 
severe  cold  of  the  higher  altitudes  and  the  excessive 
heat  of  the  lower  plains,  the  city  of  Cochabamba 
lies  smiling  under  a benign  sun,  surrounded  by 
picturesque  hills  and  fertile  levels,  with  the  snow- 
crowned  summit  of  Tunari  in  view  to  the  north, 
and  the  tortuous  canons  of  the  Rio  Grande  stretch- 
ing southward.  Not  in  the  Vale  of  Kashmir  is  the 
zephyr  balmier  or  Nature’s  varied  expression  more 
lovely.  Its  gardens  blossom  with  the  fairest  flowers, 
and  in  its  orchards  grow  the  most  delicious  fruits. 
It  is  the  metropolis  of  a region  rich  in  production, 
the  granary  of  the  republic.  As  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  important  cities  of  Bolivia,  it  possesses 
historical  and  social  interest,  as  well  as  the  attraction 
that  scenery  and  climate  afford,  and  claims  attention  not  only  for  its  own  charm,  but  because 
it  is  the  cradle  of  many  of  Bolivia’s  greatest  men. 

At  the  time  that  the  noble  Don  Francisco  de  Oropesa,  Count  of  Toledo,  the  greatest  of 
the  viceroys,  gave  the  order  for  the  foundation  of  Cochabamba  in  1^70,  he  was  visiting 
La  Paz  for  the  purpose  of  making  a careful  study  of  the  conditions  and  needs  of  the 
Spanish  colony  in  Alto  Peru.  The  fact  was  called  to  his  attention  that  several  families 
among  the  loyal  subjects  of  His  Majesty  King  Philip  II.  were  living  in  a valley  which  the 
Indians  called  Cochapampa,  where  they  were  completely  isolated  and  suffering  many  hard- 
ships through  lack  of  communal  advantages.  With  characteristic  promptness  he  immediately 
despatched  a representative  whom  he  provided  with  the  necessary  authority  to  establish  a 

city,  on  the  site  of  a pueblo  called  Canata,  though  there  was  delay  in  the  execution  of  this 

279 


280 


BOLIVIA 


plan,  which  was  not  definitely  carried  into  effect  until  January  i,  1^74,  when,  as  before 
stated,  the  city  was  named  Villa  de  Oropesa.  The  name  was  changed  to  Cochabamba  in  1786, 

when  King  Charles  111. 
bestowed  upon  it  the  title 
of  “loyal  and  valorous,” 
in  recognition  of  the  dis- 
tinguished services  ren- 
dered by  its  citizens  in 
quelling  the  rebellion  of 
Tupac-Catari.  The  word 
Cochabamba  is  derived 
from  the  Quichua  words 
cocha,  meaning  a “pool,” 
and  pdinpa,  a “field,”  the 
valley  being  level  and 
well  watered,  especially 
at  its  eastern  extremity, 
where  the  city  is  located, 
at  an  altitude  of  nine 
thousand  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  mountains  of 
the  serninia  of  San  Pedro 
mark  the  eastern  boun- 
dary of  the  city,  and  the 
coliiui,  or  hill,  of  San  Se- 
bastian overlooks  it  on 
the  south.  The  river 
Rocha,  a branch  of  the 
Tayapaya,  which,  in  con- 
fluence with  the  Mizque,  joins  the  Rio  Grande,  the  principal  affluent  of  the  Mamore,  has  its 
rise  in  the  scrrauia  near  Cochabamba  and  flows  along  the  northern  and  western  boundary 
of  the  city,  fertilizing  the  neighboring  cawpiua,  and  making  it  perennially  green  and  beautiful. 

The  city  of  Cochabamba  has  a population  of  about  twenty-four  thousand  inhabitants, 
or  of  forty  thousand  including  the  suburban  population,  of  which  only  three  hundred  are  of 
foreign  birth,  chiefly  Peruvians  and  Germans.  It  is  divided  into  four  sections,  their  location 
being  determined  by  the  four  angles  of  the  principal  public  square,  the  Plaza  14  de  Setiembre. 
The  central  plaza  of  Spanish-American  cities  is  often  named  in  honor  of  some  important 
historical  event.  The  Plaza  14  de  Setiembre  in  Cochabamba  commemorates  the  date  on 
which  the  patriots  of  Cochabamba  rose  in  arms  to  fight  for  the  cause  of  independence 
in  1809,  two  months  after  the  installation  of  the  famous  revolution  led  by  Pedro  Domingo 


LA  PUERTA  DE  COCHABAMBA,  ON  THE  COACH  ROAD  FROM  ORURO  TO  COCHABAMBA. 


COCHABAMBA,  THE  GARDEN  CITY 


281 

Murillo,  and  four  months  from  the  date  of  the  uprising  against  the  royal  authority  in 
Chuquisaca.  A handsome  stone  column  in  the  centre  of  the  plaza  bears  the  names  of  the 
patriots  who  led  the  movement,  of  whom  Don  Estevan  Arze,  Don  Francisco  del  Rivero,  and 
Don  IVlelchor  Guzman  performed  marvels  of  valor  in  the  terrible  struggle  that  followed. 
The  story  of  Cochabamba’s  share  in  the  noble  fight  for  freedom  is  thrilling  in  interest,  and 
has  some  romantic  features  which  show  the  temperament  of  the  hijas  de  Timari.  The 
women  of  Cochabamba  are  of  the  type  of  the  ancient  Roman  matron  in  many  characteristics, 
and  more  than  one  patriotic  daughter  of  the  Garden  City  has  earned  the  admiration  of 
posterity  by  her  courageous  efforts  in  behalf  of  the  cause  of  liberty.  The  lives  of  Arze  and 
Rivero  were  saved  through  the  ready  wit  and  quick  action  of  Doha  Lucia  Ascui,  the  wife  of 
an  employe  of  the  government,  who  learned  of  an  intrigue  by  which  the  governor  planned 
to  get  rid  of  these  troublesome  revolutionists.  Promptly  the  noble  lady  sought  means  to 
warn  them  of  their  danger,  though  at  great  risk  to  her  own  life,  and  through  her  brave  efforts 
they  were  able  to  make  their  escape  to  a place  of  safety.  On  September  14,  1809,  these 
two  leaders,  at  the  head  of  an  army  of  a thousand  men,  took  the  quartel  of  Cochabamba,  the 
militia  refusing  to  resist  the  attack,  with  which  it  was  in  full  sympathy.  The  governor  tied 
to  Peru:  and  from  all  the  country  round,  crowds  of  patriots  came,  armed  with  whips  and 


THERMAL  SPRINGS  NEAR  COCHABAMBA. 


sticks,  the  only  weapons  they  possessed,  eager  to  join  in  the  revolution.  Don  Francisco 
del  Rivero  was  elected  military  and  political  chief.  On  September  19,  1810,  in  open  Cabildo, 


282 


BOLiyiA 


he  was  named  governor,  the  dean  of  the  cathedral  church  of  La  Plata  and  the  high  ecclesi- 
astics of  Cochabamba  officiating.  A patriotic  curate,  named  Juan  Bautista  Oquendo,  was 

the  orator  of  the  cause,  and,  under  the 
magic  influence  of  his  revolutionary 
speeches,  thousands  flocked  to  the 
standard.  Don  Estevan  Arze  was  ap- 
pointed general-in-chief  of  the  revo- 
lutionary forces,  and  the  campaign 
began  by  a march  on  Oruro,  resulting 
in  the  famous  victory  of  Aroma,  of 
which  the  immortal  Bartolome  Mitre 
said : “ Heroic  Cochabambans,  that 
alone,  without  arms,  without  generals, 
guided  only  by  noble  instinct  and 
generous  enthusiasm,  valorously  dis- 
played the  flag  of  insurrection,  and 
seven  days  after  the  battle  of  Suipacha, 
armed  only  with  clubs  and  tin  cannons 
made  by  themselves,  and  with  a few 
firearms,  set  out  to  meet  the  enemy, 
and  in  open  field,  man  to  man,  de- 
feated with  blows  the  disciplined  and 
well-armed  troops  of  the  viceroy  on 
the  glorious  field  of  Aroma!”  All 
through  the  war,  the  record  made  by 
Cochabamba  patriots  was  one  of  heroism  and  self-sacrifice;  and  in  the  subsequent  history 
of  the  republic  the  efforts  of  the  people  of  this  city  toward  the  establishment  of  political 
order  and  progress  are  written  in  many  successful  reforms,  entitling  them  to  an  important 
place  in  the  annals  of  national  achievement. 

Some  of  the  country’s  greatest  presidents,  most  learned  scholars,  and  eminent  divines 
have  had  their  home  in  this  charming  city.  Its  society  shows  the  influence  of  inherited 
refinement  and  culture;  and  if  there  are  few  evidences  of  great  wealth,  there  are  none  of 
the  deteriorating  effects  of  over-indulged  luxury  which  so  often  contribute  to  make  society 
a mere  fashionable  show.  When  Cochabamba  appears  in  promenade  on  the  plazas  or  the 
Alameda,  the  effect  is  much  the  same  as  on  the  popular  boulevards  of  London  or  Paris,  but 
one  hears  nothing  of  the  ‘‘social  whirl.”  In  a dignified  and  leisurely  way,  life’s  blessings 
are  enjoyed,  witliout  extravagance  or  ostentation.  It  is  true  that  the  automobile  has  invaded 
Cochabamba,  and  may  be  seen  any  afternoon  taking  parties  to  the  Alameda,  to  Cala-Cala,  or 
to  the  coHulI  of  San  Sebastian ; but  there  is  no  exciting  effort  to  break  the  record  in  speed, 
and  motor-mania  is  as  yet  an  unknown  malady. 


COCHABAMBA,  THE  GARDEN  CITY 


283 


Cochabamba  has  six  plazas,  ornamented  with  trees  and  flowers  and  arranged  for  the 
convenience  of  promenaders,  the  14  de  Setiembre,  Colon,  San  Sebastian,  San  Antonio,  Gon- 
zalez Velez,  Santa  Teresa,  Geronimo  de  Osorio,  and  Matadero.  The  Plaza  Colon,  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  Alameda,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  parks  in  the  city.  The  Alameda,  popularly 
called  the  Prado,  extends  from  the  Plaza  Colon  to  the  river,  and  is  the  favorite  driveway  to 
Cala-cala  on  the  opposite  bank.  At  almost  any  season  of  the  year  the  Prado  presents  an 
animated  scene  in  the  late  afternoon  and  evening,  when  it  is  thronged  with  people,  especially 
on  days  of  fiesta.  It  was  inaugurated  with  interesting  ceremonies  by  General  Jose  Ballivian 
in  1848,  and  since  that  time  has  been  the  scene  of  many  important  episodes  in  national 
history.  The  Alameda  is  divided  into  five  beautiful  streets,  which  are  separated  from  one 
another  by  rows  of  willow  trees,  rosebushes,  and  pretty  shrubs.  The  central  avenue  is 
being  beautified  by  fountains,  monuments,  and  flower  beds.  The  streets  on  each  side  are 
for  the  use  of  pedestrians,  and  the  outside  streets  for  driving  and  riding.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  city  the  plaza  of  San  Sebastian  is  situated,  at  the  foot  of  San  Sebastian  hill,  but, 
unlike  the  Prado,  it  is  almost  deserted  except  on  January  20th  and  August  6th,  when  the 
races  are  held  there.  San  Sebastian,  or,  as  it  is  called,  Colina  de  San  Sebastian,  is  a sloping 


FEAST  DAY  OF  SAN  SEBASTIAN.  COCHABAMBA. 


hillside,  where  the  air  is  so  fresh  and  pure,  and  the  scenery  so  beautiful,  that  everyone 
finds  it  a delightful  resort.  It  has  historical  interest  also  as  the  site  on  which  the  famous 


284 


BOLiyiA 


insurrection  of  Calatayud  broke  out,  in  colonial  days,  when  the  news  spread  that  Spain 
intended  to  tax  the  mcsii{os  as  well  as  the  Indians  in  the  collecting  of  tribute.  The  Plaza 
Gonzalez  Velez,  generally  known  as  the  Plaza  de Toros,  situated  on  the  lower  slope  of  the  hill, 

is  conspicuous  for  the  impos- 
ing edifice  which  is  its  central 
adornment,  and  which  is  used 
as  an  arena  for  the  bull  fights. 
As  this  sport  is  not  popular 
in  Cochabamba,  the  plaza  is 
seldom  frequented,  though 
from  the  upper  windows  of 
the  building  a magnificent 
view  of  the  city  and  its  sub- 
urbs spreads  out  before  one 
in  a charming  panorama. 

The  most  important  pub- 
lic buildings  of  Cochabamba 
are  on  or  near  the  Plaza  14 
de  Setiembre,  which  marks 
the  centre  of  the  city.  The  Government  Palace,  Palace  of  Justice,  Municipal  Building,  and 
Prefectura,  overlook  this  plaza,  and  are  substantial  structures,  well  built  and  sufficiently 
commodious.  The  Cathedral  also  faces  the  Plaza  14  de  Setiembre,  and  is  one  of  the  hand- 
somest edifices  in  the  city.  It  is  chiefly  interesting  to  strangers  because  of  the  works  of 
art  to  be  seen  among  its  treasures.  The  repentance  of  Saint  Peter  is  represented  in  a figure 
of  natural  size  carved  in  wood,  and  there  is  also  a San  Sebastian  carved  in  wood,  the  Virgin  of 
Lourdes,  and  the  Crucified  Christ.  The  city  is  divided  into  four  parishes,  Santo  Domingo, 
La  Compahia,  San  Jose,  and  San  Antonio,  each  parish  being  in  charge  of  a curate  and  his 
assistants.  The  history  of  the  Church  in  colonial  days  was  chiefly  recorded  in  the  benevo- 
lent and  educational  work  done  through  the  various  religious  orders,  and  Cochabamba  was 
once  an  important  centre,  where  the  orders  of  San  Agustin,  San  Francisco,  the  Jesuits,  and 
others  had  their  headquarters.  Only  three  of  the  nine  convents  once  existing  in  the  city 
still  remain,  those  of  San  Francisco,  Santa  Clara,  and  Santa  Teresa.  The  former  convent  of 
San  Agustin  is  now  occupied  by  the  theatre  Acha,  the  temple  and  convent  of  La  Merced 
have  been  appropriated  as  a market  place,  and  other  convent  buildings  are  occupied  as 
schools  and  hospitals.  After  the  inauguration  of  the  republic  all  the  convents  for  men  were 
abolished  and  their  revenues  applied  to  purposes  of  public  instruction  and  charities.  The 
nunneries  which  still  remain  are  nearly  all  educational  institutions  as  well  as  convents, 
and  it  is  in  these  schools  that  the  young  ladies  of  the  city  are  educated.  Cochabamba  is 
especially  noted  for  its  many  churches  and  schools.  In  addition  to  the  Cathedral,  there  are 
at  least  nine  churches  and  convents,  and  the  city  has  twenty-six  primary  schools,  besides 


COCHABAMBA,  THE  GARDEN  CITY 


28^ 

the  university,  two  state  schools,  and  the  Colegio  Conciliar,  for  the  training  of  advanced 
pupils  in  high  school  work.  The  city  lias  a public  library  of  six  thousand  volumes  of 
which  two  thousand  are  old  books,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  monasteries,  some 
of  them  very  valuable. 

The  public  works  of  the  city  of  Cochabamba  have  been  improved  during  the  present 
administration,  and  not  only  in  municipal,  but  departmental  affairs  noted  progress  has  been 
effected.  The  first  observation  which  a traveller  makes  upon  approaching  the  city  is  that  the 
highroads  are  in  splendid  condition,  showing  that  the  prefect  of  the  department  has  given 
special  attention  to  this  branch  of  his  administration.  The  ex-prefect,  Sehor  Dr.  Isaac 
Aranibar,  who  was  succeeded  in  office  only  a few  months  ago  by  the  distinguished  soldier 
and  statesman  General  Zenon  Cossio,  accomplished  many  important  reforms  in  the  depart- 
ment, and  was  indefatigable  in  his  efforts  to  advance  its  progress.  He  is  now  a deputy  to 
the  national  Congress  from  that  department,  and  labors  faithfully  in  behalf  of  its  people. 
Dr.  Aranibar  is  a prominent  statesman  and  politician,  who,  though  one  of  the  younger 
leaders,  has  made  his  influence  count  in  national  affairs  with  great  credit  to  his  judgment 
and  patriotism. 

As  capital  of  the  department,  Cochabamba  is  the  metropolis  of  a territory  covering  two 
thousand  square  leagues,  and  having  a population  of  four  hundred  thousand.  The  depart- 
ment comprises  ten  provinces,  each  of  which  has  its  capital  city  and  is  the  centre  of  a 
flourishing  agricultural  district.  The  provinces  are  Cercado,  which  includes  the  suburbs  of 
the  department  capital ; Tapacari,  of  which  Quillacollo  is  the  capital,  only  a few  miles  distant 
from  the  city  of  Cochabamba  over  a road  which  leads  through  a magnificent  avenue  of 
shade  trees  along  the  entire  route;  Arque,  with  its  pretty  little  capital,  Capinota;  Campero, 
of  which  Aiquile  is  the  flourishing  centre;  Ayopaya,  celebrated  for  the  gold  mines  of 
Choquecamata;  and  the  provinces  of  Mizque,  Tarata,  Totora,  Punata,  and  Chapare.  Every 
climate  may  be  experienced  in  a trip  through  the  provinces  of  this  department,  from  the 
cold  which  is  never  modified  on  the  snowclad  summit  of  Tunari,  and  the  perennial  spring- 
time of  more  sheltered  slopes  and  ravines,  to  the  equatorial  heat  of  the  lower  valleys  and 
wooded  plains  that  mark  the  more  tropical  waterways  of  the  Amazon  system.  The  influence 
of  cliniate  is  seen  in  the  vegetation,  which  is  of  the  most  varied  character.  On  the  high 
puna,  at  an  altitude  above  twelve  thousand  feet  as  encountered  along  the  road  from  Cocha- 
bamba to  Mizque,  vegetation  is  scant,  though  even  here  the  farmer  grows  corn,  barley, 
potatoes,  and  a comparatively  new  product  called  quiniu,  more  nutritious  and  cheaper  than 
wheat,  for  which  it  serves  as  a substitute.  It  is  cultivated  on  all  the  high  plateaus,  and  is 
increasing  in  favor  as  a staple  food.  On  the  slopes  of  the  Cordilleras,  Nature  has  made 
abundant  provision  for  human  needs,  and  every  kind  of  agricultural  product  is  harvested  in 
plenty.  Wheat,  corn,  beans,  and  a great  variety  of  fruits  are  cultivated  in  the  milder  zones, 
and  in  the  more  tropical  sections  of  the  provinces  of  Chapare  and  Totora  coffee,  cacao, 
quinine,  sugar  cane,  rice,  cauiote, — a yellow  potato  of  delicious  flavor,  which  has  the  appear- 
ance of  the  sweet  potato, — as  well  as  all  tropical  fruits  grow  in  abundance.  The  chiriinoya. 


286 


BOLiyiA 


in  English  called  custard-apple,  arrives  at  its  highest  perfection  in  this  region,  and  the  palta, 
elsewhere  known  as  the  alligator  pear,  and  which  in  Mexico  is  called  agiiacate,  is  of 
delicious  flavor.  The  granadilla,  a peculiar  fruit  which  looks  something  like  a small  orange 
with  a hard,  smooth  skin,  and  is  composed  of  a mass  of  seeds  in  a juicy,  glutinous  white 
pulp,  is  very  refreshing,  either  as  eaten,  seeds  and  all,  or  made  into  a refreshing  beverage. 
The  province  of  Mizque  is  noted  for  its  wine,  though  only  the  most  primitive  methods  are 
used  in  viticulture,  and  the  industry  has  never  reached  the  degree  of  development  which  is 
possible  under  more  favorable  conditions.  The  Yuracares,  as  the  Yungas  of  Cochabamba 


CHURCH  OF  SAN  PEDRO,  COCHABAMBA. 


are  called,  produce  coca,  cacao,  tobacco,  rice,  and  quinine,  the  chief  shipping  centre  for  all 
these  products  being  the  capital  city  of  Cochabamba,  from  which  they  are  distributed  to 
their  final  destination. 

The  city  of  Cochabamba  presents  a busy  appearance  when  the  cargoes  of  produce 
arrive  from  the  farms  and  forests  of  the  interior,  and  it  is  not  unusual  for  a street  to 
be  blockaded  by  one  of  these  caravans.  Large  importing  and  exporting  houses  usually 
receive  the  products  and  direct  their  shipment.  Not  only  do  the  surrounding  provinces 
supply  the  market  with  some  of  the  most  important  food  stuffs  and  medicinal  products, 
but  from  the  hills  are  taken  the  marble,  stone,  clay,  lime,  sand,  and  other  building  mate- 
rials used  in  the  construction  of  the  city’s  most  modern  edifices.  Bcrcuguda,  a native 
marble  of  great  value  and  beauty,  having  something  of  the  appearance  of  old  ivory,  is  used 
a great  deal  for  ornamental  purposes.  Tlie  attention  of  foreign  travellers  has  been  espe- 
cially attracted  to  the  excellent  properties  of  bcmigucla  and  to  the  superior  quality  of  all 
the  building  materials  found  in  this  ciepartment.  The  facilities  for  construction  which  the 


COCHABAMBA,  THE  GARDEN  CITY 


287 


proximity  of  these  materials  affords  is  no  doubt  responsible  to  some  degree  for  the  hand- 
some buildings  that  have  been  erected  within  recent  years,  among  others,  several  for 
purposes  of  manufacture.  Cochabamba  is  adding  annually  to  the  number  and  importance 
of  its  manufacturing  establishments.  Excellent  saddles  and  harnesses  are  made  here, 
leather  is  tanned,  boots  and  shoes  are  manufactured,  the  weaving  of  ponchos  of  delicate  silk 
and  woollen  fabrics  is  a special  art,  and  in  the  country  districts  butter  making  is  among  the 
industries.  A number  of  factories  produce  on  a limited  scale  the  more  necessary  articles  of 
daily  use,  such  as  soap,  candles,  glass,  etc.  The  breweries  of  the  city  turn  out  a million 
bottles  of  beer  annually,  and  there  are  hat  factories,  wool  and  cotton  factories,  and  a silk- 
worm establishment.  The  silk  is  of  a superior  quality,  the  cocoons  being  white  or  yellow 
in  color.  The  larvre  show  the  most  robust  health  and  strength,  mulberry  trees  seeming  to 
grow  particularly  well  in  this  climate,  and  to  afford  the  greatest  possible  nutrition  to  the  silk- 
worms. Cochabamba  is  quite  celebrated  for  its  lace  making,  and  visitors  to  the  city  usually 
spend  some  time  in  examining  the  beautiful  designs  of  the  pieces  offered  for  sale  in  the 
market.  Many  of  the  lace-trimmed  articles  are  of  the  coarsest  cotton  material,  but  the  work- 
manship is  marvellous,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  the  poorest  vendor  wearing  a petticoat 
bordered  with  lace  a half  a yard  deep,  made  by  herself.  On  feast  days  the  chohis  wear 
dozens  of  these  petticoats,  starched  so  stiffly  that  they  make  the  skirt  stand  out  like  a balloon, 
and  in  Cochabamba,  though  less  conspicuously  than  in  La  Paz,  the  cholas  petticoats  repre- 
sent their  chief  wealth.  Beautiful  lace  scarfs,  lace  edgings  of  the  finest  design,  and  lace 
curtains  are  made  by  the  natives.  Among  the  very  poor  some  such  industry  is  usually 
adopted  to  provide  a source  of  revenue  for  the  family  aside  from  the  wages  earned  by  the 
husband,  and  in  the  humblest  little  hut  there  is  generally  a frame  for  weaving  ponchos  or  a 
cushion  for  lace  making,  as  most  of  the  lace  is  made  on  cushions  by  means  of  bobbins  and 
pins,  though  crocheted  laces  are  also  seen.  As  a rule,  these  humble  homes  are  the  abode  of 
content,  and  they  are  wonderful  examples  of  how  little  is  needed  to  make  the  poor  happy, 
where  they  do  not  have  to  face  daily  the  terrible  struggle  which  is  waged  by  the  less 
fortunate  in  large  European  and  North  American  cities.  There  is  a haven  of  promise  for  the 
emigrant  in  the  glorious  climate  and  fertile  valleys  of  Cochabamba,  and  he  will  fnd  a 
welcome  here  if  he  is  industrious  and  honest,  no  matter  what  his  nationality. 

Cochabamba  is  growing,  in  spite  of  occasional  dull  seasons,  which  usually  affect  the 
progress  of  an  agricultural  community.  The  authorities  of  the  municipality  are  doing  all  in 
their  power  to  improve  this  beautiful  city,  and  to  provide  modern  conveniences  wherever 
possible.  A street  car  system  is  to  be  built  which  will  connect  the  city  with  Quillacollo 
and  other  suburban  towns,  and  improvements  are  to  be  made  in  lighting  and  otherwise 
providing  for  the  comfort  of  the  citizens.  The  driveway  which  leads  to  Cala-cala  is  being 
beautified  and  made  more  attractive,  and  the  public  baths  are  to  be  enlarged  and  improved. 

Cala-cala  is  the  most  beautiful  suburb  of  Cochabamba,  and  is  the  popular  residence 
quarter  for  many  of  the  leading  families,  and  for  nearly  all  the  foreigners  of  the  city.  The 
European  population  is  small,  but  it  represents  many  countries,  English,  German,  French, 


288 


BOLiyiA 


and  other  nationalities  being  counted  among  its  leading  citizens.  One  of  the  most  attractive 
chacras  in  Cala-cala  is  owned  by  a North  American,  Mr.  Oscar  Ehrhorn,  of  San  Francisco, 
California,  who  has  lived  in  Cochabamba  many  years  and  is  enthusiastic  over  the  climate 
and  the  future  business  prospects  of  this  section,  which  he  regards  as  the  garden  spot  of 
Bolivia.  Others  express  the  same  opinion  and  predict  a very  prosperous  future  for  this  city, 
which  some  day  will  be  one  of  the  richest  industrial  centres  of  South  America.  Foreigners 
are  treated  with  the  greatest  consideration  and  have  equal  privileges  with  the  natives  of  the 
country.  The  completion  of  the  new  railway  between  Cochabamba  and  Oruro  means  a 
great  deal  to  the  people  of  this  department,  as  it  will  serve  to  bring  them  at  least  three  days 
nearer  to  the  coast,  and  will  place  their  rich  products  in  many  more  markets  than  formerly. 
Whether  in  intellectual  attainment  or  in  material  progress,  Cochabamba  has  always  been 
able  to  keep  a leading  place  among  the  cities  of  Bolivia,  and  it  is  certain  that  her  people  will 
continue  to  maintain  the  title  so  often  bestowed  upon  her  as  the  “Athens  of  Bolivia”  and 
the  “Garden  City.” 


LOVERS'  TREE  IN  CALA-CALA,  COCHABAMBA. 


CACHIMAYO  HACIENDA,  NEAR  SUCRE. 


CHAPTER  XVIIl 


BOLIVIA  A FIELD  FOR  LARGE  ENTERPRISES— NATURAL  CONDITIONS— 

IMMIGRATION— CLIMATE 


\ A HTH  a larger  territory  than  that  covered  by 
^ ’ France,  Germany,  and  Spain  together, 
and  a smaller  population  than  the  French  capital 
claims,  Bolivia  certainly  seems  to  offer  plenty  of 
scope  for  the  development  of  large  enterprises. 
Colonization  presents  an  inviting  opportunity, 
and  immigration  may  be  fostered  with  golden 
results  to  the  individual  as  well  as  to  the  state. 
To  the  natural  advantages  of  a productive  soil 
and  healthful  climate  are  added  those  which 
arise  from  a great  variety  of  resources.  Bolivia 
is  comprised  in  three  well-defined  regions:  the 
Altaplanicie,  about  fve  hundred  miles  long  and 
eighty  miles  wide,  which  extends  from  Lake  Titi- 
caca to  the  southern  boundary  of  the  republic : 
the  great  system  of  the  Royal  Range,  which  in- 
cludes the  serraiiias  that  are  its  offshoots,  and 
their  fertile  valleys:  and  the  vast  plains,  grassy  or  forest-grown,  which  stretch  away  from 
the  Andes  to  the  eastern  and  northern  boundaries,  and  are  noted  for  the  valuable  rubber 
trees  that  make  this  section  one  of  the  most  important  centres  of  Bolivian  industry.  In 
each  of  these  regions  there  is  a great  deal  of  territory  unoccupied,  and  very  rich  in  the 
products  peculiar  to  its  locality.  Of  the  Altaplanicie,  the  northern  part  is  famous  as  the 
centre  of  the  copper-mining  district  of  Corocoro  in  the  department  of  La  Paz;  in  its  central 
province  of  Carangas  are  located  some  of  the  most  valuable  silver  and  tin  deposits  of 
the  department  of  Oruro;  and  the  southern  district,  included  in  the  department  of  Potosi, 

is  rich  in  borax  and  other  saline  products.  Deposits  of  borax  are  found  not  only  in  the 

291 


292 


BOLiyi/l 


southern  part,  where  the  Lago  de  Sal,  or  “Salt  Lake,”  is  situated,  but  also  in  the  central  and 
northern  sections,  especially  in  the  province  of  Carangas,  where  the  salt  marsh  of  Coipasa 
covers  a territory  of  fifty  square  kilometres.  A subterranean  river  connects  Coipasa  with 
Lake  Poopo,  or  Pampa-Aullagas,  as  it  is  also  called.  The  Altaplanicie  is  not  entirely  level, 
an  occasional  mountain  peak,  usually  of  conical  form,  giving  a pleasing  variety  to  its  land- 
scape. Some  of  the  mountains  are  snow-capped,  and  others  appear  like  irregular  brown 
rocks  set  up  on  the  plains.  A curious  freak  of  nature  is  seen  in  the  sinking  ground  of  the 
Cerro  Milluni,  near  Huayna  Potosi,  where  great  rugged  monoliths  are  brought  into  picturesque 
relief  by  the  sinking  sand. 

The  Altaplanicie  is  not  only  productive  in  minerals,  as  the  wealth  of  Corocoro  and 
Carangas  proves,  but  it  yields  good  harvests  of  barley,  maize,  and  potatoes  in  the  more 
sheltered  regions,  and  provides  pasturage  for  large  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats.  The  inhab- 
itants regard  the  clialona,  or  salted  mutton,  of  the  plateau  as  an  excellent  food,  and  the  cheese 
known  as  qiieso  de  Paria  is  esteemed  a delicacy  throughout  western  Bolivia.  Alpacas  are 
found  on  the  Titicaca  plateau  in  large  numbers  near  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Royal  range, 
and  a few  are  to  be  seen  in  every  province,  from  Pacajes  and  Sicasica  in  the  department  of 
La  Paz  to  Porco,  Chichas,  and  Lipez  in  the  department  of  Potosi.  This  valuable  wool- 
bearing animal  seeks  the  coldest  and  loneliest  regions,  where  snow  falls  instead  of  rain,  on 
the  slopes  of  the  high  scmmias  and  in  the  clefts  of  the  Cordilleras.  The  raising  and  shearing 
of  the  alpaca  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  who  by  their  patient  methods  succeed  better 
than  any  other  class  of  shepherds  in  getting  good  results  from  the  care  of  these  animals. 
Alpacas  are  black,  white,  brown,  or  yellow  in  color,  and  yield  wool  of  very  fine  quality. 
They  are  sheared  every  other  year,  the  fibre  being  sometimes  a foot  in  length,  and  a 
shearing  amounts  to  as  much  as  fifteen  pounds.  As  the  demand  for  this  wool  increases  in 
the  European  markets,  greater  attention  is  paid  to  the  industry,  but  it  has  never  occupied  the 
place  it  deserves,  and  the  output  might  be  made  many  times  what  it  is  to-day, — about  two 
million  pounds.  In  form  and  size  the  alpaca  resembles  a large  sheep,  though  its  neck  is 
long  like  that  of  the  llama,  to  which  it  is  similar  in  general  appearance,  but  having  shorter  legs 
and  a less  graceful  form.  The  alpaca  is  never  used  as  a beast  of  burden,  but  is  reared  only 
for  its  wool.  The  vicuna, — camelus  vicogiia, — a smaller  and  more  delicately  proportioned 
animal  than  either  the  llama  or  the  alpaca,  though  it  bears  some  resemblance  to  both,  is 
highly  prized  for  its  valuable  coat,  vicuna  furs  being  very  much  appreciated  by  connoisseurs, 
because  of  their  fineness  of  texture,  their  extremely  light  weight,  and  the  exquisite  tones  of 
mauve  and  tan  that  distinguish  their  color.  They  are  particularly  suitable  for  rugs,  carriage 
robes,  and  automobile  coats.  In  all  South  American  countries  the  ponchos  woven  of  vicuna 
wool  are  greatly  valued  and  bring  a high  price.  The  vicuna  is  about  the  size  of  a young 
fawn  and  quite  as  timid.  Its  favorite  haunts  are  above  the  region  of  perpetual  snow,  and  it 
is  seldom  seen  on  the  highways  of  travel.  It  is  more  frequently  met  with  than  the  alpaca, 
on  the  Bolivian  highlands,  especially  in  the  departments  of  La  Paz  and  Oruro.  On  the 
higher  Andes,  in  the  departments  of  La  Paz,  Oruro,  and  Potosi,  the  precious  little  chinchilla 


A FIELD  FOR  LARGE  ENTERPRISES 


29^ 

is  also  found,  on  the  high  slopes.  It  is  very  difficult  to  catch  and  is  becoming  rarer  eveiy 
year.  It  feeds  on  small  grasses  and  herbs  with  the  dew  on  them,  but  it  drinks  no  water 
from  other  sources.  The  chinchilla  is  about  the  size  of  a mouse,  which  it  resembles,  though 
its  color  is  a light  blue-gray. 

None  of  the  resources  of  the  Altaplanicie  have  been  fully  developed,  and  there  are  still 
possibilities  for  the  acquirement  of  wealth  in  its  mines  and  borax  fields,  as  well  as  in  its 
pasture  lands.  The  climate  is  severe,  but  healthy,  and  for  immigrants  who  come  from 
cold  countries  it  has  advantages  over  the  more  enervating  climates  of  a warmer  zone.  The 
average  altitude  of  the  Altaplanicie  is  twelve  thousand  feet  above  sea  level.  In  the  south,  a 


VINEYARDS  OF  PARANl',  DEPARTMENT  OF  LA  PAZ. 


serrania  of  the  Occidental,  or  Coast  Range,  crosses  the  plateau  and  unites  with  the  Royal  Range 
in  what  is  known  as  the  Cordillera  de  los  Frailes,  one  of  the  most  majestic  snow  ranges 
of  the  whole  chain  of  the  Andes.  It  divides  the  departments  of  Potosi  and  Oruro  south  of 
Lake  Poopo,  and  is  an  imposing  sight  as  viewed  either  from  the  city  of  Potosi,  from  which 
it  appears  in  the  distance  like  a bank  of  fleecy  clouds  against  the  purple  of  lower  peaks,  or 
as  seen  from  the  Oruro  side  of  the  range,  where  the  view,  though  of  different  aspect,  is  one 
of  enchanting  beauty.  The  name,  which  means  the  “ Friars’  Range,”  is  said  to  have  been 
given  to  commemorate  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  in  1767,  when  many  of  their  number  died 
from  exhaustion  and  exposure  while  trying  to  find  their  way  across  its  frozen  passes. 


294 


BOLIVIA 


The  most  thickly  settled  and  generally  developed  region  of  Bolivia  is  that  which  belongs 
to  the  division  of  the  country  made  by  the  Cordillera  Real  and  its  fertile  valleys.  From  the 

Yungas  of  La  Paz  and  Cocha- 
bamba on  the  north  to  the 
semmias  of  Tarija  on  the  south, 
the  vast  riches  of  this  wonder- 
ful region  have  been  exploited, 
to  some  extent,  in  its  mines, 
agricultural  industries,  and  other 
productions;  yet  there  are  min- 
eral districts  which  have  never 
been  explored,  and  fertile  tracts 
of  farm  land  that  remain  un- 
touched by  the  plow.  Almost 
every  kind  of  mineral  may  be 
found  in  the  mountains  of  the 
Royal  Range.  Besides  the  more  important  gold,  silver,  tin,  copper,  and  bismuth  mines, 
there  are  indications  which  point  to  extensive  deposits  of  coal  in  the  departments  of  La  Paz, 
Chuquisaca,  and  Santa  Cruz.  Anthracite  coal  has  been  discovered  in  large  quantities  near 
the  Argentine  boundary,  which,  it  is  claimed,  is  of  a quality  to  compete  with  the  best  in  the 
market.  Iron  is  found  in  the  departments  of  Santa  Cruz,  Oruro,  La  Paz,  and  the  Beni,  but 
the  deposits  have  never  been  worked  to  any  extent.  Antimony  is  exported  from  Oruro, 
Potosi,  and  La  Paz.  An  excellent  quality  of  marble  comes  from  the  neighborhood  of  La  Paz, 
as  well  as  from  several  districts  between  La  Paz  and  Cochabamba.  Of  precious  stones, 
the  amethyst,  emerald,  opal,  topaz,  and  turquoise  are  found  in  the  departments  of  La  Paz, 
Potosi,  and  Santa  Cruz. 

Nearly  all  writers  on  the  subject  of  Bolivia’s  natural  resources  and  the  opportunities 
tliey  present  to  the  foreign  capitalist  emphasize  the  riches  of  Bolivian  mines,  but  very  few 
call  attention  to  the  enormous  wealth  which  may  be  gained  by  investing  in  large  agricultural 
projects.  It  is  true  that  enterprises  which  involve  the  occupation  and  development  of  vast 
tracts  of  land  can  only  be  successfully  promoted  where  the  advantages  of  railway  transpor- 
tation are  assured;  and  this  fact  no  doubt  accounts, in  a measure, for  the  indifference  shown 
to  colonization  in  Bolivia  in  the  past.  But  now  that  a complete  railway  system  is  under 
construction,  the  greatest  obstacle  to  investment  in  farm  lands  is  being  removed.  Already 
there  is  a tendency  among  Bolivians  to  give  greater  attention  than  ever  before  to  the 
agriculture  of  the  country,  and  to  investigate  the  possibilities  of  this  industry,  which  has 
hitherto  been  practically  ignored  except  in  the  most  favored  sections  along  the  highways  of 
travel.  One  hears  a great  deal  of  the  fertile  lands  of  the  Yungas,  Santa  Cruz,  Cochabamba, 
and  the  Beni,  and  their  productions  are  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  But  though 
tobacco,  rice,  sugar,  wheat,  corn,  and  other  products  have  been  harvested  in  increasing 


2% 


A FIELD  FOE  LARGE  ENTERPRISES 

• 

quantities  from  year  to  year,  not  one  of  them  is  cultivated  to  the  extent  possible  in  the 
fertile  region  where  it  grows. 

Viticulture  promises  to  be  an  important  source  of  revenue,  when  it  is  given  the  attention 
it  merits;  and  from  the  beautiful  vineyards  of  Parani  and  elsewhere,  in  the  departments  of 
La  Paz,  Cochabamba,  and  Chuquisaca,  wine  may  some  day  be  manufactured  in  sufficient 
abundance  and  of  a quality  to  compete  with  the  best  vintage  of  other  countries.  There  are 
fertile  valleys  in  every  part  of  the  republic  which  require  only  small  investment  to  make 
them  yield  abundantly.  Even  the  suburbs  of  La  Paz,  though  on  the  border  of  the  Altapla- 
nicie,  are  dotted  with  pretty  gardens,  especially  along  the  coach  road  to  Obrajes,  and  the 
valley  of  Sopocachi  is  a typical  agricultural  scene  as  it  lies  blooming  in  the  beauty  of  green 
fields  and  orchards.  The  new  railroads  pass  through  valleys  not  only  picturesque  but 
fertile,  many  prosperous-looking  farms  lying  along  the  line  of  the  La  Paz  and  Arica  Railway, 
in  the  lower  slopes.  Between  Cochabamba  and  Sucre  there  is  apparently  no  limit  to  the 
possibilities  for  industrial  development.  The  flourishing  haciendas  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Sucre  are  a proof  of  what  may  be  done  toward  making  this  region  one  of  the  richest 
farming  districts  in  the  world.  Everything  that  is  planted  on  the  Cachimayo  hacienda 
grows  in  abundance,  and  is  of  superior  quality,  and  there  is  not  a more  prosperous-looking 
country  place  to  be  seen  anywhere.  Not  only  its  farm  products,  but  also  its  fruits  and 
wines  are  of  excellent  quality.  Cattle  raising  is  a profitable  industry,  and  fine  specimens 


FERTILE  VALLEY  ON  THE  ROUTE  OF  THE  ARICA  AND  LA  PAZ  RAILWAY. 


are  seen  at  the  annual  fcrlas  in  the  chief  cities.  The  large  haciendas  of  Chuquisaca  are 
divided  into  cattle  ranges,  farm  lands,  and  fruit  orchards,  the  estates  in  some  cases  covering 


296 


BOLIVIA 


many  square  leagues.  Further  in  the  interior  eastward,  in  the  province  called  La  Cordillera, 
large  tracts  of  land  are  given  up  to  cattle  raising  exclusively,  especially  along  the  valley  of 

the  Parapiti  River,  a branch  of  the 
Otuquis,  which  is  one  of  the  chief 
affluents  of  the  Paraguay.  This 
section  of  the  country  is  only 
partly  settled,  much  of  it  is  still 
unexplored,  and,  where  cattle 
roam  its  wilds  no  boundaries  are 
established  to  limit  the  range.  It 
is  very  like  what  western  Texas, 
in  the  United  States,  was  before 
the  railroads  crossed  it,  though  it 
nowhere  presents  the  arid  wastes 
which  are  to  be  found  in  some 
parts  of  the  Lone  Star  State. 
There  is,  however,  a marked  re- 
semblance between  these  two  cattle-raising  countries.  Not  less  extensive  than  the  ranges 
of  Chuquisaca  are  those  of  Tarija,  Cochabamba,  and  Santa  Cruz,  the  lower  slopes  of  the 
serranias  supplying  fine  pasturage.  But  very  little  attention  has  been  paid  to  this  important 
industry,  which  is  still  in  its  infancy.  When  once  these  ranges  are  well  stocked  and  properly 
irrigated,  the  results  will  be  astonishing,  as  the  grass  lands  are  as  good  here  as  in  some  of 
the  best  grazing  districts  of  Argentina. 

At  present,  the  cultivation  of  cereals  and  fruits  receives  more  attention  than  cattle  raising, 
and  the  markets  of  all  the  principal  cities  of  the  central  valley  are  usually  thronged  with 
vendors  of  oranges,  lemons,  bananas,  pineapples,  and  other  varieties  of  fruits.  The  Cocha- 
bamba marketwoman  is  a particularly  contented-looking  creature  as  she  seats  herself  behind 
her  pile  of  fruit  with  her  baby  by  her  side.  Except  for  the  difference  in  the  appearance  of 
the  vendors,  the  Cochabamba  market  looks  much  the  same  as  that  of  La  Paz,  but  every 
department  shows  something  distinct  from  all  others  in  the  dress  of  the  Indians  and  cholas, 
giving  an  individuality  to  the  type  in  each  locality.  The  La  Paz  cholas  are  noted  for  their 
coquetry  in  dress,  and  even  when  trudging  along  the  country  roads  from  Obrajes  and  other 
points  to  the  city,  they  have  a jaunty  air  and  carry  their  load  with  an  indifference  to  its 
weight  that  attracts  attention. 

The  region  which  extends  from  the  Royal  Range  eastward  and  northward  to  the  boun- 
dary of  the  republic  is  destined  to  be  the  centre  of  industrial  activity  in  Bolivia  when  the 
means  of  communication  are  established  between  this  rich  country  and  the  outside  world. 
Its  western  border  is  marked  by  the  eastern  limits  of  the  department  of  La  Paz,  Cocha- 
bamba, and  part  of  Tarija,  its  northern  boundary  by  the  Peruvian  frontier  and  its  southern 
limits  by  the  Argentine  republic.  It  is  not  all  level  land,  but  generally  rolling  plain,  broken 


CATTLE  FAIR  IN  SUCRE. 


A FIELD  FOR  LARGE  ENTERPRISES 


297 


at  intervals  by  scattered  ranges  and  groups  of  hills,  which  in  some  places  reach  an  altitude 
of  four  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  though  the  whole  territory  slopes  gently  from  an 
altitude  of  two  thousand  feet 
at  the  eastern  foothills  of  the 
Royal  range  to  about  four  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  sea  on  the 
Brazilian  and  Paraguayan  bor- 
ders. As  the  drainage  of  the 
great  Andean  chain  is  chiefly 
toward  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  east- 
ern Bolivia  is  watered  by  impor- 
tant tributaries  of  the  Amazon 
and  La  Plata  River  systems. 

The  Paraguay  River  forms  the 
eastern,  and  the  Guapore,  or 
Itenez,  River  the  northeastern 
boundary,  the  northwestern 
limit  being  still  unsettled  be- 
tween Bolivia  and  Peru,  though 
Bolivia  claims  as  this  limit  the  Acre  River  from  its  headwaters  to  Riosino  and  a line  thence 
eastward  to  the  Madeira  River,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Beni  and  the  Mamore.  The  river 
Beni,  with  its  great  tributary  the  Madre  de  Dios;  the  Mamore,  with  its  affluents  the  Guapore 
and  the  Rio  Grande;  and  the  Paraguay,  into  which  flow  the  Pilcomayo  and  the  Otuquis,  or 
Rio  Negro,  with  their  tributaries,  supply  irrigation  for  the  whole  vast  region  of  eastern  and 
northern  Bolivia.  Of  these  rivers  the  Rio  Grande,  with  the  Mamore,  has  the  longest  and  most 
circuitous  route,  having  its  source  in  the  serranias  between  Oruro  and  Cochabamba  and 
watering,  with  its  numerous  tributaries,  the  departments  of  Cochabamba,  Chuquisaca,  Santa 
Cruz,  and  the  Beni.  At  its  source  the  Rio  Grande  is  a turbulent  stream,  and  in  the  rainy 
season  swells  to  a fierce  torrent,  destroying  everything  in  its  way  as  it  rushes  down  through 
the  qiiehradas,  widening  and  deepening  its  channel,  until  it  reaches  a breadth  of  nearly  a mile 
a few  leagues  to  the  east  of  the  city  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  where  it  sweeps  northward 
to  pour  its  surging  tide  into  the  Mamore.  During  the  dry  season,  it  is  confined  in  a narrower 
channel,  and  is  a placid,  gently  flowing  stream.  This  changing  character  of  the  Rio  Grande 
is  common  to  all  the  rivers  that  water  the  same  region.  The  Pilcomayo,  which  rises  in  the 
Cordillera  near  Sucre,  receives  many  foaming  mountain  streams  on  its  way  to  the  plains  of 
the  Chaco,  and  in  rainy  weather  it  is  a formidable  flood,  but  it  diminishes  in  volume  during  its 
progress  through  the  Chaco,  where  it  widens  in  some  places  to  more  than  a mile.  After  a 
course  of  two  hundred  leagues,  it  enters  the  Paraguay  a sluggish  and  shallow  river,  navi- 
gable only  for  small  steamers  of  two  hundred  tons,  and  lighter  vessels.  Navigation  in 
steam  launches  is  the  general  method  of  transportation  on  the  Madre  de  Dios,  Beni,  Mamore, 


298 


BOLiyiA 


and  Guapore  Rivers  in  the  summer  months,  from  December  to  May,  and  even  in  June  and 
July  these  launches  can  still  be  used,  but  with  greater  difficulties  and  delays;  during  the  rest 
of  the  year  small  craft  have  to  take  their  place.  The  trip  up  the  river  is  much  slower  and 
more  tedious  than  the  descent,  though  the  latter  is  sometimes  dreaded  because  of  the  swift 
currents.  It  is  impossible  to  have  a schedule  for  river  steamers,  as  everything  depends  on 
the  condition  of  the  river,  and  in  the  dry  season  boulders  and  other  obstacles  may  entirely 
block  the  channel  for  an  indefinite  period,  so  that  even  small  boats  cannot  pass.  With  the 
increase  of  industrial  development  in  this  part  of  Bolivia,  greater  attention  is  being  paid  to 
the  condition  of  the  rivers  and  streams,  with  a view  to  utilizing  their  overflow  and  providing 
against  blockade.  The  summer  and  autumn  months,  particularly  the  latter,  are  usually 
chosen  by  travellers  in  eastern  and  northern  Bolivia,  because,  although  the  land  journey 
may  be  less  agreeable  on  account  of  bad  roads  or  swollen  streams,  the  rivers  are  in  better 
condition  for  navigation.  A vast  extent  of  fine  forest  and  rich  soil  stretches  out  for  many 
leagues  along  the  course  of  the  rivers  of  eastern  Bolivia,  probably  fifty  per  cent  of  the  whole 
country  being  forest.  The  scenery  in  some  parts  is  very  beautiful.  Mr.  John  Minchln, 
president  of  the  municipality  of  Oruro,  who  has  lived  in  Bolivia  for  many  years  and  has 
travelled  from  one  end  of  its  vast  territory  to  the  other,  gives  a charming  description  of  a 
journey  from  Cochabamba  to  Santa  Cruz,  when,  he  says,  “after  nine  days’  travelling  on 
muleback  from  Cochabamba,  and  on  reaching  the  summit  of  the  last  range,  the  eye  rests 


VALLEY  OF  SOPOCACHI,  NEAR  LA  PAZ. 


with  delight  on  the  dark  green  forest-clad  eastern  plains,  some  thousands  of  feet  below, 
forming  an  horizon  like  that  of  the  ocean,  and  stretching  out,  almost  without  interruption,  to 


A FIELD  FOR  LARGE  ENTERPRISES 


299 


the  banks  of  the  distant  Paraguay.  From  this  point,  in  the  early  morning,  the  wide  channel 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  some  fifty  miles  away,  winds  like  a white  ribbon  through  the  forest, 
the  river  itself,  like  a silver 
thread,  flashing  back  the  rays 
of  the  rising  sun.” 

It  is  in  the  vast  region  of 
virgin  forest  and  grassy  plain 
that  the  Bolivian  government 
most  desires  to  establish  for- 
eign colonies,  and  it  is  for  the 
purpose  of  developing  its  enor- 
mous resources  that  immigra- 
tion to  this  part  of  the  country 
is  being  encouraged  by  every 
possible  means.  At  present  the 
population  is  extremely  sparse, 
probably  not  exceeding  four 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants 
altogether,  in  a territory  cover- 
ing about  one  million  square 
kilometres.  The  prospect  is 
brighter  now  than  it  has  ever  been  for  the  realization  of  ambitious  plans  in  this  direction,  as 
the  tide  of  civilization  has  for  some  years  been  moving  northward  over  the  plains  of  Argen- 
tina, and,  with  the  increased  facilities  which  the  new  railroad  system  guarantees,  it  can  be 
only  a question  of  a few  years  when  these  vast  and  fertile  solitudes  will  be  peopled,  not  only 
from  neighboring  states,  but  from  foreign  lands.  The  teeming  millions  of  overcrowded 
Europe,  who  look  toward  America  as  their  haven  of  content  and  prosperity,  are  already 
beginning  to  turn  their  eyes  from  the  popular  goal  so  long  sought  in  the  United  States  and 
to  shape  their  course  toward  a shore  where  the  restrictions  upon  foreign  immigration  are 
less  rigorous  than  those  that  now  govern  the  laws  of  the  great  North  American  republic. 
Also,  the  opportunities  offered  to  immigrants  by  the  United  States  are  lessening  with  the 
increasing  population ; and  this  fact  cannot  fail  to  have  its  effect  in  turning  the  tide  to  South 
America,  where  competition  is  not  so  great,  and  independence  is  equally  assured  by  the  very 
liberal  laws  made  for  the  benefit  of  the  foreign  citizens.  Especially  is  it  true  of  Bolivia,  as 
foreigners  who  live  in  this  country  invariably  testify,  that  foreign  residents  are  treated  with 
the  greatest  consideration  and  enjoy  the  full  benefits  of  the  liberal  constitution  which 
governs  the  Bolivian  nation. 

In  August,  1903,  the  department  of  colonization  issued  a statement  of  the  regulations 
governing  the  acquirement  of  lands  for  colonizing  purposes,  which  shows  the  generous 
opportunity  offered  to  immigrants.  Allotments  are  made  free  under  special  circumstances. 


SINKING  GROUND,  CERRO  DE  MILLUNI. 


300 


BOLiyiA 


such  as  previous  occupation  for  ten  years,  or  the  conditions  of  applicants  who  are  natives 
of  the  place,  and  of  settlers  who  contribute  to  and  increase  agricultural  and  other  industries. 
Lands  may  be  assigned,  on  application,  to  enterprises  having  in  view  their  cultivation  and 
settlement,  subject  to  regulations  previously  stated  as  governing  their  purchase.  For  immi- 
grants who  wish  to  go  to  the  country  as  workmen  or  as  colonists,  the  acquisition  of  lands 
is  facilitated,  payments  are  made  easy  by  a system  of  instalments,  and  possession  is 
guaranteed.  The  government  frankly  states  that  only  colonists  who  are  accustomed  to 
work  are  desired,  especially  those  who  will  advance  agriculture  and  aid  in  developing  the 
rubber  industry,  and  no  effort  is  made  to  force  immigration  except  where  it  means  assured 
industrial  progress.  Immigrants  who  possess  no  capital  may  acquire  lands  for  permanent 
settlement,  if  industrious  and  enterprising:  and  to  those  who  have  families,  or  are  in  charge 
of  a group  of  settlers  employed  in  the  cultivation  and  exploitation  of  lands,  especial  facilities 
and  advantages  are  afforded,  both  for  the  acquisition  and  payment  of  lands. 

One  of  the  first  questions  asked  by  foreigners  when  inquiring  about  the  countries  of 
South  America  is:  “What  is  the  climate?”  and  there  seems  to  be  a general  impression  that 
the  climate  of  the  whole  South  American  continent  is  tropical  and  more  or  less  unhealthy. 
Yet,  with  the  exception  of  some  localities  in  the  equatorial  region,  the  conditions  are  as 
healthful  as  those  prevailing  in  North  America.  Bolivia  lies  within  the  torrid  zone,  but  its 
climate  depends  upon  the  altitude  rather  than  upon  the  latitude  of  the  various  localities. 
The  temperature  lowers  in  proportion  as  the  altitudes  become  higher,  and  varies  with  the 
latitude:  for  each  six  hundred  feet  of  height,  a degree  less — centigrade — is  observed  in 


SHEEP  RANCH  ON  THE  BOLIVIAN  PLATEAU. 


the  temperature.  The  modifications  which  are  due  to  altitude  are  no  doubt  responsible 
for  the  notable  and  sudden  changes  between  the  temperature  in  the  daytime  and  at  night. 


A FIELD  FOR  LARGE  ENTERPRISES 


301 


varying  in  colder  and  warmer  zones.  In  the  course  of  a few  hours  the  thermometer  daily 
runs  a scale  of  from  thirteen  to  seventeen  degrees  centigrade  in  the  valleys  and  from  eight 


THE  MARKET  PLACE,  COCHABAMBA, 


to  fifteen  degrees  in  places  close  to  the  Cordilleras.  The  Oficina  Nacional  de  Inmigracion, 
Estadistica  y Propaganda  Geografica  describes  the  climatic  conditions  of  Bolivia  in  accord- 
ance with  six  divisions  of  altitude : the  region  of  perpetual  snow,  at  seventeen  thousand  feet 
and  upward,  has  an  annual  average  temperature  of  one  degree  centigrade:  on  the  highest 
piiihi,  or  tableland,  with  an  altitude  of  sixteen  thousand  feet,  the  annual  average  is  six 
degrees:  the  Altaplanicie,  fourteen  thousand  feet  high,  shows  an  average  temperature  of 
twelve  degrees:  in  the  upper  valleys,  where  the  altitude  is  about  ten  thousand  feet,  the 
average  temperature  registers  fifteen  degrees:  the  more  fertile  valleys  in  the  lower  sernwias, 
eight  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  are  subject  to  a medium  temperature  of  eighteen  degrees: 
and  in  the  Yungas,  where  the  altitude  is  not  more  than  six  thousand  feet,  the  thermometer 
marks  about  twenty-one  degrees  on  an  annual  average.  In  the  region  of  perpetual  snow, 
the  temperature  ranges  annually  from  twenty-seven  degrees  to  zero,  with  an  average,  as 
previously  stated,  of  one  degree  centigrade.  Referring  to  the  seasons,  the  same  authority 
says ; “The  thermic  periods  do  not  coincide  with  the  astronomical  seasons,  the  meteorological 
changes  being  totally  different  from  those  occurring  outside  of  the  tropics,  not  only  because 
the  country  lies  within  the  torrid  zone,  but  from  other  causes.  The  spring  months  are 
August,  September,  and  October:  those  of  summer  are  November,  December,  and  January: 


302 


BOLIVIA 


autumn  extends  through  February,  March,  and  April;  and  winter,  through  May,  June,  and 
July.  Summer  is  divided  into  two  periods,  the  first  being  hot  and  dry,  and  the  second 
rainy.  The  heat  is  excessive,  even  in  high  altitudes,  where,  during  the  first  two  months, 
the  atmosphere  is  heavily  charged  with  electricity,  the  rains  beginning  during  the  third 
month.  Autumn  weather  is  really  experienced  only  during  the  months  of  March  and 
April,  the  summer  rains  usually  lasting  through  February;  and  even  during  the  autumn, 
the  humid  atmosphere  makes  the  season  only  a modified  summer.  In  the  Yungas  and  in  the 
level  regions  of  eastern  and  northeastern  Bolivia  winter  is  not  known,  the  only  change  of 
climate  being  marked  by  a wet  and  a dry  season,  but  in  the  higher  altitudes  frosts  are 
continuous,  and  snow  falls.” 

The  climate  of  Bolivia  is,  in  general,  extremely  favorable,  and  there  are  no  regions  totally 
unhealthful.  On  the  high  tablelands,  illness  from  causes  of  climate  are  practically  unknown, 
except  in  a few  instances  where  heart  trouble  is  developed  by  too  vigorous  exercise  at  this 
altitude.  In  the  valleys  of  the  Cordillera  Real  the  only  illness  is  from  occasional  intermittent 
fevers  in  the  summer  season,  though  these  are  no  more  frequent  than  in  the  semitropical 
regions  of  Europe  and  North  America.  Only  in  the  wet  season  are  the  tenia inis,  or  inter- 
mittent fevers  of  the  Beni,  developed,  and,  taken  altogether,  the  great  sloping  plains  between 
the  Andes  and  the  eastern  and  northern  borders  of  Bolivia  are  desirable  places  to  live  in,  the 
inhabitants,  both  native  and  foreign,  declaring  that,  with  a few  exceptions  along  the  lower 
levels  that  border  the  Madeira  and  the  Mamore,  this  region  has  one  of  the  most  delightful 
climates  in  the  world. 

A very  important  field  for  the  promotion  of  various  industries  is  now  opening  up  in 
Bolivia,  and  not  only  the  people  themselves,  but  their  neighbors  and  the  outside  world 
in  general,  are  taking  a greater  interest  than  ever  before  in  investigating  its  natural  resources. 


FRUIT  VENDOR  OF  COCHABAMBA. 


Ur. 


• • 


^■1 


•’Vi' 


'.1  ' s 


H'' 


r" 


'A-v. 

riVt... 


j. 


* 


tf. 


•\  - 


\ 


4 


L' 


PATIO  OF  THE  NATIONAL  MINT.  POTOSI. 


CHAPTER  XIX 


THE  OLD  MINT  OF  POTOSl— BOLIVIAN  COINAGE  AND  BANKING  LAWS— COMMERCE 

LJISTORIC  association  and  romantic  interest 
^ ^ combine  to  lend  a peculiar  charm  to  the  old 
Spanish  edifices  of  colonial  times  that  are  still  to 
be  seen  in  the  various  cities  of  South  America. 
Though  many  of  them  are  in  ruins,  and  others 
have  been  completely  modernized  to  serve  as  new 
public  buildings  or  residences,  there  are  still  a 
few  that  preserve  the  appearance  they  had  when 
erected  centuries  ago  “by  order  of  His  Excellency 
the  Viceroy.”  Of  these  generally  unclassified  archi- 
tectural monuments,  none  possesses  a greater  claim 
to  interest  than  the  famous  mint  of  Potosi,  the  Casa  Real  de  Moneda.  Its  history  dates 
from  the  most  flourishing  period  of  Spanish  possession  in  the  New  World,  and  is  intimately 
connected  with  the  accounts  of  fabulous  wealth  and  the  records  of  terrible  cruelty  written 
in  the  annals  of  the  seamed  and  weather  beaten  Cerro  de  Potosi. 

The  first  money  coined  in  the  Spanish-American  colonies  was  made  in  Mexico  in  the 
sixteenth  century,  when  the  first  viceroy,  Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza,  who  was  afterward 
second  Viceroy  of  Peru,  issued  the  decree  to  establish  a mint.  The  coins  were  cut  with 
scissors  out  of  hammered  silver  and  were  marked  with  a cross,  which  was  the  only  seal 
they  bore.  Some  years  later,  the  illustrious  Viceroy  Toledo,  during  a visit  to  Potosi  in  1^72, 
ordered  the  construction  of  the  Royal  Mint  of  Potosi.  It  occupied  the  site  of  the  present 
palace  of  justice,  the  old  chimney  of  the  foundry  still  remaining  to  mark  the  spot  where, 
more  than  three  hundred  years  ago,  silver  from  the  famous  Cerro  was  coined  into  reales,  of 
about  the  value  of  a dime.  By  a law  passed  soon  after  the  establishment  of  the  mint,  miners 
were  obliged  to  leave  here  a fourth  part  of  their  bullion,  which  had  been  assayed  and  smelted 
in  the  royal  foundries  after  the  payment  of  the  “fifth”  and  other  fiscal  taxes,  and  this  was 
reduced  to  reales  and  returned  to  the  owner  in  that  f(U'm.  In  the  seventeenth  century  the 

30? 


WOODEN  MACHINERY  FORMERLY  USED  IN  THE 
OLD  MINT  OF  POTOSL 


BOLIVIA 


;{o6 

annual  coinage  reached  the  sum  of  one  million  pesos,  of  eight  reales,  and  counterfeiting  began 
to  be  practised  on  such  a large  scale  that  it  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  King  Philip  IV., 

who  ordered  a rigorous  in- 
vestigation and  decreed  the 
death  penalty  against  offend- 
ers. Several  Spanish  nobles 
were  executed,  including  the 
chief  assayer  of  the  mint,  and 
a command  was  given  that  all 
money  held  by  private  individ- 
uals as  well  as  public  officials 
should  be  presented  for  exami- 
nation. Within  five  days  the 
amount  exhibited  was  thirty- 
six  million  pesos ! Shortly  after 
this  episode  a royal  decree 
was  issued  for  the  coinage  of 
money  bearing  the  stamp  of 
two  columns,  instead  of  a 
cross,  but  it  was  not  until  1728 
that  a royal  ordinance  estab- 
lished the  circular  form  of  the 
money,  its  standard,  and  other 
important  conditions  neces- 
sary to  a satisfactory  basis  of 
coinage. 

The  present  Casa  de  Mo- 
neda  was  founded  in  1773, 
and  required  twenty  years  for 
building,  the  cost  amounting 
to  nearly  two  million  pesos.  As  materials  were  cheap  and  laborers  were  paid  practically 
nothing  under  the  niita  system,  this  cost  seemed  incredible  to  the  Spanish  king,  Charles  111., 
who,  when  informed  of  the  expense,  exclaimed:  “The  building  must  be  made  of  silver!” 
But  the  beams  of  iipj  wood  and  crossbeams  of  cedar,  which  are  as  solid  to-day  as  when 
put  in  place  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  had  to  be  brought  from  a great  distance  and 
with  enormous  difficulty.  According  to  the  chronicles  of  the  period,  there  were  single  pieces 
of  wood  which  cost  two  thousand  pesos  each  for  transportation.  Roads  were  opened  and 
levelled  through  the  wild  regions  of  eastern  Charcas  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  providing 
a route  to  Potosi  from  the  hardwood  forests  of  Tomina  and  Oran,  the  latter  being  situated 
more  than  two  hundred  leagues  distant,  in  the  present  territory  of  Argentina.  Thousands 


FOUNDRY  OF  THE  MINT,  POTOSf. 


MINT,  COINAGE,  BANKING  LAIVS,  AND  COMMERCE 


307 

of  Indians  were  employed  in  the  colossal  task  of  constructing  this  large  edifice,  which  is  a 
marvel  of  solidity  and  endurance.  It  occupies  a central  locality  in  the  city  of  Potosi,  on  the 
Plaza  del  Gato,  and  covers  two  squares.  Built  of  solid  stone  and  brick  masonry,  its  dome 
and  floors  supported  by  beams  of  imperishable  hardwood,  it  is  as  strong  as  a fortress,  for 
which  purpose  it  has  been  used  many  times  in  the  history  of  the  republic.  The  fiery  orator 
Casimiro  Olaheta  called  it,  upon  one  occasion,  “the  Bastille  of  Bolivia,”  a title  which  has 
clung  to  it  with  the  persistence  that  is  usually  noted  in  the  popular  adoption  of  comparisons 
suggestive  of  classical  associations.  The  first  money  coined  in  the  new  mint  bore  the  bust 
of  King  Charles  111.  and  the  royal  arms  of  Castile.  The  machinery  used  in  this  coinage  is 
still  to  be  seen  in  the  museum  of  the  mint,  and  is  a curious  collection  of  old  wooden  wheels, 
spikes,  and  beams.  The  machinery  for  pressing  the  sheets  of  silver  to  the  required  thinness 
before  cutting  out  the  coins  is  located  on  the  second  floor,  and  was  formerly  connected,  on 
the  floor  below,  with  a treadmill  which  used  to  be  worked  by  mules  and  Indians.  The 
whole  apparatus  is  of  the  clumsiest  and  most  primitive  description. 

The  mint  of  Potosi,  as  it  is  operated  under  the  present  government,  is  provided  with 
modern  machinery,  the  first  purchase  having  been  made  during  the  administration  of 


LA  PAZ  CUSTOM  HOUSH. 


President  Melgarejo  in  1868,  at  a cost,  it  is  stated,  of  three  hundred  thousand  bolivianos. 
New  machinery  was  bought  in  1900,  and  an  order  was  given  still  more  recently  for  the 


3o8 


BOLIVIA 


purchase  of  apparatus  necessary  for  the  elaboration  of  the  sulphides  of  silver  and  of 
the  ashes  and  sand  that  result  from  the  treatment  of  silver  metal.  All  the  machinery  now 

in  use  in  the  mint  was  bought  in  the  United 
States.  Since  18^7  no  gold  has  been  coined, 
and  by  a law  passed  in  190c  the  English 
pound  sterling  is  recognized  as  a standard 
of  exchange  for  the  value  of  twelve  bolivi- 
anos and  fifty  centavos;  but  with  the  modern 
machinery,  recently  purchased,  the  govern- 
ment is  prepared  to  renew  the  coinage  of 
gold  whenever  it  may  be  deemed  advisable. 
Silver  coins  of  fifty  centavos  and  twenty 
centavos  are  the  only  moneys  issued  by  the 
mint  at  present,  though  this  is  a temporary 
arrangement.  During  the  year  1904  the 
coinage  was  eight  hundred  and  sixteen  thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty-seven  bolivianos. 
The  total  coinage  of  the  mint,  from  its  foundation  to  the  present  time,  is  one  billion  eight 
hundred  million  pesos,  silver,  and  about  five  million  pesos,  gold. 

Outside  of  the  section  where  the  foundry  is  at  work  and  where  the  machinery  is 
whirring  in  the  busy  process  of  turning  silver  bars  into  half-dollars,  or  medio  bolivianos,  the 
Casa  de  Moneda  suggests  the  events  of  a century  ago  rather  than  of  modern  activity  and 
enterprise.  The  handsomely  carved  doorway  is  the  work  of  artists  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  and  the  patios,  of  which  there  are  several,  are  reminders  of  incidents  that  happened 
more  than  a hundred  years  ago.  In  the  inner  patio,  an  old  sun-dial  marks  the  site  of  the 
execution  of  Alonso  Ibanez,  one  of  the  first  patriots  to  die  for  the  cause  of  liberty  in  the  New 
World.  Passages  lead  from  this  court  to  hidden  recesses  in  the  old  building,  some  of  them 
in  a subterranean  labyrinth  of  turns  and  windings  that  are  hopelessly  puzzling  to  the  unini- 
tiated. One  cannot  help  speculating  as  to  the  possible  uses  to  which  these  dungeon-like 
alleys  may  have  been  put  in  the  urgent  emergencies  of  revolutionary  times,  and  a covered 
cistern  built  in  the  thick  wall  between  two  suspicious-looking  cells  suggests  all  kinds  of 
weird  and  tragic  scenes.  The  watchman  of  the  mint  says  that  the  old  building  is  known  to 
very  few,  and  that  he  himself  finds  passages  which  are  new  to  him  every  time  he  makes  a 
careful  exploration.  In  the  first  patio  a modern  ornament,  the  work  of  an  artist  of  fifty 
years  ago,  occupies  a conspicuous  position  over  the  central  arch.  It  is  a huge,  grotesque 
head,  painted  in  vivid  colors,  and  is  said  to  have  been  placed  there  as  a caricature  in  disre- 
spect for  one  of  the  most  radical  of  Bolivia’s  presidents.  It  is  the  first  object  that  is  seen 
upon  entering  the  main  patio  from  the  street,  and  is  a conspicuously  striking  adornment.  In 
the  unused  part  ()f  the  mint,  on  the  second  floor,  where  the  old  machinery  is  preserved  as  a 
curiosity  and  a valued  relic,  the  rooms  remain  much  the  same  as  they  were  when  the  noble 
officers  of  the  Spanish  king  held  sway  as  directors  of  the  institution.  There  is  something 


MINT,  COINAGE,  BANKING  LAA/S,  AND  COMMERCE 


fascinating  in  the  glimpses  which  tlie  now  deserted  rooms  afford  of  the  character  of  those 
times,  when  this  great  establishment,  which  was  maintained  at  the  price  of  untold  abuses 
and  infinite  intrigue,  bore  on  every  door  some  devout  eulogy  or  prayer.  O duke  Tirgo 
Maria!  is  the  pious  sentiment  still  to  be  read  over  the  entrance  to  the  old  stamping 
room,  and  O clemens,  6 pia!  marks  the  doorway  through  which  the  unfortunate  Indians 
passed  to  work  out  their  mita  on  the  treadmill  or  at  the  furnace.  Not  less  interesting  is 
the  library,  in  which  are  preserved  specimens  of  the  coins  and  medals  that  have  been 
issued  by  the  Casa  de  Moneda  since  its  foundation.  Around  the  walls  hang  old  paintings 
which  were  presented  to  the  mint  by  King  Charles  IV.,  said  to  be  the  work  of  famous 
painters  of  the  Spanish  court.  Old  parchments  contain  historical  records  of  value,  and 
there  are  a few  relics  of  the  earliest  days  of  the  first  mint,  though  it  is  to  be  regretted 
that  greater  care  has  not  been 
taken  to  preserve  these  price- 
less treasures. 

According  to  law,  the  bo- 
liviano is  the  standard  of  the 
national  coinage.  It  weighs 
twenty-five  grammes,  con- 
tains three  hundred  and  forty- 
seven  and  one-half  grains  of 
pure  silver,  and  is  worth  one 
hundred  centavos.  But  at 
present  the  silver  money  in 
circulation  is  represented  only 
in  pieces  of  fifty,  twenty,  ten, 
and  five  centavos,  of  a stand- 
ard and  weight  in  propor- 
tion to  that  of  the  boliviano. 

When  at  par,  the  boliviano 
is  worth  five  francs.  It  is 
now  worth  about  two  francs. 

Exportation  of  silver  money 
is  free,  but  its  importation  is 
prohibited.  No  money  is  rec- 
ognized as  legal  except  that 
which  is  legitimately  emitted 
by  the  state,  in  conformity 

with  the  existing  laws.  Banknotes,  popularly  called  hiUetes,  represent  the  equivalent  of 
one,  five,  ten,  twenty,  fifty,  and  one  hundred  bolivianos.  It  is  not  unusual  in  La  Paz  and 
elsewhere  to  see  a hillete  divided  into  halves  to  make  change,  though  the  halves  are  not 


ARGANDONA  BANK,  SUCRE. 


310 


BOLIVIA 


accepted  by  the  banks,  and  serve  only  as  a convenience  in  the  use  of  small  change.  The 
amount  of  banknotes  in  circulation  is  estimated  at  a little  over  ten  million  bolivianos. 

In  order  to  increase  confidence  abroad  and  to  promote  economic  advancement  at 
home,  the  government  of  Bolivia  is  giving  special  attention  to  perfecting  the  monetary 

laws  of  the  country.  One  of 
the  most  eminent  authorities 
on  Bolivian  finance,  Sehor  P. 
Beer,  director  of  the  German- 
Chilean  bank,  in  La  Paz  and 
Oruro,  who  very  kindly  fur- 
nished the  information  which 
is  here  given  on  this  subject, 
speaks  in  the  highest  terms  of 
the  favorable  financial  outlook 
for  Bolivia.  The  recognition  of 
the  English  pound  sterling  as  a 
standard  of  exchange,  equiva- 
lent to  twelve  bolivianos  and 
fifty  centavos  is  an  important 
step,  as  formerly  the  variations 
in  the  price  of  silver  caused 
considerable  fluctuation  in  the 
value  of  the  boliviano.  It  is  obligatory  to  pay  half  of  all  duties  in  gold,  or,  if  paid  in  silver,  an 
increase  of  five  per  cent  is  charged  to  cover  the  cost  of  the  importation  of  gold.  Fluctuations 
in  exchange  have  greatly  diminished  under  the  new  law,  having  been  reduced  from  threepence 
to  one  penny  and  a quarter  within  the  year.  Under  the  present  rule,  the  minimum  value  of 
the  boliviano  is  nineteen  pence,  the  maximum  twenty  and  one-fourth  pence.  This  is  regarded 
as  the  first  step  toward  the  introduction  of  the  gold  standard.  The  government  is  also  con- 
sidering various  projects  for  improving  the  banking  laws.  The  emission  of  the  banks  will  be 
reduced  and  unified.  When  the  Acre  campaign  exacted  extraordinary  expenditure  on  the 
part  of  the  government,  tire  necessary  funds  were  secured  by  loans  on  the  hanks  of  the 
country.  The  National  Bank  of  Bolivia,  the  Argandoha  Bank,  and  the  Industrial  Bank  of 
La  Paz  had  the  right  to  issue  notes,  or  billdes,  for  the  sum  of  their  paid-up  capital,  on  the 
condition  that  thirty  per  cent  of  the  notes  in  circulation  were  covered  by  coin  stored  in  their 
vaults.  By  a special  law,  these  banks  were  authorized  to  increase  their  emission  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  per  cent  of  their  paid-up  capital,  and  by  this  means  they  were  able  to 
provide  the  government  with  the  funds  necessary  for  the  Acre  campaign.  In  this  way  an 
internal  debt  was  incurred,  which  at  present  amounts  to  a little  more  than  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  pounds  sterling,  covered  by  state  bonds  that  are  guaranteed  by  the  income 
from  the  customs  duties  of  La  Paz,  about  eighty  thousand  pounds  sterling  annually.  These 


MINT,  COINAGE,  BANKING  LABCS,  AND  COMMERCE 


bonds  are  amortised  at  six  per  cent,  and  the  annual  interest  on  them  is  ten  per  cent,  this 
arrangement  being  carried  out  regularly  twice  a year,  so  that  the  debt  may  be  considered  as 
practically  cancelled.  Another  internal  debt,  consequent  upon  the  Acre  campaign,  consists 
of  the  pension  roll,  military  salaries,  indemnities,  etc.,  and  is  met  by  bonds  of  the  Compen- 
sacion  Militar,  of  which  twenty  thousand  pounds  sterling  are  in  circulation.  Ten  per  cent  is 
amortised  and  the  bonds  earn  ten  per  cent  interest  annually.  The  part  amortised  is  replaced 
by  new  bonds.  Congress  is  at  present  occupied  with  an  old  internal  debt,  amounting  to 
about  three  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling,  which  has  not  been  entirely  recognized,  but 
which  will  be  paid  as  far  as  justifiable,  with  the  approbation  of  Congress.  The  municipal 
debts  are  confined  entirely  to  private  loans.  La  Paz  is  contracting  a loan  of  forty  thousand 
pounds  sterling,  with  which  to 


build  new  hospitals  and  to  per- 
fect the  canalization  of  the  city. 

Not  only  has  Bolivia 
adopted  methods  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  national 
finances,  but  by  treaties  with 
the  neighboring  republics,  the 
government  has  recovered  sov- 
ereignty over  the  import  duties 
on  products  and  manufactures 
from  the  republics  of  Chile  and 
Peru.  Both  these  republics 
formerly  had  the  right  to  intro- 
duce their  products  and  manu- 
factures free  of  duties,  by  virtue 
of  temporary  treaties.  Under 
the  new  treaties,  Chile  and  Peru 
enjoy  only  the  rights  of  favored 
nations  in  bringing  in  their 
merchandise.  It  is  estimated 
that  the  increase  in  import 
duties  arising  from  this  arrange- 
ment  will  yield  Bolivia  at  least 
eighty  thousand  pounds  ster- 
ling annually.  Under  such 
auspicious  circumstances  the 

government  is  inaugurating  a new  era  in  commercial  development.  There  are  several 
reasons  why  the  statistics  of  international  trade  give  Bolivia  a comparatively  unimportant 
place  among  commercial  nations.  When  the  foreign  trade  of  Bolivia  passed  through  the 


NATIONAL  BANK  OF  BOLIVIA.  SUCRE. 


312 


BOLIVIA 


ports  of  Peru,  Chile,  Argentina,  and  Brazil,  without  a clearly  defined  law  regarding  the  port 
privileges,  the  Bolivian  exports  were  largely  credited  to  these  countries,  a condition  of  affairs 

which  can  be  corrected  under  the  present  sys- 
tem of  customs  regulations.  Limited  facilities 
for  transportation  have  been  responsible,  in 
a great  degree,  for  the  lack  of  commercial 
enterprise  which  has  hitherto  retarded  the 
progress  of  the  country,  but  this  drawback 
has  also  been  overcome.  Bolivia  is  no  longer 
isolated  from  the  rest  of  the  world  because 
of  the  great  wall  of  the  Andes  which  looms 
up  on  one  side  and  the  thousands  of  miles 
that  stretch  between  it  and  the  seacoast  on 
the  other,  since  the  problem  of  rapid  trans- 
portation has  been  solved  by  the  inauguration 
of  a complete  system  of  railways.  The  importance  of  railway  facilities  in  promoting  com- 
merce is  shown  by  the  history  of  the  Antofagasta  and  Oruro  Railway  and  the  Guaqui  and 
La  Paz  Railway.  As  previously  stated,  since  the  construction  of  the  former  line  the  ship- 
ments through  the  port  of  Antofagasta  have  increased  seventy  per  cent,  and  after  the  line 
from  La  Paz  had  been  in  operation  a year  the  statements  of  shipping  showed  an  increase  of 
fffty  per  cent  over  previous  years. 

Liberal  conditions  govern  the  international  relations  of  Bolivia,  the  protective  policy 
being  moderate  in  the  commercial  system  of  this  country.  Foreign  merchandise,  whether 
from  Europe,  North  America,  or  elsewhere,  finds  easy  access  to  the  markets  here,  and,  in 
compensation  for  the  difficulties  of  transportation,  advantageous  terms  are  made  in  the  regu- 
lation of  customs  duties  on  goods  of  foreign  manufacture.  Bolivia  imports,  chiefly,  all  kinds 
of  machinery,  hardware,  furniture,  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  clothing,  wines,  spirits,  canned 
goods,  and  provisions.  Every  article  imported  must  pass  through  one  of  the  Aduanas,  or 
custom  houses,  of  the  republic,  to  be  examined  and  subjected  to  the  customs  charges,  unless 
exempt  by  special  laws,  such  as  govern  the  privileges  of  diplomatic  representatives,  who 
pay  no  customs  duties.  The  scale  of  duties  on  goods  imported  is  fixed  every  eighteen 
months,  and  rules  from  the  date  named  by  the  national  Congress.  The  annual  imports 
amount  to  one  million  five  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling  in  value,  and  the  exports  to 
two  million  five  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling,  according  to  the  latest  statistics.  Peru 
takes  first  place  in  supplying  the  Bolivian  market,  with  nearly  one-fifth  of  all  imported  goods. 
Germany  follows  with  eighteen  per  cent,  England  with  seventeen  per  cent,  and  the  United 
States  with  sixteen  per  cent.  The  chief  exports  are  silver,  tin,  copper,  bismuth,  rubber, 
quinine,  coca,  and  hardwoods.  The  mining  industry  provides  about  eighty-five  per  cent  of 
Bolivian  exports,  and  rubber  constitutes  the  remainder,  except  about  three  per  cent,  which 
is  represented  in  quinine,  coca,  and  miscellaneous  products. 


MINT,  COINAGE,  BANKING  LACKS,  AND  COMMERCE 


313 

The  principal  shipping  headquarters,  in  which  are  located  the  Aduanas,  or  custom  houses 
of  the  republic,  are:  La  Paz,  Oruro,  Uyuni,  Tupiza,  Tarija,  Puerto  Suarez,  Villa  Bella,  Abuna, 
and  the  new  Aduanilla,  or  minor  custom  house,  of  Itenez,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rio  Verde 
and  the  Guapore,  on  the  southeastern  border  of  the  Beni.  The  custom  house  of  Guaqui, 
the  chief  Bolivian  port  on  Lake  Titicaca,  has  been  removed  to  La  Paz.  The  commerce 
through  the  custom  house  of  La  Paz  last  year  amounted  to  nearly  a million  pounds  sterling, 
and  import  and  export  taxes  were  collected  in  the  sum  of  one  hundred  thousand  pounds 
sterling,  representing  the  most  important  share  of  the  trade  of  the  republic.  The  custom- 
house agencies  of  Port  Perez,  Huaicho,  Pelechuco,  Desaguadero,  and  Copacabana  are 
dependencies  of  the  La  Paz  custom  house.  The  Oruro  Aduana  is  for  the  inspection  of 
the  commercial  movement  that  passes  through  the  Agenda  Aduanera  of  Antofagasta. 
Last  year’s  report  of  the  minister  of  finance  shows  the  revenue  from  import  and  export 
taxes  at  Oruro  to  be  about  thirty  thousand  pounds  sterling.  Under  the  new  treaty 
with  Chile  it  is  made  possible  to  secure  more  accurate  figures  regarding  the  exports 
through  Antofagasta,  which  are  despatched  from  the  Aduanas  of  Oruro,  Uyuni,  and 
Tupiza,  as  well  as  from  the  tax-collecting  offices  of  Potosi  and  Chayanta.  Oruro  is  the 
great  exporting  centre  for  silver  and  tin,  which  are  produced  in  large  quantities  in  this 
region.  In  addition  to  the  Agencia  Aduanera,  or  custom  house  agency,  in  Antofagasta, 
Bolivia  has  similar  offices  in  the  ports  of  Mollendo  and  Arica.  The  custom  house  of 
Uyuni,  which,  like  that  of  Oruro,  is  one  of  revision,  collects  a storage  tax  that  constitutes 
one  of  its  important  sources  of  revenue.  Its  record  of  commerce  last  year  showed  a 
notable  increase  over  that  of  the  year  previous,  amounting  to  eighteen  thousand  pounds 
sterling.  The  Aduana  of  Tupiza,  near  the  Argentine  border,  secures  its  revenue  chietly 


IMPORTING  HOUSE  OF  BEBIN  BROTHERS,  CHALLAPATA. 


through  the  exportation  of  national  products  and  by  tolls,  the  import  duties  amounting 
to  about  one  thousand  pounds  sterling  annually.  Connected  with  this  Aduana  are 


BOLIVIA 


314 

the  small  stations,  or  resguardos,  of  Sococha,  Talina,  Estarca,  San  Pablo,  Chaguana, 
Esmoraca,  and  Mojo,  for  the  protection  of  trade  on  the  Argentine  frontier.  A great 

deal  of  the  commerce  with 
Argentina,  and,  through  its  port 
of  Rosario,  with  other  foreign 
countries,  passes  through  the 
custom  house  of  Tarija  and 
those  of  its  dependencies, 
Salitre,  Pulario,  Padcaya,  and 
Camacho,  its  total  commerce 
for  190^  amounting  to  about 
thirty-five  thousand  pounds 
sterling. 

The  commerce  of  northern 
Bolivia  which  passes  through 
Brazil  is  conducted  chiefly  by 
means  of  Aduanas  and  Adua- 
nillas  in  the  river  ports  of  the 
upper  Amazon.  The  chief  of 
these  is  Villa  Bella,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Beni  and  the  Mamore  on  the  great  Madeira  River.  It  was  established  in  1880 
as  an  Adiianilla  and  raised  to  the  more  important  rank  in  1886.  The  distance  from  this  port 
to  Para,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  River,  is  two  thousand  three  hundred  and  seventy- 
three  miles.  Most  of  the  commerce  of  the  Beni  and  the  Territorio  de  Colonias  passes  through 
Villa  Bella,  though  since  the  recent  boundary  settlement  with  Brazil,  the  frontier  port  of 
Abuna,  at  the  junction  of  the  Abuna  and  Madeira  Rivers  further  north,  has  been  increasing 
in  importance  as  a shipping  port  for  this  region. 

Eastern  Bolivia  has,  in  Puerto  Suarez,  a shipping  place  for  merchandise  destined  for 
the  Paraguay  River  ports  and  La  Plata.  It  is  a thriving  town,  situated  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Paraguay,  in  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz,  opposite  the  Brazilian  port  of 
Corumba.  The  dependencies  of  the  custom  house  of  Puerto  Suarez  are  La  Gaiba,  Marco, 
and  San  Ignacio,  also  on  the  Paraguay  River.  Ocean  steamers  ascend  the  river  Para- 
guay as  far  as  Puerto  Suarez,  and  a regular  line,  that  of  the  Lloyd-Brazileiro  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  Brazil,  has  a weekly  service  to  Corumba,  which  is  one  of  the  principal  Brazilian 
ports  on  the  Paraguay  River.  With  the  completion  of  the  new  system  of  Bolivian  rail- 
ways, Puerto  Suarez  will  become  one  of  the  most  important  commercial  centres  of  the 
republic,  as  it  is  to  be  connected  by  rail  with  Santa  Cruz  and  the  Beni,  a region  rich  in 
natural  products.  There  is  now  a well-beaten  road  from  Puerto  Suarez  to  Santa  Cruz,  and 
surveys  have  been  made  for  the  proposed  railway.  The  commerce  which  passes  through 
Puerto  Suarez  is  chiefly  that  of  Santa  Cruz  and  the  Beni,  and  amounts  to  one  hundred  and 


MINT,  COINAGE,  BANKING  LACKS,  AND  COMMERCE 


AS 

twenty-five  thousand  pounds  sterling  annually,  of  which  two-thirds  is  represented  by  the 
export  of  rubber. 

The  commerce  of  Bolivia  is  conducted  chiefly  through  large  importing  and  exporting 
houses  in  the  various  cities,  and  the  financial  operations  connected  with  it  are  carried  on  by 
means  of  banking  institutions  in  these  cities.  In  the  smaller  and  more  remote  commercial 
centres  the  business  houses  are  also  banking  agencies.  The  financial  standing  of  these 
important  establishments  furnishes  the  chief  index  to  the  commercial  prosperity  of  any 
section  of  the  country.  The  oldest  bank  of  the  republic  now  in  existence  under  its  original 
charter  is  the  Credito  Hipotecario  de  Bolivia,  which  was  established  in  La  Paz  in  1870.  Its 
authorized  capital  is  ten  million  bolivianos,  subscribed  capital  two  million  bolivianos,  and 
paid-up  capital  six  hundred  thousand  bolivianos.  The  president,  Sehor  Don  Fermin  Cusi- 
canqui  is  also  president  of  the  Banco  Industrial  of  La  Paz,  and  is  greatly  esteemed  as  one  of 
the  leading  financiers  of  Bolivia.  The  vice-president,  Sehor  Don  Jose  Gutierrez  Guerra,  to 
whose  courtesy  is  due  the  acquirement  of  valuable  data  for  this  chapter,  is  prominent  in 
financial  circles,  not  only  through  his  relations  with  this  institution,  but  as  one  of  the  directors 
of  the  well-known  bank  of  Crespo  and  Gutierrez  Guerra,  of  La  Paz.  The  Credito  Hipote- 
cario de  Bolivia  has  a branch  office  in  Cochabamba.  In  consequence  of  a fraud  perpetrated 
in  the  Cochabamba  office  a few  years  ago,  which  resulted  in  the  loss  of  half  a million 
bolivianos,  this  bank  suspended  the  payment  of  dividends  for  a time,  but  the  stock- 
holders received  eight  per  cent  dividend  for  the  last  half-year  of  190^,  showing  that  the 


GUAQUI,  ON  LAKE  TITICACA,  ONE  OF  THE  CHIEF  SHIPPING  PORTS. 


institution  has  recovered  from  the  effects  of  its  loss.  The  Banco  Nacional  de  Bolivia, 
established  in  1871,  succeeded  the  Banco  Boliviano,  the  first  in  Bolivia.  It  is  one  of  the 


3i6 


BOLiyiA 


most  important  in  the  republic,  and  has  a paid-up  capital  of  three  million  bolivianos,  with  a 
reserve  fund  of  nearly  two  hundred  thousand  bolivianos.  In  1906  a mortgage  section  was 
established,  for  which  the  bank  has  a capital  of  one  hundred  thousand  bolivianos.  The 
dividends  paid  to  stockholders  in  190^  amounted  to  ten  per  cent.  This  bank  has  its  head- 
quarters in  Sucre,  with  agencies  in  La  Paz,  Cochabamba,  Oruro,  Potosl,  Tarija,  and  Tupiza. 
The  Banco  Francisco  Argandoha,  of  Sucre,  belongs  to  the  Prince  de  Glorieta,  the  Bolivian 
minister  in  Paris,  and,  although  it  is  constituted  an  anonymous  society,  all  the  shares  are 
held  by  the  Argandoha  family,  one  of  the  richest  in  South  America.  The  paid-up  capital  of 
this  bank  is  two  million  five  hundred  thousand  bolivianos.  The  principal  agencies  of  the 
bank  are  located  in  Cochabamba,  La  Paz,  Oruro,  and  Potosi.  The  head  offices,  both  of 
the  National  Bank  and  the  Argandoha  Bank,  are  handsome  edifices,  situated  in  the  Calle  de 
los  Bancos,  or  Street  of  the  Banks,  in  Sucre.  An  important  banking  institution  of  Sucre  is 


PUERTO  SUAREZ,  ONE  OF  THE  PORTS  ON  THE  PARAGUAY  RIVER. 


called  the  Banco  Hipotecario  Garantizador  de  Valores.  It  was  established  in  1887,  and  has 
a subscribed  capital  of  one  million  bolivianos,  with  a paid-up  capital  of  one  hundred  thousand 
bolivianos.  In  1907  a dividend  of  twenty-nine  per  cent  was  declared  on  the  paid-up  capital. 
The  emission  of  mortgage  notes  in  circulation  on  December  31,  1907,  amounted  to  five 
hundred  and  fifteen  thousand  three  hundred  bolivianos.  These  certificates  bear  an  annual 
interest  of  ten  per  cent,  and  are  quoted  in  the  market  at  a premium  of  eight  per  cent.  The 
Banco  Industrial  of  La  Paz  does  a very  large  business,  especially  in  western  and  northern 
Bolivia.  The  authorized  capital  of  this  bank  is  four  million  bolivianos,  its  paid-up  capital 
is  one  million  five  hundred  thousand  bolivianos,  and  the  dividend  paid  in  1907  was  fourteen 
per  cent.  It  has  branches  in  Oruro  and  Cochabamba. 

Cochabamba,  as  the  centre  of  a rich  agricultural  district,  having  extensive  com- 
mercial relations,  has  several  important  banking  institutions.  The  Banco  Hipotecario 
Nacional,  founded  in  La  Paz  in  1890,  has  its  headquarters  in  this  city,  where  it  was 


MINT,  COINAGE,  BANKING  LAIVS,  AND  COMMERCE 


317 

established  in  1903.  The  subscribed  capital  of  this  bank  is  one  million  bolivianos;  it  has 
a paid-up  capital  of  one  hundred  thousand  and  guarantee  and  reserve  funds  of  thirty-three 
thousand  bolivianos.  A dividend  of  twenty  per  cent  was  paid  last  year.  One  of  the  most 
recently  established  banks  is  the  Banco  Agricola,  of  La  Paz,  created  by  law  in  1902,  and 
opened  on  November  17,  1903.  The  authorized  capital  of  this  bank  is  two  million 
bolivianos,  the  paid-up  capital  six  hundred  thousand  bolivianos,  the  contingent  and  reserve 
funds  eight  thousand  bolivianos,  and  the  undivided  surplus  four  thousand  and  forty-four 
bolivianos.  Twelve  per  cent  dividends  were  paid  in  1907.  The  foreign  banks  of  Bolivia 
are  represented  by  the  German-Chilean  Bank,  which  has  its  Bolivian  head  office  in  La  Paz 
and  a branch  in  Oruro,  and  the  Bank  of  Tarapaca,  an  English  institution.  The  chief  head- 
quarters of  the  German-Chilean  Bank  is  in  Hamburg,  the  Bolivian  agency  having  charge  of 
all  operations  in  this  country,  such  as  the  arrangement  of  loans,  the  issue  of  drafts,  letters 
of  exchange,  and  similar  business.  There  are  several  foreign  life  insurance  companies  that 
have  agencies  in  Bolivia,  chiefly  Peruvian  and  Argentine  enterprises. 

Commercial  progress  in  Bolivia  owes  a great  deal  to  the  efforts  of  the  commercial 
societies,  which  are  generally  composed  of  bankers  and  importers  or  leaders  in  industrial 
development.  La  Paz,  Sucre,  Oruro,  and  Tarija,  each  has  a Camara  de  Comercio  for  the 
purpose  of  stimulating  trade;  Cochabamba’s  Circulo  Comercial  has  the  same  object  in  view; 
and  the  Junta  Comercial  e Industrial  of  La  Paz  seeks  the  advancement  of  both  trade  and 
industry.  These  societies  work  by  methods  similar  to  those  of  the  various  chambers  of 
commerce  in  England  and  North  America,  and  among  their  members  are  managers  of  foreign 
as  well  as  native  business  houses.  In  all  the  larger  cities  the  Germans  have  established 
themselves  in  business,  either  on  their  own  account  or  as  representatives  of  German  houses. 
English,  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and  North  American  merchants  are  among  the  European 
residents  of  La  Paz,  Oruro,  Cochabamba,  Sucre,  and  Potosi,  though  the  Germans  are  in  the 
majority.  The  importing  house  of  Bebin  Brothers,  in  Challapata,  supplies  a large  territory 
with  European  and  North  American  goods.  The  Bolivian  house  of  Morales  and  Bertram  is 
one  of  the  most  important  business  establishments  of  Sucre,  and  the  German  importers  of 
Cochabamba  have  a flourishing  trade.  There  is  a growing  demand  for  North  American 
goods,  and  it  is  now  no  unusual  occurrence  to  see  an  advertisement  of  articiilos  Noiie- 
americanos  as  an  especial  attraction.  The  firms  of  De  Notta  and  of  Harris  and  Company, 
in  La  Paz,  deal  extensively  in  North  American  novelties.  But  it  is  possible  even  here 
to  make  a hopeless  search  without  finding  some  familiar  articles,  no  especial  effort 
having  been  made  by  North  Americans  to  introduce  their  merchandise.  They  are,  as  a 
rule,  less  informed  than  the  merchants  of  Europe  regarding  this  country,  and  are  far 
behind  the  Europeans  in  learning  the  commercial  needs  of  the  nation.  The  diplomatic  and 
consular  representatives  of  the  United  States  accredited  to  South  America  have  had  very 
arduous  duties  to  perform  in  their  efforts  to  educate  their  own  people  regarding  these 
republics  in  general.  The  American  minister,  now  in  La  Paz,  Hon.  William  B.  Sorsby,  has 
won  the  admiration  and  esteem  of  the  Bolivians  by  his  constant  and  unfailing  devotion 


3.8 


BOLIVIA 


to  the  task  of  making  better  known  to  the  political  and  commercial  world  of  the  United  States 
the  actual  conditions  that  govern  Bolivia.  The  fact  that  sentiment  is  growing  in  favor  of  a 
better  understanding  between  the  countries  of  North  and  South  America,  and  that  trade 
between  the  two  continents  has  increased  twenty-five  per  cent  in  the  past  ten  years,  is 
largely  due  to  the  persistent,  determined,  and  conscientious  labor  of  the  officials  representing 
their  governments  in  these  countries.  They  have  succeeded  in  overcoming,  to  some  extent, 
the  bad  effects  of  sensational  travellers’  tales  founded  on  events  of  fifty  years  ago,  and  they 
are  using  their  powerful  influence  to  modify  the  prevailing  ideas  of  the  press,  which  still 
seems  influenced  by  a tendency  to  draw  imaginary  pictures  of  thrilling  social  adventure  and 
political  pyrotechnics  that  are  entertaining,  perhaps,  but  not  quite  up  to  date.  However, 
journalistic  pride  will  not  permit  an  antiquated  idea  to  dominate  beyond  the  period  of  its 
usefulness.  Within  a short  time  the  world  will  see  the  newspapers  of  Europe  and  North 
America  vying  with  one  another  to  secure  the  account  of  the  latest  advance  made  in  the 
political  or  intellectual  progress  of  South  America,  instead  of  devoting  sensational  headlines  to 
some  stupid  riot  on  a feast  day,  an  event  of  no  more  importance  than  the  average  school- 
boy’s row.  Bolivia  deserves  that  friendly  judgment  should  be  passed  on  the  efforts  her 
people  are  making  toward  national  progress.  Since  the  election  of  the  present  government 
nearly  three  years  ago,  its  officers  have  worked  in  accord  and  with  energy  to  promote  the 
national  welfare.  Not  a single  change  has  been  made  in  its  Cabinet,  though  “ministerial 
crises  ” have  been  a conspicuous  feature  of  several  other  South  American  governments.  It  is 
apparent  to  all  who  seriously  study  the  tendency  of  affairs  in  this  country  that  the  prospect 
is  bright  for  political  and  commercial  progress,  and  that  Bolivia  is  destined  to  occupy,  one  of 
these  days,  an  important  place  among  the  great  trading  nations  of  the  world. 


THE  NATIONAL  MINT.  POTOSI.  BUILT  UNDER  THE  VICEROYALTY. 


r . 

I 


r-  ' 


«• ' 
I.-- 


WOMEN  EXPERTS  SORTING  ORES,  HUANCHACA  SILVER  MINES. 


CHAPTER  XX 


CELEBRATED  MINES  OF  BOLIVIA— THE  CERRO  DE  POTOSl— HUANCHACA  SILVER  MINES 

pEW  events  in  the  history  of  modern  times 
^ have  been  so  universally  recorded  as  the 
discovery  of  the  mines  of  Potosi.  In  the  middle 
of  the  sixteenth  century,  when  the  ships  of  Spain 
arrived  with  the  first  treasure  from  the  silver 
mountain,  all  Europe  became  interested,  and  ex- 
citement grew  as  the  abundance  of  the  marvellous 
Cerro  proved  apparently  unlimited  and  inexhaust- 
ible. It  became  the  theme  of  courtier  and  poet, 
and  eclipsed  every  other  event  for  a time.  The 
victories  of  the  Holy  League,  the  proclamation  of 
His  Catholic  Majesty’s  coronation,  and  even  more 
important  occurrences  of  the  latter  part  of  the 
sixteenth  century,  were  hardly  welcomed  with 
greater  eclat  than  the  announcement  of  a new 
cargo  of  treasure  received  from  the  American 
mines;  and  the  fame  of  the  wonderful  land  be- 
yond the  sea  continued  to  increase,  as  each  arrival 
of  silver-laden  ships  brought  fresh  stories  of  the 
marvellous  mountain  called  Potosi,  out  of  which  the  precious  white  metal  poured  in  never- 
ceasing  streams.  Fabulous  tales  and  fanciful  legends  were  related  everywhere  regarding 
this  famous  mine.  All  the  world  talked  of  its  riches,  poets  wrote  stanzas  inspired  by 
visions  of  its  opulence,  and  lovers  dreamed  of  bestowing  its  abundance  on  their  dear  ones. 
It  was  an  extravagant  serenade!'  who  offered  his  lady  love  the  wealth  of  Potosi  for  a kiss: 


ENTRANCE  TO  PULACAYO  MINE.  HUANCHACA. 


“Te  diera,  si  me  dieras 
De  tu  iinda  boca  un  si. 
Las  aromas  de  la  Arabia, 
El  Cerro  de  Potosi.’’ 


pi 


322 


BOLIVIA 


[I  would  give,  if  you  would  give  me 
From  your  pretty  lips  a “yes,” 

All  the  perfumes  of  Arabia, 

The  Cerro  de  Potosl.] 

At  the  time  when  Spain  found  her  new  treasure  in  America,  chivalry  had  not  yet  lost 
its  romantic  influence  and  charm,  and  many  a knight  made  his  way  across  the  sea  and  over 
the  snow-covered  passes  of  the  Andes  in  search  of  adventure  by  which  to  prove  his  devo- 
tion, or,  perhaps,  to  find  riches  that  would  mend  a broken  fortune  and  entitle  him  to  sue  for 
the  hand  of  some  noble  lady  of  his  choice.  For,  in  the  unwritten  law  of  chivalry,  poverty 
was  counted,  as  it  is  to-day  under  a more  modern  code,  if  not  a crime,  at  least  a bar  sinister 
on  the  escutcheon  of  sentiment.  In  the  written  romances  of  those  days,  the  popular  hero 
returned  unexpectedly  from  Potosi  with  untold  treasures,  which  he  laid  at  the  feet  of  the 
queen  of  his  heart  after  destroying  Ids  rival  and  achieving  renown  by  many  brilliant  deeds 
of  valor.  The  author  of  Don  Oitixotc  naturally  refers  to  Potosi  as  a synonym  for  fabulous 
wealth,  and  there  was  hardly  a writer  of  the  time  who  did  not  find  occasion  to  use  the 
name  of  the  silver  mountain  to  illustrate  the  idea  of  lavish  abundance.  The  news  that 
the  city  of  Potosi,  which  received  the  name  of  Villa  Imperial  by  order  of  King  Charles  V., 
spent  ten  million  dollars  in  the  festivities  of  the  coronation  of  his  successor,  Philip  1 1.,  created 
no  surprise,  since  millions  were  supposed  to  roll  like  pebbles  into  the  lap  of  that  famous 
city.  A chronicler  of  the  sixteenth  century  estimates  at  six  million  dollars  the  amount  of 
the  “royal  fifth”  paid  in  taxes  annually,  and,  knowing  the  facilities  that  existed  for  evading 
the  tax,  he  adds:  Y qiie  scria  lo  qiic  sc  dcjo  dc  qninfar! — “And  what  must  that  have  been  on 
which  the  ‘ fifth  ’ tax  was  not  paid ! ” Improbable  as  some  of  the  stories  related  of  the  Cerro 
appear,  there  is  more  truth  than  fiction  in  the  accounts  of  extravagance  and  luxury  that  have 
been  handed  down  to  us  in  the  Annals  of  the  Imperial  City.  It  is  recorded  that  the  amount 
of  silver  which  was  taken  out  of  Potosi  from  the  date  of  the  discovery  in  1^4^  until  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  was  three  billion  three  hundred  and  ninety-four 
million  dollars,  and  a liberal  estimate  gives  nearly  four  billion  dollars  as  the  total  output 
of  silver  from  the  Cerro  de  Potosi  up  to  the  present  day.  Curious  old  documents  relating 
to  the  history  of  this  great  silver  mountain  have  been  collected  and  published  by  Senor  Don 
Vicente  Ballivian  y Rojas  in  a volume  of  fascinating  interest.  In  one  paragraph  we  are  told 
that  “in  11366  a Spanish  noble,  who  was  entering  the  Cotamito  mine  with  his  Indian  laborers, 
stumbled  against  an  object  which  proved  to  be  a magnificent  crucifix  of  pure  silver,  the  arms 
and  legs  being  of  rosider,  evidently  formed  by  nature  under  divine  direction.”  It  became 
the  subject  of  much  speculation,  and  was  held  to  be  a sign  that  the  powerful  hand  of  God 
would  work  for  the  future  prosperity  of  this  particular  mine.  The  crucifix  was  sent  to 
Spain  and  placed  in  the  cluirch  of  San  Agustin,  of  Barcelona.  Another  chronicle  relates  that 
one  of  tlie  rich  owners  of  the  Cotamito  mine,  Don  Antonio  Lopez  de  Quiroga,  paid  in  fiftlis 
to  the  King  of  Spain  not  less  than  fifteen  million  dollars.  According  to  this  authority, 
the  great  millionaire  was  once  paying  a visit  to  the  viceroy  at  Lima,  when  an  officer  of  the 


CELEBRATED  MINES  OF  BO  LIDIA 


323 

household  remar-ked  that  the  expenses  of  the  viceregal  establishment  amounted  to  the 
exorbitant  sum  of  four  hundred  dollars  a week,  which  in  those  days  was  considered  a 
great  extravagance.  “Well,  1 spend  the  same  sum  for  candles  in  my  mines  of  Potosi,” 
responded  the  visitor! 

For  centuries  Bolivia  occupied  third  place  among  the  silver-producing  countries  of  the 
world,  the  annual  production  at  one  time  amounting  to  ten  million  ounces  of  silver.  Even 
with  such  an  enormous  yield,  the  mines  were  only  superficially  worked  by  very  primitive 
methods:  and  of  the  ten  thousand  abandoned  silver  mines  which  are  to  be  found  scattered 
throughout  the  country  to-day,  not  one  was  exhausted,  the  obstacle  to  continued  production 


PORCO,  SITE  OF  THE  OLDEST  SILVER  MINES  IN  BOLIVIA. 


being  in  every  case  a lack  of  means  to  protect  the  mine  from  inundation,  or  insufficient 
capital  to  buy  new  machinery,  etc.,  as  was  the  case  after  the  War  of  Independence. 

While  the  exploitation  of  the  mines  was  at  its  height  in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth 
centuries,  the  most  absurd  and  fantastic  extravagance  prevailed:  and  no  provision  was  made 
for  a possible  period  of  depression,  which  came  later  in  the  form  of  plagues,  inundations,  a 
lowering  of  the  price  of  silver,  increased  cost  of  transportation,  and  similar  contrarieties. 
Although  the  famous  Cerro  de  Potosi  no  longer  produces  the  enormous  quantities  of  metal 
which  history  records  of  former  days,  it  is  not  by  any  means  exhausted,  the  value  of  the 
silver  taken  from  its  mines  from  189^  to  1902  being  nearly  four  million  dollars  in  gold.  It  is 
claimed  that  about  seven  thousand  mines  have  been  opened  in  the  Cerro  since  the  discovery 
of  its  wealth,  and  the  records  show  that  up  to  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  five 
thousand  mines  were  registered  as  being  in  operation  at  some  time  on  the  famous  mountain. 
About  seven  hundred  are  worked  at  present  for  both  silver  and  tin,  and  fve  thousand 


BOLIVIA 


324 

laborers  are  employed.  The  Cerro  presents  a unique  spectacle  as  seen  from  a distance, 
towering  behind  the  city  in  the  shape  of  a carefully  chiselled  cone,  of  the  dark  red-brown 


SILVER  AND  TIN  MINES,  REAL  SOCAVON,  POTOSL 


color  that  suggests  metallic  composition,  and  marked  at  intervals  all  over  its  surface  by  gray 
and  yellow  patches  that  show  where  a boca-niiiki,  or  opening  to  a mine,  is  located.  In  the 
early  hours  of  the  morning  when  the  Indians  are  on  their  way  to  work,  the  Cerro  is  alive 
with  moving  colors,  the  bright  yellow,  red,  or  green  skirts  and  ponchos  giving  a kaleidoscopic 
effect  to  the  scene.  Both  men  and  women  work  at  the  mines,  the  women  being  engaged 
in  pounding  and  sorting  the  ore  which  is  deposited  in  sheds  for  the  purpose.  Although 
most  of  the  mines  are  located  at  an  altitude  of  seventeen  thousand  feet  or  more,  the  people 
seem  to  be  so  accustomed  to  the  rarefied  atmosphere  that  they  do  not  notice  it,  and  it  is  a 
remarkable  fact  that  at  the  altitude  of  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  feet  at  Lake  Titicaca  one 
suffers  far  more  difficulty  in  breathing  than  at  the  much  greater  height  of  Potosi.  There  is 
something  quite  picturesque  in  the  appearance  of  the  Potosi  miner,  whose  garb  is  a mixture 
of  European  and  Indian  dress,  and  even  the  little  tallow  dip  which  he  wears  in  his  cap 
attracts  attention,  not  only  by  its  shape,  which  is  like  a tiny  tin  jug  with  the  wick  lying 
over  the  spout,  but  because  it  is  invariably  ornamented  by  a small  cross  which  stands  up 
from  the  rim  as  a conspicuous  adornment. 


CELEBRATED  MINES  OF  BOLIVIA 


32? 

A traveller  riding  up  tlie  winding  heights  of  the  Cerro  de  Potosi  is  at  once  struck  by 
tlie  prevalence  of  great  masses  of  petrified  lava  that  are  seen  everywhere  around  the  base 
of  the  mountain,  and  at  each  turn  the  impression  grows  stronger  that  the  huge  pyramid, 
constituting  a solid  mass  of  metal,  is  an  upheaval  from  the  very  centre  of  volcanic  energy. 
Though  the  Spaniards  mined  only  for  silver,  the  Cerro  contains  also  quantities  of  copper, 
iron,  and  lead,  and  it  is  to-day  one  of  the  chief  centres  of  the  tin-mining  industry,  which, 
by  the  enormous  abundance  of  this  important  metal,  promises  to  make  Bolivia  as  famous 
commercially  in  the  twentieth  century  as  Alto  Peru  was  in  the  sixteenth.  Although  only 
a few  mines  have  been  opened,  Bolivia  already  ranks  high  among  the  tin  producing  coun- 
tries, and  new  discoveries  of  the  deposit  are  constantly  being  made.  Many  mine  owners  of 
Potosi  are  devoting  special  attention  to  the  tin  ores  and  are  treating  the  silver  production  as 
of  lesser  importance  for  the  time  being  until  conditions  become  more  favorable  to  resume 
this  mining  as  the  principal  industry.  There  is  an  abundance  of  tin  in  the  Cerro,  where 
it  is  found  in  layers  between  the  veins  of  silver,  as,  for  instance,  silver  is  found  near 
the  summit,  then,  lower  down,  there  are  tin  mines,  and  below  them  again  are  veins  of 
silver.  The  mines  of  the  Real  Socavon,  or  Royal  Silver  Mines,  are  located  near  the  base 
of  the  mountain  and  yield  both  silver  and  tin.  There  are  only  two  important  mines  near 


ESTABLISHMENT  OF  SOUX  AND  HERNANDEZ  FOR  VARIOUS  TREATMENTS  OF  TIN  ORES,  POTOSf. 


the  foot  of  the  Cerro,  the  Real  Socavon,  which  is  the  property  of  an  English  company, 
and  the  Socavon  Porvenir  which  belongs  to  Sehor  Don  Juan  M.  Saracho,  the  Bolivian 


326 


BOLIP'IA 


minister  of  public  instruction.  These  two  mines  perforate  the  mountain  from  east  to  west, 
having  the  great  advantage  that  they  cut  through  all  the  veins,  which  run  from  north  to 

south.  Though  the  work  has  been 
delayed  through  lack  of  sufficient 
capital  and  because  of  the  more  rapid 
returns  which  the  mining  of  tin  brings 
at  present,  they  offer  great  promise 
with  the  investment  of  larger  funds. 
The  Royal  Silver  Mining  Company 
owns,  in  addition  to  the  Real  Socavbn, 
the  old  mines  of  Cotamitos,  Forzados, 
and  Candelaria,  higher  up  the  Cerro. 
In  fact,  nearly  all  the  mines  now  in 
operation  in  Bolivia  are  the  same 
properties  as  those  worked  under  the 
Spanish  viceroyalty,  except  that  the 
present  system  is  more  modern  and 
the  mining  is  not  so  superficially  conducted.  The  Real  Socavbn  has  all  necessary  conven- 
iences for  the  work,  such  as  a railway  through  the  various  galleries,  and  air  tubes  for 
ventilation.  It  is  possible  to  ride  on  horseback  through  the  principal  corridors,  so  high  is 
the  tunnel.  The  rich  vein  in  this  mine  produces  daily  three  cajones,  equivalent  to  five 
thousand  pounds  each,  of  silver  metal  of  a standard  of  fifty  to  sixty  marcos,  a marco  being 
equal  to  seven  and  one-half  ounces  troy,  and  about  twenty  per  cent  tin,  and  the  output  will 
be  increased,  with  the  completion  of  certain  improvements,  to  eight  to  ten  cajones  of  a 
standard  of  fourteen  to  fifteen  marcos  and  eight  to  ten  per  cent  of  tin.  The  same  process  of 
treatment  for  extracting  the  silver  and  tin  is  in  vogue  in  all  the  more  important  ingeiiios,  or 
mining  establishments,  with  variations  according  to  the  predominating  quality  of  ores.  When 
the  ore  is  taken  from  the  mine  it  is  transferred  to  the  furnaces  or  kilns,  where  the  excess  of 
sulphur  is  extracted,  and  the  process  of  crushing  facilitated.  After  being  calcined  in  the  furnace, 
the  metal  passes  to  the  crusher,  from  which  it  is  taken  to  another  furnace  to  be  chloridized. 
For  very  high  grade  ores,  which  show  a large  percentage  of  precious  metal,  smelting  is  the 
preferred  process,  but  where  the  grade  is  lower  the  system  of  lixiviation  or  concentration  is 
used,  as  in  the  iiigciiios  of  Velarde  and  Huayllahuasi,  where  both  silver  and  tin  ores  are  treated. 
These  establishments,  which  are  owned  by  Messrs.  Soux  and  Hernandez,  are  worked  in 
connection  with  the  company’s  mines,  which  are  counted  among  the  richest  of  the  Cerro. 
In  the  ingeiiios  of  Bebin  Brothers,  known  as  Santa  Rosa  and  Huayra,  the  smelting  process 
is  used  in  the  former,  and  concentration  in  the  latter  establishment.  The  minerals  from  the 
mines  of  Senor  Mafias  de  Mendieta  are  treated  by  concentration,  as  are  also  those  of  the  Ingenio 
San  Marcos,  owned  by  Mr.  Robert  Scott.  In  the  establishment  Quintanilla,  the  property  of 
Senor  Juan  Rubarth,  both  smelting  and  concentration  are  used  in  the  treatment  of  the  ores. 


m 


ASSORTED  TIN  ORES  FOR  TREATMENT  AT  HUAYRA,  POTOSf. 


CELEBRATED  MINES  OF  BOUNIA 


327 

These  firms  are  all  engaged  chiefly  in  the  exploitation  of  tin  mines,  but  they  regard  the  silver 
production  as  an  assured  source  of  wealth,  only  held  in  reserve  for  the  time  being,  while 
tin  is  so  much  more  in  demand  and  brings  better  prices.  Sehor  Don  Juan  Ugarteche, 
managing  director  of  Bebin  Brothers,  mines,  estimates  the  entire  production  of  the  Cerro  de 
Potosi,  at  present,  as  four  million  bolivianos  annually,  and  he  places  the  gross  average  grade 
of  the  metals  as  twenty  per  cent  pure,  though  he  says  a great  deal  of  it  is  sixty  per  cent 
pure,  and  is  exported  to  Europe  without  previous  treatment  of  any  kind. 

It  is  interesting  to  visit  an  ingenio  and  to  follow  the  various  methods  by  which  the  ore 
is  treated  before  it  comes  out  of  the  last  ordeal  a shining  block  of  silver  or  tin,  ready  to  be 
loaded  on  the  backs  of  the  mules,  llamas,  and  donkeys,  to  be  carried  to  the  railway  station 
or  to  the  seaport  of  Antofagasta  for  shipment.  The  large  sacks  which  contain  ore  to  be 
shipped  in  crude  condition,  just  as  the  mineral  is  taken  from  the  mines,  are  sometimes 
loaded  on  muleback,  but  the  square  blocks,  weighing  about  twenty-five  pounds  each,  are 
generally  carried  by  llamas.  The  courtyard  of  an  ingenio  presents  a busy  sight  on  shipping 
day.  It  is  particularly  entertaining  to  see  the  arrieros  being  photographed  at  the  Huayra  and 
Santa  Rosa  establishments  before  they  set  out  with  their  cargoes.  One  after  another,  they 
face  the  camera,  with  their  numbers  held  in  plain  view  so  that  there  may  be  no  mistake.  The 
purpose  of  this  is  to  enable  the  company  to  identify  an  anicro  in  case  of  his  absconding  or 
deserting  his  cargo.  There  is  no  danger  of  his  stealing  the  silver  or  tin  blocks,  but  there  is 
always  the  possibility  that  he  may  grow  tired  of  his  task  before  he  gets  to  his  destination,  and 
leave  cargo,  mules,  and  llamas  in  the  road  while  he  seeks  more  congenial  employment.  By 
means  of  the  photograph,  such  a delinquent  may  be  easily  traced ; at  any  rate,  it  has  proved  to 
the  employers  an  excellent  system  for  keeping  informed  regarding  the  whereabouts  and  con- 
duct of  these  Indians.  The  delinquents 
furnish  a sort  of  “rogues’  gallery”  as 
a safeguard  to  mining  establishments. 

But  usually  the  arrieros  are  faithful  and 
dependable,  arriving  sooner  or  later  at 
their  destination,  whether  it  is  ten 
leagues  or  five  hundred,  no  matter 
what  may  be  the  condition  of  the 
weather  or  the  roads.  They  do  not 
make  record-breaking  journeys,  as  the 
llama  and  the  Indian  have  a common 
aversion  to  speed,  the  llama’s  nine  or 
ten  miles  a day  being  quite  in  accord 
with  his  driver’s  ideas  of  pedestrian- 
ism.  When  noon  comes  the  load  is 
taken  from  the  animal’s  back,  and  he  strolls  away  to  find  forage  on  the  mountain  sides, 
while  his  master  stretches  himself  on  the  ground  for  a nibble  at  his  handful  of  parched 


BARS  OF  TIN  PREPARED  FOR  SHIPMENT,  MINES  OF  BEBIN 
BROTHERS.  POTOSf. 


J28 


BOLIVIA 


corn,  after  which  he  takes  a siesta.  It  may  be  one  hour  or  three  before  the  caravan  moves 
on,  but  nobody  is  disturbed  about  so  trifling  a difference  in  the  scheduie,  and  a few  days 


CARTS  OF  SILVER  ORE  EN  ROUTE  FROM  HUANCHACA  MINES. 


more  or  iess  on  tiie  road  are  not  to  be  considered.  Naturaiiy,  the  mining  companies  are 
giad  to  know  that  a system  of  raiiways  wiii  soon  give  them  an  improved  freight  service, 
but  there  wiii  no  doubt  aiways  be  enough  business  to  keep  the  iiama  and  his  driver  as 
mucii  occupied  as  these  ieisure-ioving  companions  care  to  be. 

The  history  of  the  discovery  of  the  Potosi  mines  is  associated  with  the  records  of  the 
stiii  oider  mines  of  Porco,  wiiicii,  tradition  says,  were  discovered  by  the  Inca  Maita-Ccapac, 
when  tiiat  great  Peruvian  emperor  conquered  tiie  Charcas  tribes,  centuries  before  the 
Spaniards  came  to  the  New  World.  The  annals  of  the  Imperial  City  record  tiiat  in  1462 
Huayna-Ccapac,  wiiiie  on  his  way  to  tiie  mines  of  Porco,  spent  one  night  within  view  of 
the  now  famous  Cerro  de  Potosi,  and  was  so  impressed  by  the  belief  th.at  the  great 
mountain  contained  riches  in  silver  that  he  ordered  his  servants  to  go  there  and  dig  for 
the  precious  metal.  In  obedience  to  the  royal  command,  they  approached  the  Cerro  and 
were  about  to  begin  their  task,  when  a terrific  peal  of  thunder  held  them  spellbound, 
and  a voice  from  the  silence  that  followed  called  to  them:  “Touch  not  the  silver  of  this 
Cerro,  because  it  is  for  other  owners!”  Terror-stricken,  the  servants  of  the  Inca  fled, 
and,  seeking  their  royal  master,  told  him  of  the  extraordinary  occurrence,  repeating  the 
word  pofojsi!  which  is  Quichua,  meaning  “ it  made  a loud  noise  1 ” This  story  is  another 


CELEBRATED  MINES  OF  BOLIN  I A 


329 

instance  of  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega’s  picturesque  philology,  and  its  naive  transparency  is  like 
many  other  interpretations  from  his  fanciful  pen. 

The  thunder  that  rolls  over  the  Cerro  de  Potosi  is  sufficient  to  suggest  the  still,  small 
voice  forbidding  approach  even  to-day,  and  there  are  few  places  on  the  globe  where  an 
electrical  storm  is  more  magnificent  and  startling.  A less  imaginative  authority  derives 
Potosi  from  a Quichua  word,  potojclii,  meaning  “fountain  of  silver.”  It  is  further  related 
that  Atahuallpa,  the  last  of  the  ruling  Incas,  who  came  to  Porco  to  collect  an  army  for  the 
conquest  of  Chile,  also  passed  the  Cerro  de  Potosi,  but  did  not  approach  it  because  of  the 
command  the  mysterious  voice  had  given  to  his  royal  ancestor.  Yet  it  was  an  Indian,  after 
all,  who  first  discovered  the  precious  silver  of  Potosi.  A shepherd  named  Guallca,  after 
searching  in  vain  for  hours  to  find  one  of  his  flock,  caught  the  truant  animal  on  the  Cerro 
just  as  night  came  on.  He  tethered  the  sheep  and  prepared  to  spend  the  night  on  the 
mountain,  lighting  a fire  to  protect  him  from  the  bitter  cold.  The  next  morning  he  was 
surprised  to  see  that  a stream  of  silver  had  flowed  from  the  place  where  the  fire  was  built, 
and  fofmed  a white  stripe  on  the  dark  red  of  the  Cerro.  The  Indian  reported  the  matter  to 
the  Spanish  captain,  Don  Juan  de  Villarroel,  who,  in  company  with  Don  Diego  Centeno  and 


LOADING  TIN  ON  CARTS,  MULES,  AND  LLAMAS,  SOUX  AND  HERNANDEZ  SMELTING  FOUNDRY,  POTOSL 


Don  Alonso  Santandia,  founded  the  first  mine  in  Potosi  in  Kqy  the  famous  “ Descubridora,” 
out  of  which  fifty  million  dollars’  worth  of  silver  was  taken  in  an  incredibly  short  time,  and 
which  continued  for  two  centuries  to  be  one  of  the  richest  mines  in  the  world. 


BOLIVIA 


330 


If  the  Cerro  de  Potosi  is  noted  as  the  site  of  the  most  famous  silver  mines  of  Alto  Peru, 
Huanchaca  can  claim  tlie  honor  of  being  the  centre  of  the  richest  silver  mines  of  Bolivia;  for 


VIEW  OF  HUANCHACA.  CENTRE  OF  RICH  SILVER  MINES. 


what  the  wealth  of  Potosi  was  to  the  viceroyalty,  the  enormous  treasure  of  Huanchaca  has 
been  to  the  republic, — one  of  the  most  important  sources  of  its  revenue.  And  the  Huan- 
chaca mining  company  has  been  a potent  agency  in  developing  the  industrial  and  commercial 
interests  of  the  country,  by  taking  the  initiative  in  the  construction  of  its  railways,  telegraph 
lines,  and  other  public  improvements. 

The  usual  element  of  romance,  which  is  associated  with  the  discovery  of  mines  every- 
where, is  not  wanting  in  the  history  of  Huanchaca,  and  the  reward  of  long  and  patient 
search  is  as  beautifully  illustrated  in  the  case  of  its  discoverer  as  in  the  experience  of  othei 
famous  treasure  seekers,  to  whom  Fortune  has  come  with  her  hands  full  of  riches  just  as 
Fate  was  about  to  throw  over  them  the  pall  of  despair.  Don  Mariano  Ramirez  had  been 
looking  for  gold  and  silver  for  twenty  years  before  chance  led  him  to  the  treasure  which  has 
made  his  name  famous,  and  his  discovery  great,  as  one  of  the  most  important  industrial 
events  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Everyone  who  lived  fifty  years  ago  in  the  district  of  the 
now  famous  Huanchaca  knew  Don  Mariano.  He  worked  for  years  in  the  mines  of  Ubina, 
twenty  leagues  from  Pulacayo,  with  little  success,  but  with  constant  hope  that  some  day 
would  see  the  realization  of  his  dream  of  discovering  a rich  vein.  He  won  the  devotion  of 
the  Indians  of  that  region  by  his  kindness  to  them,  and  there  was  not  a native  for  miles 
around  who  would  not  run  to  do  him  a service.  While  his  white  companions  made  him  the 


CEI.EB RATED  MINES  OE  BOIJIAA 


331 


butt  of  their  jokes  and  ridicule,  the  Indians  held  him  in  the  greatest  respect  and  affection. 
Finally,  one  day,  an  old  Indian  woman,  whom  he  had  cured  of  a wound,  sought  him  in  his 
little  hut  at  Ubina  and  told  him  that 
if  he  would  follow  her  she  would 
take  him  to  a place  where  plenty  of 
precious  metal  could  be  found,  with- 
out the  hard  work  that  was  killing 
her  patron  at  Ubina.  Don  Mariano 
permitted  himself  to  be  conducted  by 
her  across  the  country,  though  secretly 
blaming  himself  for  such  absurd  cre- 
dulity, and  frequently  stopping  to  ask 
his  guide  where  she  was  leading  him 
and  what  reason  she  had  for  believing 
there  was  treasure  there.  At  last,  as 
they  reached  the  heights  of  Pulacayo, she  turned  to  him,  and,  pointing  ahead,  said:  “Now, 
patron,  you  have  only  to  go  over  there  and  begin  to  dig;  you  will  find  silver  enough  to 
build  a city.”  This  occurred  in  1837,  and  from  that  day  Ramirez  began  to  realize  his 
fondest  hopes,  for  all  that  the  Indian  had  told  him  proved  true.  He  died,  however,  without 
reaping  the  full  reward  which  this  great  silver  mine  promised,  and  it  was  not  until  many 
years  later,  when  the  present  Compahia  Huanchaca  de  Bolivia  was  formed  in  1877,  that  the 
mines  began  to  yield  the  enormous  riches  which  have  made  Pulacayo  famous  as  the  second 
silver-producing  district  in  the  world.  Broken  Hill,  Australia,  being  entitled  to  preeminence. 

Within  the  past  quarter  of  a century  these  mines  have  given  to  the  world  nearly  five 
thousand  tons  of  silver,  worth  twenty-five  million  pounds  sterling.  The  mountain  from 

which  this  enormous  wealth  has  been 


AQUEDUCT  OF  YURA.  CARRYING  WATER  TO  THE  HUANCHACA  MINES. 


e.xtracted  is  one  of  the  scattered  ccrros 
apparently  belonging  to  the  Cordillera 
de  los  Frailes,  near  the  southwestern 
border  of  the  republic.  The  mining 
towns  of  Pulacayo  and  Huanchaca  are 
situated  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the 
Cerro,  at  an  altitude  of  fifteen  thou- 
sand feet  above  sea  level,  and  about 
nine  miles  in  a direct  line  from  Uyuni, 
where  the  Huanchaca  railway  forms 
a junction  with  the  Antofagasta  and 
Oruro  line.  A ride  on  the  Huanchaca 
railroad  is  an  experience  to  be  remembered,  as  the  train  follows  a succession  of  rapid  curves, 
travelling  fifteen  miles  on  its  circuitous  route.  The  ascent  is  sharp  in  places,  as  Pulacayo 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  PULACAYO  MINES.  HUANCHACA. 


BOLIVIA 


332 

lies  fifteen  hundred  feet  higher  than  Uyuni.  The  road  leads  up  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
through  several  cuts  between  great  rocks  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  and  at  an  elevated  point 
it  passes  through  one  of  the  longest  tunnels  in  the  world,  eleven  thousand  feet  in  extent, 
which  required  five  years  for  building  and  cost  over  half  a million  bolivianos.  The  scenery 
is  magnificent  all  along  the  route,  a distant  view  southward  showing  the  white  summit  of 
Chorolque  against  a blue  sky,  while  a nearer  prospect  gives  glimpses  of  the  snow  range 
of  the  Frailes  and  the  brown  slopes  of  lesser  peaks.  As  soon  as  the  present  company  was 
organized,  the  work  of  building  a cart  road  from  Huanchaca,  where  the  ingenios  for  the 
treatment  of  ores  from  the  mine  of  Pulacayo  were  then  located,  to  Cobija  on  the  Pacific 
coast,  at  that  time  a Bolivian  port,  was  undertaken  and  carried  to  successful  conclusion  in  a 
remarkably  short  time.  The  product  of  the  mines  was  shipped  to  Europe  from  the  port  of 
Cobija  until  the  War  of  the  Pacific  closed  this  outlet,  and  it  became  necessary  to  seek  an 
Argentine  port.  With  this  object  in  view,  the  company  constructed  a telegraph  line,  the  first 
in  Bolivia,  to  connect  Huanchaca  with  the  official  headquarters  which  were  then  in  Sucre, 
extending  it  to  Potosi  and  Tupiza,  to  facilitate  communication  with  that  section  of  the  country 
and  through  Tupiza  with  Argentina.  The  company  still  owns  this  line,  as  well  as  an  addi- 
tional service  to  Ollague  on  the  border  of  Chile,  an  extension,  in  all,  of  about  five  hundred 
miles.  As  soon  as  Bolivian  traffic  was  reestablished  through  Pacific  ports,  the  Huanchaca 
company,  realizing  the  necessity  for  railway  transportation  to  the  coast,  began  the  construc- 
tion of  the  Antofagasta  and  Oruro  Railway,  which,  as  previously  stated,  was  sold  later  to  an 
English  company,  with  the  exception  of  the  branch  from  Uyuni  to  Huanchaca. 

About  three  years  ago  a decline  in  the  price  of  silver  obliged  the  Compafiia  Huanchaca 
to  seek  means  of  reducing  the  expense  of  exploiting  and  treating  the  minerals  of  Pulacayo, 
especially  in  the  matter  of  fuel,  as  coal  cost  five  pounds  sterling  per  ton,  and  necessitated 
enormous  expenditure  for  this  item  alone.  At  the  same  time  that  the  decline  of  silver  came 
to  embarrass  the  operations  of  the  enterprise,  another  calamity  befell  the  company  in  the 
inundation  of  the  principal  galleries  of  the  mine,  and  at  one  time  the  outlook  was  almost 
hopeless,  the  water  invading  depths  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  in  some  places. 
Apparently  the  only  way  to  save  the  situation  was  by  adopting  electricity  as  a motor  power; 
and  this  was  done,  the  force  being  generated  by  means  of  water  obtained  from  the  Yura 
River,  twenty  leagues  distant,  and  conducted  through  an  aqueduct  having  a fall  of  thirty-five 
feet.  Electricity  equivalent  to  three  thousand  horse  power  was  thus  transmitted  on  three 
wires  of  one  thousand  horse  power  each,  representing  twenty-five  thousand  volts,  and  the 
problem  of  draining  the  mine  and  establishing  it  once  more  on  a paying  basis  was  finally 
solved.  This  electric  installation  ranks  fifth  in  importance  in  the  world,  and  is  a credit  to 
the  enterprise  of  the  company,  which  is  shown  also  in  many  other  modern  improvements.  A 
huge  Corliss  engine  of  one  tliousand  horse  power  has  recently  been  installed  in  the  mine,  with 
capacity  to  generate  a sufficient  current  for  the  electric  engines  of  the  establishment:  and  when 
the  Yura  plant  is  not  working,  this  machinery  supplies  all  the  force  required.  Another  Corliss 
engine,  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  horse  power,  is  used  for  compressing  air  with  which  to 


CELEBRATED  MINES  OE  BOLITIA 


333 


ventilate  the  mines,  and  for  hoisting  purposes.  Decauville  electrical  engines  are  used  in  some 
departments,  and  the  machinery  for  illuminating  the  offices  and  mines  by  electricity  is  of  the 
latest  model  and  perfection.  The  machine  shops  and  foundry  are  the  largest  in  Bolivia. 

The  automobile  has  invaded  the  Huanchaca  mines;  and  although  not  of  a boulevard 
model,  it  is  quite  as  rapid  a motor  machine  as  the  more  ornamental  specimens.  Two  North 
American  ladies  who  visited  the  mines  recently  were  taken  into  the  interior  in  an  auto,  over 
more  than  two  miles  of  tracks,  the  route  leading  through  passages  brilliantly  lighted  by 
electricity  and  built  of  solid  stone  masonry,  constituting  a succession  of  well-arched  and 
well-ventilated  tunnels.  During  this  subterranean  trip  the  party  passed  a little  chapel  in 


LAKE  AND  DAM  IN  THE  CORDILLERA,  SUPPLYING  WATER  TO  HUANCHACA  MINES. 


one  of  the  galleries,  in  which  is  a silver  image  of  Christ.  It  was  touching  to  see  the  stolid 
miners  remove  their  caps  as  they  passed,  none  of  them  failing  to  show  this  mark  of  venera- 
tion for  the  sacred  image.  There  are  twelve  miles  of  galleries  in  the  mine,  and  nearly  ten 
miles  of  rails.  Seven  shafts  are  used,  of  which  some  are  a quarter  of  a mile  in  depth. 

About  three  thousand  workmen  are  employed  by  the  Compahia  Huanchaca  de  Bolivia, 
and  at  least  a thousand  women  are  engaged  in  sorting  the  ores  and  arranging  them  according 
to  quality  and  properties.  It  is  marvellous  how  expert  these  women  become  in  their  tasks, 
and  with  what  apparent  indifference  they  toss  the  pieces  of  metal  on  one  pile  or  another, 
chattering  and  gossiping  with  one  another,  and  seeming  not  to  take  the  slightest  notice  of 


BOLIVIA 


m 

the  kind  of  ore  they  are  handling.  Yet  they  never  make  a mistake,  and  the  administrator 
of  the  mine  says  they  are  quicker  than  an  experienced  chemist  in  detecting  different  classes 
of  minerals.  They  seem  to  enjoy  their  work,  to  which  they  have  become  so  accustomed 
that  they  will  sit  for  hours  in  the  same  position,  on  the  ground,  with  their  feet  curled  under 
them,  scarcely  moving  except  to  reach  for  a piece  of  ore  that  has  rolled  away  from  the  pile 
in  front  of  them. 

Every  system  known  in  the  modern  treatment  of  minerals  is  used  in  the  various  ingenios 
of  Huanchaca;  and  the  electro-magnetic  method  of  separation,  which  has  recently  been 
adopted,  is  probably  the  first  of  its  class  in  the  world  installed  on  such  a large  scale  as  it  is 
here  practised.  Formerly,  the  establishments  of  Huanchaca,  Pulacayo,  and  Ubina  smelted 
all  the  metal  from  the  Pulacayo  mines,  but  a few  years  ago  a large  ingenio  for  the  smelting 
and  amalgamation  of  the  Pulacayo  ores  was  opened  at  Playa  Blanca,  near  Antofagasta,  where 
machinery  was  set  up  on  a magnificent  scale,  costing  nearly  half  a million  pounds  sterling. 
The  entire  plant  of  the  company  represents  an  outlay  of  four  million  pounds  sterling.  The 
president,  Sehor  Seneschal  de  la  Grange,  who  lives  in  Paris,  paid  a visit  to  the  mines  last 
year,  investigated  the  various  institutions  of  the  city  of  Pulacayo,  as  well  as  the  mining 
establishments,  and  made  a note  of  necessary  improvements  to  be  effected  in  the  educational 
and  charitable  advantages  offered  the  inhabitants. 

Ten  thousand  people  live  in  Pulacayo,  and  are  supported  by  the  mine  and  the  different 
industries  connected  with  its  exploitation.  Everything  in  the  city  belongs  to  the  Huanchaca 
company,  and  no  one  can  live  in  the  community  without  permission  from  this  authority. 
All  the  officials  of  the  municipality  are  appointed  by  the  company,  and  every  institution  is 
under  its  direct  supervision  and  government.  There  are  several  churches,  schools,  and  hos- 
pitals, and  the  town  has  a good  theatre.  It  is  a typical  mining  town  among  the  mountains, 
built  like  an  amphitheatre  on  the  slope  of  the  Cerro,  and  the  steep,  narrow  streets  present  a 
puzzling  problem  to  the  foreigner  who  makes  a first  attempt  to  scale  their  uncertain  heights. 


ARF^IEROS  PHOTOGRAPHED  FOR  IDENTIFICATION,  POTOSf. 


PRINCIPAL  PLAZA  OF  POTOSI  DURING  A FEAST  DAY  PROCESSION. 


CHAPTER  XXI 


POTOSf,  THE  FAMOUS  VILLA  IMPERIAL  OF  COLONIAL  SPAIN— ONE  OF  BOLIVIA’S 

MOST  PICTURESQUE  CITIES 


exchange  the  gossip  of  the  day  across  tlie  pebble-paved  caUc.  The  scarlet,  yellow,  and 
green  ponchos,  blankets  of  a gorgeous  mixture  in  hue,  and  bright  articles  of  every  descrip- 
tion, which  hang  outside  the  shops,  give  a welcome  dash  of  color  and  warmth  to  the 
otherwise  rather  triste,  though  wonderfully  picturesque,  little  city  at  the  base  of  the  great 
silver  mountain.  There  is  an  attractiveness  about  it  all  which  few  cities  of  the  New  World 
possess.  A heritage  of  fanciful  legends  and  traditions,  supported  by  artistic  relics  of  archi- 
tectural grandeur  and  historic  records  of  daring  patriotism,  makes  the  quaint  old  town  rich 
in  treasure  more  valuable  than  the  precious  metal  of  its  famous  Cerro.  There  is  hardly 
a house  without  its  tradition,  or  some  story  of  a great  event  which  occurred  on  the  spot 
where  it  is  built. 


MONUMENT  OF  LIBERTY,  POTOSI. 


BRILLIANT  past  still  casts  its  glamour  over  the 
historic  city  of  Potosi.  Romance  lingers  about 
its  wonderful  old  palaces,  fascinating  in  their  anti- 
quated style,  with  their  exquisitely  carved  doorways 
and  curiously  wrought  miradores.  Unwritten  history 
is  suggested  in  every  varying  design,  and  in  a thou- 
sand indefinable  touches  of  the  elaborate  art  that 
constructed  them  in  centuries  gone  by.  Imagination 
revelling  in  the  presence  of  these  charming  old  edifices, 
pictures  with  vivid  pleasure  the  scenes  and  events  of 
their  past,  long  since  forgotten  by  the  people,  except 
as  preserved  in  many  enchanting  traditions.  As  the 
traveller  rides  up  the  steep,  narrow  streets,  they  appear 
silent  and  deserted,  except  in  the  main  thoroughfare, 
where  busy  vendors  exhibit  their  wares  in  gayly 
decorated  booths  in  front  of  their  little  shops,  and 


^37 


338 


BOLIVIA 


In  the  quaint  fashion  of  the  chronicles  of  the  period,  it  is  recorded  in  September,  1^4^, 
that  Captain  Villarroel,  Don  Diego  Centeno,  and  other  Spanish  nobles  founded  the  city  of 
Potosi,  and  that  “the  building  continued  so  rapidly  the  two  following  years  that  houses  were 
put  up  without  digging  proper  foundations  or  levelling  the  streets,”  which  is  not  surprising 
when  one  reads  that  the  population  increased  by  twelve  thousand  inhabitants  during  that 
short  time.  One  of  the  first  large  edifces  completed  was  the  cathedral  in  1^47,  the  churches 
of  San  Francisco,  San  Lorenzo,  and  Santa  Barbara  being  constructed  the  following  year.  The 
interesting  chronicle  gives  a chapter  to  the  story  of  the  miraculous  arrival  at  the  church  of 
San  Francisco,  the  same  year,  of  the  image  of  the  Holy  Christ  of  the  True  Cross.  To  use 
the  enthusiastic  description  of  the  chronicler:  “That  wonder  of  sculpture,  that  prodigy  of 
marvels,  that  amazing  power  of  miracles,  that  true  father  of  mercies,  from  which  Potosi 


THE  IMPERIAL  CITY  OF  POTOSI. 


experiences  singular  and  daily  favors,  I say,  and  I do  declare  it  once  for  all,  the  Holy  Christ 
of  the  True  Cross,  appeared  in  the  door  of  San  Francisco,  without  anyone  knowing  whence 
it  came,  who  sent  it,  or  who  brought  it  hither:  it  was  found  in  a box  in  the  form  of  a cross, 
and,  as  I say,  without  its  being  known  whence  it  came  or  who  was  the  artificer,  though  it 
appears  not  to  have  been  made  by  human  hands,  for  it  is  all  a miracle.  In  this  way  was 
it  found,  though  it  is  said  by  some  that  it  was  first  discovered  in  one  of  the  ports  of  the 
Indies,  with  an  address  on  tlie  box  which  read  ‘for  San  Francisco  de  Potosi.’”  As  stated 
elsewhere,  the  literary  chronicles  of  those  days  were  chiefly  the  work  of  the  clergy,  which 
no  doubt  accounts  for  the  importance  given  to  this  event,  only  one  of  many  of  like  character. 

Within  five  or  six  years  after  the  city  of  Potosi  was  founded,  the  fame  of  the  Cerro 
began  to  bring  fortune  seekers  and  all  classes  of  adventurers  from  Europe,  while  the 


POTOSI,  THE  FHMOUS  VILLA  IMPERIAL 


339 


CITY  HALL,  POTOSI. 


importance  of  his  Catholic  majesty’s  possessions  here  required  that  the  highest  representa- 
tives of  the  government  should  be  sent  to  supervise  the  collection  of  the  royal  funds.  Spanish 
nobles  were  charged  with 
the  management  of  the 
royal  treasury  and  the  mint 
in  the  new  country,  and 
their  residence  in  Potosi 
made  that  city  the  centre 
of  great  display  and  lux- 
ury. Magnificent  palaces 
were  built,  special  archi- 
tects being  brought  from 
Spain  to  superintend  the 
construction,  and,  in  recog- 
nition of  the  importance  of 
the  new  city,  the  Emperor 
Charles  V.  bestowed  upon 
it  the  title  of  Villa  Imperial 
de  Potosi.  In  Philip  II.  presented  the  city  with  a coat  of  arms,  representing  the  royal 
arms  of  Spain  on  a silver  field,  an  imperial  eagle;  in  the  middle  of  this  were  two  castles 

and  two  lions  counterpoised; 
and  marking  the  centre  of  the 
royal  arms  was  the  great  Cerro 
de  Potosi;  the  iic  plus  ultra 
column  appears  on  each  side; 
the  imperial  crown  is  the  crest, 
and  tlie  columns  are  orna- 
mented by  the  Collar  of  the 
Golden  Fleece.  The  wealth 
of  the  city  grew  so  rapidly 
that  the  extravagance  of  its 
citizens  became  renowned 
throughout  the  world.  The 
most  ordinary  utensils  for 
household  use  were  made  of 
silver  wrought  in  exquisite 
designs.  A lady’s  gown  cost 
five  thousand  dollars,  which, 

three  centuries  ago,  was  not  the  dressmaker’s  bagatelle  that  it  is  to-day,  but  represented 
a very  fine  fortune;  Queen  Isabella  was  thought  recklessly  munificent  when  she  spent 


PICHINCHA  PLAZA,  POTOSI. 


BOLIVIA 


twenty  thousand  dollars  on  the  fleet  that  brought  Columbus  to  America.  There  were  some 
Lucullan  feasts  in  the  city  of  the  Cerro  in  those  days,  if  the  chronicles  are  to  be  relied  upon 
which  tell  us  that  gay  companies  of  revellers  drank  whole  casks  of  wine  at  a supper  and 
paid  for  their  patrician  taste  at  the  rate  of  thirty  dollars  a bottle.  When  in  the  news 
arrived  that  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  was  dead,  the  city  became  as  extravagant  in  its  grief  as 
it  had  been  in  revelry,  and  the  royal  obsequies  which  were  celebrated  in  the  church  of  San 
Francisco  cost  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  which  the  record  says  “is  not 
surprising,  as  wax  candles  cost  twelve  dollars  a pound.”  There  appeared  to  be  something 
intoxicating  in  the  atmosphere  of  so  much  wealth,  and  the  people  lived  in  an  excitement 
of  spendthrift  follies  that  verged  on  mania. 

Potosi  had  its  astrologers,  the  same  as  the  European  courts  in  those  days,  and  when 
the  mines  failed  to  yield  their  usual  amount,  or  plagues  afflicted  the  people,  as  was  the  case 

in  the  sixteenth  century,  these  wise  men 
were  called  upon  to  “read  the  stars.”  The 
Aikiles  lie  la  Villa  Imperial  de  Potos'i  gives 
an  entertaining  paragraph  from  one  of  the 
chief  astrologers;  “In  the  influence 
of  the  planets  Jupiter  and  Mercury  domi- 
nate Potosi,  the  latter  inclining  the  people 
to  prudence  and  intelligence  in  their  man- 
ners and  business  affairs,  while  Jupiter 
makes  them  magnanimous  and  liberal  in 
spirit.  The  signs  Venus  and  Libra  incline 
those  born  in  Potosi  to  be  affectionate 
and  fond  of  music  and  feasting,  as  well 
as  devoted  to  the  acquisition  of  wealth 
and  the  affairs  of  gallantry.”  Evidently 
the  astrologer  knew  his  Potosi ! Less 
lenient  are  the  judgments  passed  upon  the 
pleasure-loving  Spanish  nobles  of  Potosi 
by  some  authorities,  who  condemn  their 
cruelty  to  the  unfortunate  Indians,  and 
their  reckless  contempt  for  all  social  laws. 
The  mediaeval  practices  of  jealous  knights, 
which  were  beginning  to  fall  into  disrepute 
at  that  time  in  Europe,  reigned  in  all  their 
intensity  in  the  city  of  the  Cerro,  and  the 
priest  was  constantly  being  dragged  from 
liis  convent,  blindfolded  and  tied,  and  taken  to  the  Palacio  Encantado  of  the  Knights  of 
Santiago,  or  to  some  other  remote  and  lonely  palace  to  shrive  the  unhappy  victim  of  a tragic 


ONE  OF  THE  PI^INCH'AL  STREETS  OF  POTOSI. 


POTOSI,  THE  FAMOUS  VILLA  IMPERIAL 


crime.  But  those  were  the  darker  features  of  life  in  the  imperial  city,  and  they  gradually 
faded  out  as  the  laws  became  better  established.  The  great  Viceroy  Toledo,  who  visited 
Potosi  in  1^7^  did  much  to  advance  the 
well-being  of  the  city  and  to  correct  the 
abuses  of  his  too  powerful  countrymen. 

He  ordered  the  streets  widened  and  the 
city  divided  into  separate  quarters  for 
the  Spaniards  and  the  Indians.  As  may 
be  imagined,  the  viceroy’s  visit  was  the 
occasion  of  splendid  fiestas,  pageants  and 
banquets  succeeding  one  another  for  fif- 
teen days  without  intermission.  It  was 
soon  after  his  departure  that  the  feud  be- 
tween Vascongado  and  Vicuna  began  to 
threaten  the  peace  of  the  community,  and 
it  developed  rapidly  into  a terrible  war. 

The  Criollos  of  Potosi  joined  the  Vicunas, 
and  the  last  few  years  of  the  century  saw 
many  sanguinary  battles  between  the  two 
forces.  Their  hatred  of  each  other  became 
a motive  of  rivalry  even  in  the  fiestas.  A 
description  of  one  of  these  entertainments, 
as  given  in  the  chronicles  of  the  period, 
reads  like  a tale  of  the  Middle  Ages:  “The 
sports  began  with  six  days  of  comedies, 
eight  of  bull  fights,  three  of  soirees,  two  of  tournaments  and  other  festas;  six  nights  were 
given  up  to  the  masquers,  the  Potosinos  appearing  in  magnificent  style,  their  persons  and 
horses  covered  with  jewels  and  precious  stones.  The  master  of  ceremonies  for  the  award 
of  premiums  was  Don  Francisco  Nicolas  de  Arsans,  a Knight  of  Calatrava,  and  grandson  of  the 
Duke  of  Alba,  a young  man  whose  income  represented  more  than  five  million  dollars.  On 
the  day  of  the  contest  of  skill,  Don  Francisco,  accompanied  by  forty  young  nobles,  rode 
into  the  plaza,  where  the  spectators  were  assembled,  mounted  on  a magnificently  capari- 
soned horse,  wearing  over  his  armor  a cape  embroidered  in  blue  damask  and  sprinkled  with 
diamonds,  rubies,  and  emeralds:  his  plumed  helmet  glittered  with  jewels.  In  his  right  hand 
he  carried  a lance,  and  in  the  left  a shield  on  which  was  painted  his  coat  of  arms,  also  richly 
jewelled,  with  the  device  Desde  el  Atba  vine  aqiii.  His  saddle  was  of  finely  wrought  gold, 
as  were  his  stirrups,  and  the  bridle  was  made  of  ropes  of  pearls.  His  followers,  all  young 
scions  of  the  highest  nobility  of  Spain,  among  whom  were  Don  Severino  Columbus,  great- 
grandson  of  the  discoverer  of  America,  and  Don  Nicolas  Saulo  Ponce  de  Leon,  of  the  ducal 
house  of  Arcos,  were  richly  dressed  and  rode  splendid  chargers,  which  were  caparisoned  in 


STREET  SCENE  SHOWING  CERRO  DE  POTOSI  IN 
THE  DISTANCE. 


342 


BOLIVIA 


the  same  costly  style  as  that  of  their  leader.”  The  grandest  spectacle  of  the  fiestas  was  the 
parade  on  the  final  day.  All  around  the  main  plaza,  now  called  Pichincha  Plaza,  were 
arranged  tiers  of  seats  for  the  spectators,  who  represented  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  what 
was  at  that  time  one  of  the  richest  cities  in  the  world.  An  enormous  fortune  was  dis- 
played in  the  prizes  alone,  which  were  borne  to  the  plaza  in  a gilded  coach  drawn  by  two 
milk-white  ponies,  “glittering  with  the  costly  jewels  and  precious  stones  that  were  to  be 
awarded  as  premiums.”  The  procession  eclipsed  anything  of  its  kind  seen  nowadays  in 
elaborate  style  and  costliness.  First  came  twelve  arquebusiers  in  scarlet,  then  twelve 

mousquetaires  in  Holland  cloth  bordered 
with  white  points,  after  which  the  trium- 
phal car  of  gilded  silver  appeared,  drawn 
by  eight  black  horses,  in  the  midst  of 
which  was  a dais  of  silver,  surmounted  by 
a throne  of  ivory.  On  the  throne  was 
seated  the  young  master  of  ceremonies, 
wearing  over  his  armor  a rich  Roman 
toga,  bordered  in  gold,  silver,  and  precious 
stones;  on  his  head  was  a wreath  of 
emeralds,  signifying  the  laurels  of  victory; 
the  Cross  of  the  Order  of  Calatrava,  which 
he  wore  on  his  breast,  was  of  priceless 
rubies.  Following  the  triumphal  car  came 
twelve  cavaliers  dressed  in  dark  green, 
riding  horses  of  different  colors,  but  all 
gorgeously  caparisoned  in  gold  and  silver. 
After  these  horsemen  followed  the  other 
participants  in  the  parade,  each  bearing 
some  symbol  or  emblem  of  his  profession 
in  gold,  silver,  or  jewels.  Don  Severino 
Columbus  appeared  with  a globe  of  silver; 
young  Ponce  de  Leon,  a Knight  of  Santiago, 
bore  a silver  image  of  the  Cerro  de  Potosi;  and  another  young  nobleman’s  exhibit  was  a 
unique  representation  of  the  Cerro  in  an  electrical  storm,  with  the  sound  of  thunder  and  the 
play  of  lightning  and  hail  ingeniously  described.  Millions  of  dollars  were  spent  in  these 
fiestas,  the  chief  object  of  which  was  to  give  the  Criollos  an  opportunity  to  break  lances  with 
the  Vascongados.  One  of  the  bitterest  fights  ever  waged  between  the  rival  parties  arose 
out  of  a tourney  between  Don  Nicolas  Saulo  Ponce  de  Leon,  a Criollo  born  in  Potosi,  and 
Don  Sancho  de  Mondragon,  a Vascongado,  for  the  hand  of  a beautiful  girl,  Margarita  de  Ulloa, 
who  loved  Don  Nicolas,  but  had  been  betrothed  to  Don  Sancho  against  her  will.  In  the  tilt, 
Don  Nicolas  defeated  not  only  the  fiance  of  his  beloved  Margarita,  but  also  one  hundred  of  his 


OLD  COLONIAL  DOORWAY  OF  THE  MINT,  POTOSI. 


POTOSI,  THE  FAMOUS  UILLA  IMPERIAL 


M3 

opponent’s  followers  successively:  after  which  he  seized  his  beautiful  sweetheart,  lifted  her  to 
his  saddle,  and  fled  with  her  to  Chuquisaca.  The  story  of  the  fleeing  lovers,  the  pursuit  by 
the  defeated  Don  Sancho,  the  sanguinary  duels  that  followed,  and  the  final  successful  appeal 
of  the  lovers  to  the  Viceroy  of  Lima,  is  one  of  the  most  thrilling  romances  of  colonial  Spain. 
And  it  is  of  peculiar  historical  interest,  since  the  union  of  a Criollo  with  the  daughter  of  a 
Vascongado  resulted  in  a later  reconciliation  between  the  two  parties,  at  least  for  a time,  and 
the  Criollo’s  triumph  had  its  influence  in  shaping  political  affairs  in  favor  of  the  party  which 
afterward  won  the  independence  of  the  American  colonies  from  Spain.  As  it  is  seen,  a 
woman  had  no  small  share  in  bringing 
about  that  portentous  event. 

With  the  War  of  the  Independence, 
and  even  preceding  that  time,  the  riches 
of  Potosi  began  to  decline  and  the  city 
gradually  lost  its  magnificence.  From  a 
population  of  more  than  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  the  life  of  the 
silver  capital  dwindled  until  its  population 
became  less  than  it  is  at  present,  about 
twenty-two  thousand  inhabitants.  But  the 
spirit  of  the  patriotic  Criollo  never  died 
out;  and  in  the  long  War  of  the  Inde- 
pendence some  of  the  bravest  fighters 
were  the  Potosinos,  who  spared  nothing 
to  achieve  the  freedom  of  their  beloved 
country.  A beautiful  story  is  told  by 
“ Brocha  Gorda”of  a Potosi  heroine  who 
saved  the  life  of  the  great  Bolivar  from  a 
premeditated  attack  of  the  royalists  on  the 
night  of  his  famous  ascent  to  the  Cerro  to 
plant  on  its  highest  peak,  nineteen  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  the  sacred  standard  of  liberty.  Thanks  to  her  watchfulness  and 
warning,  the  liberator  was  enabled  to  outwit  his  enemies  and  to  leave  the  city  witliout 
being  harmed. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  republic  the  people  of  the  city  of  the  Cerro  played  an  important 
role  in  political  affairs,  and  Potosi  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  notable  struggles  in 
the  history  of  the  nation.  Near  this  city  the  celebrated  Argentine  general,  Don  Bartolome 
Mitre,  who  had  charge  of  the  Military  College  of  La  Paz  under  General  Jose  Ballivian’s 
administration,  defeated  the  revolutionary  forces  arrayed  against  the  government,  in  recogni- 
tion of  which  he  received  a handsome  shield  and  the  title  of  “Well-deserving  of  the  country 
in  heroic  and  eminent  degree.”  The  same  distinguished  soldier  and  scholar  was  later 


CERRO  DE  POTOSI,  OVERLOOKING  THE  CITY. 


344 


BOLiyiA 


imprisoned  and  banished  by  Beizu,  during  a period  of  rapid  changes  in  government,  when 
Potosi  was  the  chief  theatre  of  revolt.  While  prefect  of  the  department,  General  Campero 


THERMAL  SPRINGS  OF  TARAPAYA.  NEAR  POTOSI. 


was  seized  by  the  revolutionists  and  was  only  at  the  last  moment  rescued  from  the  scaffold, 
where  he  was  about  to  be  put  to  death  because  at  the  command  of  the  invading  forces  he 
refused  to  give  up  his  authority  and  the  protection  of  the  National  Mint.  Many  of  the  most 
celebrated  statesmen  of  the  republic  have  been  natives  of  Potosi,  which  gave  to  Bolivia  the 
famous  dictator  Dr.  Jose  Maria  Linares,  the  ideal  patriot  Don  Tomas  Frias,  and  other  great 
leaders.  Among  its  prefects  who  have  contributed  not  only  to  the  progress  of  their  own 
departments,  but  to  the  lustre  of  the  national  fame,  are  such  distinguished  men  as  Don  Casi- 
miro  Olaheta,  Don  Aniceto  Arce,  Don  Manuel  Jose  Cortes,  Don  Juan  Crisostomo  Carrillo, 
Don  Modesto  Omiste,  General  Jose  Manuel  Rendon,  Don  Demetrio  Calbimonte,  and  Don 
Carlos  Torrico,  all  of  whom  are  known  in  diplomacy  and  letters,  as  well  as  for  their  execu- 
tive ability.  The  present  iutcndenfc  of  Potosi,  Sehor  Don  Luis  Subieta  S.,  is  a clever  writer 
and  an  acknowledged  authority  on  the  history  of  Potosi,  to  which  he  has  devoted  years  of 
careful  study  and  researcli. 

Although  the  city  of  Potosi  does  not  display  the  splendor  of  the  former  Villa  Imperial, 
it  has  many  attractive  features,  and  is,  altogether,  extremely  picturesque.  The  ruins  of 
colonial  temples  and  palaces  are  marvels  of  preservation,  considering  the  centuries  that  have 


POTOSI,  THE  FAMOUS  PILL  A IMPERIAL 


34^ 

passed  since  their  construction,  one  of  the  most  famous  being  the  tower  of  the  old  Jesuit 
church,  known  popularly  as  the  Torre  de  la  Compahia.  It  was  built  in  1^90,  remodelled 
in  1700  by  a wealthy  miner,  Don  Jose  de  Quiroz,  who  spent  a fabulous  fortune  in  works  of 
pious  devotion.  At  his  own  exclusive  expense,  the  altar  of  the  Church  of  Mercy  was  gilded. 
He  rebuilt  the  principal  chapel  of  the  convent  of  San  Agustin,  constructed  two  subter- 
ranean vaults  and  a magnitfcent  altar,  and  for  the  rebuilding  of  the  Jesuit  tower  he  paid 
more  than  forty  thousand  dollars.  The  tower  is  built  of  stone  and  is  divided  into  three 
sections,  of  which  the  two  upper  ones  have  seventeen  niches  for  bells  and  a clock.  The 
tower  is  about  sixty  feet  in  height,  and  is  adorned  on  both  sides  with  handsome  columns. 
The  capitals,  architraves,  and  cornices  are  exquisitely  carved.  In  the  frieze  of  the  entabla- 
ture is  carved  in  high  relief  the  inscription  “ Praised  be  the  most  holy  Sacrament  of  the 
Altar.”  In  addition  to  the  Jesuit  tower  and  the  marvellously  carved  doorways  of  San  Lorenzo 
and  other  old  temples,  the  palace  of  Don  Jose  de  Quiroz  is  hardly  less  an  object  of  interest, 
though  it  has  been  divided  up  into  many  small  houses:  and  the  great  stone  doorway,  above 
which  the  coat  of  arms  of  Quiroz,  chiselled  in  marble,  may  still  be  seen,  now  marks  the 
entrance  to  a humble  bakeshop.  The  penitentiary  in  which  the  unfortunate  Indians  were 
punished,  is  now  a mass  of  forbidding  ruins,  but  it  serves  to  recall  the  stories  one  has  heard 
of  the  cruelties  of  the  mita  system. 

The  modern  attractions  of  Potosi  consist  in  its  spacious  and  picturesque  plazas  and 
its  public  buildings.  Plaza  Pichincha,  which  is  a.  favorite  resort  at  all  times,  presents  a 


i f 


X - 4- . 


.Jt!" 


ARTIFICIAL  LAKE  OF  SAN  SEBASTIAN,  NEAR  POTOSI. 


particularly  brilliant  scene  on  feast  days.  On  occasions  of  religious  celebrations  the  entire 
community  flocks  to  the  plaza,  from  which  the  processions  may  be  witnessed  to  the  best 


BOLiyiA 


advantage,  as  they  leave 
the  cathedral.  The  centre 
of  the  plaza  is  adorned  by 
a handsome  monument 
erected  to  commemorate 
the  Independence.  Fa- 
cing this  square  are  sev- 
eral of  the  most  important 
public  buildings,  such  as 
the  City  Hall  and  the  cele- 
brated Pichincha  College, 
which  was  founded  in 
1826  by  General  Sucre 
and  restored  later  by 
General  Belzu.  It  is  one  of  the  most  notable  edifices  of  the  city.  The  public  library  and 
museum  are  of  especial  interest  for  the  splendid  old  volumes  and  several  notable  pictures  to 
be  seen  there.  An  oil  painting  of  Don  Antonio  Lopez  de  Quiroga,  the  first  millionaire  of 
the  Cerro,  and  founder  of  the  Franciscan  Convent  of  Potosi,  occupies  a conspicuous 
place,  though  the  position  of  honor  is  given  to  a painting  of  the  Spanish  King  Charles  111., 
which  was  ordered  to  be  executed  for  the  occasion  of  that  monarch’s  acclamation  in  1760. 
Potosi  has  a social  club,  entertainments  being  given  from  time  to  time  under  its  auspices. 

On  a fine  day, 
when  the  air  is  clear 
and  the  sky  wears  a 
deep,  beautiful  blue, 
such  as  is  seen  only  at 
great  altitudes  where 
the  variety  of  the 
atmosphere  gives  it 
a peculiar  brilliancy, 
the  most  delightful 
pastime  is  a ride  on 
the  heights  around  the 
city,  first,  of  course,  to 
the  famous  Cerro  and 
then  to  other  points  of 
interest  in  tlie  neigh- 
borhood. Hours  may 
be  spent  enjoyably  in 
visiting  the  artificial 


346 


COMMERCIAL  HOUSE  OF  BEBIN  BROTHERS,  POTOSI. 


POTOSI,  THE  FAMOUS  HILL  A IMPERIAL 


347 


lakes,  which  were  built  by  the  Spaniards  for  the  purpose  of  securing  a constant  and  perma- 
nent water  supply  for  the  higenios,  and  which  are  still  in  use.  The  enormous  scale  on  which 
these  establishments  were 
conducted  may  be  judged 
from  the  statement  that  they 
extended  in  a continuous 
line  from  the  upper  part  of 
the  city  to  a distance  of  more 
than  a league  below  it.  From 
the  artificial  lakes  above  came 
surging  down  the  mountain 
side  the  great  stream  of 
water,  equivalent  to  a river 
in  volume,  which,  after  bow- 
ing through  these  ingciiios  to 
operate  the  machinery  and 
wash  the  metal,  was  so 
deeply  colored  in  transit  that 
it  carried  a rich  red  tide  all 
the  way  to-  the  Pilcomayo, 
leagues  below,  into  which  it  was  discharged.  The  work  of  building  the  lakes  was  begun  in 
1^74  and  completed  in  1621  at  a cost  of  two  million  fve  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The 
frst  to  be  f nished  were  those  of  the  Cerro  of  Cari-cari,  called  San  lldefonso  and  San  Pablo, 
after  which  followed  San  Sebastian,  Illimani,  and  the  rest,  thirty-two  in  all,  though  only 
twenty-two  remain.  The  largest  of  these  is  Chalviri,  three  miles  in  circumference,  and  about 
thirty  feet  in  average  depth,  which  is  filed  with  water  six  months  of  the  year  and  supplies 
fie.  city  fountains  as  well  as  the  mining  establishments.  The  lakes  are  all  located  at  great 
altitudes,  fiose  of  Illimani  and  San  Sebastian  being  sixteen  fiousand  feet  above  sea  level, 
and  they  are  surrounded  by  a series  of  walls,  the  frst  of  which  is  of  stone,  to  receive  the 
shock  of  the  suddenly  checked  torrent  which  pours  into  the  lake  from  the  neighboring 
summits.  The  second  wall  is  of  clay,  fie  third  of  limestone,  and  the  fourth  and  f fth  are  of 
limestone  and  clay,  the  thickness  of  the  fve  walls  being  from  thirty  to  forty  feet.  A system 
of  ditches  connects  the  lakes  with  one  another,  and  the  water  is  brought  down  to  the  city 
through  a conduit  more  than  f fteen  miles  in  length.  By  the  system  in  use  at  the  present 
time,  each  of  the  lakes  has  a sluice  which  controls  fie  amount  of  water  discharged  from  it. 
San  Sebastian  is  the  receiving  medium  for  the  water  from  all  the  lakes,  and  from  it  the 
current  is  carried  down  to  the  city,  as  required. 

Before  the  arffcial  lakes  of  Potosi  were  constructed,  fie  problem  of  supplying  water 
for  mining  establishments  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  Viceroy  Toledo,  as  up  to  that 
time  it  had  been  necessary  to  use  the  most  inadequate  machinery,  worked  by  Indians  and 


ARTIFICIAL  LAKE  ILLIMANI,  SIXTEEN  THOUSAND  FEET  ABOVE  SEA  LEVEL, 

NEAR  POTOSL 


BOLIl^IA 


348 


mules,  in  pulverizing  the  metals.  The  viceroy,  in  company  with  leading  miners,  recon- 
noitred the  neighboring  country,  and  decided  that  the  qiiebrada  of  Tarapaya  offered  the  only 
solution  of  the  question,  as  here  was  abundance  of  water.  Accordingly,  the  first  ingenios 
were  established  in  this  canon,  twelve  miles  west  of  the  city.  The  fame  of  Tarapaya 
antedates  that  of  the  Cerro  de  Potosi,  its  marvellous  thermal  springs  having  been  a favorite 
resort  long  before  the  Spaniards  came  to  America.  The  principal  spring  is  a deep,  round 
pool,  which  has  been  called  the  “swallower  of  men,”  because  of  the  many  drowned  in  its 
deceptive  depths.  Maita-Ccapac,  when  on  a visit  to  the  mines  of  Porco,  stopped  at  Tarapaya, 
and  first  made  the  spring  famous  by  giving  it  the  royal  favor.  He  beautified  the  place, 
making  the  spring  a perfectly  circular  lake,  as  it  remains  to  this  day.  The  thermal  waters 
in  the  vicinity  of  Potosi  are  of  a very  healthful  quality,  and  wonderful  cures  have  been 
effected  at  Miraflores  and  Don  Diego,  and  other  springs. 

Potosi  is  on  the  direct  transportation  highway  northward  and  southward,  and  by  the 
system  of  railways  under  construction  it  will  be  connected  with  all  the  chief  cities  and 
brought  several  days  nearer  the  coast.  Then  every  tourist  to  South  America  can  visit  the 
famous  Cerro  and  enjoy  one  of  the  grandest  sights  in  the  whole  realm  of  Nature,  as  unfolded 
to  view  from  its  heights.  At  one’s  feet  lies  the  quaint  old  city,  with  its  Spanish  calles  and  its 
picturesque  mimdorcs,  its  colonial  ruins  and  the  more  modern  edifices,  and  beyond,  the  view 
appears  to  stretch  to  infinity;  far  away  is  the  scintillating  Cordillera  de  los  Frailes,  reflecting 
the  sun’s  rays  as  if  every  separate  peak  were  a huge  diamond  flashing  under  the  strong  white 
light;  nearer  are  the  peaks  of  the  many  serniiiias  that  cling  like  fringe  to  the  great  Royal  Range. 
Wherever  the  gaze  is  turned,  the  vision  is  a succession  of  mountain  summits,  purples,  dark 
reds,  lighter  grays,  and  snow  white.  There  is  still  another  potent  attraction — the  kind  and 
hospitable  people  of  Potosi  have  a pleasant  welcome  for  all  who  visit  their  city. 


COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  POTOSl. 


V.  ■ ■ 

, •■‘A.  .-^  ^ ■ ' '• 

. ■■  ,•.  'T?.  ' I'  ■ V.  .-  .i,  ,.. 


f 


m 


r 


I: 


V.*; 


COROCORO,  CENTRE  OF  THE  GREATEST  COPPER  MINES  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

RICH  SILVER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES  OE  WESTERN  BOLIVIA— MINING  LAWS 

'^HOUGH  the  fame  of  Bolivia  as  a mining 
^ country  has  been  gained  chiefly  by 
the  enormous  production  of  the  Potosi  and 
Huanchaca  silver  mines,  these  colossal  treas- 
ures do  not  by  any  means  represent  all  the 
mineral  wealth  stored  in  its  mountains  and 
carried  down  its  streams.  Almost  every 
known  metal  exists  in  some  section  of  the 
country,  and  silver,  tin,  and  copper  are  found 
in  several  districts  that  have  become  cele- 
brated, and  rank  among  the  richest  in  the 
world.  Colquechaca  silver,  Oruro  tin,  and 
Corocoro  copper  are  known  in  all  the  great 
markets  and  represent  the  best  quality  of 
these  valuable  metals  to  be  found.  The  geologic  formation  of  a country  so  noted  for 
valuable  ores  is  interesting  for  the  relation  it  bears  to  these  deposits.  Of  the  mountain 
systems,  which  are  its  chief  feature,  says  an  eminent  authority,  the  Coast  Range  is  essentially 
volcanic,  tertiary  formations  are  met  with  on  the  high  plateau  between  the  Coast  Range 
and  the  Cordillera  Real,  and  the  latter,  on  the  eastern  side,  presents  a vast  extent  of  Silurian 
slates  and  shales,  usually  tilted  at  high  angles  and  frequently  bent  and  distorted.  Fossils 
are  scarce,  though  the  ancient  ripple  and  rain  marks  are  extremely  clear  and  abundant. 
Trilobites  are  met  with  in  the  valleys  to  the  southeast  of  La  Paz.  The  carboniferous  system 
appears  to  exist  along  the  extreme  east  of  the  Andes  and  indications  of  petroleum  are  met 
with  at  various  points  in  the  foothills.  Along  the  southern  part  of  the  plateau  there  is  an 
extensive  formation  of  trachytic  porphyry  which  appears  to  have  been  ejected  and  to  have 
spread  over  the  older  rocks.  The  ravine  in  which  the  city  of  La  Paz  is  situated  cuts  through 
and  exposes  a horizontal  layer,  some  twenty  feet  thick,  of  volcanic  ashes  with  fragments  of 

391 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  COROCORO  COPPER  REGION. 


3P 


BOLiyiA 


pumice  stone,  evidently  deposited  under  water  although  it  is  now  buried  some  six  hundred 
feet  below  the  surface  of  the  plains;  further  south  this  layer  crops  out  at  various  points  and 
is  visible  for  some  seventy  miles.  Probably  it  was  ejected  from  the  Sajama  and  neighboring 
volcanoes  at  the  time  when  the  great  lake,  of  which  Titicaca  and  Poopo  are  the  surviving  features, 
occupied  the  entire  plateau.  Eruptions  of  porphyritic  and  other  igneous  rocks  are  seen  at 
many  points  along  the  eastern  side  of  the  tableland,  breaking  through  and  distorting  the  older 
shales  and  slates  and  forming  a distinctive  feature  of  all  the  silver  and  tin  mining  centres. 

The  seirania  in  which  the  silver  mines  of  Colquechaca  are  located  is  in  the  heart  of  one 
of  the  richest  mineral  regions  of  the  globe.  Colquechaca  is  the  provincial  capital  of  Chayanta 
in  the  department  of  Potosi,  and  is  situated  midway  between  the  railroad  town  of  Challa- 
pata  and  the  city  of  Sucre.  It  has  been  a mining  centre  for  hundreds  of  years,  though 
under  Spanish  rule  the  mines  were  worked  only  in  a superficial  and  primitive  way;  and 
when  the  War  of  Independence  put  a stop  to  all  mining  industry,  they  were  abandoned,  as 
were  nearly  all  the  great  mines  of  the  country.  About  twenty-five  years  ago  the  exploitation 
of  the  Colquechaca  minerals  was  established  on  a practical  and  permanent  basis,  and  since 
that  time  the  mines  have  yielded  nearly  a hundred  million  bolivianos.  The  Colquechaca 
silver  ores  yield  in  some  instances  two  thousand  seven  hundred  ounces  to  the  ton,  these 
mines  being  renowned  throughout  the  world  for  the  high-grade  rosider,  which  is  found  in 
abundance.  The  Compahia  Colquechaca  Aullagas  de  Bolivia  is  the  principal  owner  of  the 
mines  of  this  district,  controlling  six  socavoucs,  in  which  several  miles  of  railway  are  operated, 
equipped  with  freight  cars  for  hauling  the  metal  out  of  the  mine.  A traction  engine  and  a 
Cornish  pump  have  been  established,  and  the  company  has  four  steam  engines  and  two 
foundries  in  connection  with  the  mines.  The  ores  are  treated  in  the  iiigenios  of  Rosario  and 
Palca.  Since  the  closure  of  the  Indian  mints  to  the  free  coinage  of  silver  in  1893,  and  the 
consequent  heavy  fall  in  the  price  of  the  metal,  Colquechaca  has  been  worked  for  other 
metals  as  well  as  silver,  the  production  of  this  mineral  being  necessarily  reduced.  The 
same  circumstances  have  prevailed  in  nearly  all  the  silver-mining  districts,  though  the  metal 
is  still  produced  in  considerable  quantities  in  Cinti,  Porco,  Portugalete,  Andacaba,  and  other 
well-known  silver  mines.  It  is  probable  that  with  the  completion  of  the  railway  system, 
the  improved  facilities  for  transportation  will  revive  this  industry  throughout  the  whole 
country  with  wonderful  results. 

At  present,  Bolivia  is  gaining  worldwide  fame  by  the  enormous  quantity  and  excellent 
quality  of  tin  which  the  country  produces.  This  metal  has  not  as  yet  been  found  anywhere 
in  the  Coast  Range  of  the  Andes,  but  it  abounds  in  the  Royal  Range.  Mr.  John  Minchin,  an 
authority  on  everything  connected  with  Boli\'ian  mines,  says  that  ores  running  as  high  as 
forty  or  fifty  per  cent  of  fne  tin  are  not  uncommon,  and  under  favorable  circumstances 
as  low  as  three  per  cent  may  be  worked  to  a small  proft,  but  the  average  contents  in 
fne  tin  of  ores  worked  by  the  larger  enterprises  may  be  estimated  at  from  eight  to  ten 
per  cent.  Ores  worked  more  especially  for  silver  also  frequently  contain  from  two  to  f ve  per 
cent  of  tin  oxide,  which  in  such  cases  is  cheaply  extracted  from  the  tailings  resulting  from 


SILVER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES 


VA 


amalgamation  or  lixiviation.  Water  power  is  scarce  on  the  plateau,  and,  in  consequence, 
steam  power  is  employed  in  the  mining  establishments,  native  fuels  being  chiefly  used,  as 
coal  costs  eight  pounds  sterling  per  ton  at  the  railway  stations.  Of  late  years  several 
anthracite  producer  gas  engines  from  the  Deutz  works,  in  Germany,  have  been  introduced, 
with  very  satisfactory  results  as  regards  economy,  the  working  cost  being  about  twopence 
per  horse  power,  as  compared  with  threepence  for  native  fuel  and  fourpence  to  fivepence 
for  steam  coal.  “ In  spite- of  all  the  care  at  present  possible  in  the  concentration  of  tin  ores,” 


COLQUECHACA,  CELEBRATED  FOR  ITS  MINES. 


says  Mr.  Minchin,  “there  is  commonly  a loss  of  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  per  cent,  though 
it  is  hoped  that  this  may  be  reduced  later  on  with  improved  methods  of  treatment.” 

The  total  tin  production  of  Bolivia  for  the  year  1909,  reduced  to  bar  tin,  was  eighteen 
thousand  tons.  The  development  of  this  branch  of  mining  industry  is  still  in  its  infancy  in 
this  country,  new  tin  deposits  being  found  constantly,  while  the  few  mines  that  were 
discovered  by  the  Spaniards  and  the  natives  long  ago  are  practically  new  in  exploitation, 
never  having  been  worked  to  any  extent  formerly,  as  this  metal,  unlike  gold  and  silver,  was 
not  regarded  as  valuable  in  the  earlier  days.  The  history  of  tin  mining  is  of  comparatively 
recent  origin,  the  first  tin  mines  exploited  in  Europe  having  been  those  of  England  and 
Germany,  discovered  in  the  thirteenth  century.  An  interesting  monograph  published  by 


3^4 


BOLIVIA 


the  Oficina  Nacional  de  Inmigracion,  Estadistica  y Propaganda  Geografica  of  La  Paz  gives 
information  to  prove  that  the  pre-Columbian  inhabitants  of  the  province  of  Larecaja,  and  of 


MINING  TOWN  OF  INQUISIVT. 


other  tin-bearing  regions  of  Bolivia,  discovered  tin  and  worked  it,  but  without  being  aware 
of  its  full  value  as  a metal.  Archmological  investigations  show  that  tin,  amalgamated  with 
copper,  was  used  by  the  Aymara  and  Quichua  Indians  for  making  war  weapons  and  other 
objects,  though  the  bronzes  of  this  composition  indicate  only  a slight  knowledge  of  its 
metallurgical  possibilities.  These  bronze  lutacas  are  found  with  much  more  frequency  in 
ruins  of  Quichua  construction  than  in  those  known  to  be  of  Aymara  origin.  This  is  the 
more  remarkable  because  the  greatest  abundance  of  tin  is  found  in  the  territory  occupied  by 
the  Aymaras.  Tin  mines  were  exploited  during  the  Spanish  colonial  period,  but  only  on  a 
very  limited  scale.  In  an  old  document  published  in  1640,  the  author,  a curate  of  Potosi, 
calls  attention  to  rich  mines  of  tin  in  the  provinces  of  Chayanta,  Larecaja,  Oruro,  and  else- 
where, which  he  says  “were  worked  by  the  Indians  in  the  time  of  the  Incas,  and  which 
have  since  been  exploited  by  the  Spaniards.” 

The  tin  mining  region  of  Bolivia  is  divided  into  four  districts:  La  Paz  in  the  north, 
Oruro  in  the  centre,  Chorolque  in  the  south,  and  Potosi  in  the  east.  In  the  department  of 
La  Paz,  the  beautiful  snow  range  which  extends  from  Illimani  to  Sorata,  and  which  is 
known  to  all  travellers  who  cross  Titicaca,  because  of  the  enchanting  prospect  it  offers 
as  seen  from  the  lake,  marks  a region  rich  in  minerals,  especially  in  tin,  silver,  iron,  and 


SILVER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES  3^-^- 

bismuth.  Huayna  Potosi,  with  its  twin  peaks,  Kaka-aca  and  Locka,  is  one  of  the  richest 
cerros  of  this  district,  and  it  has  been  exploited  at  various  periods  for  silver,  bismuth, 

and  tin,  which  are  found  here  in  abundance.  With  the  investment  of  large  capital,  this 

mountain  might  prove  an  enormous  producer  of  tin,  as  it  is  rich  in  good  ore.  A few  miles 
distant  from  Huayna  Potosi  the  peak  of  Milluni  may  easily  be  distinguished  among  the 
towering  summits.  It  is  the  site  of  valuable  tin  mines  and  yields  rich  iron  ore.  The 

width  of  the  silver  veins  in  this  mine  varies  from  two  to  thirteen  feet,  and  enormous 

quantities  of  almost  pure  metal  are  taken  out  of  them,  with  very  little  expense.  The 
greater  part  of  the  work  has  been  done  on  the  surface,  in  the  outcroppings,  by  means 
of  open  cuts,  so  that  the  interior  of  the  Cerro  is  hardly  known.  One  socavbn  only  has 
been  opened  within  the  mine  to  a depth  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  with  two 
broad  and  well  built  galleries.  The  mines  of  Huayna  Potosi  and  Milluni  are  exploited  by 
a French  company,  having  headquarters  in  Paris,  and  an  office  in  La  Paz.  Milluni  being 
so  close  to  La  Paz,  and  the  roads  in  good  condition,  cargoes  can  be  taken  in  carts  direct 
from  that  city  or  from  the  port  of  Chililaya  on  Lake  Titicaca,  and  the  rate  of  shipment  from 
Milluni  to  Mollendo  is  less  than  that  charged  for  ores  going  from  Oruro  to  Antofagasta. 
In  both  mines  lumber  for  construction  purposes  is  cheaper  than  in  La  Paz,  as  it  comes 
chietly  from  Songo  in  the  Yungas,  only  a few  miles  distant,  though  for  Oregon  pine  the 
same  price  is  paid  as  in  La  Paz,  about  fifteen  cents,  gold,  a square  foot.  Both  Huayna 
Potosi  and  Milluni  are  worked  for  tin  at  an  altitude  of  sixteen  thousand  feet  above  the 


CARRYING  FREIGHT  TO  THE  MINES  OF  QUIMSACRUZ. 


sea.  Chacaltaya,  a peak  which  belongs  to  the  same  group,  is  also  under  exploitation, 
and  with  more  favorable  conditions  may  develop  very  rich  lodes,  as  it  has  not  yet  been 
thoroughly  worked. 


BOLIVIA 


3^6 

Probably  the  richest  tin  mines  of  the  La  Paz  district  are  those  of  Inquisivi,  and  espe- 
cially Quimsacruz.  Recently  these  mines  have  been  producing  enormous  quantities  of  the 


FAMOUS  ROSICLER  SILVER  MINES,  COLQUECHACA. 


valuable  metal,  and,  according  to  the  noted  French  geologist  Dereims,  the  lofty  range  of 
Tres  Cruces,  otherwise  known  as  Quimsacruz,  which  rises  to  an  altitude  of  about  twenty 
thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  contains  the  richest  minerals  in  all  Bolivia.  This  section  of 
the  Cordillera  Real  begins  south  of  the  peak  Illimani,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  natural  cut 
in  the  great  range  through  which  the  La  Paz  River  flows  on  its  course  northward ; and  it 
extends  entirely  across  the  southern  part  of  the  province  of  Inquisivi,  where  it  borders  the 
department  of  Oruro.  In  this  noble  range  tin  mines  are  being  worked  with  magnificent 
results,  and  mineralogists  of  eminent  authority  pronounce  this  to  be  the  richest  tin-mining 
district  to  be  found  anywhere,  equal  to  Malacca,  which  is  generally  supposed  to  have  the 
finest  tin  mines  in  the  world.  Not  only  tin,  but  silver  and  other  metals  abound  here.  The 
Colquiri  mine  was  worked  by  the  Spaniards  for  chloride  of  silver,  the  deepest  veins  having 
been  exploited  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  below  the  surface,  and  at  water  level. 
One  vein  is  recognizable  for  three  miles  on  the  surface  by  debris  scattered  along  the  course. 
A tunnel  of  one  thousand  feet  in  length  still  exists,  cutting  this  lode  above  the  level  of  the 
water,  and  another  vein  as  long  as  the  one  already  mentioned.  Evidently  tin  as  well  as 
silver  was  extracted  in  those  days,  though  only  in  small  quantities,  owing  to  the  indifference 
universally  shown  by  the  Spaniards  for  tin  mining.  The  mineral  wealth  of  Inquisivi  has 


SILI/ER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES 


3S7 


recently  attracted  new  enterprises,  and  several  important  mines  have  been  discovered  within 
the  past  year  or  two.  The  mines  of  Monte  Blanco  are  enormously  productive,  as  are  also 
those  of  Avicaya,  owned  by  Abelli  and  Company,  and  the  Totoral  and  Chuncho  mines,  in 
the  Cerro  of  Challa  Grande.  These  mines  are  situated  near  the  base  of  the  Cerro,  Chuncho 
being  at  the  greatest  altitude,  near  the  centre,  Totoral  further  down  the  slope,  and  Avicaya 
four  hundred  feet  below  Totoral.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Cerro  are  rich  veins  of  silver, 
and  it  is  noteworthy  that  all  the  tin  mines  of  Quimsacruz  are  on  the  south  side  of  the  range, 
the  mineral  veins  on  the  eastern  slopes  being  silver,  while  on  the  north  is  found  auriferous 
quartz.  Tin  mining  in  the  mountains  of  Tres  Cruces  offers  a particularly  promising  prospect, 
as  is  proved  by  the  new  discoveries  of  this  valuable  metal  which  are  constantly  being  made 
in  this  region. 

In  the  tin-mining  district  of  Potosi  are  included  the  rich  ccrros  of  the  province  of 
Chayanta,  in  which  are  found  the  mines  of  Uncia  and  Llallagua,  both  in  the  Cerro  de  Uncia. 
This  mountain  was  formerly  noted  for  the  rich  quality  of  silver  taken  from  its  mines,  but  at 
present  it  is  worked  chiefly  for  tin.  The  Compafiia  Minera  Uncia,  which  is  under  the 
direction  of  Mr.  John  B.  Minchin,  owns  several  of  the  principal  mines  of  the  Cerro,  which 
are  exploited  according  to  the  most  modern  methods  and  are  producing  a superior  quality  of 


IRON  MOUNTAIN  ON  THE  ROAD  FROM  LA  PAZ  TO  THE  MINES. 


tin.  The  output  of  this  company’s  mines  for  the  year  1901^  amounted  to  four  hundred  and 
eighty-five  tons  of  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  forty  pounds.  Modern  machinery  is 


3^8 


BOLIVIA 


used  in  tlie  treatment  of  the  ores  by  lixiviation  and  other  processes.  The  Salvadora  mines, 
of  Uncia,  owned  by  Don  S.  Patino,  are  also  yielding  a large  quantity  of  rich  tin  under  the 


MOUNT  KAKA-ACA. 


modern  system  of  treatment  which  the  ores  receive  in  the  well-equipped  establishments. 
Llallagua  is  the  centre  of  some  of  the  most  valuable  tin  mines  in  Bolivia.  The  name  of 
one  of  the  leading  statesmen  of  the  country,  General  Sainz,  is  associated  with  the  exploitation 
of  the  chief  of  these  mines,  which  owe  their  development  to  the  Empresa  Llallagua,  of 
which  he  was  the  organizer  and  chief  owner.  Last  year  General  Sainz  negotiated  with  a 
Chilean-Bolivian  syndicate,  which  agreed  to  purchase  this  valuable  property.  The  capital 
stock  of  the  new  company  is  one  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling,  divided  into  one 
hundred  shares  of  one  thousand  pounds  sterling  each,  and  the  directors  are  leading 
hnanciers  of  Chile  and  Bolivia.  The  mineral  wealth  of  Llallagua  is  comprised  in  three 
mines  now  under  exploitation.  La  Blanca,  San  Jose,  and  Quinsachata,  which  cover  a territory 
of  about  one  thousand  acres.  The  mines  are  situated  about  forty  miles  east  of  Challapata, 
and  tliree  miles  from  Uncia.  A cart  road  connects  the  mines  of  both  Llallagua  and  Uncia 
with  the  railway,  the  construction  of  this  highway  having  been  completed  at  the  expense  of 
tlie  mine  owners.  General  Sainz  and  Mr.  Minchin.  The  new  railroad  now  being  built  from 
Oruro  to  Potosi  will  pass  through  these  mining  properties.  The  production  of  the  Llallagua 
mines  is  estimated  at  five  tons  daily  of  hiirilld  de  csfano,  or  concentrate  tin,  of  seventy 
per  cent  tin,  of  tlie  best  quality.  The  establishments  in  which  the  ores  of  these  mines  are 
treated  are  equipped  with  modern  machinery,  and  a trolley  connects  the  mines  with  the 


SILVER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES 


ingenio  for  concentration.  The  minerals  from  this  part  of  Bolivia  are  shipped  by  way  of 
Antofagasta,  while  those  of  Huayna  Potosi,  Milluni,  and  other  mineral  districts  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Lake  Titicaca,  are  carried  across  the  lake  to  Puno  and  thence  to  Mollendo. 

On  the  Titicaca  plateau,  about  fifty  miles  southwest  of  La  Paz,  are  located  the  extensive 
copper  mines  of  Corocoro,  the  richest  in  South  America.  Like  other  famous  mines  of 
Bolivia  the  wealth  of  Corocoro  was  discovered  long  ago  by  Indians,  but  it  is  only  within 
recent  years  that  its  treasures  have  been  exploited  with  important  results.  The  copper 
lodes  of  Corocoro  exist  in  a sandstone  formation,  the  metal  being  met  with  in  solid  frag- 
ments and  in  fine  grains  disseminated  through  the  matrix  and  requiring  only  grinding  and 
concentration  to  obtain  a product  containing  some  eighty-five  per  cent  of  copper  harrilla, 
in  which  form  it  is  exported.  A few  of  the  huge  pieces  of  metal  found  at  Corocoro  have 
been  placed  on  exhibition  in  the  museum  of  La  Paz,  and  are  considered  among  the  largest 
ever  found  in  this  form,  measuring  many  feet  in  circumference.  These  masses  are  called 
clianiiiis.  The  abundance  and  rich  quality  of  Corocoro  copper  entitles  it  to  rank  second 
only  to  the  famous  mines  of  Lake  Superior  in  the  United  States.  There  are  numerous 
companies  engaged  in  exploiting  the  riches  of  the  Corocoro  region,  though  probably  the 
largest  mining  interests  here  are  held  by  a French  company  under  the  direction  of  Sehores 
Berthin,  who  control  several  mines.  The  output  of  the  Corocoro  mines  amounts  in  value 
to  about  two  million  bolivianos  annually.  In  addition  to  Corocoro,  which  represents  the 
principal  wealth  of  copper-producing  Bolivia,  there  are  promising  deposits  in  various  sections 
of  the  departments  of  Potosi,  Chuquisaca,  and  Cochabamba.  The  Compahia  Cobrizos  de 


TRANSPORTATION  OF  COPPER  FROM  THE  COROCORO  MINES. 


Bolivia  has  important  mines  of  both  copper  and  silver  situated  about  six  miles  from  Rio 
Grande  near  the  Antofagasta  and  Oruro  Railway,  southwest  of  Uyuni,  and  in  the  province 


BOLIVIA 


of  Frias,  near  the  city  of  Potosi,  metals  which  some  experts  claim  to  be  superior  in  quality 
and  equal  in  quantity  to  those  of  Corocoro  have  been  found,  though  the  mines  are  not 
worked,  because  of  the  lack  of  capital  for  their  development.  In  the  province  of  Porco,  in  the 
canton  of  Yura,  midway  between  Huanchaca  and  Potosi  valuable  mines  of  copper,  as  well 
as  of  gold,  have  recently  been  discovered,  and  it  is  only  a question  of  a short  time  when  large 
capital  will  be  invested  for  their  development.  The  railway  which  is  to  join  Uyuni  with  Potosi 
will  pass  through  one  of  the  richest  mineral  regions  of  the  globe,  and  within  twenty-five  miles 
of  the  mines  just  referred  to.  A great  opportunity  is  offered  in  Yura  for  the  exploitation  of 
the  mines,  as  there  is  abundance  of  water,  a prime  necessity  for  the  economical  treatment 
of  the  ores.  Several  of  the  older  mines,  worked  originally  for  silver,  contain  in  their  ores 
from  ten  per  cent  to  twenty-five  per  cent  of  copper,  but  want  of  capital  and  high  freights 
have  prevented  their  being  worked  in  modern  times  for  copper.  Copper  pyrites  and  other 
copper  ores  also  exist  at  many  points,  but  for  similar  reasons  little  attention  has  as  yet  been 
given  to  them.  In  fact,  ores  containing  anything  less  than  twenty-five  per  cent  of  copper 
would  not  pay  to  work  and  export  under  present  conditions,  and,  owing  to  the  scarcity  and 
cost  of  suitable  fuel,  neither  could  such  ores  be  advantageously  reduced  to  bar  copper  in  the 
country.  The  construction  of  more  railways  is  a vital  necessity  in  Bolivia,  the  Antofagasta 
line  being  taxed  to  the  utmost  to  handle  the  abundant  traffic,  with  the  result  that  freights  are 
necessarily  high,  rendering  the  importation  of  machinery,  fuel,  and  general  merchandise 
extremely  costly,  as  well  as  making  the  export  of  produce  enormously  expensive. 

Mine  owners  say  that  the  native  labor,  although  at  times  somewhat  limited,  is  not  so 
unsatisfactory  as  might  be  supposed,  the  Indians  and  clwlos  working  steadily  and  peaceably 
as  a rule,  though  they  spend  a great  deal  of  time  in  their  numerous  fiestas,  when  they  always 
require  an  extra  holiday  for  getting  sober  and  ready  for  work  again.  A great  many  mine 
owners  are  urging  the  modification  and  improvement  of  the  mining  laws,  which,  though 
good  in  principle,  are  frequently  distorted  in  their  application,  owing  to  the  interpretation 
put  upon  them  by  badly  informed  petty  authorities.  The  present  government  is  devoting 
careful  attention  to  this  as  well  as  to  other  problems  which  affect  the  development  of  the 
national  industries. 

The  mining  laws  of  Bolivia  are  liberal  and  offer  few  restrictions.  All  metalliferous  sub- 
stances belong  to  the  state.  Anyone  who  enjoys  civil  rights  may  obtain  thirty  perteiieiiclas 
of  new  mining  property,  and  as  much  as  he  wants  of  mining  lands  already  worked.  The 
preferred  right  is  given  to  the  first  who  presents  his  petition  for  the  concession.  A pcrfe- 
iieiic/a  is  a hectare,  about  two  and  one-half  acres,  of  undefined  depth,  which  is  measured  in 
the  direction  requested.  The  method  of  exploitation  is  optional.  Concessions  are  perpetual, 
providing  that  a pateute  of  four  bolivianos  per  lode  per  annum,  and  two  bolivianos  per  annum 
for  each  pertencncia  in  placer  mines  is  paid  semi-annually.  The  failure  to  pay  for  a year  is 
sufficient  cause  for  considering  the  concession  abandoned.  Machinery  destined  for  the  ex- 
ploitation of  mines  pays  no  fiscal  duties.  Inorganic  substances,  with  the  exception  of  those 
of  an  earthy  nature,  are  acquired  in  conformity  with  the  mining  law,  concessions  being  given 


SILVER,  TIN,  AND  COPPER  MINES 


361 


for  sixty-four  perteneficias  in  new  deposits,  and  more  than  that  territory  in  old  fields.  Ten 
bolivianos  is  the  sum  charged  for  the  writ  of  adjudication.  The  preliminary  procedure 
relative  to  acquiring  mines  is  made  in  the  presence  of  a special  notary  resident  in  the  capital 
of  the  district  in  which  the  desired  property  is  found.  The  prefect  of  the  department  is  the 
authority  through  whom  the  concession  of  pertcneiicias  is  transmitted.  All  matters  relative 
to  priority  of  petition,  transgression  of  limits,  and  similar  causes  for  complaint,  are  brought 
before  the  ordinary  justices.  The  owner  who  desires  to  leave  off  working  his  mine  must 
notify  the  authorities,  in  order  not  to  be  held  responsible  for  the  payment  of  patentes. 
In  case  of  failure  to  pay  these  charges  for  a year,  the  mine  is  auctioned  to  the  highest 


THREE  PRINCIPAL  MINING  ESTABLISHMENTS  OF  COROCORO ; CHILD,  CARERAS,  AND  MALACATE 


bidder;  and  failing  a purchaser,  it  remains  in  possession  of  the  state,  to  be  given  as  a 
concession  to  the  first  petitioner. 

The  mining  laws  which  govern  the  Cerro  de  Potosi  have  frequently  required  revision. 
They  are,  in  some  respects,  distinct  from  those  governing  the  acquisition  of  new  mines.  A 
great  deal  of  difficulty  has  been  encountered  in  the  past  because  of  the  impossibility  of 
marking  absolute  limits  to  the  mining  properties  of  Potosi.  Formerly,  the  owner  who  could 
employ  the  largest  body  of  workmen  and  extend  his  mines  most  rapidly  could  swallow  up 
the  lesser  properties.  For  instance,  if  while  working  a vein  the  owner  strikes  through  the 
wall  which  separates  his  claim  from  a neighboring  mine  he  becomes  the  possessor  of 
the  latter.  This  law  has  necessitated  the  keeping  of  a guard  at  all  points  where  such  an 


362 


BOLIVIA 


invasion  might  be  feared,  and  it  has  frequently  proved  a source  of  dissatisfaction.  The 
government  has  considered  various  plans  for  the  solution  of  the  problem,  and  the  law  has 
been  amended  in  notable  features,  but  as  the  Cerro  seems  to  be  a great  mass  of  metal  it 
presents  unique  features  for  legislation.  In  some  respects  the  mining  laws  of  Bolivia 
necessarily  differ  from  those  of  other  countries,  the  conditions  being  distinct,  but  the  law- 
makers are  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  requirements  of  the  mining  districts  and  the 
question  is  studied  carefully  from  every  standpoint.  From  long  experience  in  dealing  with 
the  problems  that  are  peculiar  to  a mining  country,  the  Bolivian  people  have  become 
informed  on  all  that  relates  to  mining  laws  and  their  interpretation,  and  improvements  are 
constantly  being  made  to  advance  the  progress  of  this  important  industry. 


MINING  DISTRICT  OF  QUIMSACRUZ,  NEAR  ORURO. 


CITY  OF  ORURO. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 


ORURO  AND  ITS  PROSPEROUS  MINES 

r^URING  the  colonial  period  Oruro  was  the  second  great 
^ mining  centre  of  Alto  Peru,  ranking  next  to  Potosi  in 
the  wealth  of  its  mines  and  the  luxury  and  extravagance 
of  its  inhabitants.  The  fiestas,  pageants,  and  tourneys  of 
the  Real  Villa  de  San  Felipe  de  Austria  frequently  rivalled 
in  splendor  those  of  the  Villa  Imperial  itself,  and  the  popu- 
lation increased  so  rapidly  in  consequence  of  a continuous 
development  of  mineral  wealth  that,  from  a hundred  in- 
habitants at  the  time  of  its  foundation  in  1604,  the  city 
grew  to  number  seventy-six  thousand  residents  in  1678. 

The  earliest  history  regarding  Oruro  is  found  in  pre- 
Columbian  records  which  state  that  several  Incas  visited 
this  locality,  and  that  it  was  an  important  centre  of  popu- 
lation in  the  province  of  Collasuyo.  The  great  Pachacutec, 
who  is  generally  considered  the  most  noted  of  the  Peru- 
vian emperors  after  Manco-Ccapac,  made  Oruro  his  place 
of  residence  for  some  months  while  conducting  expeditions  to  various  sections  of  the 
Aymara  province.  The  Spaniards  passed  very  close  to  this  settlement  when  they  first 
invaded  Collasuyo  and  founded  the  city  of  Paha,  three  or  four  leagues  distant,  but  it  was 
not  until  1 795  that  its  existence  was  discovered  by  the  conquerors,  when  a curate  named 
Don  Francisco  de  Medrano,  who  had  been  told  by  the  Indians  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  this 
neighborhood,  found  his  way  to  the  little  pueblo  of  Oruro,  or  Uru-uru,  meaning  “whence 
comes  the  light,”  and  established  here  his  authority  as  its  first  alcalde.  As  previously  stated, 
the  city  was  not  officially  founded  until  some  years  later,  when,  according  to  the  interesting 
old  document  which  is  still  preserved  in  the  archives  of  the  city,  the  ceremony  was  performed 
under  the  authority  of  Don  Manuel  Castro  y Padilla,  who  represented  His  Catholic  Majesty 
King  Philip  III.  The  occasion  was  one  of  great  importance  to  the  new  colony,  and  the 

36^ 


366 


BOLIVIA 


official  services  were  marked  by  extreme  formality,  beginning  with  the  celebration  of  mass 
and  the  unfurling  of  the  royal  standard,  while  a choir  of  priests  sang  the  hymn  of  Veni 
Sancte  Spiritiis,  and  the  site  of  the  new  municipality  was  blessed  with  solemn  consecration. 
The  standard  was  thrice  raised  during  the  naming  of  the  city:  “The  very  noble  and  loyal 
city  of  San  Felipe  de  Austria,  for  the  King  Don  Philip  our  sovereign  and  for  his  successors 
in  the  Crown  of  Castile  and  Leon  and  Peru,  whom  may  God  keep  for  many  years.”  As 
was  the  custom  upon  such  occasions,  a gallows  was  immediately  set  up  in  token  of  the 
royal  possession.  Oruro  sustained  well  the  dignity  of  a royal  city,  christened  with  imposing 
rites,  and  in  the  social  and  political  events  of  the  colonial  period  took  a conspicuous  part,  the 
citizens  being  especially  renowned  for  their  hospitality,  which  was  lavishly  shown  upon 
the  noted  occasions  when  high  political  and  church  authorities  from  Spain  visited  this 
prominent  centre  of  colonial  wealth. 

Not  only  did  Oruro  count  among  the  richest  and  most  important  cities  of  the  viceroy- 
alty of  Peru,  but  it  early  became  noted  for  the  independent  character  of  its  citizens,  who 
were  among  the  first  to  raise  the  standard  of  revolution  against  the  tyranny  of  Spanish  rule, 
and  to  whose  valiant  and  loyal  efforts  some  of  the  most  noted  victories  of  the  Independence 
were  due.  Since  the  inauguration  of  the  republic  the  city  has  twice  been  honored  by  a 
supreme  decree  of  eulogy,  the  first  qualifying  it  as  “heroic  and  intrepid,  deserving  the 
national  admiration,”  and  the  second,  as  “first  city  savior  of  the  institutions.”  Congress 
has  held  sessions  here  upon  several  occasions,  and,  in  recent  years  especially,  the  city  has 
been  constantly  advancing  in  commercial  as  well  as  in  political  importance. 

Although  Oruro  has  a severe  climate,  due  to  its  situation  on  the  high  plateau,  at  an 
altitude  of  about  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  exposed  to  strong 
southwest  winds,  which  in  July,  August,  and  September  are  sometimes  veritable  hurricanes; 
it  is  healthful,  and  those  who  live  there,  foreigners  as  well  as  natives,  find  it  agreeable, 
except  during  the  worst  season.  There  are  many  foreign  residents  in  Oruro,  English, 
German,  French,  and  North  American,  who  have  established  very  comfortable  homes  and 
have  organized  several  clubs.  The  chief  activity  of  the  town  centres  in  the  principal  plaza 
and  in  the  streets  branching  from  it  in  all  directions.  Owing  to  the  great  altitude  and  the 
exposure  of  the  city  to  cold  winds,  vegetation  has  not  shown  any  great  development  in  this 
district,  and  the  city  itself  presents  a rather  dull  aspect  without  the  adornment  of  trees  and 
shrubs.  But  the  plaza  is  well  paved  and  makes  a pleasant  promenade,  and  during  the 
favorable  season  band  concerts  are  frequently  held  here.  Some  of  the  more  important 
buildings  face  the  plaza,  such  as  the  University,  the  Government  House,  and  others,  though 
there  are  large  and  well-built  edifices  on  all  the  principal  streets.  The  Spanish  style  of 
architecture  prevails,  and  houses  are  generally  of  one  or  two  story  construction.  To  the 
North  American  the  aspect  of  long  rows  of  buildings  of  one  or  more  stories  in  height  is 
particularly  foreign,  and  at  first  sight  disappointing,  as  it  seems  to  indicate  lack  of  enterprise 
or  of  prosperity.  But  a visit  to  one  of  these  modest-looking  houses  is  often  a surprising 
revelation,  as  they  make  up  in  surface  space  what  they  lack  in  height,  and  sometimes  cover 


ORURO  AND  ITS  PROSPEROUS  MINES 


367 


a remarkably  large  area,  with  their  patios  and  corridors.  The  churches,  hospitals,  and 
schools  are  commodious  buildings,  and  the  city  has  a theatre,  a mineralogical  museum, 
and  a public  library. 

The  rapid  increase  of  production  in  the  mines  of  the  department  of  Oruro  has  contrib- 
uted to  make  its  capital  an  important  industrial  centre:  and  as  the  new  system  of  railways 
provides  for  several  branches  from  this  point  to  the  eastern  and  southern  cities  of  the 
republic,  its  growing  fame  as  a rich  entrepot  for  the  valuable  mineral  products  of  neighboring 
departments  will  make  it  still  better  known  as  one  of  the  great  mining  centres  of  the  world. 


MAIN  PLAZA,  ORURO. 


The  present  population  of  the  city  is  about  eighteen  thousand  inhabitants,  though  it  is 
increasing  annually  since  the  exploitation  of  tin  has  attracted  many  people  to  this  department 
and  to  its  chief  city. 

The  department  of  Oruro  covers  fifty  thousand  square  kilometres,  and  is  divided  into 
four  provinces,  Cercado,  Carangas,  Poopo,  and  Abaroa,  each  of  them  rich  in  minerals  and 
renowned  for  their  splendid  contributions  to  the  royal  treasury  during  colonial  times.  At 
one  time  five  thousand  mines  were  in  operation  in  this  department  alone,  and  it  is  recorded 
that  during  the  three  years  preceding  the  Independence  its  mining  taxes  to  the  Crown 


368 


BOLiyiA 


amounted  to  forty  million  dollars.  The  Socavon  de  la  Virgen,  San  Jose,  Huanuni,  Negro 
Pabellon,  Morococala,  and  Antequera,  which  now  chiefly  represent  rich  mines  of  tin,  were, 
centuries  ago,  the  sites  of  important  silver  mines,  the  tin  being  held  of  such  little  value  that 
it  was  rarely  extracted.  The  Socavon  de  la  Virgen  is  situated  close  to  the  city  of  Oruro,  at 
the  foot  of  the  neighboring  cerro,  and  it  is  still  rich  in  silver  as  well  as  in  tin.  It  has  the 
distinction  of  being  one  of  the  oldest  mines  in  Bolivia,  having  been  the  first  exploited  by 
the  curate  Don  Francisco  de  Medrano,  when  he  discovered  and  settled  in  the  Aymara  pueblo 
of  the  Serrania  Uru-Uru,  at  the  foot  of  the  Cerro  Pie  de  Gallo,  or  cock’s  foot.  The  Com- 
pania  Minera  de  Oruro  now  owns  this  mine,  which  is  provided  with  modern  machinery,  the 
establishment  for  the  treatment  of  its  ores  being  situated  at  Machacamarca,  where  both  silver 
and  tin  are  extracted  by  the  amalgamation  and  lixiviation  processes. 

The  San  Jose  mine  is  situated  two  miles  from  the  city  of  Oruro,  in  a sheltered  slope  of 
the  serrania,  where  a very  busy  little  town  has  grown  up  to  mark  the  site  occupied  four 
hundred  years  ago  by  an  Indian  settlement.  The  town  of  San  Jose  is  a typical  mining 
pueblo,  containing  about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  and  on  feast  days  it  is  a scene  of  great 
revelry.  Like  all  towns  of  the  plateau,  it  has  scanty  vegetation,  and  the  people  supply  all 
the  brightness  there  is  in  the  landscape.  Photography  is  inadequate  to  give  a correct 
picture  of  these  gorgeous  spectacles,  which  depend  so  much  on  the  “color  scheme”  for 
their  effectiveness.  The  town  of  San  Jose  is  lighted  by  electricity  and  has  several  modern 
improvements.  This  mine  has  always  produced  silver,  and  is  still  worked  on  a small  scale 
for  that  metal,  though  the  mining  of  tin  is  usurping  the  silver  industry  here  as  elsewhere. 
Modern  machinery  is  used  in  the  mine,  which  has  twin  vertical  shafts  of  nine  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  in  depth,  that  are  worked  from  the  surface  by  a steam  engine  of  two  cylinders. 
The  principal  square  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  working  region  of  the  mine,  and  is 
one  thousand  feet  deep.  It  is  served  by  a Robey  engine  of  forty  horse  power.  The 
socavon,  or  entering  passage,  which  is  three  hundred  feet  long,  with  walls  and  roof  of 
hewn  stone,  is  without  a rival  of  its  kind  in  South  America.  The  equipment  for  this  mine 
is  said  to  have  cost  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  bolivianos.  Machinery  for  the  treat- 
ment of  tin  ores  has  been  set  up  in  the  ingenios,  and  in  1902  the  new  Wetherill  machine 
was  adopted  for  the  electro-magnetic  treatment  of  ores.  The  mine  yields  about  fifty-five 
thousand  dollars  monthly  in  silver  and  tin,  the  ores  being  shipped  over  the  private  railway 
of  the  owners  to  the  ingenio,  where  the  silver  ore  is  treated  by  lixiviation,  and  the  tin  ore 
by  concentration  and  smelting.  About  one  thousand  workmen  are  employed  in  the  San 
Jose  mine,  those  above  ground  working  the  customary  ten  hours  a day,  and  those  inside 
the  mine  eight  hours  a day.  The  mine  is  provided  with  water  brought  in  pipes  from  a 
stream  twelve  miles  away.  The  water  taken  out  of  the  mine  is  deposited  in  tanks  to  be 
used  in  the  concentration  of  the  tin  ores. 

The  mines  of  Antequera,  as  well  as  that  of  San  Jose,  are  still  worked  for  silver,  though 
the  principal  attention  is  given  to  tin  mining.  Antequera  was  famous  during  the  colonial 
period  for  rich  lodes  of  silver,  and  they  have  yielded  millions  of  dollars  of  this  precious 


ORURO  AND  ITS  PROSPEROUS  MINES 


369 


metal  under  the  republic,  though  now  they  are  exploited  chietly  for  tin.  Several  large 
companies  are  engaged  in  developing  the  mines,  most  of  which  are  fitted  up  with  modern 
improvements,  the  ingenios  being  equipped  with  the  best  machinery  for  the  elaboration  of 
the  ores.  All  the  Antequera  mines  are  located  in  the  vicinity  of  Poopo,  on  the  Antofagasta 
and  Oruro  Railway,  where  there  are  several  large  ingenios.  Poopo  is  a thriving  little  town 
of  three  thousand  inhabitants,  with  considerable  commercial  movement,  being  the  nearest 
railroad  centre  for  a large  territory.  The  extent  and  importance  of  the  mining  industry  in 
this  section  is  illustrated  by  the  fact  that  one  company  is  under  contract  to  deliver  two 
thousand  quintals,  about  two  hundred  thousand  pounds,  of  metal  daily  to  the  railroad,  to 


SAN  JOSE,  ORURO. 


be  carried  to  the  ingenio  of  Bella  Vista,  in  consideration  of  which  the  railway  has  extended 
its  line  to  this  establishment,  passing  through  Antequera. 

Huanuni  is  said  to  contain  the  richest  tin  mines  in  the  department  of  Oruro.  It  is 
situated  fifteen  miles  from  the  station  of  Machacamarca,  on  the  Antofagasta  and  Oruro 
Railway,  and  can  be  reached  by  diligence,  as  there  is  a good  coach  road.  The  beautiful 
Cerro  of  Pozocani,  in  which  the  mines  of  Huanuni  are  located,  is  conical  in  form,  not  unlike 
the  noble  Potosl,  and  rises  to  a height  of  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  neighboring  qnebrada. 
It  is  crossed  by  innumerable  lodes  and  veins,  which  have  been  worked  on  a large  scale  and 
are  still  yielding  enormous  riches.  The  Cataricagua  vein,  now  under  exploitation,  produced 
one  thousand  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  tons  of  bar  tin,  of  two  thousand  two  hundred 
and  forty  pounds  per  ton,  in  190^,  the  value  of  bar  tin  being  about  one  hundred  pounds 


370 


BOLiyiA 


sterling  per  ton,  though  the  market  price  varies,  sometimes  reaching  one  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  sterling  per  ton.  The  Cataricagua  vein  varies  in  width  from  two  to  eight  feet,  and 


MINERS'  HOLIDAY  AT  SAN  JOSE  ORLIRO. 


the  quality  of  tin  is  uniformly  good,  selected  ore  containing  fifty  per  cent  oxide,  while  the 
poorest  quality  yields  twenty  per  cent.  The  washings  which  remain  after  the  ores  have 
been  treated  are  put  through  a second  process,  and  are  found  to  contain  about  five  per  cent 
oxides.  In  some  instances,  selected  ore  yields  as  much  as  sixty-five  per  cent  tin,  without 
concentration,  and  the  washings  yield  fifteen  per  cent.  The  company  which  is  operating 
this  mine  has  ten  crushers  and  several  autom.atic  strainers  and  rotatory  tables  for  the 
concentration  of  the  ores  by  the  Cornish  system. 

The  treatment  of  nearly  all  tin  ores  in  Bolivia  is  limited  to  grinding  and  concentration, 
the  product  being  exported  in  the  form  of  sand  IkiiTilla,  containing  an  average  of  sixty-four 
per  cent  of  metallic  tin,  or,  as  in  the  case  of  some  of  the  Potosi  mines  previously  mentioned, 
in  the  form  of  bars.  The  mines  of  Negro  Pabellon,  Morococala,  and  Vilacollo  form  a group 
about  ten  miles  north  of  Huanuni,  in  the  vicinity  of  Paria.  Negro  Pabellon  is  especially 
noted  for  the  superior  quality  of  its  tin  and  for  the  facility  with  which  the  ores  are  treated. 
The  principal  lode  is  about  three  feet  in  width,  and  is  crossed  by  several  smaller  veins,  rich 


ORURO  AND  ITS  MINES 


37* 


pockets  of  the  valuable  metal  being  found  at  the  various  points  of  intersection.  The  bairilhis 
obtained  from  the  concentration  of  these  ores  contain  more  than  seventy  per  cent  tin.  In 
the  Morococala  mine,  the  ores  yield  a good  grade  of  tin,  the  principal  lode  measuring  in 
some  places  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  in  width,  and  containing  very  rich  oxides.  Vilacollo 
is  situated  a short  distance  from  Morococala,  in  a cerro  of  the  same  name.  It  was  formerly 
a rich  silver  mine,  and  has  produced  great  quantities  of  both  silver  and  tin.  Though  the 
lodes  contain  continuous  veins  of  hard  tin  ore  of  different  widths  up  to  two  feet,  and,  owing 
to  the  extreme  hardness,  difficulties  are  encountered  in  extracting  this  metal,  yet,  on  the 
other  hand,  veins  are  met  with  which  contain  kidneys  and  grains  interposed,  and  these  are 
worked  with  profit,  while  the  tin  pyrites  are  treated  for  the  extraction  of  the  metal  by  first 
being  calcined  and  then  crushed  and  put  through  the  concentration  process.  About  ten 
miles  south  of  Huanuni,  the  tin  mines  of  Challa-Apacheta  are  notable  for  the  great  width  of 
the  principal  lode,  which  measures  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  places,  though  the  ore 
is  not  so  rich  as  in  thinner  veins,  owing  to  the  mixture  of  gravel  and  clay. 

Berenguela,  which  is  situated  about  fifty  miles  east  of  Oruro  on  the  heights  to  the  south 
of  the  Quebrada  de  Arque,  is  said  by  some  authorities  to  possess  a quality  of  tin  not  excelled 
by  any  other  mines  in  Bolivia.  Although  it  belongs  to  the  province  of  Cochabamba,  all  tlie 
metal  is  exported  through  Oruro,  the  mines  being  located  about  midway  between  the  two 


MINE  OF  SAN  JOSE  ORURO. 


departmental  capitals.  The  Spaniards  worked  the  mines  for  silver,  but  it  is  only  within  a 
few  years  that  its  rich  tin  mines  have  been  exploited  to  any  extent,  the  silver  veins  of  this 


372 


BOLIVIA 


Cerro  being  distinct  from  those  which  contain  tin  in  abundance.  The  hydraulic  machinery 
used  in  operating  the  mines  is  established  about  three-quarters  of  a mile  away  where  an 
abundant  water  supply  is  obtained.  There  is  a town  called  Berenguela  in  the  province  of 
Pacajes,  in  the  department  of  La  Paz,  near  the  border  of  Oruro,  where  alabaster  is  found, 
and  these  places  are  frequently  confounded  with  each  other. 

Every  province  of  the  department  of  Oruro  is  rich  in  mineral  products.  The  Cercado, 
of  which  the  city  of  Oruro  is  the  capital,  is  particularly  famous  as  the  district  in  which  the 
rich  tin  mines  of  Huanuni  are  located,  though  the  adjoining  province  of  Poopo  also  claims 
distinction  for  the  wealth  it  represents  in  the  Antequera  and  other  mines.  Not  only  silver 
and  tin,  but  many  other  valuable  minerals  are  found  in  large  quantities  in  this  department. 
Iron,  lead,  manganese,  bismuth,  and  antimony  have  been  discovered  in  the  provinces  of 
Cercado  and  Poopo,  awaiting  only  the  necessary  capital  for  their  exploitation  on  a large 
scale.  Antimony  is  exported  in  ores  containing  from  fifty  per  cent  to  sixty-four  per  cent  of 
the  metal.  The  province  of  Abaroa,  named  in  honor  of  one  of  Bolivia’s  heroes  in  the  War 
of  the  Pacific,  covers  a territory  rich  in  minerals,  of  which  Challapata  is  the  thriving  capital. 
There  are  two  towns  called  Challapata,  within  a mile  of  each  other,  the  old  city  being  the 
more  picturesque,  though  of  less  importance  commercially.  It  is  noted  for  its  beautiful  old 
church,  which  was  erected  during  the  colonial  period,  and  which  is  frequently  visited  by 
travellers  because  of  the  rich  ornaments  in  silver  that  it  contains.  The  modern  town  of 
Challapata  is  of  recent  existence,  having  been  founded  only  in  1893,  as  a station  on  the  line 
of  the  recently  constructed  Antofagasta  and  Oruro  Railway.  It  is  a town  of  about  two 
thousand  five  hundred  inhabitants,  many  of  them  foreigners,  who  are  engaged  in  mining 
enterprises.  The  second  city  in  the  department  in  size,  it  is  important  as  a railroad  town 
and  the  terminus  of  the  coach  roads  from  Potosl  and  Sucre.  Among  other  towns  of  this 
department,  the  historic  Salinas  de  Garci-Mendoza  is  deserving  of  special  mention,  as  it  was 
once  the  centre  of  rich  silver  mines,  which  yielded  great  fortunes  during  the  colonial  period. 
It  is  a small  town  of  less  than  two  thousand  inhabitants,  but  preserves  many  social  features 
of  its  more  prosperous  past,  and  its  people  are  noted  for  their  hospitality. 

The  province  of  Carangas  is  rich  in  minerals,  and  has  other  industries  which  have  been 
developed  on  a small  scale.  The  scrranici  of  Carangas  was  once  the  centre  of  the  silver- 
mining industry  in  this  part  of  the  plateau,  but  owing  to  the  inundation  of  the  mines,  and  lack 
of  proper  machinery  with  which  to  put  them  again  in  working  order,  they  remained  abandoned 
until  purchased  by  a company  recently  established,  which,  it  is  said,  possesses  sufficient  cap- 
ital to  develop  their  full  productiveness.  Under  the  viceroyalty  the  town  of  Carangas  was 
rich  and  prosperous  and  had  its  grand  fiestas  as  did  the  other  “silver  cities’’  of  Alto  Peru; 
in  its  deserted  streets  are  still  to  be  seen  vestiges  of  the  opulence  of  former  days,  arches, 
carved  doorways,  and  churches.  The  province  has  a small  population  now,  less  than  twenty 
thousand  people  altogether,  the  greater  number  being  Indians,  who  are  engaged  in  tending 
flocks  of  sheep,  goats,  and  alpacas,  or  in  hunting  the  vicuna  and  the  chinchilla.  Vegetation 
is  scanty,  though  the  Indian  raises  potatoes,  quinoa,  and  barley  sufficient  for  his  own  use. 


ORURO  AND  ITS  PROSPEROUS  MINES 


373 


In  the  southwestern  district  of  the  department  of  Oruro,  in  the  province  of  Carangas, 
are  found  large  deposits  of  borax,  those  of  Chilcaya  covering  an  area  of  about  thirty  thousand 
acres.  The  borax  of  Chilcaya  is  considered  equal  to  the  best  produced  anywhere  in  the 
world.  It  is  exported  through  the  port  of  Arica,  a little  more  than  a hundred  miles  distant. 
The  saline  deposits  found  in  the  department  of  Oruro,  especially  in  the  region  of  Chilcaya 
and  Coipasa,  are  said  to  mark  the  southern  limit  of  the  great  lake  which  scientists  claim 
once  covered  the  plateau  for  an  area  of  over  forty  thousand  square  miles,  and  constituted 
the  chief  reservoir  of  the  Amazon.  The  lake  Chilcaya  is  entirely  within  the  limits  of  this 
department,  Coipasa  marking  the  boundary  between  Oruro  and  Potosi.  The  boracic  capa. 


SILVER  AND  TIN  SMELTING  WORKS.  POOPO. 


or  layer,  which  is  found  on  this  lake  is  a foot  thick,  more  or  less,  of  a very  high  grade,  and 
the  production  per  acre  is  estimated  at  one  thousand  five  hundred  tons.  Though  Chilcaya 
is  surrounded  by  cerros,  the  climate  is  cold  and  windy,  and  the  aspect  is  bleak  and  dreary  in 
the  extreme,  as  the  very  nature  of  the  soil  in  this  region  makes  it  impossible  for  anything, 
even  puna  grass,  to  fourish. 

No  city  in  Bolivia  looks  out  upon  a more  favorable  prospect  than  Oruro,  which  is 
entering  on  a new  era  of  prosperity,  signalized  by  the  inauguration  of  the  railway  system, 
which  is  to  branch  out  from  this  point  in  all  directions,  and  by  the  not  less  interesting  cere- 
monies which  a few  months  ago  marked  the  establishment  of  new  educational  institutions 
of  the  greatest  importance. 


374 


BOLIVIA 


The  citizens  of  Oruro,  foreign  as  well  as  Bolivian,  are  enthusiastic  in  their  efforts  to 
promote  the  interests  of  the  municipality,  and  the  favorable  attitude  of  the  Bolivians  toward 
foreign  residents  is  exemplified  by  the  fact  that  a foreigner,  Mr.  John  B.  Minchin,  is  president 
of  the  Municipal  Council.  Mr.  Minchin  has  lived  many  years  in  Oruro,  and  is  firmly  con- 
vinced of  the  bright  promise  of  the  future  already  illuminating  his  adopted  country.  He  has 
made  a careful  study  of  the  country  under  various  aspects,  and  his  authority  on  many 
subjects,  particularly  mining,  is  accepted  as  the  best  known.  Under  his  administration,  the 
city  of  Oruro  is  undergoing  many  important  improvements.  Another  foreigner,  who  has 
lived  in  Oruro  so  many  years  that  he  is  known  throughout  the  department  as  “ Don  Andres,” 
is  Mr.  Andrew  Penny,  who  has  contributed  a great  deal  toward  the  development  of  the 
mining  industry  in  this  department.  He  is  identified  with  the  success  of  the  San  Jose, 
Huanuni,  and  other  mines,  and  is  highly  esteemed  by  all  who  know  him  for  his  sterling 
character  and  kindness  of  heart. 

The  chief  authority  in  the  department  is  the  prefect,  to  whose  initiative  is  due  the  prog- 
ress of  the  department  in  general.  Dr.  Victor  Sanjines,  the  present  prefect,  who  succeeded 
Sehor  Dr.  Andres  Munoz  a few  months  ago,  is  a distinguished  leader  in  the  politics  of  his 
country,  and  has  given  proofs  of  exceptional  administrative  ability  in  various  official  posts. 
Under  his  direction,  the  roads  and  other  public  works  are  receiving  special  attention,  and  the 
city,  as  well  as  the  department,  is  benefiting  by  many  improvements  in  the  condition  of 
the  highways.  With  the  conclusion  of  the  new  railway  to  La  Paz,  Oruro  will  be  within  a 
few  hours’  distance  of  that  city,  and  when  the  line  to  Arica  is  put  in  operation  it  will  be 
possible  to  leave  Oruro  at  night  and  arrive  at  the  seaport  next  morning.  Oruro  will  no 
longer  be  only  the  terminus  of  a railway,  but  the  centre  from  which  trains  will  run  in  many 
directions. 


BERENGUEl.A  TIN  MINES. 


GOLD  WASHING  AT  CHUQUIAGUILLO,  NEAR  LA  PAZ. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


GOLD  MINING  IN  BOLIVIA— TUPIZA  AND  ITS  MINES— BISMUTH 


^OLD  mining  in  Bolivia  has  not  attracted  so 
much  attention  in  recent  years  as  its  im- 
portance merits,  thougli  there  was  a time  when 
the  fame  of  this  country  as  a gold  producer  nearly 
eclipsed  the  universal  renown  of  its  vast  wealth 
of  silver.  In  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  cen- 
turies, which  marked  only  the  beginning  of  their 
development,  the  mines  of  Alto  Peru  yielded 
in  gold,  according  to  the  authority  of  Humboldt, 
about  two  billion  dollars,  and  in  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury the  mine  of  Chuquiaguillo  alone  produced 
more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  million 
dollars  in  gold.  It  is  a remarkable  fact  that  this 
mine  has  not  once  failed  to  yield  large  quantities 
of  gold  annually,  ever  since  its  discovery. 

The  history  of  the  Chuquiaguillo  mine  is  as 
old  as  that  of  the  Incas,  who  received  tribute 
from  their  Collasuyo  subjects  in  the  gold  nuggets 
of  this  wonderful  stream.  Like  the  Chuquiapu, 
DISTANT  GLIMPSE  OF  TUPIZA,  THROUGH  A TUNNEL.  of  which  it  is  a siuall  tiibutary,  the  Chuquiaguillo 

received  its  name  from  the  Indians,  in  whose 
language  the  word  means  “ heir  of  gold.”  The  mine  is  situated  in  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Poto-Poto,  about  a league  distant  from  La  Paz,  where  the  Spaniards  found  the  Indians 
engaged  in  washing  gold  at  the  time  of  the  invasion.  Many  thousands  of  Indians  worked 
at  the  task  of  gathering  gold  for  the  Inca,  and  the  settlement  in  which  they  lived  was  the 
Chuquiapu  on  the  site  of  which  the  Spaniards  founded  the  present  city  of  La  Paz. 


377 


BOLiyiA 


378 


The  conqueror  himself,  Don  Francisco  Pizarro,  was  the  first  dimio,  or  owner,  of  the 
mine  of  Chuquiaguillo  after  the  fall  of  the  Inca  empire.  History  does  not  record  the  amount 


RICH  GOLD  MINING  REGION  OF  CHUQUIAGUILLO,  NEAR  LA  PAZ. 


taken  out  of  the  mine  while  under  the  exploitation  of  Pizarro’s  agents:  but  during  the 
colonial  period  huge  nuggets  were  frequently  found,  one  of  these  treasures,  which  was  sent 
to  the  Museum  of  Madrid  in  1718,  weighing  forty-seven  pounds  and  eight  ounces.  The 
extraordinary  feature  of  this  mine  is  that  it  appears  inexhaustible,  great  nuggets,  or  pepitas, 
being  continually  found.  After  the  Spaniards  were  expelled  from  the  country,  Chuquiaguillo 
passed  into  the  hands  of  various  diniios,  all  of  whom  were  made  rich  by  its  gold.  One  of 
these  proprietors  found  a nugget  of  twenty-two  pounds  in  weight. 

In  1901  the  Chuquiaguillo  valley,  with  its  rich  gold  mine,  became  the  property  of  a 
German  company;  and  under  the  able  administration  of  the  present  director,  Mr.  Joseph 
Antonio  Sedelmayr,  the  production  has  been  increased  greatly  beyond  what  it  was  a few 
years  ago.  The  latest  improvements  in  machinery  and  other  working  apparatus  have  been 
made,  the  modern  installations  used  in  California  placer  mines  being  adopted,  with  some 
monitors  which  give  the  very  best  results.  The  earth  is  very  rich  in  metal,  a cubic  metre 
yielding  thirty-five  cents  gold.  The  quantity  of  gravel  appears  inexhaustible,  as  the  cerros 


GOLD  MINING  IN  BOLIl/IA 


379 


are  immense.  Water  is  brought  from  the  neighboring  snow  mountains,  and  there  is  sufficient 
incline  to  the  valley  to  carry  off  the  tailings.  With  other  machinery  which  it  is  the  purpose 
of  the  company  to  add  to  that  already  in  use,  the  output  of  Chuquiaguillo  may  be  enor- 
mously increased.  So  recently  as  March  22,  190^,  a gold  and  quartz  nugget  weighing 
fifty-two  ounces,  of  which  forty-five  ounces  were  pure  gold,  was  taken  from  the  mine,  this 
handsome  specimen  being  now  in  the  possession  of  Messrs.  Speyer  and  Company,  of  New 
York.  The  annual  production  of  the  mine  since  1900  has  been  about  an  average  of  sixty 
kilogrammes,  though  the  increase  has  been  notable  since  1902.  The  value  of  the  gold 
taken  out  amounts  to  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  bolivianos  annually.  The  cerros  are  so 
rich  in  metal,  that  the  gravel  which  is  washed  down  from  their  sides  yields  thirty-five 
cents  worth  of  gold  per  cubic  metre,  and  nuggets  as  large  as  almonds  are  not  rare.  The 
process  of  bringing  the  gold-bearing  gravel  down  to  the  river  is  by  means  of  a hose  which 
ejects  a powerful  stream  that  when  turned  on  the  cenv  dislodges  the  earth,  bringing 


ADMINISTRATION  HOUSE,  CHUQUIAGUILLO  MINES,  NEAR  LA  PAZ, 


the  rich  pebbles  down  to  the  base.  In  a beautiful  locality,  overlooking  the  valley,  the 
administration  house  of  the  company  is  situated,  and  here  the  director  receives  his  guests. 


380 


BOLIVIA 


entertaining  them  with  the  most  charming  hospitality.  No  paseo  is  more  popular  than  a 
day’s  outing  at  Chuquiaguillo,  which  is  reached  after  a short  horseback  ride  from  La  Paz 
through  one  of  the  prettiest  of  valleys,  presenting  many  picturesque  scenes  along  the 
route,  and  ending  at  the  administration  mansion.  Every  foreigner  who  visits  La  Paz  and 
enjoys  the  honor  of  being  a guest  of  the  courtly  diieno  of  Chuquiaguillo  remembers  it  as  a 
distinguished  occasion. 

There  are  other  rich  placer  gold  mines  besides  Chuquiaguillo  in  the  department  of  La  Paz 
which  have  yielded  enormous  treasure.  As  stated  elsewhere,  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
gold-bearing  regions  of  Bolivia  is  in  the  province  of  Larecaja,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Sorata, 
where  the  river  Tipuani,  which  flows  down  from  the  snow-covered  peak,  contains  large 
quantities  of  the  precious  metal.  The  gravel  deposits  in  this  river  are  so  great  that  at  a 
depth  of  one  hundred  feet  no  rock  bottom  is  found,  the  production  of  gold  increasing  with 
the  depth  of  tlie  gravel.  Tipuani  gold  is  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-three  and  one-half 
carats  fine,  and  so  abundant  that  the  owners  of  the  richest  mine  of  this  region,  Sehores 
Villamil,  obtained  during  the  fifty  years  from  1818  to  1868  one  hundred  and  fifty-one 
thousand  ounces  of  gold.  Much  of  this  gold  comes  in  flat  grains  of  the  size  of  a melon 
seed,  and  it  is  always  of  high  standard.  Not  only  from  the  heights  of  the  mountain  Sorata, 
or  Illampu,  but  from  the  other  cerros  of  the  chain  which  joins  it  to  Illimani  further  south, 
innumerable  streams  flow  into  the  valleys  of  the  Yungas  of  La  Paz  which  carry  gold  in  the 
gravel  that  is  found  in  their  currents.  Cajones,  in  the  Yungas,  is  one  of  the  richest  gold 
streams.  It  is  a singular  fact  that  while  quartz  lodes  have  been  discovered  in  different 
places  about  the  headwaters  of  the  ravines  through  which  the  gold-bearing  rivers  flow,  they 
do  not  appear  to  correspond  at  all  in  richness  to  the  deposits  lower  down.  The  rich  placer 
mines  of  Yani  and  Tacacoma  are  in  the  same  province  as  those  of  Tipuani. 

In  the  province  of  Caupolican,  the  river  Suches  is  noted  for  the  abundance  and  quality 
of  gold  found  in  its  sand  and  gravel,  and  this  district  presents  the  advantage  of  being  within 
convenient  distance  of  the  shipping  ports,  as  the  town  of  Suches,  the  chief  centre  of  the 
mining  in  this  river,  is  situated  only  forty  miles  from  the  port  of  Lake  Titicaca,  and  two 
hundred  miles  from  La  Paz.  A great  many  rich  placer  mines  have  remained  unexploited 
because  of  their  inaccessibility.  All  around  La  Paz  gold  is  continually  being  discovered, 
nearly  every  river  having  some  gold-bearing  gravel  in  its  course.  The  Cerro  Illimani  contains 
gold  in  abundance,  and  it  is  related  that  in  the  year  1681,  a lightning  stroke  detached  a huge 
rock  from  the  side  of  the  mountain  which  was  found  to  be  enormously  rich  in  the  precious 
metal.  All  the  streams  that  flow  from  Illimani  contain  gold,  such  as  the  Palca,  Calacoto, 
Chungamayo,  and  others.  The  gold  mines  of  Vila-haque,  near  La  Paz,  were  famous  in  the 
times  of  the  Incas,  and  are  worked  to-day. 

Gold  has  been  taken  from  the  streams  of  Loayza  province  ever  since  colonial  times, 
and  tlie  gold  district  of  Araca,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Tres  Cruces  Range,  is  said 
by  mining  engineers  to  be  one  of  the  richest  in  Bolivia,  lack  of  capital  having  prevented 
its  full  development  in  recent  years.  Under  Spanish  rule  the  celebrated  gold  mine 


GOLD  MINING  IN  BOLIVIA 


381 


of  San  Francisco,  which  belonged  to  a fabulously  rich  Spaniard,  named  Don  Diego  de  Baena, 
brought  an  income  of  two  million  dollars  gold,  which  the  chronicle  says  the  worthy  miner 
spent  to  build  the  magnificent  church  of  San  Francisco  in  La  Paz  and  the  Cathedral  in  Oruro. 
He  suspended  the  working  of  the  San  Francisco  mine  because  of  inundations.  A mining 
expert,  reporting  on  this  district,  says:  “Many  millions  of  dollars  have  been  taken  out  of  the 
gold  mines  of  Araca,  and  much  more  could  be  obtained  if  capital  were  forthcoming  for  their 
exploitation.”  The  quartz  vein  of  the  Araca  mines  is  very  wide,  the  standard  varying 
between  five  and  twelve  grains  per  ton  of  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  forty  pounds 
when  treated  by  amalgamation,  which,  by  the  way,  is  an  unsatisfactory  method,  as  about 


MOUNTAIN  OF  CHOROLQUE,  SITE  OF  THE  HIGHEST  TIN  AND  BISMUTH  MINES  IN  THE  WORLD. 


thirty  per  cent  of  the  gold  is  lost  owing  to  the  extreme  fineness  of  the  gold  particles.  A 
difficulty  encountered  in  the  exploitation  of  many  of  these  mines  is  that  of  securing  modern 
machinery  for  the  treatment  of  the  gold  so  that  every  unnecessary  waste  may  be  avoided. 
The  Araca  district  has  not  been  fully  surveyed,  though  mining  authorities  say  that  what  is 
known  as  the  Rosario  belt  contains  a million  cubic  metres  of  gold  quartz,  and  it  is  estimated 
that  more  than  half  a million  tons  could  be  worked  with  rich  results.  In  Inquisivi,  also, 
there  are  gold  mines  of  great  promise. 

The  department  of  Cochabamba,  which  is  rich  in  products  of  every  description,  can 
boast  of  some  of  the  most  valuable  gold  mines  of  Bolivia.  Choquecamata,  situated  about 


^82 


BOLIVIA 


seventy-five  miles  from  the  capital  city  of  the  department  in  the  serranLi  of  Tetillas,  is  the 
centre  of  an  extensive  mining  region.  The  central  part  of  the  serrania  consists  of  granite 


QUECHISLA.  MINING  ESTABLISHMENT  OF  ARAMAYO,  FRANCKE  AND  COMPANY,  NEAR  TUPIZA. 


and  quartz,  the  Choquecamata  River  containing  gold-bearing  gravel  from  the  point  of  its 
junction  with  the  Potrero,  at  Encahada,  over  a distance  of  six  miles  down  its  course.  It  is 
an  excellent  mining  region,  the  conditions  being  favorable  for  its  development  on  a large 
scale  by  the  hydraulic  system.  At  their  confluence  the  two  rivers  have  made  a new  channel 
which  cuts  across  the  former  channel  of  the  Choquecamata,  leaving  a wide  dry  space,  rich 
in  gold-bearing  gravel.  It  was  here  the  mines  were  first  discovered  and  worked  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1740,  and  from  this  marvellously  rich  deposit,  covering  little  more  than  half  a 
league,  which  was  called  the  Angostura,  meaning  “ narrows,”  gold  was  taken  out  to  the  value 
of  more  than  forty  million  dollars.  It  is  located  at  an  altitude  of  about  twelve  thousand  feet 
above  sea  level  in  one  of  the  many  picturesque  quebmdas  of  the  province  of  Ayopaya,  and 
was  apparently  known  to  the  primitive  inhabitants  as  a gold-bearing  district,  the  name 
Choquecamata  being  Aymara  and  signifying  “breeding  place  of  gold.” 

Near  the  site  of  the  old  missions  which  the  Jesuits  founded  during  the  colonial  period 
in  the  province  of  Chiquitos,  now  forming  part  of  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz,  rich  gold 
mines  were  discovered  centuries  ago.  The  semniia  of  San  Simon  yielded  handsome  returns 
for  the  labor  of  the  Indians  under  the  direction  of  their  Spanish  masters.  Within  recent 
years  other  valuable  mines  have  been  found  in  this  province,  which  is  only  partially  settled 
and  contains  vast  stretches  of  territory,  the  natural  resources  of  which  are  practically 


GOLD  MINING  IN  BOUNIN 


383 


unknown.  The  gold  mines  of  Santa  Rosa,  which  lie  along  the  route  of  the  new  railway  to  be 
built  from  Santa  Cruz  to  the  Beni,  were  famous  during  the  past  century  for  their  abundance, 
having  yielded  two  thousand  five  hundred  pounds’  weight  of  gold  between  the  years  1847 
and  1877.  The  few  travellers  who  have  journeyed  through  this  region  pronounce  it  one  of 
the  richest  in  the  whole  of  Bolivia,  and  it  possesses  the  special  advantage  of  having  as  fine 
a climate  as  any  country  in  the  world,  the  four  seasons  being  distinctly  marked,  though  in  a 
moderate  degree.  Gold  is  found  in  the  Beni  and  in  the  Territorio  de  Colonias,  but  it  will  hardly 
be  developed  to  any  great  extent  until  the  transportation  facilities  in  this  part  of  Bolivia  are 
improved.  There  is  plenty  of  gold  in  the  upper  streams  of  the  Acre,  Madre  de  Dios,  Orton, 
and  the  Beni,  as  well  as  in  those  of  the  Mamore  and  other  tributaries  of  the  Guapore  or  Itenez. 

From  central  Bolivia  southward  a gold-producing  region  extends  in  a wide  strip  from 
Cochabamba  to  the  border  of  Argentina.  Chuquisaca  is  said  to  have  been  at  one  time  a 
great  mining  centre,  and,  according  to  the  historian  Calancha,  the  name  itself  signifies  “rock 
of  gold.”  The  Inca’s  subjects  knew  of  the  existence  of  gold  in  all  these  provinces,  and  the 
Spaniards  merely  followed  their  guidance  in  searching  for  the  precious  metal.  Whenever  it 
was  possible,  the  Indian  deceived  his  new  masters  and  kept  secret  his  knowledge  of  the 


DREDGE  IN  CONSTRUCTION  AT  SAN  JUAN  DE  ORO  MINES,  TUPIZA. 


locality  of  these  mines.  But  though  many  rich  ccnvs  and  gold-bearing  streams  exist  which 
were  never  known  to  the  Spaniards,  they  took  possession  of  hundreds  of  mines  in  all  parts 
of  the  country  and  worked  them  with  great  profit. 


384 


BOLIVIA 


In  the  department  of  Potosi.the  cerro  of  Poconota  contains  one  of  the  oldest  gold  mines 
in  the  country.  It  is  situated  in  the  province  of  North  Chichas,  on  the  route  from  Potosi  to 
Tupiza,  and  will  be  on  the  line  of  the  railroad  which  is  being  built  from  Potosi  to  the 
Argentine  border.  The  cerro  shows  evidence  of  having  been  worked  by  the  Spaniards  on  a 
very  large  scale  and  with  great  success,  as  there  are  still  vestiges  of  elaborate  and  expensive 
apparatus,  which  could  only  have  been  afforded  by  enormous  returns  from  the  exploitation 
of  the  mines.  The  gold  of  Poconota  shows  a standard  of  ten  grammes  per  hundred  pounds. 
The  lode  extends  for  a distance  of  two  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  and  is  forty  inches 
in  width  and  nearly  three  hundred  feet  in  depth.  It  represents  about  half  a million  tons 
of  ore,  which  will  produce,  at  a conservative  estimate,  several  tons  of  fine  gold.  In  the 
provinces  of  Linares,  Chayanta,  and  Lipez  gold  is  found  in  abundance,  the  Indians  having 
exploited  mines  in  all  the  principal  scrranias  and  streams  of  these  districts.  They  still  wash 
gold  from  the  streams  of  Caiza,  Yura,  and  San  Juan.  In  the  province  of  Lipez  gold  quartz 
is  found  in  the  cerros  of  Colcha,  one  of  the  socavones  being  so  rich  that  the  Indians  call  it 
ahitans,  which  means  “ storehouse  of  gold.”  The  Yura  River,  which  flows  through  the 
province  of  Porco  to  join  the  Rio  Blanco,  San  Juan,  and  other  tributaries  of  the  Pilcomayo, 
contains  large  quantities  of  auriferous  gravel ; and  in  the  cerros  of  Yura,  a canton  of  Porco, 
immense  gold  veins  have  been  discovered  which  still  await  exploitation.  In  Suipacha,  on 
the  border  of  Argentina,  a few  miles  south  of  Tupiza,  gold  is  found  in  a vein  forty  miles 
long  and  seven  feet  wide,  the  precious  metal  being  plainly  visible  in  the  quartz.  Portugalete, 
midway  between  Tupiza  and  the  famous  Cerro  Chorolque,  is  the  centre  of  a region  of  gold 
mines  which  extend  in  all  directions.  All  the  qitehradas  of  this  district  contain  gold,  which 
has  always  been  worked  in  a primitive  way  by  the  Indians,  and  still  provides  their  chief 
means  of  subsistence.  The  gold-mining  district  of  Santa  Catalina  extends  along  the  course 
of  the  river  San  Juan  from  its  source  in  the  Cordillera  Real  as  far  as  the  Suipacha  mines, 
which  are  an  extension  of  the  Santa  Catalina  veins.  It  includes  the  quartz  and  placer  mines 
of  Esmoraca,  Estarca,  Chilco,  and  other  rich  valleys,  which,  like  Portugalete,  have  for  centuries 
been  worked  by  Indians.  Foreign  enterprise  is  now  being  attracted  to  these  rich  deposits. 

Tupiza  is  one  of  the  most  important  mineral  centres  of  Bolivia,  all  the  gold-producing 
districts  of  the  province  of  South  Chichas,  of  which  Tupiza  is  the  capital,  being  tributary  to 
it,  while  it  is  further  famous  as  the  centre  of  the  finest  bismuth  mines  in  the  world.  The 
various  companies  engaged  in  exploiting  mines  of  gold,  silver,  tin,  wolfram,  antimony,  lead, 
zinc,  and  bismuth,  which  are  found  in  this  locality,  have  their  headquarters  in  the  city  of 
Tupiza.  Minerals  and  precious  stones,  especially  emeralds,  are  brought  here  for  sale  by 
the  Indians,  who  find  them  in  the  various  mines  of  the  province.  Portugalete,  San  Vicente, 
Lipez,  Santo  Domingo,  Chocoma,  Esmoraca,  San  Juan  de  Oro,  Tatasi,  and  the  magnificent 
Chorolque  are  among  the  most  important  mining  centres. 

The  mine  of  San  Juan  de  Oro  is  one  of  the  very  few  in  the  province  of  South 
Chichas  which  are  being  exploited  on  a large  scale  and  with  the  use  of  modern  machinery. 
In  190^  a company  was  formed  in  Buenos  Aires  for  the  purpose  of  developing  the  San  Juan 


GOLD  MINING  IN  BOLINIA 


38s 

de  Oro  mine  to  its  full  capacity;  a capital  of  about  half  a million  dollars  in  gold  was 
invested  in  the  enterprise,  and  a powerful  dredge  was  put  in  the  river  as  one  of  the  initial 
steps  of  the  work.  Several  dredges  are  now  in  operation,  and  the  returns  are  most  satis- 
factory, showing  an  average  of  fifty  cents’  worth  of  gold  per  cubic  metre.  The  opinion  is 
generally  expressed  by  experts  in  mining  industries  that  there  is  a great  future  in  store  for 
Bolivian  gold  mines,  not  only  in  this  province,  but  throughout  the  entire  country.  The 
universal  prediction  is  that  the  advent  of  the  railroads  will  bring  new  enterprise  to  the  devel- 
opment of  abandoned  mines  and  lead  to  the  discovery  of  hitherto  unknown  mineral  wealth. 


PICTURESQUE  VIEW  OF  TUPIZA. 


The  mining  industry  of  Tupiza  owes  a great  deal  to  the  enterprise  of  one  of  Bolivia’s 
leading  statesmen,  Sehor  Don  Felix  Avelino  Aramayo,  whose  name  is  identified  not  only 
with  the  progress  of  the  city,  but  of  the  entire  province.  Many  of  the  most  valuable  mines 
are  his  property,  and  it  is  owing  to  his  great  energy  and  enterprise  that  they  have  been  made 
to  yield  an  enormous  fortune.  Bolivia  leads  the  world  in  bismuth,  and  it  is  chiefly  out  of 
Sehor  Aramayo’s  mines  that  the  precious  mineral  is  taken.  The  firm  of  Aramayo,  Francke 
and  Company  bought  the  silver,  tin,  and  bismuth  mines  of  Chorolque  in  1889,  and  in 
addition  to  this  famous  mountain  they  also  control  the  output  of  the  mines  of  Tasna,  a 
mountain  thirty  leagues. from  the  city  of  Tupiza,  which  produces  bismuth,  tin,  wolfram,  and 


386 


BOLIVIA 


other  minerals,  and  they  have  a large  establishment  for  the  refinement  of  ores  at  Quechisla, 
twenty-five  leagues  fromTupiza. 

The  magnificent  cciro  of  Chorolque,  which  towers  above  the  clouds  and  is  visible 
hundreds  of  miles  distant,  where  it  looks  like  a huge  white  pyramid  looming  above  the 
horizon,  is  the  centre  of  the  highest  tin  and  bismuth  mines  in  the  world.  The  mines  are 
worked  at  an  altitude  of  eighteen  thousand  feet.  The  different  lodes  of  tin  are  of  great 
thickness,  and  their  lower  strata  contain  bismuth  in  chlorides  or  sulphides.  Bismuth  is 
sometimes  met  with  also  in  its  native  state,  as  in  Coribiri,  where  it  is  found  in  nuggets 
weighing  six  or  seven  grammes.  The  deposits  of  bismuth  in  the  Chorolque  lode  are  found 
only  on  the  cerro  and  its  slopes.  Rich  bismuth  mines  were  recently  discovered  in  the 
province  of  Inquisivi,  and  this  mineral  is  found  in  some  quantity  wherever  there  are  large 
deposits  of  tin.  The  total  production  of  bismuth  in  Bolivia  averages  from  four  thousand 
to  five  thousand  metric  quintals  annually,  and  its  value  fluctuates  between  fourteen  and 
sixteen  pounds  sterling  per  metric  quintal. 

The  picturesque  little  city  of  Tupiza  has  a population  of  about  three  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  about  sixty  miles  north  of  the  Argentine  boundary  line,  in  the  heart  of  a 
beautiful  country,  diversified  by  mountain,  valley,  and  stream,  and  blessed  by  a climate 
which  in  summer  is  balmy  and  delightful,  and  even  in  winter  is  not  too  cold.  Along  its 
valleys  are  many  prosperous  haciendas  and  picturesque  fincas,  or  country  places,  where 
various  kinds  of  fruits  and  vegetables  are  grown.  Cattle  roam  over  the  lower  mountain 
slopes,  and  every  condition  is  favorable  for  the  future  development  of  this  locality  as  one  of 
the  richest  in  pastoral  and  agricultural  possibilities  as  well  as  mineral  wealth.  Nowhere  are 
valleys  more  picturesque,  the  skies  bluer,  or  the  fragrance  of  flowers  and  shade  of  trees 
more  attractive  to  the  sight  than  in  this  charming  little  border  city. 


PLAZA  OF  TUPIZA. 


■?.  a*; 


THE  INDIAN  MISSION  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

SANTA  CRUZ,  THE  CENTRE  OF  A RICH  AGRICULTURAL  DISTRICT 

CANTA  CRUZ  DE  LA  SIERRA  is  the  only  Bolivian  city 
of  importance  wliich  is  tropical  in  climate  as  well  as 
locality.  Although  it  is  situated  at  about  the  same  distance 
from  the  equator  as  La  Paz  and  Oruro,  it  bears  little  resem- 
blance to  these  cities  in  natural  scenery,  because  of  the 
great  difference  in  altitude.  Too  distant  from  the  Cor- 
dillera Real  to  be  influenced  by  its  temperature,  and  lying 
in  the  midst  of  a valley  not  more  than  one  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  Santa  Cruz  is  essentially  a 
tropical  city,  though  the  heat  is  never  insupportable,  as 
pleasant  breezes  are  constantly  blowing  from  the  scrranias 
of  Valle  Grande  on  the  west  and  those  of  Chiquitos  on  the 
east.  It  is  a typical  Spanish  city,  with  spacious  plazas, 
shaded  by  wide-branching  trees  and  beautified  by  luxuriant 
gardens.  Its  long  calles  are,  like  those  of  Spanish  cities 
everywhere,  walled  on  each  side  by  solid-looking  houses, 
and  they  present  very  artistic  features  in  their  picturesque  minidorcs  and  quaint,  barred 
windows,  where  a pretty  seuorita  may  sometimes  be  seen  looking  out,  as  a handsome 
Caballero  lingers  near  to  pay  homage  to  the  charm  of  her  “adorable  eyes.”  For  the  Cruceha, 
as  a lady  of  Santa  Cruz  is  called,  is  generally  beautiful,  graceful,  and  of  a frank,  happy 
disposition,  altogether  charming.  The  city  is  not  more  Spanish-looking  than  its  people, 
who  represent  the  pure  Castilian  type,  and  preserve,  with  few  changes,  the  customs  and 
characteristics  of  their  Iberian  ancestors,  proud  of  their  descent  from  the  noblest  families 
of  Spain.  Foreigners  who  have  visited  the  city  of  Santa  Cruz  and  its  neighboring  esfaiicias, 
as  the  large  cattle  ranches  are  called,  invariably  remark  upon  the  Spanish  type  of  the  people, 

and  the  very  slight  evidence  of  an  admixture  of  races  to  be  seen  here.  The  population  of 

389 


COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


BOLIVIA 


^90 

the  city  is  about  nineteen  thousand,  of  which  two  hundred  are  of  foreign  origin,  belonging 
to  German,  Italian,  and  other  nationalities. 

The  city  of  Santa  Cruz  was  founded,  as  elsewhere  stated,  by  Nuflo  de  Chavez,  soon 
after  the  Spanish  conquest,  and  was  later  removed  to  its  present  site  and  given  the  name  of 
Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra.  Everyone  who  is  familiar  with  Bolivian  history  knows  with  what 
courage  and  success  the  Crucenos  sustained  their  part  in  the  struggle  for  independence,  and 
that  the  famous  victory  of  La  Florida,  one  of  the  most  brilliant  of  the  war,  was  due  to  their 
bravery.  The  history  of  the  republic  bears  record  to  the  patriotism  and  genius  of  many 
distinguished  Crucenos  who  have  achieved  national  fame  as  statesmen,  diplomats,  jurists, 
litterateurs,  and  orators.  Don  Santiago  Vaca-Guzman,  a Cruceho,  has  written  gems  of  prose 
and  verse,  and  represented  his  country  abroad  as  minister  plenipotentiary  with  honor  and 
distinction.  Don  Manuel  Ignacio  Salvatierra,  one  of  the  most  illustrious  statesmen  Bolivia 
ever  had,  was  a native  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  loved  the  pretty  city  of  La  Sierra  better  than  any 
other,  though  he  was  received  at  all  the  courts  of  Europe  and  welcomed  in  the  intellectual 
circles  of  its  chief  cities;  he  was  a member  of  the  Cabinet  in  his  own  country  as  minister 
of  finance,  and  was  fiscal  general  of  the  republic.  Don  Rafael  Pena,  also  a Cruceho,  has 
filled  many  offices  of  distinction,  and  has  rendered  invaluable  services  to  the  government  as 
prefect  of  Santa  Cruz,  minister  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  nation,  and  fiscal  general,  and 
he  has  written  books  of  great  merit,  especially  La  Flora  Crnceha,  which  is  regarded  as  one 
of  the  most  important  contributions  to  Bolivian  literature.  Don  Juan  Francisco  Velarde, 
Bolivian  minister  to  Washington  a few  years  ago,  and  several  times  member  of  the  Cabinet, 
is  a noted  journalist  and  writer.  Don  Gabriel  Rene  Moreno,  one  of  the  most  brilliant  writers 
of  South  America,  and  Don  Ignacio  Teran,  the  learned  director  of  the  University  of  San 
Francisco  Xavier,  are  proud  to  claim  Santa  Cruz  as  their  native  city.  These  are  only  a 
few  names  selected  to  show  how  active  the  Cruceho  is  in  contributing  his  share  to  the 
national  progress. 

Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra  is  situated  in  the  central  part  of  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz, 
and  in  a well-watered  region,  marking  the  divide  which  from  this  point  eastward  separates 
the  tributaries  of  the  Madeira  from  those  of  the  Paraguay.  Although  distant  about  three 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  Cochabamba,  the  nearest  large  city,  Santa  Cruz  is  reached  on 
horseback  without  difficulty,  though  sometimes,  in  the  wet  season,  with  delays  occasioned 
by  bad  roads.  The  citizens  are  naturally  desirous  of  seeing  the  early  completion  of  the  new 
railroad  system,  which  will  put  them  in  closer  connection  not  only  with  other  cities,  but  also 
with  the  chief  shipping  port  of  the  department,  Puerto  Suarez.  But  though  so  remote  from 
the  popular  highways  of  travel,  the  city  has  many  modern  conveniences,  fine  public  build- 
ings, and  commodious  residences.  As  the  seat  of  a bishopric,  it  has  a cathedral  of  imposing 
structure:  and  the  government  palace,  national  college,  agricultural  school,  public  library,  and 
hospital  occupy  well-constructed  edifices.  Manufacturing  establishments  are  numerous, 
including  saw  mills,  silk  and  cotton  factories,  tanneries,  and  various  small  enterprises  de- 
voted to  the  manufacture  of  diilces,  or  preserved  fruits,  chocolate,  and  other  confections. 


SANTA  CRUZ 


391 


Panama  hats,  which  are  woven  oi  j ip ijapa  fibre,  are  also  made  in  this  city.  All  the  commerce 
between  Santa  Cruz  and  foreign  countries  passes  through  the  ports  of  Villa  Bella,  Puerto 
Suarez,  and  Antofagasta.  The  city  is  connected  with  the  other  department  capitals  by 
telegraph,  and  several  long-distance  telephone  lines  connect  it  with  neighboring  towns  and 
with  the  provincial  capitals  of  the  department.  Roads  lead  out  of  the  capital  to  all  the 
principal  cities  of  the  department.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  city  are  celebrated  mineral  springs 
and  thermal  baths  of  the  highest  medicinal  value. 

The  department  of  Santa  Cruz  comprises  one  of  the  most  productive  regions  of  South 
America.  It  is  so  favored  by  climate  and  an  abundance  of  natural  resources  that  travellers 


GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  SANTA  CRUZ. 


unite  in  pronouncing  it  a wonderful  land  of  promise,  awaiting  only  the  necessary  in- 
dustrial enterprise  and  commercial  facilities  to  convert  it  into  the  most  flourishing  and 
prosperous  of  agricultural  countries.  Nature  seems  to  have  bestowed  unlimited  wealth  on 
this  territory,  in  which  gold  and  precious  stones  are  known  to  abound,  forests  of  rubber 
trees  yield  great  wealth,  all  kinds  of  fruits  and  cereals  grow  with  little  cultivation,  and  cattle 
raising  is  always  a profitable  enterprise.  The  department  covers  about  twenty  thousand 
square  leagues.  Its  western  boundary  is  marked  by  the  headwaters  of  the  Mamore,  which 
divide  it  from  the  department  of  Cochabamba : on  the  east  it  extends  to  the  Paraguay  River 
and  to  the  Rio  Verde  branch  of  the  Guapore,  by  both  of  which  it  is  separated  from  Brazil : 


392 


BOLiyiA 


the  department  of  the  Beni  extends  across  its  northern  boundary,  and  to  the  south  it 
adjoins  the  department  of  Chuquisaca.  The  western  section  is  close  to  the  foothills  of  the 

Cordillera  Real,  the  provinces  of  Valle 
Grande,  Cercado,  and  Sara,  which 
border  the  department  of  Cocha- 
bamba, being  traversed  by  serranias* 
that  are  rich  in  minerals  and  afford 
unlimited  pasturage  for  cattle  on  their 
fertile  slopes.  In  the  south  are  grown 
peaches,  oranges,  lemons,  figs,  bana- 
nas, and  pineapples,  while  in  the 
central  and  northern  districts  the  more 
tropical  dates,  chirimoyas,  and  grana- 
dillas  are  cultivated.  Medicinal  trees 
and  plants  of  great  value  are  found 
here,  the  best  known  being  the  cin- 
chona, from  which  quinine  is  ex- 
tracted, the  coca,  the  sarsaparilla, — 
smilax  medica, — and  the  jalap.  Almost 
every  agricultural  product  known  is 
cultivated  in  some  section  of  the  de- 
partment. Wheat,  corn,  and  alfalfa 
grow  in  abundance  in  the  hills  of  the 
western  districts,  and  in  the  rolling  plains  and  more  level  tracts  of  the  central  provinces 
of  Velasco  and  Chiquitos  are  large  plantations  of  sugar  cane,  cotton,  cacao,  cocoa,  mandioca, 
vanilla,  tobacco,  rice,  and  coffee.  The  low  lands  which  border  the  upper  streams  of  the 
Paraguay  and  the  Guapore  are  rich  in  rubber  trees,  an  important  source  of  revenue  to 
the  department.  The  growth  of  all  products  is  luxuriant,  corn  being  harvested  three 
months  after  planting,  sugar  cane  within  eight  months,  and  rice  every  five  or  six  months. 
Chiquitos  produces  rice  without  cultivation.  An  example  of  the  enormous  undeveloped 
wealth  of  eastern  Bolivia  is  shown  in  the  rice  crop  alone,  which  is  hardly  sufficient  to 
supply  the  market  of  a single  province  of  the  department.  Though  rice  can  be  planted 
at  any  season  of  the  year,  is  cultivated  with  the  greatest  facility,  grows  so  abundantly 
that  for  every  bushel  sown  the  harvest  is  forty  bushels,  and  is  of  the  very  best  quality, 
yet  millions  of  pounds  of  rice  are  imported  every  year.  A planter  has  been  known  to  sow 
a fdiu’gd,  about  one  and  a half  bushels,  at  the  beginning  of  the  year,  harvest  forty  fanegas 
in  five  months,  plant  the  forty  fanegas  immediately  and  gather  at  the  end  of  the  year  a 
harvest  of  one  thousand  six  hundred  fanegas,  the  year’s  labor  having  recompensed  him  by 
an  increase  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty-nine  fanegas.  There  are  two  kinds 
of  Bolivian  rice,  the  white  and  the  pink  variety.  The  soil  and  climate  of  Santa  Cruz  are 


SANTA  CRUZ 


m 


peculiarly  suited  to  its  cultivation,  and  it  will  no  doubt  be  one  of  the  principal  products  of 
the  department  in  the  near  future,  as  the  attention  of  progressive  agriculturists  has  already 
been  attracted  to  the  great  possibilities  of  this  industry. 

Another  product  which  grows  in  prolific  abundance  and  of  superior  quality  in  Santa 
Cruz  is  the  sugar  cane.  This  department  should  be  one  of  the  greatest  sugar-producing 
regions  in  the  world,  so  favorable  are  the  conditions  for  its  cultivation.  At  present  only  the 
most  primitive  methods  are  used  in  the  development  of  this  industry,  while  the  expense  of 
transportation  is  too  great  to  make  it  as  profitable  as  it  should  be.  When  modern  machinery 
is  imported  to  take  the  place  of  the  antiquated  apparatus  which  has  been  generally  used,  the 
sugar  industry  will  become  one  of  Bolivia’s  greatest  sources  of  wealth.  The  influence  of 
the  progressive  conditions  that  have  been  governing  the  country  during  the  past  few  years 
is  having  a beneficial  effect  on  agricultural  as  well  as  other  enterprises.  The  report  for  190^ 
shows  a notable  increase  over  the  five  preceding  years  in  the  quantity  of  sugar  exported, 
which  amounts  to  more  than  a million  pounds  annually.  Little  or  none  of  the  Santa  Cruz 
sugar  leaves  Bolivia,  most  of  it  being  consumed  in  this  and  other  departments,  excepting 
in  Chuquisaca  and  Potosi,  which  grow  their  own  sugar.  The  manufacture  of  alcohol  and 
rum  increases  every  year,  the  quantity  produced  by  Santa  Cruz  alone  being  estimated  at 


OLD  QUARTER  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


three  hundred  thousand  gallons  annually.  The  process  of  setting  out  a sugar  plantation  is 
described  by  those  who  have  seen  it  as  the  simplest  imaginable.  First  a space  is  cleared  in 


394 


BOLiyiA 


the  bosqiie  by  cutting  down  the  trees  and  underbrush ; and  a few  days  afterward,  when  the 
wood  is  quite  dry,  it  is  set  on  fire  and  burned,  to  leave  the  land  perfectly  clean  for  cultivation. 


PICTURESQUE  PLAZA  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


Then  the  planter,  with  a wooden  stick,  digs  holes  in  the  ground,  about  three  feet  apart,  and 
in  each  of  these  he  plants  a piece  of  cane,  pushing  it  down  into  the  soil  with  his  hand.  This 
is  done  in  November,  and  in  May  the  harvesting  begins.  Such  a plantation  will  continue  to 
yield  for  four  years,  each  successive  harvest  producing  a sweeter  quality  of  sugar.  The 
cane  grows  to  a height  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  the  first  year. 

Cotton  grows  with  so  little  cultivation  that  it  receives  hardly  any  attention,  though  it 
will  no  doubt  provide  an  important  industry  when  improved  transportation  facilities  lead  to 
the  general  development  of  agriculture  on  a larger  scale. 

Although  the  cinchona  tree  grows  in  great  abundance  in  the  department,  this  industry 
is,  like  nearly  every  other  of  eastern  Bolivia,  still  in  the  infancy  of  development.  There  are 
vast  forests  of  these  trees  which  have  not  even  been  thoroughly  explored,  and  the  few 
quiiiales,  as  the  quinine-producing  plantations  are  called,  which  are  exploited  by  large 
companies,  chiefly  belong  to  foreign  syndicates.  These  qiiiiules  are  usually  situated  on 
the  slopes  of  the  mountains,  at  an  altitude  of  from  three  thousand  to  seven  thousand  feet 
above  sea  level,  and  have  been  raised  from  seed  gathered  in  the  springtime  and  sprouted 


SANTA  CRUZ 


in  hothouses.  The  trees  grow  within  five  years  to  a height  of  eighteen  feet,  straight  and 
slender  in  form,  the  trunk  measuring  about  twenty  inches  in  circumference.  After  five 
years’  growth  it  is  sufficiently  developed  to  yield  bark  for  the  market,  a few  strips  about 
two  inches  wide  and  five  feet  long  being  cut  from  the  trunk  and  laid  out  to  dry  before 
shipment.  This  is  done  twice  or  three  times  a year,  the  bark  growing  anew  within  a couple 
of  years,  when  the  tree  may  be  stripped  again,  in  other  places.  Older  trees  yield  bark  from 
their  largest  branches,  as  well  as  from  the  trunk,  and  a mature  tree  will  produce  on  an 
average  about  five  pounds  of  bark. 

Petroleum  is  found  in  abundance  in  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz,  within  ten  leagues 
of  its  capital  city,  and  yet  this  valuable  product  remains  unexploited,  while  four  bolivianos 
per  gallon  are  paid  for  the  imported  article.  In  the  provinces  of  Valle  Grande  and  Sara  iron 
and  mercury  exist  in  large  quantities,  gold  abounds  in  the  mountains  and  streams  of  Chiqui- 
tos  province,  and  salt  is  a product  of  several  lakes  of  the  department.  Besides  the  celebrated 
mine  of  Santa  Rosa,  which  is  situated  in  the  province  of  Velasco  about  two  hundred  miles 
north  of  the  city  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  on  the  border  of  the  San  Miguel  River,  and 
which,  as  stated  elsewhere,  has  long  been  a famous  gold-mining  centre,  there  are  other  rich 
and  promising  placer  mines  in  this  province  and  in  Chiquitos.  Sorotoco,  Quebrada  Ancha, 


CALLE  DEL  COMERCIO,  SANTA  CRUZ. 


Clemente,  Limas,  Pehichi,  Brigida,  and  Naranjos  are  names  well  known  to  Bolivian  miners 
as  belonging  to  districts  that  have  yielded  many  thousands  of  pounds  of  gold  within  the 


BOLiyiA 


396 

past  half-century.  Every  explorer  who  visits  Chiquitos  returns  with  wonderful  stories  of 
its  mineral  wealth  and  the  precious  stones  to  be  found  there.  San  Jose,  which  lies  on  the 


VIEW  OF  SANTA  CRUZ,  SHOWING  LAKE  IN  THE  VICINITY. 


route  of  the  new  railway  to  be  built  from  Santa  Cruz  to  Puerto  Suarez,  has  been  worked 
only  in  the  most  primitive  fashion,  yet  has  produced  large  quantities  of  gold,  and  the  whole 
province  of  Chiquitos  gives  promise  of  proving  a rich  storehouse  full  of  the  precious  metal 
when  once  its  mountains  and  streams  are  thoroughly  explored.  Most  of  the  rivers  in  the 
department  contain  gold,  and  the  river  system  is  very  extensive,  including  affluents  both 
of  the  Amazon  and  the  La  Plata  waterways. 

The  western  part  of  Santa  Cruz  department  is  watered  chiefly  by  the  Rio  Grande  or 
Guapay,  which  after  traversing  the  provinces  of  Valle  Grande  and  Sara,  turns  northward 
to  join  the  Mamore.  This  large  river  is  navigable  throughout  nearly  its  whole  length, 
and  its  tributaries,  the  Piray  and  the  Yapacani,  which  flow  through  the  province  of  Sara, 
are  also  navigable  for  callapos  and  balsas.  The  province  of  Velasco  is  watered  by  the 
river  San  Miguel,  which  rises  in  Lake  Concepcion  on  the  border  of  Chiquitos  province  and 
crosses  the  department  in  a northwesterly  direction,  joining  the  Guapore,  after  traversing 
the  eastern  section  of  the  department  of  the  Beni.  It  is  an  important  river  and  receives 
many  tributaries  througlrout  its  course,  chief  among  them  the  Rio  Negro.  Dense  forests 
of  rubber  are  found  along  the  route  of  these  rivers,  as  well  as  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Rio  Blanco,  the  Serre  or  Paragua,  and  the  Rio  Verde,  all  of  which  rise  in  Velasco 
province  and,  after  crossing  the  Beni,  join  the  Guapore.  The  Rio  Verde  is  especially  rich 


SANTA  CRUZ 


397 


in  rubber  trees,  and  has  the  additional  importance  of  marking  the  source  of  navigation 
on  this  branch  of  the  Madeira  system  of  waterways.  The  recently  established  port  of 
Itenez  at  the  junction  of  the  Rio  Verde  with  the  Guapore,  on  the  northeastern  boundary 
of  Santa  Cruz  department,  is  an  important  acquisition  to  the  transportation  facilities  of 
this  region. 

Of  the  river  system  which  fertilizes  the  southern  provinces  of  Chiquitos  and  La  Cor- 
dillera, the  principal  affluent  is  the  Otuquis,  or  Rio  Negro,  a tributary  of  the  Paraguay, 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Tucabaca  and  the  San  Rafael  Rivers.  The  Tucabaca  is  a 
small  stream  which  receives  its  waters  from  the  periodical  torrents  that  sweep  down  from 
the  semmias  of  Santiago  and  Sunsa,  and  it  flows  through  an  almost  uninterrupted  stretch 
of  virgin  forest,  and  between  level  banks  free  from  undergrowth,  though  the  river  is 
impeded  at  intervals  by  the  debris  which  usually  collects  in  the  channels  of  forest  streams. 
The  San  Rafael  is  formed  by  the  uniting  of  many  small  affluents  from  the  semwias  of 
Santiago,  and  in  its  course  to  the  Otuquis  it  receives  the  thermal  waters  of  Florida  and 
Topera,  entering  the  main  river  under  the  name  of  Agua  Caliente,  “hot  water,”  at  a point 
called  Santo  Corazon.  The  Otuquis  is  navigable  for  thirty-six  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
may  be  made  a serviceable  waterway  for  a distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  when 


CACIQUE  AND  HIS  FAMILY,  SANTA  CRUZ. 


the  work  of  clearing  its  channel  from  tree  trunks  and  other  obstacles  is  completed.  The 
Pirapiti,  which  rises  in  the  scrrania  of  Pomabamba,  departmunt  of  Chuquisaca,  is  variously 


BOLIVIA 


398 

given  as  a tributary  of  the  Otuquis,  which  it  is  said  to  join  near  the  headwaters  of  the  latter, 
as  an  independent  river  emptying  into  Lake  Concepcion,  and  as  a tributary  of  the  San  Miguel, 
which  is  generally  described  as  having  its  source  in  Lake  Concepcion,  in  the  province  of 
Chiquitos.  This  lake  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  department,  having  a circum- 
ference of  about  twenty  leagues,  though  there  are  several  lagoons,  called  enriches  and 
hanados,  along  the  courses  of  the  various  rivers  which  water  the  department.  The  Salinas 
de  Santiago  and  Salinas  de  San  Jose,  in  the  province  of  La  Cordillera,  are  similar  in  appear- 
ance to  those  of  Poopo  and  Coipasa  on  the  Titicaca  plateau,  and  are  noted  for  their  saline 
properties. 

The  river  system  of  the  eastern  part  of  Bolivia  is  somewhat  complicated,  there  being 
some  sections  of  the  great  divortia  aquarum,  or  water  divide,  between  the  Amazon  and 
La  Plata  system,  which  are  so  slightly  marked  that  a heavy  flood  is  sufficient  to  alter  the 
direction  of  the  currents.  The  Rio  Aguaclara,  which  flows  into  the  Alegre  and  is  known 
a few  miles  below  as  the  Guapore,  rises  in  the  same  ceiro  as  the  Pezea  which  is  a branch 
of  the  Jauru,  as  the  Paraguay  River  is  called  for  the  first  few  miles  of  its  course.  The 
Guapore  and  the  Paraguay  are  only  five  miles  apart,  and  it  has  been  suggested  that  the  two 
waterways  could  be  profitably  joined  for  the  purposes  of  commerce.  At  Bahia  Negra,  which 
is  the  name  given  to  that  region  of  the  Upper  Paraguay  which  marks  the  junction  of  the 
Paraguay  with  the  Otuquis,  the  main  river  is  bordered  by  very  low  banks  hardly  more  than 
fve  or  six  feet  above  the  water  at  high  tide  and  subject  to  inundation  during  the  rainy 
season.  Puerto  Pacheco,  which  is  situated  south  of  Bahia  Negra,  in  the  region  popularly 
known  as  the  Chaco  Boreal,  and  at  a distance  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  miles  from 
Buenos  Aires,  is  the  chief  river  port  of  this  part  of  Bolivia.  To  the  north  of  Puerto  Pacheco, 
the  Paraguay  River  has  sufficient  depth  for  the  navigation  of  small  steamers  as  far  as  Lakes 
Gaiba  and  Uberaba,  where  the  Jauru  enters  a broader  channel  and  becomes  known  as  the 
Paraguay.  The  Gaiba  is  deep  enough  to  admit  boats  drawing  from  six  to  eight  feet  of 
water.  This  is  one  of  the  richest  zones  of  eastern  Bolivia:  and  once  it  is  opened  to  industrial 
development,  pasture  lands  of  the  first  order  will  be  established  here,  an  increasing  demand 
will  be  made  for  the  forest  lands  on  which  valuable  timber  grows  in  abundance,  and  the 
advantages  of  this  region  for  the  purposes  of  agriculture,  such  as  coffee  growing  and  rice 
culture,  will  be  recognized.  When  one  considers  how  desperate  is  the  competition  in 
industry  and  commerce  in  the  overcrowded  countries  of  Europe,  and  what  a constant 
struggle  the  masses  have  to  endure  in  order  to  get  their  daily  bread,  it  is  not  surprising  that 
enthusiasm  should  be  awakened  at  the  spectacle  of  the  abundance  which  is  to  be  had  by 
little  effort  in  these  vast  forests  and  fertile  plains,  and  the  prediction  is  naturally  forced  upon 
one  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  the  steamers  that  ply  up  and  down  the  Paraguay 
will  bring  multitudes  of  immigrants  to  its  shores,  and  that  the  thousands  of  square  leagues 
which  now  lie  idle  will  provide  for  the  comfort  and  well-being  of  many  happy  colonists. 

As  in  all  tropical  countries,  the  climate  of  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz  is  marked  by 
only  two  seasons,  the  winter  being  known  as  the  dry  and  the  summer  as  the  wet  season. 


SANTA  CRUZ 


399 


Winter  usually  begins  in  April  and  lasts  until  September  or  October,  and  is  characterized  by 
alternating  north  and  south  winds,  the  north  wind  being  very  pleasant,  but  the  south  wind 
bringing  such  an  abrupt  lowering  of  the  temperature  that  the  inhabitants  are  obliged  to  wear 
heavy  clothing  during  the  two  or  three  days  that  it  lasts.  The  warm  season  becomes  more 
marked  each  month  from  September  until  February  or  March;  and  the  rains,  which  begin 
in  December  or  January,  continue  until  April,  diminishing  gradually.  In  the  southern  part 
the  seasons  are  modified,  and  in  Chiquitos,  where  the  sernm/as  mark  an  altitude  of  four  or 
five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  the  four  seasons  are  very  clearly  defined. 

Hunting  is  one  of  the  pastimes  afforded  by  the  abundance  of  wild  animals  in  the  forests 
of  Santa  Cruz,  the  game  being  of  the  species  usually  found  in  tropical  countries.  Handsome 
tiger  skins  are  frequently  brought  into  the  city  for  sale,  as  well  as  huge  cobra  skins,  the 
largest  to  be  found  anywhere,  some  of  them  measuring  thirty  feet  in  length.  Foxes,  rabbits. 


I 


LAS  BARRERAS.  A HACIENDA  NEAR  SANTA  CRUZ. 


tapirs,  wildcats,  and  monkeys  abound.  The  sloth  is  a native  of  these  bosques,  and  is  seen 
everywhere  in  the  great  tropical  forests  of  Velasco.  It  is  very  interesting  to  watch  this 
animal,  the  symbol  of  laziness,  slowly  making  its  two  or  three  feet  of  progress  a day.  It 
has  protection  from  attack  in  long  talons,  which  it  fixes  so  securely  in  the  flesh  of  the 
enemy  that  they  can  be  removed  only  by  being  cut  out.  So  deliberate  are  its  movements 
that  a hare  can  run  miles  while  it  is  turning  its  head.  The  sloth  is  about  the  size  of  a cat, 
though  it  bears  no  resemblance  whatever  to  the  feline  species.  Its  coat  is  of  coarse  gray 
hair.  Fishermen  find  good  sport  in  the  streams,  though  there  are  not  many  varieties  of 
fish,  but  turtles  are  found  of  every  kind.  The  forests  abound  in  every  variety  of  the 
feathered  species  from  the  magnificent  macaw  with  its  gorious  plumage  flashing  in  the  sun- 
light, where  golden  rays  pierce  the  deep  shadows  of  tropical  woodland,  to  the  tiny  hum- 
ming bird  that  sparkles  like  a brilliant  gem  as  it  sips  the  sweetest  blossoms  of  groves  that 


400 


BOLiyiA 


are  laden  with  perfumed  flowers.  Hunters  seldom  disturb  these  beautiful  birds,  and  they 
enjoy  unlimited  freedom. 

The  charm  of  the  tropics  is  acknowledged  by  all  who  have  lived  under  its  spell  for  a 
time.  There  is  a beauty  in  the  great,  towering  monarchs  of  the  forest,  in  the  luxuriant 
verdure,  in  the  rich  greens  of  the  valleys,  and  in  the  gorgeous  hues  of  a thousand  blossoms. 
The  birds  are  so  happy  in  perpetual  summer  land,  and  even  those  which  do  not  sing  are 
enchanting  in  their  gay  plumage  and  graceful  flight.  Murmuring  streams  and  flashing 
cascades  have  a beauty  that  is  irresistible,  and  there  is  no  voice  so  alluring  as  the  whisper 
of  the  tropical  breeze  borne  upon  the  still  air  of  Nature’s  ideal  dreamland. 


THE  CACTUS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


..  ^ 

Li  , ; 


fc^.'  .-iT^'  .-  ...  ^.-  . !|? 

. *■'“  KS-u.  . , isl  :^.^-  . •-".  M.  ;/■  ' ^ 

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■ :‘>,i 


V t *^*'’  -if- 


='..n.- ' 


^ .§\  :v^  :3#-’" 


':::y9  ^ 


• .-^jb  ■ • ^ •'tS^  V'  ■■  ‘tn'' 

'•  :)ls;-, 


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.n'  -y 


^ f.  ju&br 


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OPENING  THE  ROAD  EROM  PUERTO  PACHECO,  ON  THE  PARAGUAY  RIVER. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 


TARIJA— EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  CHACO 


'^HE  city  of  San  Bernardo  de  Tarija,  founded 
^ in  1^74  as  a Spanish  settlement  for  the 
headquarters  of  the  missionaries  who  were 
working  among  the  Indians  of  the  Chaco,  still 
preserves  some  of  the  characteristics  of  the  old 
Spanish  convent  city,  the  handsome  cathedral 
and  the  temple  and  convent  of  San  Francisco 
being  among  its  most  conspicuous  buildings. 
The  city  has  an  interesting  history,  the  chron- 
icles of  colonial  times,  which  are  preserved  in 
the  national  archives,  recording  such  deeds  of 
heroism  on  the  part  of  its  early  inhabitants  as 
are  seldom  surpassed  in  the  annals  of  a people. 
When  the  Viceroy  Toledo  visited  Potosi  in  1773 
he  was  informed  of  the  great  difficulties  en- 
countered by  the  Christian  fathers  in  their 
efforts  to  civilize  the  Chiriguanos  of  the  Chaco, 
and  of  the  dangers  in  which  they  constantly 
risked  their  lives,  and  he  at  once  decided  to 
establish  garrisoned  Spanish  towns  along  the 
frontiers  of  the  Chichas  territory,  which  ad- 
joined that  of  the  Chiriguanos.  The  Chichas 

GIANT  TREE  IN  TARIJA.  , , , f ,,  j • , • , 

were  peaceable  tribes,  inhabiting  the  district 
now  comprised  in  the  department  of  Tarija,  and  they  had  suffered  from  the  hostile  and 
predatory  Chiriguanos  long  before  the  conquest,  the  Incas  having  been  obliged  to  construct 
fortifications  for  the  protection  of  the  vassals  of  the  empire  against  these  savages  of  the 
Chaco,  who  could  never  be  brought  under  Inca  dominion. 

403 


404 


BOLIVIA 


On  January  22,  1^74,  the  viceroy  despatched  a commission  under  the  direction  of  a 
Spanish  noble  named  Don  Luis  de  Puentes,  with  authority  to  found,  in  the  valley  of  Tarija, 
a city  with  the  name  of  San  Bernardo  de  la  Frontera.  The  founder  received  the  title  of 
captain  and  chief  justice  of  the  new  city  and  of  all  its  jurisdiction,  extending  for  fifty  leagues, 
twenty  in  the  territory  of  the  Chichas,  and  thirty  in  the  Chiriguanos’  lands.  He  was  also 
given  full  power  to  remunerate  those  who  took  part  in  the  conquest  and  population  of  the 
new  country,  distributing  among  them  the  lands  they  were  to  occupy.  As  founder,  he  was 
rewarded  with  one-fourth  of  these  lands.  It  is  related  that  Don  Luis  Puentes  found  it 
very  difficult  to  secure  colonists,  because,  though  the  viceroy  promised  much  for  the  future, 
there  was  little  to  live  upon  in  the  meantime,  and  the  atrocities  constantly  committed  by  the 
Chiriguanos  struck  terror  to  the  hearts  of  the  boldest.  Finally  about  forty-five  Spaniards 
from  Potosi  and  Chuquisaca  were  induced  to  settle  in  the  new  town,  an  equal  number  of 
Indians  were  employed  to  begin  the  work  of  laying  out  the  town  and  constructing  the 
houses,  and  the  vicar  of  a Dominican  convent  of  Chuquisaca  was  engaged  as  chaplain  to 
the  people.  With  such  an  insignificant  defense  did  the  brave  missionaries  establish  their 
headquarters  on  a frontier  where  more  than  six  thousand  Indians  were  prepared  for  war, 
offensive  and  defensive,  opposing  with  poisoned  arrows  any  attempt  of  the  Spaniards  to 
interfere  with  their  raids  on  the  Chichas’  camps.  While  the  millionaires  of  Potosi  were 
enjoying  the  luxury  of  their  wealth  from  the  mines  of  the  Cerro,  and  the  Spanish  monarch 
was  employing  his  newly  acquired  revenues  to  equip  the  famous  Armada  with  which  he 
hoped  to  bring  new  glory  to  Spanish  arms  and  humiliation  to  Queen  Elizabeth  of  Eng- 
land, a few  devoted  soldiers  of  the  Cross  were  establishing  themselves,  without  aid  and 
without  ostentation,  on  the  remote  frontiers  of  a new  country,  in  the  midst  of  a savage 
people,  surrounded  by  danger,  and  menaced  by  starvation,  to  work  for  the  civilization  and 
conversion  of  colonial  Spain.  They  renounced  comfort,  peace,  and  security,  and  went  into 
voluntary  and  lifelong  exile  among  the  Indians  to  accomplish  their  purpose. 

The  tradition  relating  to  the  supposed  missionary  journeys  of  Saint  Thomas  in  South 
America  is  associated  in  a singular  way  with  the  sacred  relics  long  preserved  in  the  church 
of  Tarija.  Soon  after  the  foundation  of  the  city,  a large  wooden  cross,  apparently  very  old 
and  having  done  much  service,  was  found  by  an  Indian  in  one  of  the  caves  of  the  hills 
several  leagues  distant  from  the  city,  in  a part  of  the  country  which,  it  was  supposed,  had 
not  hitherto  been  visited  by  the  Spaniards.  The  cross,  which  was  about  fifteen  feet  in 
heiglit,  was  much  worn,  and  the  bottom  was  decayed  as  if  from  having  been  buried  in  the 
ground.  The  only  explanation  of  its  origin  was  supplied  by  the  Indians  of  the  Chaco,  who, 
like  the  natives  of  the  Titicaca  region,  had  a popular  legend  of  a tall  man  of  pale  complexion, 
with  long  hair  and  beard,  and  dressed  in  flowing  garments  almost  to  his  feet.  Their 
ancestors  had  handed  down  the  story  that  the  pale  stranger  was  a great  teacher  who  went 
about  among  the  tribes,  telling  them  that  God  had  come  into  the  world  and  died  on  a cross, 
like  one  which  he  brought  with  him  and  set  up  in  their  midst.  The  sacred  relic  was  placed 
in  the  church  of  Tarija,  which  became  celebrated  as  a shrine  where  many  miracles  were 


TARIJ A— EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  CHACO 


40^ 

wrought.  Whatever  may  be  the  true  story  of  this  particular  cross,  it  is  believed  by  many 
students  of  the  history  of  the  South  American  Indians  that  a cross  was  used  as  a religious 
symbol  by  some  of  the  tribes  long  before  the  discovery  of  America  by  Christopher  Columbus. 

The  city  founded  under  such  adverse  circumstances  grew  slowly  at  first,  the  population 
being  reduced  soon  after  its  foundation  to  about  twenty-fve  inhabitants;  but  the  resolute 
spirit  of  the  colonists  triumphed  over  disaster  and  sickness,  and  gradually  the  town  increased 


THE  NARROWS,  NEAR  TARUA. 


in  numbers,  importance,  and  wealth.  In  1690  the  little  settlement  had  three  hundred 
citizens,  fve  convents,  a hospital,  and  a college.  During  the  viceroyalty  Tarija  was  under 
the  administration  of  the  Intendencia  of  Potosi,  but  after  the  inauguration  of  the  republic  the 
department  of  Tarija  was  formed,  with  San  Bernardo  de  Tarija  as  its  capital  city.  The  name 
Tarija  was  given  in  honor  of  the  discoverer  of  the  site  on  which  the  city  was  founded.  It 
lies  in  a picturesque  valley  at  an  elevation  of  seven  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  and  is 
noted  for  its  delightful  climate  and  beautiful  scenery.  The  present  population  is  eight 


4o6 


BOLIVIA 


thousand,  of  whom  about  two  hundred  are  foreigners.  As  capital  of  the  department,  Tarija 
is  the  residence  of  the  prefect,  and  the  seat  of  a court  of  justice,  university  council,  committee 
of  public  safety,  and  other  departmental  organizations.  The  city  has  an  excellent  public 
library,  twelve  schools  for  primary  and  secondary  instruction,  a university,  two  banks,  a 
hospital,  and  public  buildings  of  minor  importance.  Many  of  the  private  residences  are 
handsome  modern  structures,  of  European  style,  with  pretty  gardens  and  shade  trees  to 
beautify  them.  Two  newspapers  are  published,  one  of  which.  La  Estrella  de  Tarija,  was 
founded  many  years  ago.  The  social  life  of  Tarija  is  particularly  charming,  the  people  being 
cultured  and  gracious  in  manner  and  extremely  hospitable.  The  city  has  not  hitherto  been 
especially  noted  as  a commercial  centre,  though  always  an  important  highway  for  traffic 
entering  Bolivia  through  Argentina.  It  has  been  chiefly  regarded  as  a city  more  distinguished 
for  political  than  commercial  influence,  as  its  most  prominent  men  have  always  been  identified 
with  the  affairs  of  government.  The  present  minister  of  instruction,  Sehor  Don  Juan  Saracho, 
was  born  in  Tarija,  which  was  also  the  birthplace  of  ex-President  Arce  and  of  the  illustrious 
soldier  and  statesman  General  Campero.  Senator  Tomas  O’Connor  d’Arlach,  one  of  Bolivia’s 
best  poets,  is  a Tarijeho,  belonging  to  a family  who  have,  for  generations  past,  been  among 
its  most  distinguished  citizens.  The  fame  of  its  Christian  teachers  and  missionaries  is  still 
preserved  by  such  self-sacrificing  and  kindly  souls  as  Father  Giannechini,  who  is  esteemed 
not  only  by  his  own  people,  but  by  many  foreign  travellers  who  have  enjoyed  his  assistance 
and  hospitality.  Dr.  Crevaux,  the  noted  French  explorer  of  the  Chaco,  not  only  reported  to 
the  Bolivian  government  how  deeply  he  was  indebted  to  the  good  father  for  aid  and 
information,  but  paid  an  enthusiastic  tribute  to  the  noble  priest  in  his  letters  to  the  French 
government  as  well.  He  has  accompanied  several  hazardous  expeditions  through  the  wilds 
of  the  Chaco,  and  was  chaplain  to  the  Bolivian  commission  which  in  i88^  made  a survey 
of  the  national  territory  bordering  on  the  Paraguay  River.  The  explorer  Thouar  and  his 
party  expressed  in  letters  their  eternal  gratitude  for  the  kind  services  shown  them  by  Father 
Giannechini,  whose  name  is  known  to  all  travellers  who  have  occasion  to  journey  in  this 
part  of  Bolivia. 

Not  only  liave  explorers  visited  Tarija  in  the  interests  of  botany  and  ethnology,  which 
present  special  features  in  the  region  of  the  Chaco,  but  palaeontologists  have  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  city  itself  some  of  the  most  valuable  fossils  ever  discovered.  In  all  the  great 
museums  of  the  world  specimens  from  the  valley  of  Tarija  are  on  exhibition,  and  especially 
in  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  of  Paris,  to  which  the  noted  naturalist  H.  A.  Weddell 
contributed  many  fine  fossils  as  a result  of  his  visit  to  this  region.  He  describes  the  valley 
as  having  the  aspect  of  an  immense  channel,  which  he  thinks  it  evidently  was  at  some 
period.  The  hills  scattered  over  its  surface  give  apparent  proof  that  it  was  traversed 
by  much  more  tumultuous  currents  than  those  that  now  water  its  course.  The  diluvial 
nature  of  the  soil  is  particularly  evident  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  where 
the  ground  is  cut  in  all  directions  by  deep  fissures  crossing  each  other  in  a labyrinth,  and 
leaving  isolated  hillocks  at  intervals,  some  of  them  distinguished  by  the  most  bizarre  shapes. 


TARIJA— EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  CHACO 


407 


The  walls  of  these  gullies  show  plainly  that  the  soil  of  the  valley,  down  to  a great  depth,  is 
formed  of  an  immense  bed  of  mud,  due  to  the  former  action  of  a strong  current  of  water. 
The  fossils  found  here,  according  to  Mr.  Weddell,  are  of  various  kinds.  His  collection 
included  not  only  the  Mastodoiite  Hiunboldtii,  but  the  remains  of  about  fifteen  other  animals 
of  the  mammiferous  species.  He  unearthed  bones  and  teeth  of  the  Megatherium,  a variety 
which  was  larger  than  the  rhinoceros,  and  found  fragments  of  prehistoric  shellfish,  rodents, 
ruminants,  species  of  the  horse,  the  deer,  and  other  animals,  all  herbivorous,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a single  specimen  which  is  supposed  to  belong  to  the  bear  family.  Mr.  Weddell’s 


BOLIVIAN  COMMISSION  OF  LIMITS.  ENCAMPED  IN  THE  CHACO. 


theory  is  that  a powerful  current  of  water  brought  the  fossils  from  another  locality,  and  as 
its  force  was  abated  in  passing  through  the  valley,,  they  were  deposited  in  this  place. 

Tarija  is  chiefly  interesting  as  the  centre  of  a territory  which  is  rich  in  industrial  possi- 
bilities and  practically  an  unexploited  field  for  enterprises  of  this  character.  The  department 
covers  an  area  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-four  thousand  square  kilometres  and  is  divided 
into  six  provinces : Cercado,  Mendez,  Avilez,  Arce,  Salinas,  and  Gran  Chaco.  All  the  provinces, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Gran  Chaco  are  traversed  by  scrnwias  of  considerable  altitude, 
though  diminishing  toward  the  east,  where  great  rolling  plains  and  gently  sloping  hills  provide 
abundant  pasturage  for  cattle.  On  the  higher  levels,  wheat,  corn,  and  barley  are  grown  of  a 
superior  quality  and  in  plenty,  while  the  more  tropical  districts  of  the  Chaco  yield  bountiful 


4o8 


BOLIVIA 


harvests  of  rice,  tobacco,  and  the  usual  tropical  products.  In  the  mountain  districts  minerals 
and  precious  stones  are  found,  but  little  capital  has  been  invested  for  the  development  of 


PALM  TREES  IN  THE  GRAN  CHACO. 


mining  properties.  The  climate  is  superb  in  the  western  part  of  the  department,  the  Gran 
Chaco  being  more  tropical,  though  healthful  and  agreeable.  All  the  rivers  of  this  region  are 
tributaries  of  the  Paraguay:  the  Pilcomayo  and  the  Bermejo  are  the  principal  waterways. 

In  a recent  report  to  the  supreme  government,  the  Prefect  of  Tarija,  Colonel  Don 
Leocadio  Trigo,  gives  a complete  description  of  the  climate,  natural  resources,  and  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Gran  Chaco,  which  affords  a glimpse  of  the  condition  and  people  of  this 
little  known  but  very  important  province.  Colonel  Trigo  led  an  expedition  which  explored 
the  left  bank  of  the  Pilcomayo  for  fifty  leagues  down  its  course,  starting  from  Caiza,  a few 
miles  north  of  Yacuiba  on  the  Argentine  boundary.  From  Caiza  to  the  Crevaux  colony, 
one  of  the  recently  established  posts  on  the  river,  at  about  twenty-two  degrees  south 
latitude,  tlie  distance  is  twenty-five  leagues,  fourteen  of  which  extends  through  fertile 
territory,  offering  little  difficulty  to  development.  Crevaux  colony  lies  on  a beautiful 
peninsula,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Pilcomayo,  and  is  the  centre  of  extensive  pasture 
lands.  A small  garrison  is  established  here.  From  Crevaux  colony  to  the  next  settlement 
on  the  river.  Fort  Murillo,  the  distance  is  six  leagues,  the  river  being  crossed  at  this  point 
in  small  canoes,  which  the  Indians  call  Aialaihis.  At  Fort  Murillo  sugar  cane  is  cultivated, 
though  cattle  raising  is  the  chief  industry.  From  Fort  Murillo  to  Fort  Campero,  about  thirty 


TARIJ A— EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  CHACO 


409 


leagues  further  down  the  river,  the  exploring  party  passed  through  the  territory  of  theTobas 
and  the  Chorotis,  Indians  of  the  Chaco,  semi-civilized  tribes.  Many  estancias  belonging  to 
Bolivian  ranchmen  were  visited  on  the  way,  one  of  the  largest  being  the  property  of  Sehor 
Gomez,  a typical  “cattle  king”  of  the  Chaco.  Everywhere  pasturage  was  abundant,  and 
sufficient  fish  and  game  were  caught  for  the  needs  of  the  expedition.  At  the  esiancia  of 
Sehor  Gomez  the  prefect  was  visited  by  several  chiefs  of  the  Tobas,  to  whom  the  friendly 
mission  of  the  government  was  explained  satisfactorily,  the  Indians  promising  not  to  oppose 
the  progress  of  civilization  in  their  territory.  From  Fort  Murillo  onward  the  bosqiies,  which 
were  frequent  higher  up  the  river,  became  more  scattered  and  of  lesser  growth,  disappearing 
finally  in  open  fields  of  pasturage.  The  river  Pilcomayo  at  various  points  overflowed  its  low 
banks,  spreading  out  in  marshes,  or  banados,  changing  its  channel,  and  occasionally  forming 
peninsulas,  on  which  rice,  sugar  cane,  cotton,  and  corn  are  grown  almost  without  cultivation. 
As  the  river  approaches  the  Paraguay  its  channel  becomes  deeper  and  narrower,  and  its  banks 
higher  and  better  defined,  making  navigation  easier.  The  zone  inhabited  by  the  Chiriguanos 
is  marked  by  a great  forest  of  palm  trees  which  stretches  along  the  river  bank  for  a consider- 
able distance.  In  an  interview  with  the  Indian  chief  it  was  learned  that  these  tribes  were 
better  disposed  than  formerly  to  come  under  the  influences  of  civilization,  and  their  leader 
asked  for  supplies  and  the  necessary  guarantees,  which  were  given,  the  chief  being  presented 
by  the  prefect  with  a Remington  rifle  to  insure  his  protection  against  invading  hordes. 

At  Fort  Campero,  on  the  river  Pilcomayo,  the  territory  of  the  Tobas  joins  that  of  the 
Chorotis,  the  tribes  of  which  are  three  times  more  numerous  and  are  in  possession  of  a 
much  greater  extent  of  land  than  the  Tobas.  Still  further  down  the  river  the  Tapietes  are 


SCENE  ON  THE  PILCOMAYO  RIVER. 


dominant,  living  in  the  depths  of  the  forests  and  remaining  completely  uncivilized.  The 
other  two  tribes  are  more  advanced,  and  frequently  seek  employment  in  the  haciendas  and 


410 


BOLiyiA 


pueblos  of  Gran  Chaco.  In  all  their  settlements,  Indians  are  met  with  who  speak  a little 
Spanish.  Colonel  Trigo,  in  his  report  of  the  expedition,  says  that  while  their  arrival  appeared 
to  cause  little  surprise  to  the  Tobas,  who  received  them  all  along  the  route  with  friendliness, 
the  Chorotis  tried  by  every  possible  means  to  discourage  their  progress  by  depicting  all 
kinds  of  dangers.  As  the  party  proceeded  in  spite  of  the  evil  predictions  of  the  Indians,  the 
country  presented  a more  beautiful  aspect  than  anything  seen  before.  The  pasture  was  rich 
and  covered  a vast  extent  of  territory,  and  distant  hosqucs  lent  a picturesque  variety  to  the 
scenery.  Beyond  this  magnificent  stretch  of  plain,  which  the  enthusiastic  explorers  called  a 
perfect  paradise,  they  came  upon  a Choroti  settlement,  which  marked  the  boundary  line 


CAMP  OF  CHOROTIS  ON  THE  PLAINS  OF  THE  BOLIVIAN  CHACO. 


between  the  territory  of  the  Chorotis  and  the  Tapietes.  Here  they  rested  for  the  night,  the 
Indians  refusing  to  trade  with  them,  or  even  to  converse,  until  they  had  assembled  in 
parliament.  When  it  was  made  known  to  them  that  the  government  sought  their  protection 
and  well-being,  and  the  advancement  of  civilization  in  their  midst,  they  appeared  well 
pleased  with  the  idea.  The  conference  ended  with  the  distribution  of  the  usual  presents  of 
tobacco  and  other  articles,  the  oldest  woman  of  the  tribe  chanting  a weird,  monotonous  song 
in  token  of  the  friendly  acceptance  of  the  strangers’  visit. 

The  story  of  the  journey  made  by  the  Prefect  of  Tarija  and  his  commission  for  fifty 
leagues  through  unexplored  territory  and  in  the  midst  of  uncivilized  Indians  has  many 
interesting  features  besides  the  simple  relation  of  meetings  with  friendly  tribes  and  the 


TARIJ A— EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  CHACO 


41 1 

usual  experiences  of  an  exploring  party.  There  were  days  when  the  heat  was  intense, 
when  the  path  led  through  dense  forest,  over  sandy  stretches,  and  through  thorny  under- 
growth where  it  was  necessary  to  cut  a route  with  hatchets.  The  guides  were  not  always 
faithful,  and  seldom  truthful,  especially  those  of  the  Chorotis,  who  did  not  at  first  relish  the 
idea  of  the  white  man’s  invasion,  though  they  became  good  friends  of  the  expedition  as  its 
motive  was  made  known.  The  Tapietes  offered  no  welcome  to  the  advancing  party,  but, 
on  the  contrary,  burned  their  camps  at  the  newcomers’  approach.  When  face  to  face  with 
the  prefect  and  his  followers,  however,  the  Tapietes  did  not  show  themselves  so  valiant. 
The  firearms  and  other  accoutrements  of  the  white  man  filled  them  with  especial  admiration 
for  his  prowess.  After  the  usual  formalities,  they  were  informed  of  the  purpose  of  the 
expedition,  and  gave  the  promise  of  their  friendliness. 

The  exploration  made  by  the  Prefect  of  Tarija  along  the  course  of  the  Pilcomayo  proves 
that  it  waters  a region  rich  in  pasturage  and  offering  great  advantages  for  colonization.  Much 
of  the  territory  through  which  the  journey  was  made  is  as  abundant  in  pasturage  as  the  best 
lands  of  Argentina,  and  there  is  practically  no  limit  to  the  possibilities  of  development.  On 
the  few  estancias  scattered  throughout  the  country  fine  cattle  and  horses  are  reared,  and 
chickens,  ducks,  and  other  barnyard  fowl  thrive  here.  The  journey  gave  proof  of  the 
facilities  existing  for  the  opening  up  of  traffic  in  this  part  of  Bolivia  by  way  of  the  Pilcomayo 
and  Paraguay  Rivers,  as  navigation  for  small  craft  is  easy  and  boats  and  barges  of  sufficient 
capacity  for  carrying  considerable  cargo  can  be  used  on  this  waterway.  Dr.  Santiago  Vaca 
Guzman  has  written  an  interesting  book  entitled  El  Pilcoimiro,  in  which  he  gives  a great 
deal  of  valuable  information  about  this  great  river:  The  Pilcomayo,  in  its  course  of  six 
hundred  miles,  waters  three  distinct  regions:  that  of  the  Bolivian  sernniLis,  where  it  rises, 
called  the  puna  by  some  geographers ; that  of  the  plains,  where  it  spreads  out  over  a wide 
area  in  the  rainy  season;  and  that  of  its  emhoiiLliiire,  comprised  in  the  delta  by  which  it 
enters  the  Paraguay.  In  its  long  course  it  receives  several  affluents,  the  Tarapaya  being 
particularly  notable  as  the  stream  which  supplies  many  ingcnios  of  Potosi  with  water,  and 
which,  during  the  early  period  of  the  silver  mining  industry,  carried  millions  of  dollars’  worth 
of  the  precious  metal  down  to  the  Pilcomayo.  It  is  the  opinion  of  those  who  have  explored 
the  Pilcomayo  that  it  may  be  made  navigable  from  the  point  where  its  main  tributaries  enter 
the  river  at  the  base  of  the  Royal  Range  to  the  Paraguay,  and  that  in  order  to  accomplish 
this  benefit  it  is  necessary  only  to  use  a dredge  in  some  parts  and  to  clear  the  debris  in 
others,  so  that  the  river  course  may  be  better  regulated. 

The  name  of  Chaco  is  generally  applied  to  the  great  region  which  extends  from  the 
province  of  Chiquitos  in  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz  to  the  Rio  Salado  on  the  northern 
border  of  the  Argentine  pampas.  It  is  divided  into  the  Chaco  Boreal,  or  northern  Chaco,  of 
which  Puerto  Pacheco  is  the  chief  river  port;  Chaco  Central,  of  which  Villa  Hayes  is  the 
river  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pilcomayo,  and  Chaco  Austral,  in  the  Argentine  republic.  By 
a recent  treaty  of  limits  with  Argentina,  Bolivia  ceded  its  claim  to  that  part  of  the  Chaco 
comprised  between  the  Pilcomayo  and  Bermejo  Rivers. 


412 


BOLiyiA 


The  new  railway  which  is  to  connect  Yacuiba  with  Santa  Cruz  will  assist  in  develop- 
ing trade  and  encouraging  immigration  in  this  promising  province,  and  within  a few  years 
the  Gran  Chaco,  which  has  always  been  regarded  as  the  least  important  province  of  the 
department,  because  of  its  isolation  from  the  highways  of  travel  and  its  almost  total 
occupation  by  the  indigenes,  will  be  one  of  the  most  prosperous  districts  of  eastern 
Bolivia.  The  Indians  are,  as  a rule,  peaceable  and  friendly,  except  in  a limited  district 
where  few  white  men  have  penetrated  except  on  scientific  expeditions.  The  stories  of 
attacks  by  the  Indians  are  very  often  exaggerated,  and  the  traveller  is  frequently  to  blame 
for  the  antagonism  of  the  tribes.  The  unsettled  territory  is  becoming  more  and  more 
reduced  as  the  opportunities  for  industrial  enterprise  are  being  recognized,  and  few  regions 
exist  where  the  conditions  are  more  favorable  for  colonization  than  on  the  plains  of  the 
Chaco.  Tarija  will  always  be  the  chief  metropolis  of  this  part  of  Bolivia;  and  while  its 
riches  increase  as  the  centre  of  valuable  agricultural  provinces,  its  importance  will  be  still 
greater  as  the  chief  market  for  the  cattle  of  the  vast  pasture  lands  of  Gran  Chaco. 


COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  TARUA. 


. - ■ 


STEAMBOAT  ON  THE  MAMORE  RIVER,  EL  BENI. 


CHAPTER  XXVII 

EL  BENI,  THE  BOLIVIAN  EL  DORADO 


pVERY  year  exploring  expeditions  go  to  the  Beni, 
^ penetrate  its  forests,  find  new  tributaries  to  its 
rivers,  examine  its  sierras,  and  bring  back  wonderful 
stories  of  gold  mines  and  precious  stones  in  abundance, 
of  rich  pasture  lands  and  agricultural  valleys,  of  great 
forests  of  hardwood,  medicinal  plants,  and  tropical 
fruits,  and  crowning  all,  of  unlimited  treasures  in  rub- 
ber, one  of  the  most  important  articles  in  the  world 
of  commerce. 

From  the  southwestern  border  of  the  department 
of  El  Beni,  where  it  is  separated  from  La  Paz  and 
Cochabamba  by  the  foothills  of  the  Royal  Range,  to 
the  eastern  and  northern  limits,  where  it  is  divided 
from  Brazil  by  the  Guapore  River  and  from  the  Terri- 
torio  de  Colonias  by  the  Beni,  the  climate  and  products 
of  this  fertile  zone  vary  greatly.  This  fact  accounts 
for  the  conflicting  stories  which  are  heard  regarding 
the  country.  Explorers  and  prospectors  who  travel 
in  the  western  and  southern  part  of  the  department,  in 
the  region  of  Rurrenabaque,  Santa  Ana,  and  Trinidad 
are  generally  enthusiastic  about  the  climate  and  great 
fertility  of  the  soil  for  the  purposes  of  agriculture,  while 
those  who  make  the  rubber  forests  their  chief  destina- 
tion frequently  complain  that  the  climate  is  unhealthy  and 
the  country  an  undesirable  place  to  live  in.  In  reality, 
the  Beni,  as  it  is  popularly  called,  includes  all  kinds  of  climate  and  every  description  of  natural 
conditions.  It  covers  an  area  of  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  thousand  square  kilometres. 


THE  RUBBER  GATHERER  AT  WORK, 
EL  BENI. 


4G 


4i6 


BOLIVIA 


and  is  divided  into  four  provinces:  Cercado,  of  which  the  department  capital,  Trinidad,  is 
the  chief  city:  Yacuma,  with  its  capital,  Santa  Ana,  near  the  junction  of  the  Yacuma  River 


MISSION  OF  COVENDO  ON  THE  BENI  RIVER. 


with  the  Mamore;  Itenez,  of  which  the  capital  is  Magdalena,  on  the  San  Miguel,  or  Itonamas, 
River,  a few  leagues  south  of  its  junction  with  the  Guapore;  and  Vaca  Diez,  with  its  capital, 
Riberalta,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Madre  de  Dios  and  Beni  Rivers,  near  the  extreme  northern 
limit  of  the  department.  Each  of  these  provinces  has  its  distinguishing  features. 

In  every  department  of  Bolivia  the  province  in  which  the  capital  is  situated  is  called 
Cercado,  equivalent  to  “environs,”  and,  as  a rule,  it  is  the  most  populous  of  the  provincial 
divisions.  The  Cercado  of  the  Beni  is  sometimes  called  the  province  of  Mojos,  the  name 
by  which  the  whole  department  was  known  when  it  constituted  a dependency  of  the 
Audiencia  of  Cliarcas.  When  Gonzalo  Pizarro  and  his  followers  made  explorations  in  this 
region  soon  after  the  conquest,  they  found  it  inhabited  by  Indians  of  the  Mojos  tribes,  and 
the  founder  of  Trinidad,  Don  Pedro  de  Zuniga  y Velasco,  brother  of  the  Count  of  Nieva, 
chose  the  site  for  the  town  on  the  spot  where  prehistoric  ruins  marked  the  former  existence 
of  a palace,  which,  the  Indians  explained,  had  once  been  the  residence  of  “the  Great  Mojo.” 
As  the  town  was  founded  on  Trinity  Sunday,  in  the  year  1^62,  it  was  given  the  name  of 
Santisima  Trinidad,  though,  when  El  Beni  was  created  a departirient  in  1842,  its  capital  was 
named  simply  Trinidad.  The  principal  means  of  transportation  in  this,  as  in  all  the  other 
provinces  of  the  Beni,  is  by  river  boats,  and  travellers  who  wish  to  go  to  Trinidad  find  the 
best  route  by  way  of  Cochabamba.  A very  interesting  book,  written  to  describe  a journey 
made  to  the  Acre  territory  in  1900  by  a military  commission  under  the  command  of  the 
present  president  of  the  republic,  General  Montes,  then  colonel  of  the  army  and  minister  of 


EL  BENI,  THE  BOLITIAN  EL  DORADO 


417 


war,  gives  an  excellent  idea  of  this  region  of  the  Beni.  The  author,  Don  Jose  Aguirre  Acha, 
was  one  of  the  officers  of  the  commission,  and  his  vivid  picture  of  the  territory  and  its 
people  has  the  double  merit  of  being  accurate  and  entertaining.  After  leaving  the  city  of 
Cochabamba,  the  usual  route  lies  through  the  Yungas,  or  Yuracares,  to  the  north  as  far  as 
the  river  San  Antonio,  a branch  of  the  Chapare,  which  is  navigable  for  small  canoes  only; 
larger  craft  do  not  ascend  the  Chapare  beyond  the  river  port  of  Santa  Rosa,  on  the  boundary 
between  the  departments  of  Cochabamba  and  El  Beni.  The  small  canoes  which  are  used 
on  the  San  Antonio  and  other  streams  of  this  vicinity  are  generally  the  property  of  the 
Yuracare  Indians,  who  carry  passengers  down  the  river  or  across  to  the  opposite  bank. 
They  are  summoned  by  the  discharge  of  a gun,  which  brings  the  Indian  quickly  to  the  spot. 
The  Yuracare  boatman  wears  a single  short  garment  which  is  called  a tipoy,  though,  unlike 
the  Paraguayan  dress  of  that  name,  it  is  not  white  in  color,  and  is  very  heavy,  being  made 
of  a kind  of  fibrous  bark.  It  covers  the  body  and  shoulders  only,  leaving  the  arms  and  legs 
bare.  From  the  port  of  Santa  Rosa,  the  canoes  which  the  Yuracares  use  in  descending  the 
river  Chapare  to  the  Mamore  are  longer  and  heavier  than  those  of  other  small  rivers  in 
the  Beni,  and  measure  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  in  length  and  five  feet  in  width.  They  are 
made  of  the  trunks  of  trees,  which  are  hollowed  by  burning  them  out.  Five  Indians  are 


THE  ACRE  DELEGATION  LEAVING  TRINIDAD,  EL  BENI. 


usually  employed  in  rowing  one  of  these  boats,  while  a pilot  stands  at  the  stern  to  direct  its 
course.  Sehor  Aguirre  Acha  says  that  one  of  these  primitive  canoes  will  carry  more  than 


BOLIVIA 


distance. 


INDIAN  CARRIERS  CUTTING  A PATH  THROUGH  THE  FOREST,  EL  BENI. 


CALLAF’OS  CARRYING  PASSENGERS  AND  CARGO  ON  THE  BENI  RIVER. 


five  thousand  pounds 
of  cargo.  Larger  boats, 
called  bateloiies,  are 
sometimes  used  for 
heavy  cargo,  and  are 
very  common  on  the 
rivers  of  eastern  Beni. 
They  carry  four  times  as 
much  as  the  canoes  just 
mentioned,  and  measure 
about  twenty-five  feet 
long  by  eight  feet  wide 
and  about  three  feet  in 
average  depth.  They 
are  of  more  complicated 
construction  also,  and 

have  a space  protected  by  an  awning.  The  scenery  of  this  region  is  intensely  tropical,  the 
rivers  being  bordered  to  the  water’s  edge  by  palm  trees  and  ferns.  At  the  junction  of 
the  Chapare  with  the  Chimore,  a navigable  river  at  the  headwaters  of  which  is  situated  a 
port  that  will  soon  be  connected  by  railway  with  the  city  of  Cochabamba,  the  river  takes 
the  name  of  Mamorecillo,  or  little  Mamore,  and  from  this  point  the  traffic  steadily  increases, 
canoes,  hatdoncs,  and  other  craft  passing  one  another  in  rapid  succession.  The  balsa  is 
frequently  seen,  as  well  as  the  callapo,  which  is  made  by  joining  two  or  three  balsas  together. 
Alligators  abound  in 
these  waters,  and  par- 
rots of  brilliant  plumage 
are  seen  everywhere. 

Fish  of  great  variety  and 
infinite  abundance  are 
found  here,  and  many 
species  of  small  game 
afford  entertainment  for 
sportsmen.  The  Rio 
Grande  enters  the  Ma- 
more,  or  rather  the  Ma- 
morecillo, a few  leagues 
below  Trinidad,  deepen- 
ing and  widening  the 
latter  for  a considerable 


EL  BENI,  THE  BOLIHIAN  EL  DORADO 


419 


A CAMP  IN  THE  RUBBER  FOREST,  EL  BENI. 


The  city  of  Trinidad,  the  capital  of  the  Beni,  is  situated  a few  miles  distant  from  the 
main  current  of  the  Mamore,  near  a small  tributary,  the  Ibary.  The  city  has  about  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  though  its  population  varies  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  depending 
chiefly  on  transient  passengers  to  and  from  the  rubber  regions.  It  is  the  great  highway  for 
all  traffic  from  Cochabamba  and  Santa  Cruz  to  the  Madeira  River  ports.  The  many  small 
steamboats  which  ply  up  and  down  the  Mamore  call  at  Trapiche,  which  is  an  adiianilla  and 
the  port  of  Trinidad,  the  town  itself  being  situated  two  leagues  from  the  river.  As  the  chief 
interest  of  its  citizens,  as  well  as  transient  visitors,  is  centred  in  the  rubber  country,  little 
attention  has  hitherto  been  paid  to  public  improvements  or  to  the  beautifying  of  the  town, 
though  a spirit  of  enterprise  has  recently  developed  in  its  people  which  promises  well  for 
future  progress. 

The  province  of  Yacuma  has  the  magnificent  climate  of  the  Yungas  in  its  southern 
extremity,  the  heat  gradually  becoming  more  excessive  toward  the  north  where  its  rich 
rubber  lands  adjoin  those  of  the  neighboring  province  of  Vaca  Diez.  Through  the  port  of 
Rurrenabaque,  in  Yacuma,  on  the  Beni  River,  large  shipments  of  cacao,  cocoa,  tobacco,  and 
other  products  are  made  annually,  the  Beni  being  one  of  the  most  favored  regions  in  the 
world  for  the  cultivation  of  cacao.  The  chocolate  made  from  the  cacao  of  the  Beni  requires 
no  foreign  flavor,  such  as  vanilla  and  cinnamon,  which  are  frequently  used  in  its  manufac- 
ture from  cacao  of  an  inferior  quality.  It  is  equal  to  the  best  in  the  world.  Cacao  trees  in 
the  Beni  require  little  cultivation,  they  bear  within  four  years  after  planting  and  are  most 


420 


BOLIVIA 


prolit'ic  when  ten  or  twelve  years  old.  They  yield  two  crops  annually,  the  best  districts 
producing  from  thirty  to  forty  pounds  of  cacao  per  tree.  With  greater  attention  this  industry 
would  provide  a very  important  source  of  revenue  to  Bolivia,  which  is  exporting  the  article 
in  increasing  quantities  every  year.  Another  industry  of  promising  future  is  tobacco  growing, 
which  is  extremely  profitable  in  this  department.  Several  varieties  are  cultivated,  such  as 
“Havana,”  “black  Havana,”  “Criollo,”  “lettuce  leaf,”  and  “ox  tongue,”  but  the  production 
is  insignificant  compared  with  the  possibilities  for  development.  The  annual  yield  of  all 
tobacco  plantations  of  Bolivia  is  estimated  at  three  million  five  hundred  thousand  pounds, 
the  Beni  supplying  only  a small  share  of  the  output,  but  the  exportation  does  not  exceed 
fifty  thousand  pounds. 

The  greatest  industry  of  the  Beni  is  rubber  gathering,  which  is  carried  on  in  every 
province,  chiefly  along  the  courses  of  the  Beni  River  and  its  tributaries.  All  through  the 
upper  Beni  the  trees  are  found,  and  new  companies  are  constantly  being  organized  for  the 
purpose  of  further  exploring  this  region  and  getting  possession  of  valuable  rubber-producing 
districts.  A special  law  governs  the  acquirement  of  rubber  lands  in  Bolivia,  rubber  trees 
being  the  property  of  the  state.  Everybody,  foreign  and  native  alike,  has  the  right  to  exploit 
the  uncultivated  bosqnes  in  which  these  valuable  trees  are  found,  the  discoverer  of  trees 
having  the  preferred  right  to  ownership,  providing  that  he  presents  his  petition  for  the  conces- 
sion before  the  competent  authority  within  one  hundred  and  eighty  days  after  the  discovery. 
The  Delegado  Nacional  of  the  Territorio  de  Colonias  and  the  prefects  of  the  departments 


CARRYING  PROVISIONS  TO  THE  RUBBER  CAMP,  EL  BENI. 


EL  BENI,  THE  BOLIHIAN  EL  DORADO  421 

have  authority  to  adju- 
dicate as  much  as  five 
hundred  estradas,  or 
paths,  to  each  individual, 

— the  rubber  properties 
being  divided  into  paths 
to  which  the  trees  on 
eacli  side  for  a certain 
distance  belong, — and 
one  thousand  estradas 
to  a legally  organized 
company.  Petitions  for 
a larger  concession  can 
only  be  granted  by  Con- 
gress. Every  conces- 
sionary must  pay  the 
sum  of  fifteen  bolivianos 
for  each  estrada,  at  the 
rate  of  one  boliviano 
annually  for  fifteen  years,  in  order  to  establish  his  claim  to  the  property,  under  penalty  of 
losing  all  rights,  though  the  total  payment  may  be  made  before  the  expiration  of  the  fifteen 
years  if  preferred.  The  estrada  is  comprised  in  a group  of  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  rubber  trees.  The  roads  which  lead  to  the  rubber  properties  are  free  to  the  public, 
as  well  as  navigation  on  the  rivers  and  the  use  of  the  basques  on  the  river  banks.  The  work- 
man in  the  rubber  forests  is  not  merely  a laborer  for  hire,  but  exercises  the  privileges  of  an 
explorer  and  contractor,  who,  when  he  finds  new  trees,  marks  them  as  his  own  and  contracts 
for  the  sale  of  them  or  for  their  exploitation.  In  addition  to  the  high  price  he  gets  for  his  daily 
labor  and  for  his  discoveries,  usually  receiving  all  amounts  in  gold,  his  employer  provides 
him  with  food  and  other  necessaries  at  a reasonable  price.  The  improvidence  of  rubber 
gatherers  is  proverbial,  however,  and  many  of  them  spend  their  money  before  it  is  earned. 

The  rubber  trees  of  the  Upper  Beni  average  eight  feet  in  height  and  two  feet  in  diameter, 
though  trees  are  occasionally  met  with  which  tower  up  to  a hundred  feet  high  and  are 
more  than  three  feet  thick.  A distinctive  feature  of  these  rubber  trees  is  that  they  have  no 
branches  except  at  the  top,  and  the  bright  green  of  their  leaves,  with  the  reddish  color  which 
the  new  leaves  show,  makes  the  trees  easily  distinguishable  at  a distance,  especially  when 
they  appear  in  groups.  The  moisture  by  which  the  tree  is  sustained  and  which  is  so  neces- 
sary for  the  production  of  its  latex,  as  the  rubber  sap  is  called,  is  received  in  part  from  the 
soil,  but  chiefly  from  the  atmosphere,  the  tree  drinking  in  through  its  trunk  and  branches 
the  humidity  which  is  permanently  conserved  in  the  air  by  the  deep  shade  of  the  basque. 
Sehor  E.  Gonzales,  of  one  of  the  large  rubber  companies  of  Bolivia,  has  made  many 


VIEW  NEAR  SUAPI  CENTRAL,  UPPER  BENI. 


422 


BOLIVIA 


interesting  observations  regarding  this  fact  in  the  rubber  forests  of  his  company,  which 
extend  over  a territory  of  about  four  million  acres  at  Suapi  Central,  in  the  Upper  Beni. 
According  to  his  statement  the  rubber  trees,  whatever  their  size  and  the  locality  in  which 
they  are  found,  when  tapped  for  the  first  time  give  only  a few  drops  of  latex,  the  flow 
increasing  little  by  little  with  repeated  incisions,  and  being  at  first  so  very  dense  that  it  is 
coagulated  by  contact  with  the  air,  even  when  the  trees  are  tapped  at  the  height  of  the  rainy 
season.  If  the  production  of  the  new  trees  growing  in  distinct  regions  is  compared,  as,  for 
instance,  in  the  dry  part  of  Suapi  Central  and  in  the  more  humid  section  of  San  Miguel,  it  is 
found  that  a greater  quantity  of  latex  is  taken  from  the  trees  in  the  moist  atmosphere  than 
in  the  dry.  However  great  the  amount  of  rainfall  may  be,  little  moisture  is  retained  in  the 
ground  because  of  the  impenetrable  character  of  the  soil,  which  is  of  chalky  composition. 
Furthermore,  on  the  steep  slopes  of  the  qitehradas  in  the  Upper  Beni  the  water  from  rainfalls 
does  not  remain  long  enough  to  sink  into  the  ground,  but  is  immediately  carried  down 
innumerable  streams,  every  crevice  being  converted  into  a river  course  during  the  rainy 
season.  In  the  Lower  Beni,  on  the  other  hand,  the  trees  remain  submerged  in  water  for 
months  at  a time,  the  land,  which  is  composed  of  mud  to  a depth  of  several  metres,  retaining 
an  enormous  amount  of  moisture.  The  quantity  of  latex  produced  bears  no  relation  to  the 
period  of  rainfall,  but  only  to  the  density  of  moisture  of  the  atmosphere.  The  average 
amount  of  latex  collected  by  tapping  is  the  same  on  the  plains  along  a river  course  as  on 
the  cni/ibres,  or  summits,  of  the  hills.  After  a rubber  tree  is  cut  down,  its  leaves  remain 


NAVIGATION  ON  THE  UPPER  BENI. 


EL  BENI,  THE  BOLIHIAN  EL  DORADO 


423 


RUBBER  TREES,  EL  BENI. 


fresh  for  about  fifteen  days,  little  by  little  losing  their  color  from  that  time  until  they  finally 
die  and  drop  off.  The  life  of  the  trunk  of  the  tree  seems  concentrated  in  the  upper  part,  to 
such  an  extent  that  if  tapped  in  the  middle  it  yields  no  latex,  only  the  extreme  branches 
containing  a thick  sap.  Even  when  the  tree  has  apparently  succumbed,  and  the  insects  are 
already  destroying  it,  two  days’  rain  will  work  a wonderful  change,  the  renewed  moisture 
of  the  atmosphere  causing  the  latex  to  issue  in  a cream  color  from  all  the  incisions  and  from 
the  holes  bored  by  the  insects.  An  examination  of  rubber  trees  which  are  completely 
exposed  to  the  sun,  not  surrounded  by  other  trees  or  entwined  by  ivy,  shows  that,  in  spite  of 
heavy  rains  and  repeated  tappings  at  different  heights,  only  a few  drops  of  yellowish  latex  is 
secured,  and  this  of  such  thick  consistency  that  it  coagulates  immediately. 

The  first  tapping  is  done  in  the  months  of  October,  November,  December,  January, 
and  February.  The  trees  then  rest  during  March,  the  second  tapping  season  includ- 
ing the  months  of  April,  May,  June,  and  July,  after  which  the  trees  rest  again  during 
August  and  September.  The  process  of  treating  the  tatex  by  smoking  it,  twirling  it  around 
a stick  until  it  solidifies  in  the  form  of  a ball  about  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  which  is  called 
a bolaclia,  is  very  well  known.  In  the  Lower  Beni  the  seasons  for  collecting  rubber  are 
shorter  than  in  regions  higher  up  the  river  courses,  because  of  heavier  rains  and  floods. 

There  are  vast  tracts  of  rubber  lands  in  the  Beni  which  have  never  been  explored,  and  the 
present  annual  output  of  Bolivian  rubber,  which  amounts  to  nearly  three  thousand  tons,  will 
be  greatly  increased  as  new  rubber  districts  are  developed.  The  value  of  the  rubber  exported 
annually  averages  about  half  a million  pounds  sterling.  But,  although  this  industry  absorbs 
the  chief  attention  of  all  who  live  in  the  Beni,  and  attracts  new  investments  constantly,  yet 


424 


BOLIVIA 


■ GRAN  CRUZ  HACIENDA  AT  THE  CONFLUENCE  OF  THE  MAMORE  AND  BENI  RIVERS. 


it  has  not  entirely  prevented  the  development  of  other  forest  industries.  Considerable 
capital  is  employed  in  the  exploitation  of  hardwoods,  medicinal  plants,  and  spices.  From  all 
the  provinces,  through  the  ports  of  Trinidad,  Santa  Ana,  Magdalena,  and  Riberalta,  large 
quantities  of  mahogany,  rosewood,  ebony,  cedar,  logwood,  gum,  cork,  and  other  products  of 
the  tropical  forests  are  shipped  down  the  Madeira  River  and  via  the  Amazon  to  foreign  markets. 
There  are  few  countries  in  the  world  possessing  a greater  variety  of  commercial  products. 


COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  EL  BENI. 


RIVER  BOAT,  OR  CALLAPO,  ON  THE  MADRE  DE  DIOS,  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONIAS. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 


THE  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONIAS— THE  BOUNDARY  LINE  WITH  BRAZIL— CHIEF 

WATERWAYS 


DY  Bolivia’s  recent  treaty  with  Brazil  an  exchange 
^ of  territory  was  made  between  the  two  coun- 
tries in  accordance  with  which  tlie  Bolivian  boundary 
was  extended  in  one  direction  and  cut  off  in  another: 
and,  as  the  areas  exchanged  were  not  equivalent,  an 
indemnity  of  two  million  pounds  sterling  was,  as 
previously  stated,  paid  by  Brazil  in  settlement  of  the 
negotiation.  In  conformity  with  this  treaty,  which 
was  signed  at  Petropolis,  Brazil,  November  17,  1903, 
by  Sehores  Don  Fernando  E.  Guachalla  and  Don 
Claudio  Pinilla  on  the  part  of  Bolivia,  and  by  Baron  de 
Rio  Branco  and  Don  Jose  Francisco  de  Assis-Brazil 
on  the  part  of  Brazil,  the  boundary  line  between  the 
Territorio  de  Colonias,  on  the  northern  frontier  of 
Bolivia,  and  Brazil  is  definitely  established:  on  the 
eastern  boundary,  the  Territorio  is  separated  from 
Brazil  by  the  Madeira  River,  from  the  confluence  of 
the  Beni  and  Guapore  Rivers  northward  to  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Madeira  and  Abuna  Rivers.  The 
northern  boundary  line  of  the  Territorio  extends  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Abuna  upward  along  its  course  to 
latitude  ten  degrees  twenty  minutes,  this  latitude 
marking  the  limit  as  it  extends  westward  until  the 
Rapiiran,  or  Ina,  River  is  reached,  when  the  dividing  line  ascends  the  course  of  that  river  to 
its  main  tributary,  then  turns  due  westward  to  the  Iquiry,  which  it  ascends  to  the  source, 

again  turning  westward  till  it  meets  the  Acre,  or  Aquiry  River,  which  it  ascends  to  latitude 

427 


A CHOZA,  THE  HUT  OF  THE  RUBBER 
GATHERERS. 


428 


BOLIVIA 


THE  KNAUDT  EXPEDITION  TO  PUERTO  PANDO  IN  CAMP. 


eleven  degrees,  continuing  along  this  line  of  latitude  to  the  frontier  of  Peru.  On  its  western 
boundary,  theTerritorio  de  Colonias  joins  Peru,  and  its  southern  limit  is  marked  by  the  course 
of  the  Madre  de  Dios  River,  which  separates  it  from  the  neighboring  department  of  La  Paz. 

The  Madeira  River,  with  its  tributaries,  famous  for  valuable  rubber  forests,  is  the  longest 
and  the  most  important  of  the  Amazon  branches.  Historically  and  commercially  it  is  of 
particular  interest.  For  centuries  it  has  been  an  object  of  investigation  by  scientific  explorers, 
and  a landmark  in  the  progress  of  civilization,  its  course  directing  the  itinerary  of  geographers, 
naturalists,  and  missionaries,  who  have  furthered  the  cause  of  knowledge  and  truth  by  their 
labors  in  this  remote  field.  Almost  every  book  of  travel,  history,  or  botany  which  treats  of 
tropical  America  contains  some  reference  to  the  scenery,  resources,  tlora,  and  fauna,  as  well 
as  to  the  native  inhabitants,  of  the  Madeira  region,  and  especially  of  that  part  which  is 
watered  by  its  great  tributary  the  Beni,  and  by  the  abundant  affluents  of  that  mighty  stream. 
The  Madeira  is  formed  by  the  continence  of  the  Beni  with  the  Mamore  at  the  port  of  Villa 
Bella,  where  these  two  rivers  together  pour  out  a volume  of  thirty  thousand  cubic  feet  of 
water  per  minute,  the  Beni  being  about  half  a mile  broad  and  the  Mamore  a little  less,  at  the 
point  of  entering  the  Madeira. 

Villa  Bella  is  a picturesque  little  city  of  a thousand  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  triangular 
playa,  or  bank,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Beni  and  Mamore  Rivers.  It  stands  at  an 
altitude  of  five  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  and  its  climate  is  agreeable  and  healthful, 
modified  by  cooling  breezes.  The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  and  cut  one  another  at 
right  angles,  those  which  run  east  and  west  extending  right  across  the  pliya  from  one  river 


THE  TERRITOR/O  DE  COLONIHS 


429 


bank  to  the  other.  All  the  houses  are  of  one  story,  and  the  walls  are  built  of  reeds,  called 
chachios,  which  are  set  up  in  rows  and  bound  together  at  intervals  with  interlacing  cords  or 
fibres,  the  roofs  being  made  of  palm  leaves.  The  richer  people  have  their  dwellings  finished 
with  a thin  coating  of  plaster  inside,  which  admits  of  being  papered  over  or  covered  with 
muslin  as  an  adornment  and  a guarantee  of  greater  privacy.  A Bolivian  writer  very  amus- 
ingly describes  what  he  calls  the  transparency  of  social  life  in  Villa  Bella,  in  contrast  to  the 
rigorous  custom  of  other  cities,  where  the  thickest  walls  and  most  carefully  barred  windows 
conceal  both  the  virtues  and  the  defects  of  social  modesty.  The  spectacle  of  this  interesting 
town  is  unique,  especially  at  the  height  of  the  rubber-gathering  season,  when  the  bdteloiies, 
which  carry  rubber  from  the  Beni  and  Guapore  regions  down  to  San  Antonio  on  the  Madeira, 
in  Brazil,  are  ranged  along  the  sandy  phij’a,  awaiting  inspection.  These  boats  are  employed 
to  descend  the  nineteen  cachiielas,  or  rapids,  including  Theotonio,  Riberon,  and  others,  which 
altogether  constitute  a fall  of  two  hundred  feet  in  a distance  of  a little  more  than  a hundred 
miles,  between  Villa  Bella  and  San  Antonio.  From  San  Antonio  steamers  and  sailing  ships 
transport  the  rubber  to  foreign  countries.  By  the  terms  of  the  recent  treaty  with  Bolivia, 
the  government  of  Brazil  agrees  to  build,  on  Brazilian  territory,  a railway  which  will  extend 


A BATELON  ON  THE  MADRE  DE  DIOS. 


430 


BOLiyiA 


from  San  Antonio  to  Guayara- 
meiim,  a few  leagues  south 
of  Villa  Bella,  on  the  Mamore 
River,  above  the  cachuela,  or 
falls,  of  the  same  name,  the 
railway  to  have  a branch  line 
to  Villa  Bella. 

Although  Villa  Bella  is  the 
largest  port  of  theTerritorio  de 
Colonias,  it  is  no  longer  the  last 
Bolivian  port  on  the  northern 
border  of  the  republic,  the  new 
boundary  settlement  making 
the  town  ot  Abuna,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Abuna  and  the 
Madeira  Rivers,  the  frontier  port.  The  river  Abuna,  which  now  forms  part  of  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  republic,  is  a picturesque  and  abundant  stream,  overhung  by  the  foliage  of 
tropical  trees  and  vines,  and  presenting  an  interesting  aspect  as  the  canoes  and  cargo  boats 
ply  up  and  down  its  winding  course.  Several  rapids  occur  at  intervals  to  impede  naviga- 
tion, and  the  river  is  not  a favorite  with  travellers,  who  tell  thrilling  stories  of  adventure  in 
its  each  It  das,  and  of  narrow  escapes  from  death  as  a result  of  wounds  from  its  dangerously 
armed  fishes,  or  shocks  from  its  electric  eels.  It  is  not  unusual  for  an  incautious  swimmer 
to  be  paralyzed  by  the  electricity  which  the  eel  discharges,  especially  when  aroused  by  fear 
or  anger.  Sehor  Don  Jose  Manuel  Aponte,  who  accompanied  the  government  delegation  to 
the  Acre  in  1901,  describes  the  many  dangers  encountered  from  the  rayas,  caimaucs,palonietas, 
and  other  habitants  of  this  river.  The  forests  of  the  Abuna  are  particularly  rich  in  rubber 
trees,  and  along  its  banks  paths  may  be  seen  to  cross  one  another  in  all  directions,  indicating 
the  many  cstradas  that  are  under  exploitation.  The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Abuna  are  the 
Rapirran,  the  Caramanu,  and  the  Rio  Negro,  all  of  which  are,  like  the  main  river,  rich  in 
rubber  trees.  The  Iquiry  River,  a branch  of  the  Purus,  rises  in  the  Territorio  de  Colonias, 
and  flows  through  that  part  of  it  which  is  generally  known  as  the  Acre  district,  the  Acre 
River  running  in  a parallel  line  with  the  Iquiry  for  a considerable  distance.  All  this  region  is 
prodigiously  rich  in  rubber  of  superior  quality,  the  name  “Acre  rubber”  being  considered  a 
guarantee  of  the  best  article.  A number  of  small  towns  are  scattered  along  the  courses  of 
the  rivers,  usually  marking  the  site  of  a valuable  property  belonging  either  to  some  private 
individual  or  to  a company,  often  some  foreign  syndicate.  On  all  these  rivers  navigation 
is  more  or  less  impeded  by  frequent  each u das,  that  of  Riosiho  interrupting  the  traffic  on 
the  Acre  near  the  Bolivian  border  at  some  seasons.  The  town  of  Riosiho  lies  just  north  of  the 
recently  established  limits,  Capatara  being  the  nearest  town  to  the  frontier  on  the  Bolivian 
side.  The  Acre  River  is  navigable  throughout  its  course  during  six  months  of  the  year,  from 


THE  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONIAS 


4H 


December  to  May,  and 
steam  launches  from 
Para  make  two  trips 
each  way  at  this  sea- 
son. For  the  remaining 
six  months,  navigation  is 
limited  to  small  hiUioiies 
and  iiioiiteiiiis,  especially 
in  September  and  Octo- 
ber when  the  waterways 
are  practically  useless. 

In  addition  to  the  Abuna, 
the  Iquiry,  and  the  Acre, 
with  their  tributaries,  the 
Orton  River  also  waters  the  central  and  southern  districts  of  the  Territorio.  The  Orton, 
named  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  naturalist,  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Tahuamanu 
and  the  Manuripi,  and  is  navigable  for  steam  launches  during  the  summer  months  only.  It 
flows  into  the  Beni  a few  leagues  below  the  junction  of  that  river  with  the  Madre  de  Dios. 

The  name  Madre  de  Dios,  meaning  “ Mother  of  God,”  was  given  to  this  river  by  the 
Spaniards,  the  Indian  name  being  Amarumayo,  or  “River  of  the  Serpent.”  The  Madre  de 


VIEW  OF  THE  MADEIRA  RIVER,  ISLANDS  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


FORDING  THE  RIVER  PIQUENDO. 


432 


BOLIVIA 


Dios  rises  in  the  Cordillera  de  Vilcanota,  in  Peru,  near  the  source  of  the  Ucayali,  another 
great  tributary  of  the  Amazon,  and  in  its  long  course  to  the  Beni  it  waters  a territory  covering 
seven  thousand  square  leagues.  It  is  navigable  for  small  boats  almost  throughout  its  entire 
length,  and,  in  the  rainy  season,  steam  launches  ascend  from  Riberalta  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Pando,  Chandless,  Inambary,  and  Heath,  its  principal  tributaries.  Few  rivers  of  the  Amazon 
system  have  been  more  thoroughly  explored  within  recent  years  than  the  Madre  de  Dios. 
In  1883  the  Bolivian  government  voted  a sum  of  money  for  its  exploration  and  for  the 
establishment  of  missions  in  that  region,  and  in  1884  Father  Armentia,  now  Bishop  of  La  Paz, 
in  company  with  the  government  delegate,  Sehor  Don  Antenor  Vasquez,  explored  the  river, 
ascending  it  in  a small  boat  as  far  as  latitude  thirteen  degrees  and  longitude  seventy-one 


CONFLUENCE  OF  THE  BENI  AND  MAMORE  RIVERS,  VILLA  BELLA. 


degrees  forty-one  minutes,  where  the  reverend  father  planted  a cross  to  mark  the  limit 
reached.  Without  including  its  navigable  tributaries,  the  Madre  de  Dios  is  a continuous 
waterway  for  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  It  is  not  so  deep  as  the  Beni  or  the 
Mamore.  Within  its  immense  curves,  wide,  sandy  phiycis  are  formed,  the  favorite  haunts  of 
the  turtle,  whose  eggs,  found  in  vast  numbers,  constitute  one  of  the  delicacies  of  this  region. 
Travellers  in  the  Madre  de  Dios  country  must  have  waterproof  clothing  and  waterproof 
coverings  for  their  baggage,  as  the  heavy  rains  play  havoc  with  everything  exposed  to  their 
penetrating  force.  The  present  governor,  the  delcgado  nacional  of  theTerritorio  de  Colonias, 
ex-President  Jose  Manuel  Pando,  explored  the  Madre  de  Dios  River  in  1893,  and  discovered 
the  tributaries  Heath,  Pando,  and  Inambary.  In  1897  he  continued  his  explorations,  ascending 
these  tributaries  to  the  Peruvian  boundary  line. 


THE  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONMS 


433 


Riberaltaisthe 
headquarters  for 
most  of  the  ex- 
peditions up  the 
Beni  and  Madrede 
Dios  Rivers.  Like 
Villa  Bella,  it  over- 
looks the  contin- 
ence of  two  rivers, 
— the  Beni  and  the 
Madre  de  Dios, — 
and  the  name, 
Riberalta,  “ high 
bank,”  indicates 
the  position  it  oc- 
cupies on  the  ele- 
vated cliff  border- 
ing the  river  Beni. 


A long  avenue  river  port  of  guarayos. 

crosses  the  town, 

flanking  which  a row  of  houses  is  ranged  in  uniform  style  overlooking  the  confluence,  the 
view  of  the  Madre  de  Dios  being  rendered  additionally  picturesque  by  a beautiful  island 
embowered  in  verdure.  Steam  propellers  and  side-wheel  launches  are  used  in  these  rivers, 
the  mail  steamer  Taluianhiiiii  being  fitted  up  with  convenient  accommodations.  From 
La  Paz  to  Riberalta,  the  present  route  via  Puerto  Pando  offers  many  difficulties,  but  it  is  being 


SCENE  ON  THE  MAMORE  RIVER,  NEAR  VILLA  BELLA. 


434 


BOLIVIA 


constantly  improved,  and  the  trip  may  be  made  entirely  by  steamer  from  Puerto  Pando, 
where  the  Bopi  River  enters  the  Beni,  small  balsas,  callapos,  monterias,  gariteas,  and  batelones 
being  used  on  the  upper  streams.  Numerous  expeditions  have  recently  made  the  journey, 
and  a new  bridle  road  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  extent  now  connects  La  Paz 
with  Puerto  Pando,  greatly  facilitating  this  part  of  the  trip.  From  Puerto  Pando  northward 
the  Beni  River  has  several  short  rapids  and  falls  which  impede  navigation,  especially  at  the 
points  known  as  Chepite,  Bala,  and  Atamarani,  after  which  the  route  is  clear  as  far  as 
Rurrenabaque,  the  most  important  port  of  the  Upper  Beni.  Situated  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river  is  San  Buenaventura,  also  a thriving  shipping  port.  Continuing  down  the  river,  the 
next  port  is  Salinas,  a short  distance  below  the  rapids  of  Atamarani.  From  Rurrenabaque  to 


CAMP  OF  RUBBER  GATHERERS,  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONIAS. 


Puerto  Salinas  the  voyage  is  made  in  callapos,  the  steamer  again  receiving  passengers  at  the 
latter  port  for  Guarayos,  Carmen,  and  other  points  until  Riberalta  is  reached.  From  Guarayos 
down  the  river  many  rubber  establishments  are  passed,  both  banks  being  marked  at  short 
intervals  by  signs  of  the  rubber  industry. 

As  before  stated,  Riberalta  is  the  distributing  point  for  the  great  rubber  region  of  the 
Territorio  de  Colonias.  From  this  port  to  the  mouth  of  the  Orton  River  is  twenty  miles,  and 
eighty  miles  below  are  encountered  the  rapids  of  Esperanza,  after  passing  which  the  river 
extends  twenty  miles  further,  when  the  port  of  Villa  Bella  is  reached,  and  the  Beni  loses  its 
course  in  the  great  Madeira.  From  La  Paz  to  Villa  Bella  the  distance  is  about  nine  hundred 
miles.  Eight  days  are  required  for  the  trip  from  Villa  Bella  to  Puerto  Pando;  and  as  soon 


THE  TERRITORIO  DE  COLONE4S 


43S 


as  the  railway  is  finished  from  Puerto  Pando  to  La  Paz,  the  entire  journey  can  be  jmade  in 
nine  days.  A road  has  been  opened  from  Puerto  Pando  to  Rurrenabaque  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  Beni,  and  from  Rurrenabaque  to  Atamarani  a road  is  also  being  built.  It 
is  the  intention  of  the  Bolivian  government  to  contribute  by  every  possible  means  to  the 
development  of  all  this  part  of  the  country,  and  to  facilitate  colonization,  especially  in  the 
Territorio  de  Colonias.  A new  hospital  is  under  construction,  and  means  of  improving  sani- 
tary conditions  are  eagerly  considered.  The  climate,  though  tropical,  is,  with  the  exception 
of  a few  localities,  generally  healthful. 

In  the  rubber  country  the  work  of  the  day  is  done  in  the  early  morning.  During  the 
epoca  de  fabrko,  as  the  season  for  gathering  is  called,  the  workmen  are  already  on  their  way 
to  the  estradas  by  four  o’clock.  As  they  pass  each  rubber  tree  on  their  route,  they  stop  to 


TRANSHIPPING  CARGO  AT  THE  RAPIDS  OF  THEOTONIO,  ON  THE  MADEIRA  RIVER. 


make  a slanting  cut  in  its  trunk,  into  which  the  edge  of  one  of  their  little  tin  iichclas  is  easily 
fastened,  so  the  cup  remains  there  and  receives  the  latex  that  slowly  pours  into  it,  while 
they  continue  their  way  until  every  tree  of  the  estrada  has  been  tapped  and  its  iichela  put  in 
place.  Some  large  trees  have  two  or  three,  and  even  four,  iichekis  attached.  By  about  nine 
o’clock  in  the  morning  this  work  is  finished,  and  the  seiiiigiiero,  as  the  rubber  gatherer  is 
called,  returns  over  the  same  route,  carrying  a large  pail,  into  which  he  pours  the  contents 
of  the  Uclielas.  When  he  reaches  his  hut,  he  proceeds  at  once  to  smoke  the  latex  until  it 
takes  the  solid  form  of  a bolacha,  as  elsewhere  described.  Sometimes  the  gatherings  of 
several  days  are  required  to  make  a bolacha  of  a hundred  pounds,  more  or  less,  and  when  it 
is  completed  the  patron,  or  employer,  sends  to  get  it.  The  day’s  work  is  ended  at  noon,  and 
the  seringiiero  is  free  to  spend  the  remaining  hours  as  he  pleases.  The  industrious  ones 


4^6 


BOLIVIA 


cultivate  their  little  gardens,  where  they  grow  corn,  plantains,  yucca,  and  other  food  products. 
It  is  said  that  the  women  of  this  region  are  better  rubber  gatherers  than  the  men,  as  they 
are  more  careful,  do  not  cut  too  deeply  into  the  tree  when  tapping  it,  are  less  wasteful  of  the 
latex,  and  never  abscond,  as  the  men  sometimes  do,  when  they  are  in  debt  to  the  patron. 
The  life  of  the  rubber  gatherers  is  not  so  triste  as  it  is  sometimes  painted.  The  people  have 
many  holidays  here,  as  elsewhere,  and  when  the  daily  working  hours  are  over  they  fre- 
quently spend  the  rest  of  their  time  in  little  canoes  on  the  river  or  stretched  comfortably  in 
a hammock  under  the  trees. 

Nearly  two-thirds  of  the  rubber  exported  annually  from  Bolivia  is  produced  in  the 
Territorio  de  Colonias,  one  of  the  richest  rubber  countries  of  the  world.  And  the  quantity 
which  is  taken  out  of  its  vast  forests  represents  only  a small  proportion  of  the  existing 
wealth.  The  industry  is  restricted  by  the  scarcity  of  laborers,  the  population  being  only 
ten  thousand,  in  a territory  that  covers  an  area  of  nearly  two  hundred  thousand  square 
kilometres.  The  few  explorers  who  have  travelled  in  this  region  find  it  rich  in  a variety  of 
tropical  products,  though  little  cultivated,  and  very  sparsely  settled,  the  population  being 
centred  in  the  towns  and  villages  where  the  rubber  gatherers  live,  or  where  there  are  estab- 
lishments of  large  rubber  companies,  many  of  which  have  their  shipping  headquarters  here. 

Immigration  and  colonization  are  the  most  important  factors  to  be  sought  in  the  devel- 
opment and  prosperity  of  the  Territorio,  and  the  government  of  Bolivia  is  giving  this  matter 
especial  consideration.  Not  only  are  the  resources  of  the  country  being  carefully  studied 
and  classified,  but  the  means  of  transportation,  the  political  security  of  the  colonists,  and  the 
protection  of  health  are  receiving  the  most  careful  attention. 


GLIMPSE  OF  FOREST  AND  STREAM,  THE  RUBBER  REGION. 


V 


DANCING  THE  KENA-KENA.  FIESTA  OF  DECEMBER  EIGHTH. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 


THE  PRIMITIVE  INHABITANTS  OF  BOLIVIA— THEIR  CUSTOMS  AND  RELIGION— THE 

CHOLO— PICTURESQUE  TYPES 


population  of  Bolivia  is  composed  of  three 
^ separate  social  classes,  the  Bolivians  of  Euro- 
pean ancestry,  the  Indians,  and  the  niesti{os,  or 
cholos,  of  mixed  European  and  Indian  origin.  The 
white  race,  chiefly  of  Spanish  blood,  inherits  many 
qualities  of  the  parent  nation,  though  modified  by 
centuries  of  isolation  from  Spain.  When  the  fabu- 
lous wealth  of  Potosi  attracted  thousands  of  Span- 
iards to  Alto  Peru  during-the  first  century  of  colonial 
rule,  many  of  the  noblest  families  of  Europe  were 
represented  in  the  rapidly  increasing  populations  of 
Potosi,  Oruro,  and  other  rich  mining  centres;  and 
so  important  were  the  interests  of  his  Catholic 
majesty  in  this  part  of  the  royal  domain  that  the 
most  distinguished  grandees  of  the  realm  were  sent 
to  take  charge  of  colonial  affairs,  to  supervise  the 
coinage  in  the  colonial  mint,  and  to  guard  against 
any  evasion  of  the  royal  prerogatives.  The  quarrel 
which  began  early  between  the  Vicunas  and  the 
Vascongados,  and  which  developed  into  a struggle 

INDIAN  WATER  CARRIER  OF  LA  PAZ.  , , /->■,,  i i • f 

between  Criollos  and  Spaniards,  was  sustained,  on 
the  part  of  the  patriotic  Criollos,  by  men  in  whose  veins  flowed  the  best  blood  of  Spain. 
Their  love  for  their  native  land  was  stronger  than  their  allegiance  to  a government  which 
was  unjust  and  oppressive,  and  they  fought  for  and  obtained  their  independence.  Their 
descendants  are  the  people  who  control  the  politics  and  society  of  Bolivia  to-day.  They 
are  in  the  minority  so  far  as  population  is  concerned,  a condition  which  exists  in  all 

439 


440 


BOLIVIA 


Spanish-American  countries.  A similar  state 
of  affairs  governed  the  population  of  the 
United  States  before  the  great  tide  of  immi- 
gration brought  millions  of  Europeans  to  its 
shores,  and  the  native  Indians  were  thus 
reduced  to  the  minority.  But,  unlike  the 
North  American  Indians  who  were  driven 
westward  by  the  advancing  multitude,  until 
crowded  almost  out  of  sight  in  a small  corner 
of  their  former  vast  territory,  the  Indians  of 
Bolivia  still  remain  undisturbed  in  the  haunts 
of  their  ancestors,  whether  of  the  Andean 
plateau,  the  plains  of  Mojos,  or  the  river 
banks  of  Guarany.  They  have  always  been 
too  useful  to  the  white  man  of  these  regions 
to  be  allowed  to  vanish  out  of  sight,  and 
too  submissive  to  constitute  the  powerful 
menace  to  civilization  which  the  Iroquois 
and  the  Apache  proved  to  the  earlier  inhab- 
itants of  North  America.  With  the  exception  of  a few  scattered  tribes,  the  Indians  of  Bolivia 
are  more  or  less  civilized,  and  they  form  an  important  factor  of  the  communities,  not  only  as 


PICTURESQUE  TYPE  OF  THE  COCHABAMBA  INDIAN. 


TEMBETAS,  INDIANS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


THE  PRIMITIHE  INHABITANTS  OE  BOLIVIA 


441 


servants,  but  as  contributors  to  the  development  of  the  native  industries,  in  a primitive  way, 
but  usefully  and  creditably.  A foreign  traveller  in  Bolivia  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed  by 
the  fact  that  the  white  man  here  thoroughly  understands  his  primitive  protege,  and  that  the 
Indians,  as  a whole,  receive  at  the  hands  of  the  governing  race  as  much  consideration  as 
the  ignorant  poor  of  any  land  receive  from  those  who,  by  inherited  or  acquired  power,  hold 
over  their  less  competent  fellowmen  the  rights  of  authority.  The  laws  of  Bolivia  provide 
for  the  welfare  of  the  Indians  in  a liberal  manner,  and  the  best  means  of  promoting  their 
mental  and  moral  development 
is  at  present  occupying  the 
attention  of  the  leading  legis- 
lators of  the  country.  The 
question  as  to  what  should  be 
the  political  responsibility  of  a 
primitive  people,  untrained  in 
independent  thought  and  action, 
is  not  easily  disposed  of,  and 
the  blunders  which  have  been 
committed  by  the  most  enlight- 
ened of  nations  in  this  respect 
prove  how  important  is  the 
problem  presented.  In  Bolivia 
the  Indian  has  evolved  slowly 
but  surely  under  the  influence 
of  civilization,  and  he  shows  an 
awakened  spirit  of  independ- 
ence as  compared  with  his 
ancestors,  who  merely  reflected 
the  will  of  their  chief.  Under 
Spanish  rule,  the  Indian,  though 
nominally  recognized  as  pos- 
sessing certain  individual  rights, 
was  in  reality  seldom  free  to 
exercise  them ; but  since  the  inauguration  of  the  republic  the  law  governing  his  rights  has 
not  been  so  completely  a dead  letter  in  effect.  He  is  still  a child  in  mental  and  moral 
growth,  but  he  is  progressing  under  the  benign  influence  of  peace  and  security. 

The  Indians  of  Bolivia  are  usually  classified  according  to  their  geographical  distribution. 
The  Andean  tribes  are  divided  into  the  Peruvian  branch — which  includes  Aymara  and 
Quichua — and  the  North  Andean,  composed  of  many  nations,  among  others  the  Yuracares, 
Mosetenes,  Tacanas,  Araonas,  Cavinehos,  Chunchos,  Guayaros,  Lecos,  and  Apolistas,  that 
inhabit  the  eastern  sarauias  of  the  northern  Andes  and  the  plains  of  the  Territorio  de 


INDIANS  OF  POTOSI.  HEADGEAR  OF  PIZARRO'S  TIME. 


442 


BOLIVIA 


Colonias,  the  department  of  La 
Paz,  and  El  Beni.  The  Pam- 
pean  tribes  are  divided  into 
the  Mojeha  and  the  Chiquitana 
branches,  and  inhabit  the  great 
plains  of  eastern  Bolivia  in  the 
provinces  of  Mojos  and  Chi- 
quitos,  which  extend  from  the 
foothills  of  the  Andes  to  the  Bra- 
zilian border.  The  third  divi- 
sion is  called  the  Guaranic,  and 
is  subdivided  into  the  Guaraya 
and  Chiriguana  branches  ap- 
parently closely  related  to  the 
Guarany  tribes  of  Paraguay: 
they  occupy  the  territory  in- 
cluded in  the  northern,  central, 
and  southern  Chaco.  The 
above  divisions  are  made  in 
accordance  with  the  scientific 
studies  and  investigations  of 
D’Orbigny  who  devoted  many  years  to  the  subject.  The  Aymara  Indians,  as  is  generally 
known,  occupy  the  territory  surrounding  Lake  Titicaca,  including  the  southern  part  of  the 
department  of  La  Paz  and  all  the  department  of  Oruro;  the  provinces  are  named  after 
the  various  tribes,  Omasuyos,  Pacajes,  Sicasicas,  Larecajas,  Carangas,  and  Yungas.  To  the 
north  and  northwest  their  territory  adjoins  that  of  the  Quichuas  of  Cuzco,  their  southern 
and  southeastern  neighbors  are  the  Quichuas,  or  Charcas,  of  Cochabamba,  Chuquisaca,  and 
Potosi;  to  the  east  and  northeast  are  the  Tacanas,  Apolistas,  and  Mosetenes,  all  popularly 
called  Chunchos;  while  to  the  southwest  the  Aymara  territory  borders  that  of  the  Chinchas 
of  Tarapaca.  The  Aymara  Indian  of  the  present  day  is  a strong,  muscular  native  of  the 
highlands,  of  medium  height,  of  bronze  complexion,  varying  from  the  color  of  the  North 
American  redskin  to  the  darker  brown  of  more  tropical  types,  possessing  well-defined 
features  which  remind  one  of  the  Japanese  race  by  the  slant  of  the  eyes  and  the  high 
cheekbones.  They  are  a reticent  people  and  are  generally  industrious  and  sober,  excepting 
on  the  occasion  of  a grand  ficstj,  when  they  display  characteristics  hardly  recognizable  in 
the  Indian  of  everyday  conditions.  They  are  extremely  religious,  and  devoted  to  the  . 
services  of  the  Church:  at  any  hour  of  the  day  an  Indian  may  be  found  kneeling  before 
the  altar  of  the  virgin  or  of  one  of  the  saints  in  the  churches  of  the  various  towns.  It  is  the 
beautiful  custom  of  the  country  to  keep  the  doors  of  the  churches  always  open,  and  many 
an  Indian  leaves  his  little  drove  of  llamas  as  he  enters  a town  and  goes  to  say  his  prayers 


THE  STIRRUP-CUP. 


THE  PRIMITIl/E  INHABITANTS  OE  BOLIHIA 


443 


and  to  feast  his  eyes  on  the  images  and 
pictures  of  the  sacred  place.  Indian  women 
with  their  babies  swung  on  their  backs,  kneel 
on  the  floor  of  the  church  and  forget  all  their 
troubles  in  contemplation  of  the  holy  sym- 
bols. Children  they  seem  in  all  but  physical 
growth,  after  centuries  of  contact  with  civiliza- 
tion. Limited  opportunity  may  be  responsible 
to  some  extent,  but  natural  conditions  govern 
all  primitive  people,  and  they  are  neither 
benefited  nor  made  happy  by  being  crowded 
into  a path  of  progress  opened  for  them  by 
the  too  eager  white  man,  who  demands  that 
they  assimilate  at  once  the  civilization  which 
his  own  race  has  achieved  only  after  thou- 
sands of  years  of  progressive  culture.  Indian 
colleges  and  Indian  missions  may  aid  in  a 
limited  way  to  develop  a primitive  race,  but 


A GENIAL  BEGGAR  OF  COCHABAMBA. 


QUICHUA  INDIAN  OF  THE  VALLEY  BETWEEN  COCHABAMBA 
AND  SUCRE. 

important  results  are  not  achieved  within  a 
few  short  generations.  Experiments  in  the 
Indian  school  established  by  the  United  States 
government  at  Carlisle,  Pennsylvania,  prove 
this  to  be  true  of  the  North  American  Indian, 
as  it  is  of  his  primitive  brother  in  South 
America.  Whether  the  Aymara  race  has 
passed  its  zenith  in  culture  and  is  now  at  a 
period  corresponding  to  “ second  childhood,” 
or  whether  it  is  still  in  the  dawn  of  develop- 
ment, the  actual  condition  is  that  of  a de- 
pendent people,  as  regards  intellectual  and 
moral  responsibility. 

The  foreigner,  upon  arriving  in  Bolivia, 
is  immediately  interested  in  the  picturesque 
spectacle  presented  by  the  Inolian  of  the  Titi- 
caca plateau.  His  poncho  and  cap  are  woven 
of  the  most  gorgeous  colors,  and  the  brighter 


444 


BOLIVIA 


their  reds,  greens,  and  yellows,  the  better  the  wearer  is  pleased.  The  Aymaras  make  their 
own  dyes,  which  are  entirely  of  vegetable  composition,  and  it  is  remarkable  to  what  an 
extent  they  have  developed  their  knowledge  of  the  many  herbs  which  are  useful  for  this 
purpose.  The  art  of  weaving  all  kinds  of  blankets  and  ponchos  is  known  to  both  the 
Aymara  and  Quichua  tribes,  who  blend  the  colors  in  a great  many  combinations,  and  yet 
use  no  other  loom  than  that  which  they  make  by  driving  four  stakes  in  the  ground,  or  by 
means  of  an  apparatus  of  clumsy  and  primitive  manufacture,  which  was  introduced  by  the 

Spaniards  at  the  time  of  the  conquest. 
They  spin  the  wool  of  the  llama,  the 
alpaca,  and  the  vicuna,  and  some  of 
the  ponchos  which  they  make  are 
of  exquisite  workmanship,  woven  of 
vicuna  and  silk.  In  the  province 
of  Pacajes  especially  the  Indians  make 
excellent  cloth,  and  here  they  weave 
the  hayeta,  a black  and  white  mixture 
of  which  they  make  their  own  clothes, 
the  men  wearing  over  this  sombre 
color  the  picturesque  poncho,  while 
the  women  appear  in  darker  wraps, 
adorned  with  brightly  woven  borders. 

The  Quichua  Indians  of  Bolivia, 
sometimes  called  the  Charcas,  are 
easily  distinguished  from  the  Aymaras 
in  general  appearance  and  character. 
Their  features  are  less  rugged  and  they 
are  gentler  in  disposition.  They  are 
more  submissive  than  the  Aymaras, 
and  have  a sunnier  temperament,  the 
reflection  of  milder  skies.  In  Potosi 
they  dress  to-day  as  they  did  in  the 
INDIANS  IN  FIESTA  AT  TRINIDAD.  THE  BENI.  days  of  PizaiTo,  aiid  the  men  still  wear 

the  casques  introduced  by  the  con- 
querors in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  women  wear  high-heeled  wooden  shoes,  or  sandals, 
which  they  fasten  by  straps  drawn  between  the  toes  and  buckled  with  large  silver  buckles 
made  in  the  design  of  the  coat  of  arms  of  Charles  V.  Their  ornaments,  called  iopos,  are  of 
silver,  some  of  them  in  the  design  of  the  double-headed  eagle,  while  others  are  great  disks, 
hammered  and  cut  out  in  many  curious  figures.  The  spoon  is  a favorite  form  for  a topo, 
which  serves  the  double  purpose  of  ornament  and  shawl  pin,  and  may  also  be  used  in  taking 
food.  It  is  customary  to  have  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  carved  in  some  design. 


THE  PRIMIT/l/E  INHABITANTS  OE  BOLIVIA 


44S 


CHOLA  OF  POTOSi,  IN  COSTUME  OF  FIESTA. 


ring,  and  an  entire  set  of  furniture 
may  be  put  into  a liqueur  glass.  The 
Indians  of  Sucre  and  Potosi  are  very 
expert  in  miniature  work.  The  tiny 
dolls,  which  are  much  appreciated  by 
travellers  who  visit  Sucre,  are  no  larger 
than  a mosquito,  yet  when  examined 
under  a magnifying  glass  they  are 
seen  to  be  perfectly  made  and  dressed 
in  the  latest  fashion.  The  miniature 
souvenirs  most  sought  after  by  vis- 
itors to  Potosi  are  the  tiny  silver  tea 
and  coffee  sets,  which  are  marvels  of 
workmanship. 

The  primitive  races  of  Bolivia 
show  a particular  aptitude  for  certain 
industries.  Not  only  are  the  Aymaras 
and  the  Quichuas  skilled  in  weaving 
and  in  making  pottery,  but  the  Mojos 


The  fiestas  of  the  Aymaras  and  the  Quichuas 
vary  little,  to  all  appearance,  both  being  marked  by 
religious  observances  of  more  or  less  recognizable 
solemnity,  and  both  invariably  terminate  in  a grand 
revel.  There  are  special  feasts  in  different  localities 
which  are  not  held  in  any  other,  such  as  the  anni- 
versary of  the  alacitas,  when  miniature  figures  of 
every  description  are  sold  at  the  place  of  celebration. 
It  is  remarkable  to  what  perfection  the  art  of  making 
these  objects  has  been  developed,  some  of  the  tiny 
dishes,  furniture,  and  other  articles  being  of  infini- 
tesimal size,  yet  without  a flaw.  A tray,  containing 
bottle,  tumbler,  and  wineglass,  all  of  wood,  made 
entirely  by  hand,  may  be  passed  through  a finger 


CHOROTIS,  INDIANS  OF  THE  CHACO. 


446 


BOLiyiA 


CHOLA  OF  THE  BOLIVIAN  PLATEAU. 


statistics  collected  by  the  Oficina  Nacional 
de  Immigmcion,  Estadistica  y Propaganda 
Geografica,  the  gradual  disappearance  of 
the  primitive  races  has  been  noted  for  a 
considerable  length  of  time.  Since  1878 
the  Indians  have  died  at  an  increasing  rate 
from  plague  and  alcoholism,  the  number  of 
births  by  no  means  covering  the  mortality. 
At  present  they  are  about  the  same  in 
number  as  they  were  half  a century  ago, 
while  the  white  race  and  the  mcsiiyos  have 
notably  increased.  It  appears  to  be  uni- 
versally the  case  that  a primitive  people 
gradually  vanishes  when  surrounded  by 
conditions  of  advanced  civilization.  The 
Indian  is  not  adaptive,  and  seems  to  be  ill 
fitted  for  rapid  progress.  In  Bolivia,  as  in 


and  the  Chiquitos  have  shown  themselves 
competent  workmen  in  various  primitive 
manufactures.  They  weave  cotton  cloth, 
sheets,  towels,  hammocks,  and  other  arti- 
cles, which  are  so  durable  that  they  last  an 
incredible  length  of  time.  While  these  simple 
children  of  Nature  have  not  been  stimulated 
to  remarkable  progress,  they  have  established 
in  the  country  many  native  industries  of 
importance  and  value. 

Of  the  total  Indian  population  of  Bolivia, 
which  is  estimated  at  nine  hundred  thousand, 
about  eight  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  are 
subject  to  the  laws  of  the  country,  the  remain- 
ing fifty  thousand,  who  inhabit  the  remote 
forests  of  the  extreme  north  and  a part  of 
the  Chaco,  being  uncivilized.  According  to 


THE  MODE  OF  CARRYING  THE  BABY. 


THE  PRIMITIHE  INHABITANTS  OF  BOLIHIA 


447 


A CHOLA  BELLE  OF  POTOSf,  IN  VELVET,  LACE, 
AND  JEWELS. 


forests,  and  have  accomplished  a great 
deal  in  the  work  of  civilizing  the 
Indians.  The  missionary  work  of 
Bishop  Armentia  was  devoted  chiefly 
to  the  civilization  of  the  North  Andean 
tribes  of  the  Madre  de  Dios  region,  the 
territory  of  the  Indians  popularly  called 
Chunchos,  though  known  under  the 
names  of  Tacanas,  Guarayos,  Araonas, 
Cavinas,  Mosetenes,  and  others.  The 
mission  of  Covendo,  in  the  country 
of  the  Mosetenes,  has  been  the  centre 
of  widespread  efforts  in  behalf  of  the 
natives,  and  other  settlements  of  simi- 
lar character  have  been  established  in 
various  localities.  Dr.  Armentia  says 
the  chief  of  the  Araona  tribes  are  not 
elected,  but  chosen  according  to  the 
number  of  their  sons  and  relatives, 


other  countries,  all  attempts  to  induce  him  to 
throw  aside  the  antiquated  implements  of 
toil  used  by  his  ancestors  have  proved  futile, 
and  it  would  be  ludicrous,  if  it  were  not 
pathetic,  to  see  the  laborious  methods  of 
tilling  the  soil  which  the  Indian  follows. 
Neither  by  threats  nor  by  promises  can  he 
be  led  to  make  his  task  easier  by  using 
modern  tools. 

On  the  northern  frontier  and  in  the 
southern  Chaco  the  uncivilized  tribes  have 
been  visited  from  time  to  time  by  the  Cath- 
olic missionaries,  and  in  all  the  frontier  prov- 
inces missions  have  been  established  for  the 
civilization  and  Christian  teaching  of  these 
tribes.  Many  faithful  teachers  have  spent 
the  greater  part  of  their  lives  in  these  remote 


THE  AYMARa'  INDIANS  OF  THE  TITICACA  PLATEAU. 


448 


BOLIVIA 


the  Indian  without  family  being  made  the  slave  of  his  chief.  It  seems  base  ingratitude 
that  the  Indian  who  has  been  forced  to  deny  himself  a wife  because  of  the  polygamous 

proclivities  of  his  chief  should  have 
insult  added  to  injury  by  being  made 
the  humblest  servant  of  his  lucky  rival 
on  that  very  account.  It  is  the  irony 
of  fate.  The  Araonas  are  excellent 
hunters,  and  their  method  of  catching 
the  tapir  especially  is  unique.  This 
animal  suffers  greatly  from  the  attacks 
of  garrapatas,  or  ticks,  and  its  mode  of 
getting  rid  of  the  pest  is  by  attracting 
the  cliuvi,  a bird  of  the  eagle  species, 
which  is  very  fond  of  the  garmpata  as 
a food.  The  tapir  makes  a hissing 
sound  very  like  the  whistling  note 
of  the  cluivi,  and  when  the  latter 
whistles,  the  tapir  responds  and  runs 
in  the  direction  from  which  the  sound 
proceeds,  eager  to  have  the  cliuvi  rid 
it  of  the  garrapatas;  the  Indian  has 
learned  to  imitate  the  cliuvi  and  thus 
he  secures  his  game. 

The  Indians  of  the  Chaco,  the 
Chiriguanos,  Tobas,  Chorotis,  Tapietes, 
and  others,  differ  greatly  in  character 
and  customs  from  the  North  Andean 
tribes.  The  Chiriguanos,  who  have  lived  for  centuries  in  the  vicinity  of  civilized  commu- 
nities, cannot  be  counted  as  entirely  uncivilized  Indians.  The  Tobas,  though  uncivilized, 
are  more  or  less  influenced  in  their  customs  by  contact  with  civilized  people,  as  they  are 
frequently  employed  on  the  estates  of  Tarija  and  in  Argentina.  The  Chorotis  and  Tapietes 
are  savages.  Colonel  Trigo,  in  his  recent  report  on  the  subject,  says  all  the  savage  tribes  of 
the  Chaco  have  similar  customs  and  modes  of  life,  with  very  slight  differences.  Good 
relations  between  tribes  are  maintained  with  astute  diplomacy.  Any  offence  against  the 
rights  of  the  tribe  is  punished  by  war.  The  law  of  force  is  supreme.  Terror  maintains 
mutual  respect.  Vengeance  is  a sacred  dogma.  The  government  is  paternal.  These  Indians 
are  fond  of  adornment,  and  paint  and  tattoo  themselves  with  vegetable  dyes.  The  Chorotis 
insert  round  blocks  of  wood  in  the  lobes  of  the  ears,  increasing  the  size  gradually  until 
these  ornaments  are  several  inches  in  diameter.  The  Tapietes  perforate  the  lower  lip  and 
adorn  it  by  inserting  a large  round  block.  Marriages  are  made  by  the  savages  without  other 


GUARAYO  INDIANS. 


THE  PRIMITIVE  INHABITANTS  OF  BOLIVIA 


449 


formality  than  proof  of  mutual  love,  which  is  shown  by  digging  the  fingernails  into  each 
others’  faces,  a ceremony  highly  esteemed.  Wives  mourn  for  their  husbands  by  cutting  off 
their  hair  and  by  weeping  at  a certain  hour  every  day  until  it  grows  out  again.  A widow 
will  not  marry  again  until  her  hair  has  grown  long. 

In  addition  to  the  white  race  and  the  Indians,  Bolivia  has  a third  element  in  its 
population,  the  mesti{o,  or  clwlo,  a mixed  race  derived  from  the  union  of  Spaniard  and 
Indian.  The  cholos  constitute  a people  quite  distinct  from  the  other  two,  though  related  to 
both.  The  origin  of  this  mixed  race  is  explained  by  the  conditions  which  governed 
the  Spanish-American,  in  common  with  the  North  American,  colonies  in  the  early  his- 
tory of  their  settlement.  In  North  America,  women  from  the  mother  country  were 
sent  out  to  the  colonies  to  become  thq.  wives  of  the  settlers,  but  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment did  not  take  this  means  of  peopling  its  American  possessions;  and  many  of  the 
colonists  married  native  Indian  women,  in  frequent  instances  forming  happy  alliances, 
especially  with  the  Aymaras  and  Quichuas,  who  were  advanced  in  primitive  culture. 

The  cholos  of  the  better  class  are 
good  citizens,  excellent  soldiers,  and  pos- 
sess the  quick  intellect  of  the  Spaniard, 
in  combination  with  the  mechanical 
ability  of  the  Indian.  They  are  capa- 
ble of  receiving  the  highest  industrial 
training,  and  their  handiwork  compares 
favorably  with  the  best  European  pro- 
ductions, whenever  they  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  develop  their  skill.  They  are 
light-hearted  and  careless,  very  fond  of 
gayety,  and  never  so  happy  as  when 
celebrating  one  of  their  numerous  fiestas. 

The  women,  called  cliolas,  are  extremely 
vain  and  greatly  devoted  to  the  charms 
of  dress,  their  costumes  being  at  times 
the  lie  plus  ultra  of  adornment.  A clwla 
belle  of  La  Paz  wears  at  least  a dozen 
starched  white  petticoats,  embroidered 
halfway  to  the  waist,  and  over  these  a 
red,  green,  blue,  or  yellow  velvet  skirt 
which  reaches  to  the  calf  of  the  leg,  the 
petticoats  showing  their  beruftled  edges 
beneath.  Two  bright-colored  shawls  are 
worn,  coquettishly  pinned,  one  on  the  right  shoulder  and  the  other  on  the  left;  a Panama 
hat  rather  mars  the  effectiveness  of  the  costume ; but  a particularly  attractive  feature  is  the 


A BRIDAL  COUPLE  OF  THE  COUNTRY  DISTRICT.  NEAR  POTOSl. 


4^0 


BOLIVIA 


dressing  of  the  feet,  which  are  encased  in  pink,  blue,  or  yellow  stockings  and  high  shoes, 
with  French  heels,  the  tops  of  which  are  perforated  in  exquisite  patterns  to  show  the  pretty 
stockings  underneath.  The  clwla  of  each  city  has  distinguishing  characteristics  and  dress, 
though  all  costumes  are  a modified  copy  of  the  one  just  described.  A clwla  is  sometimes  a 
very  fascinating  bit  of  femininity,  and  many  of  them  are  both  pretty  and  quick-witted.  The 
men  are  successful  tradesmen,  and,  altogether,  the  cholo  race  constitutes  an  important 
part  of  the  business  community.  They  have  not  the  Spaniard’s  traditional  aversion  to 
trade,  and,  in  consequence,  they  supply  what  would  otherwise  be  a serious  deficiency  in 
industrial  and  manufacturing  enterprise. 

The  people  of  Bolivia  are  kind  and  hospitable  to  foreigners,  and  have  a pleasant  welcome 
for  all  who  visit  their  country.  It  is  necessary  to  spend  some  time  in  their  midst,  in  order 
to  become  acquainted  with  their  manners  and  customs  and  to  know  their  many  admirable 
qualities. 


ALL  SOULS'  DAY  IN  THE  CEMETERY. 


I 


ftlLPUBUC-^  ^ 


PORMADO  FAR^l  ' EXRL0R/1D0RF.S 
y^JEROS,  ESTUDIAhfTES  cU. 


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